for those wondering, 4 1/2 lbs of tin Babbitt from McMaster-Carr is $331.60 US Dollars plus shipping. He has used 13 bars so far for $4,310,80 plus shipping WOW!
If only we could bring one of the men who built this machine forward in time to see the CAD system and the laser cutter. Witchcraft! 😁 Lovely work as always, Keith.
Great project! It's great to watch the progress. I don't know how Keith is billing his customers, if at all, but the cost of the babbitt should be passed along.
Keith, I heat to bring this up, but when you removed the 1st cap after the pour, you mistakenly turned it around when you marked it. The cast numbers on it was to the outside when you poured it and to the inside when you marked it. It may not make any difference, but I wanted you to know.
Hopefully you're enjoying your retirement as much as I'm enjoying your retirement. I love the increased output in your shop of work and videos!. I might just have to become a patron. 😊
Hi Keith I have enjoyed the cane mill restorations.I believe I can clear some things up on the bearing caps.The mill base was probably dropped and broken years ago along with the large ring gear and caps.Thompson Foundry and Machine manufactured mills very similiar to Goldens mills.The Thompson mills were built heavier. The bearing caps for the large Thompson mills had 4 bolts or studs to hold them in place.When the mill was broken Thompson probably supplied the replacements without the extra stud holes in the caps.The original Goldens caps were 2 bolt or studs and set up for wick oilers that is what the opening is for it is not a vent hole. Thompson Foundry and Machine once located in Thomasville Ga supplied cane mills and replacement parts for cane mills as well as other castings years ago.The company was previously known as Thomasville Iron Works which dates back to the late 1800's.Thomasville Iron Works also supplied power cane mills horse mills and kettles.
If that is the case how were the upper bearings put in place? And 42 minutes later I have the idea that they were poured the same way as the lower bearings and then used as top. Might be my answer?
I especially enjoy watching your videos, Keith, when I'm in the middle of a project myself. Your editing skills are fantastic. I wish I could, as you do, edit out the persnickety, repetitive bits, and just experience the new and most interesting parts of my slow-moving, often frustrating reality. Thanks, as always! I recommend your channel to folks as a way to not just learn, but to leave the world behind for a while and just enjoy someone doing things well and competently. I wouldn't quite say you were a Bob Ross of old machines, but it's close!
I’m sure others have told you already about the outside upper cap. You turned it before putting it back on and marking it. The light colored smudge was toward the inside, not the outside. Don’t know if it makes a difference. Enjoy your videos. Awesome work and machines.
Thanks Kieth, you referred to going broke buying babbit, but you never elaborated, so I did the calculation for you. Based on McMaster/Carr's current pricing of $331.60 per approximately 4.5 lbs of tin based babbit, the 62 lbs you've used "so far" has cost, without shipping, sales taxes etc. $4568.71. If you had been able to use lead based babbit, the cost would have reduced to $115.42 per 5lb aprox bar or $1431.21 or about a third. Quite an eye opener for anyone contemplating restoring anything like this machine. Bear in mind, that cost is just for the babbit material. No labour, other materials for the pouring mandrels, sand blasting and undercoating of the base parts, etc. included. Wow! Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊🇺🇲🐖💩🐑👍
Did you notice that you turned the bearing cap 180° around at 17:03? The embossed part number was at the end of the shaft when you poured the babbit, but it was at the center of the shaft when you punched it.
not sure how much of a difference this will make but bearing cap 3 you put it back on and marked it with the cast in writing facing in to the drum gear but it was poured with the writing facing away from the drum gear.
Good job! You only had the venting problem on the one pour. On future pours, it would be easy to vent these by allowing an appropriately placed and shaped opening in the Mild-Pac to create a vent for you..
I can’t believe there are all that many people who could have taken on a huge job like this with the skills and know-how to make this old equipment work again.
I also think about that often! There are a lot of times the comment section isn’t all that nice to Keith, but at the end of the day- he sure can get the job done, and these are not jobs the typical shop would tackle. It’s really awesome we get to enjoy it all digitally!
Thanks Keith,. Since you retired the content is obviously more frequent, and for me, I like the 30 minute chunks with well judged editing, unrushed but avoiding repetition. I can stretch a cup of tea to that, but for an hour I have to make time. I think you have the balance just right and hope you are enjoing it. Hope the yard is recovering. I guess grass grows most of the year round in your neck of the woods.
These pours came out great. I have poured a lot of wood planer (HD) and very large 6 inch log deck chain way bearings and these are just plain good pours. Well done my friend.
You made me look up babbit ingot prices; ranges between $23 and $40 per pound depending on blend and grade. I reckon you're pouring more babbit than my project motorcycle is worth. wowzers.
YIKES!!!!!!!!!! I'm betting he's paid the higher rate as lead free is usually dearer. Even so, your look up of prices means 57lb is like $1311 to $2280.
Yeah, I went and looked too, holy hells Babbitt has gone through the roof! Best price I found was just under $20/lb, with a minimum order of 350 pounds, not including shipping.
The restoration of this old equipment is better termed as industrial art IMO. The machinery you have gathered and the expertise which you apply to it is the reason I stick around. I also am retired and worked in all phases of mechanical repair and some equipment design in my former career path. Keep up the good work.
I really enjoy your videos and have appreciated that you post videos throughout the week on different days; gives me something great to watch during the week, and not just the weekends.
I rebuilt engines with Babbitt rod and main bearing when I was younger , it worked out great, never seen the pouring or making of battitts very interesting
Good morning Keith, Excellent work again. Regarding the different bearing caps, the larger blocks are needed to support the engagement forces of the ring gear to the drive gear. The smaller end caps are only needed to keep the shaft in place. As for the rotation of bearing cap on shaft 1, once Keith dials in the babbit and scrapes them in place, there will not be any issues. I suspect that on shaft 2, the square bearing block is a later version because it has a vent hole. The best part of this whole project is if the babbit pour doesn’t meet his expectations, he can melt it down and pour again. Excellent work Keith.
At 3:00 - Keith is talking about the difference in the two styles of bearing caps. My thinking is the original style was the ones with the smaller tabs and those were found to be breaking off as we can see with one of the caps. So the manufacturer came up with a different design with a larger tab that is less prone to breaking off. The owner at one point in time had several of the caps with a broken small tabs and decided to order some replacements and found that they were the new style. My two cents.
I was thinking the same thing. I also find it odd that the owner is willing to spend the time and money to get this thing operational but not ... at the present time ... repair the broken cap. IMHO I believe casting a new cap is not needed. Some cast iron round bar ... a little machine work and brazing would work just fine.
There are cheaper places to source Babbit. I've seen it MUCH cheaper than that (around $28~$35/lb). Tin isn't cheap (current futures (3 month for 2025) is $28,880/MT or ~$13/lb). Given that ~80% of that babbitt is tin, it's a cost driver. They also usually add Copper and Antimony to it, and neither of those are cheap. Yea. Crazy money though. Remember McMaster is a mega supplier of many things, they usually have large markups on what they carry. Places like Acro metals (company I worked with used them quite often) carries it for about $28/lb for the SN86/SB7/CU7 stuff.
Hi Keith. Thanks for the video. I must have missed something... at 8:01, you refer to the "little step" on the bearing caps that corresponds to a "gap" on the bottom of the bearing areas. I couldn't see whether that "step" was higher or lower than the main shim's surface. If it was lower, wouldn't you need more shims than the 2 that you put in that gap, to bring the gap up to the same level as the main shims? If the "step" was higher than the main shims' surface, wouldn't you need more than 2 shims on the main shim surface in order to not have the gap area be higher? If the "gap" was at the same level as the main shim surface, I wouldn't expect Keith to call it a "step." I guess I'm confused by Keith's calling the gap area on the caps a "step" and then putting the same number of shim layers on both the gaps and the main shim area.
Instead of speanding all the time building spacers, could you use a spacer to center,clamp a v to align the shaft in place and pull out the shims.then use the damming material to cap the ends.
Just for fun, I costed the metals to brew your own tin babbit metal (88% Sn, 8% Sb, 4% Cu.) I made it about $25 per kilogram. Cheaper than buying ready-made in small quantities, but probably only worth it if you're using large quantities when you add freight.
Do watch out moving the gantry of the laser out of the way as fast as you did. Pretty easy to fry the motor drivers by doing that. Either move it slowly by hand or control it by software.
Really surprised you didn't fix that broken ear. Depending on how the shaft turns, it could have a lot of lifting force on the cap. From all the broken castings, it looks like that machine must have fallen off a truck or suffered some sort of heavy impact back in the day.
Keith Been a long time watcher. Curious about the Stoker Engine status. I recall you sent it to Abom’s shop but he was unable to reach the inside. Wondered what happened to it Regards Chris Dibbell Murrieta CA
Keith, I'm sure you have done some homework, but if you need a decent source, try out Acro Metals. WAY cheaper than McMaster for Babbitt if that is where you sourced it. $28/lb for 86Sn/7Cu/7Sb Food Grade
Since you've mentioned it several times, I finally went to see just how much Grade 1, food-safe babbit material costs. Looks like $39/pound! (not like it was gold-leaf, but still). So, you had 25 in the big/top bearings. 32 in the bottom (8 halves) and 4 more halves remaining to pour. 73 pounds total, if I'm doing the math right. That comes out to $2,847. Definitely not cheap, but compared to the cost of your labor...
@@ellieprice363 ok then, let’s put it another way since It’s so easy to arm chair judge the outcome after it’s over. Why was it necessary before? How would one know it would release easily in this case? Do only certain babbit require sooting?
@@jamanjeval I don’t know anything about Babbitt except what I’ve learned from this channel. Seems it would be good insurance to use soot but for some reason Keith decided not to on this job. There’s often more than one way to do a job.
@jamanjeval why are you getting so emotional over something that doesn't involve you at all? How about you go pour some babbit, and figure it out yourself if its so incredibly important to you
Hi! Really nice video, as always. Careful as the first bearing cap you poured, removed and marqued (the lower-right one) you have put back and marqued backward, as you can see if you watch the excess babbitt in the oil reservoir before and after you checked the pour. I don't think it should matter much, as you still can put it back on, but just so you know. Have a nice end of day
I also caught that...another clue is that the cap-s casting part number was on the right for the pour, but when Keith replaced the cap and marked it, the P/N was on the left. I agree, especially after scraping the bearing in, it will not make a difference.
Possibly, I've missed the discussion of what babbitt you are using. From my limited understanding, a low-speed machine such as this would use a lead based babbitt. That seems like it would not be acceptable in a machine used to process food. Thanks, dave
As many of these cane mills you have restored it would be cool to see this big one in operation when you get it done.
for those wondering, 4 1/2 lbs of tin Babbitt from McMaster-Carr is $331.60 US Dollars plus shipping. He has used 13 bars so far for $4,310,80 plus shipping WOW!
Hey you're getting pretty good at that babbit pouring stuff... Can't wait to see that monster make some cane juice.
If only we could bring one of the men who built this machine forward in time to see the CAD system and the laser cutter. Witchcraft! 😁 Lovely work as always, Keith.
Very nice work mister.
Great project! It's great to watch the progress.
I don't know how Keith is billing his customers, if at all, but the cost of the babbitt should be passed along.
Keith, I heat to bring this up, but when you removed the 1st cap after the pour, you mistakenly turned it around when you marked it. The cast numbers on it was to the outside when you poured it and to the inside when you marked it. It may not make any difference, but I wanted you to know.
I just looked up lead-free babbitt on Belmont metals. It lists for 32.68/lb. That is going to be an absolute cash cow worth of metal on bearings.
Hopefully you're enjoying your retirement as much as I'm enjoying your retirement. I love the increased output in your shop of work and videos!. I might just have to become a patron. 😊
Hi Keith I have enjoyed the cane mill restorations.I believe I can clear some things up on the bearing caps.The mill base was probably dropped and broken years ago along with the large ring gear and caps.Thompson Foundry and Machine manufactured mills very similiar to Goldens mills.The Thompson mills were built heavier. The bearing caps for the large Thompson mills had 4 bolts or studs to hold them in place.When the mill was broken Thompson probably supplied the replacements without the extra stud holes in the caps.The original Goldens caps were 2 bolt or studs and set up for wick oilers that is what the opening is for it is not a vent hole. Thompson Foundry and Machine once located in Thomasville Ga supplied cane mills and replacement parts for cane mills as well as other castings years ago.The company was previously known as Thomasville Iron Works which dates back to the late 1800's.Thomasville Iron Works also supplied power cane mills horse mills and kettles.
If that is the case how were the upper bearings put in place? And 42 minutes later I have the idea that they were poured the same way as the lower bearings and then used as top. Might be my answer?
I especially enjoy watching your videos, Keith, when I'm in the middle of a project myself. Your editing skills are fantastic. I wish I could, as you do, edit out the persnickety, repetitive bits, and just experience the new and most interesting parts of my slow-moving, often frustrating reality. Thanks, as always!
I recommend your channel to folks as a way to not just learn, but to leave the world behind for a while and just enjoy someone doing things well and competently. I wouldn't quite say you were a Bob Ross of old machines, but it's close!
always interesting
I’m sure others have told you already about the outside upper cap. You turned it before putting it back on and marking it. The light colored smudge was toward the inside, not the outside. Don’t know if it makes a difference. Enjoy your videos. Awesome work and machines.
Thanks Kieth, you referred to going broke buying babbit, but you never elaborated, so I did the calculation for you. Based on McMaster/Carr's current pricing of $331.60 per approximately 4.5 lbs of tin based babbit, the 62 lbs you've used "so far" has cost, without shipping, sales taxes etc. $4568.71. If you had been able to use lead based babbit, the cost would have reduced to $115.42 per 5lb aprox bar or $1431.21 or about a third. Quite an eye opener for anyone contemplating restoring anything like this machine. Bear in mind, that cost is just for the babbit material. No labour, other materials for the pouring mandrels, sand blasting and undercoating of the base parts, etc. included. Wow!
Regards from Canada's banana belt.
🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊🇺🇲🐖💩🐑👍
Assuming he got it from McMaster...Acro Metals sells it for about $28/lb for the 86Sn/7Cu/7Sb (food safe).
Looks good
Did you notice that you turned the bearing cap 180° around at 17:03? The embossed part number was at the end of the shaft when you poured the babbit, but it was at the center of the shaft when you punched it.
*BRAVO*
not sure how much of a difference this will make but bearing cap 3 you put it back on and marked it with the cast in writing facing in to the drum gear but it was poured with the writing facing away from the drum gear.
Good job! You only had the venting problem on the one pour. On future pours, it would be easy to vent these by allowing an appropriately placed and shaped opening in the Mild-Pac to create a vent for you..
I can’t believe there are all that many people who could have taken on a huge job like this with the skills and know-how to make this old equipment work again.
I also think about that often! There are a lot of times the comment section isn’t all that nice to Keith, but at the end of the day- he sure can get the job done, and these are not jobs the typical shop would tackle. It’s really awesome we get to enjoy it all digitally!
Thanks Keith,. Since you retired the content is obviously more frequent, and for me, I like the 30 minute chunks with well judged editing, unrushed but avoiding repetition. I can stretch a cup of tea to that, but for an hour I have to make time. I think you have the balance just right and hope you are enjoing it. Hope the yard is recovering. I guess grass grows most of the year round in your neck of the woods.
Me."But it's just next to Florida?". My wife.."They get blizzards, idiot."
Thanks for another excellent video update on the Monster Cane Mill Restoration. Great stuff!!! Thanks for sharing.
These pours came out great. I have poured a lot of wood planer (HD) and very large 6 inch log deck chain way bearings and these are just plain good pours. Well done my friend.
You made me look up babbit ingot prices; ranges between $23 and $40 per pound depending on blend and grade. I reckon you're pouring more babbit than my project motorcycle is worth. wowzers.
YIKES!!!!!!!!!! I'm betting he's paid the higher rate as lead free is usually dearer.
Even so, your look up of prices means 57lb is like $1311 to $2280.
Yeah, I went and looked too, holy hells Babbitt has gone through the roof! Best price I found was just under $20/lb, with a minimum order of 350 pounds, not including shipping.
Thanks, Keith, for always providing interesting and engaging content. Quality stuff here all the time!
The restoration of this old equipment is better termed as industrial art IMO. The machinery you have gathered and the expertise which you apply to it is the reason I stick around. I also am retired and worked in all phases of mechanical repair and some equipment design in my former career path. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, Keith!
I really enjoy your videos and have appreciated that you post videos throughout the week on different days; gives me something great to watch during the week, and not just the weekends.
Hopefully you're enjoying your retirement as much as I'm enjoying your retirement.
That broken ear could be " fixed" with some epoxy putty. Just make it look complete.
This is very cool project.
I rebuilt engines with Babbitt rod and main bearing when I was younger , it worked out great, never seen the pouring or making of battitts very interesting
Alltid lika trevligt att följa tack
Instämmer! (Med hälsningar från Australien).
Keith, could you ask the owner of this cane mill to take a few minutes of it in operation so we can watch it operate? Thumbs up!
Good morning Keith,
Excellent work again.
Regarding the different bearing caps, the larger blocks are needed to support the engagement forces of the ring gear to the drive gear. The smaller end caps are only needed to keep the shaft in place.
As for the rotation of bearing cap on shaft 1, once Keith dials in the babbit and scrapes them in place, there will not be any issues.
I suspect that on shaft 2, the square bearing block is a later version because it has a vent hole. The best part of this whole project is if the babbit pour doesn’t meet his expectations, he can melt it down and pour again.
Excellent work Keith.
At 3:00 - Keith is talking about the difference in the two styles of bearing caps. My thinking is the original style was the ones with the smaller tabs and those were found to be breaking off as we can see with one of the caps. So the manufacturer came up with a different design with a larger tab that is less prone to breaking off. The owner at one point in time had several of the caps with a broken small tabs and decided to order some replacements and found that they were the new style. My two cents.
I was thinking the same thing. I also find it odd that the owner is willing to spend the time and money to get this thing operational but not ... at the present time ... repair the broken cap. IMHO I believe casting a new cap is not needed. Some cast iron round bar ... a little machine work and brazing would work just fine.
Thank you Keith! Another great project!
Whew!! Tin based babbit is $331.60 per 4.5lbs on McMaster-Carr . . . . . And over 50lbs on this so far . . . .
There are cheaper places to source Babbit. I've seen it MUCH cheaper than that (around $28~$35/lb). Tin isn't cheap (current futures (3 month for 2025) is $28,880/MT or ~$13/lb). Given that ~80% of that babbitt is tin, it's a cost driver. They also usually add Copper and Antimony to it, and neither of those are cheap. Yea. Crazy money though.
Remember McMaster is a mega supplier of many things, they usually have large markups on what they carry. Places like Acro metals (company I worked with used them quite often) carries it for about $28/lb for the SN86/SB7/CU7 stuff.
Thank you Keith!
Thanks Keith!
Nice job Professor!
Hi Keith. Thanks for the video. I must have missed something... at 8:01, you refer to the "little step" on the bearing caps that corresponds to a "gap" on the bottom of the bearing areas. I couldn't see whether that "step" was higher or lower than the main shim's surface. If it was lower, wouldn't you need more shims than the 2 that you put in that gap, to bring the gap up to the same level as the main shims? If the "step" was higher than the main shims' surface, wouldn't you need more than 2 shims on the main shim surface in order to not have the gap area be higher? If the "gap" was at the same level as the main shim surface, I wouldn't expect Keith to call it a "step." I guess I'm confused by Keith's calling the gap area on the caps a "step" and then putting the same number of shim layers on both the gaps and the main shim area.
When used for good purposes, technology is an awesome aid to all of us. Thank you!
I did an idle calculation to find that at around $20 per pound, you already have about $1137 worth of tin babbitt tied up in this project!
Another pourific video. Keep it up Keith.
Good morning, Keith.
Not sure if you caught it, but at 17:16, you put the cap back on in reverse orientation from where it was poured.
I saw the same thing.
Yep, I rewatched to double check and he had the cap reversed when punching the witness marks.
@@jacksons1010A little too much talking, 😂😂😂😂😅
Saw it as he did it done same myself lol 😂
Fantastic video. But don't get why these bearings weren't turned. Please explain why the casting. Many thanks.
Keith gets beat up ,knackered equipment and makes old stuff look new
Good show, as always.🙂🙂
Nice, Good job
Thank you Keith!!
Thanks Keith for the Video. Can't wait to see it running.
just so cool!!
Great Update But when you Witness marked the Cap you Changed the orientation oO
excellent video as always. are these type of bearings better than modern day ball or roller bearings
Good morning
Wow. That’s thousands of dollars in Babbitt in that thing. I never would have thought it would take that much.
Monster Cane Mill, Keith's the man to tame it! All there's left is to teach it to do a few tricks.
I wonder when he is going to tame the Stoker Engine?
Brilliant work Keith, very inspiring.
Keith, On that broken ear, You can just make a small angle 45 to slide down on the stud ?! (Though, I know you like original)
The geometry and surveying to keep those axles aimed correctly could quickly be come a nightmare.
Instead of speanding all the time building spacers, could you use a spacer to center,clamp a v to align the shaft in place and pull out the shims.then use the damming material to cap the ends.
Nice video Keith. We like this
Making old worn out parts new again! What an awesome concept! I got me two new hips to prove it!
Thank you!
Great job.
Just for fun, I costed the metals to brew your own tin babbit metal (88% Sn, 8% Sb, 4% Cu.) I made it about $25 per kilogram. Cheaper than buying ready-made in small quantities, but probably only worth it if you're using large quantities when you add freight.
Coming along nicely Keith.
Love your videos, Keith. That's really an amazing machine.
Thank you for the video, restful watching as always.
Nice pour! No acetylene torch carbon on the shaft? or did I miss that?
Another great video and good pour .
Do watch out moving the gantry of the laser out of the way as fast as you did.
Pretty easy to fry the motor drivers by doing that.
Either move it slowly by hand or control it by software.
Looking good! I'm seeing $32 shipped per pound of tin babbitt. So well over $2500? History is expensive!
Really surprised you didn't fix that broken ear. Depending on how the shaft turns, it could have a lot of lifting force on the cap. From all the broken castings, it looks like that machine must have fallen off a truck or suffered some sort of heavy impact back in the day.
nice one Keith.
Good video thanks for posting
Thank you for sharing.👍
25:54 - When Tony Vandervell introduced "thin-wall" bearings, mechanical rebuilds became affordable.
What happen to the "overfilled" babbit? After pouring it was a lot, after cooling none.
Good morning Keith! Have a great week!
A seven pound ingot of Babbitt is around $180. So nine ingots cost about $1620 before shipping.
I noticed that you didn't smoke the shaft on this pour. Is there a reason for that?
So, at $30 a pound, we are looking at a little over $2000 worth of new babbit in total? Hope you found it a lot cheaper than that.
Keith
Been a long time watcher. Curious about the Stoker Engine status. I recall you sent it to Abom’s shop but he was unable to reach the inside. Wondered what happened to it
Regards
Chris Dibbell
Murrieta CA
I'm kinda curious why Keith didn't soot the mandrel for these bearings...
Why aluminum not a copper for correct the boring here??
Keith, I'm sure you have done some homework, but if you need a decent source, try out Acro Metals. WAY cheaper than McMaster for Babbitt if that is where you sourced it. $28/lb for 86Sn/7Cu/7Sb Food Grade
Since you've mentioned it several times, I finally went to see just how much Grade 1, food-safe babbit material costs. Looks like $39/pound! (not like it was gold-leaf, but still). So, you had 25 in the big/top bearings. 32 in the bottom (8 halves) and 4 more halves remaining to pour. 73 pounds total, if I'm doing the math right. That comes out to $2,847. Definitely not cheap, but compared to the cost of your labor...
Why don’t you put soot on the pouring mandrill, using the acetylene torch, anymore?
Appears to work okay without the soot. So why go that extra step if it’s not necessary?
@@ellieprice363 ok then, let’s put it another way since It’s so easy to arm chair judge the outcome after it’s over. Why was it necessary before? How would one know it would release easily in this case? Do only certain babbit require sooting?
@@jamanjeval I don’t know anything about Babbitt except what I’ve learned from this channel. Seems it would be good insurance to use soot but for some reason Keith decided not to on this job. There’s often more than one way to do a job.
@jamanjeval why are you getting so emotional over something that doesn't involve you at all? How about you go pour some babbit, and figure it out yourself if its so incredibly important to you
@ that’s why I’m asking!
This cane mill seems to have lived a hard life. I guess that is part of it’s history, it’s story, I should say.
Hi! Really nice video, as always.
Careful as the first bearing cap you poured, removed and marqued (the lower-right one) you have put back and marqued backward, as you can see if you watch the excess babbitt in the oil reservoir before and after you checked the pour. I don't think it should matter much, as you still can put it back on, but just so you know.
Have a nice end of day
I also caught that...another clue is that the cap-s casting part number was on the right for the pour, but when Keith replaced the cap and marked it, the P/N was on the left. I agree, especially after scraping the bearing in, it will not make a difference.
This guy screws up just about everything he works on, enjoy the laughs.
Beautiful looking poor as usual
When you pried up the bearing you put it back down backwards before you marked it.
Every thing this guy dose is a** backwards, enjoy the laughs!
Great episode as usual, but approx 60 pounds of babbitt, that’s a grand or so is it not?
Probably double..
Good morning Keith!
Nice work Keith, poring bearings was a mystery to me.
It’s been fun watching this project.
65lbs $4500 Holly Molly
You always talk about coating the mandrel in acytalyne carbon , what weren't these coated ??
Possibly, I've missed the discussion of what babbitt you are using. From my limited understanding, a low-speed machine such as this would use a lead based babbitt. That seems like it would not be acceptable in a machine used to process food. Thanks, dave