fantastic success. if you do another one I'd love to see a modification to the handle into an S shape to make the clearance. maybe some acetylene torch action. keep on keepin' on with the great content.
i came here from the Tally Ho project . lots of comments on how to do this job . but more than one way to skin a cat. seems to me Keith did what he felt was best to prevent skinned knuckles/aggravation plus he entertained us in the process .good job thanks.
You are lucky to find a handle that only needed such a small modification. That is an amazing machine that you have kept from going to the scrap yard! You are sure getting a lot of use on that Marvel Saw! TM long time viewer
The original handle was probably an 'offset' handle, which has a kink in the middle to put it further away, kind of like a bridgeport Z axis handle. I looked for one of these at one point, and you couldn't seem to get any newly made ones other than in large numbers as custom castings. I ended up finding that Martin (who makes handles!) had made one in the past and found someone selling one, but I had to file the square hole myself!
When you started to run the Broach through the handle part I thought it was gonna be because it was a much harder metal as you stated while you were cutting it with the band saw.
Small job but having the right tools makes it easy . I'm 72 yrs old and still buying tools , I was planning on going to ARN fest this year but couldn't make it . I met you out there last year for the first time and mr. pete also . I did see your road trip video ,that was a heck of a trip . Thanks for the videos Keith .
Such small quality of life things are so satisfying. Every time you use it now it's like "ahhhh so much better!" A very good investment. It's fun to even watch someone else make such an improvement. Thanks for sharing. BTW, look at Mr Rucker manhandle that arbor press. Don't underestimate old man strength. :-)
I noticed the knee/anvil or whatever it's called was moving as he pulled down on the handle. I had visions of a very expensive broach breaking. Does something need to be tightened down there?
12:28 - The first time you broach a keyway, you will be amazed at your skill! Or at least, the function of the tools of those who have made them to do that job.
Glad to see you've gotten a handle on things... Now you just need to get an automatic lifter mechanism for the cutters return stroke. Something mentioned a lot on being so useful on these shaper cutting heads, but some reason never get made.
This was a fun little job. I don't see much of welding cast steel or using a square broach, so it was fun to watch. Thanks for the video Keith, I'm really glad you're doing videos full time now
Oh hey! The crank handle mod! Aahh yeah. I was waiting eagerly for this video. The whole metal planer video series has been pretty awesome. I do hope you use it as often you can if its the hot trick tool for a job.
SALUT I NOTICED THAT YOUR BAND SAW THE 2 ROLLERS BERING THAT HOLDS THE BLADE ARE LONGER THE BLADE NOT GOOD FOR THE PATH OF THE TOOTH THEY WILL CRUSH INSIDE THANKS FOR ALL THE VIDEOS THAT YOU SHOW US YOU ARE GOOD CONTINUOUS FROM CANADA
Very nice. That would totally drive you crazy. I'm slightly concerned about the arbor press. I could be completely wrong, but it seems like there's more flex than there should be.
I never have any luck parting off. I always end up breaking the tool. I have a high speed steel parting off tool and I am not sure if I am grinding them wrong or setting them at the wrong cutting height. It is old school compared to your carbide cutter but could you do a video on grinding a parting tool and setting its height. Thanks Chris from Australia.
The usual suspects to look for as reasons for your problem are: ridged tool holding, proper clearance for the tip and sides (more on that later), on center height of the cutter or a bit below, steady infeed with correctable feel if done by hand, and a large dose of luck if anyone of these is a bit off. Ridged holding or rather its lack can be seen by eye or with a camera. Setup a camera to watch what is going on, your cell phone will work in a pinch. Adjust as you see fit and if this corrects the problem great... chances are it is only one contributor. Angles are for clearance which allow the tip to do its work correctly. If the center is too high you'll be rubbing more than is needed, lower it until it starts cutting better. The tip needs to be presented at right angles to the cylinder and slightly below center. The sides need to not get in the way of the cut. Even a minor misalignment here will act to your failure. Check to see what is happening with the camera from a different angle. Constant infeed pressure by hand will allow you to feel what is happening at the tip and/or sides. Locking your carriage might help with any jittering or dithering experienced by the tooltip. Strength of tool is key. Start with an overly wide grooving style and reduce toward the parting style as you figure out the proper fits, feeds and speeds. Remember wide tips will squeal and/or chatter, fix the problems here and see if these help with the thinner blade width for parting. Some folks have praised an all-in-one solution, removing the biggest problem -which is the compound slide, by replacing it with a single riser block as in Clough42s casting which Clark of Windy Hill Foundry will be casting soonish (getting stuff hot when working cast iron takes a toll on equipment). While waiting you might wish to start measuring for fitment for something like that for your use. If you search for Clough42s channel you will be pleased with many solutions found there. Edited for clarity and spelling.
I think I would have placed a bolt through the two parts before welding to hold them straight and tight with a nut on the bolt. A washer on each end if needed. The video appeared maybe the weld positioner was running to fast for the wire feed on the welder. If my suggestion is ever tried let the weld cool or anneal it before removing the bolt "clamp" I enjoyed the video Thank you.
He had a piece of 5/8 square key stock running through to keep the two halves aligned. He probably shouldn't have had the key stock extending out of the ends so that he could have held the two halves together in a vice while he tacked it. After that, he could have put it in the welding positioner if he wanted to. On a part like that, I wouldn't have bothered with the welding positioner especially if you're going to grind it down afterwards. As far as the welding goes, I think he needs to get closer with the tip. He always struggles with mig, and I've suggested on more than one occasion to move the tip in closer, but he doesn't read comments. You tubers get so many comments from people that don't know what they're talking about that they won't listen to anyone in the comments.
Great work. Being that it is cast steel is it possible you could have heated it up and put an 's' bend in the handle? Or would that have made it too weak?
After your weight loss have you figured out the loss of pounds/feet of torque you have now? When I lost 180 lb after surgery I definitely found out that I had to have a much longer pipe to break loose truck lug bolts. Of course, the addition of a few years of life and a much better quality of life after weight loss makes torque loss just an extra couple of feet of longer cheater pipe. Keep up your weight loss regimen as you look better and are huffing and puffing much less. Love your videos even if you were a bit cranky in the last one.
12:31 ... I think it's always better to broach with the Arbour Press, as opposed to the Hydraulic one. broaches are expensive and it just seems much less likely to break one, with the Arbour Press!! :)
I don't see why not, Ginger already is a shop cat. They are highly fast and very precise in their movements. For those who may not believe me Keith was hammering on down on the top of a tail stock one time. He did a fine job but Ginger new it needed to go down 2 ten thous and so give it two bops to help out.
Normally I am very impressed with Keith's work process, but he blew it here. I would have heated that existing handle to cherry and bent into a dog leg. Many old handles are shaped like that, it would be MUCH faster, like 10 minutes, with out ANY machining, welding, or grinding...
You beat me, but yes. Time is money and it doesn't hurt to show a time saving technique once in a while. Ten minutes with a rosebud or hours of all that setup for all those operations...
People have no idea how much satisfaction you get when you can make something yourself. Good job Keith, love the video.
Kind of a Crocodile Dundee moment hauling that square file out... nice job! Love the mechanical actions of the planer.
Another finishing touch on the planer. Looks like it belongs there. Thanks for sharing this Keith.
Nice job. The cast steel was probably the cause of the MIG spitting and farting.
Finished job looked like an ‘original’ 👏👏
Robert
Love that you show it all and don't edit out the small issues that pop up.
Keith, its not a scrap pile. Its a natural resource store.
That’s not what my wife calls it.
@@Hoaxer51Are we talking about the same thing? 😳😱😂😂😂
fantastic success. if you do another one I'd love to see a modification to the handle into an S shape to make the clearance. maybe some acetylene torch action. keep on keepin' on with the great content.
i came here from the Tally Ho project . lots of comments on how to do this job . but more than one way to skin a cat. seems to me Keith did what he felt was best to prevent skinned knuckles/aggravation plus he entertained us in the process .good job thanks.
He's even a worse welder than he is a machinist, lots of laughs!
@@garybrenner6236 Well he's not bragging about anything, you seem to be though.
Since the crank is cast steel, why not simply use heat and make the handle a double offset to clear the upper shaft.
Lose leverage
@@watchjaredwork1487 by a tiny tiny amount. i agree with the comment - a slight S bend is MUCH easier
Very cool. I have the same welding helmet. It’s the one that extremely skilled people with exquisite taste buy.
You are lucky to find a handle that only needed such a small modification. That is an amazing machine that you have kept from going to the scrap yard! You are sure getting a lot of use on that Marvel Saw! TM long time viewer
The original handle was probably an 'offset' handle, which has a kink in the middle to put it further away, kind of like a bridgeport Z axis handle. I looked for one of these at one point, and you couldn't seem to get any newly made ones other than in large numbers as custom castings. I ended up finding that Martin (who makes handles!) had made one in the past and found someone selling one, but I had to file the square hole myself!
A small project, but always enjoy listening to you and learning as you go along.
When you started to run the Broach through the handle part I thought it was gonna be because it was a much harder metal as you stated while you were cutting it with the band saw.
Small job but having the right tools makes it easy . I'm 72 yrs old and still buying tools , I was planning on going to ARN fest this year but couldn't make it . I met you out there last year for the first time and mr. pete also . I did see your road trip video ,that was a heck of a trip . Thanks for the videos Keith .
Takes me back to my days as an apprentice fitter with ICI. Always happy to watch your videos Keith.
thks . broaching is fascinating for some reason. I like the old press. had one when I was a kid, it grew legs.
Nice one Keith, particularly the hot bluing to tie it all together
Nice work. As I tell my wife "It's the little things that make life good".
That welding helmet decoration is dope.
Nice work Keith.
I appreciate you sharing the process.
Have a great weekend. 👍🇺🇸👍
I have used that heat and oil method for a long time it works so well and helps prevent rusting. glad to see someone else promoting it
Such small quality of life things are so satisfying. Every time you use it now it's like "ahhhh so much better!"
A very good investment. It's fun to even watch someone else make such an improvement. Thanks for sharing.
BTW, look at Mr Rucker manhandle that arbor press. Don't underestimate old man strength. :-)
I noticed the knee/anvil or whatever it's called was moving as he pulled down on the handle.
I had visions of a very expensive broach breaking.
Does something need to be tightened down there?
Good job, I knew you could handle it! 😄
12:28 - The first time you broach a keyway, you will be amazed at your skill! Or at least, the function of the tools of those who have made them to do that job.
Glad to see you've gotten a handle on things...
Now you just need to get an automatic lifter mechanism for the cutters return stroke. Something mentioned a lot on being so useful on these shaper cutting heads, but some reason never get made.
This was a fun little job. I don't see much of welding cast steel or using a square broach, so it was fun to watch. Thanks for the video Keith, I'm really glad you're doing videos full time now
Another great video. I just don't see why you don't have waaay more subs. These are such helpful, pleasant looks at machining is all about.
Good morning Keith! Nice fix. Have a great weekend!
I appreciate all that you do Keith x
Nice to see how well it turned out. Broaching and metal planing are things I've learned (some) from you. Thanks.
Anything that makes work go smoother helps a lot, especially if it is something that bugs you. Nice work around, looks and works good. 👍
Oh hey! The crank handle mod! Aahh yeah. I was waiting eagerly for this video. The whole metal planer video series has been pretty awesome. I do hope you use it as often you can if its the hot trick tool for a job.
Good morning
Nice job Keith. As you said it's the small details that makes the difference
nicely done!
There are multiple ways to get to 10. Think this is one time that we differed on the method, but you got it done. Onward to the next project.
Nice work!
Projects like that are always fun.
An interesting afternoons play thank you for that 22:49
Yep, something as simple as rounding over the end of a handle can make something so much nicer to use.
Yep all you got to do is well the 3/4 inch deep well impact socket reversing on that and cut it to length
Thanks for sharing another great video about a short project Keith.
SALUT
I NOTICED THAT YOUR BAND SAW THE 2 ROLLERS BERING THAT HOLDS THE BLADE ARE LONGER THE BLADE NOT GOOD FOR THE PATH OF THE TOOTH THEY WILL CRUSH INSIDE THANKS FOR ALL THE VIDEOS THAT YOU SHOW US YOU ARE GOOD CONTINUOUS FROM CANADA
Thank you for another Great video. Cheers
Thanks Keith 👍😎
excellent work keith!!!
Well done !
Very nice. That would totally drive you crazy.
I'm slightly concerned about the arbor press. I could be completely wrong, but it seems like there's more flex than there should be.
Nice fix , the file was the right fix! I also like files and buy new old stock anytime like run up on it!
Thank you for sharing.👍
Thank you Keith!
Nice job Keith.
Great video
You are really cranking out the videos since you retired.
Nicely done.
I never have any luck parting off. I always end up breaking the tool. I have a high speed steel parting off tool and I am not sure if I am grinding them wrong or setting them at the wrong cutting height. It is old school compared to your carbide cutter but could you do a video on grinding a parting tool and setting its height. Thanks Chris from Australia.
The usual suspects to look for as reasons for your problem are: ridged tool holding, proper clearance for the tip and sides (more on that later), on center height of the cutter or a bit below, steady infeed with correctable feel if done by hand, and a large dose of luck if anyone of these is a bit off.
Ridged holding or rather its lack can be seen by eye or with a camera. Setup a camera to watch what is going on, your cell phone will work in a pinch. Adjust as you see fit and if this corrects the problem great... chances are it is only one contributor.
Angles are for clearance which allow the tip to do its work correctly. If the center is too high you'll be rubbing more than is needed, lower it until it starts cutting better. The tip needs to be presented at right angles to the cylinder and slightly below center. The sides need to not get in the way of the cut. Even a minor misalignment here will act to your failure. Check to see what is happening with the camera from a different angle.
Constant infeed pressure by hand will allow you to feel what is happening at the tip and/or sides.
Locking your carriage might help with any jittering or dithering experienced by the tooltip. Strength of tool is key. Start with an overly wide grooving style and reduce toward the parting style as you figure out the proper fits, feeds and speeds. Remember wide tips will squeal and/or chatter, fix the problems here and see if these help with the thinner blade width for parting.
Some folks have praised an all-in-one solution, removing the biggest problem -which is the compound slide, by replacing it with a single riser block as in Clough42s casting which Clark of Windy Hill Foundry will be casting soonish (getting stuff hot when working cast iron takes a toll on equipment). While waiting you might wish to start measuring for fitment for something like that for your use. If you search for Clough42s channel you will be pleased with many solutions found there.
Edited for clarity and spelling.
Are you locking the carriage? I started getting better results when I did that
Check Clough42 for his video on parting on the lathe. He had problems like yours also.
Another job well done!
That was fun!
Great, as usual!
Thanks, Keith! Nice job!
Nice to see your work!
Keith, I love your video content!
Thanks Keith for the video. Another shop project well done. Project for the shop sometime are the best.
Excellent repair.🙂🙂
Great job.
I look forward to seeing whatever you come up with to lift the cutter on the table's return stroke.
Interesting fix. Thanks
Old school ... hand fit with the file. Works every time, doesn't it ??!!
good job
Great video thanks for sharing
Enjoyed t he video Keith!!!! Keep 'um coming!!
great vid.
Nice!
always like to show your job process
I think I would have placed a bolt through the two parts before welding to hold them straight and tight with a nut on the bolt. A washer on each end if needed. The video appeared maybe the weld positioner was running to fast for the wire feed on the welder. If my suggestion is ever tried let the weld cool or anneal it before removing the bolt "clamp" I enjoyed the video Thank you.
He had a piece of 5/8 square key stock running through to keep the two halves aligned. He probably shouldn't have had the key stock extending out of the ends so that he could have held the two halves together in a vice while he tacked it. After that, he could have put it in the welding positioner if he wanted to. On a part like that, I wouldn't have bothered with the welding positioner especially if you're going to grind it down afterwards. As far as the welding goes, I think he needs to get closer with the tip. He always struggles with mig, and I've suggested on more than one occasion to move the tip in closer, but he doesn't read comments. You tubers get so many comments from people that don't know what they're talking about that they won't listen to anyone in the comments.
Good reply, Thanks
Great work. Being that it is cast steel is it possible you could have heated it up and put an 's' bend in the handle? Or would that have made it too weak?
Thanks for sharing. Clapper box next? ;)
After your weight loss have you figured out the loss of pounds/feet of torque you have now? When I lost 180 lb after surgery I definitely found out that I had to have a much longer pipe to break loose truck lug bolts.
Of course, the addition of a few years of life and a much better quality of life after weight loss makes torque loss just an extra couple of feet of longer cheater pipe. Keep up your weight loss regimen as you look better and are huffing and puffing much less. Love your videos even if you were a bit cranky in the last one.
12:31 ... I think it's always better to broach with the Arbour Press, as opposed to the Hydraulic one. broaches are expensive and it just seems much less likely to break one, with the Arbour Press!! :)
nice
Hooray!
Now you need to automate lifting the cutter on the return stroke.
Nice 😎😎😎👍👍👍
Those lathe bearings sound like they need some maintenance...
Also, you got lucky with the TH-cam lottery - your video ID ends in Bell!
i would of tig welded that part together
That handle looks like it's the original handle for an old Bridgeport milling vice.
What doesn't fit will be made to fit.
Is that like Clark a little short on one end?
Could you not train the shop cat to lift the tool on the return stroke?
A laudable idea next, you'll be suggesting that Keith learn to herd the cats that would be very funny, I like your style sir.
Edited for spelling
Feline clapper box video next?
I don't see why not, Ginger already is a shop cat. They are highly fast and very precise in their movements.
For those who may not believe me Keith was hammering on down on the top of a tail stock one time. He did a fine job but Ginger new it needed to go down 2 ten thous and so give it two bops to help out.
oh well... I just happen to have this perfectly sized file...
Yep, made in New Haven. Except for Paul Giamatti, everything made there is just a little bit off. Myself included :P.
Nice modification, personally I’d would’ve just heated the handle and made an offset in it..
Allowing for the bends would shorten the handle length by too much, maybe?
Love your show and practice
Nothing better than a good morning workout with the Arbor Press.
I think I would’ve cut the handle off added to piece on the back so that I had more square engagement, but that’s just me
Heat and make an offset bend
Normally I am very impressed with Keith's work process, but he blew it here. I would have heated that existing handle to cherry and bent into a dog leg. Many old handles are shaped like that, it would be MUCH faster, like 10 minutes, with out ANY machining, welding, or grinding...
Grinding and paint makes me the welder i aint...
I know it’s too late, but I thought putting a ‘goose neck” in the handle would have been a simple and elegant solution. 🤔👍💕
You beat me, but yes. Time is money and it doesn't hurt to show a time saving technique once in a while. Ten minutes with a rosebud or hours of all that setup for all those operations...