Thanks again Eric for a very informative video. I just purchased a 91 Accord wagon with a very loud valve tick, and thanks to this video, it now runs as dead silent as my '90 Accord coupe. This was a great video for anyone needing to do this job. I got it right on the first try.
I respect that, thanks for that little bit of clarification. In my career as a technician I've encountered a few techs that I just didn't agree with, it's the reason I made Episode 1. The fact that you ask as many questions as you do says to me that you have an interest in doing the best you can do, in my book that makes for an excellent technician. Go with your gut and keep pursuing the best answer and remember no one person has them all.
Great job of explaining what could be very complicated. I'm 75 year old, woman, and a natural redhead. I only mention that b'cuz it explains how we differ from most women. We possess a dogged determination to succeed at something simply because we've ben told that we we won't be! Anyway, I have been working on my 1992 Honda Accord LX Station Wagon, since I got it, 21 years ago. I started doing my own vehicle maintenance and repair in 2001, after I got screwed over on 2 tune-ups on my 1991 Winnebago, on a Chevy chassis. Every time I got it back, within a week it was running just as bad as it was before I had the tune-up done. To be brief, I hung upside down in the passenger seat, pulled the distributor cap and rotor, and the spark plugs, and discovered that the plugs were original, from the factory, ( they had blue paint on the bottoms. My dad worked for GM, and told me, once that is how you can tell if a used vehicle has had general maintenance; paint on the plugs, not a good sign unless the vehicle is only 2 years or less) ! The distributor cap was cracked and the ignition points were black with carbon! Guessing it was original, too! I was a single mom, angry as ----, and vowed this would never happen again! As it turned out, this model and generation of Accord was one of the best for high milage with few major repairs, over time. Easy to repair, too. I am also fortunate to have a son that has been an assistant manager in Honda parts, for over 20 years. I considered getting a newer vehicle, a couple of years ago, but the particular Honda Odyssey I wanted was never for sale, at the priceI was looking for. Now that used cars have doubled or tripled in value, I've decided to fix my wagon up, and keep driving it. It only has 214,000 miles on it. My youngest son had a 1991 EX Wagon with 500,000 miles on it. He sold it to another one of my son's, in 2007, when the FIT came out. That '91 Wagon is still being used at my son's vineyard, 14 years later, so I'm sure, if you keep making those great DIY maintenance and repair videos, for the 4th generation Accord's, I can keep mine running like new. I was fortunate to find used one that was not driven where they use salt on the roads. Right after I bought it, I got recruited to work in South Texas, and direturn to the Midwest until 2014, so, outside of the Honda, "oops" rust, on the rear quarter panels, there's very little body rust. I'm going to learn how to use a MIG welder, this summer, so I'm hoping to do some fixing on the body. Sorry for the long comment. Keep up the great video's!
Thank you Eric for the detailed straight forward video made in 2009.Just finished with water pump and timing belt replacement on my 1986 civic si. I followed the my honda shop manual and adjusted the valves accordingly. The car sounded like a diesel after the first and 2nd adjustments.Felt really frustrated then I saw your video and did it the master honda technician way and my very first car is now purring like a little kitten and happy again. Thank you so much brother for sharing your wealth of knowledge. Keep Wrenching.
Eric I have to thank you for this video as it did encourage me to the valve adjustment on my accord, the same generation with the same engine (F23A1) as the one in your video... HOWEVER, the way the Honda Service Manual tells you to adjust the valves on the F23A1 engine leaves the lobes pointing to the front of the car and the base circle towards the back, as if you have to adjust the valves with the lobes at a 270 degree angle (lobes pointing up being 0 degrees and turning clockwise). An easier way to tell if they're in the right position for each cylinder would be to take out the two 10mm screws holding the timing belt cover around the cam gear. The cam gear will have an 'UP' indicator on its side which should be facing TOP DEAD CENTER (or Up) for the valve adjustment for cylinder 1. When positioning the Up indicator, please keep in mind the engine is in the car at a bit on an angle and try to turn 90 degrees relative to the angle the engine is tilted in. Turn the crankshaft 90 degrees counterclockwise so that the UP indicator is pointing to the front of the car to adjust cylinder 3. Turn 90 deg CC again to make UP point down to adjust cylinder 4. Turn once more 90 deg counterclockwise to make UP point towards the cabin of the car. I adjusted the valves to Eric's method and ended up with a very shaky, stuttering idle. I turned the car off and tried again the next day by the service manual's description and have my car running happily again. I may not be done since there is still a slight tick audible but less than before. I didn't write this to crap on your tutorial Eric. Really, it did help in making the process much less nerve-wracking. I am only posting this so that others do not panic and think they broke something with their Accord and the valve lash is simply off
I was kind of nervous about doing a valve adjustment, hence searching for and finding your video. But this is almost exactly like changing and touching off tools on a swiss lathe, which I can do in my sleep. I am still going to watch a few more times and find more instructional resources but I am way more confident now. Thanks.
I just tried it today. My accord is running a bit smoother now, and seems to start better as well. Didn't do a perfect job apparently, but ended up with better than what I had before. Maybe there are other problems keeping it from running really smoothly, but I'll watch your other vids and get that all sorted out. Thanks for the help, Eric!
So i adjusted my valves, got new spark plugs and adjusted my timing. Took me like 4hrs but now my car is running smooth. It wouldn't have taken as long if i bought that tool that you have to adjust them. Thanks for the video eric. 1993 civic d15b7
I really like how you dont just skip over 'in between' parts, instead just fast forwarding so you at least see whats being done. Keep up the great work!
I have an old Renault 4L and it smokes only when going uphill. after a lot of research I figure it could be the valves. going to give a it a try and set the gap after watching your video. thanks for being so thorough with your explanations, you make it easy to follow
Eric I love your videos it’s always refreshing to see the way other guys work and it’s obvious you are a very experienced Honda mechanic! I always pick up a couple pointers watching your videos, I like to think I could figure things out on my own but your hints and tricks they make me a better mechanic and I love these cars more every day. Keep it up!
you have helped me alot in so many's ways over all 800 bucks saved. thanks to you i do everything myself to my 92 accord. it runs like nobody's business. one time i let mechanics touch my car only becuase it was winter and i didnt have a garage. so i let them change my pads and rotors. this is my first car and i love the thing to death. cb7 :) thanks ericthecarguy
Hello there, Mr. Eric. I have a '98 Civic with the D16Y7 engine, needs an adjustment badly. In other videos I've seen, the person takes the front left wheel off, sticks a very long extension in there to turn the engine over via the crank bolt. The few others that I have seen they don't even remove the spark plugs and they struggle a little despite the large wrench they were using. Glad I saw your method here! Smart idea. Thanks for another helpful video (even though this one's almost 5 years old). Keep them coming!
Bro, because of you and the PLETHORA of knowledge you have provided me pertaining to my 98 Accord I have learned a crazy amount! I will continue to buy Honda because they are not only great cars, but I now have a frigin reference site to go to each time I have any issues. THANKS THANKS THANKS! Power through.
@EricTheCarGuy - We did it! With you help and me figuring out what I did wrong (From 1 valve I went to 4 when I should have went to 3 instead) Correct order 1 - 3 - 4 - 2. Thank YOU very much for encouraging me to do it myself by posting your video. The car hums and revs beautily now. No noise either. :) Thanks Eric! YEAH!!!!
just have to say this is an amazing engine I have an f22b1 in my accord . tried to do a vlv adj at 150k but they where in specks tried again at 250k still in. at 450k I made them slightly tighter. probable didn't have to but I got tired of taking the vlv cover off for no reason. love the shit out of this 2.2
I am glad to know about this procedure now! It appears to be a simple, fun procedure, yet requires practice of course! If I come across somebody with a honda, I can inform them about this, and recommend your video. Mike
you're such a cool guy. i came here to find out what vtech was and this was completely the wrong video. but i stayed just because how interesting you were. good job
Yes I have used it to diagnose a problem such as a sticking caliper but you have to be careful doing this and not drive on the road when you have a brake line clamped.
Had to work on a totally different engine (Yama 250), but from your video I was able to determine where to measure with the feelers (valves were badly out of adjustment, zero gap (.003-.005 are specs)), so thanks a lot!
@Collins328 I wish I could have posted your entire comment as my comment of the day but I'm glad I got what I did. It's one thing to be recognized by the DIYer that watch my videos but quite another to be recognized by a technician and instructor such as yourself, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your comment, thanks.
Lol no kidding, local shop charges $260. I bought the valve cover gasket(also came with spark plug gaskets) and the adjustment tool and feeler gauges for $30. This saved me $230. The stealership would of charged way more.
Great video! seems easy enough. Looks like the trickiest part is making sure cam lobe position is correct but I think I can figure that out by moving it back and forth etc... Very thankful Eric! Cheers
@somenutjob I did a video on EGR cleaning that you might want to check out. Cleaning the intake valves was not really a part of what I was describing in the video. If I get a DOHC in the shop I'd be happy to make a video. Thanks for the comment.
That's going to be a full length video that will include these videos as well as some more in depth and longer procedures, it will be available on the ETCG website sometime in 2010.
i love your videos. i been working on my 94 civic vx and restoring it back to its great milage. iv almost done everything i can on the car with your vids in figuring out its hesitation problem after warmup while cruising. if this valve adjustment doesnt do it im hoping a new distributor will keep up the awesome vids!
@dreadiel They don't often go bad on Honda's in my experience so I don't see much of an opportunity to make that video anytime soon but if one comes in I'll be happy to make a video for you should time permit. Thanks for your comment.
Great video, Eric. Instead of a wrench on the power steering pump, try doing it automatically. Pick up a Pedal-It from Ciccarone Racing Products. You connect it to the starter, and step on the pedal. It will turn the motor over for you automatically.
@dreadiel Even on other makes it's not often I find just the valve seals that are bad, if I do find bad valve seals it's often on a poorly maintained engine and other things are worn and leaking as well. Thanks very much for your comments.
You could but keep in mind the measurement is done hot, this creates an interesting challenge when doing the job as well as the math that needs to be done to get the correct shim, get it wrong and your doing the job all over again.
@drumist1989 Not all valves are adjusted cold for that very reason, in fact most of them are actually adjusted hot. I made the cold distinction because that is what Honda wants. Excellent point, thanks for your comment.
@nobo631 The videos I make are based on what comes into my shop so it's hard to fill requests like yours because I have to wait for the same car to show up with the same problem and I need time to shoot the video. That said if one does show up I'd be happy to try and make a video for you. Thanks for your request.
Hey, just wanted to say that I appreciate the effort you put forth into making these videos. I know the time and work it must take beyond the jobs you do to make these and make them as well as you do. As an ASE certified Tech, I can tell you've been doing for a while and you really do know what you are doing. I'm working as an Instructor for a local Tech College now and some of my students have been asking about videos and resources they can access at home. I will definitely suggest your videos.
It is a good engine. It does have a couple of faults. One being the balance shaft seal that has a tendency to pop out and cause a massive oil leak, easily fixed with the retainer. The other is the oil leaks that sometimes develop at the distributor and oil pan. It will outlast the car in most cases.
I've never had much luck with those. After working at the dealer and seeing what they use, it blows everything else away, especially electrical manuals.
@chuleta201 To be honest I'm just good at making videos, there are a lot of mechanics out there that know more than me, where do you think I learned from? Thanks for the comment.
Good job eric. I have a accord 1996 rare wagon my self. The only one in Suriname..south america with a F22b double camshaft... And when its hot, normal hot.. It shuts down.. I did alot like changing sensors, adjusting throttle, nothing helps much except for those sensors, they turned off the check engine light... so the last thing left is that adjustment.... Thanks bro.. Im tuned.. Stay dirty💪
@csidaznigga That was turning the engine over so that I could adjust the valves. The timing belt is never removed from the cam so there is no worry of it coming out of time. You might want to watch the valve adjustment video that I did for more info on that.
@MBCamaro95 If your valves are noisy that I would say go ahead but to be honest as I said in the video this is a 'fine tuning' exorcize and if your not practiced at it you can actually make things worse. Consider that before you make the attempt.
I don't think there is anything like your talking about but I don't know for sure. Sometimes you just have to eliminate everything else and go with your best guess. I've tested the resistance on coils that were bad that tested good, I think the only way to know if a coil is good or bad is to observe it under load. Come to think of it an old Sun machine might work but I haven't seen one of those in years.
just came across eric the car guy first time seeing your vids and ive probably watched about 10 of them. Very informative and on the money thanks for your info and knowledge gives better ideas on how to go about doing the job its like ALLDATA on youtube lol keep up the good work bro
No, that's just a dust seal for the timing cover. The balance shaft seal is on the front of the engine toward the front of the car under the timing cover. It's driven by the secondary timing belt and is the only other removable seal on the front of the engine besides the cam and crank seals.
@hondaslave The idle air control valve not the intake valve. You can remove it from the intake and clean the screen that goes to it and it helps smooth out the idle.
Water boils at 212ºF, seam is water that is above that temperature at atmospheric pressure. In other words steam is water that is hotter than liquid water. I recommend only using an OE thermostat in a Honda.
Timing chain has a hydraulic oil psi adjuster, once it runs out of travel the chain starts to smack the inside of the cover and causes the valve train to get noisy. I'm not saying this is the problem for sure but it's worth checking out. It's really not that bad a job since you have the room because it's a truck. If you end up having to replace it get a good chain, not one in a plain white box. Believe it or not but I think replacing the chain is easier than adjusting the valves.
@cmk61991 Yea that's pretty useless in my opinion, I try to make videos that I would want to watch, I figure if I don't like it why should you? Thanks for the comment.
You should do one for flat tappet engines though (like old school chevy small blocks), I actually went through that process about 6 months ago and wished you had a video like this for that procedure!!!
Great video. Noticed that the feeler gage caption during the video was .010" + .012". May need to remind people: eng compart label states mm not inches. Folks, pls understand that valves need to be on their seats to transfer heat from the valve head to cylinder head to keep the valve "cool." An exhst valve set too tight prevents the valve from closing, contacting its seat, transf heat, causing a burned valve. Applies to both valves but especially the hotter exhaust valve. Adj tool works!!
@josefernandogamboa I'm sure the cause is that the cam is not positioned on the base circle, I like to physically look at each cam lobe as I adjust to make sure it is on the base circle before doing the adjustment.
@myadler Perhaps not, if it's a manual and the wheels are on the ground you will need to put it in neutral first. I've also tightened the belt a little to make it work better in the past.
@photo2u Valve adjustments take time to master don't expect to get it right the first time you do one. The rule is "it's better to hear them than smell them", meaning that it's better to get them loose and loud instead of tight and possibly burn them up.
There is a special tool that can be plugged into the cig lighter that will keep the radio memory. Never work on a starter or alternator without first disconnecting the negative battery cable though.
Hello Eric, thank you for the time into these videos, you have made me save $$$. I'm a bit scared to turn on the engine as I didn't noticed that you were turning the Power Steering Pulley counter-clockwise and I just saw your video again to make sure I don't miss anything and I'm afraid to have bent valves. PLEASE HELLPPPPP!
@shumuss I don't. ONLY use the oil that is recommended for your engine and do not put thicker oil in, if you do it can starve the top end of the engine for oil on start up especially in colder weather, in short you can accelerate the wear on your engine if you do that.
@fox8950 Not really, the belt just slips over the pulley. If you leave the plugs in your working against the compression of the engine as you try and turn it over.
@toyota339 This engine is actually an overhead cam engine. You adjust valves on solid cam systems. Cams are divided into 2 types, solid and hydraulic. 90% of what is out there is hydraulic and does not require adjustment, solid cams like this one do require periodic adjustment if it's an overhead cam system OR if it's a regular pushrod system, where the cam is located is not important the type is however.
Thank you so much. I just got the truck back last night. Since it has a 4 speed manuel trans it has to run at a higher RPM on the freeway then a 5 speed and I can REALLy hear the valve on the highway. They sound like cassenettes lol.
Being an older truck it might not set a code for a "lazy" O2 sensor. You could hook up a volt meter and see how it does when the engine is running. It should switch from rich to lean rather quickly (about .5V to .95V), if not replace it and that might help it from running so rich.
Thanks gave me the confidence to successfully adjust mine :) turned a paranoid beginning into success.Thanks for youre easy go manner,makes for better understanding.
Eric is the man! Great video. Other write-ups I have seen have people taking off the top of the timing belt cover just to find top dead center, so your video saved me a ton of work. One tip I would like to offer, when you have the valve cover off, you can see the camshaft sprocket and they thoughtfully also put an arrow on this side for TDC, so you can easily set it up for #1, then crank it 90 degrees counterclockwise to do # 3, then 90 degrees again for # 4, and 90 degrees for # 2. Easy!
Just about all compressed air has water in it. You can install a dryer at the compressor outlet to help minimize this. Also regularly drain air hoses to keep the stuff out of your air tools. In addition you should drain the compressor tank every night to prolong it's life.
@sonofseasia I'm not sure I understand the issue but sometimes the screw gets stuck inside the nut and you have to free it in order to make the adjustment. BTW valve adjustments are an EXACT science if you get it wrong you run the risk of burning up the valves which means you will have to remove the head to replace them.
Thanks for the comment. You have what is referred to as "hydraulic lifters" in that engine, not "solid" like what is in the video. Thing is you can't just replace the lifters, they come in a set with a new cam. Also, if it's to the point where they are very noisy it may be too late anyway because the engine may be worn excessively causing the problem in the first place. You could go through a lot of time and effort for nothing.
That engine is similar to this one but it has roller rockers and VTEC on the intake valves, the procedure is the same however, good luck and thanks for watching.
Thanks again Eric for a very informative video. I just purchased a 91 Accord wagon with a very loud valve tick, and thanks to this video, it now runs as dead silent as my '90 Accord coupe. This was a great video for anyone needing to do this job. I got it right on the first try.
I am 15 years old....and i love working on cars with my uncle...and you are teaching me alot of new things....thank you!!!!!
I respect that, thanks for that little bit of clarification. In my career as a technician I've encountered a few techs that I just didn't agree with, it's the reason I made Episode 1. The fact that you ask as many questions as you do says to me that you have an interest in doing the best you can do, in my book that makes for an excellent technician. Go with your gut and keep pursuing the best answer and remember no one person has them all.
i love how Bill Burr shouted you out on the last joe rogan podcast
Which one?
Great job of explaining what could be very complicated. I'm 75 year old, woman, and a natural redhead. I only mention that b'cuz it explains how we differ from most women. We possess a dogged determination to succeed at something simply because we've ben told that we we won't be! Anyway, I have been working on my 1992 Honda Accord LX Station Wagon, since I got it, 21 years ago. I started doing my own vehicle maintenance and repair in 2001, after I got screwed over on 2 tune-ups on my 1991 Winnebago, on a Chevy chassis. Every time I got it back, within a week it was running just as bad as it was before I had the tune-up done. To be brief, I hung upside down in the passenger seat, pulled the distributor cap and rotor, and the spark plugs, and discovered that the plugs were original, from the factory, ( they had blue paint on the bottoms. My dad worked for GM, and told me, once that is how you can tell if a used vehicle has had general maintenance; paint on the plugs, not a good sign unless the vehicle is only 2 years or less) ! The distributor cap was cracked and the ignition points were black with carbon! Guessing it was original, too! I was a single mom, angry as ----, and vowed this would never happen again! As it turned out, this model and generation of Accord was one of the best for high milage with few major repairs, over time. Easy to repair, too. I am also fortunate to have a son that has been an assistant manager in Honda parts, for over 20 years. I considered getting a newer vehicle, a couple of years ago, but the particular Honda Odyssey I wanted was never for sale, at the priceI was looking for. Now that used cars have doubled or tripled in value, I've decided to fix my wagon up, and keep driving it. It only has 214,000 miles on it. My youngest son had a 1991 EX Wagon with 500,000 miles on it. He sold it to another one of my son's, in 2007, when the FIT came out. That '91 Wagon is still being used at my son's vineyard, 14 years later, so I'm sure, if you keep making those great DIY maintenance and repair videos, for the 4th generation Accord's, I can keep mine running like new. I was fortunate to find used one that was not driven where they use salt on the roads. Right after I bought it, I got recruited to work in South Texas, and direturn to the Midwest until 2014, so, outside of the Honda, "oops" rust, on the rear quarter panels, there's very little body rust. I'm going to learn how to use a MIG welder, this summer, so I'm hoping to do some fixing on the body. Sorry for the long comment. Keep up the great video's!
I freaking loved reading this comment... What a cool story you have. You remind me of a cousin of mine, one of my favorite people. Rock on lady! 🍻
Thank you Eric for the detailed straight forward video made in 2009.Just finished with water pump and timing belt replacement on my 1986 civic si. I followed the my honda shop manual and adjusted the valves accordingly. The car sounded like a diesel after the first and 2nd adjustments.Felt really frustrated then I saw your video and did it the master honda technician way and my very first car is now purring like a little kitten and happy again. Thank you so much brother for sharing your wealth of knowledge. Keep Wrenching.
Eric I have to thank you for this video as it did encourage me to the valve adjustment on my accord, the same generation with the same engine (F23A1) as the one in your video...
HOWEVER, the way the Honda Service Manual tells you to adjust the valves on the F23A1 engine leaves the lobes pointing to the front of the car and the base circle towards the back, as if you have to adjust the valves with the lobes at a 270 degree angle (lobes pointing up being 0 degrees and turning clockwise). An easier way to tell if they're in the right position for each cylinder would be to take out the two 10mm screws holding the timing belt cover around the cam gear. The cam gear will have an 'UP' indicator on its side which should be facing TOP DEAD CENTER (or Up) for the valve adjustment for cylinder 1. When positioning the Up indicator, please keep in mind the engine is in the car at a bit on an angle and try to turn 90 degrees relative to the angle the engine is tilted in. Turn the crankshaft 90 degrees counterclockwise so that the UP indicator is pointing to the front of the car to adjust cylinder 3. Turn 90 deg CC again to make UP point down to adjust cylinder 4. Turn once more 90 deg counterclockwise to make UP point towards the cabin of the car.
I adjusted the valves to Eric's method and ended up with a very shaky, stuttering idle. I turned the car off and tried again the next day by the service manual's description and have my car running happily again. I may not be done since there is still a slight tick audible but less than before.
I didn't write this to crap on your tutorial Eric. Really, it did help in making the process much less nerve-wracking. I am only posting this so that others do not panic and think they broke something with their Accord and the valve lash is simply off
@Adrian McDowell F22A is SOHC, 16 valves, non-VTEC
Yes, I had noo idea what I was doing when I started doing this either, it took years of practice before I became confident in what I was doing.
TWELVE YEARS LATER AND THE FIRST THING I SAY IS SHIT ERIC IS ONE OF THE BEST 😂
Made all the difference, at high rpm. Super smooth and a little more power!!! Thanks so much for the info!!! 263000 and it runs like new!!!
I was kind of nervous about doing a valve adjustment, hence searching for and finding your video. But this is almost exactly like changing and touching off tools on a swiss lathe, which I can do in my sleep. I am still going to watch a few more times and find more instructional resources but I am way more confident now. Thanks.
I just tried it today. My accord is running a bit smoother now, and seems to start better as well. Didn't do a perfect job apparently, but ended up with better than what I had before. Maybe there are other problems keeping it from running really smoothly, but I'll watch your other vids and get that all sorted out. Thanks for the help, Eric!
Me and my 91 prelude thanks you for this video. Words can't describe how nice it is not hearing the engine clattering anymore.
“Hard to get experience without trying” 4:05
Or “how you gonna get experience without trying” 😅🔥😅
So i adjusted my valves, got new spark plugs and adjusted my timing. Took me like 4hrs but now my car is running smooth. It wouldn't have taken as long if i bought that tool that you have to adjust them. Thanks for the video eric.
1993 civic d15b7
I really like how you dont just skip over 'in between' parts, instead just fast forwarding so you at least see whats being done. Keep up the great work!
That was the best adventure I've been on, thanks dora!
I have an old Renault 4L and it smokes only when going uphill. after a lot of research I figure it could be the valves. going to give a it a try and set the gap after watching your video. thanks for being so thorough with your explanations, you make it easy to follow
Eric I love your videos it’s always refreshing to see the way other guys work and it’s obvious you are a very experienced Honda mechanic! I always pick up a couple pointers watching your videos, I like to think I could figure things out on my own but your hints and tricks they make me a better mechanic and I love these cars more every day. Keep it up!
you have helped me alot in so many's ways over all 800 bucks saved. thanks to you i do everything myself to my 92 accord. it runs like nobody's business. one time i let mechanics touch my car only becuase it was winter and i didnt have a garage. so i let them change my pads and rotors. this is my first car and i love the thing to death. cb7 :) thanks ericthecarguy
Hello there, Mr. Eric. I have a '98 Civic with the D16Y7 engine, needs an adjustment badly. In other videos I've seen, the person takes the front left wheel off, sticks a very long extension in there to turn the engine over via the crank bolt. The few others that I have seen they don't even remove the spark plugs and they struggle a little despite the large wrench they were using. Glad I saw your method here! Smart idea. Thanks for another helpful video (even though this one's almost 5 years old). Keep them coming!
@EricTheCarGuy I figured everything out and it runs better than ever. Thanks for your help!
Glad you got something from it, thanks for watching.
Bro, because of you and the PLETHORA of knowledge you have provided me pertaining to my 98 Accord I have learned a crazy amount! I will continue to buy Honda because they are not only great cars, but I now have a frigin reference site to go to each time I have any issues. THANKS THANKS THANKS! Power through.
I recently had to buy a Lawnmower (00 Accord Poverty trim) so glad you made these videos for me.
@EricTheCarGuy - We did it! With you help and me figuring out what I did wrong (From 1 valve I went to 4 when I should have went to 3 instead) Correct order 1 - 3 - 4 - 2. Thank YOU very much for encouraging me to do it myself by posting your video. The car hums and revs beautily now. No noise either. :) Thanks Eric! YEAH!!!!
no other video stresses the engine being cool when the work is done...
this guy knows how it's done/properly.
Great explanation and illustration. I just replaced spark plug tube seals on my '96 Accord and am headed outside for valve adjustment. Thanks!
just have to say this is an amazing engine I have an f22b1 in my accord . tried to do a vlv adj at 150k but they where in specks tried again at 250k still in. at 450k I made them slightly tighter. probable didn't have to but I got tired of taking the vlv cover off for no reason. love the shit out of this 2.2
I am glad to know about this procedure now! It appears to be a simple, fun procedure, yet requires practice of course! If I come across somebody with a honda, I can inform them about this, and recommend your video.
Mike
you're such a cool guy. i came here to find out what vtech was and this was completely the wrong video. but i stayed just because how interesting you were.
good job
Yes I have used it to diagnose a problem such as a sticking caliper but you have to be careful doing this and not drive on the road when you have a brake line clamped.
Had to work on a totally different engine (Yama 250), but from your video I was able to determine where to measure with the feelers (valves were badly out of adjustment, zero gap (.003-.005 are specs)), so thanks a lot!
@Collins328 I wish I could have posted your entire comment as my comment of the day but I'm glad I got what I did. It's one thing to be recognized by the DIYer that watch my videos but quite another to be recognized by a technician and instructor such as yourself, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your comment, thanks.
@TheArson7 I love comments like this. I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.
@eulluisgtr34 Glad I could help, thanks for the comment. Adjusting valves can take some getting used to no matter what tool you use.
That's great to hear, the entire reason I started making these videos was to save people some money, these are hard times indeed. Thanks for watching.
Lol no kidding, local shop charges $260. I bought the valve cover gasket(also came with spark plug gaskets) and the adjustment tool and feeler gauges for $30. This saved me $230. The stealership would of charged way more.
This man is on point with allll of his videos. Shoutout to you. Great video yet again. @EricTheCaGuy
Thank you for making the comment about the spark plug tubes. I had no idea they were threaded. I'm doing a updated head swap on my Honda.
Great video! seems easy enough. Looks like the trickiest part is making sure cam lobe position is correct but I think I can figure that out by moving it back and forth etc... Very thankful Eric! Cheers
@somenutjob I did a video on EGR cleaning that you might want to check out. Cleaning the intake valves was not really a part of what I was describing in the video. If I get a DOHC in the shop I'd be happy to make a video. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks Eric! You the man when it comes to needing a video for a car repair job.
That's going to be a full length video that will include these videos as well as some more in depth and longer procedures, it will be available on the ETCG website sometime in 2010.
i love your videos. i been working on my 94 civic vx and restoring it back to its great milage. iv almost done everything i can on the car with your vids in figuring out its hesitation problem after warmup while cruising. if this valve adjustment doesnt do it im hoping a new distributor will
keep up the awesome vids!
@dreadiel They don't often go bad on Honda's in my experience so I don't see much of an opportunity to make that video anytime soon but if one comes in I'll be happy to make a video for you should time permit. Thanks for your comment.
Great video, Eric. Instead of a wrench on the power steering pump, try doing it automatically. Pick up a Pedal-It from Ciccarone Racing Products. You connect it to the starter, and step on the pedal. It will turn the motor over for you automatically.
Man, that trick with turning by the power steering pump... that's cool as hell. Saves removing the wheel and timing cover!
ditto
@dreadiel Even on other makes it's not often I find just the valve seals that are bad, if I do find bad valve seals it's often on a poorly maintained engine and other things are worn and leaking as well. Thanks very much for your comments.
Great video, Eric thanks for the knowledge. Your videos greadly help me keep my 95 accord alive
@shihanctb Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the comment.
You could but keep in mind the measurement is done hot, this creates an interesting challenge when doing the job as well as the math that needs to be done to get the correct shim, get it wrong and your doing the job all over again.
@drumist1989 Not all valves are adjusted cold for that very reason, in fact most of them are actually adjusted hot. I made the cold distinction because that is what Honda wants. Excellent point, thanks for your comment.
@nobo631 The videos I make are based on what comes into my shop so it's hard to fill requests like yours because I have to wait for the same car to show up with the same problem and I need time to shoot the video. That said if one does show up I'd be happy to try and make a video for you.
Thanks for your request.
@BidibodiBidubu We try to entertain as well as educate. Mostly I try not to take myself too seriously. Thanks for the comment.
@Q8ROTARY You might also want to get a new valve cover gasket, you might need it. Kuwait, cool. Thanks for watching and the comment.
@StealthNinjaX2 Only a tiny dab at the corners that go over the cam as I showed in the video, any more is too much and will just make a mess.
Hey, just wanted to say that I appreciate the effort you put forth into making these videos. I know the time and work it must take beyond the jobs you do to make these and make them as well as you do. As an ASE certified Tech, I can tell you've been doing for a while and you really do know what you are doing. I'm working as an Instructor for a local Tech College now and some of my students have been asking about videos and resources they can access at home. I will definitely suggest your videos.
It is a good engine. It does have a couple of faults. One being the balance shaft seal that has a tendency to pop out and cause a massive oil leak, easily fixed with the retainer. The other is the oil leaks that sometimes develop at the distributor and oil pan. It will outlast the car in most cases.
I've never had much luck with those. After working at the dealer and seeing what they use, it blows everything else away, especially electrical manuals.
@chuleta201 To be honest I'm just good at making videos, there are a lot of mechanics out there that know more than me, where do you think I learned from? Thanks for the comment.
Good job eric.
I have a accord 1996 rare wagon my self.
The only one in Suriname..south america with a F22b double camshaft...
And when its hot, normal hot..
It shuts down..
I did alot like changing sensors, adjusting throttle, nothing helps much except for those sensors, they turned off the check engine light... so the last thing left is that adjustment....
Thanks bro..
Im tuned..
Stay dirty💪
@utrahaearn It's not bad once you get used to it. Thanks for the comment.
@csidaznigga That was turning the engine over so that I could adjust the valves. The timing belt is never removed from the cam so there is no worry of it coming out of time. You might want to watch the valve adjustment video that I did for more info on that.
@MBCamaro95 If your valves are noisy that I would say go ahead but to be honest as I said in the video this is a 'fine tuning' exorcize and if your not practiced at it you can actually make things worse. Consider that before you make the attempt.
I don't think there is anything like your talking about but I don't know for sure. Sometimes you just have to eliminate everything else and go with your best guess. I've tested the resistance on coils that were bad that tested good, I think the only way to know if a coil is good or bad is to observe it under load. Come to think of it an old Sun machine might work but I haven't seen one of those in years.
just came across eric the car guy first time seeing your vids and ive probably watched about 10 of them. Very informative and on the money thanks for your info and knowledge gives better ideas on how to go about doing the job its like ALLDATA on youtube lol keep up the good work bro
No, that's just a dust seal for the timing cover. The balance shaft seal is on the front of the engine toward the front of the car under the timing cover. It's driven by the secondary timing belt and is the only other removable seal on the front of the engine besides the cam and crank seals.
@hondaslave The idle air control valve not the intake valve. You can remove it from the intake and clean the screen that goes to it and it helps smooth out the idle.
Water boils at 212ºF, seam is water that is above that temperature at atmospheric pressure. In other words steam is water that is hotter than liquid water. I recommend only using an OE thermostat in a Honda.
Mechanical issues can cause a spongy brake pedal, one of them is rust buildup on the back of a brake pad.
Timing chain has a hydraulic oil psi adjuster, once it runs out of travel the chain starts to smack the inside of the cover and causes the valve train to get noisy. I'm not saying this is the problem for sure but it's worth checking out. It's really not that bad a job since you have the room because it's a truck. If you end up having to replace it get a good chain, not one in a plain white box. Believe it or not but I think replacing the chain is easier than adjusting the valves.
@cmk61991 Yea that's pretty useless in my opinion, I try to make videos that I would want to watch, I figure if I don't like it why should you? Thanks for the comment.
@bigav27 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
Thanks Eric! Always great in depth explanations of the process
You should do one for flat tappet engines though (like old school chevy small blocks), I actually went through that process about 6 months ago and wished you had a video like this for that procedure!!!
Great video. Noticed that the feeler gage caption during the video was .010" + .012". May need to remind people: eng compart label states mm not inches. Folks, pls understand that valves need to be on their seats to transfer heat from the valve head to cylinder head to keep the valve "cool." An exhst valve set too tight prevents the valve from closing, contacting its seat, transf heat, causing a burned valve. Applies to both valves but especially the hotter exhaust valve. Adj tool works!!
“You are the man/woman or WHATEVER” 🤣 🤣. Great video and explanation, sub earned, thanks!
@josefernandogamboa I'm sure the cause is that the cam is not positioned on the base circle, I like to physically look at each cam lobe as I adjust to make sure it is on the base circle before doing the adjustment.
Without fuel pressure the fuel injectors cycle but don't have any fuel coming out of them, the ECU sees this and sets that code.
@myadler Perhaps not, if it's a manual and the wheels are on the ground you will need to put it in neutral first. I've also tightened the belt a little to make it work better in the past.
Puts me in mind of adjusting old VW valves without laying on your back. Simple procedure either way.
Thanks ETCG
@photo2u Valve adjustments take time to master don't expect to get it right the first time you do one. The rule is "it's better to hear them than smell them", meaning that it's better to get them loose and loud instead of tight and possibly burn them up.
There is a special tool that can be plugged into the cig lighter that will keep the radio memory. Never work on a starter or alternator without first disconnecting the negative battery cable though.
Hello Eric, thank you for the time into these videos, you have made me save $$$. I'm a bit scared to turn on the engine as I didn't noticed that you were turning the Power Steering Pulley counter-clockwise and I just saw your video again to make sure I don't miss anything and I'm afraid to have bent valves. PLEASE HELLPPPPP!
Engine always turns toward front of car as it would turn with the wheels.
@@thewrenchwoman Thank you very much!
@shumuss I don't. ONLY use the oil that is recommended for your engine and do not put thicker oil in, if you do it can starve the top end of the engine for oil on start up especially in colder weather, in short you can accelerate the wear on your engine if you do that.
@fox8950 Not really, the belt just slips over the pulley. If you leave the plugs in your working against the compression of the engine as you try and turn it over.
@nightmathzombieethan Yes as a matter of fact. It's 90min long and available from the ETCG website.
@toyota339 This engine is actually an overhead cam engine. You adjust valves on solid cam systems. Cams are divided into 2 types, solid and hydraulic. 90% of what is out there is hydraulic and does not require adjustment, solid cams like this one do require periodic adjustment if it's an overhead cam system OR if it's a regular pushrod system, where the cam is located is not important the type is however.
Turn it at the crank, I just use the PS pulley in this because it was easy to get to on this car.
@90onenight Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.
Thank you so much. I just got the truck back last night. Since it has a 4 speed manuel trans it has to run at a higher RPM on the freeway then a 5 speed and I can REALLy hear the valve on the highway. They sound like cassenettes lol.
Being an older truck it might not set a code for a "lazy" O2 sensor. You could hook up a volt meter and see how it does when the engine is running. It should switch from rich to lean rather quickly (about .5V to .95V), if not replace it and that might help it from running so rich.
@stonent I was just about to mention the Mitsubishi contingent of may Chrysler engines but you beat me to it. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks gave me the confidence to successfully adjust mine :) turned a paranoid beginning into success.Thanks for youre easy go manner,makes for better understanding.
Eric is the man! Great video. Other write-ups I have seen have people taking off the top of the timing belt cover just to find top dead center, so your video saved me a ton of work. One tip I would like to offer, when you have the valve cover off, you can see the camshaft sprocket and they thoughtfully also put an arrow on this side for TDC, so you can easily set it up for #1, then crank it 90 degrees counterclockwise to do # 3, then 90 degrees again for # 4, and 90 degrees for # 2. Easy!
Just about all compressed air has water in it. You can install a dryer at the compressor outlet to help minimize this. Also regularly drain air hoses to keep the stuff out of your air tools. In addition you should drain the compressor tank every night to prolong it's life.
@sonofseasia I'm not sure I understand the issue but sometimes the screw gets stuck inside the nut and you have to free it in order to make the adjustment. BTW valve adjustments are an EXACT science if you get it wrong you run the risk of burning up the valves which means you will have to remove the head to replace them.
You can replace the stud no problem, they are only available from the dealer however. You might find one at a pull and pay if they let you take it.
Thanks for the comment. You have what is referred to as "hydraulic lifters" in that engine, not "solid" like what is in the video. Thing is you can't just replace the lifters, they come in a set with a new cam. Also, if it's to the point where they are very noisy it may be too late anyway because the engine may be worn excessively causing the problem in the first place. You could go through a lot of time and effort for nothing.
You can plug up the spark plug hole with a piece of rubber or tissue that will blow out when it is on the compression stroke.
That engine is similar to this one but it has roller rockers and VTEC on the intake valves, the procedure is the same however, good luck and thanks for watching.