Install a Fumoto valve. Makes changing oil a breeze. The silicone tubing and valve eqals zero mess. Best thing I have done and esures changing oils every 3000 miles.
@@yal100 I don't even use a ramp, I can just slide under and do it... And the real beauty of the fumoto... If you overfill the oil, it is so easy to just drain out just a little oil nice and controlled.
When someone over tightens the oil drain plug, replace the crush washer when reassembling. When checking the oil level, check the rubber "O" ring on the top of the dipstick. Sometimes they split. While under the left front wheel arch, check the plastic tabs holding the rock guards in place. If the one under the wiper fluid reservoir is missing a couple, it'll eventually fall out, only to be crushed by the front tire... then there's a chance road debris could impact the reservoir. If you remove the intake duct behind the air filter housing, you can spray/clean the throttle body. The MAF sensor is right by the filter housing, so can be sprayed with that type cleaner (don't use other sprays!). The EGR valve is on the top of the engine, so worth changing as well (and it can be cleaned if that's your choice). Wife's 2013 Crosstrek has 160,00+ miles and still runs well. All pretty easy owner maintenance items. Overall, nice video. Thanks.
14:10 Not stated, but important, is that you should disengage the NEGATIVE (-) terminal first when disconnecting the battery. When reconnecting, attach POSITIVE (+) terminal first. Remember: ReMOVE = MINUS, RePLACE = PLUS.
I like that you are contributing to the "YES, even YOU humble watcher can service your own car, AND here's how, AND here's the money SAVED by doing it in your driveway." Takes the stigma off of how "complex and difficult" it is to work on cars. 🍻
@@hendersonequipment I try to do the same on my channel. Lots of people didn't have a father and don't know how to do, what I would argue is, basic stuff. Anyone can change an air filter, and save money doing it. While TH-cam is generally an evil company, the fact that there are so many how-to and DIY vids on the site are of cultural benefit. 🍻
@@hendersonequipment vacuum, then slight mist of brake cleaner and paper towel in the corners. Also unscrew the cover slightly at throttle body end. Suggest ya make an updated version 😂
@@hendersonequipmentit’s two plastic push pins to remove that whole front half of the air snorkel. Take it away from the car and you can still use compressed air.
When you include all the other things to keep vehicle in top condition (replace coolant, CVT trans, brake and differential fluids) you’re talking about saving well over $1000. And don’t forget to check PCV valve often and clean or change as needed. It’s critical if you don’t want to end up with blown engine seals and gaskets!
I'm in Bay Area, CA and they quoted north of $1,200+ for 60k. Might as well drive to another state to get the work done. But seriously, great to see you making a video to show folks how to maintain and service the Crosstrek
My first oil change on my Impreza and ascent I had to use a breaker bar to loosen the oil drain plug. Never had a problem with a drain plug before. Don’t know what Subaru is doing. I figured they crank it down to make it hard for DYI.
Suggestion- don’t torque lug nuts while lifted off the ground. It puts load on transmission in park abd can damage it. It should be checked when it’s resting on the ground under load.
My 2019 Crosstrek 2.0 is almost at 60K miles, so this was helpful. I never bother, but you’re supposed to swap the rear tires side to side when you rotate them. I always replace the oil drain plug washer. Finally, I didn’t see you check the oil level in the CVT or either differential.
As far as I know, that's for front wheel drive vehicles. For rear and AWD, you actually swap the fronts diagonally when going back and the rears directly forward. I'll be honest though, I have no idea WHY it's different.
I've done the sparkplugs on my '05 Outback and I didn't even have to take the battery out!!! Just the airbox. Midas wanted 500.00 to do this and another 250.00 for engine treatment, plus taxes!!!! I told them to pound sand and went home, saw a video on my car and ran to Canadian Tire to buy the parts and it was like 40.00 for platinum NGKs. 7 bucks for a couple beers and about 45 minutes and done. I am doing my own work on my car from now on because the shops are too expensive!!! Plus, there is a level of satisfaction from completing a repair on your vehicle. In the last 2 weeks, I have replaced the master window control module on the driver side door for like 43.00 and about an hour of time. I encourage all owners to get schooled on your vehicle and know what you can do and what you can't do. Last month I had the dreaded head gasket fail and that was 4,000.00 to repair!!! You know that was 90% labor and 10% parts, but it is something I just can't do.
Nicely put, yes I would like to save the $500. I was a Toyota tech for many years, not all the labor items are performed, only the obvious, flipping cars in and out ASAP is how we make $$$. I do all my Maintenance myself also & I'm very meticulous as you were. Nice video. 👍
For my Spark plug socket wrench I used a 14mm Magnetic Spark Plug Socket with Magnetic Design, Swivel Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket, 3/8" Drive x 4" Total Length, 360 Degree Swivel, 12 Point It made the job a lot easier
Dealer in CA quoted me $2000 for this service, but it also included a front and rear diff fluid change. They said the bulk of the cost was labor for the spark plugs, which is $250 an hour and it takes them “4 hours.” They also wanted $100 for the cabin filter, however Walmart carries OEM equivalent ones for $14. I told them to get bent.
4 HOURS for the spark plugs! 1 hour each spark plug haha! It took me 1 hour total and it was my first time EVER swapping any kind of spark plug. Kirby Subaru quoted me about the same for this maintenance so I went the DIY way. I did buy the OEM parts from the dealer tho.
Cabin air filter - although the OEM air filter has an arrow that points up, that indicates the direction of how the air filter should be and not the direction of the air flow. Air flow is actually outside to inside.
I had a two year maintenance from the dealership. They over tighten the filter and drain plug to make it more difficult for diy people. I had to replace the plug it was torqued down with an air wrench to over 150 pounds
Isn’t that a shame! Thanks for the comment and the support. I’m a big believer of doing things yourself. Not only do you save money but you get to learn at the same time 😎. Thanks for watching!
I had free oil changes from the dealer for awhile then I started doing my own. The oil plug had never had a wrench on it and it was incredibly tight. Replaced with a quick change valve. The dealership use removes the oil via the dipstick tube. This is a method very common on inboard boat engines. They don't have to put the car up on a lift to suck it from the dipstick tube. So in other words, the plug is that tight from the factory.
I would add using an electronic battery checker to test CCA and charging efficiency... Whilst the wheels were off I would check rubber gaiters on ball ends and any potential signs of leaks on the shock absorbers... I'd run my fingers over the brake discs to check for ridges.. If you have sufficient ground clearance an underbody check for damage, anything loose, or leaks is also worth doing.. I check coolant levels and coolant strength using a tool.. Finally a check of all lighting, indicators, horn function, washer reservoir top up and wiper blades.. Then reset the service interval warning..
I just finish installing the two spark plugs on the driver side. the one closes to the firewall is a bear to do. I unplug the computer and unbolted the bracket next to it to make more room. I also used a Universal Joint Socket on the 14 mm spark plug socket. I torque them with a inch pound torque wrench which was small enough to fit. the other spark plug is much easier to do. took me over 2 hours to do. If I had to do it again I would look at loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up a little.
Thanks for he feedback in your experience. I agree I would unbolt the one motor mount and jack it up. They didn’t engineer is well for homeowner repair
I got a Fumoto or EZ Oil Drain valve installed. No need to replace the washer and drain plug. Been using it on a Forester and Outback with no problem. Valve can be locked with a ring. Just turn to drain. EZ and no mess.
Crush washer on oil drain plug needs to be replaced there is a torque spec that's why it so hard for your short wrench/girly arms. Also drain with filter off in case there is an air pocket. Also you ideally need to wait till more used oil drains out maybe like 10-15 minutes to minimize contamination of new oil. Over all great video I like the cost break down at the end. If someone doesn't have the tools you have to figure that into the cost. jack, jack stand sockets wrenches screwdrivers magnet etc etc... another few hundred added to the cost at least so for a lot of people that don't have the tools or space it's worth having a "expert" do it. Another thing, color doesn't always indicate that brake fluid is bad and needs replacement. It can be bad and not "look" bad. For me Ill do half of those items and have the plugs brake fluid tire rotation and line inspections done at a shop for some savings off the shop bill. Cheers.
16:35 Some guys have actually loosened (or removed) the engine mount nuts to allow them to carefully jack the engine up a couple of inches for improved clearance. I suppose anything helps!
2000? omg this is horrible omg they think we are rich. in my case im not rich . in every thing in this world if you don't know how to do it yourself then you gonna end up get wrekt by them
They are crazy! This is not the easiest job in the world but it is doable you just need to set some time aside. Thanks for watching and for reaching out!
I would love to be able to do such things on my own, but I lack the facilities. I am disallowed from working on my car in my apartment complex parking lot, and of course there are certain people who will snitch for the slightest infraction. Even changing my air filter got me a talking to by complex management.
You forgot to mention that we also need to make an appointment with the shop, and waste time to go there and wait for the job to be done, which takes easily 2 hours.
Great video. We have a 6-cylinder Outback -- I do everything myself but have not yet dealt with spark plugs. That looks like a nightmare, at least driver's side.
Try to search some videos, several mechanics & myself used swivel extensions & sockets with low profile ratchets. Just take you time & move as much accessories out of the was as possible.
Hello, thanks for providing this instructional video. I have successfully replaced all of the plugs except that driver’s side rear plug on my wife’s car. Looking to have someone elaborate on the process of lifting the engine. Specifics such as where and how the motor mounts are located and the process to lift. Thank you kindly.
Thanks for the comment and reaching out! It’s a real PIA but you’ll get it done. Can you email me at heusa19504@gmail.com? I’ll send you some pictures showing you 😎
Good vid. You only lost me when you said “start up the engine and make sure it sounds okay”. My lifters hammer around like Thor for several seconds any time I start it from cold. Oh well, it runs fine. thank’s for the pointers.
Thanks for the comment and the humor! The noise is interesting sounds like the lifters are pretty dry to start. I’ve heard of complaints about this from others. You may want to try using a deadpan treatment in the oil system and then replacing the oil again with a littler heavier full synthetic 5w20
Missing from the list: Front and rear diff fluid change, Brake fluid flush. check ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links, LCA bushings, CV boots (outer and inner), drive shaft, bearings. I also do a drain and fill CVTF, but that's just me.
Appreciate the comment! I agree that all those inspections should be done but in PA we perform all of those inspections during the safety inspections yearly. The differential and trans fluid we changed at 30k and that was a waste of money, we’ll be doing it at 100k next. Brake fluid flushing that’s a scam. If this was an older car that had been sitting for years and the anti corrosive additives in the brake fluid were gone sure that is just a brake fluid flushing is a money scam for car owners.
@@hendersonequipment I respectfully disagree. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so moisture in Pennsylvania will be absorbed in the braking system which will make it turn dark and start corroding the lines. Worst case: over heating the brake pads the moisture turns into gas that cause spongy or no brake. Cheers.
Washer fluid full marker is 3 cm below the yellow cap. if you look on the side near the top cap it shows FULL marker there. Hard to see as its the same color.
Nice DIY video. Agree the dealers over torque the oil drain plug to prevent you from performing the same service at home. Did you need to loosen up both engine mounts to get to the driver side rear spark plug?
Thanks for reaching out! On the driver side I did not have to loosen the mount. I was able to get it done without it BUT It certainly would have made is easier/more comfortable!
I did my first oil change on the Subaru with the drain plug snug, a couple days later I noted a tiny leak from the drain plug, I brought out the torque wrench and did the plug to spec (30ft./lbs) and I haven’t had a leak since. 30ft./lbs is significantly more substantial than most people’s snug and then some. Moral of the story pull out the torque wrench
If you dont have an oil filter wrench, just drive a screwdriver across (horizontally) it, punching through both sides. Now you have two handles and more leverage to unscrew it.
@@hendersonequipment "Trick". Sure. Violence-induced solution, but let's go with "trick". 😜 I love that Subaru out it topside, same on my Forester, but it's sits lower than the components around it, so same as you I just ended up buying the wrench. I figure it will pay for itself in four or five driveway oil changes.
That’s a very good question. I decided to change mine per Subaru recommendation but the oil was so nice that I truly feel it was a waste. I would push it to 100k. Thanks so much for the comment!
Bite the bullet, get it done at 50,000 MAX! Its the single most important thing with a CVT! Trust me. Subaru if America says it's lifetime fluid, if course it us! It will last untill the tran's life is over! Subaru Canada says 40K miles(?) Subaru Japan says 40K KILOMETERS! I am an old guy that has driven Subarus since they looked like they came from Mars, so trust me in this one. CVT'S NEED CLEAN FLUID TO LIVE!
The first thing you do is remove the engine air filter and apply compressed air to the area. What if you’re blowing junk into the clean side of the filter? Not good.
Appreciate the feedback. Yes in hindsight a rag or something to block the intake would have been ideal but nothing got into the throttle body on this one. She’s been running great though 😀
That’s a good question! The 60k mile servicing from Subaru calls for them to be replaced and after doing the job I personally do not see the need to do them ever 60k. I would push them to 100k. However without changing the plugs during this interval I truly didn’t know what shape they would be in. I won’t be changing them until I hit the next 100k
@@hendersonequipment I have a Crosstrek with 50k and I will have to make a decision soon. Your advice is helpful. I will pull a couple of plugs and inspect them.
@@jonpender what year crosstrec? Best way to know if you need them changed would be your driving nature. Low travel time between heat cycles. What's your oil consumption between services? Do you live in hilly country (more chance of oil consumption?)
Those spark plugs are brutal to change. Before I watched your vid, I replaced the passenger side and had a local shop do the driver's for $150. Still much less than the $485 quoted by a dealer. Have you replaced the fuel filter yet? I've been hunting for a video that shows this 72K mile service item but cannot find one.
Thanks for the comment. Yes they are not the easier for sure. Engineers need to get in tune with service ability of these units. I haven’t changed the fuel filter yet but I can do that next! I need to see if it has a fuel filter a lot of fuel filters in cars are in the fuel take tied to the fuel pump. Car manufacturers are slowly getting away from addition fuel filtration which is stupid. Thanks again!
Don't pull and clean them. I would buy Lucas fuel injector cleaner and use that in your fuel. Works Great! Batteries are an interesting topic! Some batteries only last 3 years where I have had batteries last 10+ years. Once you hit the 8yr mark I would definitely look to replace it because it's end of life failure is imminent. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Just a question on tire rotation: Are those tires directional? If not, why didn’t you put the rear tires on the diagonally opposite side on front instead of keeping them on the same side?
Thanks for the comment. Great question. If the tires are directional or sized differently then your stuck with just swapping left to right. If they are the same size then you can rotate in a few different fashions you can do front to rear straight and then x pattern cross them on the next one(that’s what I do) or you can front to rear cross them which is what most shops do. Hope this helps! 😁
Yeah if the car was 15years old or if it sat a lot maybe I could see the brake flush but for the most part those are just a dealer sales gimic. Thanks for watching!
@@hendersonequipment wow, everyone and their mother suggests a brake flush every 2-3 years, you're saying 15?? Isn't that a little too long?? nothing in between?
You missed a bunch of maintenance items. Put a clean rag into the air intake hose BEFORE you blow out the air box. Some of the debris will go into the air intake hose when you blow it all over the place. Some engine manufacturers put a safety filter inside of the main filter to prevent this from happening. Never top off brake fluid. There are only 2 reasons the brake fluid should be low. There is a leak or the brake pads are wearing down. You can't keep track of how much wear the pads have if you top off the brake fluid. The brake fluid and antifreeze should also be changed. Changing the PCV valve in critical on newer Subaru engines. A plugged PCV valve will create pressure inside the crankcase. As others have mentioned, this will force oil leaks. The most likely place the oil will leak is the timing chain cover. It is a job that you want to avoid at all costs. If you look in the Owner's Manual, you will see a maintenance schedule and it will point out everything that you missed.
I really enjoy seeing people do regular maintenance, it is so neglected. It also reminded me I need to change my cabin air filter!
Thanks for the comment and the support!!
Install a Fumoto valve. Makes changing oil a breeze. The silicone tubing and valve eqals zero mess. Best thing I have done and esures changing oils every 3000 miles.
Great idea! I was just looking at these. Definitely getting one ☝️
Makes oil changes so quick. Majority of the 10-15 minutes is spent getting the car on/off the ramp lol
Can vouch, oil changes are such an easy task now
I installed Fumoto’s on both of my Subies. So much easier and faster!
@@yal100 I don't even use a ramp, I can just slide under and do it... And the real beauty of the fumoto... If you overfill the oil, it is so easy to just drain out just a little oil nice and controlled.
When someone over tightens the oil drain plug, replace the crush washer when reassembling. When checking the oil level, check the rubber "O" ring on the top of the dipstick. Sometimes they split. While under the left front wheel arch, check the plastic tabs holding the rock guards in place. If the one under the wiper fluid reservoir is missing a couple, it'll eventually fall out, only to be crushed by the front tire... then there's a chance road debris could impact the reservoir. If you remove the intake duct behind the air filter housing, you can spray/clean the throttle body. The MAF sensor is right by the filter housing, so can be sprayed with that type cleaner (don't use other sprays!). The EGR valve is on the top of the engine, so worth changing as well (and it can be cleaned if that's your choice). Wife's 2013 Crosstrek has 160,00+ miles and still runs well. All pretty easy owner maintenance items. Overall, nice video. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment and your additional input and guidance! Stay tuned 😎
Oil drain plug should be replaced on all my non-Subaru cars. I think Subaru has the same rule. I never reused one in my life.
@@wizard-of-other-ozNever heard of anyone doing that. Can you please explain why?
14:10 Not stated, but important, is that you should disengage the NEGATIVE (-) terminal first when disconnecting the battery. When reconnecting, attach POSITIVE (+) terminal first. Remember: ReMOVE = MINUS, RePLACE = PLUS.
You start with black ➖⬛️and finish with black➖⬛️
I like that you are contributing to the "YES, even YOU humble watcher can service your own car, AND here's how, AND here's the money SAVED by doing it in your driveway." Takes the stigma off of how "complex and difficult" it is to work on cars. 🍻
I really appreciate you saying that and for your support! I’m not the best at filming and editing but I’m just trying to help everyone out 😁
@@hendersonequipment I try to do the same on my channel. Lots of people didn't have a father and don't know how to do, what I would argue is, basic stuff. Anyone can change an air filter, and save money doing it. While TH-cam is generally an evil company, the fact that there are so many how-to and DIY vids on the site are of cultural benefit. 🍻
Don't shoot compressed air like that into the engine air filter assembly. It could get debris into the engine side.
Thanks for the comment and I agree best to be safe than sorry
@@hendersonequipment vacuum, then slight mist of brake cleaner and paper towel in the corners.
Also unscrew the cover slightly at throttle body end. Suggest ya make an updated version 😂
@@hendersonequipmentit’s two plastic push pins to remove that whole front half of the air snorkel. Take it away from the car and you can still use compressed air.
@@joelwickman8765 thanks for the pro tip!
I keep engine air filter still on when using compressed air that will prevent the dust side into the clean side
When you include all the other things to keep vehicle in top condition (replace coolant, CVT trans, brake and differential fluids) you’re talking about saving well over $1000. And don’t forget to check PCV valve often and clean or change as needed. It’s critical if you don’t want to end up with blown engine seals and gaskets!
My mantra is "It is better to torque each lug nut twice, than to forget to do it once". 👍
I'm in Bay Area, CA and they quoted north of $1,200+ for 60k. Might as well drive to another state to get the work done. But seriously, great to see you making a video to show folks how to maintain and service the Crosstrek
Thank you for the comment and the encouragement. Everything is so pricey nowadays that I encourage everyone to try and do things yourself
Best things get out of California 😂😂😂
My first oil change on my Impreza and ascent I had to use a breaker bar to loosen the oil drain plug. Never had a problem with a drain plug before. Don’t know what Subaru is doing. I figured they crank it down to make it hard for DYI.
Thanks for the comment and sharing. Yes they do not want folks doing it themselves selves. Keep up the good work! Stay tuned
Suggestion- don’t torque lug nuts while lifted off the ground. It puts load on transmission in park abd can damage it. It should be checked when it’s resting on the ground under load.
Valid point. Thanks!
I recommend replacing the pcv valve every 30k miles. It’s cheap and easy, and if left neglected, can cause a wide range of issues.
My 2019 Crosstrek 2.0 is almost at 60K miles, so this was helpful. I never bother, but you’re supposed to swap the rear tires side to side when you rotate them. I always replace the oil drain plug washer. Finally, I didn’t see you check the oil level in the CVT or either differential.
As far as I know, that's for front wheel drive vehicles. For rear and AWD, you actually swap the fronts diagonally when going back and the rears directly forward. I'll be honest though, I have no idea WHY it's different.
I've done the sparkplugs on my '05 Outback and I didn't even have to take the battery out!!! Just the airbox.
Midas wanted 500.00 to do this and another 250.00 for engine treatment, plus taxes!!!!
I told them to pound sand and went home, saw a video on my car and ran to Canadian Tire to buy the parts and it was like 40.00 for platinum NGKs.
7 bucks for a couple beers and about 45 minutes and done.
I am doing my own work on my car from now on because the shops are too expensive!!! Plus, there is a level of satisfaction from completing a repair on your vehicle.
In the last 2 weeks, I have replaced the master window control module on the driver side door for like 43.00 and about an hour of time.
I encourage all owners to get schooled on your vehicle and know what you can do and what you can't do.
Last month I had the dreaded head gasket fail and that was 4,000.00 to repair!!! You know that was 90% labor and 10% parts, but it is something I just can't do.
🍻love hearing it! Nothing like drinking beer and fixing your own stuff. Save your money. Thanks for sharing !!
@ 6:34 Why didn't you replace the crush washer?
Especially after the carnage it went through before...
Nicely put, yes I would like to save the $500. I was a Toyota tech for many years, not all the labor items are performed, only the obvious, flipping cars in and out ASAP is how we make $$$. I do all my Maintenance myself also & I'm very meticulous as you were. Nice video. 👍
Thanks for commenting and the support. I encourage everyone to do as much of the work themselves as possible. Thanks for watching and supporting 😎
For my Spark plug socket wrench I used a 14mm Magnetic Spark Plug Socket with Magnetic Design, Swivel Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket, 3/8" Drive x 4" Total Length, 360 Degree Swivel, 12 Point
It made the job a lot easier
I bet! I’ll probably pick one up now. Thanks!
Dealer in CA quoted me $2000 for this service, but it also included a front and rear diff fluid change. They said the bulk of the cost was labor for the spark plugs, which is $250 an hour and it takes them “4 hours.” They also wanted $100 for the cabin filter, however Walmart carries OEM equivalent ones for $14. I told them to get bent.
Good for you! I understand that businesses need to make money but that is price gouging! Thanks for the comment
Thats such BS! I can do it in about 30 minutes
@@eodninja6 can you imagine how fast a trained technician should be able to do it in?
4 HOURS for the spark plugs! 1 hour each spark plug haha! It took me 1 hour total and it was my first time EVER swapping any kind of spark plug.
Kirby Subaru quoted me about the same for this maintenance so I went the DIY way. I did buy the OEM parts from the dealer tho.
@@eodninja6 on this Subaru? I doubt it.
Great video! No judgment from me, great basic guidelines for others to follow! You save me a boatload of money at the dealership! Thanks brother!
Appreciate the feedback. You get a lot of criticism on here. Thanks again for the support!
Cabin air filter - although the OEM air filter has an arrow that points up, that indicates the direction of how the air filter should be and not the direction of the air flow. Air flow is actually outside to inside.
Thanks for this!
5:50 Strongly recommend replacing oil drain plug with a Fumoto slide-open valve with snout.
This has been a popular recommendation. Thanks for watching!
I had a two year maintenance from the dealership. They over tighten the filter and drain plug to make it more difficult for diy people. I had to replace the plug it was torqued down with an air wrench to over 150 pounds
Isn’t that a shame! Thanks for the comment and the support. I’m a big believer of doing things yourself. Not only do you save money but you get to learn at the same time 😎. Thanks for watching!
I had free oil changes from the dealer for awhile then I started doing my own. The oil plug had never had a wrench on it and it was incredibly tight. Replaced with a quick change valve. The dealership use removes the oil via the dipstick tube. This is a method very common on inboard boat engines. They don't have to put the car up on a lift to suck it from the dipstick tube.
So in other words, the plug is that tight from the factory.
I would add using an electronic battery checker to test CCA and charging efficiency...
Whilst the wheels were off I would check rubber gaiters on ball ends and any potential signs of leaks on the shock absorbers... I'd run my fingers over the brake discs to check for ridges..
If you have sufficient ground clearance an underbody check for damage, anything loose, or leaks is also worth doing..
I check coolant levels and coolant strength using a tool..
Finally a check of all lighting, indicators, horn function, washer reservoir top up and wiper blades..
Then reset the service interval warning..
👍
Worth the time, because I know conditions of the car and what I did, I didn’t hide what I broke
I agree! Thanks for the comment
I just finish installing the two spark plugs on the driver side. the one closes to the firewall is a bear to do. I unplug the computer and unbolted the bracket next to it to make more room. I also used a Universal Joint Socket on the 14 mm spark plug socket. I torque them with a inch pound torque wrench which was small enough to fit. the other spark plug is much easier to do. took me over 2 hours to do. If I had to do it again I would look at loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up a little.
Thanks for he feedback in your experience. I agree I would unbolt the one motor mount and jack it up. They didn’t engineer is well for homeowner repair
I got a Fumoto or EZ Oil Drain valve installed. No need to replace the washer and drain plug. Been using it on a Forester and Outback with no problem. Valve can be locked with a ring. Just turn to drain. EZ and no mess.
Thanks for the comment. Love the ingenuity!
Crush washer on oil drain plug needs to be replaced there is a torque spec that's why it so hard for your short wrench/girly arms. Also drain with filter off in case there is an air pocket. Also you ideally need to wait till more used oil drains out maybe like 10-15 minutes to minimize contamination of new oil. Over all great video I like the cost break down at the end. If someone doesn't have the tools you have to figure that into the cost. jack, jack stand sockets wrenches screwdrivers magnet etc etc... another few hundred added to the cost at least so for a lot of people that don't have the tools or space it's worth having a "expert" do it. Another thing, color doesn't always indicate that brake fluid is bad and needs replacement. It can be bad and not "look" bad. For me Ill do half of those items and have the plugs brake fluid tire rotation and line inspections done at a shop for some savings off the shop bill. Cheers.
The drain plugs are suppose to be torqued to 30ft lbs. I guess I need to work out more. Thanks for the comment and for watching 😎
You made it look so easy. I should be doing these myself...
That’s for you to judge. For me, I’d like to save the money and do it myself. You need to take tome out of your day and patience to do it.
16:35 Some guys have actually loosened (or removed) the engine mount nuts to allow them to carefully jack the engine up a couple of inches for improved clearance. I suppose anything helps!
Dealership quotes $2400 for 120k service+diff and cvt fluid change. I can't keep smiling because I already have done them myself.
What a rip off! Thanks for commenting and supporting! 😎
2000? omg this is horrible omg they think we are rich. in my case im not rich . in every thing in this world if you don't know how to do it yourself then you gonna end up get wrekt by them
Good slow thorough instructions with your demonstrations.
Thanks for the positive comment!
Went to the local dealership and inquired about the price on the 60k service, they said 1100-1300 depending on the model…. They’re insane
They are crazy! This is not the easiest job in the world but it is doable you just need to set some time aside. Thanks for watching and for reaching out!
60k also includes transmission fluid and filter ,efi service throttle body cleaning ect. Thera definitely more to the 60k service then this guy did
Just and fyi, ive watched other videos and to make it easier to remove drivers rear plug, they remove battery tray. But other thatn that great video
Thanks and great point!
Nice video, going to do the same myself soon, looks not too bad.
Thanks! Yes definitely give it a shot and let me know if you run into any issues! I’m happy to help 😎
Looks like you got the hen approval ✅
That oil filter is way easier to get to than my car! Poor Mr. Spanky 😅
Thanks! Yes the 🐔 will be making a few cameos
I would love to be able to do such things on my own, but I lack the facilities. I am disallowed from working on my car in my apartment complex parking lot, and of course there are certain people who will snitch for the slightest infraction. Even changing my air filter got me a talking to by complex management.
Sounds like they’re a bunch of a$sholes if you ask me. Thanks for watching!
Bummer! Do it in the parking lot of Auto Zone next to the sign that says, "No Vehicle Work".
I installed a valve and tubing in place of my oil drain plug. Flip the valve and it drains without any wrench or mess.
Nice! Smart. Thanks for watching 😎
You forgot to mention that we also need to make an appointment with the shop, and waste time to go there and wait for the job to be done, which takes easily 2 hours.
Appreciate the comment! 🤣
Great video. We have a 6-cylinder Outback -- I do everything myself but have not yet dealt with spark plugs. That looks like a nightmare, at least driver's side.
Thanks. I encourage everyone to try and do things themselves. Yes the one side was a PITA 😎. Thanks for watching!
Try to search some videos, several mechanics & myself used swivel extensions & sockets with low profile ratchets. Just take you time & move as much accessories out of the was as possible.
Hello, thanks for providing this instructional video. I have successfully replaced all of the plugs except that driver’s side rear plug on my wife’s car. Looking to have someone elaborate on the process of lifting the engine. Specifics such as where and how the motor mounts are located and the process to lift. Thank you kindly.
Thanks for the comment and reaching out! It’s a real PIA but you’ll get it done. Can you email me at heusa19504@gmail.com? I’ll send you some pictures showing you 😎
Thank you for the video, could not agree more with your logic! Well done!
Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Good vid. You only lost me when you said “start up the engine and make sure it sounds okay”. My lifters hammer around like Thor for several seconds any time I start it from cold. Oh well, it runs fine. thank’s for the pointers.
Thanks for the comment and the humor! The noise is interesting sounds like the lifters are pretty dry to start. I’ve heard of complaints about this from others. You may want to try using a deadpan treatment in the oil system and then replacing the oil again with a littler heavier full synthetic 5w20
Missing from the list: Front and rear diff fluid change, Brake fluid flush. check ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links, LCA bushings, CV boots (outer and inner), drive shaft, bearings. I also do a drain and fill CVTF, but that's just me.
Appreciate the comment! I agree that all those inspections should be done but in PA we perform all of those inspections during the safety inspections yearly. The differential and trans fluid we changed at 30k and that was a waste of money, we’ll be doing it at 100k next. Brake fluid flushing that’s a scam. If this was an older car that had been sitting for years and the anti corrosive additives in the brake fluid were gone sure that is just a brake fluid flushing is a money scam for car owners.
@@hendersonequipment I respectfully disagree. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so moisture in Pennsylvania will be absorbed in the braking system which will make it turn dark and start corroding the lines. Worst case: over heating the brake pads the moisture turns into gas that cause spongy or no brake. Cheers.
@@jtwu8931 Fair point! I do feel it is excessively done though.
Washer fluid full marker is 3 cm below the yellow cap. if you look on the side near the top cap it shows FULL marker there. Hard to see as its the same color.
Thanks for the comment!
Good video..brother how about coolant change. Or cvt fluid change?
Thanks for the comment I would wait until til 100k 😎
It would be worth it if I had the tools a we all don’t have the skills to do that work but a fun video to watch
Thanks!
Thanks for the video, very helpful. Do you have the torque specifications for the spark plugs?
Thanks again. DT
No more than 20ft lbs. I usually do 15. Thanks for watching!
Nice DIY video. Agree the dealers over torque the oil drain plug to prevent you from performing the same service at home. Did you need to loosen up both engine mounts to get to the driver side rear spark plug?
Thanks for reaching out! On the driver side I did not have to loosen the mount. I was able to get it done without it BUT It certainly would have made is easier/more comfortable!
nah you did it the hard way lol
I did my first oil change on the Subaru with the drain plug snug, a couple days later I noted a tiny leak from the drain plug, I brought out the torque wrench and did the plug to spec (30ft./lbs) and I haven’t had a leak since. 30ft./lbs is significantly more substantial than most people’s snug and then some.
Moral of the story pull out the torque wrench
Thanks. Torque wrench is the best option but the “old snug and then some” covers those who don’t have one. Old time shop saying
Thanks to Subaru videos i got me a nice Toyota.
Good video, but I would strip the pads, clean the calipers, copperslip the back of the pads and sliders.
Thanks for the comment!
If you dont have an oil filter wrench, just drive a screwdriver across (horizontally) it, punching through both sides. Now you have two handles and more leverage to unscrew it.
I love that trick
@@hendersonequipment "Trick". Sure. Violence-induced solution, but let's go with "trick". 😜
I love that Subaru out it topside, same on my Forester, but it's sits lower than the components around it, so same as you I just ended up buying the wrench. I figure it will pay for itself in four or five driveway oil changes.
It is worth it. What about the CVT/ gear box oil replacement sue at 60k as well? Great video
That’s a very good question. I decided to change mine per Subaru recommendation but the oil was so nice that I truly feel it was a waste. I would push it to 100k. Thanks so much for the comment!
Bite the bullet, get it done at 50,000 MAX!
Its the single most important thing with a CVT! Trust me.
Subaru if America says it's lifetime fluid, if course it us! It will last untill the tran's life is over!
Subaru Canada says 40K miles(?) Subaru Japan says 40K KILOMETERS!
I am an old guy that has driven Subarus since they looked like they came from Mars, so trust me in this one.
CVT'S NEED CLEAN FLUID TO LIVE!
@@fubartotale3389 Just went to the Subaru Canada website and for my 2024 Outback they don't recommend replacing CVT fluid until 100,000 KMs.
you absolutely did NOT tighten the drain plug enough, especially if you used a new crush washer. torque is around 25ft lbs to 30 ft lbs.
Sorry to disappoint but going snug and adding the +1/4 turn has always been successful for me. It hasn’t failed me yet and still no leaks 😎
Thank you 😀
Only part a bit scary is the access to the plugs.
Yes I agree
The first thing you do is remove the engine air filter and apply compressed air to the area. What if you’re blowing junk into the clean side of the filter? Not good.
Appreciate the feedback. Yes in hindsight a rag or something to block the intake would have been ideal but nothing got into the throttle body on this one. She’s been running great though 😀
Still a lot of oil draining, why put the plug back?
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Great video as usual
Thanks for the support!!
Can you tell me how tight you put the spark spugs because some say they're going to 12.9 other 13.3 other 15.4 please??
Thanks for reaching out! 15ftlbs is perfect 👍
If the sparkplugs are good for 100k miles why are you replacing them after 60k?
That’s a good question! The 60k mile servicing from Subaru calls for them to be replaced and after doing the job I personally do not see the need to do them ever 60k. I would push them to 100k. However without changing the plugs during this interval I truly didn’t know what shape they would be in. I won’t be changing them until I hit the next 100k
@@hendersonequipment I have a Crosstrek with 50k and I will have to make a decision soon. Your advice is helpful. I will pull a couple of plugs and inspect them.
@@jonpender what year crosstrec? Best way to know if you need them changed would be your driving nature.
Low travel time between heat cycles. What's your oil consumption between services?
Do you live in hilly country (more chance of oil consumption?)
OEM plugs are good for 100k
Yea they are. Although Subaru states to change them at 60K I’m not changing them until the next 100k
Those spark plugs are brutal to change. Before I watched your vid, I replaced the passenger side and had a local shop do the driver's for $150. Still much less than the $485 quoted by a dealer. Have you replaced the fuel filter yet? I've been hunting for a video that shows this 72K mile service item but cannot find one.
Thanks for the comment. Yes they are not the easier for sure. Engineers need to get in tune with service ability of these units. I haven’t changed the fuel filter yet but I can do that next! I need to see if it has a fuel filter a lot of fuel filters in cars are in the fuel take tied to the fuel pump. Car manufacturers are slowly getting away from addition fuel filtration which is stupid. Thanks again!
Replace pvc also
Good point. Cheap and easy!
I guess the Subaru 12v OEM battery would last ~6 years or 60,000~80,000 miles. Do you recommend to clean fuel injectors at 60,000 miles?
Don't pull and clean them. I would buy Lucas fuel injector cleaner and use that in your fuel. Works Great! Batteries are an interesting topic! Some batteries only last 3 years where I have had batteries last 10+ years. Once you hit the 8yr mark I would definitely look to replace it because it's end of life failure is imminent. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Good work! Keep going.@@hendersonequipment
No crush washer? No parking break during tire rotation / tightening lug nuts?
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Well done
Brake fluid test could've been done with a $5 brake fluid test pen. Visual test for level and color alone is insufficient.
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Are you going to do cvt fluid drain and fill or you wait until your car gets 100kmi?
Thanks for reaching out. Based on the condition I’ve seen from all the changes I’ve done I’m waiting 100k
My 2018 warranty was extended to 100000 or 10 years “Unless” someone opened its case!
Just a question on tire rotation: Are those tires directional? If not, why didn’t you put the rear tires on the diagonally opposite side on front instead of keeping them on the same side?
Thanks for the comment. Great question. If the tires are directional or sized differently then your stuck with just swapping left to right. If they are the same size then you can rotate in a few different fashions you can do front to rear straight and then x pattern cross them on the next one(that’s what I do) or you can front to rear cross them which is what most shops do. Hope this helps! 😁
I think it is better to read the manual. They state how exactly the wheels needs to be rotated
Not going to do the pcv valve? That's a gimme
Thanks
Cool so u moved the engine thanks for showing this. This job is a real pain in the ass.
I have vacuumed the air cleaner box, so no misc debris wentwhere it doesn't belong and replaced the crush washer on the drain plug.
Thanks for the advice!
I believe 60.000 miles also requires brake fluid flush, my 2020 does...
Yeah if the car was 15years old or if it sat a lot maybe I could see the brake flush but for the most part those are just a dealer sales gimic. Thanks for watching!
@@hendersonequipment wow, everyone and their mother suggests a brake flush every 2-3 years, you're saying 15?? Isn't that a little too long?? nothing in between?
Your video is well done!
Thanks so much for the positive comment!
Great guidelines until u said oh btw u have to move the engine up with this 2x4😅
Thanks for watching and the comment 😎
thanks for showing how to change two spark plugs.not a very good video on the rear two.saw a block of wood in your hand...
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I know 1 thing. Find a masochistic mechanic. Pay him to change the spark plugs.
You missed a bunch of maintenance items. Put a clean rag into the air intake hose BEFORE you blow out the air box. Some of the debris will go into the air intake hose when you blow it all over the place. Some engine manufacturers put a safety filter inside of the main filter to prevent this from happening. Never top off brake fluid. There are only 2 reasons the brake fluid should be low. There is a leak or the brake pads are wearing down. You can't keep track of how much wear the pads have if you top off the brake fluid. The brake fluid and antifreeze should also be changed. Changing the PCV valve in critical on newer Subaru engines. A plugged PCV valve will create pressure inside the crankcase. As others have mentioned, this will force oil leaks. The most likely place the oil will leak is the timing chain cover. It is a job that you want to avoid at all costs. If you look in the Owner's Manual, you will see a maintenance schedule and it will point out everything that you missed.
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Ngk....code??
Ngk 93501
4.4 qts not 5 qts.
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You didn't wait for the oil to FULLY DRAIN??😳 ......hmmmm...
Dont worry a leaving a few drops in it won’t make a difference
Change every 6 mo or 5000 miles. No worries. Check level monthly.
Crush washer needs to be replaced every oil change. Torque wrench on drain plug. You pay for knowledge not the job.
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