HUGE FAST & AFFORDABLE? - $470 Elegoo Neptune 4 Max 3D Printer
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ต.ค. 2023
- HUGE FAST & AFFORDABLE? - Lets checkout the brand new Elegoo Neptune 4 Max and see what this beast can do!
Thanks to Elegoo for Sponsoring today's video!
Neptune 4 Plus - bit.ly/Neptune4Plus
Neptune 4 Max - bit.ly/Neptune4Max
New PLA Colors - amzn.to/3tKK24A
Mars 4 Ultra $309 ➜ bit.ly/Mars4Ultra
amzn.to/44TKn1r - Amazon
Mars 4 $259 ➜ bit.ly/ElegooMars4
Neptune 4 Pro $299 ➜ bit.ly/Neptune4Pro
Neptune 4 $259 ➜ bit.ly/Neptune4
NOW ON AMAZON ➜ amzn.to/44kLsiJ
Neptune 3 Max ➜ amzn.to/3YRKE3F
Elegoo Rapid PLA ➜ amzn.to/3QPJ942
Mars 4 Ultra $309 ➜ bit.ly/Mars4Ultra
Mars 4 $259 ➜ bit.ly/ElegooMars4
Saturn 3 Ultra 12K $499 ➜ bit.ly/Saturn3Ultra
Saturn 3 12K $399 ➜ bit.ly/ElegooSaturn3
Mars 4 Max $300 ➜ bit.ly/Mars4Max
Mars 4 DLP $500 ➜ bit.ly/Mars4DLP
@TheFeralEngineer video on how to fix the Homing Grinding
• Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus ...
Files from todays video
Samurai Magneto Helmet by 3D Craftsman
/ 3dcraftsmanshop
Print n Place t-Rex by Flexi Factory
/ flexifactory
Enoch Helmet by Galactic Armory
/ galacticarmory
Cyberpunk Johnny SilverHand Bust by Eastman
/ eastman
Unicorn Skull by Holo Props
/ holoprops
Poison Bottle by Clockspring3D
/ clockspring3d
MY PATREON / My 3D Printer Settings ➜ / unclejessy
Make your own Resin 3D Printing Timelapses with Resinlapse ➜
linktr.ee/resinlapse
Some links on this page are affiliate links that help out the channel.
________________________________________________
My PATREON ➜ / unclejessy
Buy Me a Coffee ➜ www.buymeacoffee.com/UncleJessy
_______________________________________________
Gear I'm Using ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/unclejessy
________________________________________________
Twitter ➜ / unclejessy4real
Instagram ➜ / unclejessy4real
Facebook ➜ / unclejessy4real
TH-cam ➜ / unclejessy
________________________________________________
Thanks for watching!
#3DPrinting #3DPrinter #unclejessy - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
13:50 - that should be a hour Longer! not an hour less 🤦♂ Can you tell I dont script out any of my videos 😂
could i checkout the profiles you used?
I cannot find that galaxy black filament anywhere on Ella goose website. Are you sure it is not made by a different manufacture? Or have they just not released yet?
As someone who is running older printers with a sonicpad to get klipper functionality. I am interested in seeing how these bed slingers compare to the core xy options that are out now. Hoping for a deeper dive into that. Awesome to see some promise already.
Loving my Neptune 4 Max so far! Printed out a Flatbox and a CherryBox leverless controller from Printables and they both came out amazing using your OrcaSlicer profiles! Thank you so much for the great content!
Heck yeah! Excited to hear that and glad to hear they worked good!
@@johannesbatzer1599same
What tier are the profiles on? Or where can I find them?
How do I get the orca slicer profiles? I am about to get my neptune 4 max this week and I wanna get started on the right foot.
I have the same profile but the prints are ugly my I have to put more slow?
I'm glad you mentioned the z offset issue, I'm having the same and thought I was going crazy
Looks great! It would be good to see a comparison of print times, for the same model, with older machines, to get an idea of how much faster these prints can be - if that would be interesting.
My last 3D printer was an Ender 3 & im in the market to start again. How far 3D printing has come is incredible 🤯
When you set up the printer did you set the Z offset first then do the manual bed level then the bed mesh? I was having the same issue with my 4 pro up until recently and thats what I did to fix the issue. Also Ive been getting the same banding on other filaments particularly silks and some PETG I notice it on brighter colors. not sure if its a fluctuation of heat or what.
Since Elegoo announced the Giga with larger nozzles, I'm optimistic that they will be available at least by next Spring when that's supposed to be available. I have a 4Pro and was considering adding this, I'm using the Neptune for rough drafts before doing slow AF final prints in my BCN W50 and have had a ton of issues with supports, stringing and under extrusion so I think I'll be waiting for now to see the status of larger nozzles and sorting out slicer issues. I dislike Cura and will have to look into Orca, unfortunately the BCN also uses a skinned Cura and it's been hard to find an alternative that lets me do enough tweaking to supports to ensure successful prints and can support the IDEX on the BCN. Thanks for these reviews, it's super helpful to sort through all the options!
What are you make if you don’t mind me asking and are they all one tone
Have this printer myself and love the results but had a couple of issues. First the gantry wasn't square, I actually had to shim it to get it truly square. This was causing me to have inconsistent layer heights as the print got higher. 2nd the bed sensor doesn't give a consistent z on home. I frequently have to change the offset +/- .1mm to get a good first layer. 3rd... they used a very old distro of Debian that will not support updated versions of Klipper and the Fuidd interface they have chosen gives incorrect data like stating the start time of the print is the projected end time. Of course because Debian is so out of date, the arguably best choice for camera support, Crowsnest can't be installed. The included camera support will keep the camera up for an hour or so but will need a system reboot to bring it back once the camera is shut off by the system. I put in a ticket with Elegoo and they were very insistent that nothing of the software be changed and the z sensor is working as intended.
With all that being said, it's a good printer, it just needed a little more tech savviness on the software end in my opinion.
Hi Uncle Jessy. Great video as usual. I finally received my elevo Neptune 4 plus printer this morning and to my great surprise one of the brass nuts (endless threaded bars for Z axis) is loose. The 2 screws that hold it are barely tight and therefore leave some play. On the other hand, they will be perfect. Is this normal? did you have the same thing on yours? Thank you for your help and see you soon. Victor😅
I haven't been able to find an answer, is there a major difference, aside from the size, for the EN4Max and the EN4Pro? I really want the Pro, but it would be nice for larger prints on the Max. I am trying to replace my EN2S that got flooded.
thank you for that great video. i want to try the orca slicer. thank you for the recommendation. i got the neptune 3 plus from your recommendation and am very happywith it.
The only issue I've run into with the fan module is with some tree supports on larger prints, printing at speed, they can flex and get caught on the fan. I ended up taking the module off and slowed the print speed down to about 225mm/s and haven't seen any negative results.
I have this, been printing helmets with it. It's a beast!
Hey Awesome video can't wait to see more. Thought you should know at 15:30 your volume changed and went quieter.
I was thinking about getting a printer and really enjoyed the video. I was wondering if you had any videos on using or how to use the programs you mention in the video.
just ordered mine last night, cant wait to set it up, been awhile since i had a 3d printer
I have the same z axis problem for my Ender 3 S1 Pro. It started when I started to use Cura 5.4, somehow part of the gcode that would take the auto bed leveling and apply it to my new print went missing so I had to put that back in. Not sure if that is related to your issue
hey! Great video, totally convinced me to get one of these. Where can I find that galaxy black filament? I haven't been able to find anyone selling it.
im buying a 3d printer soon as was wondering, do you have to build it yourself after buying it? or do they come prebuilt?
How do you set up Orca to include the N4M? I did not see the option in the printer menu for the N4M.
Great video! Which firmware version are you using on your machine? Also, would you be willing to share your Orca Slicer settings for the N4 Max, please?
I 2nd this
I was on the fence on buying this, but now you have convinced me to pull that Triger.
My Neptune 4 Pro has been running almost nonstop since I got it probably six weeks ago. It's great. The only issue was the LED on the print head dimmed to almost nonexistent after 100 hours of ABS prints directly over a 110 C print bed. I'm waiting for Elegoo to make a Neptune 4 Pro Max with steel rollers on steel rails. I think that will be a significant improvement for print quality and reliability on a fast large format printer that is accelerating a relatively heavy print bed.
Elegoo should have used a Volcano compatible nozzle for all of the Neptune 4 series. They all print the same materials at the same speed. Making proprietary high flow nozzles when there is already a standard is not customer oriented. It's not as bad as some of the proprietary stunts Qidi has pulled that convinced me not to buy any more of their printers (I bought seven), but it's still needless market complexity and hassle that we don't need.
Hello, I also want to buy a neptune 4 but there are a lot negatieve reviews. What slicer to you use?
@@nanneborn4523 - I use PrusaSlicer. I loved being able to send G code directly to the Neptune 4 Pro via the Fluidd web browser tab rather than previous printers where I had to load the G code onto a micro SD card that was then plugged into the printer in the most awkward position imaginable. Then I started sending the G code to the Neptune 4 Pro directly from PrusaSlicer. It's as easy as 2D printing a document from LibreOffice. Why did it take so long before Klipper made this happen? I'm now a huge Klipper fan.
That Galaxy Black PLA has produced some amazing prints for me too. It's just uncanny how good stuff printed with it looks!
I just ordered 5 more rolls of it 🤣😂 I’m obsessed
@@UncleJessy It makes for a GREAT filament to print things for the printer because it pretty closely matches the long extrusions that the bed rides on!
Got a link for the filament you used?
Odd elegoo told me its not for sale and i dont see it on the website, how did you get it?
How does Neptune 4 plus compare to bamboo p1p for helmet prints speed wise?? I'm having a hard time deciding which one to get
What brand was the rainbow filament?
Like the old Anycubic Chiron (400x400x450), I look at these large scale bedslingers and really, really want to turn these into voron, vzbot, etc. But would it be cheaper just to build completely from scratch or mod these? The main reason for swapping into a Core would be resonance frequencies changing as more material is added to the bed. Slinging your product instead of your tool head invites problems.
good video - new to 3d printing and researching options. Narrowed down to Prusa XL, Bambu X1C and the Neptune 4 Max. For a first printer, I think I will go with the Max. Thanks for posting
Why did you not go with the x1c??
I’m fairly new to 3d printing. I’ve been using the Bambu x1c but really want to get into a much larger build volume for work. Would I have a rough time with this big guy?
can you give an opinion regarding this printer versus the anycubic kobra 2 max?
Where can I find your settings for this printer, specifically large prints? I'm running into a lot of warping on my poster high speed prints and can't seem to figure it out
I have an Anycubic Chiron with a huge bed. My solution was to build a wooden wheeled cart with heavy locking wheels. That way you can roll it out of the way when not in use or wherever you have the space for it when you are printing. That way it does not take up valuable counter space. The shelf underneath can hold tools, filament, etc. Maybe you can collaborate with a woodworking creator like Bob from "I like to make stuff?"
I ordered a 4 Plus last night as my first 3D Printer. No idea how long it'll take to ship. Suffice it to say I'm looking forward to your review next week 😅 It was between 4+ and the SV06+ for me but Klipper+WiFi won out.
I'm excited for you. You picked a good time to enter the fray.
fwiw my 3 max took about half a year. stock was low at all suppliers at the time
I ordered one 8 days ago, and it has already shipped, so hopefully his has too.
Awesome video. Should i purchase from AZN or Directly from Elegoo, as I thinking if there is an issue and getting a new one. How is Elegoo with returns? Also, Does AZN have newer or older models in stock?
I don’t think it’s acceptable for a company to try selling printers with proprietary nozzles anymore. That alone would steer me away from this printer. The cr-10s pro was the same way, and I ended up replacing the hot end which with that fan on this printer might not be possible…
Yep, I was going to buy this until that point in the video. It's a real dealbreaker.
Yeah, I wasn’t too happy when I found that out as well. Fingers crossed other manufacturers jump on it as well
If you have to choose between the k1 max and the neptune 4 pro or max. What will be your option to buy ??
It's been awhile since I've printed silk , but I think the extrusion rate might need to be lowered and it might be a good idea to tinker with a temp tower
@UncleJessy please help.
My EN4M has so many issues when trying to print at 300mms+ using Rapid PLA+
do you have a Detailed tutorial of settings needed to set up and run it on orcaslicer?
Great video. :) I am disappointed with the nozzle. i was thinking about picking this up with a diamond nozzle but at this point it has changed my mind on purchasing the printer. maybe after a short time it would have one of those nozzles available but i am not confident that will happen anytime soon. with this video it has greatly helped me not make a mistake on getting a printer for cheap but not with the things i would want or need. Keep up the great work. :)
@UncleJessy
Could you please make a followup comment or video on how to fix the Z offset issue that you mentioned towards the end of the video when a fix is available? I feel like my Neptune 3 Pro suffers from a similar issue so I am interested in possible solutions.
do you have a video about your support setting and do you have some setting for orca aka bambu lab? I seen your short where you just pull the supports off that magneto helmet
Are there CHT nozzles for these already ? Also could you not print faster with CHTs instead of normal nozzles ?
That looks like the sv06 plus nozzle.... I think I saw some where that someone identified that nozzle as a nozzle specific to another Creality printer (K1 maybe?), but that might be wrong. Anyway, would be interested to see if it's actually the same as the Sovol.
Where can we get the updated firmware? My 4 max is absolutely needing it but no idea how to get it and put it on this printer.
Elegoo is so weird, they are so fast with releasing hardware but the firmware and software is always needing to be upgraded or fixing somehow. It is like they barely test it before releasing it😂
4.8 Cura is fine and they have new firmware for the 4 and 4 Pro get the Bed leveled an let it ripppppp
Yes Support and Firmware very Bad ...
@@umutkucuk7213thats correct i return my neptune 4 max
i use prusaslicer on the neptune 4 and no issues. idk why they even bother with elegoo cura
I think cura is not ready for high speed printer.For example, speed is not adjustable for the first layer after support. You need to slow down whole top and bottom layers. If elegoo provide software support neptune 4 pro will become one of the best printers.
Everything looks so smooth, and layer lines are non-existent, what are your settings in orca? Please. Awesome Video!!!
Would you mind sharing the printing settings for the helmet made of elegoo galaxy black pla?
I would like to print CF materails like NylonX, is this nozzle replacable with steel nozzle to print such CF filaments ?
I have this printer on its way. So to prepare, i have been playing with Orcaslicer. The print times are really long so far, how can i speed them up?
I just boughtthis printer and I want to print a helmet what is the best setting for a Marrok Helet that is in 6 pieces? By the way all six pieces will fit the build plate at once.
Yes. The dual and tri color filaments will cause those lines when they twist.
HI JESSY! On your patreon, you mentioned you have printer settings for this, do you have profiles for the Longer LK5 Pro and the Creality Ender 3 S1? We have a few printers
Very cool and thanks for the video. I've been waiting for weeks to see it. I'm curious, how does it print with other materials? Can it print in the Elegoo PLA + at speed? Or PETG? I'd love to reprint a few R2-D2 parts with it and print other droids...
Yeah I’m going to be throwing down some other materials on it here in the next week or two. Including some flexible marwrials
Cool! Can't wait to see how it goes.
I just finished a life size bust of a Utah Raptor with feathers. (glued on) I wonder how fast the Neptune 4 could have printed it?@@UncleJessy
i occasionally get that z-offset glitch on my neptune 3 max... i noticed i get it when i print via usb directly from cura, and then print something with the micro SD card... when i go back to cura, the z-offset is either super high, or very low... it's so strange... i've asked several groups, but no one else gets this "glitch"... i'll level it again, and i know the number i use for my z-offset, i have it written down on a post it on my monitor... and then i'll adjust it again, start to print, and it's wrong... super strange...
I'm using your Patron profile for this printer and also getting a lot of stringing so any updates / advice would be appreciated. Excellent video and printer (so far!)
I've had mine for a about 2 weeks now. I'm enjoying it so far but it does have some quirks I hope get sorted through a firmware update. I've experienced the z offset issue you mentioned but it's very random. I've been printing out the large parts of the Robot Devil model from Droid Division over the past few days and the printer has been on the whole time, z offset was consistent til this morning when all of a sudden it needed to be adjusted up by .08. The size of the bed makes it very prone to big movements from temperature change so like you I am glad it has the leveling wheels. The Elegoo Cura is a big turd, I wish they would just come with finely tuned profiles for the more popular slicers. The potential for this machine and what it can enable me to do are tremendous. This printer combined with the Creality K1 I picked up a week before this arrived have transformed me back into a maker instead of a 3D printer. Which is incredibly freeing to have such reliable tools.
How are you liking it 4 months later?
What do you have to say about her today? Do you recommend buying it or any other model?
I love seeing all the things i no longer have to deal with ... Your issues with Z offset tweaking with each print, powering off the printer between prints, stringing... So much stuff i dont have to deal with since getting my "other" printer. When i saw that klipper screen and heard you needed to add gcide to get the end stops to work, i shuddered with PTSD from those days.
I keep getting layer shifts on mine. I updated the firmware, tightened the belts, switched to Orca, and it still gives me giant layer shifts.
Thanks for this. I'm debating on getting a new, new printer since my Chiron is a mess at the moment and I have to catch up on printing for dragoncon 2024.
Does this have bigger x and y steppers? My neptune 3 will not print higher than 125 mm/sec. higher than that I get stepper skips. I would like to be printing in the 200ish mm /sec.
The thing I'm finding out about elegoo with having SLA/FDM printers myself is the company is just awesome in general.
@UncleJessy wich one do you think is bether Elegoo N4 Max or the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max ?
Thanks, Jesse! Had my eye on this printer for a bit. One thing I haven't been able to find is how much room front and back is needed for full extent bed movement... Base dimensions are available but not actual required useable space... Can you help out?
Just measured my 4 Max, the full sweep of the bed is 37 inches full back to full forward. It's 27.5 inches wide and 30 inches tall without the spool holder, I've got it on the bottom shelf of a 48" x 24" shelving unit and had to put a 2x4 on the floor in front of it to give it enough room to move. It's a beast.
@@leeball4 THANKS!!!
Do you have a link to the orca slicer profile that you mentioned you are using.
I might of missed it. Does the machine have a heated bed?
K1 Max or Elegoo 4 Max?
Oh, I just fixed that z offset issue on klipper. My start_print macro was setting z offset to zero. Check your macros, maybe that's what's causing your issue
I had the same z off set issues on n4max and n3plus. It;s like the settings are being reset every time you run print.
Also noticed difference in z-offset when measuring on previously warmed up plate and a plate which has already cooled a bit - sub 60 degrees.
the auto measuring takes a long time on 4max so having to run this every print is getting annoting
I’m having the same issue with my N3Pro. It’s been a recent development for me after printing fine for most of a year. I’ve been thru all the mechanicals and they’re fine. I’ve begun to wonder if it isn’t caused by some change in the more recent versions of most slicers?
@@lizzylightning6224 For me it's not a slicer error as the same file can replicate the same inconsistencies
I have a a1 mini on order should I get this one instead
My printer comes later today, I will have to for sure try our that slicer and your files.
I got the Neptune 4 Max, but is is very buggy on the Z axis. I need to wait for a firmware update.
So I stumbled upon an amazon link from Elegoo on amazon that has the bigger nozzle sizes for the plus/max. It said it was listed/available as of oct 25th?
I think I would like this printer, it’s big enough for cosplay and it’s quite fast but I also want to do stuff with robotics like combat robotics but that would require accurate detailed prints. Would this printer be able to handle it
How loud is it if you are printing without the turbo fans?
Galaxy Black filament looks so damn cool! These Elegoo printers look great too. Still waiting to put my Neptune 4 Pro together.
How do u like this over the k1 max?
Mine came in Saturday. Liking it so far.
4 Months have passed for you now, I have an X1C and I want bigger prints.
I have heard some bad things about this unit, is there anything I should be concerned about?
I'm looking to print Nylon and CF-Nylon just as an FYI
Personally was having issues using orca slicer, the profile I had set up reset itself. And it didn’t have the best quality. Then I used the elegoo version of cura the printer has on its thumb drive and my prints have been coming out pretty nice. I’ve only used pla with it for now. For other materials I’ve been using my x1c. For a giant bed slinger it’s not bad. First layer offset has been my biggest issue, I usually need to mess with z-offset on first layer every time, bit annoying. The x1c has spoiled me.
@@elricevan Yeah I really want a large format that performs like the X1C I just don't have the time to constantly fiddle with the printer I just want my prints and wanna build my projects lol.
I have heard a ton of bad stuff about this thing and I can't seem to find any large format that fits the bill right now.
Hopefully one day Bambu gives us something
@UncleJessy Hi. Complete newbie here. Is this a good entry point for someone looking to start 3d printing?
Can you use Cura 5.5 with this printer?
Hey Jessy, would like to get your profile for the Max4. I've had mine for over 6 weeks and am struggling to see the point. A machine this large needs an enclosure, and it will never print fast due to the mass of the print bed being slammed violently back and forth. This is causing the y axis motor to skip, layer shifting, etc. Bed-slingers and speed do not mix. I note in your video that your speeds are very medium. Try those in sport mode....
Looks like a great printer! Question; Are there any options to add multi-color to the printer (aka, pallet)?
Yes, the palette work with the elegoo printer, if not online you can always use the accessory mode.
Can you Tell me, with how much Speed do you Print There with the New Printer? Or can you Tell me a good Speed Number What will Print fast and dont kill the quality? It Looks so good..
Hmm, i have that Z offset issue with Sovol SV07 Plus constantly too, Z keeps constantly drifting off.
Plus or max? What do you recommend. Just in general, take size and cost of the decision
You called out same the issues I’ve had with mine. I’m liking the machine but really want to switch over to Orca. After living with Bambu Studio for the last year Cura just feels like a step backwards.
I’m looking to get into 3D printing and I am leaning towards the Neptune 4 max because of the large print volume (want to print helmets etc) but wanted a printer that could do multiple colors at once. Any suggestions?
Bamboo labs
Excellent review. Can you share the orca profile?
Offset changing like that is usually due to bad v-wheels. Try swapping them out for Triangle Labs v-wheels, they usually provide a much better experience on any v-wheel printer.
It is actually due to Interpolate setting set to True and stealthchop set to 999999 in 26 firmware. 43 has some stuff addressed, but not fully.
@@VolodymyrBurenin how would that cause the offset to change in the way he describes? From what he said is happening, it SOUNDS more like the bearings in the wheels have come loose from the POM tires and are creating inconsistent movement...at least from what he said of the issue he's experiencing.
@@Geoff_W it also can be a contributing factor, ELEGOOs klipper settings are not great.
Where can I get the stl for your prints? Mainly the dinosaur for my grandson. Thank you.
I'm really impressed with my Neptune 3 pro, cant go wrong with it for a beginner!!!
How does this compare to the Mingda Magician Max2 which is what I got.
If you do the got to home command on the tablet , load filament on the prepare screen , squeeze out one run wipe of the nozzle by razing Z to clean snot off then run Print ,The Input Shaping on these is Crazy smart .before i put a 8 kg square outdoor tile on my PC bench we were rocking an rollin with NO tile and print perfect ,i cant really say that the heavy tile helped the A.I Anti wobble seemed to not care about motion sickness LOL and was no difference in print quality wether its bolted down or going of on its own like some sort of crazy machine trying to change the world , one of the smartest things i heard on a 3D Printing channel was use one of those receipts you get say from the $$$ store in America there really thin 0.6- 0.7 mm .these Elegoo printers want a fair amount of squish in the purge line before you start to print isn't like two flat lines overlaying each each length ways Re - Z an bed level other wise bad things are going to happen i Know some of the so Called better printers are closed in ,but in fact cooling the print rather then slow cooling the print in an enclosure isn't really achieving anything but adding to EXTRA cost of your printer , its my belief that the more expensive printers arent really giving you anything extra than say a dust shield and really Custom spot on printer CFG .with that said id rather save my self 600 + odd dollars and spend it on filament and use one roll tinkering with the settings and be 15 rolls or so in front of someone who bought the $1200 printer its embarrassing really i think Elegoo is Like Toyota the went they saw they conquered in small iterations and came up with the best Quality Printer for the Price and still looking at the rich kid saying Bet you Pink slips i can beat you .
So did you get an OrangeStorm Giga and testing it? I backed it, know tons have.
How does this compare to the AC Kobra2 max?
What you said about having to adjust the z-offset constantly made me instantly perk up. I've been having a similar (maybe the same?) issue on my Neptune 4 Pro and it's driving me absolutely nuts. I'll get one or two good prints out of it and then it seems like I just can't get the first layer to work at all even on the most basic print. Check the bed leveling and everything is fine, but if I adjust the z-offset manually beyond what it should be, it seems to help. Really hope they get out a fix for whatever that issue is. I'm going to try the power-cycling tip for sure and see if it helps.
I thought I heard there was a new Neptune 4 firmware update that helped resolve that. I haven’t checked to be honest though
I had the same issue and I had to hurry out and let it run without check and absolutely destroyed my tool head when the filament caked on it. It also caused the printer to go in error mode and the motherboard now needs firmware reflashed. Unfortunately there are no parts available for the 4 max yet and as of now no new firmware updates either. Don’t take me wrong it’s been a great printer and I love it. I made the mistake of not watching it for a few layers and adjusting the z-height and that’s on me.
On my Neptune 3 Max (running Klipper) I'm pretty sure this issue is just a thermal expansion situation. If you fire up the printer and start printing the moment the temp is stable the "gap" is different than if you let the printer sit "at temp" for 15min or so and then start printing. In any event, do the bed level at the temperature conditions you will be working at... always printing on first fire up? Do the bed level immediately after you've hit temp. In my case I ALWAYS let the printer idle at full bed temp for 15min before starting to print, and that is the point in time I did the bed level. That way if I abort a print shortly after starting, or immediately launch into another print, I don't have to worry about waiting for thermal expansion on a "cold" printer...
That could be. I have typically done my bed leveling after heating the bed to 60 and nozzle to something like 140 (so it doesn't ooze) but I haven't let it just soak heat at full temp for 15 minutes. I installed the latest firmware (turns out I was not on the latest) and still having some issues, but I actually now suspect there's more going on. I get a lot of gooeyness that strings and globs all over the bed even at lower temperatures and that's destroying adhesion. Once I get the initial layer down it's all fine from there, but that first layer is a doozy. I'm using Overture matte PLA filament fresh out of the box and it's consistently happened with six rolls ordered on different occasions. I get slightly better results at higher temperatures (225 nozzle / 70 bed) but then more stringing. So, I'm not sure if maybe it's the filament or retraction or bed leveling or flow or something else entirely. I'm just not experienced enough to know what I'm looking at when it's going wrong.
My Max is in an enclosure, and I run the bed at 100C printing ABS, so these thermal issues are even more magnified. I chased this issue for days when I first started printing, but having a consistent approach to WHEN I start printing vs WHEN I did the bed level was the key to success. Again, let the whole printer come to temp and stay there for 15min, then do a bed level, then always start your printing run after a 15min warm up and this Z offset issue will go away. I do have another alternate bed level profile in Klipper/Mainsail that was taken just at first bed warm-up to temp, but I only did that after I understood the full issue, and you darn well sure don't want to get the profiles mixed up... :)
Do you have a comparison between the Neptune 4 Max and the 3 Max?
I have this and use Orcaslicer but, can't get settings for bigger layer heights. Using a .8mm nozzle and can't get than .28mm. Help?
I’m still new to Orca, but when you set up your printer profile did you make sure to set it to that nozzle size?
I suggest a dryer box for your filament. A dual one is my suggestion. I got mine from Amazon I think.
in order to level small portions of the bed, try putting notecards or small slips of paper (obviously smaller is better) between the build plate and the magnet where you have low spots.
try using aluminium foil folded. transfers the heat better.
Help! I have one and now I have really odd software issue and can't even use my new printer any help would be appreciated