I just watched your video on wiring multiple USB outlets... and I was able to _predict_ (ok, extrapolate) exactly what you would do here step-by-step as you went. I think that means I learned the thing! I watch tons of builder channel content but this is the first time I've felt compelled to subscribed to one. Thanks for all you're doing!
Nate and Steph, Can’t thank you enough for your very thoughtful videos. Sometimes I think well-intentioned instructional videos forget that a lot of us are extreme beginners, but with a brain. If we have the teachers with that mind set....we can soar!!!!!!!!!! 🤗
Excellent instructional video! As a mechanical engineer, electric stuff is not my strong point (got a D in electronics lab in college…). This video is so clear and detailed, I have confidence that I can add a couple 12v outlets to my trailer for my fridge. Thanks!
So glad I came across this series. I'm renovating a 2017 Class C but it's a very barebones RV so there's a big need for "modernizing" some of the systems.
I JUST FOUND YOUR CHANNEL WHILE SEARCHING FOR WIRING TIPS. THIS VIDEO WAS AWESOME AND DOWN TO EARTH, FOR WE THE UNTRAINED. IT MADE MY PROJECT EASY TO UNDERSTAND. THANKS FOR SHARING, AS I LIKED AND SUBBED YOUR CHANNEL...
Myself I just went with installing 12v sockets and then plug in a USB adaptor to them when needed. Saves a lot of extra wiring, plugins and a few bucks.
This series is GOLD. I'm planning a Ford Transit built for the fall and plan to follow this built VERBATIM! I REALLY appreciate how thorough each explanation is as well as the fact that each video is in chronological order, so we can see what steps you guys are taking in order!
Thanks guys The best informative videos for DIY Van electrical installations! 👍 I will be getting my electric components & supplies from you when I get to the electric stage of my van buildout!
Been binging on your content for months prepping as i build out my Skoolie. Was wondering if you could do a video on Solar extension cables. In the case of solar arrays that cannot have panels all laying in the same orientation due to limited square footage. You guys are Heroes
Just LOVE what You & Steph do ! By Far, my Most Referred resource (many times daily on FB and Forums). 🥰 If you’ve covered it, any quick mention will suffice: in strings of LEDs, be it ‘rope’ or individual (3, 5, 8, 10mm) bulbs, there is a visible ‘decrease’ in illumination on a string (sometimes). What do you think about powering (In) on both ends to reduce/eliminate ? If affirmed, would each ‘end’ of 12V feed be a separate circuit ? Regarding the lever wire block, is there a specific reason that you prefer that (additional) ‘break’ in the circuit wire, as opposed to just an uninterrupted (wire) from panel to item location ? I REALLY Appreciate you two !
Hey Nate & Steph, Another great tutorial. Very clear information; and, the wiring how-tos really make sense when you use the tabletop demo approach. Thank you! Looking forward to the light wiring video and hope it includes some mention of how to wire a dimmer w/ a built-in on-off switch (red, white, black wires) with a SPDT and out to the puck lights. Cheers.
On my 12VDC collections I've used Two Conductor Rip Cord designating the Side with the Ridges as Negative. I purchased two Blue Sea 12 VDC hubs that has a cigarette lighter and the USB and a master on/off switch as the main oval connectors. I also purchased OEM Ford Transit Cargo Bay Lights to illuminate the main part of the back section (as holes exist for them already) but wired them to the house power system. I'm using the same Rip Cord. The thing about these modules is they're supposedly LED, but they function in either direction in terms of polarity. I am guessing that they have some kind of a bridge rectifier in them(?). I have designated the terminal closest to the screw on the back of the lamp module as "Negative," whether that's true or not. I did my initial test on the light fixtures and the 12 volt outlet modules using a 9-volt Battery which was strong enough for test purposes.
*Check out the full electrical installation tutorial for this build:* th-cam.com/video/E5q7_4FH4LQ/w-d-xo.html Want to see these 12V Outlets actually installed in the walls? We covered that in this video: th-cam.com/video/cf2BjQxMKDI/w-d-xo.html
Awesome video. As someone who’s new to all this lever nuts are a great alternative to soldering. Just one question, if I wanted to install a switch so that I could turn the 12v circuit off to not drain the battery, where would I install this? Between the batter and fuse block on the negative wire?
So great video but total electric noob and I've got a question about outlets. I get that 110v outlets are for things like a mixer or blender and you have to have your inverter on what you use them. I was assuming that the 12v outlets were for charging phone or the like but then you said that you have USB outlets. Do the USB outlets run on 12v or 110v? And assuming 12v can they run on the same circuit as the 12v outlets? And if not why not?
Like all of your videos, excellent. What is the reasoning for using a Lever Nut if you are only connecting one outlet to the fuse box? I understand if in series, but with only one, can't it go direct without a LeverNut?
Thank you for these videos, they’re great. I have a question though. I want to use a Bluetti EB240 to run everything in my conversion. How would I attach the fuse box to the Bluetti? I’ve seen people do this but no one has really explained (or likely I just haven’t found the right videos yet) how to connect the 12v fuse box to the Bluetti
Since our circuit was less than 10ft from fuse box to outlet, we could use 14AWG. Please see the 12V branch circuit guidebook or the wiring kit for different length options: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/branch-circuit-wiring-kits/12v-usb-outlet-branch-circuit-wiring-kit/
When the length of the circuit you are wiring dictates a heavier gauge wire than the wire the device comes with, does the smaller wire on the device create a risk? (E.g. a light that comes with 16ga wire on a circuit that calls for 12ga wire).
Thank you, as always great work! I am in the process of using one of your plans that I bought to install a 2000-watt 200AMP lithium/solar / dc-dc rewire of the whole popup camper. For this add-on, I have seen several installs where they use 10amp inline fuses at the positive side of the 12-volt receptacle, but you did not do it nor mention it. Is adding the inline fuse at each plug over-kill in your opinion?
What is the benefit to using lever nuts when you are running a single 12v device circuit in comparison to just a running straight wire from the fuse block to the device? Thanks!
Flexibility, mainly. Going direct leaves no room for expansion, further wire management, test probing for voltage during troubleshooting and stuff like that.
Hey Nate, I was just wanting to ask. If you were just connecting one outlet and not a series of multiple, would you be able to connect the wire from the fuse box directly to the outlet?
If you are only connecting one device, in this case the DC receptacle, why are Lever Nuts needed? Can you not just go direct between the bus bar and the device?
They are no more unsafe than an extension cord. As long as it's sized appropriately for the load, it is a high quality component, and the connections are all secure, the chances of problems are very minimal.
My mulitmeter says that I have 12.2 V coming out of the end of the spade connectors, but when I add the outlet it dops to 4.8 V. Any idea what I am doing wrong?
Thanks for all the great info! Just have a quick question. Do wire splices with wago nuts need to be in some sort of j box? Or are they ok left loose? Running circuits that don’t always end at a fixture. Thanks!
Hi Nate & Steph! Thanks for this videos, they are SO HELPFUL!!! What size wire loom did you use in the van? Did you use it anytime that wires went into metal or structural supports? Can you explain a little on how you actually installed the wires? Did you put all of the wires into the loom and then feed the entire bundle through? Is there room (is it easy/possible) to add more wires to the loom after the fact? Something else? Do you have any tips (or tools) on feeding the wires through the supports? Really, thank you so much. This is a practical tip that might be obvious or easy for some but I'm trying to wrap my head around. I super appreciate your insights!
We will try to cover all of that in our wiring wrap up video. The best thing I can recommend is to just buy some loom and play around with it. There's not much of a right or wrong way to do it.
Hi Nate and Steph. Great series of videos!! Do you use a switch on the internal panel for the USB /12V socket circuit, (Like the one shown in the diagram of the water pump) or only the main power switch turns off this circuit? :)
Great timing and video!!! I have an exterior metal rv light that has pos and neg wires run back to the fuse panel, would it ground only through the wire or also through the mounting screws? It works great in hand, but once I touch the metal siding it sparks and blows the fuse.
This may be a silly question but if I have an AC appliance with a wall wart does that mean I must get an inverter/charger? When I did your power audit I put two iPhones and a MacBook in single charge items and our automatic litter box (has wall wart with input/output values) into Table 1.2 with 110v appliances. With these items I got "0 Watts" for inverter size in the minimum recommended components. We would like to have the ability to charge our batteries via shore power so what does this mean for our inverter/charger sizing?
If those are your biggest loads, you'd be fine with something like a Multiplus 2k Inverter/Charger: www.explorist.life/2000w-inverter-200-400ah-lithium-200-to-700w-solar-camper-wiring-diagram/
Hi Nate & Steph. Off this topic I’m affraid however great video! but I hope you can help. What is your take on using 2 banks of 4X 280aH 3.25V lifepo4 cells in parallel as solar storage. There are so many batteries on the market that you don’t know what is actually inside them without spending a fortune….
When I was offering personal consulting, for a while, 90% of the people paying to talk to me were there because they bought all of these raw cells and couldn't get them to work. Over time, some of them would have been better off, financially, just to pay for a high quality off-the-shelf functional battery like Battle Born. Raw cells may be fun to tinker with, but I'm pretty much never going to recommend it outside of 'hobby tinkering' as the customer support, warranty, and QC just isn't there (which is part of the reason they are so cheap).
@@EXPLORISTlife great advice. And thank you for responding. Love the videos and the work you do. It’s difficult to get battle born batteries in Spain however I appreciate your response. 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Question for you! To simplify wire sizes throughout the van, can we use 12 AWG wire for everything DC? It might be overkill, but is there any risk with it?
You can indeed consolidate like that, but I still recommend using my wire sizing calculator to verify that everything is still good to go from a voltage drop and max ampacity standpoint.
Hey Nate and Steph!! The videos are really informative as we’re in the process of converting our VW Crafter van here in Australia. My question is about wire sizing as here we use millimeters squared are the 10, 12 and 14 AWg the same as our 6, 4 and 2.5mm squared cables. Also what are the advantages to having 12v outlets? Cheers William
@@jdcoverland365 Hi, thanks for your response. I’ve ordered some twin core 4mm cable that is rated at 20amps from a local auto electrics supplier and connectors as well. I’m interested in what kind of diesel heater you have and how it can be connected to a usb outlet. Cheers
Hey Nate, commented on your solar video on a question about your solar PV wire you have on your site. But I haven't heard back, probably cause it's an old video. But I'm looking to get some PV wire from your site. But I need to know the outter diameter for the conduit for a specific install. Do you know what it is?
Why do you not connect directly when only wiring for one outlet. And… if you think yo may expand later, is there any reason you couldn’t use a 3 wire connector for a single outlet, or does it need to be a double?
Flexibility, mainly. Going direct leaves no room for expansion, further wire management, test probing for voltage during troubleshooting and stuff like that.
@@chachi5975 true, but in overlanding/offroading the movement and motion can sometimes jar the connection points resulting in intermittent or broken connections with plugs. I and others have learned this the hard way.
We will be using powerpole connections later in the build. I don't suspect anything will ever be permanently connected to this outlet, so it should be fine. Regardless... People want tutorials over this particular thing, so this video is covering how to do it.
Are these cigarette lighter sockets? what for? for usb, i'd rather just install usb ports. these cigarette lighters, aren't they antiquated and cumbersome? we don't use cigarette lighters any more, i hope we don't smoke. are there any better/smaller 12V sockets?
I’ve been watching a lot of videos about USB ports, and 12V outlets…. And I got a couple from Amazon but they came pre wire. Pos 16 awg Neg 18 awg is that ok? I thought it was supposed to be the same AWG?…. And now I’m all confused which wire to use to attach to connect it to the fuse box….. the other one has P&N 22 awg…. Can I attach a 14 awg? Is mainly to charge phones, portable speaker… things like that. This things got me all messed up 😅😅😅 can anybody help me?
Feel free to use whatever you like but blade fuses are perfectly appropriate for this application and are also used in literally every vehicle on the road today and are appropriate for what I'm showing in this video.
So why not solder heat shrink type of joint instead of the lever nut? You did use it to stretch the Spade connector? I'm here for the physics lessons in electricity and possible future RV build. Your work is simply tidy and easy to understand, beautifully arranged and pleasing to the eyes! Keep up the great work
They are quick and re-usable so the replacement of a fixture at a later date (or future wire management) is trivial and they have a port for inserting a meter probe for voltage checks. Soldering, doubling up on butt splices, step down butt splices, cap splices, or Scotchlocks do not offer these advantages.
Yep! You just can't use more power than the whole circuit is fused at, similar to how you can use multiple outlets all on the same circuit at your house; but if you plug a space heater into each one; it'll trip the breaker.
Sounds like a poor crimp, undersized wire, or other generally poor connection. Soldering the connection will create a weak point where the wire goes from stranded to soldered and will break over time as the vehicles vibrates down the road.
You'll want to take a measurement for your own runs and then either use the 12V Branch Circuit Guidebook to figure that out or buy our kit for the appropriate length, which will come with the correct gauge: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/branch-circuit-wiring-kits/ I hesitate to tell you the length WE used in fear that somebody with a 40ft run would try to use the same gauge of wire we used for a, say, 10ft run.
Why overload the circuit with two additional receptacles for the same size fuse? Why not individual circuits for each? Aren't you setting yourself up for a catastrophic failure instead of providing a back-up available upon a single fuse failure? Ah, puck lights. My next project too. Here I can see series with a single fuse. Will we see a dimmer too?
We haven't 'Overloaded' anything. Our outlets are rated for 15A, as is our wire, which is what the fuse size is; so everything is perfectly sized. These outlets will be used for small loads like Drone chargers, computer chargers, and stuff like that, so it's perfectly fine to spread all of that stuff out along the same circuit given the total amperage load doesn't exceed 15 (but if it does, the fuse would simply blow). This is similar to in your house, all of the 120V outlets around your bedroom are on the same circuit as the loads are generally smalller per outlet. If you tried to plug a 1500W space heater into every outlet around your bedroom, the breaker would trip. This is the same concept. If we had a 12V load we would regularly be using that was close to 15A; it would absolutely get it's own circuit.
I tried reading through the comments to find this answer (as well as searched google for literally hours). What specific reason would you have for installing 12v outlets into your campervan? Other than the fridge (potentially)?
That's also an option if that's what you prefer. They just can't be used when you may have 3 conductors coming off the same junction behind the outlet like you can with lever nuts.
I just watched your video on wiring multiple USB outlets... and I was able to _predict_ (ok, extrapolate) exactly what you would do here step-by-step as you went. I think that means I learned the thing! I watch tons of builder channel content but this is the first time I've felt compelled to subscribed to one. Thanks for all you're doing!
Thanks for the explanation around minute 15:55 about why you guys used lever nuts for this wiring in the first place!
Nate and Steph,
Can’t thank you enough for your very thoughtful videos. Sometimes I think well-intentioned instructional videos forget that a lot of us are extreme beginners, but with a brain. If we have the teachers with that mind set....we can soar!!!!!!!!!! 🤗
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
This, this, this.
what size fuse did u use ?
Excellent instructional video! As a mechanical engineer, electric stuff is not my strong point (got a D in electronics lab in college…). This video is so clear and detailed, I have confidence that I can add a couple 12v outlets to my trailer for my fridge. Thanks!
So glad I came across this series. I'm renovating a 2017 Class C but it's a very barebones RV so there's a big need for "modernizing" some of the systems.
Thanks a lot. Simple, step by step instructions are the best ones.
I JUST FOUND YOUR CHANNEL WHILE SEARCHING FOR WIRING TIPS. THIS VIDEO WAS AWESOME AND DOWN TO EARTH, FOR WE THE UNTRAINED. IT MADE MY PROJECT EASY TO UNDERSTAND. THANKS FOR SHARING, AS I LIKED AND SUBBED YOUR CHANNEL...
Hey @FYRSTWAFFEN, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Myself I just went with installing 12v sockets and then plug in a USB adaptor to them when needed. Saves a lot of extra wiring, plugins and a few bucks.
I also use a P-touch I picked up from the thrift store! They are great for labeling cables. TY for the vid. My favorite HowTo channel.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Hi Nate & Steph, I totally agree with Elizabeth Golding comment and you make everything so clear to us. Thanks for sharing.
No problem. Happy to help!
This series is GOLD. I'm planning a Ford Transit built for the fall and plan to follow this built VERBATIM! I REALLY appreciate how thorough each explanation is as well as the fact that each video is in chronological order, so we can see what steps you guys are taking in order!
Thank you, and as usual, great explanations and directions. I'm right at this stage, so much appreciated.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Excellent tutorial! This has helped me understand how it all works so I can figure out the wire nest in my bus. You’re great instructors! Thanks 🚐✨⚡️💫
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Nate and Steph thank you for giving us these videos, they are very helpful.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
If I use a 12V outlet that’s pre-wired with a fuse, would I still need to add a fuse to the fuse block? Thank you for the super helpful videos!
Thanks guys
The best informative videos for DIY Van electrical installations! 👍
I will be getting my electric components & supplies from you when I get to the electric stage of my van buildout!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
You are both great teacher 👍👍👍👍
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
@@EXPLORISTlifeof course it’s helpful. We are waiting for our 2022 AWD Ford Transit.
This is exactly what I needed to see thank you, outstanding video
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Are lever nuts a personal preference instead of piggyback fittings? Lever nuts look easy and simple to work with.
Been binging on your content for months prepping as i build out my Skoolie. Was wondering if you could do a video on Solar extension cables. In the case of solar arrays that cannot have panels all laying in the same orientation due to limited square footage. You guys are Heroes
Just LOVE what You & Steph do ! By Far, my Most Referred resource (many times daily on FB and Forums). 🥰
If you’ve covered it, any quick mention will suffice: in strings of LEDs, be it ‘rope’ or individual (3, 5, 8, 10mm) bulbs, there is a visible ‘decrease’ in illumination on a string (sometimes). What do you think about powering (In) on both ends to reduce/eliminate ? If affirmed, would each ‘end’ of 12V feed be a separate circuit ?
Regarding the lever wire block, is there a specific reason that you prefer that (additional) ‘break’ in the circuit wire, as opposed to just an uninterrupted (wire) from panel to item location ?
I REALLY Appreciate you two !
Hey Nate & Steph,
Another great tutorial. Very clear information; and, the wiring how-tos really make sense when you use the tabletop demo approach. Thank you!
Looking forward to the light wiring video and hope it includes some mention of how to wire a dimmer w/ a built-in on-off switch (red, white, black wires) with a SPDT and out to the puck lights. Cheers.
Hey Mary, Thanks so much for watching! Cheers!
Awesome video guys…. I say hello from Venezuela 🇻🇪….. one question what size of fuse you used in this video ??
On my 12VDC collections I've used Two Conductor Rip Cord designating the Side with the Ridges as Negative.
I purchased two Blue Sea 12 VDC hubs that has a cigarette lighter and the USB and a master on/off switch as the main oval connectors.
I also purchased OEM Ford Transit Cargo Bay Lights to illuminate the main part of the back section (as holes exist for them already) but wired them to the house power system.
I'm using the same Rip Cord. The thing about these modules is they're supposedly LED, but they function in either direction in terms of polarity. I am guessing that they have some kind of a bridge rectifier in them(?). I have designated the terminal closest to the screw on the back of the lamp module as "Negative," whether that's true or not.
I did my initial test on the light fixtures and the 12 volt outlet modules using a 9-volt Battery which was strong enough for test purposes.
Neat! Sounds like a cool project.
Do you have any videos on how to hook up a multi port rocker switch panel?
*Check out the full electrical installation tutorial for this build:* th-cam.com/video/E5q7_4FH4LQ/w-d-xo.html
Want to see these 12V Outlets actually installed in the walls? We covered that in this video: th-cam.com/video/cf2BjQxMKDI/w-d-xo.html
Awesome video. As someone who’s new to all this lever nuts are a great alternative to soldering. Just one question, if I wanted to install a switch so that I could turn the 12v circuit off to not drain the battery, where would I install this? Between the batter and fuse block on the negative wire?
Great video!
Hey DMWI, Thanks so much! Cheers!
So great video but total electric noob and I've got a question about outlets. I get that 110v outlets are for things like a mixer or blender and you have to have your inverter on what you use them. I was assuming that the 12v outlets were for charging phone or the like but then you said that you have USB outlets. Do the USB outlets run on 12v or 110v? And assuming 12v can they run on the same circuit as the 12v outlets? And if not why not?
Like all of your videos, excellent. What is the reasoning for using a Lever Nut if you are only connecting one outlet to the fuse box? I understand if in series, but with only one, can't it go direct without a LeverNut?
Flexibility mainly.
is there a video where you talk about the anderson ports you have in a later video?
Very helpful tank’s 👍
Thank you for these videos, they’re great. I have a question though. I want to use a Bluetti EB240 to run everything in my conversion. How would I attach the fuse box to the Bluetti? I’ve seen people do this but no one has really explained (or likely I just haven’t found the right videos yet) how to connect the 12v fuse box to the Bluetti
Are you using 12 gauge wire for those power sockets? Thank you for the videos they are a tremendous help.
Since our circuit was less than 10ft from fuse box to outlet, we could use 14AWG. Please see the 12V branch circuit guidebook or the wiring kit for different length options: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/branch-circuit-wiring-kits/12v-usb-outlet-branch-circuit-wiring-kit/
When the length of the circuit you are wiring dictates a heavier gauge wire than the wire the device comes with, does the smaller wire on the device create a risk? (E.g. a light that comes with 16ga wire on a circuit that calls for 12ga wire).
The circuit must be fused for the smallest wire in the system. Larger wire is 'usually' needed for voltage drop and not ampactiy.
Thank you, as always great work! I am in the process of using one of your plans that I bought to install a 2000-watt 200AMP lithium/solar / dc-dc rewire of the whole popup camper. For this add-on, I have seen several installs where they use 10amp inline fuses at the positive side of the 12-volt receptacle, but you did not do it nor mention it. Is adding the inline fuse at each plug over-kill in your opinion?
It's fused at the fuse box. Additional fusing at the outlet isn't necessary.
What is the benefit to using lever nuts when you are running a single 12v device circuit in comparison to just a running straight wire from the fuse block to the device? Thanks!
Flexibility, mainly. Going direct leaves no room for expansion, further wire management, test probing for voltage during troubleshooting and stuff like that.
@@EXPLORISTlife but isn’t just making more chances of points of failure?
Yes I don't see point of mid connection, more chance of faults in future
Hey Nate, I was just wanting to ask. If you were just connecting one outlet and not a series of multiple, would you be able to connect the wire from the fuse box directly to the outlet?
Sure!
If you are only connecting one device, in this case the DC receptacle, why are Lever Nuts needed? Can you not just go direct between the bus bar and the device?
sorry. you already replied.
Great video only thing missing is a solid state relay 👍
Not needed for this particular circuit. 👍
Oh ok Won’t you get battery drain without it these usb are basically always on without a relay I was told
@@EXPLORISTlife sorry it’s not usb just seen 👍
I've heard that cigarette lighter sockets aren't safe...constantly melting plugs and overheating. Thoughts?
They are no more unsafe than an extension cord. As long as it's sized appropriately for the load, it is a high quality component, and the connections are all secure, the chances of problems are very minimal.
My mulitmeter says that I have 12.2 V coming out of the end of the spade connectors, but when I add the outlet it dops to 4.8 V. Any idea what I am doing wrong?
Maybe I missed it - but why do you use a Lever Nut and not connect it directly to the fuse box?
Replying to myself :) Lever Nut offer flexibility in regards to where you want to put the power in the van. Thanks :)
Thanks for all the great info! Just have a quick question. Do wire splices with wago nuts need to be in some sort of j box? Or are they ok left loose? Running circuits that don’t always end at a fixture. Thanks!
Low voltage (12V DC) doesn't need a J box
Hi Nate & Steph! Thanks for this videos, they are SO HELPFUL!!! What size wire loom did you use in the van? Did you use it anytime that wires went into metal or structural supports? Can you explain a little on how you actually installed the wires? Did you put all of the wires into the loom and then feed the entire bundle through? Is there room (is it easy/possible) to add more wires to the loom after the fact? Something else? Do you have any tips (or tools) on feeding the wires through the supports? Really, thank you so much. This is a practical tip that might be obvious or easy for some but I'm trying to wrap my head around. I super appreciate your insights!
We will try to cover all of that in our wiring wrap up video. The best thing I can recommend is to just buy some loom and play around with it. There's not much of a right or wrong way to do it.
I feel like I am attending a class and paying attentively 😁
Hi Nate, what is the black material you use as a "backer board" that I see you mount various components to (charge controller etc)? Thanks.
Do lever-nut junctions need to be put in a junction box... even inside of an insulated wall?
Not for low voltage (12V).
What gauge wire do you recommend??
what do u mean by checking for insulation in the lever nuts?
Just make sure there is no insulation interfering with the electrical connection inside of the lever nut.
have you released the wiring puck light video yet?
Glad you're excited about that one! It's coming out this Sunday morning (5/22/2022) at 5AM MST
Hi Nate and Steph. Great series of videos!!
Do you use a switch on the internal panel for the USB /12V socket circuit, (Like the one shown in the diagram of the water pump) or only the main power switch turns off this circuit? :)
Great timing and video!!! I have an exterior metal rv light that has pos and neg wires run back to the fuse panel, would it ground only through the wire or also through the mounting screws? It works great in hand, but once I touch the metal siding it sparks and blows the fuse.
Glad it helped! Interesting! Sounds like a faulty light that probably needs to be replaced.
@@EXPLORISTlife thats what I’m thinking. It was a new light but I purchased another one. Hopefully It works 👍Thanks!!
This may be a silly question but if I have an AC appliance with a wall wart does that mean I must get an inverter/charger? When I did your power audit I put two iPhones and a MacBook in single charge items and our automatic litter box (has wall wart with input/output values) into Table 1.2 with 110v appliances. With these items I got "0 Watts" for inverter size in the minimum recommended components. We would like to have the ability to charge our batteries via shore power so what does this mean for our inverter/charger sizing?
If those are your biggest loads, you'd be fine with something like a Multiplus 2k Inverter/Charger: www.explorist.life/2000w-inverter-200-400ah-lithium-200-to-700w-solar-camper-wiring-diagram/
Hi Nate & Steph. Off this topic I’m affraid however great video!
but I hope you can help. What is your take on using 2 banks of 4X 280aH 3.25V lifepo4 cells in parallel as solar storage. There are so many batteries on the market that you don’t know what is actually inside them without spending a fortune….
When I was offering personal consulting, for a while, 90% of the people paying to talk to me were there because they bought all of these raw cells and couldn't get them to work. Over time, some of them would have been better off, financially, just to pay for a high quality off-the-shelf functional battery like Battle Born.
Raw cells may be fun to tinker with, but I'm pretty much never going to recommend it outside of 'hobby tinkering' as the customer support, warranty, and QC just isn't there (which is part of the reason they are so cheap).
@@EXPLORISTlife great advice. And thank you for responding. Love the videos and the work you do. It’s difficult to get battle born batteries in Spain however I appreciate your response. 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Wait! The short spade connectors are just for this example? Don’t you need to connect them to the actual wire in the van? I’m confused!
These are actually installed in the van, yes.
@@EXPLORISTlifeI figured it out! Yay! Thanks to you!
Question for you! To simplify wire sizes throughout the van, can we use 12 AWG wire for everything DC? It might be overkill, but is there any risk with it?
You can indeed consolidate like that, but I still recommend using my wire sizing calculator to verify that everything is still good to go from a voltage drop and max ampacity standpoint.
Hey Nate and Steph!! The videos are really informative as we’re in the process of converting our VW Crafter van here in Australia. My question is about wire sizing as here we use millimeters squared are the 10, 12 and 14 AWg the same as our 6, 4 and 2.5mm squared cables. Also what are the advantages to having 12v outlets?
Cheers William
@@jdcoverland365 Hi, thanks for your response. I’ve ordered some twin core 4mm cable that is rated at 20amps from a local auto electrics supplier and connectors as well.
I’m interested in what kind of diesel heater you have and how it can be connected to a usb outlet. Cheers
Nices work
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
What gauge wire are you using in the video?
do you have a diagram so I can wire my tiny shed on solar power
I have several diagrams available here that should at least get you pointed in the right direction: www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams
Hey Nate, commented on your solar video on a question about your solar PV wire you have on your site. But I haven't heard back, probably cause it's an old video. But I'm looking to get some PV wire from your site. But I need to know the outter diameter for the conduit for a specific install. Do you know what it is?
Our 10AWG solar wire is 1/4" in diameter on the outside of the insulation.
Why do you not connect directly when only wiring for one outlet. And… if you think yo may expand later, is there any reason you couldn’t use a 3 wire connector for a single outlet, or does it need to be a double?
Never mind, Steph answered it later in the video😅
Flexibility, mainly. Going direct leaves no room for expansion, further wire management, test probing for voltage during troubleshooting and stuff like that.
What size is cable battery to fuse buss
17:17 17:17 17:17 😊
No Powerwerx powerpole (Anderson) connector conversions given the limitations of typical 12v "cigarette" plug ports?
There's heavy duty 25amp cigarette outlets available which are ceramic lined instead of all plastic. Perhaps that's an option.
@@chachi5975 true, but in overlanding/offroading the movement and motion can sometimes jar the connection points resulting in intermittent or broken connections with plugs. I and others have learned this the hard way.
We will be using powerpole connections later in the build. I don't suspect anything will ever be permanently connected to this outlet, so it should be fine. Regardless... People want tutorials over this particular thing, so this video is covering how to do it.
Are these cigarette lighter sockets? what for? for usb, i'd rather just install usb ports. these cigarette lighters, aren't they antiquated and cumbersome? we don't use cigarette lighters any more, i hope we don't smoke. are there any better/smaller 12V sockets?
We have a paddleboard pump and a tire inflator that requires a cigarette lighter socket. 👍
I’ve been watching a lot of videos about USB ports, and 12V outlets…. And I got a couple from Amazon but they came pre wire. Pos 16 awg Neg 18 awg is that ok? I thought it was supposed to be the same AWG?…. And now I’m all confused which wire to use to attach to connect it to the fuse box….. the other one has P&N 22 awg…. Can I attach a 14 awg? Is mainly to charge phones, portable speaker… things like that. This things got me all messed up 😅😅😅 can anybody help me?
What do you use for labeling? I have been writing on masking tape... 😞
I don't remember the exact model off the top of my head, but it's something similar to this: amzn.to/3lemxJy
Use circuit breakers ! Fuses were declared old tech and unsafe from the "80s". All due respect. Cheers from Australia, for your great vids. :)
Feel free to use whatever you like but blade fuses are perfectly appropriate for this application and are also used in literally every vehicle on the road today and are appropriate for what I'm showing in this video.
Just a quick note if you are upgrading wiring on a camper or pop up, black is POSITIVE, white is Negative!!!
Definitely worth verifying with a multimeter before starting work because often black is negative and red is positive. Depends on the manufacturer.
So why not solder heat shrink type of joint instead of the lever nut?
You did use it to stretch the Spade connector?
I'm here for the physics lessons in electricity and possible future RV build. Your work is simply tidy and easy to understand, beautifully arranged and pleasing to the eyes! Keep up the great work
They are quick and re-usable so the replacement of a fixture at a later date (or future wire management) is trivial and they have a port for inserting a meter probe for voltage checks.
Soldering, doubling up on butt splices, step down butt splices, cap splices, or Scotchlocks do not offer these advantages.
Can I use all 3 outlets at the same time?? I think the answer is no.
Yep! You just can't use more power than the whole circuit is fused at, similar to how you can use multiple outlets all on the same circuit at your house; but if you plug a space heater into each one; it'll trip the breaker.
Only word of advice here, before doing ANY work on a fuse panel, do not have power hooked up.
Yeah if you get a shock 12 volt can do some serious damage
I used the set up in the truck and my 7 amp travel food warmer actually melted the spade connector.
So I soldered it instead……
Sounds like a poor crimp, undersized wire, or other generally poor connection. Soldering the connection will create a weak point where the wire goes from stranded to soldered and will break over time as the vehicles vibrates down the road.
@@EXPLORISTlife I only use Narva HDRV plugs and sockets in the truck now.....cheap sockets melt 12v plugs too
What gauge wires do you use for your 12v and USB plugs??
You'll want to take a measurement for your own runs and then either use the 12V Branch Circuit Guidebook to figure that out or buy our kit for the appropriate length, which will come with the correct gauge: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/branch-circuit-wiring-kits/
I hesitate to tell you the length WE used in fear that somebody with a 40ft run would try to use the same gauge of wire we used for a, say, 10ft run.
Why overload the circuit with two additional receptacles for the same size fuse? Why not individual circuits for each? Aren't you setting yourself up for a catastrophic failure instead of providing a back-up available upon a single fuse failure? Ah, puck lights. My next project too. Here I can see series with a single fuse. Will we see a dimmer too?
We haven't 'Overloaded' anything. Our outlets are rated for 15A, as is our wire, which is what the fuse size is; so everything is perfectly sized. These outlets will be used for small loads like Drone chargers, computer chargers, and stuff like that, so it's perfectly fine to spread all of that stuff out along the same circuit given the total amperage load doesn't exceed 15 (but if it does, the fuse would simply blow).
This is similar to in your house, all of the 120V outlets around your bedroom are on the same circuit as the loads are generally smalller per outlet. If you tried to plug a 1500W space heater into every outlet around your bedroom, the breaker would trip. This is the same concept.
If we had a 12V load we would regularly be using that was close to 15A; it would absolutely get it's own circuit.
I tried reading through the comments to find this answer (as well as searched google for literally hours).
What specific reason would you have for installing 12v outlets into your campervan?
Other than the fridge (potentially)?
USB adapters, air pumps, 12V electric blanket (I've heard), electric skateboard charger. All kinds of random stuff out there.
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks. I was worried i was entirely missing some part of my van build that was obvious to everyone else.
Why didn’t you just use piggy back spade connectors, would have been a much neater install?
That's also an option if that's what you prefer. They just can't be used when you may have 3 conductors coming off the same junction behind the outlet like you can with lever nuts.