"I went through my nuts a while ago and, lo and behold, I didn't have one. (7:15)" Keith, you are my #1 favorite on TH-cam and have been for years! I've learned so much and have the highest respect for you. Another outstanding video!
12:02 .. Just a reminder for the new guys. Woodruff Keys are designed to shear of at a certain torque rating, specifically to protect whatever they are turning from too much turning force. ... That's why it's important to replace them with the exact same size and shape :)
That would only be a correct statement for the woodruff key to be a shear pin if it was made from soft aluminum or equivalent. The purpose of a woodruff key is to align its mating pieces together and hold for a high torque.
Great job Keith. I’m working on some pistons for Aerospace and they sent along a sample with the print. There are about 70 features to machine. I can hardly believe how many of the features are out of print on the sample part. My boss said to make them to the print and I agree. Being a machiner is always great fun!
Another nice project from VM. Question: Regarding the discrepancy between the print and shaft. How do you know that the shaft is right? Maybe the print is right and the shaft broke because it was machined incorrectly. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
This looks like one of those "little" jobs that will make a big difference for the person who needs his lathe back in full service. Maybe when all is said and done the owner could make a short, simple little video and send it to Keith, with permission to use it. Basic info on the lathe, maybe what happened, a shot of what it looks like installed (and running, if possible), and anything else that you think is interesting. Then sometime Keith could add it to a "Viewer Mail" segment. I suspect lots of people would find it interesting and informative to see "the rest of the story"!
Yes! I wish the people who send these jobs in would at least send a photo of the machine it is for as well as a photo of the part in place so Keith could add that to the video.
13:40 - Prefer carefully lowering it (static) onto a .005" feeler gauge on top of the shaft, lifting until the gauge slides out, add .005" to the excursion.
excellant wprk as always. I am curious because your work is so awesome and we rarely get to see your work “doing its job” have you ever heard from the guy with the sports car engine that you machined the crank gear for?
If the drawing was a factory drawing then follow the print. If the drawing was done by the operator then follow the part and hope that no one else made a replacement part since it left the factory.
Might it sometimes be important that the woodruff keyhole position is referenced to the position of the machined indents on the shaft? Or maybe even with the start of the thread? ( Just a simple question - I am NOT a machinist!)
@@garybrenner6236 Gary, gary... we talked about this before, he is old school, like me, very old school. We called the folks with mills and lathes mechanics and that they are; it was only later that people with wrenches were called mechanics and the word machinist came about to differentiate the two "working men" groups.
Follow the print, not the part when you have one. If it is wrong you can point to the print and say that is what you wanted me to make. The old part is just a reference.
Thanks Keith. I'm guessing that the customer called out the length of the threads and overlooked the chamfer at the end. I gave a machinist a sketch of a powder wedge with all non-critical measurements that I took using a wooden Smoky the Bear ruler. He lost his crap because the sketch said 1/8" and the groove was actually.110, needless to say, I never made that mistake again.
Send that broken shaft to PK for repair. Wearing nothing but a sheet & sandals, a tech will machine fit for a dowel then weld it all up on a dirt floor.
It's not really good for them but if you have worn calipers you may as well get a little more use from them. I have a pair of carbide jaw calipers that I use for the same thing since the inside jaws were damaged
This looks like the main spindle shaft for a Craftsman 109 lathe (even down to that thin key, that's where the back gear assembly goes), although the break is where a collar would be.
@@timhatch1299 sound right, over tourqe at the chuck broke the chuck end off instead of the woodruff key. An extra Key might even been provided for the newbie purchaser. My my...
LOL, I lost count of how many times the drawings did not necessarily match up with the prototype sample. Things like transposed numbers on the drawing or the wrong reference line.
@@paulsilva3346 Nothing to do with that! Keith had the part but chose to copy the drawing. It is common sense to check the part (if you have it) against the drawing which was wrong. School boy error 101 The part failed as it was old and worn..simple as that.
@@theessexhunter1305 looked like a stress fracture, more than likely from sharp 60° thread with no radius used for the run out relief. That is what I see with these old eyes and zooming the image. This does look like a shop made repair, the odd angle for the setscrew points, lack of radius for the run out relief. Would not surprise me if this fails again after many more over torque tightening efforts by the hand of the operator. I have no idea what lathe uses a center shaft of any type, much less one this small. Might be a jeweler lathe for all I know. There are lots of those, many portable ones as well. Hence the many tightenings. Edited to show I learned something... amazing isn't it. This is the shaft for a Sears mini lathe 109.
@@theessexhunter1305 we had one J head that needed a new threaded area tigged on around once a month. Cheap owner was stiffing the workers as well, no raises for nine years for one guy. I left within a month.
"I went through my nuts a while ago and, lo and behold, I didn't have one. (7:15)" Keith, you are my #1 favorite on TH-cam and have been for years! I've learned so much and have the highest respect for you. Another outstanding video!
This was particularly nice to watch because it seems to all be within my own skill set.
12:02 .. Just a reminder for the new guys. Woodruff Keys are designed to shear of at a certain torque rating, specifically to protect whatever they are turning from too much turning force.
... That's why it's important to replace them with the exact same size and shape :)
Um, small problem with that statement. It didn’t work on the broken shaft. The shaft snapped instead.
That would only be a correct statement for the woodruff key to be a shear pin if it was made from soft aluminum or equivalent.
The purpose of a woodruff key is to align its mating pieces together and hold for a high torque.
@@jimfiles3307 one wonders whether he has tried to disassemble machines with sheared keys. They are NOT sheer pins. Ever.
Keith, yours is the best shop to do this project for so many reasons not the least of which is patience that comes with years of needing it!
Nice job Keith.
Been a tool and die maker for 46 years, I always use a vernier to get close then a micrometer to finish check my diameter. Nice work bud
No matter how many times I watch you cut threads, it never gets old.
Watching the machining is always nice but can you show us more of the setup process and practices ?
Good work! another old machine back to work. TFTV
No job too small - Great work Keith. Thanks for sharing.
Great job Keith. I’m working on some pistons for Aerospace and they sent along a sample with the print. There are about 70 features to machine. I can hardly believe how many of the features are out of print on the sample part. My boss said to make them to the print and I agree. Being a machiner is always great fun!
That is my preferred way to cut threads on the lathe...
Beautiful work, Keith!!
wow, the repair looked great,
Thanks Keith
Another nice project from VM. Question: Regarding the discrepancy between the print and shaft. How do you know that the shaft is right? Maybe the print is right and the shaft broke because it was machined incorrectly. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
This looks like one of those "little" jobs that will make a big difference for the person who needs his lathe back in full service. Maybe when all is said and done the owner could make a short, simple little video and send it to Keith, with permission to use it. Basic info on the lathe, maybe what happened, a shot of what it looks like installed (and running, if possible), and anything else that you think is interesting. Then sometime Keith could add it to a "Viewer Mail" segment. I suspect lots of people would find it interesting and informative to see "the rest of the story"!
Yes! I wish the people who send these jobs in would at least send a photo of the machine it is for as well as a photo of the part in place so Keith could add that to the video.
Thank you Keith!
I suspect that may be the spindle from an old small Sears/Craftsman lathe. They had 1/2"-20 threads for the chuck.
13:40 - Prefer carefully lowering it (static) onto a .005" feeler gauge on top of the shaft, lifting until the gauge slides out, add .005" to the excursion.
excellant wprk as always. I am curious because your work is so awesome and we rarely get to see your work “doing its job” have you ever heard from the guy with the sports car engine that you machined the crank gear for?
Great job.
Thank you for the video
Some days eh, LOL. No worries, Keith to the rescue !
Great stuff, Keith! Glad to see you able to post more frequently. 😊
Keith great job on shaft could you tell me the actual thread insert if I where to purchase can it be used on all 60 deg threads
The difference in the part and the drawing makes me wonder if this part wasn’t replaced before.
Thanks for sharing 👍
🙉 wow!
to follow the blue print ?
to follow the original ?
'Swhy I like to have the whole machine around.
Yet, can't be done.
😢
You did well. 💙
If the drawing was a factory drawing then follow the print. If the drawing was done by the operator then follow the part and hope that no one else made a replacement part since it left the factory.
Might it sometimes be important that the woodruff keyhole position is referenced to the position of the machined indents on the shaft? Or maybe even with the start of the thread? ( Just a simple question - I am NOT a machinist!)
Neither is He!
@@garybrenner6236 Gary, gary... we talked about this before, he is old school, like me, very old school. We called the folks with mills and lathes mechanics and that they are; it was only later that people with wrenches were called mechanics and the word machinist came about to differentiate the two "working men" groups.
A relatively simple job but enjoyable to watch.
Awesome Keith
I hope Keith spoke to the viewer before deviating from the drawing!
Good morning Keith! Nice job. Have a great weekend.
Almost looks like a shaft for a Craftsman 109 lathe, with out the flange .
nice
Keith, were those flats, dimples, and the woodruff key slot ( timed )?
Follow the print, not the part when you have one. If it is wrong you can point to the print and say that is what you wanted me to make. The old part is just a reference.
Thank you for sharing.👍
The original seemed to have a grove in the middle of the shaft. Was that just wear, or cut for an O-ring, or. . .
Thanks Keith.
I'm guessing that the customer called out the length of the threads and overlooked the chamfer at the end.
I gave a machinist a sketch of a powder wedge with all non-critical measurements that I took using a wooden Smoky the Bear ruler. He lost his crap because the sketch said 1/8" and the groove was actually.110, needless to say, I never made that mistake again.
Happy Friday Keith! 😊
Send that broken shaft to PK for repair. Wearing nothing but a sheet & sandals, a tech will machine fit for a dowel then weld it all up on a dirt floor.
Is it an acceptable practice to use the caliper jaws as a scribe ??
For one-off work, yes. You can grind the jaw tips to be sharp., it's just scratching through the ink...
It's not really good for them but if you have worn calipers you may as well get a little more use from them. I have a pair of carbide jaw calipers that I use for the same thing since the inside jaws were damaged
👍👍👌👌
👍😎
Hello Kieth!!! Hey any word on Mr. Wiggins? Muss husband posting! Any word on what happened???
There’s no tolerance built into the print?
Could that shaft have broken due to a poor thread design😮 6:07
😛😛😛😛😛😛❤❤❤❤❤👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Or the print is correct and the longer thread is why it broke.
Just a thought but as that appeared to have snapped quite cleanly, was the original hardened?
I really enjoyed that little project. I only wish the person had sent a photo of what it did.
This looks like the main spindle shaft for a Craftsman 109 lathe (even down to that thin key, that's where the back gear assembly goes), although the break is where a collar would be.
@@timhatch1299 sound right, over tourqe at the chuck broke the chuck end off instead of the woodruff key. An extra Key might even been provided for the newbie purchaser. My my...
❤️🔥🫂❤️🔥
Good morning
LOL, I lost count of how many times the drawings did not necessarily match up with the prototype sample. Things like transposed numbers on the drawing or the wrong reference line.
I checked my nuts... I know I'm so middle school, but I'm middle-aged.
Inden TAY shuns. Youre missing a wholle syllable Keith
Keith has a few speakos. You'll get accustomed to hearing them.
@@WhatAboutTheBee millamachine
Actually indentions is correct...
@@CothranMike correct, it is an archaic term for indentation
@@WhatAboutTheBee thanks, was about to bring up the age but didn't want to appear like an ageist old man.
Don't apply for a job in a jobbing works shop Keith follow the sample not the person who did the drawing...lol
It could be that the part broke because the original was not designed properly for the manufactured part. Or the owner misused that part.?
@@paulsilva3346 Nothing to do with that!
Keith had the part but chose to copy the drawing. It is common sense to check the part (if you have it) against the drawing which was wrong. School boy error 101
The part failed as it was old and worn..simple as that.
@@theessexhunter1305 looked like a stress fracture, more than likely from sharp 60° thread with no radius used for the run out relief. That is what I see with these old eyes and zooming the image. This does look like a shop made repair, the odd angle for the setscrew points, lack of radius for the run out relief. Would not surprise me if this fails again after many more over torque tightening efforts by the hand of the operator. I have no idea what lathe uses a center shaft of any type, much less one this small. Might be a jeweler lathe for all I know. There are lots of those, many portable ones as well. Hence the many tightenings.
Edited to show I learned something... amazing isn't it. This is the shaft for a Sears mini lathe 109.
@@CothranMike Like a draw bar on a Mill, I undone/done one a Bridgeport 3/4 times a day 5 days a week for 5 years.
@@theessexhunter1305 we had one J head that needed a new threaded area tigged on around once a month. Cheap owner was stiffing the workers as well, no raises for nine years for one guy. I left within a month.