Ford Transit - Adding Amps To The CCP
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The Ford Transit has a CCP (Customer Connection Point) at the pedestal of the driver's seat, that gives access to 12V from the battery and alternator. Some versions of the Transit (like a Diesel engine) come with dual batteries or you can choose that option which give you access to three 12V connections with each max. 60 amps output. My basic version has only one battery and one connection point. This video shows you how to upgrade to the maximum 180 amps output. I use upgrade kit WPT-7471-BK2Z-14S411-A.
Go to cargovanconversion.com/projects for a complete and free guide and many similar projects.
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Important to point out that unless you add an additional battery (and perhaps a heavy duty alternator) you can’t get 180A from a single 70A battery with a 150A alternator for very long even if you add the extra CCP points. This seems to be the point of confusion for a lot of people, including myself initially.
Hi Van
good video - just what I needed to see -
dont have the ccp but am hooking to positive buss bar for Lifepo4 charger -
tested charger at 70 amps and worked OK - installing 100 amp fuse and 80 amp circuit breaker - using Calb 100 amp hour battery - hope it enough - Jay
Hi Jay:
The nice thing with Lithium is, that they charge much faster and don't need to be 'topped off'; with sufficient reserve power from the alternator, you should be able to recharge a 100 amp battery within an hour or two.
Van Williams
I did a 70 amp charge test with AC and headlights On and got a voltage drop to 12 volts at charger - Van has 150 amp alternator -
have you tested your house battery charging system yet ?
The problem is likely the capacity of the alternator; you have the standard 150 amp alternator. I have the optional 230 amp HD alternator, which probably is not optimal either for my setup.
You may have to replace the alternator, if you want to go this way. The best solution still may be a dual alternator setup, where the additional alternator is solely used for the 'house system'. See www.nationsstarteralternator.com/Dual-Alternator-Kit-for-Ford-Transit-Van-Gas-p/a2-0072-280xp.htm One caution however: Current price $1,699.95.
With regard to my setup: I have a lot of ideas about my electrical setup, but have nothing installed yet and can't test anything. I will start pulling the wires soon. Too much to do and too little time.
Van Williams
This video just raised more questions than answers.
Why fit the fuse?
What does this do?
Where is the power going?
Does it keep the battery charged better under load?
Does it charge the battery faster? If so, how and why??
Adding extra 60 amp outputs from the starter battery. By adding them through the fuse board they are monitored by the computer which will increase the alternator output accordingly.
@@syncrosimon regardless of how many connection you have one or three you get maximum 50amps output regulated by ford bms. I would love to find out how to by pass that but I guess this done to prevent damage to the starter battery.
@@897aa33 I think you would just wire the B2B’s straight to the battery terminals. We regularly get 80 to 90 amps from our two Renogy’s.
@@syncrosimon what year is your vehicle?
@@897aa33 64 plate. 460 Minibus.
Hi. So how many amps can you get on ccp point? I have done the same and maximum I can get out is 50 amps in total.
So on my 2009 2.2 t280 its seems all 3 points on the ccp are fused and ready to go. Can i connect all 3 together and charge a 3rd battery for use in rear cargo area.
Hey Van this video prompts me to ask if you think leisured batteries can be placed under both driver and passenger seats? And what was that battery you removed a secondary battery? FT also has one for starting engine under the hood im assuming? I haven’t really inspected the electrical as of yet. As a matter of fact I cant figure out how to turn OFF the stock cabin lights, if you have the slider open to work in the van the lights just stay on? Not in the manual either? 2017. Thanks for all you diy videos!
Hi Dani,
The US Ford Transit comes in several setups. Mine has a gas engine and only one flooded starting battery, diesels come with two AGM batteries.
My single battery is placed under the driver's seat. No batteries in the engine compartment. You may be able to place batteries under the passenger seat, but you have to deal with cables and perhaps with a swivel, if you install one. If you have solar, the controller (and other solar accessories) should be as close as possible to the batteries, so you have to account for that soace too. My house batteries will be in the back and I'll probably use the space under the passenger seat for a heater.
I don't like to work on Ford's internal electrical system, so I disconnected the plug and removed the central cabin lights where they meet the wall. I will remove the lights above the rear doors, but extend the existing wires to my own switched light in the rear ceiling amd at the side door. If you are interested in astronomy, you may consider installing red lights :)
Van Williams
Hey thanks! So I just ordered the parts and about to do this on my 2019. I had a 8 gauge link to my battery for the alternator to charge when solar isn't Anyway, its been working but isn't now, and believe this is it. My Question is....I'm not seeing how to install the fuses to get double? am I stacking the two 60A? putting one on each? Or are you just showing how to replace one? The wiring with my battery link comes with an inline 80amp.
Hi Austin,
First, I just show what I did; I'm not an expert and really consider someone that is, if you're unsure about what you're doing. Working with either 110V OR 12V can hurt you or worse.
The following is not a full list of issues that you may encounter. I had an upgrade to the alternator when I bought the Transit, I think from 175A to 235A. That excess should give me some room to play with. The fuse setup in a 2019 Transit is slightly different than my 2016 model. I had three 60A fuses that I inserted within the battery box under the driver's seat.
I access this 12V power from a small panel on the driver door side on the rear of the driver's seat pedestal. There I find three lugs, each corresponding with each of the three fuses. I can check each one of them, whether they are powered correctly with a multimeter.
At a short distance, I placed a qualified busbar, suitable for up to 180A (3x 60A). I use a wire from each of the three lugs to the busbar. Type of wire is important; I use welding wire. Gauge of the wire is super important. Rather oversize than undersize. I use this online voltage drop calculator: circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
Calculate the gauge for the distance between the lugs and the busbar.
You can connect one wire between the busbar and the device you're using. For safety I did also install immediately after the busbar, an appropriate fuse for the 180A and a ON/OFF switch, again with the correct Amp rating. Be sure the gauge of the 'main' wire is appropriate for the distance and the amperage.
This all said, I have updated my setup and have been using a DC-DC converter directly between the Lithium house battery bank and the alternator (connected to the same busbar as described above). Video: th-cam.com/video/Lo6PxnFrJV8/w-d-xo.html
Again, if you are unsure get professional advice.
Van Willams
I think the point of this mod is to get access to more amps from the alternator...with the car running....this allow you to add a larger inverter than the 400W one on the parking break. However, I’m not really sure
No. The ccp point is giving you 50 amps maximum. Regardless of you have one or 3 connections all you get 50 amps top. I love to find out how to by pass the restriction.
I am planning to add an auxiliary light on my 2020 Transit, I have been looking where to connect my wirings for it, as I found out, correct me if I'm wrong, that I could only connect it thru CCP, if I will do that, where I should connect my ground wire? Thanks for the video as I know now how to access the battery.
Go and check the Ford BEMM (Body&Equipment Mounting Manual) of your car. For my car there is an "Auxiliary Ground Stud for Converter Equipment" directly attached to to battery-attachment points, not far from the CCP. Also note that the BEMM states that "CCP cassette fixing studs are not to be used as grounding points"
How does the wire get in the fuse/battery space? You skipped that part.
A quick question: Does using the CCP mean that a battery isolator is not needed if I install a deep cycle/RV house battery? Or do I still need an isolator between the CCP and the house battery to avoid running down the starting battery? I don't plan on having solar, I just want to have the alternator charge the house battery. Thanks in advance.
Hi Watertank,
First, I'm not an expert at this, so please get a second opinion :)
An isolator avoids that the car battery is discharged, so that is always needed. I wouldn't use the CCP for this either.
I understand that you don't want to use solar. In general, I don't like to use the car system to charge the house batteries. I think there are issues when you connect different types of batteries together (lead-acid, AGM, Lithium), differently aged batteries, etc. If you use anything else than Lithium batteries for you house system, there is an charging issue. Lead-acid batteries, including AGM's are initially charged with a bulk charge and topped off slowly over a longer period. Using only the car's alternator, the house batteries tend to be charged only partially, but lead-acid's need a 100% charge every time, else they will deteriorate prematurely. Solar is a fairly ideal source for charging for that reason.
Lithium house batteries is just the opposite; they like a good charge until they're fully replenished. Actually, they should stay below 100% for longevity.
Hope that helps.
Van Williams
Thanks for the great response. Since I live and travel in a warm climate, I frequently seek shaded parking, which precludes having an effective solar system. Additionally, I do construction work part time, and need my van roof for hauling lumber, and rooftop solar panels might get damaged. For LED lighting in my van, with minimal phone/tablet charging, and a Fantastic or MaxxAir fan (no 12V cooler), what size lithium house battery do you recommend to keep me parked in the woods for 2-3 days at a time?
Hi Watertank,
Usually you should calculate your power usage by adding up the amperage of each device (x hours of use). This would establish daily usage in Amps, which will differ in summer compared to winter. With the devices you mentioned, only the vent is a major power consumer with 1A-4A x up to ~10 hours a day. Battery bank calculation is fairly simple; if your daily use is 20A and you have a 100Ah lead-acid battery which can be discharged up to 50%. You have effectively 100Ah x 50% = 50Ah. Divided by 20A is 2.5 days in storage capacity. The same calculation for a Lithium battery is: if your daily use is 20A and you have a 100Ah Lithium battery which can be discharged up to 80%. You have effectively 100Ah x 80% = 80Ah. Divided by 20A is 4 days in storage capacity. The tricky part is that these values can change widely during the year and dependent on your use.
I still want to respond on 'I frequently seek shaded parking, which precludes having an effective solar system'. I have three solar roof panels installed with a total of 405A, which should provide me with sufficient power to run my appliances. Yet for extended stays or with persistent inclement weather, I plan to carry one or more 'portable' flexible solar panels/solar blankets, which I lay out up to 25-50 feet from the van and connect through an extension cable to my solar system. It's not the same as having them permanently installed, but you might consider such an installation. th-cam.com/video/3VgUbhl9K24/w-d-xo.html
Van Williams
In modern cars the alternator is regulated in very "clever" ways. In 2020 Ford Transit there is some BMS which calculates current battery State of Charge. If it thinks your battery is full it will step down alternator to 12.5V regardless of what your house battery's state of charge is. So do yourself a favor and use a dc dc charging booster. These things will do all sorts of tricks like good external battery chargers do. Nevertheless it's still tricky to let these things only charge your house battery when the alternator realy is on. For this they have to distinguish between different input levels or do other trickts to detect of the alternator is currently running
Van- could you explain the reason for what you accomplished here? Do all transits have a CCP or is it an option at build time? Where are you ADDING amps. I'm missing something evidently.
The transit comes ready made for at least 3 high amperage (Ford states 60 each) outputs. On the models with twin batteries this feed comes from that. By adding extra fuses in the housing you increase the number of 60 amp outputs from 1 to 3. I have 2 x 60 amp for two buck chargers and a 20amp one for a small ATV winch.
After you add 60 amp CCP, is it hot all time without shut down after 40 minutes?
Yes John. It is a direct connection to the battery.
Apologies for the last response.
Van Williams
My 2020 only has the single side 60amp post, is there a kit to add the 2nd post for 175 amps?
The interesting question: is adding the 175amps CCP2 Fuse to a 2020 model just the same as adding additional 60amps fuses to the pre 2020 models. Or does this "different kit" bring something else? BEMM states: "Most vehicles with single battery will not have CCP2. Only those vehicles with twin batteries or certain SVO options with will have CCP2, check with your local Ford dealer for details. If CCP2 is required then order kit KU5T-14D089-B*."
@@barfoos100 no you will only get maximum 50 amps total regardless of number of connections.
Hi There, thanks for the video. I have a 2019 Transit, I wish to connect the battery to a Renogy 50 Amp MPPT/DC to DC charge controller and then to a 200 Amp auxiliary battery . The CCP is a little bit inscrutable to me, do I need it to hook up to an auxiliary battery or can I simply hook up directly to the car battery's terminals? Could you explain exactly what the CCP does? Thanks for any information!
Wondering the same thing
did you find out how to do it? We have exactly same situation 2019 ford transit and Renogy 50Amp DC-DC Mppt
@Craig E Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, now I get it too.
If anyone wants the Jumper Kit for 2019 and before, as well as the wire construct to attach to the three post and you inverter…just leave a message here. I’ll see you the number kit and the wire for $30….you will still need to get the 150A breaker.
Also this only works for 2019 and earlier ….2020 has a 60 amp (continuous) and a 175amp (ignition control) it requires a different kit to add the 175….
The interesting question: is adding the 175amps CCP2 Fuse to a 2020 model just the same as adding additional 60amps fuses to the pre 2020 models. Or does this "different kit" bring something else? BEMM states: "Most vehicles with single battery will not have CCP2. Only those vehicles with twin batteries or certain SVO options with will have CCP2, check with your local Ford dealer for details. If CCP2 is required then order kit KU5T-14D089-B*."
@@barfoos100 Apparently that new kit number…which must include the 2nd CCP post, is not real. I know its in the BEMM..but ford dealers don’t have that part.
Hi, would it not be simpler to just connect straight to the battery terminal with a terminal fuse and avoid ever running power through those INCREDIBLY hard to reach 60A fuses on the CCP?
From my understanding, the Transit electrical system has a battery monitoring circuit installed. Adding loads in the wrong places will give false diagnostics, this is why Ford has provided designated customer connection points. Agreed, in an awkward location!
You could to this, but only if you never ever draw current from the batterie but only from the alternator. otherwise the battery management system will be tricked, because you bypass its measuring shunt
@@barfoos100 I have run few tests and as far as I see you get maximum 40-50 amps output regardless where you get connected at ccp or starter battery. I would love to find out how to by pass that restriction but I guess its set by ford bms to prevent damage to starter battery.
What’s the kit number for 2020 going forward?
Go and check the Ford BEMM (Body&Equipment Mounting Manual) for your specific car. What kind of kit are you referring to?
@@barfoos100 In the 2020BEM there is a kit number that likely includes the second post for the 175A ignition controlled access. However, lots of people are saying that FORD dealers can’t get the part, even though its in the BEMM. It might be a misprint?
Wondering if someone knows what size nut fits on the CCP posts?
5mm
@@XPCTECH Or M8 depending on the year and the CCP.
Thanks for this. Curious why you don't narrate your videos. Cheers!
No judgement here. Just curious. That said, I wouldn't sweat an accent. Either way is obviously fine - I very much appreciate your efforts on your web site and TH-cam. I will be ordering a 2017 Extended Transit as soon as the 2017s are up on Ford's site. I'll do a conversion when it arrives in late 2016/early 2017. Looking forward to more videos! :-)
Hi. So how many amps can you get on ccp point? I have done the same and maximum I can get out is 50 amps in total.
Hi Paul,
lots of variables here. I assume you mean while engine is running; if not it depends on the status of your car battery or batteries. Otherwise the amperage of your alternator is a factor.
Also differences between the different years of the Transit. Min, a 2016 model, has three connection points on the side of the pedestal, each can be fitted with a 60A fuse, so theoretically, three times 60A = 180A max.
In that light, if you get 50A from one point, you don't have to worry.
I recently connected a Victron DC-DC converter to it; they have a 30A max per unit. One or two of these should work out with the 50A you have.
Hope that helps.
_Van Williams_
@@cargovanconversion Hi Van Williams. The three ccp points are connected to the same bus bar which links to plate marked at 100A. There is no way that bus bar /plate can handle 180a. The maximum ford allows towards the bus bar is 50a hence fused for 60a. I have connected 2 Victron Orions 30a each and all I am getting at the ccp point end is 50a.
@@897aa33 Hi Paul,
I bought my 2016 model with an optional heavy duty 235A alternator. There is no way to get the theoretical 180A out of that anyway.
It is more reasonable to assume that each of these three CCP points can service a device at max 50A, but certainly not more than ~90A (100A busbar) altogether. Don't think that even a heavy duty alternator can supply that much, while maintaining the needs of a running engine/van itself.
In your case, the same is true for the two DC-DC converters; their total 60A is probably a theoretical max as well, so if you don't plan to add other devices to the CCP, it's probably the best you can do.
Besides the heavy duty alternator, the best (and expensive) way to go, would be to install a second, separate alternator to charge a Lithium house battery bank directly, if that is your purpose.
_Van Williams_