Man after I finish breaking my bank account with my boat project I owe you a dinner or something at the very least. You saved me from a lot of heartache and more money to pay somebody for something I can apparently do. Thank you so much I'll be around and I'll buy some merch or something. My wife will thank you as soon as my parts are in and it's on the water
Recently I fixed a 1982 4HP in a similar way. Result was the same, hard starting and on higher revolution engine stalls ocassionly. Reason for that I figured out, was an air leak between Carb housing and butterfly rod. I fixed it temporaly with 3 layers plumbers teflon tape around the rod. Additionaly I put some silicone beteen housing and rod. Result easy starting and no stalling. Eaven if you reduce from higher Rpm, it stay stabile on lower Rpm and do not die. I am looking for a better solution with O Rings. Sorry for my poor english, but I like the way you explain your wok. best regards from Germany
Hey welcome back.... I couldn't make it without your videos.... I've been working on a pontoon boat for 2 years and it has a 89 Johnson 50 horse 2-stroke on it and now I'm getting ready to fix the trim after just getting all the carburetor spark plugs wires and gas tank cleaned out.
I'm currently restoring a 1966 Johnson 20hp, and I'm glad that they still make parts for these old motors. I don't know why some hate 2 strokes, but I hope to get mine running soon.
Hi. I really like that flusher device! Wondering where to get one as i have a couple of the older motors and thinking thats a nice idea! Thank you. I was watching when you were talking about the flusher and then you mentioned it at the end. Said you put i link in the video. I will have to check it out. Seems like a nice option if i could get one. Thank you again
Brandon, I'm an extreme newbie. I moved from Phoenix, AZ to NW Alabama by a large Lake (reservoir). I bought my first starter boat, an Alumacraft 1232. It has a max up of 8, so I found a young guy who repairs these older motors. It says on the cover that its an Evinrude Seahorses 5.5. But who knows?! The tag says CD 9 S. It could say 19 S. Have to look again. From my limited research, they made these from 56-64. How can I find out? What's your "go-to" sight for parts? A manual? I have lots and lots of questions, but for now, here is where I need to start. I have good mechanical abilities, so I'm not worried about tearing into if need be. Thank you!!!
@@BrandonsGarage I collect engines particularly old engines pre 79 I do it for the love of the engine not investment nor money hopefully my grand-kids will continue it on to make sure they're not lost in time those 5.5 engines have all phosphorus rod ends no no bearings in the engine to break down and become abrasive particles that destroy seals and ring lands in pistons that engine I would call it almost Bullitt proof just as was the 727 auto and b block 440 cubic inch Chrysler
When doing a tear down as you are here. Is there a gasket/seal kit for the assembly say from the power unit down that can be purchased? After watching several of your videos, it seems like there are multiple kits that must be purchased and still there are the fuel pump and water pump assemblies. Or is there a "Master Rebuild Kit" as you might purchase for a Small Block Chevy V8?
Good morning. What was the light when setting the timing? Can you please explain more on that. My buddy helped me with a 1968 6 horse Johnson and i was only able to take it out once so far but picked up a 1957 7 1/2 horse Johnson to match the year of my boat and wanna rebuild this motor when i get time-have some stuff going on. Great video and thank for that! Have a good day
Hey man just had a little question about older video than that you'd see my comment unl ask you look it in on a newer video By any way just wanna know if you still had that little stand up boat not boat and if you have a link to that old footage that you showed in the 1st of the vidoes the video and if you knew what that thing might have been called As far as a name brand on the boat you have and whatever they call it the description of the old 1960s footage Cause I found out that popular mechanic Ted blueprints for that thing And I'm trying to track them down
Are you having any trouble getting parts. I just ordered carbs for my 1989 60hp mariner but it says they are on back order and I won’t receive them till sometime in September. Was wondering if others were having similar issues with parts
I'm in North San Diego (Fallbrook), where are you located (just about) as I may want to pay you a consulting fee to help me (you use your timing tool) with my 1966 5 HP Evinrude?
Interesting. That’s actually Purdy handy. Just keeping a stock of 9.9/15 impellers & covering many years & models of engines. Makes repairs a little easier
Dry crank case. First crank, you spend pulling fuel through the intake and into the crank case. Takes a few more cycles than normal for the vapor to get pulled up into the cylinders and fire off. I usually prime the crank case by dumping a tablespoon of fuel either into the fuel pump's bypass port, or (gently) sneaking some in past a reed leaf if I have the carb off. You'll still need a couple of extra cycles, but it will be much fewer than with a completely dry crank.
Great that it has a horizontal pullstarter, the vertical pullstarters from OMC are an absolute disaster, breaking cords and unwinding the repeater spring.
Brandon looking for a 1998 evinrude 90 horse compatible lower unit, have one available or know of someone? Mine has skag bad issues and gears are hammered just found out for it's first run. Silly thing was when I serviced the lower unit oil looked great and no water intrusion when drained and no metal fragments when i did
My guess would be no fuel until the pump received vacuum to operate ! They are nice little engines but people don’t realize the 6hp and the 5 1/2hp are the same engine and I sell more 6’s then those ! By the way greetings from Sweden , I’ll be here until the 14th and having a blast !
I doubt it since priming the fuel line should have filedl the carb bowl (and glassl filter) with enough fuel to have it run for quite some time regardless of the fuel pump's contribution. Somewhat stuck piston rings (Brandon's hypothesis) seem more plausible to me ... But I've been known to err before.
@@danielrobert7181 in a few cases priming ONLY fills the bowl and still no fire , Brandons a really good mechanic and he's generally right but I've had many act that way and all comes down to vacuum and or fuel issues . Priming still might not get the fuel to the cylinders to fire !
Dang, watching some at 1/2 speed ... you even changed the needle and seat ... I think that is what is wrong on my friends 9.9. Runs great, but when you stop for a bit after it is warm, won't restart easy ... think fuel is flooding the little 2 stroke.
Brandon, great videos.... I can't find the link for the water test plates. Can you send it to me.
Thank you, Mike
ebay.us/h4LBQ3
Thanks for pointing that out.
Man after I finish breaking my bank account with my boat project I owe you a dinner or something at the very least. You saved me from a lot of heartache and more money to pay somebody for something I can apparently do. Thank you so much I'll be around and I'll buy some merch or something. My wife will thank you as soon as my parts are in and it's on the water
Recently I fixed a 1982 4HP in a similar way. Result was the same, hard starting and on higher revolution engine stalls ocassionly. Reason for that I figured out, was an air leak between Carb housing and butterfly rod. I fixed it temporaly with 3 layers plumbers teflon tape around the rod. Additionaly I put some silicone beteen housing and rod. Result easy starting and no stalling. Eaven if you reduce from higher Rpm, it stay stabile on lower Rpm and do not die. I am looking for a better solution with O Rings. Sorry for my poor english, but I like the way you explain your wok. best regards from Germany
Another old outboard back from the dead. Great work!
Hey welcome back.... I couldn't make it without your videos.... I've been working on a pontoon boat for 2 years and it has a 89 Johnson 50 horse 2-stroke on it and now I'm getting ready to fix the trim after just getting all the carburetor spark plugs wires and gas tank cleaned out.
Well good to hear! Hope you get it back on the water soon.
Super tuto 👍👍J'ai pu démonter mon moteur facilement pour faire la révision et ce grâce à vous 👍👍Bravo et merci pour cette vidéo géniale 😊😊👍👍
Your videos are so helpful! I really appreciate what you do, brother! Keep up the great work
I'm currently restoring a 1966 Johnson 20hp, and I'm glad that they still make parts for these old motors. I don't know why some hate 2 strokes, but I hope to get mine running soon.
Why not use a piston stop, for the torque on top nut?
Hi. I really like that flusher device! Wondering where to get one as i have a couple of the older motors and thinking thats a nice idea! Thank you. I was watching when you were talking about the flusher and then you mentioned it at the end. Said you put i link in the video. I will have to check it out. Seems like a nice option if i could get one. Thank you again
Brandon, I'm an extreme newbie. I moved from Phoenix, AZ to NW Alabama by a large Lake (reservoir). I bought my first starter boat, an Alumacraft 1232. It has a max up of 8, so I found a young guy who repairs these older motors. It says on the cover that its an Evinrude Seahorses 5.5. But who knows?! The tag says CD 9 S. It could say 19 S. Have to look again. From my limited research, they made these from 56-64. How can I find out? What's your "go-to" sight for parts? A manual? I have lots and lots of questions, but for now, here is where I need to start. I have good mechanical abilities, so I'm not worried about tearing into if need be. Thank you!!!
That engine was maintained somebody Pride and Joy I have an interest in that particular engine
Yeah? Because I sure don't need it.
@@BrandonsGarage I collect engines particularly old engines pre 79 I do it for the love of the engine not investment nor money hopefully my grand-kids will continue it on to make sure they're not lost in time those 5.5 engines have all phosphorus rod ends no no bearings in the engine to break down and become abrasive particles that destroy seals and ring lands in pistons that engine I would call it almost Bullitt proof just as was the 727 auto and b block 440 cubic inch Chrysler
When doing a tear down as you are here. Is there a gasket/seal kit for the assembly say from the power unit down that can be purchased? After watching several of your videos, it seems like there are multiple kits that must be purchased and still there are the fuel pump and water pump assemblies. Or is there a "Master Rebuild Kit" as you might purchase for a Small Block Chevy V8?
Good morning. What was the light when setting the timing? Can you please explain more on that. My buddy helped me with a 1968 6 horse Johnson and i was only able to take it out once so far but picked up a 1957 7 1/2 horse Johnson to match the year of my boat and wanna rebuild this motor when i get time-have some stuff going on. Great video and thank for that! Have a good day
Woohoo the show is on! Get well soon.
That kid is getting big.
Hello sir. Thanks for the great video. How much would you charge to do that build to my engine. I have a very nice and clean example of this very one.
I wish you would’ve added a parts list in the comments or details box
Whats the part number for the timing aligngment tool?
Hey man just had a little question about older video than that you'd see my comment unl ask you look it in on a newer video By any way just wanna know if you still had that little stand up boat not boat and if you have a link to that old footage that you showed in the 1st of the vidoes the video and if you knew what that thing might have been called As far as a name brand on the boat you have and whatever they call it the description of the old 1960s footage Cause I found out that popular mechanic Ted blueprints for that thing And I'm trying to track them down
Where did you buy that engine ID like to know where you purchased
Are you having any trouble getting parts. I just ordered carbs for my 1989 60hp mariner but it says they are on back order and I won’t receive them till sometime in September. Was wondering if others were having similar issues with parts
I'm in North San Diego (Fallbrook), where are you located (just about) as I may want to pay you a consulting fee to help me (you use your timing tool) with my 1966 5 HP Evinrude?
Near Laughlin.
You'll probably be better off buying one unless you're coming out this way.
I have two of these, a 1959 and a 1960.
Why is oil fuel mix so high on the older ones? Carb seems to get gooey easier than the 50:1...
The impeller you took out appears to be a typical 5.5/6hp impeller. The 1 you installed looked like an impeller for a 9.9/15hp?
Yeah, evinrude redesigned the pump at some point.
Interesting. That’s actually Purdy handy. Just keeping a stock of 9.9/15 impellers & covering many years & models of engines. Makes repairs a little easier
Great vid man……..parts are getting hard to find lately………and expensive when you do.
Hi, I have the same 5.5hp 1960s outboard engine. Do they still sell piston/rings for the model. Where can I order?
Probably best would be marineengine.com or ebay
Dry crank case. First crank, you spend pulling fuel through the intake and into the crank case. Takes a few more cycles than normal for the vapor to get pulled up into the cylinders and fire off.
I usually prime the crank case by dumping a tablespoon of fuel either into the fuel pump's bypass port, or (gently) sneaking some in past a reed leaf if I have the carb off. You'll still need a couple of extra cycles, but it will be much fewer than with a completely dry crank.
make a great kicker motor for trolling along , wonder if the rings had to expand a little with heat to loosen. but excellent video
Where are you located and do you take on projects?
Great that it has a horizontal pullstarter, the vertical pullstarters from OMC are an absolute disaster, breaking cords and unwinding the repeater spring.
How did you get the old brass seal out of the gear head? I really need the know how on that please
You're talking about the prop shaft seal?
Brandon looking for a 1998 evinrude 90 horse compatible lower unit, have one available or know of someone? Mine has skag bad issues and gears are hammered just found out for it's first run. Silly thing was when I serviced the lower unit oil looked great and no water intrusion when drained and no metal fragments when i did
Hi.
Can you enter which spark plug is for this engine.
t
thank you.
My guess would be no fuel until the pump received vacuum to operate ! They are nice little engines but people don’t realize the 6hp and the 5 1/2hp are the same engine and I sell more 6’s then those ! By the way greetings from Sweden , I’ll be here until the 14th and having a blast !
I doubt it since priming the fuel line should have filedl the carb bowl (and glassl filter) with enough fuel to have it run for quite some time regardless of the fuel pump's contribution. Somewhat stuck piston rings (Brandon's hypothesis) seem more plausible to me ... But I've been known to err before.
@@danielrobert7181 in a few cases priming ONLY fills the bowl and still no fire , Brandons a really good mechanic and he's generally right but I've had many act that way and all comes down to vacuum and or fuel issues . Priming still might not get the fuel to the cylinders to fire !
@@davekimbler2308 So true ! I've often indeed traced starting or smooth running issues down to bad upper and/or lower powerhead seals. Regards !
Thank you. Gained a follower
Dang, watching some at 1/2 speed ... you even changed the needle and seat ... I think that is what is wrong on my friends 9.9. Runs great, but when you stop for a bit after it is warm, won't restart easy ... think fuel is flooding the little 2 stroke.
Little kids are fun.
What was the idle settings
They certainly didn't make serving the lower unit very easy.
So to change the water pump impella you have to take off the power head. What a bad design by Johnson.
Yeah, maybe - except that lower crankshaft seal is important, it forces the servicer to change the o-ring and gasket.