From the advice of my Bmw repair shop with 20 years of experience with these and other cars (I also have a 16 year old E92 M3) is that you mustn't start the car and let it idle for 6-10min to warm up. The entire engine, vanos pump, transmission and driveline needs to warm up together so starting the car and driving it right away, keeping the revs under 3000rpm until you're an oil temp of 100C or 210F is the best way. So I agree with you about warming everything up just not in the way you do it exactly.
I've had my '07 M5 since 2011, when it had 68,000 miles on it. It now has 131,000 miles, has never had it's Vanos worked on, and I still haven't replaced the rod bearings, but after having many problems with my 3 E46 SMG M3's, I wouldn't have bought another SMG,, so thankfully I have a 6 speed. I have replaced 1 throttle actuator, my sunroof doesn't work, but for almost 13 years now, that's not bad !
Hello. That’s exactly how you said. I have one M5 from 2006, I bought the car in 2014, and that maintenance is crucial to kelp the car as good as new. Great engine, great sound, great family car, can be smooth and also can be the devil 😂. 👍👍👍
I’ve just bought M5 estate in UK super happy!! Getting rod bearings done for peace of mind! All injectors already been changed. I live on a terraced street (olde England) so don’t want to oiss neighbors off so I start let cold start settle and then drive off gently using low rpm until she’s warm … still haven’t given her a full hard drive … going to wait until rod bearings done!! Looking forward to being part of community!
I don’t think it’s a good idea to keep idling for 10 minutes. I never do that to e60 m5 since I have it at 40,000 miles to now 157,000 miles. I just keep the rpm between 2,000 - 3000 when cold and the car still going strong. Haven’t change the rod bearing yet.
Exactly. If you idle too long, the oil flow is not proper to lubricate the seals. The rest of the car heats up, but not the seals which cause leaks. Highly recommend that this car be owned by people who can afford a real mechanic once a year because this is a somewhat unreliable car.
I agree. Mine has 99,900 miles, stock bearings, doesn’t burn oil. I let my idle for two or three minutes and then drive modestly below 3000 rpm with gentle shifts. But once it’s at 210 degrees and fully warm, it is ready to rock!
11:47 the throttle actuator isnt your problem its your cams not being able to hold position due to the vanos solenoids. It wouldnt hurt cleaning the DC motors of carbon in the Throttle Actuators to prevent failure but the VANOS solenoids are the weak point there. You throttle actuators actually dont come alive until higher torque demand a lot of low speed driving is performed on the idle actuator then transfers to the throttle actuator.
On older cars you need to keep the tank half full or better most of the time because the fuel pump is lubricated and cooled by the fuel in the tank, and if runs too low on fuel for long it will make the pump work harder and possibly fail since it has probably done thousands and thousands of hours of pumping already, learned that from running standalone ECU on some cars and noticing that the fuel pressure droped marginally on most of my 90's and early 2000's junk when it got close to 1/4 tank.
@@ChrisManjuris yeah, you said in the video that your father gave you that tip but you did not know why, i'm looking into an E60 M5, and you did a great video, will spend a couple bucks more on the buy to get a nicer example so i can rest assured on the years to come. thanks for the tips!
@@lucasdamask Glad you enjoyed the video brotha and really appreciate the comments! More stuff to come soon. Best of luck with the maintenance and stuff on your end !
hello, if you have a problem with restless idling with heated oil. check your vanos valves. my idle was jumping 800-1500 rpm. after replacing the solenoids everything is ok. yes they are expensive😅
@@ChrisManjuris hey, if the revolutions fluctuate even when the oil is warm, after driving. and after a few minutes it calms down and after that it flies off again…. there is clearly a problem in the solenoids. I managed to buy 4 pcs OEM in Europe for $720. I can see how the market is and we'll figure something out. somewhere the prices are absolutely insane.
PCV valves can also cause rough start idle that goes away when driving, Ionic Control Module can also cause it and easiest way to tell is if an entire bank misfires since there is 1 per bank
I believe that’s actually in the owners manual if I remember correctly, actually advises against letting it idle to warm temps and suggests driving lightly until temps are in normal operating temps, it’s how I warm mine up too.
Can I make a suggestion: Would you mind to up the camera movements a little bit? This swinging from you to the car back and forth. Maybe see if you can have a secondary camara, and do some editing, or have two camera's running simultaneously, with you in the bottom corner or something. It will really be helpful. Let me know what you think.
Don't trust the owners manual 100 percent, for emissions reasons BMW sometimes wants you to go over 7k miles on oil change intervals and light weight oil (generally speaking) not just the e60. So I can see how they wouldn't want you idling, everyone wants to push that idea that its bad, but it makes sense to warm up, metal expands as it heats up and different rates, 5-7 minutes of idle is just what it needs.
@@aidenp5768im curious because theres so much conflicting info, some say let it idle for 5-7 some say only 2-3 is needed and at that point u should drive so the oil warms up and the engine doesnt keep running with cold oil
@@jacksheneman6242 In colder climates def 7-10 minutes, 60-90f you could do 5 minutes. A lot of people say drive off on cold oil, I just don't agree, theres different materials in bmws that don't justify just driving off, piston rings, cylinder walls, rod bearings, cams all have different materials and are certain size when cold, once they're some what warm you drive off, its not just oils its expansion and engine temp. When your idle there's no load as its warming up, in drive there is load, so even tho its longer to idle then drive the oil is slowly getting to the right temp not rushed therefor, less wear on bearings, and piston rings and importantly cylinder wall, this is only relevant tho to cars you keep for the long run. You won't notice the effects of longevity till 200,000 miles+
hey - great video....nice to see something locally within GTA....we have same E60 - 2006, 83,000kms....no problems so far....when did you have the rod bearings done...
Sorry buddy , had to bail on the video after a few mins. Camera movements giving me a headache. Super interested in this kind of content in the future.
With older cars, especially BMW’s and especially M’s it’s very common. Just comes with age. Rule of thumb for the M5 E60 from what I’ve read is that it burns about 500ml per 3 full tanks of gas depending on how the car is driven
You don’t regally need to do that. You just drive get the oil moving. Keep under 3,000 rpm. I have 257,000 miles on my n52 and 158,000 miles on my E60 M5 both of them are 2010.
@@The_North0 omg u got 2 E60’s im jealous😁 i do wait like 2-3mins till i start driving, then i keep slow driving below 2.000rpm just in case i got 530d M57 love the car, got it now for 8 months.
@@ChrisManjuris are you sure? I owned my e60 m5 since 40,000 miles and now it has 157,000 miles and still on the same rod bearing. I almost never let it idle for few minutes, I would just drive it and keep the rpm under 3000. The car warm up much faster that way if you move it than let it sit for few minutes. I did the same to all my cars. For example, I have another e60 with n52 engine with over 230,000 since 55,000 miles and I do it the same way I do with the m5 but maintain low rpm and once the car warm up enough I do whatever I want. I tends to change oil every 8,000 to 10,000 miles. I lives in a much hotter environment and that might explains why I am able to get away with it.
@@ChrisManjurisI had been having some idle issues, specifically rougher starts and some idle bouncing upon starting. Not just cold start, but for a few minutes after starting, even warm. Lost a throttle actuator a month and half ago. Replaced both but the problem persists. I have a new fuel filter, as well as adapter, lock ring and gasket. Hopefully this weekend will be able to get it put in, and will solve the problems. If not, time to look at the vanos system.
From the advice of my Bmw repair shop with 20 years of experience with these and other cars (I also have a 16 year old E92 M3) is that you mustn't start the car and let it idle for 6-10min to warm up. The entire engine, vanos pump, transmission and driveline needs to warm up together so starting the car and driving it right away, keeping the revs under 3000rpm until you're an oil temp of 100C or 210F is the best way. So I agree with you about warming everything up just not in the way you do it exactly.
I've had my '07 M5 since 2011, when it had 68,000 miles on it. It now has 131,000 miles, has never had it's Vanos worked on, and I still haven't replaced the rod bearings, but after having many problems with my 3 E46 SMG M3's, I wouldn't have bought another SMG,, so thankfully I have a 6 speed. I have replaced 1 throttle actuator, my sunroof doesn't work, but for almost 13 years now, that's not bad !
Not bad at all! And the manuals are super rare so even better. Enjoy it bro
Any other issues in these twelve years?
I'm looking at a 6mt with 119k on the clock right now...
Gotta warm her up before you get her hot... This is universal knowledge 😎
Always 🤝
Hello. That’s exactly how you said. I have one M5 from 2006, I bought the car in 2014, and that maintenance is crucial to kelp the car as good as new. Great engine, great sound, great family car, can be smooth and also can be the devil 😂. 👍👍👍
Haha yes this is the perfect way to describe the M5😂
I’ve just bought M5 estate in UK super happy!! Getting rod bearings done for peace of mind! All injectors already been changed. I live on a terraced street (olde England) so don’t want to oiss neighbors off so I start let cold start settle and then drive off gently using low rpm until she’s warm … still haven’t given her a full hard drive … going to wait until rod bearings done!! Looking forward to being part of community!
Congrats on the car man and welcome to the club🫡
I don’t think it’s a good idea to keep idling for 10 minutes. I never do that to e60 m5 since I have it at 40,000 miles to now 157,000 miles. I just keep the rpm between 2,000 - 3000 when cold and the car still going strong. Haven’t change the rod bearing yet.
Exactly. If you idle too long, the oil flow is not proper to lubricate the seals. The rest of the car heats up, but not the seals which cause leaks. Highly recommend that this car be owned by people who can afford a real mechanic once a year because this is a somewhat unreliable car.
I agree.
Mine has 99,900 miles, stock bearings, doesn’t burn oil. I let my idle for two or three minutes and then drive modestly below 3000 rpm with gentle shifts.
But once it’s at 210 degrees and fully warm, it is ready to rock!
11:47 the throttle actuator isnt your problem its your cams not being able to hold position due to the vanos solenoids. It wouldnt hurt cleaning the DC motors of carbon in the Throttle Actuators to prevent failure but the VANOS solenoids are the weak point there. You throttle actuators actually dont come alive until higher torque demand a lot of low speed driving is performed on the idle actuator then transfers to the throttle actuator.
I’m thinking of getting one like this in
February and thank you so much for being a honest person about it
Happy to help and best of luck with the car search!
@@ChrisManjuris thank you :)
Fellow Canadian here also named Chris! I recently picked up an 06 M5 as well. Awesome cars for the money regardless of their issues!
Wow what a coincidence haha! Love it man
@@ChrisManjuris I tried to find the wing you have but I don't think it's available anymore...
Chris m6 America reporting for duty
@@christopherbowen We need to unite all the M and V10 Chris's in the world
Excellent video - i have kept mine runnibg well for 5 years. No major issues once preventables done.
Thank you! And glad to hear your M5 is still running well
On older cars you need to keep the tank half full or better most of the time because the fuel pump is lubricated and cooled by the fuel in the tank, and if runs too low on fuel for long it will make the pump work harder and possibly fail since it has probably done thousands and thousands of hours of pumping already, learned that from running standalone ECU on some cars and noticing that the fuel pressure droped marginally on most of my 90's and early 2000's junk when it got close to 1/4 tank.
Yes this is a great tip! Something my dad always tells me too actually about the gas tank. Easy fix that a lot of people neglect
@@ChrisManjuris yeah, you said in the video that your father gave you that tip but you did not know why, i'm looking into an E60 M5, and you did a great video, will spend a couple bucks more on the buy to get a nicer example so i can rest assured on the years to come. thanks for the tips!
@@lucasdamask Glad you enjoyed the video brotha and really appreciate the comments! More stuff to come soon. Best of luck with the maintenance and stuff on your end !
hello, if you have a problem with restless idling with heated oil. check your vanos valves. my idle was jumping 800-1500 rpm. after replacing the solenoids everything is ok. yes they are expensive😅
Ohhh i know they’re expensive , it scares me haha🥲 but you could be right I think. The vanos system altogether is very scary and expensive to fix lol
@@ChrisManjuris hey, if the revolutions fluctuate even when the oil is warm, after driving. and after a few minutes it calms down and after that it flies off again…. there is clearly a problem in the solenoids. I managed to buy 4 pcs OEM in Europe for $720. I can see how the market is and we'll figure something out. somewhere the prices are absolutely insane.
Letting car warm up is key for all performance cars. I dont beat on my Focus ST until my oil is at least 150°.
Yessir ✅
PCV valves can also cause rough start idle that goes away when driving, Ionic Control Module can also cause it and easiest way to tell is if an entire bank misfires since there is 1 per bank
You dont have to warm it up for too long you can drive just with low throttle inputs and low rpms it will actually help the engine get to temp sooner
True that..
10 minutes is overkill, 5-7 though is appropriate nothing less or more than that.
@aidenp5768 I don't even wait that long if it's a regular day I give it about 20 seconds or so and keep inputs low until oil is at temp
Exactly.. as you say, driving with low rpm and low engine load helps the engine warm up faster but also warms up the SMG and rear diff
I believe that’s actually in the owners manual if I remember correctly, actually advises against letting it idle to warm temps and suggests driving lightly until temps are in normal operating temps, it’s how I warm mine up too.
still got mine and had all the bits done bar the SMG issues, huge pont missed, keep it on charge ! these cars do not like low battery power at all.
Yes good point!
Well said! Thanks!
I hope it helps :)
U got my e60 m5 for under 5k last year.
Can I make a suggestion: Would you mind to up the camera movements a little bit? This swinging from you to the car back and forth. Maybe see if you can have a secondary camara, and do some editing, or have two camera's running simultaneously, with you in the bottom corner or something. It will really be helpful. Let me know what you think.
Like the idea man and thank you for the feedback
The camera movements though..
Yeah exactly - full Blair Watch Project.
cool video . i have an e60 too but its a 525i lol. i also warm up my engine too
Thank you! And yes warm up is key
In maintenance book it says do not let the car idle
Don't trust the owners manual 100 percent, for emissions reasons BMW sometimes wants you to go over 7k miles on oil change intervals and light weight oil (generally speaking) not just the e60. So I can see how they wouldn't want you idling, everyone wants to push that idea that its bad, but it makes sense to warm up, metal expands as it heats up and different rates, 5-7 minutes of idle is just what it needs.
@@aidenp5768im curious because theres so much conflicting info, some say let it idle for 5-7 some say only 2-3 is needed and at that point u should drive so the oil warms up and the engine doesnt keep running with cold oil
@@jacksheneman6242 In colder climates def 7-10 minutes, 60-90f you could do 5 minutes. A lot of people say drive off on cold oil, I just don't agree, theres different materials in bmws that don't justify just driving off, piston rings, cylinder walls, rod bearings, cams all have different materials and are certain size when cold, once they're some what warm you drive off, its not just oils its expansion and engine temp. When your idle there's no load as its warming up, in drive there is load, so even tho its longer to idle then drive the oil is slowly getting to the right temp not rushed therefor, less wear on bearings, and piston rings and importantly cylinder wall, this is only relevant tho to cars you keep for the long run. You won't notice the effects of longevity till 200,000 miles+
hey - great video....nice to see something locally within GTA....we have same E60 - 2006, 83,000kms....no problems so far....when did you have the rod bearings done...
Nice maybe I'll see ya on the road! Have not done rod bearings, but got the oil tested
Can u shake the camera a bit harder?
5:36 you shouldnt have an issue running it low these tanks are great and can run really low even on track with higher lateral g forces
Sorry buddy , had to bail on the video after a few mins. Camera movements giving me a headache. Super interested in this kind of content in the future.
Yeah I realized the camera stabilization was off after recording 😑 rest of my videos don’t have that problem luckily
Is maybe the issue with the valve stem seals with the burning oil issue? Engines shouldn't burn oil.
With older cars, especially BMW’s and especially M’s it’s very common. Just comes with age. Rule of thumb for the M5 E60 from what I’ve read is that it burns about 500ml per 3 full tanks of gas depending on how the car is driven
even i warm up my engine for 2 or 3mins i have 530d M57 engine, i wanna take care of it
Exactly man, small and easy thing to do but helps the cars health so much
You don’t regally need to do that. You just drive get the oil moving. Keep under 3,000 rpm. I have 257,000 miles on my n52 and 158,000 miles on my E60 M5 both of them are 2010.
@@The_North0 you most definitely SHOULD be letting your car warmup. Dont just drive off when its cold...
@@The_North0 omg u got 2 E60’s im jealous😁 i do wait like 2-3mins till i start driving, then i keep slow driving below 2.000rpm just in case i got 530d M57 love the car, got it now for 8 months.
@@ChrisManjuris are you sure? I owned my e60 m5 since 40,000 miles and now it has 157,000 miles and still on the same rod bearing. I almost never let it idle for few minutes, I would just drive it and keep the rpm under 3000. The car warm up much faster that way if you move it than let it sit for few minutes. I did the same to all my cars. For example, I have another e60 with n52 engine with over 230,000 since 55,000 miles and I do it the same way I do with the m5 but maintain low rpm and once the car warm up enough I do whatever I want. I tends to change oil every 8,000 to 10,000 miles. I lives in a much hotter environment and that might explains why I am able to get away with it.
Have you changed the fuel filter recently? Could be related to the rough idle issues you notice with the lower gas levels
I think it’s been a while so you could be right. That’s a big help thank you ✌🏻
@@ChrisManjurisI had been having some idle issues, specifically rougher starts and some idle bouncing upon starting. Not just cold start, but for a few minutes after starting, even warm. Lost a throttle actuator a month and half ago. Replaced both but the problem persists. I have a new fuel filter, as well as adapter, lock ring and gasket. Hopefully this weekend will be able to get it put in, and will solve the problems. If not, time to look at the vanos system.
4 minute warm up 😂 Bros out here believing in myths like loch ness
Always bmw owners has engine oil in there trunk for the safe side.
Always 😂
11:40
The movement of the camera is Killing me
Is this unreliable? Sorry didnt hear you the first 74 times
You sound upset 🫵😄
Sorry didn't hear you - say it again 73 more times