Nicely made pin, especially the hand/finger grip. Quite often in a workshop while on a job, simple little items like these will make one search and get frustrated. Getting things complete and organized alliviates that.
Disclaimer: I am not a real machinist, but as a scientist learned to do some machining. I was wondering whether you think that slowing down the speed of turning would have improved the chatter situation. That was the first thing I thought of. I love your videos and am delighted at the work you do, rescuing and restoring wonderful older machines. Thank you very much.
Suggestions, Add a heavier chamfer to both pins. Use ring grooves to limit travel of the pin.. You should not have to pull one pin but simply use one pin to push the other out. Neat Arbor press BTW.
Keith, When your bitt was chattering I was wondering why you did not spin your compound around. Would have eliminated the chatter, less file work. There are always many different approaches to doing even the simplest jobs. But in the end it came out very nice. I always enjoy your videos. Gary
Come on, Keith, the long pin needs the same TLC :) how about a collar or sumpin on the short pin so it stops before it crosses the gear area and into the hole for the long pin?
A 1cm-ish Nd magnet attached to the end seems like it would take the process 'swap two pins' from two actions to one action. Visually, it looks like there's a natural stop already for "maximum insertion of right pin". So ... there's just some mechanism for preventing over-extraction of the right pin.
I was going to suggest the same thing with the addition of adding one of those screw-in detent plungers to one of the pins. That would ensure the separation plane would always line up and a generous chamfer on both pins would make for a quick swap between modes of operation.
Nice fast project. I'm a little surprised you didn't make a set of pins with machined in stop collars such that when you pushed one from one side to the stop, it would have the pin for that side fully engaged and from the other side likewise. I know that's not the way it came from the factory though.
This is the first video where I've seen someone adjust the cutter to hit the center. Update: ...and since I'm not the only one to comment on that - a short video that focuses on that might be useful.
If you watch Keith Fenner's lathe video's you will soon see him adjusting his tool height. He has a neat technique where he puts a short steel rule between the cutting tool and the workpiece. If the tool is on center the rule points straight up if not it leans one way or the other depending on where the tool is high or low. Best Regards Sarah
I was thinking the same thing, just add a stop to each pin to keep it from going too far, and add a convex surface to the end of the pin to prevent any catching.
Wonder if the rear pin was original- the logical way to design that would have been pins with heads with each one the right length so when one was push in to the end, it would displace the other and vise-versa.
That's the way to do it, now aday al the safty freaks say no no that's not the a safe way to do sanding, for my opinion you dit a great job, and as always thumps upp :-)
He held the emery between finger tips, NOT wrapped around the hand or fingers. He was doing the correct way. If it grabs, it is simply removed from your grasp without loss or mangling of digits.
Hi many thanks for the video. Must be my understanding but could you manage with one pin that is transferred from one side to the other or does the handle stop the old pin from being extracted easily? Always great and informative videos, cheers.
My thought, exactly. Also, polishing the product makes it look pretty, but it takes time and cost - My theory is polish when there is a functional need - otherwiise, stop and go to the net job.
I thought the same thing, but how would you design it? Maybe a roll pin thru only one side. It has to pass that open sided slot. But is there room or would it interfere?
Isn't that the truth, the smaller jobs take forever to get done or also the jobs that deal with the trade or craft your in. The shoemaker's kids had no shoe's
@@fredfranklin2054 Then one side can be reamed to make them the same. It simply seemed to be a lot of flurry over a trivial matter. Regardless, Keith is happy and that's cool.
It hurts mah eyes when u thought putting it further in bcz of the Chatter will help it. I just said to myself it will not like it either way.. U should have went down with the spindle speed or made 2 Cuts out of it, wouldn't have taken any longer but better for the Tool.. And Probably for the lathe too... I mean I am by no means a pro at working with a lathe.
Love watching Keith's videos, but.... How come when I watch Adam Booth doing machine work, it looks like the skill and precision of a brain surgeon but Keith looks like a "hold my beer and watch this" machinist??
@@youbecha64 Well if the tip of the file drops onto a chuck jaw, the file would be launched. That's why Mr. Pete reminds us of proper file handles with metal rings. The side is not a big problem. The jaws are hardened.
Guess nobody to Direct your video shoots.....or....your video editor did not notice....You look at the Lens directly if you want to be talking to the viewer....not at a point above and left of the camera lens as in this and other videos of your Projects....!
The compounding mechanism. Our grandfather's were clever buggers.😊
Nicely made pin, especially the hand/finger grip. Quite often in a workshop while on a job, simple little items like these will make one search and get frustrated. Getting things complete and organized alliviates that.
My Dake has been missing the short pin for 20 yrs. Now I need to make one. Thanks Keith.
Disclaimer: I am not a real machinist, but as a scientist learned to do some machining. I was wondering whether you think that slowing down the speed of turning would have improved the chatter situation. That was the first thing I thought of. I love your videos and am delighted at the work you do, rescuing and restoring wonderful older machines. Thank you very much.
Suggestions, Add a heavier chamfer to both pins. Use ring grooves to limit travel of the pin.. You should not have to pull one pin but simply use one pin to push the other out. Neat Arbor press BTW.
So glad you polished it! I wouldn't have slept otherwise!!! Nice job.
now I can't sleep because he probably got the abrasives all over the ways
It seems like you only need one pin for this, either inserted in the left, or in the right, unless I am missing something?
Keith, When your bitt was chattering I was wondering why you did not spin your compound around. Would have eliminated the chatter, less file work. There are always many different approaches to doing even the simplest jobs. But in the end it came out very nice. I always enjoy your videos. Gary
Thank you very much Keith! Even the little jobs get done to perfection, I like that.
you should "blue" both the pins since they often come in contact with hands .
Keith, You are awesome and a great video. Have a good weekend!
That is one nice arbor press Keith. Should serve you many years of service.
Come on, Keith, the long pin needs the same TLC :)
how about a collar or sumpin on the short pin so it stops before it crosses the gear area and into the hole for the long pin?
Another great video Keith.
Your always a pleasure to watch. Thank You!
Adjusting the cutter height was informative. A great lathe 101 video.
A 1cm-ish Nd magnet attached to the end seems like it would take the process 'swap two pins' from two actions to one action.
Visually, it looks like there's a natural stop already for "maximum insertion of right pin". So ... there's just some mechanism for preventing over-extraction of the right pin.
I was going to suggest the same thing with the addition of adding one of those screw-in detent plungers to one of the pins. That would ensure the separation plane would always line up and a generous chamfer on both pins would make for a quick swap between modes of operation.
Nice job another good part
Nice fast project. I'm a little surprised you didn't make a set of pins with machined in stop collars such that when you pushed one from one side to the stop, it would have the pin for that side fully engaged and from the other side likewise. I know that's not the way it came from the factory though.
The devil is in the details! Nice detail on the pin end Keith, like its original equipment.
Hi Keith, I like your approach. Try and see, to put it politely! BobUK.
Why can't you just use the existing pin for both functions? Am I missing something?
It looks like the longer pin would be annoying to take out and put back in every time.
I think I would have welded a t handle on to grab instead but that is personal preference😎
This is the first video where I've seen someone adjust the cutter to hit the center.
Update: ...and since I'm not the only one to comment on that - a short video that focuses on that might be useful.
If you watch Keith Fenner's lathe video's you will soon see him adjusting his tool height. He has a neat technique where he puts a short steel rule between the cutting tool and the workpiece. If the tool is on center the rule points straight up if not it leans one way or the other depending on where the tool is high or low. Best Regards Sarah
@@loydsa Thanks!
Need a storage spot on the machine for the pin when not in use.
Would you just set a magnet on the side of the frame or are you thinking of a jig like a bur block or drill block?
Why does it need 2 pins instead of 1 from the right that you set into the 2nd hole or just leave it only in the left hole?
I suppose we can say that Keith had a pressing engagement.
he sure did im-press me.
Can you switch modes by just pushing the pin? (And thereby pushing the other one out of the way?)
I was thinking the same thing, just add a stop to each pin to keep it from going too far, and add a convex surface to the end of the pin to prevent any catching.
Hi Keith thanks for the great content! I would like to know where you source your denim aprons. I need one for my shop! Keep up the great work!
I would of made it out of 1.125 or 1.250 stock. so I could of made a collier to stop pin from going in too far.
Need a stop ring on it!
Right. A simple groove with a snap ring would only take a few more minutes.
I missed something why couldn't you just use the one pin you had on eater side. It would just stick out a little bit.
been waiting till thsi morning thanks
It appears Keith was pressed for time to make the pin for the press.
Edit: Keith was pressed to pin down a time to make a pin for the press during his down-time.
9:00: are you going to put a collar (washer?) on the pin to limit travel ... ?
This press was made about a mile or less from where I am sitting right now
Wonder if the rear pin was original- the logical way to design that would have been pins with heads with each one the right length so when one was push in to the end, it would displace the other and vise-versa.
I would have thought there would be a single (long) pin that pushes left/right to select the mode?
Can't be a single pin. That would lock the press from working in either mode.
That's the way to do it, now aday al the safty freaks say no no that's not the a safe way to do sanding, for my opinion you dit a great job, and as always thumps upp :-)
He held the emery between finger tips, NOT wrapped around the hand or fingers. He was doing the correct way. If it grabs, it is simply removed from your grasp without loss or mangling of digits.
Hi many thanks for the video. Must be my understanding but could you manage with one pin that is transferred from one side to the other or does the handle stop the old pin from being extracted easily? Always great and informative videos, cheers.
My thought, exactly. Also, polishing the product makes it look pretty, but it takes time and cost - My theory is polish when there is a functional need - otherwiise, stop and go to the net job.
I think I would like to have a shoulder on each pin so the pin will stop just short of the pin hitting the other side if the machine were mine.
Keith, you seemed uncomfortable some in this video. Were you trying out new cameras or something? Maybe I'm just imagining things.
why doesn't this pin need to be hardened?
why has it not got a pin to stop it coming out fully ?
I thought the same thing, but how would you design it?
Maybe a roll pin thru only one side. It has to pass that open sided slot. But is there room or would it interfere?
@@cannon440 part key way with location pin or grub screw location in slot
Isn't that the truth, the smaller jobs take forever to get done or also the jobs that deal with the trade or craft your in. The shoemaker's kids had no shoe's
Pin kind of looks like a cartridge case
Fyi: it's not tool chatter, it's cutter too high!
Why not just remove the pin from the left side and insert it on the right side?
looks like two different diameters
@@fredfranklin2054 Then one side can be reamed to make them the same. It simply seemed to be a lot of flurry over a trivial matter. Regardless, Keith is happy and that's cool.
It hurts mah eyes when u thought putting it further in bcz of the Chatter will help it. I just said to myself it will not like it either way.. U should have went down with the spindle speed or made 2 Cuts out of it, wouldn't have taken any longer but better for the Tool.. And Probably for the lathe too... I mean I am by no means a pro at working with a lathe.
You should’ve knurled the grip cap
This job must not have been very pressing.
😑
A pun with punch.
#1
🏆
Love watching Keith's videos, but....
How come when I watch Adam Booth doing machine work, it looks like the skill and precision of a brain surgeon but Keith looks like a "hold my beer and watch this" machinist??
That's because Adam has been, and still is, being paid to do his work, wheras Keith is not.
I know you are a pro Keith...but that file next to the spinning chuck was a but uncomfortable for me.
That particular type of file is known as a lathe file, mostly due to the angle of the teeth. It's made for doing just what he did with it.
With the chuck stopped he would have filed a flat, you know.
It looked like the file was less than a file width to the chuck...smartass...that is the uncomfortable part...
@@youbecha64 Well if the tip of the file drops onto a chuck jaw, the file would be launched. That's why Mr. Pete reminds us of proper file handles with metal rings. The side is not a big problem. The jaws are hardened.
Slow down!
Guess nobody to Direct your video shoots.....or....your video editor did not notice....You look at the Lens directly if you want to be talking to the viewer....not at a point above and left of the camera lens as in this and other videos of your Projects....!
I guess, you are looking at the flipped viewfinder of the camera.....
@@NavinBetamax it would be less distracting if he wasn't constantly swiveling his head to talk to his machine, then glance back at the camera.
@@mikemarler8224....... got to find the swivel switch first......then check if it is malfunctioning , then.......Lol !