Honda K Series Fail, What Went Wrong?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- Not long ago I posted a short series of videos replacing the 2.4L K series engine in my, new to me, 2005 Honda Element. Many of you asked about what went wrong with the engine. In this video I tear the K series apart to find out why it didn’t have compression in cylinder #2. I also add useful info on timing chain replacement, as well as some other common issues to look out for on the Honda K series engine.
For those of you that want the engine, sorry, it's already been taken away. Thanks for your interest.
Thanks for watching!
#ETCGVideo #Engine #KSeries
Become a Premium Member of EricTheCarGuy.com: www.ericthecar...
My Patreon Account: / ericthecarguy
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
EricTheCarGuy FAQ Page: www.ericthecar...
Check out my ETCG1 channel: www.youtube.co...
Tools
Cylinder Head Stands: www.summitraci...
Spring Compressor Extension for recessed valves: 07757-PJ1010A: www.hondacarpa...
Oil Filter Cutter: www.summitraci...
Milwaukee 1/2”: milwaukeetool....
Brake Cleaner Sprayer: www.jbtoolsale...
Brake Cleaner: www.amazon.com...
Related Videos
Honda Element Engine Replacement and Restoration (Part 1): • Honda Element Engine R...
Honda Element Engine Replacement and Restoration (Part 2): • Honda Element Engine R...
I Just Bought 2 Honda Elements: • I Just Bought 2 Honda ...
Fixing Up My Brothers Rusty Element: • Fixing Up My Brothers ...
Mechanics Special 2000 Honda Civic: • Mechanic Special 2000 ...
1999 Honda Civic Engine Replacement: • 1999 Honda Civic Engin...
What is VTEC and How it Works: • What is VTEC and How D...
iVTEC and How it Works: • iVTEC How it Works -Er...
How To Remove and Replace Valves in a Cylinder Head: • How To Remove and Repl...
How To Remove Valve Springs In the Car: • How To Remove Valve Sp...
Honda K Series Valve Adjustment: • Honda K Series Valve A...
K Swaps Good or Bad?: • K Swaps Good or Bad?
Element Video Playlist: • I Just Bought 2 Honda ...
**Answers to your automotive questions found here: www.ericthecarg...
Social Network Links
Facebook: www.facebook.c...
Twitter: / ericthecarguy
Instagram: / ericthecarguy
Wanna see more stuff like this from ETCG? Information on Premium Membership: www.ericthecar...
Stay Dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.
The more I watch this guy, the more I like what he presents. He's unusually smart, articulate, and experienced. The unfortunate part for most of us, however, is there's not many "Eric's" out there for us to work with.
Tip for anyone wanting to take off and REUSE the head of your Kseries engine. (Like a head gasket replacement) DO NOT remove the cam bolt like Eric did by just unbolting them one by one, it WILL warp the assembly.
You have to take off the Cam bracket bolts and Head bolt in a specific and slow quarter turn cross pattern in order to prevent warping and having to take everything to a machine shop.
You’re right. Start in middle and work toward outside evenly on each side of middle
Hahaha!! “Without these, the VTEC can’t kick in, yo!!” Thanks Eric, great video, and as always - thanks for sharing with us!!
Had me dying lmao 😂
Watching you take this engine apart was like therapy for me.
valve seat recession and lack of cam follower clearance leading to low compression and other bad things.. very well explained Eric.
and like he said a valve adjustment was likely done (incorrectly).
That spring thing I learned from another youtuber is a bypass spring. If the filter element gets clogged the oil pressure can push it in and bypass. I guess the idea is that its better to let dirty oil through rather than starve the engine of oil.
The stamped steel spring is what opens the bypass valve when the filter clogs and can’t move oil through the element. It compresses and lets oil pass straight through in case of clogging.
On this filter, it only holds the filter element in place and has a hole in it so oil can get to the bypass valve, the bypass valve is built into the end cap of the filter media on this filter. The stamp spring has nothing to do with the actuation of the bypass valve, the bypass valve has it's own little coil spring that's designed to actuate the valve when the delta between the inlet side of the filter is too high either when the filter plugs or during a cold start when the oil is very thick and causes a very high pressure drop when it's forced through the media.
@@brandonupchurch7628 ur talking arse
Just bought a 2003 CRV with same K24A1 engine that supposedly had a bad #2 cylinder. I compression tested it myself and all 4 cylinders were above 180psi. Turns out all it needed was a new ignition coil. I went from thinking I needed to rebuild an engine to just needing a $40 ignition coil. Winning.
I love videos like this where I see how the cams and valves and spark plugs and cylinders etc, all come together in an engine. It's much better than looking at pictures in a book.
K Series is one of the best internal combustion engines ever manufactured.
Bit like the 1.9tdi pd
The best naturally aspirated that will ever exist possibly
Volkswagen is superior
@@tiberiusclaudiusnerogermanicis ew, pumpe duse. ALH ftw
Yeah clearly not 🙄
Did you watch the same video I just did?
Manual valve adjustments go way back to early 20th century! You'd think they'd upgrade by now 😆
A post-mortem on my favorite engine ever, the Honda K24. Thanks Eric!
I've also never seen a better explanation (show and tell) of why Honda valves require periodic adjustment.
Honda is not recommending it. Eric recommending it. Honda wins the argument.
@@adobo6905 engine burned up from NOT adjusting , Eric wins. Bad Honda design.
@@BigEightiesNewWave your logic is unmistakably accurate.
@@adobo6905 Honda actually does recommend it too...
@@A_guy840 I took my 2006 Odessey to a Honda dealer with 185000km and K24 engine for noisy lifters and I was told adjustment is not a part of scheduled preventive maintenance or nedded.
You are such a good teacher for auto problems. Thank you.
He is but i don't buy that a valve caused him to lose all compression it might of been his piston rings. He didn't test the other cylinders for leakage to see if it was normal for it to leak. Sometimes it IS normal and i had a machinist i knew who said it was fine for the valves to leak in a test because the amount of igniton cycles and speed causes them to seal. Its not accurate to do a test like that is what im saying.
That bottom end looks to still be serviceable; a good honing and fresh rings would do wonders for it! As for the cylinder head, it would make for a good core for a new head. (Whoever owned that element before you, was very likely RELIGIOUS with oil changes which is probably why it’s so clean inside)
yeah and whoever did the valve adjustment (probably some brand new tech at honda) fucked it up and ruined the exhaust valves. that is why doing the work yourself and taking your time at home is better than letting some high school flunkie do it at the honda dealership.
lot of the dealerships recruit people from stickers that they put on the oil filter.
@@SignalStopper perfectly daid my friend. You put my thoughts into words perfectly
The 2.4L and V6 engines 'tighten' valves clearance with usage, and adjustment is a must on them. But most likely the piston rings are also baked and with the increased temperature caused by burning oil the valves suffered as well - I did a few of these.
@@pliedtka Do your maintenance you won’t have an issue.
K Series, Best engine ever made by Honda imo.
maybe most powerful and advanced but the D series was their best most reliable design imo.
They’re bullet proof. Valve cover gaskets leak but not a big deal.
I agree ☝️
I love B16 and B18 engines, have owned a car with them. But have to agree. They are insanely good value for money, the can be a huge powerhouses or reliable daily driven cars. Not many engines can claim to be so versatile.
@@TheRebuilt1 b series over d series. D series will eventually have head gasket issues. But timing belts are a cinch to change.
You are such a wonderful father dear EricTheCarGuy. Your kids are very fortunate to have ya, sir!
Eric! I'm sending this video to both of my kids in the hope they watch the machine that is under their hood and have a better appreciation of what keeps working perfectly for them day after day, season after season, year after year - and why their dad is such a maniac about oil changes and filters! 2004 CRV and 2007 Element!
You might throw this one in as well: th-cam.com/video/saPGX-1qC4M/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment.
i literally just adjusted my valves on my j30 at 184k. all intake valves were loose and chattering, exhausts were nice and tight. back to spec and it sounds like new. thanks eric!
Excellent teardown! thanks Eric for sharing with the rest of us!
strange for a honda engine, i’ve had to do a valve adjustment on this same engine (K24A1, for a CR-V) at only ~60k miles. i essentially got an error code related to idling. and when the engine was cold, i would have problems with the engine dying when at a stop light.
i was proud of myself when i managed to fixed the problem myself.
i replaced an exhaust cam when i got my e at 320 000km(worn out lobe) did a valve set after watching your video, i checked my plugs a week later and found one running hot, watched your video again.. did the valve set again, and found i had one exhaust valve a little to snug, i just hit 400 000km and going strong on the original engine. very easy to to over do it lol Thanks for your help and all your info, fun videos to watch
Good lord, if I didn’t live in OREGON, I would already be at the shop waiting for you!!!! 🤣🤣🤣
After me!!!
Lol
Hello fellow PNW'er! And same, I'd love to tinker with a K24 but I've got an EP3 with K20a2(?) @ 240k miles that I've been waiting for to die, but it just won't!
Heck, even my previous Civic, 98 Hx wouldn't die (D16y8?). My sister ran it low (2qt+) on a 2000mile trip up from Cali (stripped drain bolt), and it burned horribly ever since. Went 2 years/32k miles without changing the oil, just topped it off every week. Figured it wouldn't hurt since it needed to be rebuilt anyway, car was a champ.
@@Chrislk1986 I'd love to have that K20a2 head if you decide to get rid of it.
@@johnsmothermon6856 My bad. It's actually an K20A3. I'd love an A2 as well.
Great video, Eric. Glad you’re not going to just junk that engine. Even with just a head rebuild, I’d think it’d continue to run for quite a while.
I have a cheap Renault car and I wanted to watch this just for knowledge and experience, and came out with a good observation that I should take care of in my engine which is valve adjustment. I know my engine repair manual recommends it but I was delaying it for not knowing what might happen. Thanks Eric.
Funny that I watch this video today and I went and bought a K24A2 this past Tuesday for $600 (I’m building a AWD Del Sol). Plus the fact I live in Georgia and it is a 10hr trip one way. Thanks for the great talking points Eric. I turn your channel on for background noise while I’m working on my corvette killers.
“Without these the vtec can’t kick in Yo.”😂☠️
Awesome video. Learned so much from you over the years
vtec doesnt kick in anyways on an A1 lol
Eric my 2003 honda element went 249000 miles. No problem I though these engines were bulletproof. And no I wasn't always light on the pedal. Yes I had the valves adjusted every 70 to 100 k. 😊👍
Thank you so much for this video, I just bought an 05 AWD element with 0 compression on cylinder 1. Did some tests and I’m sure it’s the exhaust valve. Trying to take the head off with the motor in the car and still working on it, one more good session and I should have it off.
I've had 4 elements, all still running like new and I have never seen or heard of a K series engine going bad under 200k [unless regular oil changes and maintenance were neglected] but even then it's rare... I would have just changed the valve out and run it for the next 100k... the K series are almost indestructible as we all know, that said I really enjoyed this series on the engine swap and learned a lot about my trusty ride... Cheers!
This is the best video I have seen yet. This is super helpful and very well explained. Thank you.
That engine looks like it's a perfect candidate for a full rebuild. You can pretty much turn that into a brand new engine that'll last forever.
@Faggot Rotten Yeah, but unless you're buying a crate engine, you don't know what you're getting.
I tried doing an engine tear down years ago on a 3TC engine from a Toyota Celica, I only got a third of the way there on such a simple engine.?
You mean another 180k miles. Maybe more, maybe less, but definitely not "forever".
@@rolandm9750 Nah, I mean forever, till the dinosaurs come again, and the martians start anal probing the giraffes.
these engines are crap. no actual VTEC and they're made for economy. wouldnt waste the money on fixing one when a whole replacement engine can be bought cheaply
I currently have a 2001 crv (b20z) with a dead cylinder as well...this video gives me some confidence and some ideas what to look for after pulling the head.. love the solvent in the upper chamber idea.. thanks so much eric, you have gotten me through six years of keeping the old dog on the road
-craig
Oh no....
I just noticed your name is Craig. I’ve got a B20b engine CRV. Engine is good though. Needs a timing belt and valve adjustment. I hope I get the valve lash right.
@@craigiefconcert6493 i think youll be fine... plenty of information out there.Just take your time and remember its better to leave them a little bit loose than tight. Personally I like to use a box wrench and scewdriver vs. the adjustment tool, cause you can see the position of the slot on the set screw as you tighten down the jam nut...good luck!
Really blessed to have Eric putting out all these videos on Honda Elements. Just happens to be my car.
Just changed the plugs on my crv 2005 and saw that plug 3 was pretty carbonized , car has 210k and never had a valve adjustment so Im going to surmise that might be exactly what a no valve adjustment issue may look like. Love your channel!!
I'm happy to see that the guide blades for the timing chain are mostly metal, unlike the GM Ecotech motor I had in my last car, an 04 Cavalier. I did a complete timing chain replacement in that car because the guide broke. Then I had to take the oil pan off to make sure no plastic parts landed in the oil....
When it comes to bolts and screws, when I worked as a mechanic decades ago, I built a container with partitioned to create pockets (with labels) to put bolts and stuff from different parts of the engine or transmission I was working on into as I took them out. That prevented someone or something from accidentally hitting the bolt groups and mixing them up. That enabled me or anyone who took over for me to know what was what and where it went. Putting it on the back of the bench lessened the possibility of the container accidentally being knocked off as well.
When it comes to work on the interior of a vehicle, I do the same thing but with one of those compartmentalized containers they sell for fishing lures, weights, etcetera. Taking something out of the dash or removing a seat, just put the screws and bolts for each different part into its own compartment then shut and snap the lid so that everything stays secure in its own compartment. Makes reassembly much easier when different dash screws are similar but still different enough they do no work in each others place as well.
Eric all you need to do is throw some aftermarket rods and pistons on that k24 block and get yourself a k20a2 head and slap that on that block and that’s the perfect set up to go in that extra civic
My plan is to hunt for an RSX Type S and take the engine and transmission from it for the Civic.
@@ericthecarguy that’s also a great idea, I did sort of the same on my last set up, I owned a 02 rsx type s that needed a lot of rust repair in the undercarriage and what I ended up doing was getting a 99 civic and took everything I needed out of my rsx and put it there, those engines are very rev happy and the power band on a light shell like the civic feels like a 300+hp car you will definitely have some fun with that thing on and off the street
"Id rather hear a valve than smell it."
Some advice I got from an old Honda tech on valve adjustments. Say the intake spec is 8-10 thou and the exhaust is 10 to 12, ill err on the loose side.
I wasn't planning on watching the whole video but Eric did it in such an entertaining way I really enjoyed it.
Me too
Very good of you to give that motor to someone who needs it. Kudos.
The usual thorough, well-explained videos I love on this channel, Eric. I learn bits in every one, so thank you once again.
Another great video! EricTheCarGuy has got to be my favorite TH-camr. The biggest reason is that he stays true to his roots. His videos are always informative, interesting, funny, and NOT clickbaity.
LOL! I just changed the plugs and coils on my 2003 Element with 197000 miles. I think the plugs were the originals. They were highly eroded. No more codes! It does use some oil, but I can live with it. I bought it 8 years ago for $6000 for .my daughter to learn to drive on. Now it's my daily driver. Here in the midwest it will probably rust apart before that engine dies. When it does I'll pull the engine and rebuild it. Now if Honda can just make a reliable 3.5......... Thanks Eric
I learn so much from watching your videos. Periodic Valve adjustment part of this video was very helpful.
Very informative. Although it is about an Element engine, this video teaches me a lot about the K24 in my own 2015 Accord Sport. Thanks ETCG!
It’s a shame that such a clean engine had issues. Also the burning oil is a bummer.
My 04 Accord 2.4 with 227k ran smooth as butter but drank oil like it was going out of style. My 05 I currently have with 127k, however, doesn’t burn a drop. It’s interesting how some just seem to develop those issues while others do not.
When you do find the right Kseries engine for the Civic we would love that swap video series.
I totaled my 02 Accord with a KA24 engine. If I knew you needed one for the civic I would have kept it for ya
"Without these, the V-tec can't kick in, yo!"
I laughed so hard I almost spilled my coffee 😂
Routine valve adjustments would’ve prevented that and used to be part of major services like 60K services. Honda claims that they aren’t necessary anymore unless they’re noisey. Tight valves aren’t noisey and therein lies the problem.
Actually, we were adjusting valves at 15K at the dealer back in the day. Totally excessive. I agree with Honda, they really only need adjusting if they are noisy. As I mentioned in the video, I've seen more issues like this that resulted from improper adjusting of the valves over the valves wearing out by themselves. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy do you recommend doing valve adjustments in a K20? or just leave them be. curious to get your opinion on it. I have a K20Z3 with 110k miles that runs very well.
My idol Eric the car guy.. He knows what he explain.. Smart and cool guy.
ive change my motor on my element twice with the same failure cylinder misfire 🤦🏻♂️ good video thank u
My CRV with K24 hasn't had an adjustment at all as far as i know and it's got 416k miles on it.
Holy crap! I have 304k. Your post gives me confidence to keep it.
If only you weren't so far, I'd pick this up to rebuild to replace the K24 in my CRV that's having similar oil consumption issues. Hopefully someone does something more interesting with it than what I would have!
Did a valve adjustment because of this video on my 2007 accord, 4 cyl. Two of the intake valves needed a slight adjustment. And two of the exhaust valve were way too tight.
Thanks Eric!
You have a great speaking voice .... Thank you for the education on this engine ...
The best analogy that can be used here is as follows: If you've never owned or maintained an Air-cooled engine, please do try and adjust vales on a Honda. It's not rocket science, but it does require knowledge of how feeler gauges are used when measuring the amount of drag while adjusting your valves.
Yep it was definitely consuming oil due to the worn valve guides. Those would need to be replaced.
“This video could double as a timing chain replacement tutorial.”
Me - Step 1, remove engine from car.
Step 1: Jack up the car.
😛
@@michaelblacktree true, true!
Step 1 remove the positive battery terminal 😁😁😁
@@michaelblacktree Good one, Moog...I mean, Mike. :-D
@@aussiebloke609 haha I remember that video. Wasnt he installing car speakers?
lots of great info for us kseries guys, thanks eric!
I've owned a bunch of Honda's including the K-series engines and I've never had any oil consumption with any of them. The only thing I can attribute to this is using premium synthetic oil with 5K mile changes. I also follow the scheduled maintenance jobs, particularly the "big" ones which include valve adjustments and replacement of plugs, coils, water pumps and thermostats. My VTEC solenoid switch screen filters have always been clean when I replace them at 100K mile intervals.
If you take care of your Honda, it will take care of you.
Looks just as good as when I built it ! Yes that piece of plastic belongs in the water jacket. It directs flow of coolant
Working for Honda for the billion years I have I hardly ever had to tear these down. I did do some chains because “typically Honda owners” take care of their cars. Which is why I have a pilot with 230k that runs phenomenal.
great to see what the issue was on this engine. I do believe it is worthy of a nice economical rebuild and get it back on the road. thanks Eric
This rebuild would be great to watch. Pt. 1, Pt. 2 etc. Don't need it all at once but I would love to watch rebuild.
Thanks for your info.
Good video @EricTheCarGuy
Very interesting. My Element has 215,000 miles, never adjusted the valves, runs great, as it gets old I kinda afraid to mess with stuff.
In the same boat with my CRV. Thing idles like an electric car. Afraid to adjust anything.
I had my Element’s valves adjusted a couple of weeks ago and it feels a lot stronger, 2nd valve adjustment first one done at 100k and the latest at 190. They did break a couple of bolts which I later discovered. Went back to honda who did the work and they were replaced at no charge. Really love this car.
What bolts did they break? I had my 01 Prelude in for a timing belt,tensioner and water pump at a Honda dealership in British Columbia. They broke a bolt off for the tensioner and of course it’s a special bolt that took a couple extra days to get in. 😎
Two rear bolts to the valve cover that i believe also reaches into the inatale manifold. They screw into the coil cover
It's unfortunate that they broke parts on your engine and didn't do anything about it at the dealer. The dealer should be the best place for service. It's unfortunate that's not always the case.
@@ericthecarguy the dealership here on Vancouver island did everything they could to get my car fixed after they broke the bolt,of course as you know Eric,that’s a special bolt on the tensioner and they didn’t have one in stock so they called other dealers and even auto wreckers on the island to no avail,so I had to wait a few days for one to get shipped from Toronto,all good now though,car runs great with only 177 thousand kms on it. 😎
@@ericthecarguy the dealer was the one that serviced it and they repaired it at no cost to me. I bought my car there in 2004 and always get it serviced there. Lucky for me I have a good relationship with the service manager.
I had a 1969 LeMans that consumed a quart of oil every 300 miles. When I disassembled the engine, the gap of the top 2 rings was perfect. The oil control rings had no tension...the cause of the oil consumption. I exchanged the heads for rebuilt heads, installed new rings and bearings, and after the engine was broken in, there was no oil consumption between oil changes.
Your Honda engine may have a similar issue with the oil control rings.
I love watching engine tear-down videos. Thanks, Eric! 👍
Fantastic video Eric, once again...
The Honda Master,King . 🔥💯💫
I really like the knowledge and work you put into this and share with us! I must confess I switched to electric a year ago, and for a daily driver, not having to think about all these potential issues issues is a bliss. I still would like to have a (proper) gas powered car as a hobby, and that's why I will keep watching your videos.
Electric is cool, but also has its drawbacks. I believe electric is just another version of the same thing we're dealing with with ICE. If we really want to address the environment, public transport is the way. Thanks for the comment.
I had a 1962 Studebaker Lark, it had BADLY worn cylinders BARREL shaped, I guess soft casting metal. Anyhoo, I went to a catalog called Warshawsky, Inc. And in there they sold among other things a kit in a can called Amazing Engine Overhaul, wax pellets that you put in sparkplug holes, these pellets were saturated with molybdenum disulfide, it also had a smaller can with Moly and Zinc-Dithiophosphate dissolved in motor oil.
I actually tried that stuff but on this engine it did not work, about .060 thousandths wear in the bores is just not going to be fixed without a tear down, might work on something a bit more realistic, but it made a great insect fogger. It would burn a quart of oil every half hour just idling, so I gathered up the neighbor hoods recycle oil and used it, I was a kid and it was 1968.
Same thing happened to my K24A2 CRX.
without these cted won't kick in yo. good one
Hey Eric. Thank's for another great video. Love the Honda video's. I've got a Honda accord Euro with the K24a3 engine which i purchased brand new in 2005. I had to replace the motor about 5 years ago at about 198,000 kms (engine was faulty from factory. So these video's help alot.
GREAT VIDEO !!!!! you could have cleaning the burned valve, so it shows better.
0:20 i'm pretty sure it K24A4 eric. great work. love ur video.
Yup! It is. Same engine from my 2003 Accord
My 05 crv lost cylinder #3 at 338,000 miles. The motor still runs but is tight. I looked down the spark plug hole and don't see real bad scratches. I did valve adjustment at 110k and 220k. Not sure what went wrong but its the end of the road for the old girl. Btw the AC was mint. I replaced the ac clutch last fall but otherwise it would freeze you on a 100f day.
Awesome video man. I’m a noob mechanic who loves Hondas, and I hate learning from the ricer guys on the internet where I don’t feel confident enough to do the job! I’ll be doing a valve lash adjustment soon on my K series. I’d rather hear em than smell em 😎
There is a very clean, good sized nick in the exhaust seat. A bit of debris may have been pinched between the valve and the seat and held the valve open, causing it to burn and lose compression.
Thanks for delving into this naughty motor.
I had the same experience with my wife's crv when I checked the fit of the valves and found that the space was less than the specification, where as normally we see a larger space.I did an inspection and adjustment at 100,000km I live in Canada(km)
Just did a budget build for my brothers integra.K24a4( same engine as this in video) used a type s 6 speed with 4,7 final drive. Definitely a fun street car . Torque is great top end not so much.
Bad valve adj would not account for oil. Check oil ring and it could be worn or installed wrong. (spreader ends overlapping). This is what happened in my 84 350 Suburban. Excess oil into a cylinder caused an exhaust valve to be isolated from its seat. The exhaust valve overheated and a hunk came out of it.
You could have that head sent out cleaned up , have the seats cut put new valves in it ,or do it yourself lap them in new guides seems like that’s all it needs, Put some rod bearings in it piston rings on it out I think it be good to go,possibly ...I just did an engine similar to that and I had virtually the same problem with a flat tappet cam , I just put a new valve and re-cut the seats , lapped in adjusted the valve lash , problem cured, look forward to a rebuild on this engine🙂🙂
Great video Eric.Do you know what the consumption rate was before tear down? The reason i asked was my Honda civic d15b7 1994 had 400,000 and started burning oil of 1 qt every 200 miles.i bought new pistons & rings std size.when i got it apart the bores still had a little crosshatch BUT the OIL return holes on the pistons were ALL plugged on all cylinders.I had gotten tired of oil changes>40 + changes.I ran a drill bit through the holes/ put the rings only from the new piston on the old ones and BALL HONED THE CLYs.Reassembled ,it now has 540,000.and went back to 1/2 qt every 7,000 miles.mine you i bought the care new.that year was great to me.
GOOD Diagnosis! Great job!
The oil control ring might be the the higher oil consumption. There's a YT video "Why the Honda K Series is the Best 4 Cylinder Engine" at 16:13 is where he goes over it.
Nothing like a good engine autopsy to make my weekend.
Wow at how clean that engine is in the inside for the mileage 😳🤯 @EricTheCarGuy
Fun to watch you take this engine apart with great ease and knowledge. Good video
Usually on Honda you would adjust the valves every time you change spark plugs which is recommended about 160,000 kilometers or 100,000 miles
With the way how the piston was moving in its bore, it most likey was burning oil from the rings, honing it would take it worse, after taking off some material from honing the piston would slap and cause the same blow by problem, the fix for the block is to bore out and re sleeve if you can, so you can go back with the same piston and new rings
Cool that you are going to give the engine away to a viewer, hope the person who gets it does something with it!
yea like toss it in the scrap pile where it belongs lol
@Eric your the man! Excellent breakdown.
Timing chain looks like good as it is.. also the chain guide rail..
Excellent breakdown. Thanks.
Hey Eric.........as long as been on you tube, your vids are great, this one is exception, thank you Sir...............and no I cannot get your engine in NZ but thanks for the offer
Very nice piece of reasoning Eric. Thank you for another great video. Love the part about the valves
Good video. Good decision on the K engine as well. Parts and machine work will be very close on almost any Honda engine. You only have so much time so spend it well on a more rewarding engine.
Great video Eric. Great upclose camera work. Goos stuff brother