Great video. Coat the inside of the SP boot with dielectric compound and the boot will go on much easier. And, for safety, ALWAYS but the negative battery cable on after the positive cable. Reason is that if the negative is attached and your wrench hits metal while attaching the positive, you will get a spark. If the negative is not attached, no spark!
I actually did coat the boot with a bit of that... I just didn't show it or advise it because I didn't know if it would affect the rubber on the boot over time. I took the chance because I was having trouble making sure the boots were properly seated on the plugs. Good advice on the battery connection.
I was like, what did he say negative first lol. But over all good video. I just got my 2022 and im up to 60k already. Really enjoying it. So i want to change the spark plugs this weekend. If you can recommend exact tools. That would be great
Great video. Looking at other sparkplug videos, you seemed to show the details better with the few seconds where the battery wire batch fell and blocked the view. LoL One thing and only one. According to NGK, all silvery looking threads are not supposed to have any additional lube put on them.
Just a heads up here... Tighten the spark plug finger-tight until the gasket reaches the cylinder head, then tighten about ½ - ⅔ turn more with a spark plug wrench. (Taper seat you go about 1/16 turn more... These are way to tight.
Just finished mine, only had to remove battery and move the wiring no airbox removal. Started with driver side rear as it would be the worst one. The large hands didn't get in the way tho, worth it to DiY.
Thank you for making this video. I had struggled with the drivers side rear plug and was considering going to a garage to have it done. Hundreds of dollars to change spark plugs mean either a design flaw or a rip-off and I wish Subaru had come up with a provision to get to these plugs through the wheel well if not from below. I got it changed this morning and it runs great! There’s very little room but with a selection of wobble extensions like you have and universal joint extensions along with some patience it can be done by someone with mechanical aptitude and adequate stubbornness…! Thanks again!
Thank you for doing this, I may or may not have been putting this off because I couldn't find a good way to do this. I refuse to pay the dealer $450 to change my plugs.
Most excellent video. Thanks! Unfortunately, I won't have the patience or small nimble hands required to do this for my sister. Now I remember why my first Subaru (89 XT) was my last Subaru. This is a ten minute job on any Honda. I could do all 16 plugs on my Hemi in as much time with far less aggravation and be good for 100k miles.
Thanks for this excellent vid. I have this engine in my '24 OB Wilderness. I think there may be slightly less room if that's possible. But you've shown the way!
I was able to do passenger side without removing airbox. I removed the skid plates underside in case I dropped something. Was hoping to be able to do plugs from underneath but no way. Driver side front plug wasn't to bad. I had to remove wiring from #4 coil, not easy. Than removing and replacing plug is very slow due to no space.
I believe there is a service letter re: NGK plugs to not lube threads because they're pre treated and extra lube might cause over torque, but you didn't use a torque wrench anyway. Also, graphite lube might foul plugs if close to end threads.
I was concerned a bit about it so I used very little and didn't put it close to the tip for that very reason. Also I didn't see any type of thread lube on the plugs from the factory and I really just wanted the plugs to go in with ease.. then come out with ease in another 60k miles
Wish this worked for a 2020 Forester...that driver side rear doesn't have enough slack in the harness to pull the boot out, and trying to disconnect that coil from the harness has me defeated, at the moment. 3 out of 4 done but I can feel that the engine isn't enjoying the lopsided ignition.
Good video. Wanted to see how tight it was on this 2.4L compared to my old 2.0L. Only thing is, do NOT put anti-seize on your spark plugs. NGK says on the box not to as they put their own anti-seize on the plugs already.
Fantastic video. Going to tackle this over christmas. Also if you havent yet, i highly recommend the cobb accessport tune for these. They clean up the terrible cvt surges and put the power down much more linear
Did this today following this video and it took 3 hours. Did the right side first to get the hardest out of the way and the left side only took 40 mins. Thank you so much
@@anthonyvaroskovic2992 I actually started on the easy side for a bit of a warm-up before I tackled the tough side... not sure if that was the best way to go but it made sense at the time... glad this video helped out... can you give me a little more info. on the Cobb accessport?
@@sunshinetv2419 so the accessport plugs directly into the OBD2 port and flashes the ECU of the car. It remaps the throttle and smooths out fuel and air mapping making the car feel completely different. It literally made my ascent a different car once I flashed it
Great video! The only thing I would have done differently is NOT use any anti-seize on the spark plugs. This could cause over tightening/torqueing of the plugs. However, great info on the tools needed as well, I'll be doing this soon on my 2020 OB XT.
The main reason NGK does not recommend using anti-seize is possibility of over-tighten the spark plug. However they do recommend using anti-seize in case of re-installation of old sparkplug when zinc coating is gone. Internet suggests adjusting torque specs down by around 30% when using anti-seize. Or as NGK instructions suggest just tighten the spark plug 1/2 to 2/3 turn after the gasket touches the cylinder head.
Same on the '19, I'm assuming? Also I've heard that there needs to be constant battery connection for reasons which I don't recall. You didn't seem to have any issues tho, huh?
It’s probably very similar… enough that if you’re mechanically inclined you can figure out the rest… I didn’t have any trouble with disconnecting the battery
Wouldn't do any harm but would not do any good neither. They are recommended to be replaced because they wear out. However I don't know why Subaru recommends replacing every 60K miles mine looked fine after 100K
I don't know... I'm not a mechanic... if your engine compartment looks similar than maybe... if you are a bit mechanically inclined you should be able to figure your way through it.
Not sure, I’m not a mechanic. It should be similar… all Subarus use the same boxer style engine so it should be relatively the same except for stuff you’d need to pull out of the way to access the plugs Perhaps another viewer can comment and confirm
It was very similar on my 2017 Outback with the 2.5 L engine. Most newer Subies are like this I believe (even the brake lines on the left-side subframe).
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. Coat the inside of the SP boot with dielectric compound and the boot will go on much easier. And, for safety, ALWAYS but the negative battery cable on after the positive cable. Reason is that if the negative is attached and your wrench hits metal while attaching the positive, you will get a spark. If the negative is not attached, no spark!
I actually did coat the boot with a bit of that... I just didn't show it or advise it because I didn't know if it would affect the rubber on the boot over time. I took the chance because I was having trouble making sure the boots were properly seated on the plugs. Good advice on the battery connection.
I was like, what did he say negative first lol. But over all good video. I just got my 2022 and im up to 60k already. Really enjoying it. So i want to change the spark plugs this weekend. If you can recommend exact tools. That would be great
Great video. Looking at other sparkplug videos, you seemed to show the details better with the few seconds where the battery wire batch fell and blocked the view. LoL
One thing and only one. According to NGK, all silvery looking threads are not supposed to have any additional lube put on them.
Just a heads up here... Tighten the spark plug finger-tight until the gasket reaches the cylinder head, then tighten about ½ - ⅔ turn more with a spark plug wrench. (Taper seat you go about 1/16 turn more... These are way to tight.
Just finished mine, only had to remove battery and move the wiring no airbox removal. Started with driver side rear as it would be the worst one. The large hands didn't get in the way tho, worth it to DiY.
Thank you for making this video. I had struggled with the drivers side rear plug and was considering going to a garage to have it done. Hundreds of dollars to change spark plugs mean either a design flaw or a rip-off and I wish Subaru had come up with a provision to get to these plugs through the wheel well if not from below.
I got it changed this morning and it runs great! There’s very little room but with a selection of wobble extensions like you have and universal joint extensions along with some patience it can be done by someone with mechanical aptitude and adequate stubbornness…!
Thanks again!
I have fat electrician hands and have been dreading changing the plugs on my ascent. Thanks for showing the steps involved!
just checked my outback 23 xt and i can confirm all the steps he showed are applicable. saved video for future reference. thx
Thank you for doing this, I may or may not have been putting this off because I couldn't find a good way to do this. I refuse to pay the dealer $450 to change my plugs.
Dealer here in San Antonio is charging $900.
Good lord!@@felixmedrano8208
You people need to call customer service at Subaru as the book time is 1.8 hours. Thats not 450 to 900 dollars.
Most excellent video. Thanks!
Unfortunately, I won't have the patience or small nimble hands required to do this for my sister.
Now I remember why my first Subaru (89 XT) was my last Subaru. This is a ten minute job on any Honda. I could do all 16 plugs on my Hemi in as much time with far less aggravation and be good for 100k miles.
Thanks for this excellent vid. I have this engine in my '24 OB Wilderness. I think there may be slightly less room if that's possible. But you've shown the way!
I watched this to completion. Very good video and If I was 20 years younger I think I’d give it a try. Thanks.
Awesome job. I appreciated the explanation on everything and the tools you used. Will save me a lot of guessing.
NGK confirmed do not use anti-seize on the threads. They are specially coated.
What he said. Don't lube the NGK plugs and take negative cable (not red) first off the battery. 👍🏻
I was able to do passenger side without removing airbox. I removed the skid plates underside in case I dropped something. Was hoping to be able to do plugs from underneath but no way. Driver side front plug wasn't to bad. I had to remove wiring from #4 coil, not easy. Than removing and replacing plug is very slow due to no space.
I believe there is a service letter re: NGK plugs to not lube threads because they're pre treated and extra lube might cause over torque, but you didn't use a torque wrench anyway. Also, graphite lube might foul plugs if close to end threads.
I was concerned a bit about it so I used very little and didn't put it close to the tip for that very reason. Also I didn't see any type of thread lube on the plugs from the factory and I really just wanted the plugs to go in with ease.. then come out with ease in another 60k miles
Wish this worked for a 2020 Forester...that driver side rear doesn't have enough slack in the harness to pull the boot out, and trying to disconnect that coil from the harness has me defeated, at the moment. 3 out of 4 done but I can feel that the engine isn't enjoying the lopsided ignition.
Nice video. My daughter just got a quote of $572 for this while some warranty work was being done. Crazy.
Getting my spark plugs in at orielys tomorrow. Cant wait to do this on my 2021 60k outback xt
Good video. Wanted to see how tight it was on this 2.4L compared to my old 2.0L. Only thing is, do NOT put anti-seize on your spark plugs. NGK says on the box not to as they put their own anti-seize on the plugs already.
Fantastic video. Going to tackle this over christmas. Also if you havent yet, i highly recommend the cobb accessport tune for these. They clean up the terrible cvt surges and put the power down much more linear
Did this today following this video and it took 3 hours. Did the right side first to get the hardest out of the way and the left side only took 40 mins. Thank you so much
@@anthonyvaroskovic2992 I actually started on the easy side for a bit of a warm-up before I tackled the tough side... not sure if that was the best way to go but it made sense at the time... glad this video helped out... can you give me a little more info. on the Cobb accessport?
@@sunshinetv2419 so the accessport plugs directly into the OBD2 port and flashes the ECU of the car. It remaps the throttle and smooths out fuel and air mapping making the car feel completely different. It literally made my ascent a different car once I flashed it
Great video!
The only thing I would have done differently is NOT use any anti-seize on the spark plugs. This could cause over tightening/torqueing of the plugs.
However, great info on the tools needed as well, I'll be doing this soon on my 2020 OB XT.
I do recall that NGK states you should NOT use anti-seize for the NGK spark plugs due to zinc coating, technician from Subaru says the same
The main reason NGK does not recommend using anti-seize is possibility of over-tighten the spark plug. However they do recommend using anti-seize in case of re-installation of old sparkplug when zinc coating is gone. Internet suggests adjusting torque specs down by around 30% when using anti-seize. Or as NGK instructions suggest just tighten the spark plug 1/2 to 2/3 turn after the gasket touches the cylinder head.
Good Job and well Detailed removing this difficult task.
Yeah, when i got the quote I said nope, ill DiY all of it
Not checking gap or did I miss that step
I confirm all gaps
After putting in your Spark plugs did your motor shake.
Did it get better? That sounds like a misfire. Maybe a boot wasn't on all the way?
Well done, dude! Looks like it was a challenge to reach everything...
Great video brother I’m doing mine this week.
Same on the '19, I'm assuming? Also I've heard that there needs to be constant battery connection for reasons which I don't recall. You didn't seem to have any issues tho, huh?
It’s probably very similar… enough that if you’re mechanically inclined you can figure out the rest… I didn’t have any trouble with disconnecting the battery
Thanks you for doing this! It's very nice of you! Good video!
I've always been told to disconnect the battery before doing these types of jobs. Is this correct?
Maybe a silly question, but what harm would a copper or nylon brush do to clean and reuse the old plug?
Wouldn't do any harm but would not do any good neither. They are recommended to be replaced because they wear out. However I don't know why Subaru recommends replacing every 60K miles mine looked fine after 100K
Would the job be easier if it’s done with tires off and go through the vender?
No, everything is accessible from the top. I just followed this video to the t and I finished in 3 hours
@@anthonyvaroskovic2992did you do something to calibrate plug gap or just plug and play?
Thanks
@@naanthebhan the plugs I bought were pre gapped, but I would recommend checking the gap with a tool you can buy at autozone
Bruh! Thanks. Got quote 599$ plus tax
Same. $600 is robbery.
Me too. 600$
@@migueralliart You should change the CVTF too, it is not that hard.
Just a critical warning for newcomers, DO NOT REMOVE THE RED TERMINAL FIRST (like in this video)
Thanks, I was like "what?!!' Luckily the positive did not touch the chasis and give his ECU a stroke.
Is the procedure the same with the forester?
I don't know... I'm not a mechanic... if your engine compartment looks similar than maybe... if you are a bit mechanically inclined you should be able to figure your way through it.
@@sunshinetv2419 okay thanks!
Similar for outback xt?
Not sure, I’m not a mechanic. It should be similar… all Subarus use the same boxer style engine so it should be relatively the same except for stuff you’d need to pull out of the way to access the plugs
Perhaps another viewer can comment and confirm
It was very similar on my 2017 Outback with the 2.5 L engine. Most newer Subies are like this I believe (even the brake lines on the left-side subframe).
😊
These Subaru Boxer engines are terrible for changing out spark plugs. I'm not buying a Subaru again. Own a Forester.
I have an 18 Crosstrek and face the same problem. Boxer engines are a pain for spark plugs!
Take off your watch bro
At least he is not playing those brain eating god awful background music 👍🏻
Spark plug replacement should never be this hard. Sorry...no Subarus for me.
Most cars are this hard, try v6 front wheel drives