I too had the damn P1320 code. The Infiniti I30 has almost 200,000 miles. In the old days it seems Infiniti did not think it was important to let you know which one is bad, just the 1320 code. . And since the OBT2 is not showing it I figured I'd replace all of them. I was NOT getting them at the dealer since they are something like $140 bucks EACH! A shame, is the car worth that much? I picked up 6 coil packs at Advanced auto parts. As I recall they were about $50 or $60 bucks each and the brand was Car Quest. I asked a few mechanics around that I know and they said that brand was ok. Also, I recomended you getting one of those socket wrench extensions WITH the swivel socket ATTACHED to it. It is a good timesaver! Anyway, I did the three on the firewall side and everything went together very well. The three by the radiator was another story. Should be easier, right? It really is, HOWEVER.... The Car Quest coil packs although went in fine I discovered the electrical plug would not snap on the coil pack as they did in the back. Seeme the fronts were made wrong. The transformer, where the plug attaches too was just a tad to long causing the plug not to click in. UGH.. I was gonna file them down but decided to return the three. the Manager got me three coil packs made by Hatachi. But they were more money but he matched the price of the car quest parts because of the trouble! I was worried about mixing brands but it has been almost a year now and NO issues! So the old girl is good for another 200,000 miles? lol
What a wonderful video! I have a 2000 infiniti I30. Same engine as yours. It pulls the P1320 code. Reset the computer and it keeps coming back. The engine runs smooth as silk!! NO misfire or anything. I changed the condenser with the infiniti part hoping it would cure the problem. Still pulls the code, UGH.. I have watched your GREAT video. It seems you are the only one talking about the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors!! MORE power to you. This must be where the fault lies since the engine runs great. Question, did you go with OEM or after market. These 3 sensors from infiniti are $100 for the camshaft sensor, $78 for one of the crankshaft sensors and $123 for the other crankshaft sensor. All MITSUBISHI. On ebay the china versions are like $15 bucks and $24 for both crankshaft sensors. Something tells me I should use the Infiniti OEM version. THANKS AGAIN!!!
I used Autozone Duralast sensors. They worked fine and are much cheaper but OEM parts typically last longer. I hope you get that pesky P1320 to go away! Here is a link to a reputable website for parts that has good prices and options: www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1999/infiniti/i30/engine_mechanical/crank_position_sensor.html
You offer really great information but the wind was unbearable and I couldn’t keep watching. Maybe you can try to play with the sound mix so we can hear you better
my 2001 i30 is getting a p1320 code with tcs off and slip illuminated. would you say to check ignition coils before checking condenser and crankshaft sensors?
The P1320 is a very generic code for " ignition circuit malfunction" it just doesn't give detailed information. The problem could be in the crankshaft or camshaft position sensors, however, if your ignition coils are very old or high mileage they could be the cause. If two or more ignition coils have resistance out of spec the ECU will pop code P1320. Also a warning.... some cheap auto parts store coils will be just enough out of spec brand new to cause the ECU to think something is wrong. I have also found out that many 2000+ model year Nissan V6 engines require you to replace all six ignition coils at the same time to make the ECU happy with its resistance check. It can be big $.
@@rollingreasy2521 you are awesome man! one of my ignition coils looks a little beat up, going with a hitachi oem replacement. i was always under the impression that a crankshaft sensor would cause a no start. but i think cam and crankshaft sensors are next if the code doesn’t stay gone after replacing the coil. will be following this video to troubleshoot thanks!
Oh my gosh.. I could’ve used this 5 yrs ago but am still so grateful to see this now
I too had the damn P1320 code. The Infiniti I30 has almost 200,000 miles. In the old days it seems Infiniti did not think it was important to let you know which one is bad, just the 1320 code. . And since the OBT2 is not showing it I figured I'd replace all of them. I was NOT getting them at the dealer since they are something like $140 bucks EACH! A shame, is the car worth that much? I picked up 6 coil packs at Advanced auto parts. As I recall they were about $50 or $60 bucks each and the brand was Car Quest. I asked a few mechanics around that I know and they said that brand was ok. Also, I recomended you getting one of those socket wrench extensions WITH the swivel socket ATTACHED to it. It is a good timesaver! Anyway, I did the three on the firewall side and everything went together very well. The three by the radiator was another story. Should be easier, right? It really is, HOWEVER.... The Car Quest coil packs although went in fine I discovered the electrical plug would not snap on the coil pack as they did in the back. Seeme the fronts were made wrong. The transformer, where the plug attaches too was just a tad to long causing the plug not to click in. UGH.. I was gonna file them down but decided to return the three. the Manager got me three coil packs made by Hatachi. But they were more money but he matched the price of the car quest parts because of the trouble! I was worried about mixing brands but it has been almost a year now and NO issues! So the old girl is good for another 200,000 miles? lol
I'm glade it worked out. These old Nissan V6's can be finicky with ignition parts.
What a wonderful video! I have a 2000 infiniti I30. Same engine as yours. It pulls the P1320 code. Reset the computer and it keeps coming back. The engine runs smooth as silk!! NO misfire or anything. I changed the condenser with the infiniti part hoping it would cure the problem. Still pulls the code, UGH.. I have watched your GREAT video. It seems you are the only one talking about the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors!! MORE power to you. This must be where the fault lies since the engine runs great. Question, did you go with OEM or after market. These 3 sensors from infiniti are $100 for the camshaft sensor, $78 for one of the crankshaft sensors and $123 for the other crankshaft sensor. All MITSUBISHI. On ebay the china versions are like $15 bucks and $24 for both crankshaft sensors. Something tells me I should use the Infiniti OEM version. THANKS AGAIN!!!
I used Autozone Duralast sensors. They worked fine and are much cheaper but OEM parts typically last longer. I hope you get that pesky P1320 to go away!
Here is a link to a reputable website for parts that has good prices and options: www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1999/infiniti/i30/engine_mechanical/crank_position_sensor.html
@@rollingreasy2521 OK GREAT! Thanks!! I'll let you know how I make out!!
What would the ohm range be on the Hitachi?
Hey great video. Where do you find the standard information for sensors
The kohm
my 98 maxima won t crank because of the crankcase position sensor .thanks but from the top of the ehgin how to getto location of it?
You offer really great information but the wind was unbearable and I couldn’t keep watching. Maybe you can try to play with the sound mix so we can hear you better
my 2001 i30 is getting a p1320 code with tcs off and slip illuminated. would you say to check ignition coils before checking condenser and crankshaft sensors?
The P1320 is a very generic code for " ignition circuit malfunction" it just doesn't give detailed information. The problem could be in the crankshaft or camshaft position sensors, however, if your ignition coils are very old or high mileage they could be the cause. If two or more ignition coils have resistance out of spec the ECU will pop code P1320. Also a warning.... some cheap auto parts store coils will be just enough out of spec brand new to cause the ECU to think something is wrong. I have also found out that many 2000+ model year Nissan V6 engines require you to replace all six ignition coils at the same time to make the ECU happy with its resistance check. It can be big $.
@@rollingreasy2521 you are awesome man! one of my ignition coils looks a little beat up, going with a hitachi oem replacement.
i was always under the impression that a crankshaft sensor would cause a no start. but i think cam and crankshaft sensors are next if the code doesn’t stay gone after replacing the coil. will be following this video to troubleshoot thanks!
how did you use a ob2 reader i cant seem to get mine to connect to it?
YOU NEED A 14PIN ADAPTER
@@AAAUTOMOTIVEREPAIRINC i actually used a 14 pin adapter but its just not connecting. it isnt reading anything
It depends what kind of reader you have, mine is a Topdon and it gives me the option to scan via a 14 pin connector@@williambingham3222