I've watched several videos on replacing rotors on Subarus and they say don't use the screw holes on the rotors to get them off. They're wrong. I used 3"-8mm-125 pitch bolts and the rotors broke lose with very little effort with a 13mm wrench. So, much easier than any other method.
In front of each rear tire and behind each front tire, there is a spot with two notches on the pinch weld of the body. Set your jack there. Be careful, your jack should have a saddle with pad to avoid damaging your pinch weld. As for the jack stands, I placed them under the control arm on each side. I left the weight on the jack and used the jack stands as an emergency measure. I did not find a good place to put the jack stands that would support the vehicle. Not ideal or textbook, but I have 3 ton floor jacks so they can hold the weight.
One of the two videos I explain that I was kicking myself for doing it, but I have 2019 Outback that one of the front rotors went bad on me. When the Ascent got to 50K, I decided to change them before anything went bad. Also, I was once 1000 miles from home when I had front caliper fail me on my Super Duty with 30K miles. Still, I could have gotten a lot more use out of these, but I the video helped in some way.
As long as you did not loosen the brake line connection, no bleeding is required. When you expand the calipers to the fully open position, the fluid goes back into the reservoir.
It’s a personal preference. I have done both. If the fluid needs changing and I know I am going to be opening the bleeder, I will. I suspect most shops just press them back so they don’t have to worry about bleeding the brakes and can move on to the next job. Is it best practice? Maybe not. If the fluid is clear, I just remove the reservoir cap and push the fluid back. As my username indicates, I am a hack and I don’t wrench on other peoples cars. So no one to blame but me.
I've watched several videos on replacing rotors on Subarus and they say don't use the screw holes on the rotors to get them off. They're wrong. I used 3"-8mm-125 pitch bolts and the rotors broke lose with very little effort with a 13mm wrench. So, much easier than any other method.
I like the OTC rotor puller. I once had one stuck so bad I had to Sawzall it off. Even heating it with a torch didn't work
Excellent! One question, where did you jack and support the vehicle?
In front of each rear tire and behind each front tire, there is a spot with two notches on the pinch weld of the body. Set your jack there. Be careful, your jack should have a saddle with pad to avoid damaging your pinch weld. As for the jack stands, I placed them under the control arm on each side. I left the weight on the jack and used the jack stands as an emergency measure. I did not find a good place to put the jack stands that would support the vehicle. Not ideal or textbook, but I have 3 ton floor jacks so they can hold the weight.
Well done. Thanks for sharing.
Great video
What is that purple stuff you put on the pins? These days I only use clear silicone pin grease.
My only question is why are you replacing brake pads that are still in perfect condition? Both pads have 50,000 miles left on them.
One of the two videos I explain that I was kicking myself for doing it, but I have 2019 Outback that one of the front rotors went bad on me. When the Ascent got to 50K, I decided to change them before anything went bad. Also, I was once 1000 miles from home when I had front caliper fail me on my Super Duty with 30K miles. Still, I could have gotten a lot more use out of these, but I the video helped in some way.
I have 2 Subaru ascent just found out the strucks are done after 35 k
I lost a rear strut on my 2019 Outback at about the same mileage.
what was the point of the 11mm hex? thanks for sharing!
the whole point was to lube the caliper bolt? thanks
What tool did you use for the electronic brake?
a.co/d/bHnEVR3
I verified the Autel 808 will disengage the EPB. That's the proper way to do the back.
Do you have to bleed the brakes again?
As long as you did not loosen the brake line connection, no bleeding is required. When you expand the calipers to the fully open position, the fluid goes back into the reservoir.
You should be opening the bleeder to evacuate the fluid not send it back up the line.
It’s a personal preference. I have done both. If the fluid needs changing and I know I am going to be opening the bleeder, I will. I suspect most shops just press them back so they don’t have to worry about bleeding the brakes and can move on to the next job. Is it best practice? Maybe not. If the fluid is clear, I just remove the reservoir cap and push the fluid back. As my username indicates, I am a hack and I don’t wrench on other peoples cars. So no one to blame but me.
where did you buy the pads?
I buy all my parts from RockAuto online