Something else I recommend, on my 96 legacy outback 2.5 ej, I had all my gaskets, including the rear main seal, replaced on my car along with the pcv valve. However after a month, all my gaskets blew out and I had oil leaks once again. It wasn't until I swapped out the 2.5 with a 2.2 that I discovered the problem. When I removed the PCV hose off the main port on the block, I discovered that it was completely sealed off with a cake of carbon deposits. This clog is why I blew out all my seals again even after I replaced the PCV valve. I recommend checking this port on the block maybe every 100,000 miles or on your high mileage engines to prevent this from occurring.
this is exactly why I am so interested in finding out installing a catch can on my 2015 @.5 NA Forrester. filtering these emissions just makes sense to me. Do you have any thoughts on this?
@@richardwilson5709 Even if there was an oil catch can on my car at the time, it would not matter because the carbon clog was on the block port before reaching the first hose in the pcv system.
@@GeoForge i dont think hes suggesting this for ur car, or as an idea that could of prevented a secondary leak. I think he is solely thinking maybe if this had been done earlier before it was caked, i.e. his own vehicle, would that have be a good idea? Also the fact that someone removed ur emgine and wasn't smart enough to look at ur okd pcv valve n realize that thing had to be caked up good, n not think, hey maybe i should look inside of this as well? Is sickening to me. That car would of been lit on fire in their parking lot if that had happened to me.
@@GeoForge on side after i got super pissed for no reason (it just aggravates me to no end when someone gets ripped off, u weren't legit ripped off but u know what i mean). Do u like the 2.2? N how do u think (i have a 2010 outback) a new 2.4 t would be? Im thinking about if i ever run into severe issues with my car pulling a good engine n hopefully trans out of newer low mileage wrecked car n going that route. What were u able to source a 2.2 for?
I can’t thank you enough for how much money you have saved me after my valve cover gaskets blew I promised myself I would know everything there is to know about this car and do any repair by myself. Still learning but I am really proud of what I have done from the knowledge you have given me ❤️💎🙏🏽🚗
We live in a world where people say cars only need oil changes and regular gas, everything else is a gimmick...If you tell them why its important they laugh at you...Those are the same people that buy cars every 3-5 years... LOL
@@MrSubaru1387 I have a question that I hope you can answer please. I have a 2009 h4 Subaru legacy sport that I recently changed the PCV valve on but when I did I accidently broke the thing that the valve threads into loose out of the engine itself and I don't know what it's called so I can't replace it. I was wondering if you knew what it is
when you pick up the PCV valve don't forget to get a new hose also. Mine was super brittle and it cracked when I put the new PCV in, so I had to drive for a few days with a check engine light because of the broken hose until I got a new one
Super clear & helpful MrSubaru1387 One thing to add. PCV vacuum hoses (where they sit on the PCV valve) become rock hard with age & heat. It's easy to split the hose getting it off the valve - ask me how. Last month Subaru (Australia) had no new hose parts for a 2013 FB25. My parts dealer spoke of shortages & suggested trying a Specialist Subie wrecker. I put on transmission hose for now.
An oil leak just started maybe a month before I saw this video. It was on driver’s side front on my 2012 Forester. Looked like timing cover. PVC had 120,k miles so I changed it as described. It seems like the leak stopped. I even changed the plywood I park on to confirm. Yeah, it stopped. Maybe coincidence but I’m happy, and very lucky!
Great info! One minor correction; the PCV system actually goes back to the later 1940s. I have a factory installed one in my 1951 International L170. They were sold as an option to keep engines internally cleaner for short haul and delivery trucks. As draft tubes weren't really affective below 35-40 MPH, and lube oil such as it was then, sludge and coatings on engine internals was a big problem. In the late 1950s, a Dutch engineer from CalTech and a new state board for pollution control looked at the existing valve as an idea to keep smog down by at least keeping crankcase fumes out of the atmosphere. Tests showed successful results so it was adopted by law as a 1st step, at least for CA at the time. New subscriber here, got my 1st Subaru, will keep viewing.
Oh I just changed that this year on my EJ20. It’s super easy to change, just takes a little effort to remove the old hose. Mine wasn’t totally bad (I could hear the ball shake) but it’s worth changing anyway since my engine has almost 200k miles now. I also recommend changing all old tubing that you touch on older vehicles because they get hard and crack easily.
I am planning on changing mine as well. As far as getting the right part, since there are so many types of EJ20s,does the PCV valve have to be specific for your specific EJ20? What sort of EJ20 do you have?
I change mine every 25K miles, no questions asked. It is cheap insurance. I replace the hose and/or rubber grommet as soon as it shows any damage. As I change my oil every 5K miles it lines up with my regular maintenance anyway. I hope this helps you with all your cars.
My daughter's 2016 Outback was burning oil and just running terrible, no acceleration, loss of power, etc. Subaru suggested an oil consumption test. I opted to buy a new PCV valve (and hose!) after watching your video and replaced it at 108K miles. We bought the car with 103K miles. The old valve was totally clogged and not working. The car runs beautifully with the new valve. Thank you.
My wife’s 2015 2.5l Outback has been jerking and sputtering slightly under acceleration for awhile now , it’s been using oil as well and occasionally you’d see a puff of smoke when you started it. It was driving me crazy and last night I replaced the PCV and the symptoms went away. Crazy how simple things can be sometimes.
I was going to replace mine, on my 2015 3.6 R Outback at 60k miles, but got sidetracked, and didn't do it until 70k miles. When I replaced it, the old valve was rattling, but I could hear sludge dulling the clicks. Anyway, while replacing the valve, I noticed the vacuum hose looked crushed! Like the vacuum had drawn it in and cause it to become disformed. I went ahead and replaced it, with an OEM hose. The PCV valve was OEM as well, because something this important, deserves a couple extra dollars, for peace of mind. Just a heads up, to those replacing the PCV valve on higher millage engines, make sure to inspect the vacuum hose as well!
Great video. Running an EJ 25D in my VW bus and had a horrible oil issue. Pooling in the intake valves and blowing crazy thick smoke. I realized my valve cover hoses were not to fresh air, and plugged in with the PCV system. I unplugged them, capped the ports and problem solved. I still replaced the PCV anyway, worth the $5. THANK YOU
I thought I understood the PCV system, and it was fun to understand the clever design of that little ball and spring to reduce flow at idle, allow more flow at WOT, and absolutely stop reverse flow. Then I came across newer systems with turbos, vacuum air pumps, and complicated plastic intake housings. Instead of a little device that is replaced for ten dollars, in some vehicles you need to replace much more.
Recently bought a 2011 Forester and it's been idling a bit rough when cold, been watching your videos, PCV was a little sticky cleaned it not much improvement, watched cleaning the throttle body, started undoing the plenum 😶🤨🙄 whoever was working on it before I got the car put the plenum on with only half of the rubber collar under the hose clamp the other half was folded 90° and just pressed against the throttle body, I'm amazed it sealed enough and wasn't tripping any codes, cleaned the TB carefully warmed the folded bit with a heat gun on low got the wrinkles out, runs like it should now. Been wanting a Subaru every since I swapped an EJ22 into my VW Vanagon, engine has over 300k now and still runs great 👍
Thanks!🙌 New to cars and new to Subaru :) Bought an old 08 Subaru Outback having P0712 and C0115 codes and trying to figure out where the hell should i start my diagnostics. Maybe will start with PCV. Your channel is extremely helpful. Thanks so much once again,.
2018 Forester 2.5i 6MT NA with catch can installed from day one. From the first 5,000 miles to every 5,000 miles after, oil change is done, catch can is cleaned. Every 10,000 miles CRC GDI valve cleaner is sprayed.
Don't forget to clean threads and maybe some permatex high temp thread sealant. Haha, a few weeks too late for me after going through sparks, cleaning MAF, EGR, throttle body, found my rough idle culprit. Everybody tells me to sell my 14 Forester (60k, garage kept in FL). Bearings, AC compressor, PCV, now bushings. It's enough I never want another Subaru
@@pprb123 I was trying to find the root of the idling issue. I've had to replace AC compressor, 2 rear bearings, 6 bushings that were completely dry rotted. The car is garage kept. 14-18 Subaru's are crap. A mechanic told me to sell it before 100k as the CVT transmission will be out of warranty.
Just did this on my 2011 2.5i Outback. Design was a little different as it didn’t screw into the block (red topped one). There was a short hose with a metal clip. Clip was easy enough to open with a screwdriver and close with a notched hand wrench. 20 minutes and the job was done. Valve was definitely seized and the inlet line to the throttle body was soaked in oil.
Thanks Mr. Subaru. I recently changed my PCV valve on my Nissan Sentra because someone on TH-cam said it was necessary but I didn't know why. Now I realize how important it is.
Mine was puffing out white smoke upon startup and my regular shop told me it was because it was just an old subaru thing. When I brought it to the dealership for a few other things, they found it was faulty and replaced it free of charge which was really nice. I appreciated that.
EDIT update> After 3 days of PB blaster, I warmed up the engine, and hit the PCV with one more shot of PB, tapped gently on it for 60 seconds, and it finally came out. Small victory for shade tree guy >>Taking a clue from this, I bought the PCV valve & hose, but even with 1/2 breaker bar and *moderate* pressure, I could not get the PCV valve out of the block, sure as hell don't want to break it. Didn't think I should try heat due to vapors. I'm going to PB Blast it for a few days and try again. ANy other methods??? Great video,, thank you Mr Subaru..
As I would accelerate there was a slight shutter thought it was plugs replaced. Thought it was Cv axles didn't replace yet. Saw this video checked mine out cleaned PCV and man the power was restored no more shutter! Definitely forgot about this and thanks for the reminder MrSubaru!
Thank you very much for the explanation and demo. Took me 5 minutes to do the whole job and you saved a bunch of money and reduced waste since part was just dirty inside, while my dealership said it has to be replaced along with the hose.
Honda dealer tech here. I suggest them for these very reasons myself and I often find I'm the only one even bothering to suggest them. I do it every 50k on my personal cars for peace of mind.
I'm guilty of it too, but brake cleaner on bare hands, no bueno 💀 For your "once every 30k mi or so" guy that uses it just to clean the PCV, probably not a big issue, but if you're working on cars all the time, PPE sucks, but it'll keep you alive, or at least reduce your cancer and liver problem chances significantly. As always though, thanks Mr Subaru and team! You're great, and I often use your videos to explain to others (including my kid) how various things on a car work. Even when I know what I'm doing beforehand, I also like to watch a repair before I do it, I often learn a new trick or an easier way. Many thanks!
I would love to see Mr. Subaru build a forged internal EJ, I think it would be cool to hear your opinions on different manufacturers of internals for a short block, as well as long block components. Much like the tool comparison videos. Happy new year, thanks for the content!
Despite what brand of vehicle I own/drive at the time, I replace the PVC valve every 25K miles. No questions asked. It is a maintenance item in my humble opinion.
Replaced the one on our 2015 Crosstrek last week with the OEM part. The vac hose to the manifold was hard and almost brittle down at the valve end. I didn't trust it not to leak after disturbing it. It didn't come off of the valve without a fight. Went and replaced that too for good measure.
Best just to unhook those PCV and CCV’s and run hoses down to the bottom of the engine compartment. The natural positive pressure in the engine will push through the hoses at needed. They don’t run on vacuum. That’s why it’s called “positive” crank case. I’ve unhooked those on every car I bought since 1988 and when I go to tear down the head, valves, and engine parts are just as clean as ever!
Sometimes the shake test won't determine if it's working the right way. The spring can be worn too.yiu can also do the blow test to see if it's doing it's job. In both directions. Even after cleaning if it fails the blow test, it's bad or not operating at the right threshold. Great video
Mine the spring and internal valve/plate was completely missing (it was clean straight through hole) Sadly this was on my WRX after i had owned it for about 3 years and then the mechanic abused it on a test drive there was smoke pouring out of the valve cover leaks onto headers. Luckily was no other major damage to other seals except a short term leak from front of sum near the main
Your videos instill confidence in my car and the repairs/maintenance I do on them. I had hesitation off of idle, so I pulled and cleaned my MAF/PCV/Throttle Body and it was an immediate improvement.
You described all the issues on my old 1996 Mazda MPV, and that PVC was constantly fouled up with oil. I always wondered why they had it as a 10,000 mile interval replace item in the owner manual. I never saw PVC replacement in the 2015 Subaru outback manual, but just checked it's at the 60,000 mile interval replacement. Though some owners say 100,000K and they are still on the original Subaru PVC.
I was told that just because it rattles doesn’t mean it is good. There is another TH-cam video that suggests using a balloon to test. Thanks for the thorough explanation.
Mr Subaru 1387 your tutorials are full of good info that I enjoy watching. My ‘15 Forrester is serviced at an independent service shop that, like you, specializes in Subarus here in north east Ohio. Still I need to know the information that you present that makes me a more informed owner. We baby our Forrester.
93,000 km 2015 Legacy. It's easy to locate - but a long extension and a 19mm deep socket make it easy to get out. Mine felt a little gummy but was pretty good - no corrosion inside at all. A little break cleaner and working should keep 'er going for a good while.
Well this teaches me that it's well worth to think of the PCV valve as regular replace item since the part is inexpensive. According to this vid, it's well worth the cost to pay a professional to replace it at regular intervals of age or mileage. Great info!
My car had a pcv valve recall. Apparently there was cracking. Subaru rebuilt the whole lower half of my engine with new parts. Pretty glad I went with that 10-year warranty plan.
Wish I would have known this 30,000 miles ago before my seals started leaking. I haven’t read anything about preforming this during regular maintenance intervals. Thanks
Exactly. I don't think it's in the maintenance schedule. Mine clogged and blew out crank and cam seals at 90,000 miles. So I had to replace those and basically do the timing belt at the same time, 15,000 miles early. $$$.
Thank you So much I was experiencing excessive consumption of oil with my 2012 Impreza 2.0 only to realize after the valve change that it was the clogged valve causing the problem
Great video... Plan on buying a new hose because mine shattered like hard plastic prying it off the pcv... Mine sounded a little sluggish so I just bought a new one...250, 000 miles at 16 yrs old, its just time....
Good stuff! I just spent over $40k on a brand new Outback Touring XT and I want this overpriced hunk of metal to last a LONG time. It's a turbo too, which adds another level of worry. I only use Motul Eco-Lite oil and will change it every 6000 miles. I'd love to see you delve more into Subaru turbos, with examples.
I drop the valve in a plastic bottle with gasoline, let it soak overnight and shake to bottle in the morning. Or brake cleaner. Cheaper than 20 bucks. Clean it when you change your oil is draining each time and you won't need to replace the metal ones. Keeps you from blowing your seals
Don't know why I haven't subscribed, I've been your channel for 2 years. Subscribed 👍, so if the PCV valve isn't too bad just service/clean and reinstall right! I'm looking into a little more than normal vibration at idle on my 2019 2.5i with 113k miles, plugs were replaced by Subaru at 72k as well. I'm thinking of checking plugs my next oil change and looking into the PCV valve, might replace as I drive the Outback 4 to 600 miles a week, has been super reliable from the 21k miles I got it and have 2 month oil change intervals
So, I took the advice and had this replaced. Just for reference a independent shop in albuquerque charged me $73 for the valve, $41 for the hose, and $144 for R&R. And now they keep finding more leaks, crazy how in 12,000 miles (80k-92k) the 16’ Outback goes from no leaks or oil consumption. To leaks and using oil. I’ve watched most if not all of these Mr Subaru videos and I’m quickly falling out of love with the brand based on my current experience. Good luck
Hi there. Just wanted to share my experience. This little part cost me around 1800 dollars. From 2 mechanics. One day out of nowhere my car sounded like it had a cam. I thought maybe it was the timing jumped or something, I took it to someone and they took the motor apart, replaced the timing belt, and head gaskets, Then I took it to another guy after the problem wasn't solved, he actually broke my intake *Don't ask me how* and the work he did didn't fix it. I finally got fed up with dipsh*t mechanics not doing proper work and solving small problems at a time. SO I did the work and Bam. within an hour I found out my PCV valve was shot and the hose was NOT connected. FUN FUN FUN ON THE BUN! P.S. Do not take your car to the "My boi does it for cheap" "mechanic" types Thanks for the video
Explained everything very well, I learned a ton. My 05 Impreza recently began idling very rough and dying. Mine had no rattle and all gunked up. Idling much better now! Thanks for making these videos!
back in the old days before you were born, and headers were popular on small blocks of every make, we used to vent the crank case vapors into the the header collectors an angle
I rarely hear about replacing the rubber hose along with the pvc valve because that hose deterioration and clogs oil ports Which ruins the engine. I replaced two engines because of this
I have a 2019 Forester, 2.5L engine. There was talk one one of the Subaru forums of the PCV actually failing in place and pieces falling into the engine. Lots of white smoke coming out the tail pipe. The engine had to be taken apart. There was no recall on this in Canada but I bought one anyway, PCV valve #11810AA200, made in Japan, Canadian $33.39 incl tax. Needs 22mm deep socket. My mileage is low, 25,000km. Plan on replacing the PCV in Spring 2023.
This is the very first thing I do as soon as I buy any used vehicles (I'm on my 16th vehicle, never torn any up to date). I always do the pcv valve, change the plugs, change the air filter, and clean the MAF sensor as soon as I drive away with it. I do all of them again every 50k miles. Also do oil change immediately, and I do oil changes every 1,500-2,500 miles at MOST- I don't give a damn what they say about modern oil not needing to be changed until 3k-5k miles... It costs very little and better safe than sorry. Keep it running clean and keep up on maintenance and just about any common car will last forever.
2011 Forester manual says to use red Three Bond, the equivalent of Permatex red thread bond. No way. Sounds like a good way to really cause a problem for future removal. Your high temperature silicone seal is a better recommendation.
The one using grommet is a hell of work trying to remove it...it just stucked on the grommet and have no idea how to pull it off without using heavy tools that will break it...I think the threaded version is better than the grommet type...easy to install and remove
I just changed my pcv hoses and valves on my 2010 WRX. My pcv was stuck closed and it was leaking oil on passenger valve cover. The hoses were hard as a rock too.
While it may seem obvious, i pointed this out to a friend who feels intimidated by cars but is a pc enthusiast that the P of PCV is the same problem of ventilation for a PC case, positive v negative pressure. He was like, Ohhhhhhhhhh
It is amazing how complicated some PCV valves are today. It used to be they were connected to the valve cover through a grommet. You popped it out, gave it a shake, and pushed right back in. I did a PCV valve replacement on a Volkswagen, a few years ago, and it was an all day job. How did they manage to take something so simple and complicate it to hell? Due to that, lug bolts instead of lug nuts, and the German love of torx bolts, I will never purchase a VW, BMW or Mercedes.
If you are "Lucky" the PCV valve hangs open and your engines runs bad because it acts like there is a vacuum leak. It won't blow out gaskets that way. :49 Fixed orifices are common on some engines. Also, the things Germans and Swedes use for this purpose is sometimes different. All that was required back in the 60s was that there was something that redirected the blowby into the intake manifold. How they did it was not important
My 2014 Suby Outback 4 fist boxer has a rough idle and hard to start no codes so I am hoping the PCV valve is the cause, but when I went to replace it the hose is hard as a rock! so I am waiting for the hose to get here first then I can replace it and see if that helps. 160k miles. I already cleaned the MAF airflow sensor and cleaned the throttle valve body
Mr. Subaru, if this is a known issue on horizontal direct injection newer boxer 4 cylinders, why doesn't Subaru add anything to the service manual to check this say every 50-100k miles?
PCV systems were first introduced and used during WW2 by many automobile manufacturers. My WW2 Willy’s Jeep L134 engine has a PCV valve. So it was out way before the 1960s as claimed in the video.
yet the 1987 jeep cherokee didnt have one (?) nor a valve cover gasket. [there was a plug in the valve cover, so easy to put in a universal PCV that should have been there when it was new] I made the gasket and installed the correct tubing & PCV valve and it solved issues my sisters jeep was having. *saw the same on other new cherokees in that time frame - the company saved just a few $ - ugh even my old VW engines had them, but not the 87 jeep
First off, another great video on Subaru’s, really enjoy your content, always informative, Thanks. But I was thinking the same thing about the 60’s comment. My 1953 Ford M38A1 CDN Army Jeep (F134 Hurricane motor) has a PCV as well. Actually the entire engine is a closed system design that was designed to be fully submerged in water. I wouldn’t try that now though on our Jeep, Forester or Outback!!!! Cheers.
Glad I stumbled upon this video I notice that my oil has a gasoline sort of smell to it along with my wrx having a rattle noise where I can hear it when driving 2-3krpm on 1st and 2nd gear. I’ll give this a check for sure.
just checked the wife's car, fb20... recently found oil was quite low. Checked today and oil cap has popped off, gonna get replacement cap and get it checked, UGH!
I received several warning lights on the dash of my 2013 Subaru Outback. I plugged my OBD scanner in and have misfires in cylinder 3. I pulled the plugs, and cylinder 3 and 4 had oil in the spark plug tubes so I installed new gaskets, tube seals and plugs. I also placed one new coil pack on cylinder 3, in the hope the misfire was gone. I also put new oil in at the same time. The engine runs and sounds "ok" BUT at slow speed or stops it will intermittently stall. When I put the scanner back on , I get code P0021(bank 2). At this time, I took it to my local mechanic and he tells me cylinder 3 has low compression, he did not do a leak down test just a compression test. I think it was 80 psi. I have 149K on this engine and he suggested I rip and replace with a low mileage motor. However, I want to determine what the cause is and try to solve it with this motor(if it makes sense). I plan on buying the OTC tool to do the leak down test you show in your other video's but I am wondering if the PCV valve could have been the cause of my original misfires? Also, could the PCV also cause the P0021 code, even though the code is timing related? Any input greatly appreciated.
2016 2.5L PCV Warranty Maintenance Schedule and Safety Inspection Schedule. Neither of these scheduled list any reference the PVC maintenance. When asking Subaru USA about this they said ask your dealer. Rather than getting the dealer's opinion I want the official word from Subaru. Pulling the engine to replace the RTV cam cover seal for $3,500 is a lot of money. What should be the maintenance interval be for the PCV valve?
Basic auto shop should be required to graduate highschool. I can't remember a time when I didn't know what a pcv valve is or a time when I didn't understand how crankcase ventilation worked.
@@doom3380 great advice . I already got the manual. It does cover the PCV valve topic but it wasn’t really clear. I tried google it but no luck. It’ll be great if you can point me to the website or something. Thanks again for any advice.
I wish Subaru mentioned this in the service schedule. Just did mine thanks to this video.
Why would they do that so tie cat can run longer less sales fuck no
In Canada, Subaru's maintenance schedule recommends the PCV valve be inspected (replaced if necessary) every 60,000 km.
Something else I recommend, on my 96 legacy outback 2.5 ej, I had all my gaskets, including the rear main seal, replaced on my car along with the pcv valve. However after a month, all my gaskets blew out and I had oil leaks once again. It wasn't until I swapped out the 2.5 with a 2.2 that I discovered the problem. When I removed the PCV hose off the main port on the block, I discovered that it was completely sealed off with a cake of carbon deposits. This clog is why I blew out all my seals again even after I replaced the PCV valve. I recommend checking this port on the block maybe every 100,000 miles or on your high mileage engines to prevent this from occurring.
this is exactly why I am so interested in finding out installing a catch can on my 2015 @.5 NA Forrester. filtering these emissions just makes sense to me. Do you have any thoughts on this?
@@richardwilson5709 Even if there was an oil catch can on my car at the time, it would not matter because the carbon clog was on the block port before reaching the first hose in the pcv system.
@@GeoForge i dont think hes suggesting this for ur car, or as an idea that could of prevented a secondary leak.
I think he is solely thinking maybe if this had been done earlier before it was caked, i.e. his own vehicle, would that have be a good idea?
Also the fact that someone removed ur emgine and wasn't smart enough to look at ur okd pcv valve n realize that thing had to be caked up good, n not think, hey maybe i should look inside of this as well? Is sickening to me.
That car would of been lit on fire in their parking lot if that had happened to me.
@@GeoForge on side after i got super pissed for no reason (it just aggravates me to no end when someone gets ripped off, u weren't legit ripped off but u know what i mean).
Do u like the 2.2? N how do u think (i have a 2010 outback) a new 2.4 t would be? Im thinking about if i ever run into severe issues with my car pulling a good engine n hopefully trans out of newer low mileage wrecked car n going that route.
What were u able to source a 2.2 for?
@@richardwilson5709 p
I can’t thank you enough for how much money you have saved me after my valve cover gaskets blew I promised myself I would know everything there is to know about this car and do any repair by myself. Still learning but I am really proud of what I have done from the knowledge you have given me ❤️💎🙏🏽🚗
Changed PCV on my 02 H6 Outback today. Misfire and hesitation 99% gone. Thank you for your content!
We live in a world where people say cars only need oil changes and regular gas, everything else is a gimmick...If you tell them why its important they laugh at you...Those are the same people that buy cars every 3-5 years... LOL
Well.. if you can afford it.. why not..🤷🏽♂️
Lifetime cvt fluid has entered the chat.
@@ralkros681 In the world of mechanical/working parts...nothing last forever. lol
@@yashiroku I was adding to the joke 😂
@@ralkros681 this is serious business....Its not a joking matter when a muffler bearing fails cuz you didnt want to change cvt fluid. smh
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I've never seen a video from you that wasn't clear, interesting and , above all, useful. Thank you 😊👍.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. Happy New Year!
By far the best explanation of what it does, the problem it solves, and possible issues. Great stuff.
Thanks! Happy New Year!
@@MrSubaru1387 I have a question that I hope you can answer please. I have a 2009 h4 Subaru legacy sport that I recently changed the PCV valve on but when I did I accidently broke the thing that the valve threads into loose out of the engine itself and I don't know what it's called so I can't replace it. I was wondering if you knew what it is
when you pick up the PCV valve don't forget to get a new hose also. Mine was super brittle and it cracked when I put the new PCV in, so I had to drive for a few days with a check engine light because of the broken hose until I got a new one
Be sure to get a new PCV grommet at the same time, if the car uses one, it will probably fall apart when removed.
@@skylinefever subaru pcv valves go into a threaded port.
Excellent! There are a lot of great mechanics around, but not many who as well can teach and impart knowledge like you can.
Super clear & helpful MrSubaru1387
One thing to add. PCV vacuum hoses (where they sit on the PCV valve) become rock hard with age & heat. It's easy to split the hose getting it off the valve - ask me how. Last month Subaru (Australia) had no new hose parts for a 2013 FB25. My parts dealer spoke of shortages & suggested trying a Specialist Subie wrecker. I put on transmission hose for now.
You have a gift and talent of explaining workings of machinery. Excellent tutorial. Thank you very much.
An oil leak just started maybe a month before I saw this video. It was on driver’s side front on my 2012 Forester. Looked like timing cover. PVC had 120,k miles so I changed it as described.
It seems like the leak stopped. I even changed the plywood I park on to confirm. Yeah, it stopped.
Maybe coincidence but I’m happy, and very lucky!
thats great! its always nice when stuff happens the easy way.
Great info! One minor correction; the PCV system actually goes back to the later 1940s. I have a factory installed one in my 1951 International L170. They were sold as an option to keep engines internally cleaner for short haul and delivery trucks. As draft tubes weren't really affective below 35-40 MPH, and lube oil such as it was then, sludge and coatings on engine internals was a big problem. In the late 1950s, a Dutch engineer from CalTech and a new state board for pollution control looked at the existing valve as an idea to keep smog down by at least keeping crankcase fumes out of the atmosphere. Tests showed successful results so it was adopted by law as a 1st step, at least for CA at the time. New subscriber here, got my 1st Subaru, will keep viewing.
Oh I just changed that this year on my EJ20. It’s super easy to change, just takes a little effort to remove the old hose. Mine wasn’t totally bad (I could hear the ball shake) but it’s worth changing anyway since my engine has almost 200k miles now. I also recommend changing all old tubing that you touch on older vehicles because they get hard and crack easily.
I am planning on changing mine as well. As far as getting the right part, since there are so many types of EJ20s,does the PCV valve have to be specific for your specific EJ20?
What sort of EJ20 do you have?
I change mine every 25K miles, no questions asked. It is cheap insurance. I replace the hose and/or rubber grommet as soon as it shows any damage. As I change my oil every 5K miles it lines up with my regular maintenance anyway. I hope this helps you with all your cars.
My daughter's 2016 Outback was burning oil and just running terrible, no acceleration, loss of power, etc. Subaru suggested an oil consumption test. I opted to buy a new PCV valve (and hose!) after watching your video and replaced it at 108K miles. We bought the car with 103K miles. The old valve was totally clogged and not working. The car runs beautifully with the new valve. Thank you.
My wife’s 2015 2.5l Outback has been jerking and sputtering slightly under acceleration for awhile now , it’s been using oil as well and occasionally you’d see a puff of smoke when you started it. It was driving me crazy and last night I replaced the PCV and the symptoms went away. Crazy how simple things can be sometimes.
I was going to replace mine, on my 2015 3.6 R Outback at 60k miles, but got sidetracked, and didn't do it until 70k miles.
When I replaced it, the old valve was rattling, but I could hear sludge dulling the clicks.
Anyway, while replacing the valve, I noticed the vacuum hose looked crushed!
Like the vacuum had drawn it in and cause it to become disformed.
I went ahead and replaced it, with an OEM hose.
The PCV valve was OEM as well, because something this important, deserves a couple extra dollars, for peace of mind.
Just a heads up, to those replacing the PCV valve on higher millage engines, make sure to inspect the vacuum hose as well!
Great video. Running an EJ 25D in my VW bus and had a horrible oil issue. Pooling in the intake valves and blowing crazy thick smoke. I realized my valve cover hoses were not to fresh air, and plugged in with the PCV system. I unplugged them, capped the ports and problem solved. I still replaced the PCV anyway, worth the $5. THANK YOU
Easy as, just checked mine after owning the car for 17 years and it was like new.
I thought I understood the PCV system, and it was fun to understand the clever design of that little ball and spring to reduce flow at idle, allow more flow at WOT, and absolutely stop reverse flow. Then I came across newer systems with turbos, vacuum air pumps, and complicated plastic intake housings. Instead of a little device that is replaced for ten dollars, in some vehicles you need to replace much more.
Recently bought a 2011 Forester and it's been idling a bit rough when cold, been watching your videos, PCV was a little sticky cleaned it not much improvement, watched cleaning the throttle body, started undoing the plenum 😶🤨🙄 whoever was working on it before I got the car put the plenum on with only half of the rubber collar under the hose clamp the other half was folded 90° and just pressed against the throttle body, I'm amazed it sealed enough and wasn't tripping any codes, cleaned the TB carefully warmed the folded bit with a heat gun on low got the wrinkles out, runs like it should now.
Been wanting a Subaru every since I swapped an EJ22 into my VW Vanagon, engine has over 300k now and still runs great 👍
Thanks!🙌 New to cars and new to Subaru :) Bought an old 08 Subaru Outback having P0712 and C0115 codes and trying to figure out where the hell should i start my diagnostics.
Maybe will start with PCV. Your channel is extremely helpful. Thanks so much once again,.
Sorry for the late reply. Did you figure out the issue, or still need assistance?
@@MrSubaru1387 No worries at all. Unfortunately got into an accident - Insurance totalled the vehicle. Even though i think it was repairable.
2018 Forester 2.5i 6MT NA with catch can installed from day one. From the first 5,000 miles to every 5,000 miles after, oil change is done, catch can is cleaned. Every 10,000 miles CRC GDI valve cleaner is sprayed.
Don't forget to clean threads and maybe some permatex high temp thread sealant. Haha, a few weeks too late for me after going through sparks, cleaning MAF, EGR, throttle body, found my rough idle culprit. Everybody tells me to sell my 14 Forester (60k, garage kept in FL). Bearings, AC compressor, PCV, now bushings. It's enough I never want another Subaru
All that at only 60k? At least you won’t have to do those things in the near future
@@pprb123 I was trying to find the root of the idling issue. I've had to replace AC compressor, 2 rear bearings, 6 bushings that were completely dry rotted. The car is garage kept. 14-18 Subaru's are crap. A mechanic told me to sell it before 100k as the CVT transmission will be out of warranty.
i have a 16 legacy and have never had any problems. all i have done was replace spark plugs at 98k and now i’m going into 106k strong
Ho sostituito 2 lampadine hid Xenon OEM su XV Crosstrek al costo di 164 euro l'una😢 avrei voluto delle semplici h4 come luci anabbaglianti
Thanks!
Thank you!!
Just did this on my 2011 2.5i Outback. Design was a little different as it didn’t screw into the block (red topped one). There was a short hose with a metal clip. Clip was easy enough to open with a screwdriver and close with a notched hand wrench. 20 minutes and the job was done. Valve was definitely seized and the inlet line to the throttle body was soaked in oil.
Thanks Mr. Subaru. I recently changed my PCV valve on my Nissan Sentra because someone on TH-cam said it was necessary but I didn't know why. Now I realize how important it is.
Mine was puffing out white smoke upon startup and my regular shop told me it was because it was just an old subaru thing. When I brought it to the dealership for a few other things, they found it was faulty and replaced it free of charge which was really nice. I appreciated that.
Dude, that was a great video. We can tell that you put a lot of time into it.
As usual, excelent content, Mr. Subaru! Thank you very much for helping us keeping our Subarus!
Thank you! Happy New Year!
EDIT update> After 3 days of PB blaster, I warmed up the engine, and hit the PCV with one more shot of PB, tapped gently on it for 60 seconds, and it finally came out. Small victory for shade tree guy
>>Taking a clue from this, I bought the PCV valve & hose, but even with 1/2 breaker bar and *moderate* pressure, I could not get the PCV valve out of the block, sure as hell don't want to break it. Didn't think I should try heat due to vapors. I'm going to PB Blast it for a few days and try again. ANy other methods??? Great video,, thank you Mr Subaru..
As I would accelerate there was a slight shutter thought it was plugs replaced. Thought it was Cv axles didn't replace yet. Saw this video checked mine out cleaned PCV and man the power was restored no more shutter! Definitely forgot about this and thanks for the reminder MrSubaru!
Thank you very much for the explanation and demo. Took me 5 minutes to do the whole job and you saved a bunch of money and reduced waste since part was just dirty inside, while my dealership said it has to be replaced along with the hose.
Honda dealer tech here. I suggest them for these very reasons myself and I often find I'm the only one even bothering to suggest them. I do it every 50k on my personal cars for peace of mind.
Good idea to change the hose as well. It can get brittle and leak. When it's like that, probably time to change both.
I'm guilty of it too, but brake cleaner on bare hands, no bueno 💀
For your "once every 30k mi or so" guy that uses it just to clean the PCV, probably not a big issue, but if you're working on cars all the time, PPE sucks, but it'll keep you alive, or at least reduce your cancer and liver problem chances significantly.
As always though, thanks Mr Subaru and team! You're great, and I often use your videos to explain to others (including my kid) how various things on a car work. Even when I know what I'm doing beforehand, I also like to watch a repair before I do it, I often learn a new trick or an easier way. Many thanks!
I would love to see Mr. Subaru build a forged internal EJ, I think it would be cool to hear your opinions on different manufacturers of internals for a short block, as well as long block components. Much like the tool comparison videos. Happy new year, thanks for the content!
Agreed!
Despite what brand of vehicle I own/drive at the time, I replace the PVC valve every 25K miles. No questions asked. It is a maintenance item in my humble opinion.
Awesome i cant believe i owned 4 subarus just bought my 5th one last month n i havent even check any pcv valves, i will check them this Spring.
Replaced the one on our 2015 Crosstrek last week with the OEM part. The vac hose to the manifold was hard and almost brittle down at the valve end. I didn't trust it not to leak after disturbing it. It didn't come off of the valve without a fight. Went and replaced that too for good measure.
Best just to unhook those PCV and CCV’s and run hoses down to the bottom of the engine compartment. The natural positive pressure in the engine will push through the hoses at needed. They don’t run on vacuum. That’s why it’s called “positive” crank case. I’ve unhooked those on every car I bought since 1988 and when I go to tear down the head, valves, and engine parts are just as clean as ever!
Sometimes the shake test won't determine if it's working the right way. The spring can be worn too.yiu can also do the blow test to see if it's doing it's job. In both directions. Even after cleaning if it fails the blow test, it's bad or not operating at the right threshold. Great video
Mine the spring and internal valve/plate was completely missing (it was clean straight through hole)
Sadly this was on my WRX after i had owned it for about 3 years and then the mechanic abused it on a test drive there was smoke pouring out of the valve cover leaks onto headers.
Luckily was no other major damage to other seals except a short term leak from front of sum near the main
Your videos instill confidence in my car and the repairs/maintenance I do on them. I had hesitation off of idle, so I pulled and cleaned my MAF/PCV/Throttle Body and it was an immediate improvement.
You described all the issues on my old 1996 Mazda MPV, and that PVC was constantly fouled up with oil. I always wondered why they had it as a 10,000 mile interval replace item in the owner manual. I never saw PVC replacement in the 2015 Subaru outback manual, but just checked it's at the 60,000 mile interval replacement. Though some owners say 100,000K and they are still on the original Subaru PVC.
I'm a Mazda 6 guy and they eat pcvs. Even if it rattles the valve can be bad. I just replace mine every 20k.
I was told that just because it rattles doesn’t mean it is good. There is another TH-cam video that suggests using a balloon to test. Thanks for the thorough explanation.
Thank you so much. I have asked my mechanic to check this thing because I’m using a quart of oil every 60 miles.
Mr Subaru 1387 your tutorials are full of good info that I enjoy watching. My ‘15 Forrester is serviced at an independent service shop that, like you, specializes in Subarus here in north east Ohio. Still I need to know the information that you present that makes me a more informed owner. We baby our Forrester.
93,000 km 2015 Legacy. It's easy to locate - but a long extension and a 19mm deep socket make it easy to get out. Mine felt a little gummy but was pretty good - no corrosion inside at all. A little break cleaner and working should keep 'er going for a good while.
Well this teaches me that it's well worth to think of the PCV valve as regular replace item since the part is inexpensive.
According to this vid, it's well worth the cost to pay a professional to replace it at regular intervals of age or mileage. Great info!
My car had a pcv valve recall. Apparently there was cracking. Subaru rebuilt the whole lower half of my engine with new parts. Pretty glad I went with that 10-year warranty plan.
Wish I would have known this 30,000 miles ago before my seals started leaking. I haven’t read anything about preforming this during regular maintenance intervals. Thanks
Exactly. I don't think it's in the maintenance schedule. Mine clogged and blew out crank and cam seals at 90,000 miles. So I had to replace those and basically do the timing belt at the same time, 15,000 miles early. $$$.
Great video. I like this format. If you keep doing this, I’d like to know more about the TGV system. Thanks
Glad you like the new format. Going to try to make more in this style. 👍🏻 Happy New Year!
Snap on tools are my favorite . Stay safe brother.
Ordered one for my 2008 Forester, thanks for the vid!
Thanks for saving the engine from failure
Thank you So much I was experiencing excessive consumption of oil with my 2012 Impreza 2.0 only to realize after the valve change that it was the clogged valve causing the problem
The ej255 and 257 have a PCV assembly and dealer will only sell it as an assembly ($60)
If you are careful you can remove it from the junction and install a new one. The pcv is inside the black plastic portion of the assembly
thank you sir for your information new suburu outback owner 2019 cloth seats 104k miles I love nicest car I've ever owned
excellent video.....regular maintenance keeps our EJs running.....FTW
Great video... Plan on buying a new hose because mine shattered like hard plastic prying it off the pcv... Mine sounded a little sluggish so I just bought a new one...250, 000 miles at 16 yrs old, its just time....
Good stuff! I just spent over $40k on a brand new Outback Touring XT and I want this overpriced hunk of metal to last a LONG time. It's a turbo too, which adds another level of worry. I only use Motul Eco-Lite oil and will change it every 6000 miles. I'd love to see you delve more into Subaru turbos, with examples.
Good luck to you, may your rings be tight and your boost all fun!
I drop the valve in a plastic bottle with gasoline, let it soak overnight and shake to bottle in the morning. Or brake cleaner. Cheaper than 20 bucks. Clean it when you change your oil is draining each time and you won't need to replace the metal ones. Keeps you from blowing your seals
Thank you Very much MR Subaru, Amazing content!!! Greetings from Chile South America
Don't know why I haven't subscribed, I've been your channel for 2 years. Subscribed 👍, so if the PCV valve isn't too bad just service/clean and reinstall right! I'm looking into a little more than normal vibration at idle on my 2019 2.5i with 113k miles, plugs were replaced by Subaru at 72k as well. I'm thinking of checking plugs my next oil change and looking into the PCV valve, might replace as I drive the Outback 4 to 600 miles a week, has been super reliable from the 21k miles I got it and have 2 month oil change intervals
So, I took the advice and had this replaced. Just for reference a independent shop in albuquerque charged me $73 for the valve, $41 for the hose, and $144 for R&R. And now they keep finding more leaks, crazy how in 12,000 miles (80k-92k) the 16’ Outback goes from no leaks or oil consumption. To leaks and using oil. I’ve watched most if not all of these Mr Subaru videos and I’m quickly falling out of love with the brand based on my current experience.
Good luck
I’d try a different shop. The pcv valve is a $30 part and a 15min job at most. They may be trying to take advantage of you.
Hi there. Just wanted to share my experience. This little part cost me around 1800 dollars. From 2 mechanics. One day out of nowhere my car sounded like it had a cam. I thought maybe it was the timing jumped or something, I took it to someone and they took the motor apart, replaced the timing belt, and head gaskets, Then I took it to another guy after the problem wasn't solved, he actually broke my intake *Don't ask me how* and the work he did didn't fix it. I finally got fed up with dipsh*t mechanics not doing proper work and solving small problems at a time. SO I did the work and Bam. within an hour I found out my PCV valve was shot and the hose was NOT connected. FUN FUN FUN ON THE BUN!
P.S. Do not take your car to the "My boi does it for cheap" "mechanic" types
Thanks for the video
Had to replace mine last year. Was so glad it was right there in the top. Easy replacement.
Explained everything very well, I learned a ton. My 05 Impreza recently began idling very rough and dying. Mine had no rattle and all gunked up. Idling much better now! Thanks for making these videos!
back in the old days before you were born, and headers were popular on small blocks of every make, we used to vent the crank case vapors into the the header collectors an angle
That's not before my time... Lol how old do you think I am? Saw that all the time in my drag racing days.
Swapped my EJ20 PCV Valve a week ago for a +06 WRX Valve so I could install an AOS
replaced my PCV with a hose, works great🤣
I rarely hear about replacing the rubber hose along with the pvc valve because that hose deterioration and clogs oil ports Which ruins the engine. I replaced two engines because of this
Awesome tip Mr. Subaru1387. Thanks for the informative tip on PCV information.
I have a 2019 Forester, 2.5L engine. There was talk one one of the Subaru forums of the PCV actually failing in place and pieces falling into the engine. Lots of white smoke coming out the tail pipe. The engine had to be taken apart. There was no recall on this in Canada but I bought one anyway, PCV valve #11810AA200, made in Japan, Canadian $33.39 incl tax. Needs 22mm deep socket. My mileage is low, 25,000km. Plan on replacing the PCV in Spring 2023.
Subaru had a recall on plastic PVC valves recently .Mine was plastic and was replaced by a metal one. Don't by a plastic PVC valve if possible..
Okay buying a AOS for my STI now. Thanks !
This is the very first thing I do as soon as I buy any used vehicles (I'm on my 16th vehicle, never torn any up to date). I always do the pcv valve, change the plugs, change the air filter, and clean the MAF sensor as soon as I drive away with it. I do all of them again every 50k miles. Also do oil change immediately, and I do oil changes every 1,500-2,500 miles at MOST- I don't give a damn what they say about modern oil not needing to be changed until 3k-5k miles... It costs very little and better safe than sorry. Keep it running clean and keep up on maintenance and just about any common car will last forever.
2011 Forester manual says to use red Three Bond, the equivalent of Permatex red thread bond. No way. Sounds like a good way to really cause a problem for future removal. Your high temperature silicone seal is a better recommendation.
The one using grommet is a hell of work trying to remove it...it just stucked on the grommet and have no idea how to pull it off without using heavy tools that will break it...I think the threaded version is better than the grommet type...easy to install and remove
Great advice, low cost and easy to replace. Thanks!
Too many notes, dear Mozart, too many notes 👌
I just changed my pcv hoses and valves on my 2010 WRX. My pcv was stuck closed and it was leaking oil on passenger valve cover. The hoses were hard as a rock too.
While it may seem obvious, i pointed this out to a friend who feels intimidated by cars but is a pc enthusiast that the P of PCV is the same problem of ventilation for a PC case, positive v negative pressure. He was like, Ohhhhhhhhhh
It is amazing how complicated some PCV valves are today. It used to be they were connected to the valve cover through a grommet. You popped it out, gave it a shake, and pushed right back in. I did a PCV valve replacement on a Volkswagen, a few years ago, and it was an all day job. How did they manage to take something so simple and complicate it to hell? Due to that, lug bolts instead of lug nuts, and the German love of torx bolts, I will never purchase a VW, BMW or Mercedes.
If you are "Lucky" the PCV valve hangs open and your engines runs bad because it acts like there is a vacuum leak. It won't blow out gaskets that way.
:49 Fixed orifices are common on some engines. Also, the things Germans and Swedes use for this purpose is sometimes different. All that was required back in the 60s was that there was something that redirected the blowby into the intake manifold. How they did it was not important
My 2014 Suby Outback 4 fist boxer has a rough idle and hard to start no codes so I am hoping the PCV valve is the cause, but when I went to replace it the hose is hard as a rock! so I am waiting for the hose to get here first then I can replace it and see if that helps. 160k miles. I already cleaned the MAF airflow sensor and cleaned the throttle valve body
Had a oil leak on my timing chain cover on my ‘12 3.6r and this fixed it. Still burns 1/4 quart of oil every 4,000 though😅
Isn’t this normal though?
Always informative for us novices and easy to follow along. Thank You!
Mr. Subaru, if this is a known issue on horizontal direct injection newer boxer 4 cylinders, why doesn't Subaru add anything to the service manual to check this say every 50-100k miles?
Just changed the one on my '12 Outback for the first time...the stupid clamps were the most annoying part of the job.
PCV systems were first introduced and used during WW2 by many automobile manufacturers. My WW2 Willy’s Jeep L134 engine has a PCV valve. So it was out way before the 1960s as claimed in the video.
yet the 1987 jeep cherokee didnt have one (?) nor a valve cover gasket.
[there was a plug in the valve cover, so easy to put in a universal PCV that should have been there when it was new]
I made the gasket and installed the correct tubing & PCV valve and it solved issues my sisters jeep was having.
*saw the same on other new cherokees in that time frame - the company saved just a few $ - ugh
even my old VW engines had them, but not the 87 jeep
First off, another great video on Subaru’s, really enjoy your content, always informative, Thanks.
But I was thinking the same thing about the 60’s comment. My 1953 Ford M38A1 CDN Army Jeep (F134 Hurricane motor) has a PCV as well. Actually the entire engine is a closed system design that was designed to be fully submerged in water. I wouldn’t try that now though on our Jeep, Forester or Outback!!!! Cheers.
You are a legend I'm defo checking and cleaning this at the weekend. Thanks a mil 👍
Glad I stumbled upon this video I notice that my oil has a gasoline sort of smell to it along with my wrx having a rattle noise where I can hear it when driving 2-3krpm on 1st and 2nd gear. I’ll give this a check for sure.
Awesome vid! Thanks Mr. Subaru, best info available.
just checked the wife's car, fb20... recently found oil was quite low. Checked today and oil cap has popped off, gonna get replacement cap and get it checked, UGH!
I received several warning lights on the dash of my 2013 Subaru Outback. I plugged my OBD scanner in and have misfires in cylinder 3. I pulled the plugs, and cylinder 3 and 4 had oil in the spark plug tubes so I installed new gaskets, tube seals and plugs. I also placed one new coil pack on cylinder 3, in the hope the misfire was gone. I also put new oil in at the same time. The engine runs and sounds "ok" BUT at slow speed or stops it will intermittently stall. When I put the scanner back on , I get code P0021(bank 2). At this time, I took it to my local mechanic and he tells me cylinder 3 has low compression, he did not do a leak down test just a compression test. I think it was 80 psi. I have 149K on this engine and he suggested I rip and replace with a low mileage motor. However, I want to determine what the cause is and try to solve it with this motor(if it makes sense). I plan on buying the OTC tool to do the leak down test you show in your other video's but I am wondering if the PCV valve could have been the cause of my original misfires? Also, could the PCV also cause the P0021 code, even though the code is timing related? Any input greatly appreciated.
Any update? Did you replace the pcv valve?
2016 2.5L PCV Warranty Maintenance Schedule and Safety Inspection Schedule.
Neither of these scheduled list any reference the PVC maintenance.
When asking Subaru USA about this they said ask your dealer. Rather than getting the dealer's opinion I want the official word from Subaru.
Pulling the engine to replace the RTV cam cover seal for $3,500 is a lot of money.
What should be the maintenance interval be for the PCV valve?
Basic auto shop should be required to graduate highschool. I can't remember a time when I didn't know what a pcv valve is or a time when I didn't understand how crankcase ventilation worked.
Great video, excellent info. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Can you do a walkthrough of how to change the PCV valve on the 2005 Fozzy XT? I’m not a mechanic but willing to learn how to do maintenances.
@@doom3380 great advice . I already got the manual. It does cover the PCV valve topic but it wasn’t really clear. I tried google it but no luck. It’ll be great if you can point me to the website or something. Thanks again for any advice.
Jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru
@@MrSubaru1387 this is gold. Thanks everyone for the help.
Thank you for including which RTV silicon to use.