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Nice job standing so far away that I could see anything and didn’t learn anything from this vif

Great job. My first time learning this and having a luxury car. The other guys video on here only showed changing the front. This one shows it all with the right tool describtion.

Ty learned a few things

@rollin’ greasy what code did you have for that blow off valve hose being cooked? This may solve my issue.

Thanks for uploading this, my alternator isn’t charging after my positive cable came loose and i put it back on while the engine is running, the fuse doesn’t seem to be bad but do you think it’s still worth throwing the part at it

Hey great video. Where do you find the standard information for sensors

my 98 maxima won t crank because of the crankcase position sensor .thanks but from the top of the ehgin how to getto location of it?

Thanks. Good job.

Hello sorry to disturb u. I have a maxima 98. I need to change the same oxigen sensor but the one i bought has 4 wires and the plug its diferent than the old one. Im sure is the same because is the only that comes with the rubber connection to put under the seat to seal it. The old has only 3 wires and plug diferent. Im not sure if someone before me, changed the plugs. What can i do? Or what should i do. Please help

IT was crack near the socket .The heat sink less thanthe other side.But no one thinking to move .THE DIC.unit higher 10 to 15mm.high from engine cover.by used TEFLON insulator.SO the DIC. unit not touch the engine cover So the DIC.case not so hot.TRY to do condition...

I loosened all the bolts but the belt just won’t come loose. Am I doing something wrong?

Trying to replace just the drivers side slider. Any suggestions? I have yet to finish watching your video...

I have a '96 Plymouth ACR sedan that was raced in the Neon Challenge. It's got only 5,365 miles on the clock

Cool. Thanks for making a video about your Neon. This is my first time seeing the factory cage. I would say the R/T head and factory tune is a bit more fun to run through the RPM range compared to the standard SOHC engine. I was surprised to see the floor insulation in tact until you mentioned the interior replacement. My Neons have been like the AK of the car world, the vibrations and rattles keep it interesting lol.

Just did both belts on my 96 Max-- Wow, what a PITA!!! However, It will be easier next time. I did not expect it to be so tedious. FYI the big belt is easy, the smaller P/S (belt/adj bolt) does take forever to loosen, the lock bolt is nearly impossible to reach and the adjuster bolt threads are reversed... smh

my 2001 i30 is getting a p1320 code with tcs off and slip illuminated. would you say to check ignition coils before checking condenser and crankshaft sensors?

just completed this myself with help from this video, can’t believe a shop wanted to charge me 1200 bucks for this job.

I too had the damn P1320 code. The Infiniti I30 has almost 200,000 miles. In the old days it seems Infiniti did not think it was important to let you know which one is bad, just the 1320 code. . And since the OBT2 is not showing it I figured I'd replace all of them. I was NOT getting them at the dealer since they are something like $140 bucks EACH! A shame, is the car worth that much? I picked up 6 coil packs at Advanced auto parts. As I recall they were about $50 or $60 bucks each and the brand was Car Quest. I asked a few mechanics around that I know and they said that brand was ok. Also, I recomended you getting one of those socket wrench extensions WITH the swivel socket ATTACHED to it. It is a good timesaver! Anyway, I did the three on the firewall side and everything went together very well. The three by the radiator was another story. Should be easier, right? It really is, HOWEVER.... The Car Quest coil packs although went in fine I discovered the electrical plug would not snap on the coil pack as they did in the back. Seeme the fronts were made wrong. The transformer, where the plug attaches too was just a tad to long causing the plug not to click in. UGH.. I was gonna file them down but decided to return the three. the Manager got me three coil packs made by Hatachi. But they were more money but he matched the price of the car quest parts because of the trouble! I was worried about mixing brands but it has been almost a year now and NO issues! So the old girl is good for another 200,000 miles? lol

The stories sheesh just get to it

ArmorAll is your friend use it.

Who has 1998 maxima ? and how many miles on it ? Mine 344k

I appreciate the video, it would be helpful to mention the torque setting. Thanks.

mine had a crack there too

Huuuuuuge help thank you for the great video

You offer really great information but the wind was unbearable and I couldn’t keep watching. Maybe you can try to play with the sound mix so we can hear you better

What about the other o2 sensor?

how did you use a ob2 reader i cant seem to get mine to connect to it?

i enjoyed your video plus learned a lot

You're a big help on the power steering and like you said that big boat in the back it's the challenge someone thank you for your info appreciate it

Iam working power steering pump

Yeah u explain pretty well

Guy took shifter of my t170 now I can't get it to go in any gear

What coil pack brand did you use? I hear on the forums to only use oem. I can pick up a set of Hanshin coils but they are about $110 each. If its worth it I’ll do it, looking to get coils as it hasnt been done in a very long time.

Dam that looked like a pain in the ass, I guess I’ll try it

Nice tires...good Ole max

I tried your wheel off access to the bottom clamp without success. I did not have enough room to fit my hand with a wrench to loosen the clamp. I found it much easier to pivot the fuse box out of the way by removing one nut, slide off the pinch clamp by the firewall, and carefully lifting up. With that method, I could easily reach everything from under the hood.

Do u have a video how to remplace of rotors and brake pads sir??

What year is that Maxima

Thank you! This was just what I was looking for. The Infiniti/Nissan factory shop manual says to replace the whole stinking arm for about 10x what a ball joint costs. And I can't source an Infiniti/Nissan ball joint by its own self. I have to get the Infiniti I30 up and going quick, so I have to be happy with the Autozone Duralast ball joint, rather than the pricier top end NAPA or OhReally? item. The Duralast has a ltd lifetime warranty. Sure hope I never have to use it.

I cannot figure out which 14mm bolt in the rear...I see 2..I lower 1 higher

little bit windy...

Oh my gosh.. I could’ve used this 5 yrs ago but am still so grateful to see this now

What a wonderful video! I have a 2000 infiniti I30. Same engine as yours. It pulls the P1320 code. Reset the computer and it keeps coming back. The engine runs smooth as silk!! NO misfire or anything. I changed the condenser with the infiniti part hoping it would cure the problem. Still pulls the code, UGH.. I have watched your GREAT video. It seems you are the only one talking about the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors!! MORE power to you. This must be where the fault lies since the engine runs great. Question, did you go with OEM or after market. These 3 sensors from infiniti are $100 for the camshaft sensor, $78 for one of the crankshaft sensors and $123 for the other crankshaft sensor. All MITSUBISHI. On ebay the china versions are like $15 bucks and $24 for both crankshaft sensors. Something tells me I should use the Infiniti OEM version. THANKS AGAIN!!!

Thank you for this

Always use gloves

thank you so much for this video! i have the same 89 truck and same problem, really helpful

dayum nigguh! this aint no maxima! love the content tho keep it up!

face reveal!

Thanks. A lot of work

Had the old one out in about 15 mins, now the new one won't go back in lol