I Honda Civic. I'm taking it for protection with Krown, because I'm not sure if the wax really covers all the points and I don't want to repeat it again, so that it doesn't get too thick. What bothers me about Krown is that dust and dirt stick up, and where I drive the car for protection, they don't wash and dry the chassis before applying the protection again.
I'm using Cosmoline on my cars in Minnesota. It's the brand that both Porsche and the US government uses. It is also a wax product that dries after application and won't come off without a solvent. It comes in either amber or black. I like the black to see where it has covered. Lasts for years.
Fluid film and PB Blaster are better. This stuff locks in moisture. If you have a weak point in this coating it cracks and moisturizer gets behind it it will be worse and rust even faster. You'd have to remove the coating with a special solvent and re-do it all over. Fluid film and PB blaster must be checked once a year and touched up but that's it you're done. If you plan on running through car washes go with PB Blaster it's more resistant to pressurized water than fluid film.
My uncle made up a concoction of melted canning wax(for fruit preserving) and ATF and spray it on his trucks and this was 50yrs ago. His old GMC and Chevy trucks survived the Jersey Shore winters he said the wax was the special secret.
H just had a front suspension assembly ROT OUT from under me. Hard part to get. No new, no aftermarket. 08 Ford Taurus X. UNOBTAINIUM AT ANY PRICE! Ordered a used one from south of the rust belt. Got it on a palet. Easy to coat. Got the part sprayed down. Replacement goes on the car next week. THANK YOU!
Just moved to Connecticut from Louisiana with a 3rd gen 4runner I've gotta undercoat as well, but I've never heard of this Amsoil product. Gotta see some real-world results before I start using. My plan is to use Surface Shield, after much research, but excited to learn of another product that might offer multiple-year protection, rather than the older stand-by oil coatings that only offer one season of protection from the nasty salts and chemicals they dump on the roads up here. Look forward to an update in a year! Thanks...
Surface shield is a good product. But Fluid Film works very good too. I have several trucks coated in FF and after several years of touch-ups, the coating is so thick nothing gets through it. The thing i like most about FF specifically is that is stays really wet, so it keeps things lubricated, like door and hood hinges, windows, tailgates, suspension parts, and even nuts and bolts are easier to remove because they aren't rusted and basically pre-lubed.
But you can't go wrong with either one. I've also used NHOU (New Hampshire Oil Undercoating) and it creeps into nooks and crannies like no other product on the market, and smells good too. The downside is that it's not nearly as resistant to wash-off like FF or PB surface shield.
Another place I spray is inside the doors, since water can get stuck if the drains inevitably get plugged. If you're doing the speakers or a window regulator, it's a convenient time to get those. Or I guess you could use the long straw nozzle.
This is good advice and something easy to overlook/forget. If the door panels are off, grease those window tracks and clean out any gunk in the bottom of the door.
Great project! Perfect little re edit for the 2nd channel. I remember when you got it and did this! Now that it’s been a couple years I’d love to see a video revisiting this undercoating and seeing how it’s held up!
1:12.. You actually have to let that dry completely... blowing off the surface moisture isn't dry. When you put that on, (Cosmoline essentially) you're going to trap moisture. Which is a worse situation... you're actually supposed to let the car sit at least 24 hours but 48 is better to ensure that it is completely dry.....
Fluid film and PB Blaster are better. This stuff locks in moisture. If you have a weak point in this coating it cracks and moisturizer gets behind it it will be worse and rust even faster. You'd have to remove the coating with a special solvent and re-do it all over. Fluid film and PB blaster must be checked once a year and touched up but that's it you're done. If you plan on running through car washes go with PB Blaster it's more resistant to pressurized water than fluid film.
I'm envious. Every time I visit the American southwest, I marvel at how there's so little rust. Someday I have got to visit Australia. (Not because of rust, lol. It looks to have so much natural beauty)
Hope you didn't forget to do the rim on the spare. That looks like just a general cpc(corrosion preventive compound) that's used on aircraft and industrial applications. Not sure on the brand but the stuff we use at the papermill where I work is only around $5 a can.
The most important key, to start with "No RUST". If it's got any rust, even flash rust. It needs to be neutralized before coating with anything otherwise it will continue to rust, you just can't see it.
It’s a keeper for a few more months until he’s bored and looking on the internet and makes a title “surprising my wife with a new 2,000 Horsepower Van”.
I have Honda Civic. I'm taking it for protection with Krown, because I'm not sure if the wax really covers all the points and I don't want to repeat it again, so that it doesn't get too thick. What bothers me about Krown is that dust and dirt stick up, and where I drive the car for protection, they don't wash and dry the chassis before applying the protection again.
I'm in Western NY, Finger Lakes and do i know rust! Dads truck, 2012, frame won't pass inspection. My ride is salt free underneath. Thanks for the videos!
I also use gator it’s supposed to be a bedliner spray, but you can put it on your frame and underbody. I crawl under my jeep every year I haven’t had a spray in two years but I live in Wisconsin where, it’s cold and we use salt
I'm definitely going to do this on my next new car and as suspension components get replaced. The corrosion is becoming an expensive nuissance on my 11.5 year old BMW
Alex, I tried some of the HD Metal Protector with my last Amsoil order. (through your storefront!) I sprayed it liberally over my truck's control arms, wheel wells, etc. It just seems to go on so thin. Have you used the stuff long-term? I also tried Fluid Film, but the cans make a huge mess and the spray nozzle is focused rather than misting. Before that I was using Blaster Surface Shield, which makes much less of a mess. Those latter two go on pretty thick, while the HD MP seems much less obvious. I'm thinking of getting a pneumatic sprayer for future use of the usual products.
I have one bone too pick with everyone and even shops that do undercoating. Cause everyone seems too completely forget the front and rear bumpers, those are crucial areas that always get hit with the salt and everything else thats flawn up from the tires. I guarantee if you take the bumper covers off you'll see more salt and road grime hiding behind the covers
Where is the mister nozzle? I ordered 4 can and just noticed it's not in there. Looked backa t site didn't it. Also, I thought u might have a link just for that. I didn't see it
I never heard of this brand but typically the wax based rustproof not as effective as oil based. I personally, use many different rustproofing but by far Krown Rustproofing were the best however it must be applied yearly.
i wish you had made this video months ago... I used this product on my car but couldn't find that fancy nozzle you used so I went through 6 of those red little spray straws (lost inside the frame of my unibody car for all time). That stuff has quite the smell eh?
So I want to begin this process for my 14 vw Jetta, but I notice some car shops use a black undercoat layer instead. What brand or color is recommended for the winter seasons? Thanks in advance
I just purchased a 2016 F150. I live in New Hampshire so there are some areas of surface rust. Would you recommend I wire brush and spray a converter before applying Amsoil Heavy-Duty Metal Protector?
Please use properly rated jack stands in conjunction with the plastic ramps. Also make sure the ramps are rated for the weight of the vehicle. The ramps can fail possibly crushing anyone underneath. There are videos of the ramp failures on TH-cam.
I'm an avid fan of the MPHD, but it won't last that long. Has to be sprayed twice a year, at least. It last's better than Fluid Film, Woolwax and Surface Shield, but it will still wash off and get 'sandblasted' off in a lot of areas under there.
Looking how great your car looked, I'd consider first a coat of anti-gravel paint. And then wax it with a thick layer with a compressor. With time the wax will be washed away in certain areas, where the under coat of paint will be another layer of protection.
Without drilling the doors, you have not protected the hem joints at the bottom of each door. You should be spraying product in there and allowing it to slide down to the bottom and fill up. Also, any product that drys and becomes “hard” like a tar or a wax is not a good material for wintertime undercoating. You want the surface protectant to stay moist and pliable so that it doesn’t create a crust. Reason being is that any kind of crusty coating can eventually pull away from the metal and actually cause accelerated corrosion by trapping moisture and not allowing it to dry out. There is a corrosion inhibitor report the government of Canada released and they found that products offered by companies such as Krown and RustCheck are superior for that very reason. For example, say you spray this Amsoil product into a crevice. It will creep into that area and fill it up, and then harden. The first issue is that you’ve now blocked this area from future applications. Secondly, you have not prepped the surface so it’s not actually adhering to the metal, it’s just floating on the dirt and previous coatings that were on that metallic surface. You need apply something thin that doesn’t entirely solidify if you want protection through temperature cycling, weather conditions, mechanical movement etc. waxy metallic protectors are use primarily in the manufacturing industry to protect raw metal after it has been machined where you are applying the product to a perfectly prepped substrate. They are also designed to be removed later with a special solvent for subsequent processing. Companies make products like Tektyl which is very similar to the Amsoil MP for this reason. Also, since the metal protectant is oil based, you don’t want to spray it on anything polymer based such as door gaskets, plastic components, bushings, window trim, etc. it will break down these components over time and turn them to rock.
@@SkywardOnewaxy coatings actually hurt corrosion protection if they pull away from the metal and trap moisture. In that regard, not spending anything would be better! You can get superior products for $40 from the companies I listed.
This MPHD stays soft enough that it doesn't trap salt & moisture. I'm in Canada and use it all the time and have been for 10 years. It may be oil based, but there isn't enough oil in it to hurt rubber or plastic. My experience with Amsoil and undercoating in general outweighs all that 'book learn'n' you've done.
I'm a little surprised he didn't pull the wheels and rotors and treat everything behind there. I mean he made a point of doing the backing plates but they have two sides and only coating one side is pointless.
What kind of car or truck are you undercoating?
Become an AMSOIL Prefered customer here: www.amsoil.com/offers/pc/?zo=5427904
Any chance you can post a link to the spray nozzle? Thanks. 👍👍
2016 F150. Could you post the pressure washer you use and which sprayer? I bought your foam cannon and would like to know.
I Honda Civic. I'm taking it for protection with Krown, because I'm not sure if the wax really covers all the points and I don't want to repeat it again, so that it doesn't get too thick. What bothers me about Krown is that dust and dirt stick up, and where I drive the car for protection, they don't wash and dry the chassis before applying the protection again.
I'm using Cosmoline on my cars in Minnesota. It's the brand that both Porsche and the US government uses. It is also a wax product that dries after application and won't come off without a solvent. It comes in either amber or black. I like the black to see where it has covered. Lasts for years.
Maybe it was born with it. Maybe it's Cosmoline.
@@Dwigt_Rortugal I get it. Ha! Ha!😄
Fluid film and PB Blaster are better. This stuff locks in moisture. If you have a weak point in this coating it cracks and moisturizer gets behind it it will be worse and rust even faster. You'd have to remove the coating with a special solvent and re-do it all over. Fluid film and PB blaster must be checked once a year and touched up but that's it you're done. If you plan on running through car washes go with PB Blaster it's more resistant to pressurized water than fluid film.
My uncle made up a concoction of melted canning wax(for fruit preserving) and ATF and spray it on his trucks and this was 50yrs ago. His old GMC and Chevy trucks survived the Jersey Shore winters he said the wax was the special secret.
Mustie uses the wax ring for toilets to melt into his mix
@@mac4boys541I missed that, I've seen him use bar & chain oil.
@@mac4boys541used toilet wax ring too lol.
I do love the Amsoil products, but the fluid film is rated a little bit better!! Definitely recommend doing two coats
I forgot about this channel and immediately went to subscribe and realized I already was, cool
Extremely grateful i live in an area where rust is not an issue!!
Where?
@@dejandezman6139 Pluto
Rust is always an issue even if you live in California, you don’t have to coat as often but you will always benefit from coating
H just had a front suspension assembly ROT OUT from under me.
Hard part to get. No new, no aftermarket. 08 Ford Taurus X.
UNOBTAINIUM AT ANY PRICE!
Ordered a used one from south of the rust belt.
Got it on a palet. Easy to coat. Got the part sprayed down.
Replacement goes on the car next week.
THANK YOU!
Nice work. I use black fluidfilm. It works awesome. And the black looks great.
Just moved to Connecticut from Louisiana with a 3rd gen 4runner I've gotta undercoat as well, but I've never heard of this Amsoil product. Gotta see some real-world results before I start using. My plan is to use Surface Shield, after much research, but excited to learn of another product that might offer multiple-year protection, rather than the older stand-by oil coatings that only offer one season of protection from the nasty salts and chemicals they dump on the roads up here. Look forward to an update in a year! Thanks...
Surface shield is a good product. But Fluid Film works very good too. I have several trucks coated in FF and after several years of touch-ups, the coating is so thick nothing gets through it. The thing i like most about FF specifically is that is stays really wet, so it keeps things lubricated, like door and hood hinges, windows, tailgates, suspension parts, and even nuts and bolts are easier to remove because they aren't rusted and basically pre-lubed.
But you can't go wrong with either one. I've also used NHOU (New Hampshire Oil Undercoating) and it creeps into nooks and crannies like no other product on the market, and smells good too. The downside is that it's not nearly as resistant to wash-off like FF or PB surface shield.
Another place I spray is inside the doors, since water can get stuck if the drains inevitably get plugged. If you're doing the speakers or a window regulator, it's a convenient time to get those. Or I guess you could use the long straw nozzle.
This is good advice and something easy to overlook/forget. If the door panels are off, grease those window tracks and clean out any gunk in the bottom of the door.
Chipping in from the (California) cheap seats, but have you considered pulling the fender liners and protecting the metal underneath?
Great project! Perfect little re edit for the 2nd channel. I remember when you got it and did this! Now that it’s been a couple years I’d love to see a video revisiting this undercoating and seeing how it’s held up!
1:12.. You actually have to let that dry completely... blowing off the surface moisture isn't dry. When you put that on, (Cosmoline essentially) you're going to trap moisture. Which is a worse situation... you're actually supposed to let the car sit at least 24 hours but 48 is better to ensure that it is completely dry.....
No rust issues here in the AZ desert! Great video!
I use cosmoline RP- 342 .That stuff is the best
Thanks, Alex! I'm going to look into this stuff. I currently apply Fluid Film every year to protect my car from Minnesota salt season.
I use both products.
Fluid film and PB Blaster are better. This stuff locks in moisture. If you have a weak point in this coating it cracks and moisturizer gets behind it it will be worse and rust even faster. You'd have to remove the coating with a special solvent and re-do it all over. Fluid film and PB blaster must be checked once a year and touched up but that's it you're done. If you plan on running through car washes go with PB Blaster it's more resistant to pressurized water than fluid film.
I'm so glad I live down in Australia, not having to worry about this is the best.
I'm envious. Every time I visit the American southwest, I marvel at how there's so little rust. Someday I have got to visit Australia. (Not because of rust, lol. It looks to have so much natural beauty)
Yeah living in Australia you have to deal with some insane wildlife that us in the states don’t have to deal with. 😂
Then just out of curiosity why were you watching?
Thanks for this! I live a few states away and I want my 2017 to last until I die and I get buried in it. I can't wait to do this in a few months!
Thanks for this, passed this video onto my Honda Element Owners Group!
Hope you didn't forget to do the rim on the spare. That looks like just a general cpc(corrosion preventive compound) that's used on aircraft and industrial applications. Not sure on the brand but the stuff we use at the papermill where I work is only around $5 a can.
It is AMSOIL, which is an MLM. I would be zero percent shocked to find them relabeling existing products
@@rustler08 Do you have any evidence to support those claims?
The most important key, to start with "No RUST". If it's got any rust, even flash rust. It needs to be neutralized before coating with anything otherwise it will continue to rust, you just can't see it.
Best investment for a car learned that from a friend of mine and to always have a pull apart manual for your car.
Alex, I guess the wife is saying this one's a keeper
This isn’t his wife’s anymore. He’s using it as a daily. She drives a Tesla now.
This is an old video from when he got the car. Possibly before he surprised her with it or just after.
I need to have this done on my car.
@@larriebee👍
It’s a keeper for a few more months until he’s bored and looking on the internet and makes a title “surprising my wife with a new 2,000 Horsepower Van”.
I have Honda Civic. I'm taking it for protection with Krown, because I'm not sure if the wax really covers all the points and I don't want to repeat it again, so that it doesn't get too thick. What bothers me about Krown is that dust and dirt stick up, and where I drive the car for protection, they don't wash and dry the chassis before applying the protection again.
Where did you get the atomizer spray attachment for the can of protectant ?
How many cans would I need to under coat a G37x 2010
I'm in Western NY, Finger Lakes and do i know rust! Dads truck, 2012, frame won't pass inspection. My ride is salt free underneath. Thanks for the videos!
How do you make it salt free? Or did you mean rust free? Or maybe salt and rust free?
Next up!!!! Alex does a video of dry icing the escalade!!!!😂😂
I also use gator it’s supposed to be a bedliner spray, but you can put it on your frame and underbody. I crawl under my jeep every year I haven’t had a spray in two years but I live in Wisconsin where, it’s cold and we use salt
I'm definitely going to do this on my next new car and as suspension components get replaced. The corrosion is becoming an expensive nuissance on my 11.5 year old BMW
Yellow suggests this is Lanolin based (sheep oil) an excellent rust treatment/preventative
Alex, I tried some of the HD Metal Protector with my last Amsoil order. (through your storefront!) I sprayed it liberally over my truck's control arms, wheel wells, etc. It just seems to go on so thin. Have you used the stuff long-term? I also tried Fluid Film, but the cans make a huge mess and the spray nozzle is focused rather than misting. Before that I was using Blaster Surface Shield, which makes much less of a mess. Those latter two go on pretty thick, while the HD MP seems much less obvious. I'm thinking of getting a pneumatic sprayer for future use of the usual products.
I have one bone too pick with everyone and even shops that do undercoating. Cause everyone seems too completely forget the front and rear bumpers, those are crucial areas that always get hit with the salt and everything else thats flawn up from the tires. I guarantee if you take the bumper covers off you'll see more salt and road grime hiding behind the covers
I use fluid film on my 17 Silverado. I did it at the beginning of last winter and it seems to still have a nice coating still
Where is the mister nozzle? I ordered 4 can and just noticed it's not in there. Looked backa t site didn't it. Also, I thought u might have a link just for that. I didn't see it
I never heard of this brand but typically the wax based rustproof not as effective as oil based. I personally, use many different rustproofing but by far Krown Rustproofing were the best however it must be applied yearly.
Have you tried fluid film ever? I am also confused between brown and fluid film.
@@jeet0119i have never tried Fluid Film but it appears like woolwax. I prefer the Krown because it spreads after spraying.
Alex do you ever use fluid film inside the frame and cavities?
It seems like a similar product to the ams oil product
Nice Alex! Are those plastic end-links at 8:50 ?
I thought GM stopped doing that! Early C5s had those
can you post another video on the rust converter? I know you have done it before but I forgot which one.
Best PROVEN product for corrosion prevention and rust resistance.. POR-15. Contractor in Florida coastal builds
i wish you had made this video months ago... I used this product on my car but couldn't find that fancy nozzle you used so I went through 6 of those red little spray straws (lost inside the frame of my unibody car for all time). That stuff has quite the smell eh?
Safe for rubber bushings and lines ?
I prefer the cosmoline spray. You can get it in black too.
Step 1: Install a lift in your garage.
Yes. You must have a lift. No way you could get under a truck with a spray can. So add $4,000 to the $65, lol
Step 2, have zero rust to begin with
@@LegitStreetCars2😂
Spray over electrical wires too?
Going to need an update how it looks now, curious how well it worked.
Other than the exhaust, what parts exactly should I NOT spray? I assume no to the brakes and rotors?
Nice extra content! Keep it coming
Hey Alex! Hope this finds you well.
If you put this on your vehicle then drove it in salt and sprayed the underside with water would the undercoating stay?
Here's the full length Escalade video: th-cam.com/video/nbPhWohJkX8/w-d-xo.html
Be sure to subscribe while you're there!
Ha perfect timing, just ordered 3 cans of this stuff today.
Will this stay on after multiple times going thru a car wash? I was my car multiple times a week
Is the really early Saturday morning vid?
So I want to begin this process for my 14 vw Jetta, but I notice some car shops use a black undercoat layer instead. What brand or color is recommended for the winter seasons? Thanks in advance
Andrew hat tip on the music haha that’s nice.
Just to be able to do all this looks so satisfying and fun
should had done that to my truck 14 years ago but i wash under it after every snow/salt event. Are you going to do the inner doors and under the hood?
I just purchased a 2016 F150. I live in New Hampshire so there are some areas of surface rust. Would you recommend I wire brush and spray a converter before applying Amsoil Heavy-Duty Metal Protector?
Please use properly rated jack stands in conjunction with the plastic ramps. Also make sure the ramps are rated for the weight of the vehicle. The ramps can fail possibly crushing anyone underneath. There are videos of the ramp failures on TH-cam.
yooo we're back
It looks like their version of Cosmoline, which is the best of the products that dry.
Very satisfying Alex.
Is this available in the UK as we also salt our roads in the winter?
I really need to do this to my new car. How did you keep it from getting on the brake rotors? How many cans would a midsize suv need?
I believe he used 4 cans in the Escalade
I'm an avid fan of the MPHD, but it won't last that long. Has to be sprayed twice a year, at least. It last's better than Fluid Film, Woolwax and Surface Shield, but it will still wash off and get 'sandblasted' off in a lot of areas under there.
Looking how great your car looked, I'd consider first a coat of anti-gravel paint. And then wax it with a thick layer with a compressor. With time the wax will be washed away in certain areas, where the under coat of paint will be another layer of protection.
Nope... Don't do that. It traps water under the paint and will eat up your frame without you even knowing.
@@partyman6666 You're referring to rubberized paint, not anti-gravel paint.
I sure wish I had a way to clean off the rust under my Yukon Denali and get this sealer on there. If only I could get a 2 post lift for $65 :)
A lift is definitely not needed. Come on now!
@@LegitStreetCars2come on buddy! How are we supposed to get a 2 post lift past our significant others if you say we don’t need one! 😂
Hi!! You’re missing the link in the description..
Sorry, it's up now! Thanks for catching that!
@@LegitStreetCars2I still don’t see it, maybe I’m missing it somewhere, any help is appreciated thanks!
get 5gal of wool wax (black) and a sprayer from harbor freight
What about liquid undercoating like wool wax ? 😊
How often did you drive ur first Escalade during those 15 months? Was it garaged?
Amsoil MP is an excellent product!!!!
Fabricating a Pressure Washer attatchment with a Dishwasher "Arm" would probably make this rinsing an easier task...
What would you do if you already got some rust?
I think there is linseed oil in the bottles.
That “Hey” song is all that Tech Freeze plays on their videos. Wondered why it was familiar.
how does this stuff compare to fluid film?
I suggest you redo it in a years as with any product you will miss some areas. Nice video
Without drilling the doors, you have not protected the hem joints at the bottom of each door. You should be spraying product in there and allowing it to slide down to the bottom and fill up. Also, any product that drys and becomes “hard” like a tar or a wax is not a good material for wintertime undercoating. You want the surface protectant to stay moist and pliable so that it doesn’t create a crust. Reason being is that any kind of crusty coating can eventually pull away from the metal and actually cause accelerated corrosion by trapping moisture and not allowing it to dry out. There is a corrosion inhibitor report the government of Canada released and they found that products offered by companies such as Krown and RustCheck are superior for that very reason. For example, say you spray this Amsoil product into a crevice. It will creep into that area and fill it up, and then harden. The first issue is that you’ve now blocked this area from future applications. Secondly, you have not prepped the surface so it’s not actually adhering to the metal, it’s just floating on the dirt and previous coatings that were on that metallic surface. You need apply something thin that doesn’t entirely solidify if you want protection through temperature cycling, weather conditions, mechanical movement etc. waxy metallic protectors are use primarily in the manufacturing industry to protect raw metal after it has been machined where you are applying the product to a perfectly prepped substrate. They are also designed to be removed later with a special solvent for subsequent processing. Companies make products like Tektyl which is very similar to the Amsoil MP for this reason. Also, since the metal protectant is oil based, you don’t want to spray it on anything polymer based such as door gaskets, plastic components, bushings, window trim, etc. it will break down these components over time and turn them to rock.
What do you want from $40 of do it yourself? He clearly said it will last only a couple of years, depending on how you drive your car.
@@SkywardOnewaxy coatings actually hurt corrosion protection if they pull away from the metal and trap moisture. In that regard, not spending anything would be better! You can get superior products for $40 from the companies I listed.
@@SuzukiKid400 dude is on fire tonight.
This MPHD stays soft enough that it doesn't trap salt & moisture. I'm in Canada and use it all the time and have been for 10 years. It may be oil based, but there isn't enough oil in it to hurt rubber or plastic.
My experience with Amsoil and undercoating in general outweighs all that 'book learn'n' you've done.
What size cans do you get i only see the 8oz or 250ml. Where do you buy in canada. Thanjs
Is there a link for the nozzle?
My wife has the same car wish I could fix it up like yours
We have had it in the UK since the 80s, we call it duck oil
I'm a little surprised he didn't pull the wheels and rotors and treat everything behind there. I mean he made a point of doing the backing plates but they have two sides and only coating one side is pointless.
Why not cover the brake rotors since the product is a wax based, which could contaminate them?
You Should make the ford lightning into a absolute street racing beast
Amsoil product safe for rubber? And can you get it on exhaust?
I use it under my 4Runner and spray it on everything except for brakes and it works great
I've used this stuff at work for a few years now. I wouldn't use it for undercoating a truck lol dirt just sticks to it.
yeah it gets grimy. just use tractor paint.
@@ChrisWijtmansyou apply tractor paint to the inside of your frame and to prevent corrosion on hardware? That’s not as good as applying an oily film.
its even better.@@SuzukiKid400
Hey Alex
Did you get much on you.
Hope you’re doing well. Any more on the Tesla any mods been done to it yet lol😂
Too bad you can’t by it by the bucket…5 gallon and put a compressor on it. Would be a lot easier than fiddling around with little spray can.
Man, I miss my old garage…HUGE with a drain.
Make sure not to spray on the brake rotors or calipers when you do the backplates.
Why spray the tires
Hey do u live in the us??🇺🇸
Why did you create a second channel for?!?!?
Short stuff like this
Cosmoline is a good product that doesn’t get mentioned much.
This looks exactly like Cosmoline RP-342
Why not just spray rustoleum black rust protector. It'll last about 4 years instead of these oil sprays
Very nice.
I've actually heard that song before. 🤣