Spark Plug Well Oil Leak Fix, Honda Accord - EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2010
- Spark Plug Well Oil Leak Fix, Honda Accord - EricTheCarGuy
www.ericthecarguy.com/
I know I've promised this one for some time so here it is. If you have this problem I recommend replacing the seals in the valve cover first and then coming back to recheck for oil in the spark plug wells in about a month or so, if you find oil then I recommend performing this procedure. I can't stress enough how important it is to make sure everything is lined up correctly when you reinstall the rocker assembly, bad things can happen if you don't.
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Its 16 lb-ft for the 12mm, and 9 lb-ft for the 10 mm
I have a workshop book and I checked the numbers thats the torques specs.
Vote this comment up so people will see it.
165 ft lbs
I am 954.84 in/tons
Yup... learned this the hard way after shearing the 10mm bolts... off to the pick and pull.
Missles that’s for a f 22b 1 though this engine is an F 22B2
@@ChristianF15cher has both.
Wonderful Eric! I have learned so much from your videos, especially this one. As a woman, it's very hard for me to walk into an auto shop and get a quote for a grand for just about anything that needs to be done. I'm not down with being ripped off and thanks to you I've saved thousands in repairs on all of my cars.
Just did this job today on my 96 accord. This video was really helpful. 3 of my four spark plug wells were flooded with oil. Used a blunt tip syringe to get all the oil out of the spark plug wells before I unscrewed the spark plugs so it wouldn't get all down in the cylinders. Once I got to the seals, they were super brittle. If I hadn't known any better, I would have assumed they were made of cheap plastic.
One huge mistake I made was taking all the fasteners out of the rocker arm assembly. I believe Eric even has a note not to do this. If you take them out/let them fall out, the mechanism is spring loaded and the rocker arms will slide along the bars and get all wacked out. I had to use a soft mallet to get the rocker arms back into alignment which took a decent amount of time.
I called a few local mechanics and they had no idea what I was talking about when I asked if they could replace my lower spark plug seals under the rocker arms. Thanks to this video, I decided to just do it myself, saved money, and learned a few things.
@Cody Hawkins i did the same lol
Nice work
@@jawnybonez3168 you guys use the torque wrench ?
Confident, laid back, helps the viewers feel like they can accomplish what he's describing. All great attributes of a good instructor. When I have a choice, I'm going to pick Eric everytime. Good videos
Now that I've replaced the gasket under the rocker arm assembly, my 1995 Honda Odyssey no longer has oil seeping into the spark plug wells. Thank you for posting this video.
Hi Eric, thanks to your video my brother and I were able to do this job on our own. All our spark plug wells were drowning in oil but car gave no noticeable symptoms. I only noticed when I decided to do a spark plug change. The spark plug gaskets were melted and all the o rings on the lower level brittle but looked fine at first. We followed all your instructions and it was a complete success...... keep up the good work. We appreciate your time and work to produce this video..........
I am driving a 97 Honda accord SE with 231000 miles. I will let you know when it reaches 460000 miles
6:17 "Don't be scared." - How did he know what I was thinking? :-)
I still love watching this video. I did this job on my 96 Accord LX almost 10 years ago because of this video. I would have never had the balls to attempt it until watching this because I had never worked on my own car before.
The seals no longer leaked for the 7+ years I had the car after that before it finally died at 318k.
Thanks again Eric!!
Thank you so much for the video. All the little hints and clues on what to look for when reinstalling worked out so perfectly. Everything went smooth. Thank you my man, Thank you!
Love your videos!!! You've saved me sooo much money since buying my 95 civic...so thank you. You need to mention one thing in regards to the gaskets. When calling your dealer/ local auto parts store for the COMPLETE gasket kit make sure that it includes the lower spark plug tube seals ( only thing I know to call them).....ONLY one store knew of which I was talking about (including dealer), the rest told me I just needed the valve cover gasket, 4 grommets, and 3 tube seals that came in kit. One place in particular, smyth near our neck of the woods, told me that he disagreed and that was all he needed when he did his tear down. In summary, fellow viewers be specific when requesting the gaskets and hopefully you don't run into an arrogant ass as I did. Thanks again for all the great videos Eric
@jrmym2 It's been getting harder to keep up but I'm glad I was able to make the correction. Thanks for your comments.
So I just finished this and here's some advice:
1. Maybe this doesn't matter but I would suggest setting the timing wheel to the "up" position before removing the rocker assembly. In the end, my wells aren't flooding with oil anymore but I was concerned about pressure on the rocker assembly having done the procedure while cylinder one was up on the exhaust valves.
2. This engine is an F22B2. It is NOT similar to the F22B1 which is a VTEC engine. I tried tightening my B2 to the settings listed in the comments section and it still leaked oil. I set them to Eric's recommendations of 22 ft-lbs and 12 ft-lbs and it stopped leaking oil. F22B2 engines in my local junkyard were clicking at 26 lb-ft and 16 lb-ft. If you guys are breaking bolts, my guess is that you're doing so on a F22B1 using the F22B2 recommendations.
3. There are 2 bolts size 10mm on the distributor. DO NOT tighten these two to anything more that around 5 or 6 lb-ft. They WILL break if you try to get them to 10 lb-ft , I know because I snapped one. Again, THEY ARE NOT THE SAME KIND OF BOLTS THAT HOLD THE ROCKER ASSEMBLY DOWN!
4. I highly suggest using Indian Head shellac on the VCG. Makes it a lot easier than balancing spaghetti.
5. I was able to get away without tapping the assembly down with a hammer or placing sealant on the corner of the VC gasket. Dunno if you should, but I haven't noticed any leaks yet.
6. If you're replacing your spark plug O rings on a 5th gen Accord, you will probably have to change your SP seals, distributor oil seal, and distributor O ring as well. It's very possible that your heater core hose will need replaced also because when the distributor seal and O ring fail, the leaking oil rots out the heater hose. This causes a coolant leak and this slurry mixture rolls down hill and then rots the boots on your CV axles. Chances are that there's oil in your distributor cap, if so that will also cause misfires. Save time and grief by having all the rubber parts replaced at the same time. blast your dizzy out with brake clean, and hope for the best.
7. Advance Auto sells a set of the dizzy O ring and Oil seal together, they also sell a kit that consists of the VCG, SP seals, and SP O rings together. The latter product is not returnable once it is opened. If you're REALLY looking to be cheap, you might be able to gamble with rubber parts out of junkyard cars. Most are plasticized but I've found usable-quality dizzy o rings and spark plug seals before. All things considered, it's probably just best to replace all the rubber at the same time and use new parts.
8. It's a fantastic car. It's peppy, great on gasoline, lots of fun to drive, and they've been known to last over 400K miles with proper care.
I don't see how you can stay so mellow when things aren't going your way I always use foul language and call the parts real bad names
You ever call one of your parts a cunt and then realize it was actually your fault and then you have to spend the rest of the day walking on eggshells while repeatedly apologizing profusely?
@@0for30 LOL!
I need to find a tube, and the dealership doesn't have a clue as to what I'm talking about!
@@0for30 Haha...many times.
Stop doing that you don’t have to. My daughter 8&10 listening
You are the best TH-cam mechanic I've seen.
2004 Honda civic 1.7 turns over real fast but won't start
@junrems I believe it will. Good luck.
@Zubirrex I call them tube seals. I recommend getting them from Honda as they seem to work the best.
"You know who I am."
-Eric, 1.3M subs later
92 accord my engine was over heating. found a busted hose. But while looking seen the spark plug wore sticking up. Had oil in all 4 spark plug wells. went from a busted hose to changing head gasket to changing the cam to painting the car and now it's sitting with a for sale sign on it. also was converted from auto to a manual tranny from a 98 accord. non vtec with some balls.
@pbestus0730 In fact this will work on the civic too as some models have a very similar design. I just take a small pry bar and catch a corner under one of the cage assemblies and pry up slightly to get things started and that usually does the trick. Good luck and I hope the fix helps your problem.
@jonpallan I think you may have the seal in too far so you might want to reposition it. As I said before not all parts are created equal so you might want to see if you can track down an OE part. The only place that sealant should go is on the corners of the valve cover gasket in my opinion.
Some extra notes on the process that might help:
-If your spark plug wells are flooded with oil, taking off the valve cover first (and even the rocker assembly) gives better access to get the oil out with a syringe or towel. You do not need to remove the spark plugs to remove the valve cover or rocker assembly.
-It is 9 ft lbs torque for the 10mm bolts and 16 ft lbs for the 12mm bolts, like that other comment and the Hanes manual says.
-There is a tiny vertical hole on the left side of the rocker assembly where the valve cover gasket goes. I used a small screwdriver to pry the left side up from there.
And, boy do I have a story to tell. One year ago, I had a shop change my timing belt on my 93 Accord (same model as this video). They said "hey there's oil in the spark plug wells" and would only charge me for the valve cover gasket part, not labor, so I agreed. Flash forward to a couple months ago, there is oil in the spark plug wells again and I find this video. The engine is also misfiring, which is why I checked the spark plugs. Turns out those lower seals were not replaced. I get down to them and they snap like cheap plastic. I guess the moral is don't trust anyone at all with your vehicle.
Eric your video is a lifesaver and helped me do this so much. I had only dealt with some suspension parts before, never down and dirty inside the engine, so this gave me the confidence to do this right. One of the spark plug coils had a crack in it and I had no idea how old the spark plugs were, so I changed those out too. No leaks, and no misfiring any more. And I only used RTV on the corners of the valve cover gasket just like you said. :)
hey, what is the name of the seal he changed in this video
@@TheDarrenvalentine It should be included in a valve cover gasket set. If you're looking to buy one, it should come with two sets of four gaskets and the four washers that go on top of the valve cover gaskets.
I would call the 'hard to get' ones the lower spark plug seals.
@@flashuser777 ok thanks
@@flashuser777 I have a mechanic that says he has done this before.. but this is so delicate with so many specific , critical steps I am not sure to trust.. did you use engine pre-lube on everything ??
@@memopadilla5931 The only thing I used besides the seals was some RTV sealant on the corners of the valve cover gaskets like Eric did. Everything should come apart and go back together without any extra lubricant or anything else.
The torque specs according to my Hanes Manual for the 10mm bolts are 108 in-lbs and the 12mm bolts are 16 ft-lbs. When I tried the spec described in this video I broke one of my 12mm bolts. For thos bolts all you really have to do is tighten the 12mm bolts to 16 ft-lbs and hand tighten the 10 mm bolts. Please make corrections so no one goes through the same. I love the vids and continue to view them. (1990 Honda Accord DX Fully Rebuilt)
That's YOUR fault for not consulting a manual to confirm.
9' lbs on 10 mm bolts
@chismca Thank you very much for that comment I really appreciate it.
@hutchakai Yes I believe this would also work on that engine. The seals are referred to as 'spark plug well seals' to the best of my knowledge. I recommend getting them from Honda as they have the best parts for this repair.
Would you mind posting a link to get the o-rings? I'm having trouble locating them. Thanks!!!!! And really great videos btw!
They come with the felpro vcg kit
excellent video and very much appreciated.
So where can you find the replacement seals?
Part Number: W0133-1667782
@zhour123 I would first be looking for any leaks especially at the drain plug and oil filter, if those are good then perhaps do a compression test to check the mechanical health of the engine. Lastly be sure you use the correct oil as oil that is too thin will burn off more quickly.
@jeepers2655 That is usually an indication of extended oil changes as it sounds like sludge buildup.
hey people if your gonna do this job yourself make sure the camshaft is rotated to the right position before you remove the rocker arm assembly. the end of the cam has a flat slot that fits into the distributor if its pointing straight up and down and still under the tension of the timing belt you could pull the cam out with the rocker arms and screw the engine timing :(
Yup that is what I was reading on the Haynes Honda accord repair manual
What have that to do with the cam-distributor connection. Here we have only a rocker arm assembly removal. What role plays the position of the cam? Eric has not paid attention to that at all ? Needed he at all. Clear up once again,. please
Stefan Ovcharov I just took mine off without seeing this comment thread, and since the cam was pointing straight up my cam popped halfway out and now I'm probably screwed lol
How do you tell the cam is in the right position?
Its 9ft torque on the 10MM incase anyone breaks a bolt and needs to know
I stripped two bolt holes in the valve cover in my Civic because that was only 7ft-lb, and that is very light!
Just broke a bolt lol
@fishycomics Glad you liked it, thanks for the info and the comment.
This was my first repair video I seen from you in 2012 when I was fixing my 88 Civic. Still watch this video just cause it's awesome! Cool to see where you came from.
Oh man... I got this exact problem with my accord... I wonder if I dare to tare the thing apart...
Im going to tear mine apart to fix it
JARVIS LEE It actually seems simple enough..
Dammit Eric! You didn't tell me the whole assembly would come flying apart xD !! It was a hassle to get it back together. But the O-rings had gone really bad. Like plastic. Now I just have to find new one. I thought I had bought all of the gaskets but then I found out I missed the O-rings... the fun you can have while trying to do stuff you really don't know anything about.
+He Ka how do you get these o rings? Cause mine are going Anything will help
Christopher Elrod Well I took one of the old ones with me to just some car parts dealer. He found some rings roughly the same size. He told me he couldn't promise they would work out but I still used them and now the engine is running quite good. No oil leaks.
Oh and when I put the thing together I found out you should definitely leave the bolts in the assembly part. The bolts hold the thing together.
just recently fixed my head gasket but now it's like I'm getting fluid on my plugs
Make sure you replace those valve cover rings. If you your head gasket came in a kit, it should include NEW valve cover rings.
@Sethmatuu I recommend getting them from the Honda dealer, they are better parts anyway.
@llerar1000 Good luck and thanks for the comment, take your time on that valve adjustment and you should be fine.
will this leak cause my honda to kinda jerk around while driving ?
That's exactly what happened when I was driving,,One day smooth,,,next day,, engine vibrates and Idle hesitates at stop light,,,no Check Engine lights..
@jrmym2 The annotation has been made, thanks for pointing that out.
@daonenonlyNINJA I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.
@trixxxstr I'm happy to help, thanks for your comments.
I think Eric's videos provide a great starting point for us fix-it guys. I however do not expect them to be a be-all end-all solution to all my problems therefore I do consult the specific tech spec's for my vehicles and appreciate what his experiences provide at face value.
Thanks Eric
@JMAE881 Iv'e seen that but I was not aware that it was a habitual problem. I would do a compression and leak down test to see what kind of shape the engine is in, if it seals well you might have a problem with valve seals causing the consumption issue.
@Syrius187 I would actually recommend going with OE parts for this, they really aren't that expensive and it's a much better part.
Thank You Eric for the videos. I bought Toyota Camry's for my two older daughters and am pretty comfortable working on them, I bought a 96 Accord with an F22B2 (?) for my youngest and will be doing this job along with setting the valves tomorrow. (I did the timing belt/water pump today). Thanks again.
@JBot307 Those are for the valve cover grommets, the go under the fasteners that hold the valve cover on.
@sofranko102 I call them spark plug well seals or tube seals, make sure you look at a pic first. Many times they come in a valve cover gasket set.
@captainvlog I've just seen it a lot is all. Thanks for the comment.
@fjchavez06 That was where I used the throttle cleaner, it runs the oil into the cylinders but there really is no other place for it to go, make sure the garage door is open when you start it for the first time.
@pHILLYYYY It will leak eventually and you should replace it. Depends how far the bolt is broken off inside the nut how you would go about getting it out. The studs are actually part of a longer bolt that holds the cam cage on and is pretty easy to replace. Use a 1/4 to install the nuts next time and that will help prevent breakage.
Thank you for this video; I encountered this problem on my 92 accord ex with h23 IM. I kept thinking that my FITV and/or IAC was dirty again, or my EGR was clogged. Did all of these and my hesitation was still occuring; when the EGR system was cleaned, I started noticing the plug wire popping out. This job was a pain, mostly because I was semi-paying attention during the video and did not see the comment about the fasteners - took them out, lifted on cage and bam, ends came off. Took about 1.5-2hrs to fix it all.
@saulanibal1 No need to worry about that as you do not disconnect the timing belt at all.
Thank you Eric. I managed to get my rings replaced as well ad the top seals, and I did the valve cover gasket as well. Now Im looking at your videos for starter switches and fuel relay switches. You give me the confidence to be able to do these things on my own.
Thanks so much for your help. I did this job about 3 months ago on my '93 LX. I ended up with 4 extra seals and couldn't figure out where they went. Now i know what they're for. Im going to tackle this job correctly thanks to you. Keep up the good work bud
@rosanne623 You need to make sure everything lines up perfectly so I would go back and check the work. You should also adjust the valves when you are done with this.
@stonent It sounds like this is what you need to do then, good luck.
@RemarkableVideos Yes there is and it normally comes with a valve cover gasket, in fact you could consider them part of the valve cover gasket. In my experience if there is a great deal of oil in the well replacing the valve cover seals may not be enough so I normally tell people with this condition that we can replace the valve cover gaskets and see what it looks like in a month or so, if there is still oil in the wells after that I perform this procedure.
I did this job on my 90 accord and it was so simple thanks to you, I had never been under a hood prior to this and I was able to finish it, thanks so much man I really appreciate you putting this up!!!
@EricTheCarGuy No problem Eric! Your videos and tips have made me attempt more DIY repairs that seemed more daunting than they really were.
@818blue818 Either way the threads are probably destroyed and your going to have to do some sort of thread repair. I've had to do this myself and it only lasted a short time, you might consider getting it fixed at a machine shop or replace the head for best results.
@kirilchuk Without hearing the noise it's almost impossible for me to tell what the issue is but since you just did all that work I would go back and look it over for anything that sticks out.
@stonent That's why I left the bolts in, if you take them out the springs force the assembly to come apart, hence the annotation in the video.
@bumblebeecbr I always love hearing how my work helps people. Thanks very much for your comment.
@cmk61991 I love it when my work helps people, thanks for the comment.
Eric,
Thanks for this super awesome video. I did both the upper and lower seals yesterday on my step-daughters 1996 Accord DX. This video was spot on and answered many questions that a shop manual cannot touch...I learned a lot.
Cheers,
@projectcortez I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.
@nubster02 Sorry to hear about that, if it makes you feel better I lost my job as a mechanic because someone I worked with ruined an engine doing this very thing, long story.
@jeepers2655 Good luck, thanks for the comments.
@wkbogan Actually if you have the VTEC engine I don't believe it has this set up, I think it uses tubes that go all the way into the head instead of this split design. If you have a leak in that type I would start with the valve cover seals, make sure they are installed correctly as it can be confusing to determine how those go in.
@181884silvia I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.
Thanks so much , Eric ! I've been waiting all winter to do this on my "92 Accord.
@Flyingsheep That's why I didn't take them out in the video, should have mentioned that. Glad you got it fixed though, thanks for your comment.
hey Eric, thanks for this video. I had this same problem with my 96 accord and I just changed the upper and lower seals today. You definately gave me the confidence to attempt this myself and everything went together perfectly. I watched your video about 3 times before I did the job just to make sure I wasnt over looking anything! Thanks again man, your awesome!
Ok... so I was super nervous to tackle this project on my 94 accord but it turned out great! Thank you so much for your video on "what to do", "what not to do" and "what to expect". You just saved me and my family a huge mechanic bill! And, I know it was done correctly! You rock!!!
@smith20105 I honestly don't know, I recommend you check the Audi service manual for the specifics on that engine.
@s0nnyburnett This is actually a common problem especially on engines that got infrequent oil changes, I would change the seals both top and bottom and see if the condition still exists.
@saulanibal1 I think so but check with the service manual to be sure.
Thanks! I've had my '96 Accord since 2008, and I'm about to have to replace these seals for the second time. I appreciate the recommendations for no sealant and to tap the rocker assembly to be sure it's seated properly.
I like Watching Eric’s old videos shows how much he’s progressed.
THANK YOU ERIC! This was a fun job. I appreciate how you explain what's important and WHY it's important. This job went exactly like it was supposed to go--no surprises. It's the first time I saw inside of an engine. People kept telling me not to mess with it (even the guy at the parts store! Sexist!) but I'm glad I did. It wasn't that hard, and the lower tube seals were totally crumbling apart. And I learned a lot! With patience everything lined up perfectly and I'm completely confident that I did it right.
@heyjustthetip Lets just say I've done this a few times. Thanks for the comment.
thank you Eric very helpful, I just finished replacing original Orings on 17yr old Honda Accord 292,000miles. your warning to loosen outside then inside bolts allowed rocker arm to lift straight out. your warning to check the alignment of rocker arms to valve stem or risk damaging valves was great. I hand cranked the engine and watched each rocker arm depress a valve stem before starting engine
Thanks as always for an extremely helpful video. I performed this repair on my '96 Accord without problems, due to your help! Re-installing the rocker arm was the trickiest part for me, since alignment has to be exact for it to slip back into place. Valve adjustment wasn't fun, either, but fortunately only a few valves were out of recommended tolerances. Thanks again. Big smile when it started right up!
M4 bb gun
@cddisshort Yea the OE gasket is much better for the valve cover. Thanks for the comment.
@RemarkableVideos Thank you, I do the best I can to make the best videos possible.
@RickieToronto High complements indeed, thank you very much for that comment.
@mishakol129 I didn't read the instructions sorry but I've done it successfully this way for years. I recommend the valve adjustment as removing that cam retainer can alter the clearances so at the very least I think they should be checked.
Big Thanks Eric- this is exactly what the problem was on my 91 Honda Accord, the oil in the spark plugs and holes, new valve cover gasket and still leaking oil, and the engine had a miss at times, exactly what you said the problem was. Thanks again 🍻
Thanks so much. It really help me when all else was failing. I looked and looked for a video that explains what other seals are involved. No more leak by replacing these 4 little gaskets on the bottom of the "Rib Cage"
Thank you, Eric! My 91 Honda Accord had oil in the spark plug wells and I suspected the lower tube gaskets were the culprit. After removing the rocker arm assembly they appeared to be flattened and brittle. The valve cover gasket gave me the most problems. Regardless this video helped me all the way through. You’re the man!
Great video Eric. Following your steps I just completed this job on my car. All 4 of my plug tubes were absolutely drowning in oil.
Thanks Eric! This video gave me the confidence to tackle the job with my son. Everything went great, and it was a fun shared experience.
Had to do this exact fix, to this exact year and model. Cannot thank you enough for a detailed video and explanation!
@for2utube Been there myself a time or 2. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you brother you’re awesome! For your honesty and transparency. Be encouraged you’re one of the best. Ed
I have a 1993 Honda Accord LX coupe 5 speed and previously a 1992 DX auto with a/c and a 2002 EX-L and I love watching you work on them. You have an innate way of connecting with your viewers and keeping my attention.
@trucker11686 Awesome, I love it when my videos help people. Thanks for the comment.
@SystemXpander I believe so yes but go by the ones in the annotation NOT the video.
@infantmech If your not careful your going to ruin that head. It is absolutely imperative that you make sure everything is lined up correctly and tighten everything evenly, if not you'll be buying a new head or worse yet a new engine. P.S. Don't forget to use engine pre-lube on everything before final assembly.
I'm doing this exact same thing Friday on my 93 accord ex! this helped soo much!!
Old school ETCG, back when you kept it dirty! I miss that guy!
God bless!!!