** It looks like you guys sold them out of the MR13A and MR13B ** Need a drill grinder? Vevor MR-13A (split point): amzn.to/3SLnMRt Vevor MR-13B (web thinning): amzn.to/3ypeGmL Drill Doctor DD500X: amzn.to/4ctKEME Drill Doctor DD750X: amzn.to/3AkQ2Ee
Opening DOES NOT VOID THE WARRANTY IN THE US. It is illegal for manufacturers to state that it does. Look up the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. If a company states that it does then report them to the FTC!!!!
Oh no, Vevor got to you too? I became a little suspicious when I started seeing Vevor in a large percentage of the channels I subscribe to. I'm still researching but I'm pretty sure they're a CCP controlled company I'm only joking about them getting to you but I have seen Vevor products on so many channels lately...
I bought my drill doktor about 15 years ago after grinding my own bits for at least 30 years prior. I thought I needed a more consistent grind. After reading the instructions and trying to put them into practice for a good couple of hours, I put the drill doktor back in the box and back on the shelf for a coupla more years to gather dust. It really ate at me that I couldn't figure it out so one afternoon I dragged it back out and set it up and tried again after thoroughly reading the instructions. It is back on the shelf, and anyone is welcome to it for free. And thank you Francis (mechanic I worked with when I was 20) who tawt me how to grind bits...and a million other things. My bits look just like your middle bit. Just remember kids, that the more times you have to regrind a drill bit, the better you get at it. Thank you again Wes!
I had two years of machine trades in high school,two years of trade school , and a three year apprenticeship in tool and die. I’ve worked in the trade for thirty years. I’ve drilled a hole or two. 15 odd years ago the engineers conspired with management and they decided we needed a drill doctor. Best thing ever ,they said. We were all skeptical , to say the least. After a couple weeks of tweaking and fiddling with the thing. We had the same results as you and Wes. It will indeed make a drill sharp however the geometry is so bad it won’t cut. Perhaps if you’re using cheap china drills and only drill pine 2x4s it’s adequate, but for anyone who knows how a sharp drill cuts in steel the drill doctor is a complete and utter failure.
I think you made a good point. Buy a bench grinder and a box of HF $10 bits and just practice sharpening them. You will be better off and have a skill.
The same experience here. I have friends who swear by them. Something I read a long time ago on the garage Journal was that Drill Doctor produced a batch of defective units about the time you are talking about, my time also. The company was taken to court but never admitted the problem. I also read that if you ignore the settings and use a new bit to establish new ones it does work. I was so underwhelmed with it I never tried but it may work. Again, this just what I read. Maybe someone can try it to see if it does. I probably will over the winter, or finally toss it.
I have an old blue green colour drill doctor and it actually works out of the box very well , remember it is a very old one. At work we have a new grey colour drill doctor and it has all of the problems you encountered and it’s junk nearly $600 dollars her in Australia. Will keep an eye out for a visor unit.
I can literally see your wife walk in to check up on you since it's past midnight, you've got reading glasses on and she takes one look at the 'No Drill Doctor' chalkboard map and shakes her head. Bravo Wes
@@Andy_Hinners. I'm originally from the first small farm town north of Flint Michigan Mt. Morris and I didn't even notice that Oops a daisy. Coast Guard transferred me down to Coast Guard Airstation Miami from Airstation Traverse City Michigan in 79 and I fell in love with no snow slip and slide salt encrusted winters with everything green and lush 365 so when my enlistment was up and I moved back up to Tragic City Michigan in November 80 2 and a half years later divorced and with custody of my daughter and courts permission I moved back to Miami with 10 years down in the Keys (96-06). 5 of my 6 siblings moved to Florida for the same reasons. Cars actually make it to their warranty limits not having become rust encrusted. Unless you drive them on a ocean side beach then Michigan winter roads are less of a danger to the steel on your car. Do I miss Michigan summers, hunting, camping and the ability to swim in lakes, ponds, rivers and other bodies of water without becoming dinner for Alligators, Crocodiles, Pythons and Boa Constrictors (the last two thanks to idiots who let them loose when they got to big to handle and no one else wanted them except boot, belt, vest and hat makers) dinner. Sometimes until I go out fishing for Dolphin, Snapper, Grouper and other yummy seafood items. Going to the sandbar party at Whale Harbor in Islamorada where there's hundreds of hotties in extremely small bikinis Mt Bebita Colombian Wife is trying to catch me oogling. I've become something of a pro at that.
Years ago I bought the more expensive Drill Doctor and went on a sharpening spree and sharpened all the bits in my 55 year old set of drills. Some of them sharpened OK but some had a negative lip clearance angle and barely cut warm butter. Due to your video I checked, the bits that with a negative negative lip pitch angle had thick webs. I spent a lot of time trying to sharpen those dam bits but had the same results you did. Incidentally, the shots of the drills being sharpened were very clear and really told the story. Thanks, now I don't feel so stupid.
I used to have an older Drill Doctor 700 before it was stolen, and it used to sharpen all my 118-degree HSS bits without any problems I can't remember having difficulties with relief angle, even on the larger bits. After I bought a DD 750X sharpener I found I couldn't sharpen those same bits nearly as well, with negative relief usually happening on all sizes. I now have to routinely insert the chuck a few clicks to the left to get bits that actually cut, especially on smaller bits down to 1/8" that my old 700 had no problem sharpening. So much for "progress"... Even though I swore I would never buy anything else from Vevor after buying a POS torque multiplier that was about as bad as anything can be, maybe I'll have to swallow my pride and get one of their MR13B sharpeners.
Just like with the 2x-priced sharpener, if you learn how to line them up by eye, you can sharpen them just fine in the drill dr. It's a poor craftsman who blames his tool.
I purchased a DD for my father when they were newly available. Maybe 1980? In 2014 my parents moved from their home of 43 years. Next to the unopened B&D Shopmate(vise on a saw horse) was the unopened Drill Doctor. I took it home and, with my cousin's help, we sharpened hundreds of, mostly Hanson brand, drill bits. We had trouble with a number of them but 10 years later my father is still amazed. I think you and Project Farm did great videos on bit sharpening. Unlike many in West Michigan, I am not in Tool & Die. Only recently started welding and you tube is a big help. Thx
Awesome follow up video. I had a drill doctor. It rotted in the corner because I hated the results but didn’t want to throw away money I had already thrown away. Sold it for 10 bucks at my wife’s garage sale just to unload it. The guy that bought it thought he had just hit the jackpot. Good luck bro.
I love it, you say no one watched a video on sharpening drills, so you double-down and make a second one!! I wonder how drill DR worked on your 3d printed drills?
Wes, I have had 2 of the original DD500's with the 750 chuck and left hand chuck options for over 30 years. I have never had a problem with sharpening bits. I have drill bits from literally every MFG ranging from thick wed to thin, tight to loose spiral etc. I also acquired a Grizzly H8203 from the tent sale, pre covid ($40, Had a broken wire, new in box, bought it cheap, works great once I repaired it) Now the style of DD you tested, I am not impressed with but the originals are awesome. With the DD there is a bit of fudge factor when setting up and that is determined after just one or 2 initial twists then inspect before completely attempting to sharpen. Once you learn the tricks, it can actually make for a nice evening with a beverage and sharpening a box of bits in need of tlc. (love my auction/garage sale/swap meet finds)
As a Mechanical Engineer, Hotrodder, and all around "tinkerer" I've been drilling holes in things for more years than I want to think about (65 now and retired but still making metal chips)! I learned how to sharpen drill and lathe tool bits by hand a LONG time ago! Having said that, I bought a Drill Doctor about 30 years ago and still dig it out from time to time to "freshen up" my old, tired drill bits. It took a little getting used to at first but as with everything "Practice makes better, nothing is ever Perfect". It still works fine and has paid for itself and then some versus buying new bits...
@@PhilG999 I'm a retired HD mechanic, I also have drilled a Brazilian holes, I can sharpen a bit in 30 seconds( minute) and not get pissed while fooling with that bit sharpener. But I have no patience, maybe that's why I haven't succeeded. See ya later
I'm the same age as you and learned drill sharing in school in the Navy. A few years later my father who was a die maker showed me his way which was easier. The place I work at about 20 years ago got a drill doctor because nobody in the shop but me could hand sharpen. Drill doctor took a little practice but in worked okay.
@@michaelcook2220 Hand sharpening is a lost art these days! My machine shop instructor in Jr College (my first MET degree) was a crusty old, retired Navy machinist. The first thing he told us on the first day of class was "You won't get an "A+" unless you can do it better than *I* can"! First tool to make was a lathe bit, hook, radius, backrake, the whole thing. We had a drawing but had to do it "by eye". When I handed it to him after the first try, he looked at it, then looked me in the eye and said: "That'll do"... I made "As" on every project that whole year! Still have that lathe tool to this day, along with all my projects. Those came in handy years later when I went to work for a company as an Engineering "Contractor". Shop foreman mentioned he went to the same school and still had HIS projects! I took mine in the next day and we compared them. My work was better! BTW my Granddad was a Lockheed Machinist...
I've got an older Drill Doctor that I inherited when a former employer eliminated their little machine shop. I think "Good Enough" is the best way to describe it. It's worth more than I paid for it (nothing) and it keeps my drills usable.
It's better than nothing. Or if you have the hand eye-coordination of a blind apprentice who's been drinking too much coffee. Even on a bad day I can still hand-sharpen better than a Drill Doctor. But if someone took away my bench grinder, and I had a box of dull bits and a job that needed doing, it'd be better than plowing dull bits into a workpiece.
I have got very good use out of mine. The demonstration of the tool shows he didn't keep the holder in contact with the edge the full 360 degrees. It is no wonder he had less than desirable results. Just like anyone else who doesn't follow the directions correctly.
@@joelfenner The main difference for me is that I have to actually think and pay attention when sharpening by hand. It takes a lot of concentration, but the Drill Doctor is just something you can do on autopilot with very little concentration needed. So sometimes that in itself is a distinct advantage.
I’m the guy that has the drill bit drawer stuffed with inherited or loose found bits from farm auctions. Anything that resembles a quarter inch or smaller diameter I religiously sharpen with my 40 year old cheap (the blue one) Drill Doctor, larger diameter I reluctantly sharpen on a bench grinder when it feels like it is working too hard. I believe you are spot on and I love the video.
My experience. I bought a drill doctor 500 twenty or more years ago. Couldn't get a drill bit sharp to save my life. I wrote it off as junk and it ended up in the far recesses of my tool pile. Fast forward a few years, I saw the 750 and thought it must be better, so I bought that. Same results, same fate. I have a drawer full of drill bits and last year I was working on a project that I had half-a-dozen larger bits the same size, all dull. I finally got so frustrated, I broke down and read the instruction manual cover to cover. What an eye opener! It explained the differences in bits and how to correctly set the different markings on the sharpener to the different bits. What a difference in my results. The bits came out consistently sharp. It actually became a joy to drill. I now touch up all my bits before I use them. BTW, I have also done some machine shop work, and here in the US, even in small shops we had drill sharpening machines, with several different mandrels for the bits. Heavy old machines that cost a lot of money. For my money, in my shop, hands down, Drill Doctor is #1.
I put pressure on him to make the video and I watched. Also this is one of his most watched videos in over a year and it’s only the first day. The squeaky wheel gets the oil
At least you are using Hagoromo chalk, the mark of a true professional! I personally love watching your videos and I appreciate your wife’s support as well in the whole endeavor.
Wes spends a month making an unpopular video on drill bit sharpening and doubles down on a drill sharpening video about a specialized piece of Amazon garbage....bravo sir! Love it. The internet needs heroes like you.
@@NoferTrunionsI'll give the @theroosterblocker the benefit of the doubt and assume he's trying to turn "Amazon garbage" into an anthimeria figure of speech, but he's probably just too young to remember anything before Amazon. It's like most kids these days that can't conceptualize a world that existed without cell phones, the internet and the constant expectation of instant gratification.
I am a retired toolmaker and use my sharpened drills in an electric drill, a drill press and a CNC machine. If you start with quality bits the Drill Doctor will do a fine job of sharpening them consistently. All my drills are split point, cobalt HHS with both 135 and 118 degree tips. The sharpened drills cut easily and to size. Before my Drill Doctor I sharpened drills by hand, but never as well or quickly as the Drill Doctor.
I bought a Derrex drill sharpener many years ago and absolutely love it. Left or right hand, web thinning, split point, 25 to 95 degree, HSS, Carbide. I’ve made music wire and doll pins into drills for steel. It advertised as easy to use, so I sharpened three full drill sets perfectly before I read the instructions. Love it!
I never watched the first video, I think it was 1977 I was taught how to sharpen drill bits, the old boy I was working under got sick of me asking him to sharpen a bit so he showed me how. Truly a great skill to have. Fast forward a whole bunch of years to about 2002. I was field service and we had a bunch of machines that were having breaking bolts for the swing bearing and track rollers. Lots of drilling involved. I got sick of crawling out from under an excavator and sharpening bits, so I bought a drill doctor and would have it under the machine with me, once the drill quit drilling easy I would just do a quick touch up. It worked really good. I wore that one out, it was one of the older ones that could do twist drills, left hand drills and masonry drills. I tried to buy the parts to repair but Drill Doctor no longer made that style but they gave me a deal on a brand new one. It is no where as good as the old one was, in fact I don't even use it anymore, well I am retired, but before I retired I hardly used it. And I did work in a machine shop at one time. They had this big fancy bit sharpener, I forget what make. It was pretty much useless for anything under 1" but big bits, oh yes. And yes all the machinist were perfectly capable of sharpening a bit but this thing sped things up and with a perfect every time, they used it quite a bit
There aren't many people who I would watch make a video about sharpening drill bits, and only one I'd watch do that twice. Really enjoy your dry sense of humor, looking forward to the next one.
Hi, Wes. I love your content and never miss an episode. I have a Drill Doctor, two in fact. I couldn't say why but I never threw out a dull bit and had a whole container of them. Then the DD came along and fixed my problem with dull bits. The first time I used it, it paid for itself multiple times over. I love it! But I got mine at least 15 yrs ago, and only do homeowner stuff. Good luck on all your work.
i've used the Drill Doctor for years. i got mine back in the late 80s? maybe it was the 90s. when i got it, i could still sharpen bits free hand like my Dad taught me, it was just time consuming for me. i worked in automotive repair and i used drill bits regularly. mostly on broken bolts that someone else had done, but i did break my own share too. i had collected a lot of broken and dull bits over the years tossed out by other people. some i had sharpened when i needed them, but most sat in a drawer or a box waiting for when i had the time and felt like sitting at a grinder. when i got it i watched the Drill Doctor VHS tape a couple of times, then carried it to work, mounted it on my bench, and did a few bits. not all, but most worked ok, the broke bits took way too long to fix with the Drill Doctor. i watched the vid a couple more times, did some more bits and started getting better results. although it did have problems with the wider webbed bits, my Drill Doctor has done thousands of bits with good results and most of the time a lot faster than i could have done them by hand. years later a friend i worked with way back when i first got it was working at another shop and remembered how well mine worked. they got one and it didn't work at all. i went up and tried it and only on the larger bits did it do anything close to a decent job,.. for drilling wood. that one didn't last very long, it got knocked off the bench a few times and ran over once and it was done. they got a second one and mounted it. he told me it also wasn't working very good. i went up and tried using it, nothing i did let me get a decent bit from it. a few days later i found mine and took it to the shop, mounted it and proceed to get good results right away on the same bits. i don't think the quality is the same, and from my recent experience with newer versions, i agree, for someone drilling wood or maybe thin mild steel and using narrow webbed bits the DD is ok.
Thank you for the information. I got one for Christmas one year, and could never get it to work correctly. Brother in law taught me how to sharpen drill bits using a bench grinder, and I put the DD back in the box, and gave it to a co-worker that I hate.
just did about 20 bits yesterday with my DD, all look good. i will say, getting one of the MR13s does sound good, but kind of hard to justify the price while my DD is still ok for me. on the wide webbed bits i can still roll them around the grinder.
My Drill Doctor was a gift from my in-laws in 2003/4, it's the green 1-trick pony that only does 'normal/plain drill bits'. I still use it, I love it, I'm sad the plastic is starting to fail from age. What I've since learned over the years is that mine is an anomaly. After a heated discussion on the topic at work, myself and several others had a 'bring your Drill Doctor to work day'. Of the several identical looking drill doctors, mine was the oldest by a margin of 10 years and subsequently the only one the worked correctly. That gray one you are testing, I have never seen one that delivered a properly sharpened drill bit. In fact, I'm shocked they can still sell them. Our shop had the same negative rake issue you showed but weren't in position to rip it apart (tax payer money) so we just got a refund. Excellent video Wes.
I would have to agree. I have the original 750 model. I will use a split point on sizes 1/4 and smaller but I won't waste my time on larger split points. One of my high school buddies worked in Ashland for the Drill Doctor company when they first got started and everything was in house. He was with them until the newer model came out...the crappy grey one that never seemed to work right for larger bits. It was still assembled in Oregon but the parts were crap and very difficult to get it to work properly. Mine still works excellent to this day. I keep it in the hard case and get it down off the shelf about once a year and clean up all the bits that I broke or damaged. Sharper than new I seem to remember was the logo and he convinced me to buy one. I also remember buying a replacement diamond drum for it but I don't ever remember changing it.
An 8" bench grinder is the same price (or even less) and is overall WAY more useful. Glad I was taught properly by my elders and never wasted any money on a Dr Drill Wrecker
Idiot newbie here, so please forgive the ignorant question. You specify 8" grinder -- is it way better than the 6"? I'm looking to buy, but I trust Wes' watchers WAY more than the rest of the unqualified hacks throwing their opinions around on the internet. LOL
@@obsidianjane4413 This is simple to answer, a Bench grinder. I paid $100 USD for my bench grinder. I was taught years ago that the drill doctor didn't sharpen drill bits correctly. I have saved more money with my bench grinder than a drill doctor would have saved me so in the long run a bench grinder is cheaper.
@@obsidianjane4413a drill doctor did one thing. Badly. A bench grinder can do many things. At the skill of the user. Did you watch the part of the video where he said that?
Probably the best intro I've seen lol gave off some Jeff Burick/James Corbett vibes! Check them out if you all want to get informed on what the overlords have planned for us.
I am a machinist and have used a drill doctor at a past manufacturing shop. It was kept in a box in the tool crib and only came out when a very small drill such as the smallest number drills needed a touchup. Otherwise everything was sharpened on bench grinders.
Wes, I just watched the drill sharpening video, and it was extremely helpful. After trying to learn in the shop, your 3-d printed visual aids really helped, and your explanations did, too. Don't pay so much attention to percentages - there are a lot of us out there who really appreciate the time you take, and I will never buy a drill doctor. Thanks so much, Victoria
I bought a Drill Doctor. It was $5 at a yard sale in the box so I picked it up to see what I was missing. Now it sits on the shelf here collecting dust. I never got it to work right. It did that negative rake grind like Wes shows.
I've owned a Drill Doctor for about 20 years. I now have a 500X and a PKX drill doctor. I watched your video very closely and I don't know if your machine came with a DVD or any instructions but mine came with a DVD and a small book which is very essential to successful sharpening. On the face of the chuck that holds the drill for sharpening is a line that should be used to ensure the bit is lined up correctly. The cutting edges of the bit should be lined up with the line in the face of the chuck. As the DVD brings out not all drills are made the same. Some have much more twist than others. The thickness of the web also affects how the drill doctor holds the bit. Using the line on the face of the chuck will help a lot. Also, There are many holes in the jig which holds the chuck when you are setting the depth grinding for sharpening the drill. One in the center is clearly labeled for 118 degrees, in my DVD it states that to sharpen 135 degree drills the chuck should be aligned one or two holes to the right side (-) to achieve the proper relief angle (you have to experiment a little on this, but turning the chuck does change the relief angle). This has worked wonderfully for me and I have been able to successfully sharpen all of my drill bits. The Drill Doctor is a wonderful tool, but like so many other tools it must be used properly. Project Farm has a good video on the Drill Doctor, in which he shows the proper alignment for 135 degree drill bit sharpening. The Drill Doctor can handle from 3/32" all the way up to 3/4" if you have the proper chuck. Most can only sharpen up to 1/2" but the 3/4" chuck only cost around $25.00 last time I checked. With the correct chuck all of the Drill Doctors can handle up to 3/4" bits. Both of my Drill Doctors put a great edge on all my bits. Enjoyed your video, try the drill doctor again with correct settings.
Love the drill bit sharpening series. The deeper into the weeds we get the more fun I'm having. Would be awesome to see a video about grain structure and hardness of grinding wheels next.
The drill sharpening series may get cut short if Wes fell in love with that lovely dozer. That looks like a 10 to 20 part series. I have loved the drill sharpening series so far too.
A lot of machinists use tool sharpeners when it really counts. Most machinists should have one in the shop if they do any lathe work. But to set up the tool sharpener just to sharpen a drill for making a hole in some sheet metal doesn’t make sense. Hand sharpening is way faster.
We had a drill sharpener in the production shop I worked in. It wasn't a Drill Doctor though. Mostly we just ran twist bits until they were shot then scrapped them. We'd get a lot of holes out of a single bit so by the time we tossed it that bit didn't owe us a thing. A lot of them I'd blow the bit apart. Split it clean up the web. There'd be nothing to sharpen.
Your explanation at 5:50 is EXACTLY what I've been trying to understand about my DD. I want SO MUCH to love this tool, but it either misaligns the cutting features or leaves a cutting edge that is LOWER than the material that trails it. Kind of an ANTIsharpener, in that case. It's frustrating. I keep hoping DD will put out some fix or some solution that makes a bad tool a good one.
@@randywl8925 The B mod. I have a bunch of 3 generation of hand me down drills that are finally going to get the love they deserve. The b model seemed more appropriate for the thick web style.
That hand sharpening drill bit video is super useful and it's one that people can refer to for as long as it's up - the view count on it will rise for years.
I’m with willsmith: have had it for YEARS, and love it! I’m 82, and my first serious jobs were in pretty high tech (for the 1950’s) shops and huge volume (millions per year) production businesses, and every one of them had a very expensive sharpener for drill bits. At first had troubles with my Drill Doctor, but after really paying attention to set up, have been able to sharpen every one of several hundred bits perfectly-and I buy the best they have at the local hardware store. Yours, unfortunately, was a “Monday” or “Friday” assembly job. That said, those thick bits you got just do not do it.
Thank you. I have been using the Drill Doctor for several years and have been, overall, happy with it. Before sharpening, the bit has to be positioned in the drill chuck and inserted in a manner where two arms with pointed ends engage the bit flutes. Once that is done, the bit must be then snugged down in the chuck which is then moved to the hole for sharpening. It is difficult to position small diameter bits such that the arms engage the flutes on the bit, and that is apparently necessary to correctly position the bit in the chuck for proper sharpening. By the way, the link you placed for Vevor shows it is not currently available.
Have had a Drill doctor on my TH-cam channel off and on for 10 years. It's a great trick to trigger comments cause of the love hate they have. 90% of the time I am a hand grinder guy. But a small folger coffee can sits next to my drill doctor. I break or burn down a bit I cut the tip off flat and throw it in the can. Every few month when killing time I throw them in the Doctor for a quick regrind then hand finish them to live in the trash drill can I grad for drilling out rusty stuff. Somehow along the way the drill doctor got ladled a finishing tool when it's really a regrind prep tool.
Awesome and Thank you for making me feel better about myself. I purchased a drill doctor several year ago and dulled every bit that i ownec that night 🌙.
Can't speak to Drill Doctors of late but the Drill Doctor I bough, the Handyman 250, over 25 years ago is stellar and I've been using the drill bits it has sharpened ever since.
My dad bought a drill Doctor 25 years ago and it was the greatest thing since sliced cheese. My mentally deficient godson was able to use it and all the bits came out better than new
this exactly aligns with my experience with the Drill Doctor. a coworker owned one and loved it. All of his bits came from Harbor Freight, and he had good results. So he offered to sharpen a few of my old aircraft grade bits with thick webbing, and they ended up just like yours did.
I see the dropping bevel where the cutting edge isn't the "highest" point but based on how it works to align the drill-bit (I've got a 750 I got for free) I don't see how it's misaligning so badly? can you manually rotate it back an appropriate amount of degrees before tightening it to resolve the issue?
I'm not sure why I missed this video when it was released. I was trained to sharpen drill bits by hand, and have done for years. When my eyes were getting wonky I bought the old-style Drill Doctor which is equivalent to what they might now call the 'Classic 750' to do the 1/8" bits that I use a ton of. Worked great for that. I started to get a bit lazy and use it for larger bits as well - bits that would have been easy enough to do by hand. I just sit down at my desk and sharpen up anything that is getting dull in my big sets. It does a fantastic job. I now have the big-brother to the one in your video (I have the 750X), and it also does a fantastic job. I do *not* split the point. I re-sharpen everything to 118 degrees regardless of the original point geometry. Depending on the speed of the helix you need to adapt the rotation of the chuck in the sharpener. You can insert it in dozens of different position, and a different brand of bit will require a different position, but once you find the correct position for that set, you just write it on the index with a sharpie and you are good to go forever. Why do I not split the point? I pilot drill. Every time. I drill lots and lots of holes by hand, and pilot drilling with a 1/8" bit is far more accurate than drilling with a 1/2" bit right out of the gate. Pilot for position, then the next bit will follow that hole and you will end up with a properly located hole. I still sharpen by hand when I need something odd-ball, like a 90 degree nose, or a flat nose to make a counter-bore, or whatever, but I really appreciate being able to sit down and sharpen my bits reliably at my desk. I love it. Edit: Just in case it wasn't clear, changing the rotation of the chuck when you are setting it up for grinding (as I alluded to above) adjusts the relief angle. You can get any angle you want (within reason) by adjusting that rotation. This would solve the problem that Wes had with the 135 degree bit. I have used many different drill sharpeners over the years, including the General sweep-type and whatnot, but the convenience and good results of the Drill Doctor is the best solution for me.
I like how you said a while back “no one seems to care if I put a ton of extra time into editing videos” and you’ve added all sorts of theatrics 😂 love the videos man keep it up. You are correct as a machinist, drill doctor is rubbish
My dad bought a drill doctor years ago. We used it a few times maybe. It’s been sitting gathering dust. I much rather hand sharpen drills by eye than use that thing. You’ve got my attention with the vevor sharpener.
I've used the Drill Dr, it worked great. I also watched your other video about hand sharpening. With everything I can do in the shop and the wide array of skills that I have, hand-sharpening a twist drill just isn't one of them. But thanks for BOTH of these videos showing both sides of the story.
I've had my Drill Doctor for about 30 years. If you read and follow the instructions, it works fine. I haven't had any issues, but I have never sharpened any drill bit over 1/2in. I also have a bit sharpener attached to my grinder, but rarely use it.
Depending on the year it was made, the instructions can be a bit of a headache to decipher. I personally found it easier to learn how to use the thing once I tossed them out. Lol. But, I agree. I've been using mine for a number of years now (picked it up used for a few bucks). I'm not even sure it can fit a bit larger than 1/2", but then again it's designed more for your average home garage. It's not going to meet the standards that are required in any reputable machinist's shop, but that's not the intended target (nor should anyone think so). If I have to touch up a larger bit, then I'll do so by hand. But, for the more common sized ones (that I've some how amassed a dragons hoard worth of), I'll let them build up and then quickly sharpen the while like in a few minutes. Something that hand sharpening would require far longer as my focus begins to wain.
I have now learned more about drill sharpening than I ever thought possible. I learned how to sharpen drill bits on my own one day. We were drilling 3/4 inch holes in plates to fab up a metal building; and we had a LOT of holes to drill.. and the bit was smoking the lube and wouldn't hardly drill and the press was getting worked hard.. and I knew I couldn't make it any worse, so I just took it to a grinder and experimented.. I tried to sharpen it about 3 different times, in different ways.. and then suddenly it was cutting like butter. At that time, I didn't even know that sharpening drills was even possible at all-- I had never seen anything about it or heard about it... I feel like an expert now. :)
Never a "Dull" moment Wes, get the pun...dull. I enjoyed the first drill video, and thought I left a positive comment. I am happy that vevor is a good machine/tool. My step son does use a drill, I set in a chair whining about life. Old and useless, more forgotten than anything. I also found a channel you probably have watched. Cutting edge Australia.... I do think you and this fellows humor might just align if you haven't seen his videos. I like the size equipment he tackles plus lots of machine work... I truly miss using a lathe and a horizontal mill. I know that there are a ton of other machinist tools but for a guy who is just getting started.. good place to begin at. Setting up a crankshaft or camshaft machine is not for faint of heart.... Loved the art work as well
Thanks for the product review! There are so many drill sharpener products on the market. It's good to know that at least one of the affordable ones isn't total junk.
Thank you, I bought a drill doctor years ago. had mixed results and could never get consistent split point angles. I scrapped it. Went on 10 years without one. After years of struggling and seeing other people range about the drill doctor. Bought best model in the market for a second time. Same crap again. I use Snap-on, Irwin, and matco bits. I think it's just for cheap bits. Glad I'm not the only one that had those results.
Love my drill doctor. I used to drill constantly on 16 gauge to 3/8 stainless ( 308 mostly) in the field. Careful to follow the instructions. Also I made a little modification to sharpen my 2% lanthanum tig tungstens. Very smooth and good arc starts. Read the instructions and practice. My drill bits come out nicely and cut well using drilling paste.
@@WatchWesWork Those instructions, though...they're a bit thick. My $5 yard sale DD does a more than adequate job of sharpening my Chinesium bits. Seeing as more of them get broken than dulled, it does decent at turning them into a shorter bit 😃
@@weldingfabrication77I bought two of the early versions, the have the diamond coated spindle under a clear cover. I simply drilled an 1/8 hole at an angle to insert the tungsten. As my tungstens are short ( always use a button back ) I use a small tip drill to hold the tungsten. Leaves a smooth finish. In my own shop ( 80% of my work is field ) I often buff the tungsten on a pedestal buffer for a tungsten that has great low amp starting and stability. Surface finish makes a huge difference at low amps on DC. Call me lazy but when fabbing parts that co$t thousands of dollars you need everything in your favor.
Glad to hear that it not just me. I have owned a drill doctor for over 20 years and have NEVER managed to sharpen 1 drill successfully. It always leaves negative rake (I think it might sharpen left hand drill bits) which keeps the nicely sharpened cutting edge from cutting.
Wow, I'm 71, a hobby car guy, fabricator, welder, etc. and I've never seen a thick web drill bit even though I have high quality bits like Morse and Cleveland. Even looking at the properly sharpened one, it's not clear how the chisel point works. I had an early DD and supposedly the plastic frame crept - The problem was the drill was not index properly ending in a negative cut angle. I have a new one like yours and for thin web it works OK. FYI I learned how to sharpen bits by hand and am good at it. But it was fun to use the DD when it did a good job.
Well holy shit. I’m watching and wondering “yeah, but I wonder if the vevor corrects this issue” and then you pull off the towel. Hell yes- exactly what I wanted to see! Big thanks!
Don't hesitate to make more drill bit videos. I know so much more about drill bits now. I'm just a layman I never knew the difference between a cheap box of bits and advanced bits made to drill through big sheets of metal. I wouldn't have known what to ask!
Now that I've watched two drill sharpening videos I'm awaiting the finale. We all know great sagas are always trilogies. Where would we have been without The Good the bad and the ugly, Return of the Jedi, The Dark Knight Rises, or LOTR Return of the King?
I had a drill doctor and after using it the bit was duller than what it was before, I now have a vevor and that works great, the dull bits that I have that are dull after the vevor drills through steel like nothing, and it's easy to use, it's one of the best tools I have ever bought
What you are sharpening are Twist Drills. Bits are the cutting tools that are held in 17:09 a Brace. Bits and Braces cut into wood, using the screw point, to feed the Bit into wood. Bits do not go into drill chucks, held by electric drill motors. Electric or hand drills can’t hold the square tang at the end of a Bit.
I gave my drill doctor away before even opening it. My dad tried valiantly to teach me to sharpen drills. He tried. I bought a whole box of drills and learned more profanity. Worked so far. The Vevor looks pretty cool. But where would my new vocabulary get used? 😊 Thanks for the video.
Being able to sharpen drill bits (118 degrees) is a huge advantage, having that little skill in a truck & bus shop and has paid off dozens of times over the years. Now that I understand the correct angles needed for the 135-degree bits, I will try them, too. I just wish I still had my young eyes, among other things ! I might just buy a Vevor machine to make it easier. Thanks for the videos! They are very helpful.
I've sharpened drills since the sixties. I operated a gang drilling machine with five drill motors and coolant. Loaded large witch hat shaped forged brake rotors for driveshafts. Large lathe heads fastened to the table, held them. Junk in metal like hitting center drills and dull bits ended up with busted drill bits. The big grinder was way over on the other side of the plant. Automatic quill stop, but I couldn't leave it running unattended. So, about every hour, I would run over and sharpen them. They were a little over an inch. And a few were busted. 135° split point, as close as I could get. Later on, a company I worked at had one. Of course my own drill bits are not made in China. I was really let down. Had to turn them in the holder to even get close. So much for one size fits all. I am glad I didn't waste my own money, thinking about saving time. A grinding wheel and dresser is way cheaper than DD. I wish I could find a sharpener that can sharpen the deep hole parabolic drill bits.
I agree that the Drill Doctor sucks with larger bits. I completely ruined a 1/2" bit recently with it. On the other hand, I've used it with bits smaller than about 3/8" with moderate success. The bottom line is I have one and I paid good money for it so I'll get what use I can out of it. Thanks for the comparison/review.
I have never had any success sharpening drill bits with my Drill Doctor. The various surfaces never line up, as you pointed out at 6:00. The finished Drill Dr - sharpened drills work ok as long as I start the hole with a starter drill. My uncle left me a bunch of them in his machinist’s box from when he was a tooling inspector in a defense plant in WWII. Someday my son will have to buy new ones, but for me, it’s a lifetime supply
Very nice demo. I have always sharpened by bits by hand with an 85% first pass success rate. Anything that I get wrong I can fix by just doing it again. The real test is to drill through a piece of metal and see how big the chips are. You are right about getting a bench grinder. It is a much better spend. The VEVOR looks like a good option for some people, but I can can get by just fine by hand. Thanks for the informative specialty video. Exactly what we need.
Watched the video and loved it. I too have been plagued by the not to reliable drill dr. Never could get it to work well enough. I also don’t go around buying everything that gets recommended to me from a TH-cam content creator. This however (thanks to your thorough review) I couldn’t pass up. Picked up the MR-13A and just got done sharpening 5 or 6 old bits I had lying around and they look fresh from the factory. Between your video and Mr. Pete’s it was pretty easy to get it dialed in. Seriously impressed! THANK YOU WES!!
Dude I dunno about your channel history, but I subscribed to some dude repairing farm equipment and now you're coming out as a whole ass engineer. Love it! :)
The real question- can we convince Wes to design and build his own drill sharpening machine for us folk who refuse to just learn to do it on a bench grinder!
@@G.Davis67 They make jigs for bench grinders. I have one made by General. It works better than the drill doctor, but that's not saying much. I guess if you want to make sure the drill bit is centered it's pretty good, but I prefer to just do it by hand.
If a Vevor product outclasses the competition: what an embaressement! They are not terrible, but certainly the harbor freight class for professionals. (looking at my Vevor optical fibre fusion splicer. It works reliable but certainly nothing show off.)
I have drill doctor that is 20-25 years old and looks different, it actually does a pretty good job. I will have to take a look at how the points line up but I know that I don't have a negative flute able when done. That still probably wont keep me from buying the orange one in the video. Thanks for the info.
I hand ground drill bits back in high school and machine shop so I know how to but I recently just bought a drill doctor and basically everything you said in this video I 100% agree with the drill doctor is made for someone like myself that is not in a machine shop that is not into heavy fabrication anything like that I buy harbor freight bits I get bits in garage sales and stuff like that that's not you know high quality high dollar bits so the drill doctor works perfect for me for someone that is in a machine shop and stuff I highly suggest hand grinding or the of the machine you got there they both serve a very good place they both have a price point and a consumer base very good video bud
I took my Drill Doctor apart, and use the diamond drum and motor assembly to sharpen my tungsten. I made a little jig that the motor is bolted to with angled holes to get different tip geometries.
Nice video - I watched the other one beginning to end. INTERESTINGLY...the technique I was taught is almost the reverse of yours...IE: grind the releif first with a twisting motion, working up to the cutting edge. I need to try your method soon, I think I'm going to like it better than the way I was taught!
The great thing about Wes is he can get me to watch not 1, but 2, count 'em TWO, videos about sharpening 'drills' (learned that also), and me actually coming away from it like, that was really interesting, now I know, in case I ever need to, and I don't wanna go back to not knowing! GREAT CHANNEL!!
There it's an adjustment for the relief. It has to do with the angle at which you insert the collet that holds the bit. Read the manual, the machine works fine. I have one and I love it.
I'm 1:15 into this video, and it's already my favorite WWW video of all time😂😂 I love the whiteboard on a clean, painted wall. It's almost... professional?
I just found your channel tonight so am subscribing and will watch all previous sharpening videos you have already produced. I realize I don’t even know what I don’t know about sharpening drill bits or any metal items with edges. I’m 59 and my dad already passed so I don’t even know who to ask. I’ll appreciate any good advice anyone can offer. Heck, I’ll appreciate any half fast advice anyone can offer!
Great nit noid in depth analysis. I’m not a professional and am not obsessed with the technical aspects of drill sharpening. I’ve used a drill Dr. for years and the drills I sharpen work just fine.
My dad had an old Drill Doctor (it came with a VHS how-to video). He was convinced it was junk and just told me dull bits were just a fact of life. I finally got it out, read the instructions, and for our cheapo bits, it worked. Turns out he didn't understand how to get the drill in the right orientation for sharpening and was just grinding off what little point his dull bits had left. I just sharpen them for him now.
Before I got serious about wood and metal working, I would occasionally hand sharpen drills,not expecting them do be perfect. Then I started woodturning, which requires as much skill sharpening the tools as cutting with them. There are some great jigs for aligning the tools, I started learning with some of them. Then my big boy pride and ambition convinced me that I could do it all free hand, I got good at this, but the jigs still worked better and faster. All this taught me about cutting edge angles, and relief angles. Many types of gouges, skews, and scrapers, all using different angles. Most important to understand is that bowl gouges, spindle gouges, roughing gouges, etc. usually are used rubbing the bevel on the wood, gently rotating until the cutting edge starts slicing the wood. So, with that understanding, I hand sharpen my drills, slight angle near the edge, steeper behind it, and can usually get good results. They cut like crazy, and usually very clean. If I get the center or point of the drill a bit off, not so clean, but perfect holes usually aren’t needed. That’s what forstner bits are for. Can’t drill metal with forstner bits, but if I need very accurate clean holes, I just experiment, keep resharpening until I get it right. With practice, and visualizing how the edges should look, anyone can get good at this.
I totally get your perspective, and you're right - the DD sucks on 135 degree bits, esp split points. BUT I'm a DIYer (ok a pretty serious DIYer), and I only have the inexpensive 118 degree bits. I bought the DD maybe 15- or so years ago, when there were not a whole lot of options for consumers. It's not great, but it does better than I do it by hand - which I used to do with a file and bench vice (before I owned a bench grinder). The DD is easy, it's quick and it does a good enough job for me that I can drill holes fairly easily. And I acknowledge that toward the end of the video, you said as much. Basically, I'm agreeing with you. If I was in the market for a sharpener today, I might still choose the DD because I just don't drill often enough to justify the extra expense. But your video has me thinking about that Vevor! Just my $0.02 ...
I like how the drill doctor conveniently captures all the filings on the magnet of its motor. Wonder how much sharpening you can do before the motor shorts out or uses the bits of metal as a nice abrasive.
@0:05: I watched it. Along with over 100k of my closest friends. And enjoyed it. And... I have been watching the Vevor products and waiting for my impulse buy genes to kick in. Anyway, thanks for the research and science. I've enjoyed learning.
I have a machine similar to that Vevor MR13. It works great. Bought it more then 10 years ago. It cost me something over 600 bucks. You can buy a lot of drill bits for that money. You don't need a machine like this in a garage. But in a workshop it's a must. It saves time and sanity.
I used to have a DD and have experienced the same problem. Finally I gave it to my friend. Now I use a drill bit sharpening attachment from General and it works fine.
** It looks like you guys sold them out of the MR13A and MR13B **
Need a drill grinder?
Vevor MR-13A (split point): amzn.to/3SLnMRt
Vevor MR-13B (web thinning): amzn.to/3ypeGmL
Drill Doctor DD500X: amzn.to/4ctKEME
Drill Doctor DD750X: amzn.to/3AkQ2Ee
is there a better product out there that is up to your standards?
i watched it lol and others as well the drill dr its ok as far as i am aware
try DBS-22 TORMEK - this is another level
Opening DOES NOT VOID THE WARRANTY IN THE US. It is illegal for manufacturers to state that it does. Look up the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. If a company states that it does then report them to the FTC!!!!
Oh no, Vevor got to you too?
I became a little suspicious when I started seeing Vevor in a large percentage of the channels I subscribe to. I'm still researching but I'm pretty sure they're a CCP controlled company
I'm only joking about them getting to you but I have seen Vevor products on so many channels lately...
I hate drilling with a passion, yet here I am, watching a (second) video of sharpening drill bits.
Time to hit the pool Hank!
I love drilling! Why do you hate it?
@@TheMetalButcherI think the answer is in the screen name. 😂
I knew he was in a drill mania. Called it last video in a comment. 😂
@@TheMetalButcherbecause his drill bits are dull! 😂
I bought my drill doktor about 15 years ago after grinding my own bits for at least 30 years prior. I thought I needed a more consistent grind. After reading the instructions and trying to put them into practice for a good couple of hours, I put the drill doktor back in the box and back on the shelf for a coupla more years to gather dust. It really ate at me that I couldn't figure it out so one afternoon I dragged it back out and set it up and tried again after thoroughly reading the instructions. It is back on the shelf, and anyone is welcome to it for free. And thank you Francis (mechanic I worked with when I was 20) who tawt me how to grind bits...and a million other things. My bits look just like your middle bit. Just remember kids, that the more times you have to regrind a drill bit, the better you get at it.
Thank you again Wes!
I'm glad it's not just me. I did the same thing, it still sits on the shelf unused. I even kept it when moving houses a few years ago.
I had two years of machine trades in high school,two years of trade school , and a three year apprenticeship in tool and die. I’ve worked in the trade for thirty years. I’ve drilled a hole or two. 15 odd years ago the engineers conspired with management and they decided we needed a drill doctor. Best thing ever ,they said. We were all skeptical , to say the least. After a couple weeks of tweaking and fiddling with the thing. We had the same results as you and Wes. It will indeed make a drill sharp however the geometry is so bad it won’t cut. Perhaps if you’re using cheap china drills and only drill pine 2x4s it’s adequate, but for anyone who knows how a sharp drill cuts in steel the drill doctor is a complete and utter failure.
I think you made a good point. Buy a bench grinder and a box of HF $10 bits and just practice sharpening them.
You will be better off and have a skill.
The same experience here. I have friends who swear by them. Something I read a long time ago on the garage Journal was that Drill Doctor produced a batch of defective units about the time you are talking about, my time also. The company was taken to court but never admitted the problem. I also read that if you ignore the settings and use a new bit to establish new ones it does work. I was so underwhelmed with it I never tried but it may work. Again, this just what I read. Maybe someone can try it to see if it does. I probably will over the winter, or finally toss it.
I have an old blue green colour drill doctor and it actually works out of the box very well , remember it is a very old one. At work we have a new grey colour drill doctor and it has all of the problems you encountered and it’s junk nearly $600 dollars her in Australia. Will keep an eye out for a visor unit.
I can literally see your wife walk in to check up on you since it's past midnight, you've got reading glasses on and she takes one look at the 'No Drill Doctor' chalkboard map and shakes her head. Bravo Wes
I'm upset that on the 'No Drill Doctor" map of Michigan is missing the thumb of its mitten. Shout out to all my friends in the 313.
@@Andy_Hinners.
I'm originally from the first small farm town north of Flint Michigan Mt. Morris and I didn't even notice that Oops a daisy.
Coast Guard transferred me down to Coast Guard Airstation Miami from Airstation Traverse City Michigan in 79 and I fell in love with no snow slip and slide salt encrusted winters with everything green and lush 365 so when my enlistment was up and I moved back up to Tragic City Michigan in November 80 2 and a half years later divorced and with custody of my daughter and courts permission I moved back to Miami with 10 years down in the Keys (96-06).
5 of my 6 siblings moved to Florida for the same reasons.
Cars actually make it to their warranty limits not having become rust encrusted.
Unless you drive them on a ocean side beach then Michigan winter roads are less of a danger to the steel on your car.
Do I miss Michigan summers, hunting, camping and the ability to swim in lakes, ponds, rivers and other bodies of water without becoming dinner for Alligators, Crocodiles, Pythons and Boa Constrictors (the last two thanks to idiots who let them loose when they got to big to handle and no one else wanted them except boot, belt, vest and hat makers) dinner.
Sometimes until I go out fishing for Dolphin, Snapper, Grouper and other yummy seafood items.
Going to the sandbar party at Whale Harbor in Islamorada where there's hundreds of hotties in extremely small bikinis Mt Bebita Colombian Wife is trying to catch me oogling.
I've become something of a pro at that.
@@Andy_Hinners 😢 No love for the 248 or 810? 😂
@@1chabod
517 too, but no, not so much for the 248/810
Years ago I bought the more expensive Drill Doctor and went on a sharpening spree and sharpened all the bits in my 55 year old set of drills. Some of them sharpened OK but some had a negative lip clearance angle and barely cut warm butter. Due to your video I checked, the bits that with a negative negative lip pitch angle had thick webs. I spent a lot of time trying to sharpen those dam bits but had the same results you did. Incidentally, the shots of the drills being sharpened were very clear and really told the story. Thanks, now I don't feel so stupid.
Same experience for me. We sold it and got a better one.
@@PaletoB what was the one you got instead?
@@trif55 A second hand Swedish "Demanders BSM 35"
I used to have an older Drill Doctor 700 before it was stolen, and it used to sharpen all my 118-degree HSS bits without any problems I can't remember having difficulties with relief angle, even on the larger bits. After I bought a DD 750X sharpener I found I couldn't sharpen those same bits nearly as well, with negative relief usually happening on all sizes. I now have to routinely insert the chuck a few clicks to the left to get bits that actually cut, especially on smaller bits down to 1/8" that my old 700 had no problem sharpening. So much for "progress"... Even though I swore I would never buy anything else from Vevor after buying a POS torque multiplier that was about as bad as anything can be, maybe I'll have to swallow my pride and get one of their MR13B sharpeners.
Just like with the 2x-priced sharpener, if you learn how to line them up by eye, you can sharpen them just fine in the drill dr. It's a poor craftsman who blames his tool.
I purchased a DD for my father when they were newly available. Maybe 1980?
In 2014 my parents moved from their home of 43 years. Next to the unopened B&D Shopmate(vise on a saw horse) was the unopened Drill Doctor. I took it home and, with my cousin's help, we sharpened hundreds of, mostly Hanson brand, drill bits. We had trouble with a number of them but 10 years later my father is still amazed.
I think you and Project Farm did great videos on bit sharpening. Unlike many in West Michigan, I am not in Tool & Die. Only recently started welding and you tube is a big help.
Thx
Drill Doctor PR team currently trying to find Illinois on a map to 'send the boys around'.
😂
@@andyca15 LOL!!!
We're still waiting for them...
Is there a better sharpener? I suck at hand sharpening.
@@John-qc6of practice more. you can also get a fixture for your bench grinder that takes care of like 90% of the matter for you
Awesome follow up video. I had a drill doctor. It rotted in the corner because I hated the results but didn’t want to throw away money I had already thrown away. Sold it for 10 bucks at my wife’s garage sale just to unload it. The guy that bought it thought he had just hit the jackpot. Good luck bro.
Nice
I think that what I'll do. I can sharpen my bits by hand just as good.
@@tracywagoner4907 I'm going to put mine in a press and take pictures
hey, since most of my drill bits are 118's, I'd have happily paid $10 for it. Just not $120.
I love it, you say no one watched a video on sharpening drills, so you double-down and make a second one!! I wonder how drill DR worked on your 3d printed drills?
i just watch it because its a WWW video regardless of the content
BRILLIANT 😅
Coming in the future: Wes's Drill Sharpeners, 2025 Edition
@@TheOtherBill I'll buy three!
Wes, I have had 2 of the original DD500's with the 750 chuck and left hand chuck options for over 30 years. I have never had a problem with sharpening bits. I have drill bits from literally every MFG ranging from thick wed to thin, tight to loose spiral etc. I also acquired a Grizzly H8203 from the tent sale, pre covid ($40, Had a broken wire, new in box, bought it cheap, works great once I repaired it) Now the style of DD you tested, I am not impressed with but the originals are awesome. With the DD there is a bit of fudge factor when setting up and that is determined after just one or 2 initial twists then inspect before completely attempting to sharpen. Once you learn the tricks, it can actually make for a nice evening with a beverage and sharpening a box of bits in need of tlc. (love my auction/garage sale/swap meet finds)
As a Mechanical Engineer, Hotrodder, and all around "tinkerer" I've been drilling holes in things for more years than I want to think about (65 now and retired but still making metal chips)! I learned how to sharpen drill and lathe tool bits by hand a LONG time ago! Having said that, I bought a Drill Doctor about 30 years ago and still dig it out from time to time to "freshen up" my old, tired drill bits. It took a little getting used to at first but as with everything "Practice makes better, nothing is ever Perfect". It still works fine and has paid for itself and then some versus buying new bits...
@@PhilG999 I'm a retired HD mechanic, I also have drilled a Brazilian holes, I can sharpen a bit in 30 seconds( minute) and not get pissed while fooling with that bit sharpener. But I have no patience, maybe that's why I haven't succeeded. See ya later
I'm the same age as you and learned drill sharing in school in the Navy. A few years later my father who was a die maker showed me his way which was easier. The place I work at about 20 years ago got a drill doctor because nobody in the shop but me could hand sharpen. Drill doctor took a little practice but in worked okay.
@@michaelcook2220 Hand sharpening is a lost art these days! My machine shop instructor in Jr College (my first MET degree) was a crusty old, retired Navy machinist. The first thing he told us on the first day of class was "You won't get an "A+" unless you can do it better than *I* can"!
First tool to make was a lathe bit, hook, radius, backrake, the whole thing. We had a drawing but had to do it "by eye". When I handed it to him after the first try, he looked at it, then looked me in the eye and said: "That'll do"...
I made "As" on every project that whole year! Still have that lathe tool to this day, along with all my projects.
Those came in handy years later when I went to work for a company as an Engineering "Contractor". Shop foreman mentioned he went to the same school and still had HIS projects! I took mine in the next day and we compared them. My work was better!
BTW my Granddad was a Lockheed Machinist...
I'm a retired machinist mate
"30 years ago" I suspect that QC and tolerances have deteriorated over that time.
I've got an older Drill Doctor that I inherited when a former employer eliminated their little machine shop. I think "Good Enough" is the best way to describe it. It's worth more than I paid for it (nothing) and it keeps my drills usable.
Mine was crap.I went back to sharping by hand
Sharpening
It's better than nothing. Or if you have the hand eye-coordination of a blind apprentice who's been drinking too much coffee.
Even on a bad day I can still hand-sharpen better than a Drill Doctor. But if someone took away my bench grinder, and I had a box of dull bits and a job that needed doing, it'd be better than plowing dull bits into a workpiece.
I have got very good use out of mine. The demonstration of the tool shows he didn't keep the holder in contact with the edge the full 360 degrees. It is no wonder he had less than desirable results. Just like anyone else who doesn't follow the directions correctly.
@@joelfenner The main difference for me is that I have to actually think and pay attention when sharpening by hand. It takes a lot of concentration, but the Drill Doctor is just something you can do on autopilot with very little concentration needed. So sometimes that in itself is a distinct advantage.
watched both videos, great content as usual. That intro was fantastic, great work!
Wife asked what i was watching. She convinced I've lost my mind.
🤣
😂
Just tell her the body cannot live without the mind...that should buy you some time...lol
The intro had me where I had to stay.
I count on his videos to keep me normal.
She is correct.
I’m the guy that has the drill bit drawer stuffed with inherited or loose found bits from farm auctions. Anything that resembles a quarter inch or smaller diameter I religiously sharpen with my 40 year old cheap (the blue one) Drill Doctor, larger diameter I reluctantly sharpen on a bench grinder when it feels like it is working too hard. I believe you are spot on and I love the video.
My experience.
I bought a drill doctor 500 twenty or more years ago. Couldn't get a drill bit sharp to save my life. I wrote it off as junk and it ended up in the far recesses of my tool pile.
Fast forward a few years, I saw the 750 and thought it must be better, so I bought that. Same results, same fate.
I have a drawer full of drill bits and last year I was working on a project that I had half-a-dozen larger bits the same size, all dull.
I finally got so frustrated, I broke down and read the instruction manual cover to cover. What an eye opener! It explained the differences in bits and how to correctly set the different markings on the sharpener to the different bits. What a difference in my results. The bits came out consistently sharp. It actually became a joy to drill. I now touch up all my bits before I use them.
BTW, I have also done some machine shop work, and here in the US, even in small shops we had drill sharpening machines, with several different mandrels for the bits. Heavy old machines that cost a lot of money.
For my money, in my shop, hands down, Drill Doctor is #1.
Thank you for telling my story!
From one of the few ;) who watched the other video. Thank you again! Just ordered the Vevor so that I can cheat on bit sharpening when I need to.
When I get back to Norway I will look for the Vevor drill sharpener for sure.
I put pressure on him to make the video and I watched.
Also this is one of his most watched videos in over a year and it’s only the first day. The squeaky wheel gets the oil
Time is money
At least you are using Hagoromo chalk, the mark of a true professional!
I personally love watching your videos and I appreciate your wife’s support as well in the whole endeavor.
I caught that as well. I just saw a short little documentary on the stuff I need to order me some.😁😁👍👍
Oh dear Lord...... I see a chalk video in the near future. 🫣
Wes spends a month making an unpopular video on drill bit sharpening and doubles down on a drill sharpening video about a specialized piece of Amazon garbage....bravo sir! Love it. The internet needs heroes like you.
DD was around way before Amazon.
Amazon garbage? lmfao
@@NoferTrunionsI'll give the @theroosterblocker the benefit of the doubt and assume he's trying to turn "Amazon garbage" into an anthimeria figure of speech, but he's probably just too young to remember anything before Amazon.
It's like most kids these days that can't conceptualize a world that existed without cell phones, the internet and the constant expectation of instant gratification.
@@1chabod "Please wait six to eight weeks for delivery". How do you think that would go over now?
@@patdelang9117 wth are you on about now? Lol
I am a retired toolmaker and use my sharpened drills in an electric drill, a drill press and a CNC machine. If you start with quality bits the Drill Doctor will do a fine job of sharpening them consistently. All my drills are split point, cobalt HHS with both 135 and 118 degree tips. The sharpened drills cut easily and to size. Before my Drill Doctor I sharpened drills by hand, but never as well or quickly as the Drill Doctor.
I bought a Derrex drill sharpener many years ago and absolutely love it. Left or right hand, web thinning, split point, 25 to 95 degree, HSS, Carbide. I’ve made music wire and doll pins into drills for steel. It advertised as easy to use, so I sharpened three full drill sets perfectly before I read the instructions. Love it!
I never watched the first video, I think it was 1977 I was taught how to sharpen drill bits, the old boy I was working under got sick of me asking him to sharpen a bit so he showed me how. Truly a great skill to have.
Fast forward a whole bunch of years to about 2002. I was field service and we had a bunch of machines that were having breaking bolts for the swing bearing and track rollers. Lots of drilling involved. I got sick of crawling out from under an excavator and sharpening bits, so I bought a drill doctor and would have it under the machine with me, once the drill quit drilling easy I would just do a quick touch up. It worked really good.
I wore that one out, it was one of the older ones that could do twist drills, left hand drills and masonry drills. I tried to buy the parts to repair but Drill Doctor no longer made that style but they gave me a deal on a brand new one.
It is no where as good as the old one was, in fact I don't even use it anymore, well I am retired, but before I retired I hardly used it.
And I did work in a machine shop at one time. They had this big fancy bit sharpener, I forget what make. It was pretty much useless for anything under 1" but big bits, oh yes. And yes all the machinist were perfectly capable of sharpening a bit but this thing sped things up and with a perfect every time, they used it quite a bit
There aren't many people who I would watch make a video about sharpening drill bits, and only one I'd watch do that twice. Really enjoy your dry sense of humor, looking forward to the next one.
unless you bought a drill defecator like I did.
Hi, Wes. I love your content and never miss an episode. I have a Drill Doctor, two in fact. I couldn't say why but I never threw out a dull bit and had a whole container of them. Then the DD came along and fixed my problem with dull bits. The first time I used it, it paid for itself multiple times over. I love it! But I got mine at least 15 yrs ago, and only do homeowner stuff. Good luck on all your work.
i've used the Drill Doctor for years. i got mine back in the late 80s? maybe it was the 90s. when i got it, i could still sharpen bits free hand like my Dad taught me, it was just time consuming for me.
i worked in automotive repair and i used drill bits regularly. mostly on broken bolts that someone else had done, but i did break my own share too.
i had collected a lot of broken and dull bits over the years tossed out by other people. some i had sharpened when i needed them, but most sat in a drawer or a box waiting for when i had the time and felt like sitting at a grinder.
when i got it i watched the Drill Doctor VHS tape a couple of times, then carried it to work, mounted it on my bench, and did a few bits. not all, but most worked ok, the broke bits took way too long to fix with the Drill Doctor.
i watched the vid a couple more times, did some more bits and started getting better results.
although it did have problems with the wider webbed bits, my Drill Doctor has done thousands of bits with good results and most of the time a lot faster than i could have done them by hand.
years later a friend i worked with way back when i first got it was working at another shop and remembered how well mine worked. they got one and it didn't work at all. i went up and tried it and only on the larger bits did it do anything close to a decent job,.. for drilling wood.
that one didn't last very long, it got knocked off the bench a few times and ran over once and it was done. they got a second one and mounted it. he told me it also wasn't working very good. i went up and tried using it, nothing i did let me get a decent bit from it. a few days later i found mine and took it to the shop, mounted it and proceed to get good results right away on the same bits.
i don't think the quality is the same, and from my recent experience with newer versions, i agree, for someone drilling wood or maybe thin mild steel and using narrow webbed bits the DD is ok.
I've found my older DD (that came with VHS instructions) I picked up at a yard sale to really work well for my limited purposes.
Thank you for the information. I got one for Christmas one year, and could never get it to work correctly. Brother in law taught me how to sharpen drill bits using a bench grinder, and I put the DD back in the box, and gave it to a co-worker that I hate.
@@d.e.b.b5788 Lol! Well played!
just did about 20 bits yesterday with my DD, all look good.
i will say, getting one of the MR13s does sound good, but kind of hard to justify the price while my DD is still ok for me. on the wide webbed bits i can still roll them around the grinder.
My Drill Doctor was a gift from my in-laws in 2003/4, it's the green 1-trick pony that only does 'normal/plain drill bits'. I still use it, I love it, I'm sad the plastic is starting to fail from age. What I've since learned over the years is that mine is an anomaly. After a heated discussion on the topic at work, myself and several others had a 'bring your Drill Doctor to work day'. Of the several identical looking drill doctors, mine was the oldest by a margin of 10 years and subsequently the only one the worked correctly. That gray one you are testing, I have never seen one that delivered a properly sharpened drill bit. In fact, I'm shocked they can still sell them. Our shop had the same negative rake issue you showed but weren't in position to rip it apart (tax payer money) so we just got a refund. Excellent video Wes.
I would have to agree. I have the original 750 model. I will use a split point on sizes 1/4 and smaller but I won't waste my time on larger split points. One of my high school buddies worked in Ashland for the Drill Doctor company when they first got started and everything was in house. He was with them until the newer model came out...the crappy grey one that never seemed to work right for larger bits. It was still assembled in Oregon but the parts were crap and very difficult to get it to work properly. Mine still works excellent to this day. I keep it in the hard case and get it down off the shelf about once a year and clean up all the bits that I broke or damaged. Sharper than new I seem to remember was the logo and he convinced me to buy one. I also remember buying a replacement diamond drum for it but I don't ever remember changing it.
An 8" bench grinder is the same price (or even less) and is overall WAY more useful. Glad I was taught properly by my elders and never wasted any money on a Dr Drill Wrecker
I can make a drill cut sharpening it by hand on a bench grinder, but I cannot assure the point is centered
Idiot newbie here, so please forgive the ignorant question. You specify 8" grinder -- is it way better than the 6"? I'm looking to buy, but I trust Wes' watchers WAY more than the rest of the unqualified hacks throwing their opinions around on the internet. LOL
But what is cheaper: a bench grinder or a drill Dr.... you find in thrift stores?
@@obsidianjane4413 This is simple to answer, a Bench grinder. I paid $100 USD for my bench grinder. I was taught years ago that the drill doctor didn't sharpen drill bits correctly. I have saved more money with my bench grinder than a drill doctor would have saved me so in the long run a bench grinder is cheaper.
@@obsidianjane4413a drill doctor did one thing. Badly. A bench grinder can do many things. At the skill of the user. Did you watch the part of the video where he said that?
The intro 😂
Time traveler
One of the best.
@@Gmed11 Patreon early access
Epic
Probably the best intro I've seen lol gave off some Jeff Burick/James Corbett vibes!
Check them out if you all want to get informed on what the overlords have planned for us.
I am a machinist and have used a drill doctor at a past manufacturing shop. It was kept in a box in the tool crib and only came out when a very small drill such as the smallest number drills needed a touchup. Otherwise everything was sharpened on bench grinders.
Wes, I just watched the drill sharpening video, and it was extremely helpful. After trying to learn in the shop, your 3-d printed visual aids really helped, and your explanations did, too. Don't pay so much attention to percentages - there are a lot of us out there who really appreciate the time you take, and I will never buy a drill doctor. Thanks so much, Victoria
I bought a Drill Doctor. It was $5 at a yard sale in the box so I picked it up to see what I was missing. Now it sits on the shelf here collecting dust. I never got it to work right. It did that negative rake grind like Wes shows.
I've owned a Drill Doctor for about 20 years. I now have a 500X and a PKX drill doctor. I watched your video very closely and I don't know if your machine came with a DVD or any instructions but mine came with a DVD and a small book which is very essential to successful sharpening. On the face of the chuck that holds the drill for sharpening is a line that should be used to ensure the bit is lined up correctly. The cutting edges of the bit should be lined up with the line in the face of the chuck. As the DVD brings out not all drills are made the same. Some have much more twist than others. The thickness of the web also affects how the drill doctor holds the bit. Using the line on the face of the chuck will help a lot. Also, There are many holes in the jig which holds the chuck when you are setting the depth grinding for sharpening the drill. One in the center is clearly labeled for 118 degrees, in my DVD it states that to sharpen 135 degree drills the chuck should be aligned one or two holes to the right side (-) to achieve the proper relief angle (you have to experiment a little on this, but turning the chuck does change the relief angle). This has worked wonderfully for me and I have been able to successfully sharpen all of my drill bits. The Drill Doctor is a wonderful tool, but like so many other tools it must be used properly. Project Farm has a good video on the Drill Doctor, in which he shows the proper alignment for 135 degree drill bit sharpening. The Drill Doctor can handle from 3/32" all the way up to 3/4" if you have the proper chuck. Most can only sharpen up to 1/2" but the 3/4" chuck only cost around $25.00 last time I checked. With the correct chuck all of the Drill Doctors can handle up to 3/4" bits. Both of my Drill Doctors put a great edge on all my bits. Enjoyed your video, try the drill doctor again with correct settings.
this intro with the map is hilarious, well-written and delivered
Love the drill bit sharpening series. The deeper into the weeds we get the more fun I'm having. Would be awesome to see a video about grain structure and hardness of grinding wheels next.
The drill sharpening series may get cut short if Wes fell in love with that lovely dozer. That looks like a 10 to 20 part series. I have loved the drill sharpening series so far too.
For sure education and entertainment simultaneously. What’s not to love
Tjhat would be a 3 part series at least. Can't remember how many college hours it took but I have a thick binder of Norton products material.
Need more of these drill bit videos !
They're the only ones I watch here.
I agree with your assertion that all machinists sharpen by hand. In my shop it was sacrilege to use a mechanical device.
Thats because all larval engineers/machinists are tauhgt how to do it properly.
A lot of machinists use tool sharpeners when it really counts. Most machinists should have one in the shop if they do any lathe work. But to set up the tool sharpener just to sharpen a drill for making a hole in some sheet metal doesn’t make sense. Hand sharpening is way faster.
We had a drill sharpener in the production shop I worked in. It wasn't a Drill Doctor though. Mostly we just ran twist bits until they were shot then scrapped them. We'd get a lot of holes out of a single bit so by the time we tossed it that bit didn't owe us a thing. A lot of them I'd blow the bit apart. Split it clean up the web. There'd be nothing to sharpen.
Your explanation at 5:50 is EXACTLY what I've been trying to understand about my DD. I want SO MUCH to love this tool, but it either misaligns the cutting features or leaves a cutting edge that is LOWER than the material that trails it. Kind of an ANTIsharpener, in that case. It's frustrating. I keep hoping DD will put out some fix or some solution that makes a bad tool a good one.
I just got one on eBay, these things are the bomb! Currently bringing several generations of drills back from the dead. Thanks Wes!
One of "these"
.....which one of these did you get.
@@randywl8925 The B mod. I have a bunch of 3 generation of hand me down drills that are finally going to get the love they deserve. The b model seemed more appropriate for the thick web style.
I bought one DD's in the early 2000's, best $159.99 door stop i ever bought!!!
"It's not good but for a lot of people it's probably good enough" -very true for the majority of these sorts of products.
For the price of that thing I can buy an awful lot of cheapo drill bits for the couple of times I need to drill a hole.
I don't get it. It makes negative angles on drill bits. How do they even use them?
Just look at these products as a "crutch". Poorly-made ones, at that.
@@RubenKelevra Probably people who use 135 degree bits don't ever buy those and people who use 118 degree bits are happy with the results.
@@RubenKelevra It's a secret feature - run your drill in reverse and it fills the holes in.
That hand sharpening drill bit video is super useful and it's one that people can refer to for as long as it's up - the view count on it will rise for years.
I’m with willsmith: have had it for YEARS, and love it! I’m 82, and my first serious jobs were in pretty high tech (for the 1950’s) shops and huge volume (millions per year) production businesses, and every one of them had a very expensive sharpener for drill bits. At first had troubles with my Drill Doctor, but after really paying attention to set up, have been able to sharpen every one of several hundred bits perfectly-and I buy the best they have at the local hardware store. Yours, unfortunately, was a “Monday” or “Friday” assembly job. That said, those thick bits you got just do not do it.
Thank you. I have been using the Drill Doctor for several years and have been, overall, happy with it. Before sharpening, the bit has to be positioned in the drill chuck and inserted in a manner where two arms with pointed ends engage the bit flutes. Once that is done, the bit must be then snugged down in the chuck which is then moved to the hole for sharpening. It is difficult to position small diameter bits such that the arms engage the flutes on the bit, and that is apparently necessary to correctly position the bit in the chuck for proper sharpening. By the way, the link you placed for Vevor shows it is not currently available.
Have had a Drill doctor on my TH-cam channel off and on for 10 years. It's a great trick to trigger comments cause of the love hate they have. 90% of the time I am a hand grinder guy. But a small folger coffee can sits next to my drill doctor. I break or burn down a bit I cut the tip off flat and throw it in the can. Every few month when killing time I throw them in the Doctor for a quick regrind then hand finish them to live in the trash drill can I grad for drilling out rusty stuff. Somehow along the way the drill doctor got ladled a finishing tool when it's really a regrind prep tool.
Awesome and Thank you for making me feel better about myself. I purchased a drill doctor several year ago and dulled every bit that i ownec that night 🌙.
Can't speak to Drill Doctors of late but the Drill Doctor I bough, the Handyman 250, over 25 years ago is stellar and I've been using the drill bits it has sharpened ever since.
Interesting, have they made changes in the years since? Wes needs to do a 3rd. video - look into if older Drill Doctors actually do a decent job.
Maybe there's some retired professional that would send Wes a vintage drill Dr., and we could get the third video?
I’ve had my old Drill Doctor so long, it came with a VHS tape.
It has always done a fantastic job for me.
My dad bought a drill Doctor 25 years ago and it was the greatest thing since sliced cheese. My mentally deficient godson was able to use it and all the bits came out better than new
yea the old ones are supper good, the new ones need adjusting and knowing how to set the angle correctly i have both and the old one works better
this exactly aligns with my experience with the Drill Doctor. a coworker owned one and loved it. All of his bits came from Harbor Freight, and he had good results. So he offered to sharpen a few of my old aircraft grade bits with thick webbing, and they ended up just like yours did.
I see the dropping bevel where the cutting edge isn't the "highest" point but based on how it works to align the drill-bit (I've got a 750 I got for free) I don't see how it's misaligning so badly? can you manually rotate it back an appropriate amount of degrees before tightening it to resolve the issue?
That is what I do. Fiddly though.
I'm not sure why I missed this video when it was released.
I was trained to sharpen drill bits by hand, and have done for years.
When my eyes were getting wonky I bought the old-style Drill Doctor which is equivalent to what they might now call the 'Classic 750' to do the 1/8" bits that I use a ton of. Worked great for that.
I started to get a bit lazy and use it for larger bits as well - bits that would have been easy enough to do by hand. I just sit down at my desk and sharpen up anything that is getting dull in my big sets.
It does a fantastic job.
I now have the big-brother to the one in your video (I have the 750X), and it also does a fantastic job.
I do *not* split the point. I re-sharpen everything to 118 degrees regardless of the original point geometry.
Depending on the speed of the helix you need to adapt the rotation of the chuck in the sharpener. You can insert it in dozens of different position, and a different brand of bit will require a different position, but once you find the correct position for that set, you just write it on the index with a sharpie and you are good to go forever.
Why do I not split the point? I pilot drill. Every time. I drill lots and lots of holes by hand, and pilot drilling with a 1/8" bit is far more accurate than drilling with a 1/2" bit right out of the gate. Pilot for position, then the next bit will follow that hole and you will end up with a properly located hole.
I still sharpen by hand when I need something odd-ball, like a 90 degree nose, or a flat nose to make a counter-bore, or whatever, but I really appreciate being able to sit down and sharpen my bits reliably at my desk. I love it.
Edit: Just in case it wasn't clear, changing the rotation of the chuck when you are setting it up for grinding (as I alluded to above) adjusts the relief angle. You can get any angle you want (within reason) by adjusting that rotation. This would solve the problem that Wes had with the 135 degree bit.
I have used many different drill sharpeners over the years, including the General sweep-type and whatnot, but the convenience and good results of the Drill Doctor is the best solution for me.
Whether it is the last does not matter. Humorous actual education is priceless. Thank you sir!
I like how you said a while back “no one seems to care if I put a ton of extra time into editing videos” and you’ve added all sorts of theatrics 😂 love the videos man keep it up. You are correct as a machinist, drill doctor is rubbish
He also said "No one watched my first drill sharpening video" yet here he is with a second one... 🙂
My dad bought a drill doctor years ago. We used it a few times maybe. It’s been sitting gathering dust. I much rather hand sharpen drills by eye than use that thing. You’ve got my attention with the vevor sharpener.
I've used the Drill Dr, it worked great. I also watched your other video about hand sharpening. With everything I can do in the shop and the wide array of skills that I have, hand-sharpening a twist drill just isn't one of them. But thanks for BOTH of these videos showing both sides of the story.
I've had my Drill Doctor for about 30 years. If you read and follow the instructions, it works fine. I haven't had any issues, but I have never sharpened any drill bit over 1/2in.
I also have a bit sharpener attached to my grinder, but rarely use it.
Depending on the year it was made, the instructions can be a bit of a headache to decipher. I personally found it easier to learn how to use the thing once I tossed them out. Lol.
But, I agree. I've been using mine for a number of years now (picked it up used for a few bucks). I'm not even sure it can fit a bit larger than 1/2", but then again it's designed more for your average home garage.
It's not going to meet the standards that are required in any reputable machinist's shop, but that's not the intended target (nor should anyone think so).
If I have to touch up a larger bit, then I'll do so by hand. But, for the more common sized ones (that I've some how amassed a dragons hoard worth of), I'll let them build up and then quickly sharpen the while like in a few minutes. Something that hand sharpening would require far longer as my focus begins to wain.
I have now learned more about drill sharpening than I ever thought possible. I learned how to sharpen drill bits on my own one day. We were drilling 3/4 inch holes in plates to fab up a metal building; and we had a LOT of holes to drill.. and the bit was smoking the lube and wouldn't hardly drill and the press was getting worked hard.. and I knew I couldn't make it any worse, so I just took it to a grinder and experimented.. I tried to sharpen it about 3 different times, in different ways.. and then suddenly it was cutting like butter. At that time, I didn't even know that sharpening drills was even possible at all-- I had never seen anything about it or heard about it... I feel like an expert now. :)
Never a "Dull" moment Wes, get the pun...dull. I enjoyed the first drill video, and thought I left a positive comment. I am happy that vevor is a good machine/tool. My step son does use a drill, I set in a chair whining about life. Old and useless, more forgotten than anything. I also found a channel you probably have watched. Cutting edge Australia.... I do think you and this fellows humor might just align if you haven't seen his videos. I like the size equipment he tackles plus lots of machine work... I truly miss using a lathe and a horizontal mill. I know that there are a ton of other machinist tools but for a guy who is just getting started.. good place to begin at. Setting up a crankshaft or camshaft machine is not for faint of heart.... Loved the art work as well
Thanks for the product review! There are so many drill sharpener products on the market. It's good to know that at least one of the affordable ones isn't total junk.
Thank you, I bought a drill doctor years ago. had mixed results and could never get consistent split point angles. I scrapped it. Went on 10 years without one. After years of struggling and seeing other people range about the drill doctor. Bought best model in the market for a second time. Same crap again. I use Snap-on, Irwin, and matco bits. I think it's just for cheap bits. Glad I'm not the only one that had those results.
Love my drill doctor. I used to drill constantly on 16 gauge to 3/8 stainless ( 308 mostly) in the field. Careful to follow the instructions. Also I made a little modification to sharpen my 2% lanthanum tig tungstens. Very smooth and good arc starts. Read the instructions and practice. My drill bits come out nicely and cut well using drilling paste.
I know how to read.
@@WatchWesWork Those instructions, though...they're a bit thick.
My $5 yard sale DD does a more than adequate job of sharpening my Chinesium bits. Seeing as more of them get broken than dulled, it does decent at turning them into a shorter bit 😃
@@WatchWesWork Are you sure about that?
Let's see the mod for the tungsten. I'd like to do that to mine
@@weldingfabrication77I bought two of the early versions, the have the diamond coated spindle under a clear cover. I simply drilled an 1/8 hole at an angle to insert the tungsten. As my tungstens are short ( always use a button back ) I use a small tip drill to hold the tungsten. Leaves a smooth finish. In my own shop ( 80% of my work is field ) I often buff the tungsten on a pedestal buffer for a tungsten that has great low amp starting and stability. Surface finish makes a huge difference at low amps on DC. Call me lazy but when fabbing parts that co$t thousands of dollars you need everything in your favor.
I was fortunate enough to have a very experienced machinist show me how to properly sharpen bits by hand using a bench grinder.
The introduction for this video was awarded winning comedy! Your videos are always informative but the subtle jokes keep me coming back.
Did you wear a disguise when you bought that drill doctor?
I used my wife's credit card.
@@WatchWesWorkClose enough! 😁👍
Glad to hear that it not just me. I have owned a drill doctor for over 20 years and have NEVER managed to sharpen 1 drill successfully. It always leaves negative rake (I think it might sharpen left hand drill bits) which keeps the nicely sharpened cutting edge from cutting.
Wow, I'm 71, a hobby car guy, fabricator, welder, etc. and I've never seen a thick web drill bit even though I have high quality bits like Morse and Cleveland. Even looking at the properly sharpened one, it's not clear how the chisel point works. I had an early DD and supposedly the plastic frame crept - The problem was the drill was not index properly ending in a negative cut angle. I have a new one like yours and for thin web it works OK. FYI I learned how to sharpen bits by hand and am good at it. But it was fun to use the DD when it did a good job.
Well holy shit. I’m watching and wondering “yeah, but I wonder if the vevor corrects this issue” and then you pull off the towel. Hell yes- exactly what I wanted to see! Big thanks!
Don't hesitate to make more drill bit videos. I know so much more about drill bits now. I'm just a layman I never knew the difference between a cheap box of bits and advanced bits made to drill through big sheets of metal. I wouldn't have known what to ask!
Now that I've watched two drill sharpening videos I'm awaiting the finale. We all know great sagas are always trilogies. Where would we have been without The Good the bad and the ugly, Return of the Jedi, The Dark Knight Rises, or LOTR Return of the King?
Brill !!
Doors of Stone?
I had a drill doctor and after using it the bit was duller than what it was before, I now have a vevor and that works great, the dull bits that I have that are dull after the vevor drills through steel like nothing, and it's easy to use, it's one of the best tools I have ever bought
What you are sharpening are Twist Drills.
Bits are the cutting tools that are held in 17:09 a Brace. Bits and Braces cut into wood, using the screw point, to feed the Bit into wood.
Bits do not go into drill chucks, held by electric drill motors. Electric or hand drills can’t hold the square tang at the end of a Bit.
I gave my drill doctor away before even opening it. My dad tried valiantly to teach me to sharpen drills. He tried. I bought a whole box of drills and learned more profanity. Worked so far. The Vevor looks pretty cool. But where would my new vocabulary get used? 😊 Thanks for the video.
The intro is superb! 😂
I liked the drill bit video. I learnt a lot and confirmed my suspicions that I’m crap at it. Keep doing what you’re doing.
Being able to sharpen drill bits (118 degrees) is a huge advantage, having that little skill in a truck & bus shop and has paid off dozens of times over the years. Now that I understand the correct angles needed for the 135-degree bits, I will try them, too. I just wish I still had my young eyes, among other things ! I might just buy a Vevor machine to make it easier. Thanks for the videos! They are very helpful.
I've sharpened drills since the sixties. I operated a gang drilling machine with five drill motors and coolant. Loaded large witch hat shaped forged brake rotors for driveshafts. Large lathe heads fastened to the table, held them. Junk in metal like hitting center drills and dull bits ended up with busted drill bits. The big grinder was way over on the other side of the plant. Automatic quill stop, but I couldn't leave it running unattended. So, about every hour, I would run over and sharpen them. They were a little over an inch. And a few were busted. 135° split point, as close as I could get. Later on, a company I worked at had one. Of course my own drill bits are not made in China. I was really let down. Had to turn them in the holder to even get close. So much for one size fits all. I am glad I didn't waste my own money, thinking about saving time. A grinding wheel and dresser is way cheaper than DD. I wish I could find a sharpener that can sharpen the deep hole parabolic drill bits.
I agree that the Drill Doctor sucks with larger bits. I completely ruined a 1/2" bit recently with it. On the other hand, I've used it with bits smaller than about 3/8" with moderate success. The bottom line is I have one and I paid good money for it so I'll get what use I can out of it. Thanks for the comparison/review.
As you should!
1/2" isn't large.. and even if it did wreck it should be able to fix it using a standard grinder
I have never had any success sharpening drill bits with my Drill Doctor. The various surfaces never line up, as you pointed out at 6:00.
The finished Drill Dr - sharpened drills work ok as long as I start the hole with a starter drill. My uncle left me a bunch of them in his machinist’s box from when he was a tooling inspector in a defense plant in WWII. Someday my son will have to buy new ones, but for me, it’s a lifetime supply
Pretty good video. Wes. I enjoy your company, even if the subject matter is so humble. Loved the old Cat at the end...ha ha!
Very nice demo. I have always sharpened by bits by hand with an 85% first pass success rate. Anything that I get wrong I can fix by just doing it again. The real test is to drill through a piece of metal and see how big the chips are.
You are right about getting a bench grinder. It is a much better spend. The VEVOR looks like a good option for some people, but I can can get by just fine by hand. Thanks for the informative specialty video. Exactly what we need.
Watched the video and loved it. I too have been plagued by the not to reliable drill dr. Never could get it to work well enough.
I also don’t go around buying everything that gets recommended to me from a TH-cam content creator.
This however (thanks to your thorough review) I couldn’t pass up. Picked up the MR-13A and just got done sharpening 5 or 6 old bits I had lying around and they look fresh from the factory. Between your video and Mr. Pete’s it was pretty easy to get it dialed in. Seriously impressed! THANK YOU WES!!
Dude I dunno about your channel history, but I subscribed to some dude repairing farm equipment and now you're coming out as a whole ass engineer. Love it! :)
He has a mechanical engineering degree IIRC.
The real question- can we convince Wes to design and build his own drill sharpening machine for us folk who refuse to just learn to do it on a bench grinder!
Why, if the Vevor works as good as he says it does?
Theres gotta be a way to 3D print an attachment for a bench grinder so it becomes as easy to use as the vevor.
@@johnaclark1 Because I'd rather buy one with the WWW logo on it.
@@G.Davis67 They make jigs for bench grinders. I have one made by General. It works better than the drill doctor, but that's not saying much. I guess if you want to make sure the drill bit is centered it's pretty good, but I prefer to just do it by hand.
If a Vevor product outclasses the competition: what an embaressement! They are not terrible, but certainly the harbor freight class for professionals. (looking at my Vevor optical fibre fusion splicer. It works reliable but certainly nothing show off.)
They make that? Lol Vevor is weird AF.
I have drill doctor that is 20-25 years old and looks different, it actually does a pretty good job. I will have to take a look at how the points line up but I know that I don't have a negative flute able when done. That still probably wont keep me from buying the orange one in the video. Thanks for the info.
I hand ground drill bits back in high school and machine shop so I know how to but I recently just bought a drill doctor and basically everything you said in this video I 100% agree with the drill doctor is made for someone like myself that is not in a machine shop that is not into heavy fabrication anything like that I buy harbor freight bits I get bits in garage sales and stuff like that that's not you know high quality high dollar bits so the drill doctor works perfect for me for someone that is in a machine shop and stuff I highly suggest hand grinding or the of the machine you got there they both serve a very good place they both have a price point and a consumer base very good video bud
I took my Drill Doctor apart, and use the diamond drum and motor assembly to sharpen my tungsten. I made a little jig that the motor is bolted to with angled holes to get different tip geometries.
I'm looking forward to if/when Drill Doctor responds to your video.
When pigs fly😮
@@markmiller2263PIGS CAN FLY?!
Companies know how to fix bad opinions about their products..its called legal team.
Nice video - I watched the other one beginning to end. INTERESTINGLY...the technique I was taught is almost the reverse of yours...IE: grind the releif first with a twisting motion, working up to the cutting edge. I need to try your method soon, I think I'm going to like it better than the way I was taught!
The great thing about Wes is he can get me to watch not 1, but 2, count 'em TWO, videos about sharpening 'drills' (learned that also), and me actually coming away from it like, that was really interesting, now I know, in case I ever need to, and I don't wanna go back to not knowing! GREAT CHANNEL!!
There it's an adjustment for the relief. It has to do with the angle at which you insert the collet that holds the bit. Read the manual, the machine works fine. I have one and I love it.
You had me at "void the warranty".😁
I'm 1:15 into this video, and it's already my favorite WWW video of all time😂😂
I love the whiteboard on a clean, painted wall. It's almost... professional?
Professional? Let's not get carried away!
I just found your channel tonight so am subscribing and will watch all previous sharpening videos you have already produced. I realize I don’t even know what I don’t know about sharpening drill bits or any metal items with edges. I’m 59 and my dad already passed so I don’t even know who to ask. I’ll appreciate any good advice anyone can offer. Heck, I’ll appreciate any half fast advice anyone can offer!
Great nit noid in depth analysis. I’m not a professional and am not obsessed with the technical aspects of drill sharpening. I’ve used a drill Dr. for years and the drills I sharpen work just fine.
The drill doctor only works on a flat Earth.
LOL!
I agree with you guys. I returned mine.
I love mine. Don’t have the dexterity to hand sharpen like in Wes’s tutorial.
@@myk55501Unicorn drill doctor doesn't count
You mean like one of those woven metal ground-straps?😁
My dad had an old Drill Doctor (it came with a VHS how-to video). He was convinced it was junk and just told me dull bits were just a fact of life. I finally got it out, read the instructions, and for our cheapo bits, it worked. Turns out he didn't understand how to get the drill in the right orientation for sharpening and was just grinding off what little point his dull bits had left. I just sharpen them for him now.
0:28 I’m not struck on that World Map Wes!😂
It’s actually just a map of all North America…
🙃😉
@@ChuckThree I was being Ironic!
Before I got serious about wood and metal working, I would occasionally hand sharpen drills,not expecting them do be perfect. Then I started woodturning, which requires as much skill sharpening the tools as cutting with them. There are some great jigs for aligning the tools, I started learning with some of them. Then my big boy pride and ambition convinced me that I could do it all free hand, I got good at this, but the jigs still worked better and faster. All this taught me about cutting edge angles, and relief angles. Many types of gouges, skews, and scrapers, all using different angles. Most important to understand is that bowl gouges, spindle gouges, roughing gouges, etc. usually are used rubbing the bevel on the wood, gently rotating until the cutting edge starts slicing the wood. So, with that understanding, I hand sharpen my drills, slight angle near the edge, steeper behind it, and can usually get good results. They cut like crazy, and usually very clean. If I get the center or point of the drill a bit off, not so clean, but perfect holes usually aren’t needed. That’s what forstner bits are for. Can’t drill metal with forstner bits, but if I need very accurate clean holes, I just experiment, keep resharpening until I get it right. With practice, and visualizing how the edges should look, anyone can get good at this.
I totally get your perspective, and you're right - the DD sucks on 135 degree bits, esp split points. BUT I'm a DIYer (ok a pretty serious DIYer), and I only have the inexpensive 118 degree bits. I bought the DD maybe 15- or so years ago, when there were not a whole lot of options for consumers. It's not great, but it does better than I do it by hand - which I used to do with a file and bench vice (before I owned a bench grinder). The DD is easy, it's quick and it does a good enough job for me that I can drill holes fairly easily. And I acknowledge that toward the end of the video, you said as much. Basically, I'm agreeing with you. If I was in the market for a sharpener today, I might still choose the DD because I just don't drill often enough to justify the extra expense. But your video has me thinking about that Vevor! Just my $0.02 ...
I got very good service from a drill doctor. Hundreds of drill bit sharpened multiple times. If I wasn't retired I would own today.
I like how the drill doctor conveniently captures all the filings on the magnet of its motor.
Wonder how much sharpening you can do before the motor shorts out or uses the bits of metal as a nice abrasive.
You are wrong sir! The magnets on the motor catch the big pieces so only the pieces that fit in lung pores are allowed to pass
@0:05: I watched it. Along with over 100k of my closest friends. And enjoyed it. And... I have been watching the Vevor products and waiting for my impulse buy genes to kick in. Anyway, thanks for the research and science. I've enjoyed learning.
I have a machine similar to that Vevor MR13. It works great. Bought it more then 10 years ago. It cost me something over 600 bucks. You can buy a lot of drill bits for that money. You don't need a machine like this in a garage. But in a workshop it's a must. It saves time and sanity.
I used to have a DD and have experienced the same problem. Finally I gave it to my friend. Now I use a drill bit sharpening attachment from General and it works fine.