ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2023
- Are you looking for a high-quality 3D printer that won't break the bank? Then you need to check out the Elegoo Neptune 4! This printer is perfect for beginners, and it's fast and affordable. Plus, the Neptune 4 comes with a ton of features, making it the perfect choice for anyone looking for a great 3D printer at a great price.
Elegoo Neptune 4 ($260) - bit.ly/ElegooNeptune4
Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro ($300) - bit.ly/ElegooNeptune4Pro
The last generation of printer with different size options:
Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro ($230) - bit.ly/ElegooNeptune3Pro
Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus ($350) - bit.ly/Neptune-3-Plus
Elegoo Neptune 3 Max ($470) - bit.ly/NeptuneMax
3D Printer Enclosure ($40) - amzn.to/3D2LdNY
Neptune 4 Wi-Fi Setup - • Neptune 4 Pro - Closer...
STL Files:
AT-AT - Star Wars Pot Plant - www.printables.com/model/4939...
Cute Stylized Dinosaur Toy - www.printables.com/model/4895...
Mobile Exo-Suit Phone Stand - www.printables.com/model/5002...
3d Printer Filament That I Use:
PolyLite ABS - bit.ly/PolyLite-ABS
PolyLite ASA - bit.ly/PolyLite-ASA
PolyFlex TPU 95 (Flexable) - bit.ly/PolyFlex-TPU-95
PolyLite Silk PLA Blue - bit.ly/PolyLiteSilkPLABlue
NylonX Filament - bit.ly/MatterHackersNylonX
PolyTerra Marble PLA - bit.ly/PolyTerraMarblePLA
TECSONAR Tricolor PLA - amzn.to/3H79d5N
Build Series PLA - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeri...
Build Series Silky PLA - bit.ly/BuildSeriesSilkyPLAMat...
Build Series ABS - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeri...
Build Series PETG - bit.ly/MatterHackersBuildSeri...
PRO Series Filament - bit.ly/MatterHackersPROSeries...
Amazon 3D Printing Filament:
PLA - amzn.to/3gsLE9Z
PETG - amzn.to/3pXjjvu
ABS - amzn.to/3wsTRjS
ASA - amzn.to/2RX8dtM
Polycarbonate - amzn.to/3cLdr38
Nylon - amzn.to/3iNGeI2
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Note : Most of the links that I use that go to products are affiliate link. This means I make a small commission on anything that you happen buy using them. This is at no extra charge to you and this helps support the work I do on this channel. 😁👍
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#elegoo #Klipper #3dPrinting #DIY #RandyMay - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Elegoo did it again
Loving this wave of actually decent bed slingers. Great video!
Yeah it is nice to have the ability to use fast bed slingers. I do think things might be all moving over to core XY
Hey man just wanted to say thanks for the quick video. It helped confirm my decision over the ender 3 S1 pro. The difference between the 4 and the 4 pro is quite minimal imo so I think I’ll just opt for the 4
Wifi is pretty easy in both usb dongle and wifi extender configurations. The USB C on the front is used to serial SSH into it with putty and it takes all of 2 minutes to set up or you can Ethernet ssh into it if you have dhcp set up on your router, which most people do. You just have to make sure you get the right wifi dongle because the Linux distro they are using is finicky about which ones will work without adding drivers. The board is a dumbed down makerbase skipr, so I'm curious to see if it'll experience overheating and mcu shutdowns after a while, like the skipr and mks pi do.
Don’t you need to replug the dingle in every time you boot it up? That’s what I’ve heard from others
@@Faysalariss I've heard mixed things. Best bet is to go with a WiFi range extender on the Ethernet port instead. I never had to remove and reinsert on my mks pi boards, which the znp k1 is based on, but there could be a bug that makes it so on the Elegoo modified version.
you had so much noise because by default back fans assembly speed are set to "violent", which is highest of 3. You can change speed on touchpad even during print process
Good to know
I’ve pre order one
Oh nice let me know what you think of it once you get it
Any ideas if you could put the new all metal print head on a Neptune 3 pro/plus/max?
It looks like it has the same mounting points. If you are just wanting an all metal hot end on the Neptune 3 pro/plus/max you might want to check out this video that I did showing how to do that. th-cam.com/video/MeQtTKjHpqw/w-d-xo.html
Whats it like & have you tried it with flexible filament ? And can it do ABS ?
I have and I had no problems with TPU or ASA when I put it in an enclosure.
I've heard you can turn off the 4 rear fans and there's a "mute" fan mode. How quiet does that make the printer?
I am interested in this answer too
@@beav1962 I ended up buying the printer. To answer the question it’s loud enough you can sleep with it in the same room. It’s not too bad if you’re not trying to sleep though (even if it’s right next to your head like it is for me).
Cool!
😁
Looks like the nozzles aren't standard. They have M6 threads but the ends are not the same as Mk8 or V6 nozzles. Also wondering if the bed sensor would work with a clip-on glass or Garolite bed.
Yeah it uses a different nozzle and idk if the homing sensor will work on glass but also why would you be using a glass bed on this printer when it has a textured PEI on it already?
@@randymay Have you seen the glass-smooth surfaces you get when printing on bare glass? It can matter. I use IKEA mirror tiles as a printing surface for PLA. And Garolite is supposed to be fantastic for nylon and polycarbonate.
Which one is better this one K1 or P1P in terms of quality? I know there are some VFA problems on P1P.
I don't have any problems with VFA on my P1P. Over all I think they are almost the same but I feel like the P1P makes better prints.
@@randymay Awesome thanks. Can't wait for P1S.
How much impact does hooking up to the internet have vs not?
You can do a lot more printer tuning if you connect to it over WiFi and use something called fluid but other than that it will print the same if you send a file over via WiFi or just use a thumb drive.
i considering this and ender 3 v2 neo... which is better u think?
This
Hi, this is Leticia the one who has the Neptune 4. I ordered an enclosure for it. However I am new with 3D printing so with that sticking to PLA. Should I use an enclosure with it?
So if you are only printing PLA then you really don't need an enclosure. That being said it can be helpful to have when printing PLA if you keep this in a cold area seeing that it doesn't would well in temps under 60f room temp.
@@randymay thank you
I'm in doubt between Neptune 4 and Kobra 2, what do you think?
Definitely Neptune 4. For $40 more, it's hard not to go for the 4 Pro.
Looking for my first 3D printer and was checking out the Ender 3 v2 Neo, would spending a little more for the Neptune 4 be a better idea. Cant decide lmao
Get the Neptune 4 over the Ender3 V2 Neo. The Neptune 4 is going to be much quicker
@@randymay thank you my man 🙏 went ahead and ordered the Neptune 4, it didn't give me a shipping date but I'm sure since I'm in the US it won't be long
Oh good to hear and let me know when you get it and what you think
@@randymay for sure I'll let you know, how long was the shipping for yours ?
It was fast but it was also a review unit so not a good example seeing that I had it a month before it was even available 😅
I just bought a new neptune 4 and I can't print off anything but the files that came on the usb stick, I can't get any STL files to open, and if I remove the gcode file from the buda folder it doesn't see that STL file either. This is my first printer and I'm lost... why is this difficult?
Gcode and STL are very different kinds of files. You need to use a slicer program like Cura or Elegoo's slicer and put your STL file into that and slice it to make the gcode for the printer to be able to use it
@@randymay ok I did that and it won't print the object...comes up with an error
Sadly it sounds like you need to look up some basic TH-cam videos on how to work the 3D print because without me being there to see what is going on I can't really help
@@randymay I'm getting a error saying the firmware has crashed and needs to be restarted...I think I'll just dissasemble it and sent it back to amazon...I didn't think I would have to become a rocket scientist just to print off some stuff.
So that can happen sometimes when the motherboard and screen don't communicate properly right away all you got to do is fix that is turn it off wait a couple seconds and turn it back on and let it reconnect
I'm on the fence. SV07 Plus, Neptune 4 Pro, or wait for the larger size version of the Neptune 4 Pro (hopefully with WiFi)? These higher precision higher speed Klipper bed slingers are a great innovation. I'm looking more for better print quality and I'm less interested in print speed. I print a lot of TPU, some PLA and I'll move from ABS to PETG with an unenclosed bed slinger.
I don't have a SV07 so I can't really compare them first hand. When it comes to speed you can always just slow it down on the settings in quality is more of a concern. The Neptune 4 is a nice printer for the price for sure.
@@randymay- The SV07 Plus (300 x 300 x 350) just went on sale today for $320. That's very tempting, but I think I'll hang in there for a bit in the hope of a larger Neptune 4 Pro. I like the steel motion control components, particularly on a larger fast printer, but the SV07 Plus has WiFi and that's an extra cost and hassle on the Neptune.
Yeah that is a hard choice for sure.
Just got an ender 3 v2 neo for my bday but am returning it and really questioning what to get.. Looking at the P1P, K1 speedy, Sv06 plus or a neptune 4 pro. What would you get for your first printer in the current times? Budget is around P1p territory. Been liking the looks of Bambu but don't like the privacy policy and the closed eco system for parts. K1 was looking alright but it was having issues as well, idk lost atm on what one to dive into..
100% the P1P or if you have the extra $100 the P1S. Here's a video on the X1 carbon that I just made and I also talk about using the P1P seeing that I own one as well. th-cam.com/video/8mqrm_2_yzc/w-d-xo.html
Also if you're worried about the privacy part of it all that's understandable but you're going to run into that same situation using any of the printers that use online printing you can always just plugged in an SD card and print directly from the machine so your bypassing that and I believe there is a lan mode option so you're not using the internet exactly You're just going through your local network.
@@randymay thank you bro I'll make the leap for the p1s would like to print abs and such and the ams would be nice to have in the future 👍
@@randymay Welp ended up finding a P1P on the marketplace for a lil $$ off and went for it and am not disappointed one bit! Just going to upgrade it to a P1S.. Thanks again bro!
Oh very cool and let me know how that turns out
@@randymay So far been great! Even got the AMS now, only issue I got now is coming up with stuff to keep the printer going lol.
I have one on pre order..do you know what type of nozzles does it use? I really wanted to get some hardened nozzles so i can print some glass filled and carbon filled ..I emailed elegoo but they never really gave me an answer on if they are gonna offer them . Im sure once someone gets one and figures out measurements and threat pitch there will be some on the market i just really wanted to get a head start lol
Did they even get back to you?
@randymay not they never gave me any type of straight forward answer.. But I have been in contact with micro swiss and they have 2 nozzles that may work... and they said if them 2 don't work they will be making one exclusively for the neptune 4
I just bought one of these but when going through the slicer I use (prusa) they don’t have a preset for this printer and neither did cura when I looked, what slicer are you using with this printer?
I'm using the Elegoo version of Cura for this printer because it had a preset profile for it. Once you have the preset profile you can always transfer it over to the normal version of Cura or Prusa
See that’s where I don’t understand because I downloaded elegoos version of cura off their website and it only shows the following printers and no others, Neptune 1,2,3,3max,3plus,3pro, Neptune x, and the elegoo Saturn? But nothing for the Neptune 4 or 4pro?
When you get the printer, on the USB drive It has the Elegoo version of Cura on it with the profile for the Neptune 4 😁👍
Oh perfect okay, thank you !
How about speed 100mm/s is still have good printing result?
Yep
Which is better, the Ender 5 S1 with sonic pad or the Elegoo Neptune 4?
Neptune 4
How much speed can you get out of it without using a Klipper?
The firmware of the printer is klipper so there is no open to use or not use it.
@@randymay
Does the clipper have to run parallel to the slicer on the machine? And do you need to constantly communicate with the printer? So in the cura I set it to 300mm/s and it will only work if the clipper is running on the machine and the printer detects it?
So you might be overthinking this a little bit. The Klipper firmware is basically what runs the machine The slicer is what's on your computer.
If anything download the Elegoo version of Cura so you can load the default profile for this printer. From there just do everything as normal slice your file using the slicer program save it to an SD card or USB drive and plug it into the printer and tell it to print using the screen.
@@randymay It's good then, only because I saw a couple of clipper prints. There, all kinds of code lines and values were given in a separate program. Then this is not necessary, I just use it like Sovol06, but it will be much faster?
Yeah pretty much and if you want to use the official version of Cura with it you just need to copy over the settings from the Elegoo version of Cura. I'm sure they'll add it in the machine options later on to the standard version of Cura
The manufacturer seems to have chosen the marketing path for this model.
Adjusting the table is good.
A disposable heavy extruder is bad. Namely, the manufacturer made it disposable in pursuit of relief (unsuccessful, but more on that in the end). Gears are now original and unassembled, and it is impossible to buy them even in the official store)) The quality of the gears is not very good and, of course, they are NOT hot (like steel, not magnetic, it looks like stainless steel), so do not try to print composites.
At the same time, the plate of the table carriage remained steel (aluminum would be 20 grams lighter and not worse).
The nozzle heater is now also rare, in size 16*15*20 mm. So I still have to look for replacement socks. And the native sock crumbles after two weeks of work at 255 degrees.
The LED on the extruder is cool, but I feel it will die because of working in extreme thermal mode.
For the same reason, the inductive sensor of the auto-level of the table will also die. On Neptune 3, the same one died after several heats of the table to 85 degrees (the printer is in a passive thermal chamber). If you plan to print petg and abs, then buy a pair of spare NPN NC type. Do not try to find the original ones, they, like the gears, are also not in this store or in others))))
The nozzle radiator fan is now 3010 (instead of 4015), works at much higher speeds and will die sooner. Fortunately, if you file everything superfluous in the extruder, you can find a place for the cooler 4015.
Super blowing is not needed, because there is no question about the quality of printing at the stated speeds, so we have 4 unnecessary 4020 snails.
And I also decided to weigh the extruder assembly ... (in the advertising picture, the seller boasts of the extruder's weight of 291 grams, which is like a hundred grams less than Neptune3). And so. The extruder assembly actually weighs (!) 472 grams!
In general, there will be no long-term high-quality work at the maximum declared temperature characteristics, there is also no need to wait for speeds, and it is better to buy Neptune3, which is much cheaper and more maintainable.
The practical printing turned out to be somewhat better than I expected. The quality begins to be noticeably lost at speeds as much as 100 mm / s, which is very decent, despite all the jambs. The list of which I will probably continue.
The z-axis guides moving along the screw axes have a backlash of 2 millimeters. It must be eliminated, while avoiding the rigid attachment of these guides.
The system loads from 30 seconds to 3 minutes. The screen freezes very often when the buttons are pressed (usually for a couple of seconds, but sometimes up to 10 seconds). Occasionally, after pressing the buttons, the required action does not occur. It is impossible to press several different buttons in quick succession.
There is no menu for setting jerks and accelerations, and what the manufacturer has screwed up by default, it's scary to think, given what he "calculated and projected" print speeds. We'll have to manage this from the slicer.
An adjustable table is probably a good thing. but.
1. Two-stage calibration of the table at 121 points is too long, namely 10 minutes from start to restart to save the parameters (without a final reboot, the table map is not saved). About half a minute of this time is spent by the printer on unnecessary trips from the zero position to the same zero position. By the way, before printing, the printer also goes home twice for some reason.
2. the alignment interface is made completely incomprehensible. Visualized is not a logically obvious square of 11 × 11 points, but an incomprehensible rectangle of 6 × 11 points. the zero count on the z axis does not come from any particular angle and/or level, but floats all the time according to an incomprehensible algorithm and it takes a crazy amount of time to truly align the table! The first time it took me 5 hours of almost continuous attempts, the second time a few days later I managed in 3 hours. This is a procedure that should take 15 minutes! moreover, I understood the process of achieving the result very vaguely and, even having achieved success, I cannot explain it (which means I cannot repeat it quickly).
It was only possible to understand that you need to turn in the corners where the value is minus counterclockwise, and where the value is positive - clockwise, but only in one corner and a little bit.
By the way, the Z-offset is reset when calibrating the table and needs to be reconfigured too.
3. The heating of the table and the extruder has really become more efficient. However:
If you change the calibration temperatures of the nozzle and table through the standard settings, then instead of calibration, the printer hangs tightly after heating.
The settings of the preparatory temperatures of the table and the nozzle for the accelerated start of printing do not work here at all, since if you turn on the preheating of the table and the nozzle, then before printing the printer to turn on the heating of the table to the operating temperature... Attention!.. It will wait for the nozzle to cool down to 120 degrees))))
In general, compared to neptune3 pro, very ambivalent impressions. However, the disappointment from the shortcomings is gradually compensated by the fact that in fact the neptune 4 is about 1.5 times faster than the neptune 3 pro with the same print quality.
You might be over analyzing this printer. This is a budget printer so things aren't going to be perfect but it does work.
This guy has copy pasted this same shit on every neptune 4 video, probably works for creality or some shit
What's this?. Stephen Hawking on Steroids? ? "OK, Computer" (Radiohead)... Sheesh!
What are you talking about? Sadly I don't understand this at all.
@@randymay Exactly