Monster Cane Mill Restoration: Babbitt - Pouring the Bottom Bearing Halves on the Drive Train Shafts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- Monster Cane Mill Restoration: Babbitt - Pouring the Bottom Bearing Halves on the Drive Train Shafts
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Keith, the way you used the damming material on the faces of the rings made perfect sense. I have never poured babbitt, but I've done some DIY in sinks, and it seemed to work just like plumber's putty on the drain. Thanks, it is always fun to have "coffee with Keith"!
Was thinking the exact same thing.
Great Job Keith.
Watching you pour the Babbitt, you look like a complete natural doing that.
Really nice job on the mandrel and disc.
Thanks for sharing the process.
Have a great week. 👍🇺🇸👍
years ago I worked with an Old Fella who taught me how to pour Babbitt Bearings whole not split like your doing. He would use oxy acetylene torch and made it smoke heavily then coat the shafts of the presses we were working on with that smoke. we build dams with clay and pour the babbitt. resulting in perfect clearance's no wobble or chatter smooth operation cup type wick oilers were used afterwords in some cases. this was back in the 1970s and he was 70ish I was early 20s
Thanks Keith for the video. One more step along the way. I hope we get to see the mill run when it all through.
I hope sometime in the next Decade we will get to see the Stoker Engine!
Would love if you showed this mill in action once it's done. Great progress, you make those bearings look easy.
Kieth has the nicest dude award
Well I’m power binging got some out of order but it is easy to fill in the blanks and all. Thanks for sharing.
Amazing! He put back together the two halves of Babbitts' shaft!
You used to put soot from the acetylene torch on the pouring mandrel to help it separate. Why didn’t you do that on this pour?
Cool babbit pouring 😊😊😊
Fantastic. Thanks for your willingness to invest the time to make these vids.
I have seen this many times before Keith. It was much appreciated, but new content would be good.
Thank you. I thought you would have a tough time getting the mandrill out because you didn’t apply the carbon. Not to worry it all worked out.
Very well done. You have demonstrated that a one man shop can do the job as long as you have the right tools.🙂🙂
Enjoyed the slightly more aggressive than usual speeds and feeds lol. Bearings came out really nice!
As always, thanks so much for making. Big huge thank you to you who produce the site creatively through perseverance and brains. It enables me to spend some time to learn new things, apply new things, and do all my work the way you inspire me.
The one man shop does a great job.
It take a tremendous amount of skill to make it look so easy.
not just the machine work but the video as well.
I am enjoying the work on the bearings, You do some very nice work.
I always look forward to your videos! Thanks Keith!
Hey Keith! Thanks for sharing another great installment on the refurbishment on the monster cane mill. It is progressing quite nicely. Cheers!
Thanks for another great video.
I'm really enjoying this series. I've watched you repair the little ones, in the case of most things, size does matter.
great job.
Thank you Keith!
This series of videos make a great drinking game. Just take a shot every time Keith says Babbit!! 😂❤
Keith always has two speeds, too fast and way too fast LOL Thanks for a great watch, I liked this one !!
Very good video. Excellent. Thank you.
Really appreciate your work and learning from you
Looking forward to seeing this working.
I saw another TH-camr use regular silicone sealant when pouring/vacuum casting bronze and copper. He used it to seal the form to the vacuum. It gets really hot and the silicone burns but he only needs it once. I suspect you could use the same idea for the face of the mandrel spacers.
keith Nice job on the Bearings !
Good job, Nice
It would seem that pouring babbitt would be just the sot. But Keith has a different take on it each time. Thanks for the video
Looking good Keith, nice pour.
Quite similar to an earlier episode. Well done.
Coming along nicely Keith.
Like other subscribers have said "You make it look easy". I noticed one thing different from other pours. The mandrel bearing surfaces were not coated in soot and it didn't seem to effect the removal of the mandrel form the pour. My question is how do you know when to coat and when not to? Thanks for the video. KOKO!
Fantastic work on this repair/restore. This project is really moving at warp speed. I guess retirement agrees with you. Thanks for sharing. Love your videos. (patiently awaiting the stoker engine. 🙂)
Good morning
Thx Keith!
Thank you for sharing. Great job Keith👍
Hi, Great video. Have you ever tried using the yellow Time Saver for lapping in the bearings?
Looking good
Lost art! Greatly appreciate this content.
I'm glad you are finally working on a more accessible area and a smaller shaft. The poor turned out great, Keith.
I was wondering how the mandrill would be centered in the frame, now I know.
I have a 1969 Well Index 845 and just upgrade my old glass scale DRO PROS to the same unit you installed on yours.
thank you
Keith, you normally blacken the shafts to prevent Babbitt from sticking.
Was there a reason you didn’t do it this time?
Dunno if I missed it, why no sooting the shafts?
love your videos
Thank you for another Great video. Cheers
looking good
Seems like only two of the spacers need to have the step. The other two could be flat rings. Two points make a line.
Looking good!
That's funny. I was sittin here thinking that he should put the damming on the inside face and squish it in with clamps.... lol
Thanks Keith
Someone asked about gaskets instead of damning material. I suspect flat gaskets would not fill and seal the rough casting as well as the damning material. Also the hot Babbitt would burn the gaskets out leaving a gap for the molten material to flow out.
Nice.
As always I enjoy your videos. I am curious , usually you carbon up the shafts when you pour babbitt , but you didn't this time. ?
The file that you used has the same pattern on it as the body files that are used to smooth lead in body work.
threads on the ends and the middle, BIG nuts on the ends and the middle to tighten the flanges on the cast iron, possibly?
Watching for years! Thanks Keith!
Is it possible to wrap a wire around the mandrel to create a channel for oil, especially in the lower half of the bearing shell? You cold possibly flatten the wire a bit in a ring roller or similar equipment to make the channel wider and less deep. It would have to be tight on the mandrel in order for it to be pulled out of the babbit at the end of the pour.
cool
Maybe (at 23 mins) pour in the centre, nor at one end? Regardless, an interesting video and outcome. Thanks.
👍
Looks like one of the bearing caps has a piece broken off. Is Keith going to repair that before pouring the Babbitt in it?
Why did you not suet up the shafts before the pour? just wondering.
Keith, would there be any advantage in using the laser cutter and making shims out of gasket material instead of the mold pack? Like the shims you made for the caps on the larger drum.
That's an idea. wonder if you're suggestion would work and if so the ultimate pro's and cons.
Anyways, being a tight arse myself even just as much with other peoples money and resources too...! I got to say that the minimal babit material he used this time made me really happy! I know he re-uses most of it anyway so this new set up won' change how much he needs per job. But it still albeit 'temporarily' soothes my own niggle issues, I got to confess on that one.
Removing excess Babbit - would it be possible to trim the excess off with a wood chisel?
Good morning Keith1 Great progress! Have a great week!
was it something about the mandrel surface that made it so that you didn't have to soot them up?
Happy Monday Keith! 😊
🎉 💙
Babbitt pours with Keith are my kind of ASMR.
Each episode gets more exciting. Can't wait to see that monster whirl.
Nice work! How did you determine the diameter of the shelf on the damming rings?
Unfortunately one of the bearing caps is missing a mounting lug. Wonder if that's an issue you need to address?
how much oil clearance do you need for a babbit bearing?
I did not see you soot the shafting to keep the babbitt from sticking to the shaft
Why didn't you soot up the shaft?
Any reason you didn't 'smoke' the shaft ?
Let's get at it!
That’s a vixen file, they are hard to find and I use mind in aviation sheet metal work.
So are the Donner and Blitzens!
Other
Sometimes also called a Dreadnought file
quick question... if the babbitt bearing is a little bit tight... can you just put some lapping compound in there and work it for a minute or is scraping a better option? will lapping compound embed into the babbitt?
I'm sure regular lapping compound will embed into the babbitt, according to some people diamond based lapping compound can embed into cast iron too.
@@ruben_balea OH. good to know!
👍👍👍👍
Question; you didn’t smoke these barbets any reason???
Do you check straightness of the mandrel before pouring? While I own a vehicle with poured bearings (an old Ford) I'm a modern engine guy so I always assumed things like this got line honed after pouring.
why not put the mold-pac on both surfaces, before clamping?
16:20 no black shud? (don’t know how you write it)
Soot
I thought the same thing, we have watched so many of his videos we expected this step
why are you using oil and not food grade grease? won't that need to be cleaned off 110% before using the mill ?? I assume it will be used once in a while ?
I guess he's using "way oil" or hydraulic oil and those aren't toxic.
It will all wash off when it's used as an anchor for the Tally Ho Ho Ho!
@@ruben_balea no but they taste like crap 😂
just a quick question why are there sparks at the start of some cuts? please
it's where the cutting tool is hitting the hardened steel from the cutting process
@johnmolnar2957 thanks 👍
When you say 250°, would I be right in thinking they're using the Fahrenheit system, or are you using centigrade?
Yes, he uses Fahrenheit like 99% Americans. In slang language are called "degrees Frankenstein" 😅
Technical people who use Celsius will usually say degrees Celsius or degrees centigrade to avoid confusion.
@@ruben_balea Many thanks.
@@simonsallen You're welcome
@@ruben_balea Hey Ruben, we "slang" Americans put men on the Moon and won WW2 with our Imperial system so we don't need any snide remarks from some "Metric Snob" !
@@garybrenner6236 Hey! Calm down! The American TH-camrs themselves are the ones who call Fahrenheit degrees "Frankenstein degrees" in their videos to look funny.
I have nothing against the imperial system which I use a lot for thread sizes and pressures, I just said that in case the OP hears the "Frankenstein" thing in other videos and wonders what that means.
No carbon smoke on the mandrel this time? Any reason other than it smokes up the workshop. The earrings look good, nice work.
Did you forget to smoke the shaft?
I wonder whether filling the keyway with damming material would have been a way to use the actual shafts for the babbit pours.
I was thinking that filling the excess keyway with brass braze would do it.
Since he had the shaft in a lathe anyway l'm curious as to why he didn't just weld up the overlength part of the keyways.
He went over all of that in the last video. Gk watch it
I would be concerned about trash getting into the bearing surface and causing damage if he leaves the keyway open.
I agree with brazing that in solid and machining it to size.
5:34??
No carbon black coating?
Because you didn't use the original shafts with the gear install, how do you know if you have proper tooth engagement?
General area is good enough.
The tolerance on this stuff is huge.
He already turned the shafts and had the diameter. The Mandel shafts have the same diameter.
@@hobbiesrus That doesn't answer his question at all.... He is asking How Keith knows if the gear will mesh correctly with the internal ring gear (not too far down not too far up), just having used a shaft and rings which are centering the bearings in the middle of the casting.
The real answer here is, i honestly believe he just assumed its in the center. This would have been the perfect job for 3D printing.. Print a shell put it in and check alignment with the internal ring gear.
@@FireGodSpeed This isn't a precision machine where tolerances have to be held to the .001". He isn't going to waste time 3D printing stuff to get the clearances and alignment just perfect.
@@tsmartin Honestly people like you shouldn't comment. Looking at my comment, nowhere did i say it was "precision" "tolerances to .001%" "Just perfect" I literally said and i copy and paste "How Keith knows if the gear will mesh correctly with the internal ring gear (not too far down not too far up)".
You are 100% wrong there are* 2 tolerances which could make it or break it, it can be 10-20-30 thou maybe even more higher but 30 thou LOWER could make the gear hit the bottom of the teeth of the internal ring gear and the side tolerance if he was 20-30+ thou to far to the right (on the right one) it could also prevent the gears from meshing entirely.