A big thank you to everyone who suggested this topic! Here are the links to the products I reviewed. More details in the video description. Looking forward to reading your comments and video ideas!! Best regards and thank you, Todd BiSupply: amzn.to/3M4FpIa Liekumm: amzn.to/3M3S7ap M Auto: amzn.to/3YMAuUa Black Widow: amzn.to/4cpqhQt Vowagh: amzn.to/3X3HxGt RhinoRamp: amzn.to/3X5ZpRk Eastwood: amzn.to/4fIcjft Petersen: amzn.to/3yO32lh MaxxHaul: amzn.to/3Z4ndGH Pittsburgh Plastic and Steel: Available at Harbor Freight
Personally ive never tried ramps o a concrete floor. always dirt or gravel. i cant believe how much slipping ya got goin on ! Crazy! .. i have pretty old standard american steel ramps. maybe 30 years old now?. they all look sort of rusty at this point but have never shown signs of buckling or stress, (cars and small trucks only. no tractors)
How about a "keeping them honest" series where you test the exact same products from years ago to see if they still perform as well today. I believe they degrade in quality once they achieve a name for themselves.
I would re do the test with the hydraulic ram. The actual contact area of a tire is very small. I would recreate the actual contact patch area for the force test. The plate used was far too big to simulate the actual tire load patch.
@@christisking7778I believe its about its self weight. I have four 2x12 with various length nailed together for my truck. It’s quite heavy but no doubt it can hold tons of load.
I had a quite scary experience with plastic ramps. I was at a VW meetup, and some friends and I were looking at someone's Jetta. A friend pulled the car up onto ramps, and another friend climbed under the car to look at the turbo linkage. We asked the owner to get in the car and start it up so I could use a scan tool to do an output test on the turbo. My friend had parked the car in reverse. The owner pushed the clutch to start the car, then without checking if it was in gear released the clutch. The ramps shot out, and the car went straight down on my friend. His chest was holding up the oil pan. Fortunately there were a lot of us standing around and in a moment we'd grabbed the fenders and picked the car up. Another attendee was a paramedic, gave my friend a good check over, and he only had some bruised ribs. A great outcome for a scary situation!!
I had as close of a call as you can have - Not with ramps but a jack on the side of the road. I was under the car with a jack and piece of 4x4 wedged under (I thought) as back up. The hydraulic seal on the jack gave out, the car came down kicked the wood out and the car landed on my left shoulder. Fractured my left shoulder blade, compound fracture my clavicle, broke 4 ribs on my right side, punctured right lung and the subframe cut open my forehead. 3 people lifted the car just enough for me to slide out. *PLEASE take ANY & ALL PRECAUTIONS possible and be SUPER CAREFUL while climbing under any car/truck. I BARELY escaped with my life. If you do not feel 100% safe don't do it*
That's why you should allways place the wheel under the car while you're working on it, if it were to fall of the jack, the wheel would prevent the car crushing you.
Exactly. Whenever doing something dangerous like that, I always think in terms of "what's the worst thing that could happen?" Instead of "that should be good enough." Eliminate or safeguard against all the worst case scenarios I can think of, before I'm satisfied that it's safe.
@@KayoMichiels - Agree, plus to make it worse, I'm a mechanic for 30yrs+, It was supposed to be a quick roadside repair and I was being stupid. I took things for granted and it almost cost me my life.
Good precautions. I might add that you should position yourself as far away from the car underside as possible, just in case it does slip or move-John in Texas
When my dad taught me how to work on cars 25 years ago, he said you always use two types of support. So if you drive up a ramp, put a jack stand or two. That way if something slips / collapses / etc, you have enough time to get out.
These all had two things in common made in China and solidified the fact that I’m sticking with my hydraulic jack and jackstands! Another great PF review! Wait that is three things!!
also if you take off the tires pput them under the vehicle if a low rider as if it does fall those tires may save your life sure youll need new rims but better them than your ribcage
Great suggestion by fans and excellent review. My cousin died under a car when the jacks slipped. Same possibly with any ramp. I would ALWAYS use two types of support in case the first fails, slips etc. As a career firefighter/ medic, I worked several accidents involving car supports. Again, great information as always PF, but this one may save someone.
I agree. I use a scissor lift with a locking bar. Had same car raised on it over 2 years now non stop so I'm pretty confident in it now. But wouldn't hurt to but a couple jack stands under too
Always use jack stands, and don't get the cheapest you can find, get the most expensive you can find. Once it's up on stands, push hard on the car. If it falls off when you push it, you have terrible jack stands. And count yourself lucky you found out without getting crushed.
Your channel is representative of the idealistic positivity that people thought the internet would bring about, but never did. This is one of the last bastions of decent, honest content on the web. Never change, Project Farm :)
10-15years ago was peak TH-cam for decent content like this. Now it is largely dominated by AI created/narrated garbage, lowest denominator entertainment, Diddy videos and fake reviews by influencers. Leaves me feeling a bit lost if I am completely honest.
@@DESOUSAB You must be at a weird end of the "algorithm". I agree it changed about 5 years ago when they changed the layout. Now the recommendations suck but then you gotta find the "channels" you like and subscribe I guess.
After watching your jack stand test video, I took my set back to Harbor Freight (~8 yrs later) They had no problem honoring the recall of the dangerous set and replaced it for a better more expensive set for free. Harbor Freight owes you a big "thank you" for saving a life or two and for lessening the number of lawsuits !
I did the same, but they only gave me credit for what they were sold for at the last sale, so to get the safe ones I had to add $40, complete bs, they should have honored and replaced them at no charge.
@@DinDooIt I should've mentioned that the cashier wanted me to pay the balance but I didn't agree to it and asked to talk to the mgr. That's when they honored it.
I have the rhino ramps, I got a piece of low pile height carpet, and literally bolted it to the ramps. So, you drive up on the carpet first, and then there is no way for the ramp to slip whatsoever.
I learned the wet cloth trick when I needed something to use to keep a slippery cutting board in place while chopping veggies. I've since replaced that with a grippy rubber mat that doesn't have too much "squish" when applying pressure. (A pot holder with shallow spherical bumps in a grid pattern.)
I hate using ramps - always nervous about not stopping in time and driving off the front of them and slippage on the garage floor was always an issue with steel ramps. I would love it if all car lift products had to go through the same rigorous testing akin to what Todd did on this video - would definitely give me some peace of mind. Thanks again for another great video, Todd.
My dad made two solid wood ramps out of a crosstie. He used them for decades, gave them to me, and now I have used them for decades. They never slip, my low vehicles can use them, and they are super strong.
@@cultusgtiThey use Creosote on old railroad ties. -Cancerous to humans, -could try to seal that in with polyurethane, linseed oil -oxidizes to a hard polymer and will fill in the wood gaps. -Railroad ties are still a great idea.
I built a set of car ramps in high school metalworking class. I use them for about 20 years before I gave them to a friend. Recently I talk to him and he still uses them and they’re still fine. There are 40 years old. We put a lot of very heavy trucks and things on those ramps and they were just fine. They were made out of mild steel, 1 inch flat bar and mild steel 1 inch angle. Iron cut up well together with plywood runners. But for 68 bucks to buy one of those plastic ramps, Seems like a winner to me. Cheers from Tokyo.
A regular person working on their own cars for the few tasks they can do on their own barely uses a given ramp. As long as they are stored properly they can last decades.
Does anyone find it odd that many of these plastic brands are basically EXACTLY the same design/mold? From the height to the rubber stops, to even the molded traction design in the top. It's all the same! When shopping for things that are made in China, check around for this. Could save you quite a bit of money. Life pro tip - if you want to be a sketchy "business owner", you can also order mass quantities of garbage from China off of Alibaba (and other sources). They'll even put your name on it.
They could use different plastics. Personally, because I don’t trust China’s quality control, I bought Rhino Ramps because they are US made. They’ve worked well.
Usually that means that the 'cheaper' version of the product is a reject from the more reputable brand's factory, and the factory owner (who are distinct from the brand they are doing manufacturing for) is trying to reduce operating costs/recover capital investment. For instance, the plastic mix could be not-quite-right, or it failed some other quality compliance test, or the injection mould is worn out or damaged. There is no such thing as a free lunch. There's always some reason why it is cheaper.
@@acmhfmggru I agree with everything you say but will nitpick the use of "QA test". If it's a test, it's QC. QA is process design and improvement. QC is measurement.
They could be white label products (products that are manufactured generically; so they can be bought, branded, and sold by any company). China manufactures a lot of white label products. Most products you can buy from the amazon are white label products.
Wow, all lot of people would probably see this video as "drinking from a firehouse", but I love it. Nothing extraneous just information and data. Thanks for dedicating the time and money to test all these things. It really is a huge help for people making sure they are buying the highest quality products at the most affordable prices!
I have some steel ramps that were my dad’s and I inherited them. No stickers on them don’t know the brand but I’ve had F450s and Silverado 3500s on them on a very slippery garage floor and the rear tires actually spun on a 2500 before the ramps moved. I’ve never had them shift around or bend. Not sure where he got them but they’re solid. Probably made around the 60s or 70s.
I am with you. Also, its annoying when your in the store to get something and you don't have signal to see what Project Farm rated the best. Then you get home and check and the one you bought was junk so back to the store you go!
Started using an old area rug under the ramps to keep our steel ramps from moving forward and also digging into the blacktop. Works great and provides a nice place to work while under the car. Also keeps the floor clean. Use the rug on brake jobs as well. Just drag the rug covered with your tools to each corner. Very comfy on the knees and bottom! I'm using the driveway, so there is plenty of room for the rug. Also park the motorcycles in the center prior to work. Very comfortable indeed. A cut 2 ×4 at the start of the ramp will help with bumper clearance.
I save large pieces of thick cardboard for under car work. The smooth surface makes sliding around a lot easier when most of my vehicles won't fit my big frame under with a creeper..
@@diditbreak Same here. Been using cardboard for decades and got rid of my wheeled creeper long ago. For me, I didn’t like how the creeper reduces body to car clearance and makes it a little harder to reach your tools. Cardboard works better for sliding underneath and is easier to store. When it gets too dirty, toss it and get another.
Well presented and an excellent SAFETY service that you've presented! A number of car enthusiasts, and even mechanics, put total trust in car ramps and tend to take the potential dangers for granted. Always good to have someone watching whenever you drive a vehicle on/off these and similar ramps, regardless if they're metal or plastic.
Perfect lawsuit defense. Your honor, it was clear from our product name that a reasonable person should not trust their life or wellbeing to our product.
I’ve trusted those Pittsburgh for years. I saw awhile back a contractor weld additional support to my trailer hitch on my line truck. He used those ramps for that truck’s backend. Thanks for testing these and everything else!
I had a friend who was killed while working under a car while on ramps. He had the idiot owner started the car while it was in gear making the car lunge forward. I make it an absolute rule to take the keys out of the vehicles.
@dirtrider88 What if someone happens to come along and decides to steal your car? What happens if someone you know wants to borrow your car? There is no excuse for stupidity, and leaving keys in a car on ramps it the epitome of stupid. But, if you want to die, go right ahead. Don't blame anyone but yourself
I like the suspicious pause with the tractor on the HF steel. 😂 I think that suspense and pleasant surprise is part of the reason I'm such a fan of HF.
Same here, I do agree the SOBs slip WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much even with rough concrete and a FWD Honda helping them stay put. That being said I'm glad to know they'll at least still suspend the vehicle flawlessly once I DO have it up, lol
They all look the same , but have varying levels of performance, likely due to the grade of polyethylene used, the placement of rubber stoppers and the internal member thickness….so just because they are black and plastic they are not all the same
I have used same metal ramps in garage for 25 years. I have 6 foot 2x6 from wall to ramp to prevent slip and slide two 6X8 under ramp. Never a problem and wood is life insurance. Great video.
Loved this video. Between you, Mike Festiva, and a handful of other reviewers, I have been outfitting my garage and shop with what have proven to be the best entry level but high performing tools and supplies. Absolutely love that you don't do sponsored videos to eliminate any bias accusations.
It appears half the tools in any test came out of the same big factory in China. Our host is too polite to point it out and sometimes hard to prove. Except the ones with the same foundry marks.
If the drive wheels are going up the ramp, it's less of an issue. If the ramps aren't on drive wheels, the car is pushing them more, even when on the ramp.
Yea I've only used my ramps a handful of times, and I've never been taught to do this. Yet somehow, it was just natural for me to kick em in place before I drove up. It just felt right.
I been using same Rhino ramps for about 20+ years. I never had any problem except little slipping? Rhino ain't the best, but I feel good about supporting USA made products. Always thanks for your videos.
Bought mine in 2019, and they broke last week when I tried to do an oil change on my linclon Town car. They cracked at the landing pad right to the ground. I'm trying to find something better. The new ones are junk.
As always, thanks for the unbiased review! Before I purchase any type of tool, it’s standard for me to come here first to see the reviews. I don’t always purchase the “best” as many factors come into play for your particular situation. Best channel on TH-cam👍🏻
You mentioned not to use the brakes when loading a fwd car, but I find the opposite to be true. Gently applying the brake with your left foot and gently applying the accelerator with your right has worked well for me. It keeps the wheels from spinning, preventing the car from wanting to 'drag' the ramps under it. It also makes it easier to stop when at the top. I've used mostly metal orange ramps like the HF one featured here. Used on my concrete driveway. It's not smooth but has a grainy texture to it. I recently switched to low profile plastic ramps by Black Widow to accommodate my cars better and couldn't be happier. Never had issues with either slipping.
I couldn't agree more... with Fwd, Awd, and 4×4 vehicles, it definitely works better to drag the brakes a tiny bit with your left foot while accelerating slowly up the incline, and then you can just let off the gas pedal to stop!! Easy peasy, no slipping, spinning, or sliding!! Now, on the other hand, with Rwd vehicles, you don't want to touch the brakes until you reach the top of the incline and use very light acceleration to prevent spinning, slipping, and sliding!!
I agree. The most dangerous way to use ramps is to one-foot the process. Apply just enough preload to the brakes to have immediate control of things and two-foot it up/down the ramp. If anything unexpected happens you can stop it immediately.
@@clarkkent0 @ 7:25 He said "it's important to not use the brakes while climbing the ramps" and "I did not use the brakes". My contention is that it's imperative to use both feet and use the engine torque to overcome some slight brake drag in order to keep from spinning the wheels. FWD will always have some torque steer.
The safety pins weren't used when testing the VOWAGH ramps. Do you think that played a role in their weakness when jacked up? Either way, we have a set of them at work and they are kinda crappy. Many people have said that their home made ramps work best, and I honestly have to agree. For less that $100 and a few you tube videos for ideas, a safe set of ramps can be made that will last a lifetime, and they can be made for the specific vehicle, such as making them 4' long so the approach angle is shallow for lower vehicles, and they are less likely to squirt away when you drive up them. I know you do reviews these days, but how about taking a stab at a few DIY versions and critique them. I think a lot of people would appreciate it.
The way the metal had bent I doubt the safety pins would have really done much of a difference. I'm not saying they shouldn't be used, but I feel they are not enough to save the ramps from damage if the car is pushed side ways. DIY ramps is a tough subject. On one hand it can be interesting to see what can be done at a decent price and are simple enough for just about anyone to put together. On the other hand you know there will be someone who really shouldn't touch these things that will use the video to create a bastard version that fails at the least opportune moment causing harm to the user.
@blahorgaslisk7763 I can understand what you said. But most guys who are willing to put their cars on ramps are capable enough to build them right. At least I hope. But you make a solid point.
Commercial ramps are lighter and more compact than pretty much any DIY ramp. Very often space is an issue when storing the ramps. I can put my plastic ramps on hooks on the wall and get them out of the way in my very crowded 1 car garage without issue. I'd struggle with wooden ramps. Ramps should be used for short term work, not multiple day work. And generally I use mine on the driveway, which has rough concrete so the ramps won't slide, so it just isn't worth the extra effort to make my own. A tip to help prevent damage if you drive off the end, put a stack of wood ahead of the ramps, the car would just drop onto them. Something like a couple of 2x8x4 would do the trick handily.
@CitEnthusiast @CitEnthusiast All true, but many people have smooth concrete, and the problem Todd had is the problem most people have. Also, as I stated, most cars that are even slightly performance oriented are too low for any of those cheap plastic ramps. I stand by my suggestion... let's see a comparison of DI @CitEnthusiast All true, but many people have smooth concrete, and the problem Todd had is the problem most people have. Also, as I stated, most cars that are even slightly performance oriented are too low for any of those cheap plastic ramps. I stand by my suggestion... let's see a comparison of DIY ramps that are long enough for a Corvette to roll onto. Set a budget or use overall cost as a scorable condition, judge level of difficulty, etc. I don't think I'm alone as someone who has been checking out DIY versions on You Tube. Also considering a mid rise lift. Space isn't an issue, but height is.
I remember my brother in law when his harbor freight ramps failed. It was week of complaining. I cant feel my legs, and I need to go to the hospital. So annoying.
yeah i use RaceRamps too and they are by far way better than any used here, though I like the pumpjack ones that seem to give a lot of extra height. Seem heavy though.
@16:03 you’ll see prices. I bet he doesn’t want to blow $300 + dollars on ramps for your viewing pleasure to only destroy it. But buy a few cheap ones, make a video and the numbers go up. But to be fair, a lot of people use those cheap ones so it’s serves an audience.
@@unfilteredjamaican3478 what are you talking about he spends thousands of dollars on like 6 welders at a time. But also tests cheap things like stain remover. It evens out.
He makes roughly $8K a month from the channel and puts a tremendous amount of work into it. Don’t think the price of a pair of race ramps is going to stop him from buying a pair. Probably just didn’t know about them.
This guy just SAVED MY LIFE. I have the metal Petersen ramps (don't know where I bought them) and I've been using them for years. Unbelievable. They are going to the trash on Tuesday and I'm going for the Harbor Freight metal ramps. I don't like plastic because plastic performs well when it's new (like we saw in this video), but becomes brittle with time. Please give this guy a thumbs up and share his video. This is shocking. Thank you Project Farm for this amazing video. I will never get under a car with those ramps again. I can't believe I've been using them for years. God bless you. Your videos save lives.
lol don't throw them away, (the Horror Fraught ones ain't any better) just use jackstands in addition to your steel ramps. Drive up, set the brake, chock the wheels, throw the stands under for a safety, & go to work.
FYI, metal has fatigue over time as well, not to mention corrosion! Don't make the mistake of trusting metal more for no reason and putting more trust in metal than it deserves. You want to focus on build quality, whether it is plastic, metal or foam.
Yes. I was concerned about UV resistance too. It's very much an issue here where it's sunny so much. Even inside my shed, the light through the window has led to me going to pick up plastic things and just getting a handful of plastic debris.
I use Race Ramps sold by Summit. They’re made of a plastic foam material. Sounds crazy but they’re ultra strong and very light weight. I trust them. Expensive but worth it in my opinion.
Yeah it is crazy how much weight you can support when you maximize surface area. That's why I think a few cracked under the tractor test because a rib on the tread hit a weak spot.
I'm a huge fan of this channel. I absolutely 👍 love watching these products being tested properly. Best part for me is how the data is compiled and recorded on graphs. Absolutely 💯 one of the best TH-cam channels I watch.
I just recently upgraded from my 8 gallon Kobalt hot dog compressor to the Husky 20 gallon Silent air compressor. So far so good...but I don't know if I want to see how it performs next to others since I already bought it!!!
@@XterraRob my harbor freight 21 gallon is on its last leg. It’s deafening and rattles like crazy. I keep it in a corner away from me in case it detonates 😅
@@street_toyz I've had a harbor freight 21 gallon compressor for over 15 years now and it still works great. The tank pressure gauge probably never actually worked quite right, but other than that it's been perfect. I even painted a car with it although I had to go one panel at a time since it's still only a 21 gallon compressor, but paint turned out pretty good too as long as I took it slow.
exactly what i thought.. wobbling then like he did without the pins it was obvious what would happen. youd never wobble a car on normal bottle jacks for the same reason
I was looking for this comment. Even if its flimsy metal used in the construction. The pins should have been in place to see how it would actually behave.
I had a 3 1/2 ton steel floor jack collapse right after I lifted the rear of my GMC truck. I was just about to put 2 jack stands under the axle, then crash. It was a hydraulic failure, as if a seal let go. Don't even think of going under your vehicle without jack stands!
Absolutely! Actually NEVER trust hydraulics with your life, as they can fail at any time. Even the seals in a 50-ton jack can fail...always have something solid and static as a backup under things while using hydraulics. If the hydraulic device used has some sore of steel lock mechanism, use it!
@@TheReal1953 Agreed. That's why lifts have that clanking noise as they lift, even though they use the hydraulics/motors to lift there's a big safety latch in each post. Still terrifying to stand under.
you missed the ghetto nailed together 2X4 (2x3 and 2x6 are actually cheaper most of the time for board feet) fun math nerd time: semi trucks have a ground pressure near 1000 kpa (or tire inflation pressure as they are essentially the same value) most of your store bought pine will have a compressive strength of 3000kpa across the grain 33000kpa along it. Depending on how you arrange your boards you have a safety factor of 3 to 7 times. **for a semi truck** before they start to get dented up on top by the tire
From my studies here today, I have come to the conclusion that the best tool for the job is the Buick battle axe. Unrivaled in every metric. Very impressive!
Wood blocking is used everywhere around the globe when supporting large earth moving machinery. Perfect as an added safety precaution should a ramp/hydrauluc jack fail. Or as the primary way to support a vehicle.
That's what my Dad used... a couple six or so foot long 2x10s one bottom, one top, with stacked 2x4s between at intervals to make a good even ramp. Also one at the top at the end of the ramps so you know where to stop.
I've been using my rhino ramps for 5 years with all types of cars, the heaviest a 2015 sienna minivan, no problems my concrete surface is alot rougher so no slipping.
I had a friend that was convinced that two cinder blocks could hold up the weight of a 1974 Cadillac Coupe DeVille. He said the key is to put them with the openings facing up and down instead of having the tires on the flat sides of the blocks. Surprisingly, the 2x12 boards he was using as ramps held. Unsurprisingly the Cadillac with its massive 472 block crushed both cinder blocks to powder only seconds later. He decided to go buy some proper ramps after that.
C platform gm cars are really heavy 😆 I have two right now. Dry weight is like 4800 lbs. They are literally 3/4 ton trucks with a car body on them. Fully boxed frames, almost 10 inch axles, all of them came with iron big blocks and th400 trans. When I put mine on jack stands the stands will sink into asphalt considerably. I put light truck tires on mine, car tires fold when you corner lol.
Thanks for this video. Yes I had a car roll off the ramps once. I made two mistakes, 1) I had the ramps on a slightly inclined driveway going uphill adding to the incline and gravity working against me. 2) I didn't block/chock the the tires on the ground. I was replacing U-joints and the moment I removed the driveshaft it rolled down the ramps since the park lock was now disconnected from the wheels. Btw - I would say all those plastic ramps with the three ribbed slots are all the same except the name.
I have a metal set like the ones you tested but from the early 80s. Where the tire sits has a little deeper pocket. The only thing I don't like about the metal ones are they sink into the ground. Fantastic video!
I have a pair of ramps that were built using 10"X2" Steel channel, I block one end up with 4"x6" pieces, then wedge the wheels on the ground. Never had a problem with any unplanned movement, but still wish I had a pit to work in!
My dad has some galvanized steel raps that are well over 50 years old and yeah, those ramps are basically bulletproof. Only downsides to them are that they're too steep for modern cars, and they're extremely narrow and modern wheels go over the walls on them.
@@GrumpyIanI have a set that are at least 30 years old and are great for my heavy SUV. I completely trust them. The problem happened when my son's low profile car couldn't use them. Now we have two sets of ramps.
I have used one of those non-slip shower mats that have the suction cups on one side. I cut it in two to make 2 pieces and put it under the part of my ramp where the tire finally rests. It has NEVER slipped . Only used the shower mats because my wife didn't like them and was throwing them out. They work great !
I had several scary ramp experiences with a set of Rhino Ramps. They would constantly slip, no matter the surface. I figured the safest place for them was the trash & that’s where they went.
I was so surprised. I have been using my Rhino Ramps for many years now and never had a problem in any way, but I’ve always been suspicious of them. My vehicles are all wheel drive so I guess that’s how I avoided finding any issues. I always use stands and blocks for added safety. Time to use something else entirely!
@@ManjaroBlack I own the rhino ramps, and have sued them for over 5 years. Never had an issue with them. I have put rwd, 4wd, Fwd, cars/trucks/suvs on them and although they have a tendency to slip on smoother surfaces, they don't tip, or crush. They're made in the USA, so that is extremel yimportant, money leavoing our economy is a death knell.
If you are going to use them on concrete you need to put a piece of carpet under each one so the tire hits the carpet first and they will not move!It’s easiest to use them on sloping down hill ground!
I had a pair collapse under my Tundra. I can't remember the exact brand but they closely resembled those Pittsburgh ramps that you tested. I remember that they collapsed with a weight that was much below their stated capacity. Not trusting the commercial offerings anymore, I made my own ramps using 2x10s screwed together to make a stair-stepped design. Being solid wood, they could probably support 5 trucks. The downside is that they are HEAVY.
Please tell us What temperature were they used and stored at? Sunlight(UV) exposure? How old were they? We hear so many horror stories but no hard data.
I have both Pittsburg ramps, the steel and plastic. I believed the steel was superior in strength and would use them for heavy loads such as 3/4 ton p/u's and the plastic ramps for the autos. Your evaluation was a wakeup call for me. Thank you.
Scrap Framing lumber and nails is a lot less expensive, can be thrown away, and can be built in only a few minutes. But to be fair I don't travel with ramps so It's not a fair comparison
You will still be featuring tests with that old Buick 20 years from now. Those things seem to run forever. I suggest cooler testing. Which one keeps ice the longest.
I have to also defend the 2000 LeSabre I recently bought after comparing reliability, comfort, easy and cheap repairs anywhere it would have a problem when looking for a long distance road trip car. Built like a tank and perfect as an interstate cruiser. And on top of all that, it consistently gets 30 mpg on the highway. Not bad for a $2500 car with under 100k on the clock. Battleaxe, indeed.
I had an ‘87 Electra Park Ave “The Blue Bomb” with the 3800 I inherited in 95 and used as a commuter. I told myself I would buy a brand new car and use my 96 Camry as a commuter when it died. The Buick was still running on the original engine and trans when I sold it in 2021 with more than 570,000 miles on it. The Camry was in the junkyard at least 10 years by then.
1998 I bought plastic ramps when I lived in Oakfield Maine. They cracked and collapsed due to the cold. My air compressor plastic tires shattered too. Went steel after that! Thank you.
right I'm so paranoid, I use ramps as primary lift if I can, then jackstands, jack for extra support, and fuckit I'm throwing a wheel under there as well after I take it off. Maybe its overkill, but I am using at least three of these anytime I'm actually under the car. I would much rather be redundant than dead
I always spend a good amount of time making sure I'm safe under the car. I like a 3-point support in a triangular shape. Two jack stands behind the front wheels and leave my jack under the center below the engine. I release the pressure on the jack to make sure the jack stands can support the load by themselves and are stable. Then I pump the jack back up to again make contact with some pressure for assured contact.
I do the same 3-point system putting the jack under the engine support, I also upgraded from 2=ton jack stands to 3-ton. My safety was worth the extra money. Also with this setup I could remove the jack stands and use a Harbor Freight Wheel Dolly to remove and install my 70lb tires. TH-cam videos on doing this.
lol i used to do the same most times, i also got into just jacking the car up and putting 12 cocrete blocks with wood on top to support and stop sliding or movement
I have a problem with ramps slipping away on the garage floor, I like your idea of the wet t-shirt. I try to install jack stands under the car after it goes up the ramps, Better be too careful than have an accident and be killed by a car dropping on you. Thanks for the informative review.
@@hundredlives3910some will fix a leak...some claim they allow the water to be "wetter" which allows for heat to be transferred to the surface and then blown off.
Back in Jr. High, I decided to "help" my dad do an oil change on our beloved, then 10-year old 1964 Plymouth Valiant wagon. We had a pair of stamped-steel ramps. In order to not block the driveway, so my bitchy step-mom would be able to go shopping, I decided the side lawn would do the trick. Well, almost to my destination, the ramps slid to the side and the car came crashing down on them, bending the ramps beyond recognition. My dad was not pleased, but grateful I didn't start to work and slide under this dangerous situation. Mom threw a fit and I think she was more concerned with the dent in the side of the car, than my well-being. Ha! I got her by living to 64 and still going, while she's long been pushing up rutabagas. Side note: I wouldn't recommend any steel ramps which don't have a pair of horizontal bits welded in order to reinforce the ramps from buckling.
Same here. Those stamped ramps suck without the additional bracing. They'll bend on you in a second. I threw mine away. Dangerous MFers. Plastic ramps are ok, but I'm not getting under the car supported by ramps without stands anymore as a backup.
You Sir, are the Best TH-cam Channel out there with your detailed methodical testing and experiments. Thank you for helping all of us make better choices as consumers!
We drove off of a metal ramp like the Pittsburgh brand and hit the back of my motorcycle! I have the Pittsburgh plastic ramps you tested and I love them. They are great for low profile vehicles. I have used them on all of my vehicles including my F150 truck with no problems whatsoever. Great for the prices.
I will share one scare I had. I was under my SL500 replacing the motor mounts. I had stands under the car and under the motor I had my good old autozone jack.. So i have the motor raised up as far as i can get it and I am under there spinning out the mounts. All the sudden it seemed like things were getting tighter. I slid out from under the car just as the seal in the jack failed and the motor dropped about 6 inches at once. Once I cleaned out my pants. I went and bought more stands and brand new daytona heavy duty jack.
@@alro2434 naaa I will say Daytona and Heavy Duty.. I just did it again . see how easy it is? They sell more than that brand soo..again .. Compared to what I was using it is HD. Not that I asked for your opinion here ,but thank you for it anyhow. My story was in response to the author of the video asking for stories of close calls. It was Not a request for either validation or invalidation on my choice of products. have a nice day.
That's actually a real good idea with the T shirts! My dad has a similar set and always had to place 2x4s against a wall to hold them while driving up.
Just slowly creeping up a pair of ramps is always a scary experience! I much prefer using a lift and stands. I do have a story related to failure of equipment working on a jacked up car from when I was young and dumb though. Friend of mine wanted to rotate his tires. We gathered up 4 of those cheap scissor lifts meant for oh shit I have a flat tire and put the car in the air with just those and no jack stands. You know what happened. The car shifted a little while working and all 4 lifts gave out sending his wheeless car to the ground. Luckily no one got hurt but myself and 4 friends were left with broken oops I have a flat tire lifts. I learned that day to always use a jack stand. I know you've done videos on those crappy scissor lifts but maybe instead of a product review consider purposely showing what can happen when you do things the wrong way like young dumb me?
The hydraulic press channel and second channel specialize in doing unsafe things in a safe way. They have a reinforced concrete room for doing dangerous stuff indoors. They stay outside the room and watch experiments through expensive blast resistant windows. They have an extra layer of sacrificial bullet proof glass to protect those windows from getting scratched by moderate energy shrapnel. Their safety gear would not be affordable without the support of corporate partners. They don't do product reviews, so there isn't an overt conflict of interest. Although every episode on the main channel is implicitly an ad for the company that made their custom hydraulic press. They are an authorized dealer. Project Farm would lose its independence if it did something like that.
I carry a compact floor jack in the car so I don't have to use the supplied scissor jacks. Advantage is lifting from a control arm to change a tire the car doesn't have to be jacked as high to get wheel off the ground. I also have a chunk of heavy aluminum angle for a wheel chock.
Just bought the Pittsburgh Plastic ones at Harbor Freight. They're great. Unless you have a really smooth floor, you won't have a problem with slipping. I just gave them a nice hard shove under the tire and they didn't move.
@@ProjectFarm may I suggest adding another factor to this test and see how long they can handle the load before experiencing damage. For instance, going 5k lbs over the rating. And seeing if it holds for 3 hours?
A lot of people put down a cloth/carpeted type carpet runner under their ramps that's long enough that the wheels drive up on the runner first and then the ramp. Then the ramps don't move. Works great.
Seems that that plastic ramps that look identical are actually identical. Probably made in the same factory, just sold under different brands. The difference in failure load is probably because you placed press slightly different. At 15:15 it's visible that ramp shear off just next to the web, if you had placed press over the web the result would have been different.
I used to work in an injection moulding company as a material handler....all the plastic ones seem to use the same mould or come from the same factory but a lot depends on how the material is mixed. If too much black color is applied for instance it will weaken the plastic....using too much recycled plastic will do the same thing. The strength is also affected by how hot the plastic was when injected...cure time...mould temp etc. This is why for some identical ramps you will see some variation in testing. 😊
I got the pittsburgh plastic ramp a couple months back. Worked great when doing an oil change on my wrx. First time using ramps and they felt good and sturdy
I built a set from yellow pine 2x12 lumber. They’re heavy, but completely trustworthy. Plus they don’t slip at all, they’re 2 inches higher than any if the ones tested, here, and I made them long enough to accept any low clearance vehicle as there are several of these in the family. Anyway, thanks for the video.
@@davidhostetter7258 I just make the youngsters haul them out, since they are the ones with low-slung sports cars that can't use HF ramps, or any other store-bought ones for that matter.
I tried a few different ramps over the years and had many problems. About 20 years ago I made my first wooden ramps from left over pieces of lumber. These are 31” long, 7” wide, and 7” high. I used a wooden 2x4 as a step in the middle, in the up option. I have made 3 sets and they all work good and are solid. I roll up the ramp to keep them from sliding.
It would be nice to include in the test homemade wooden ramps. I'd like to see how DIY ramps hold up. Sure, there's variability, but a generic angled stack of wood would be fairly universal.
Makes me appreciate my really old-school metal ramps my father in law gave me. They have the support bracket pinning the ramp to the riser, and are really heavy!
A big thank you to everyone who suggested this topic! Here are the links to the products I reviewed. More details in the video description. Looking forward to reading your comments and video ideas!! Best regards and thank you, Todd
BiSupply: amzn.to/3M4FpIa
Liekumm: amzn.to/3M3S7ap
M Auto: amzn.to/3YMAuUa
Black Widow: amzn.to/4cpqhQt
Vowagh: amzn.to/3X3HxGt
RhinoRamp: amzn.to/3X5ZpRk
Eastwood: amzn.to/4fIcjft
Petersen: amzn.to/3yO32lh
MaxxHaul: amzn.to/3Z4ndGH
Pittsburgh Plastic and Steel: Available at Harbor Freight
Personally ive never tried ramps o a concrete floor. always dirt or gravel. i cant believe how much slipping ya got goin on ! Crazy! .. i have pretty old standard american steel ramps. maybe 30 years old now?. they all look sort of rusty at this point but have never shown signs of buckling or stress, (cars and small trucks only. no tractors)
Can you do air hoses in the future
How about a "keeping them honest" series where you test the exact same products from years ago to see if they still perform as well today. I believe they degrade in quality once they achieve a name for themselves.
What if you cut pieces of wood and inserted them into the bottom slots on the underside of the plastic ramps?
I would re do the test with the hydraulic ram. The actual contact area of a tire is very small. I would recreate the actual contact patch area for the force test. The plate used was far too big to simulate the actual tire load patch.
You missed my stack of 2x6 lumber nailed together.😅
As a structural material, wood is seriously underrated. It can support some insane compression loads for it's weight.
@@maj429 seriously, why isn't that an option?
@@christisking7778I believe its about its self weight. I have four 2x12 with various length nailed together for my truck. It’s quite heavy but no doubt it can hold tons of load.
a 4 by 4 grid of 4 by 4 (I think oak) is rated for 24,000 pounds
My go to
4 of the plastic ones used the exact same injection mold 🤣
I commented too soon 💀 5 ramps on 1 tool
Anything from China is going to be rebranded from the same factory 97% of the time.
I have the same set I bought at Sears 20+ years ago. Exact same mold! Still working fine with all my cars from 4X4 trucks, SUVs to economy cars.
@@adamk8376 yep. used to work for two very well known aftermarket automotive companies, and 90% of the products were just rebranded chinese stuff
@@donwyoming1936aslong as it lives inside it will last forever
On behalf of everyone who benefits from your excellent videos, and from the bottom of my heart, thank you.
You are welcome! Thanks for supporting the channel! I really appreciate it!
@@ProjectFarmcan you do a mold resistant paint review? W/ Additives /process 😷
Pahleeeeeaaaaase 🚽🚿🪒🦠☢️
You’re the best 💯 🙏❤️🪽
I had a quite scary experience with plastic ramps. I was at a VW meetup, and some friends and I were looking at someone's Jetta. A friend pulled the car up onto ramps, and another friend climbed under the car to look at the turbo linkage. We asked the owner to get in the car and start it up so I could use a scan tool to do an output test on the turbo.
My friend had parked the car in reverse. The owner pushed the clutch to start the car, then without checking if it was in gear released the clutch. The ramps shot out, and the car went straight down on my friend. His chest was holding up the oil pan. Fortunately there were a lot of us standing around and in a moment we'd grabbed the fenders and picked the car up. Another attendee was a paramedic, gave my friend a good check over, and he only had some bruised ribs. A great outcome for a scary situation!!
Wow, that would be scary. Glad you were able to react that fast and all ended well!
@@compu85 Djeeezusss..
Who parks their car in reverse
@PrjctWRX My smart. I always put it in reverse, it's like Park.
But not on a ramp.
@@RealButcher I always put it in first. I thought that was the universal rule for manuals.
I had as close of a call as you can have - Not with ramps but a jack on the side of the road. I was under the car with a jack and piece of 4x4 wedged under (I thought) as back up. The hydraulic seal on the jack gave out, the car came down kicked the wood out and the car landed on my left shoulder. Fractured my left shoulder blade, compound fracture my clavicle, broke 4 ribs on my right side, punctured right lung and the subframe cut open my forehead. 3 people lifted the car just enough for me to slide out. *PLEASE take ANY & ALL PRECAUTIONS possible and be SUPER CAREFUL while climbing under any car/truck. I BARELY escaped with my life. If you do not feel 100% safe don't do it*
Man, you're lucky to be alive.
That's why you should allways place the wheel under the car while you're working on it, if it were to fall of the jack, the wheel would prevent the car crushing you.
Exactly. Whenever doing something dangerous like that, I always think in terms of "what's the worst thing that could happen?" Instead of "that should be good enough." Eliminate or safeguard against all the worst case scenarios I can think of, before I'm satisfied that it's safe.
@@KayoMichiels - Agree, plus to make it worse, I'm a mechanic for 30yrs+, It was supposed to be a quick roadside repair and I was being stupid. I took things for granted and it almost cost me my life.
Good precautions. I might add that you should position yourself as far away from the car underside as possible, just in case it does slip or move-John in Texas
Ever watch one of these when you had already bought one of the products and you're just hoping it holds up somewhat well
Yeah... did not do too great. lol
Yep, every Ryobi tool. lol
Every time🤣🤣
Yep.
@@frijoli9579 big same
When my dad taught me how to work on cars 25 years ago, he said you always use two types of support. So if you drive up a ramp, put a jack stand or two. That way if something slips / collapses / etc, you have enough time to get out.
Thanks for sharing.
The more branded EU/UK models tell you use chocks on the other wheels, though they make you buy them separately.
These all had two things in common made in China and solidified the fact that I’m sticking with my hydraulic jack and jackstands! Another great PF review! Wait that is three things!!
also if you take off the tires pput them under the vehicle if a low rider as if it does fall those tires may save your life sure youll need new rims but better them than your ribcage
that's right, it's always good to have some "insurance"
Great suggestion by fans and excellent review. My cousin died under a car when the jacks slipped. Same possibly with any ramp. I would ALWAYS use two types of support in case the first fails, slips etc. As a career firefighter/ medic, I worked several accidents involving car supports. Again, great information as always PF, but this one may save someone.
Thanks!
I agree. I use a scissor lift with a locking bar. Had same car raised on it over 2 years now non stop so I'm pretty confident in it now. But wouldn't hurt to but a couple jack stands under too
Always use jack stands, and don't get the cheapest you can find, get the most expensive you can find. Once it's up on stands, push hard on the car. If it falls off when you push it, you have terrible jack stands. And count yourself lucky you found out without getting crushed.
I always have the jack with good jack stands in there and if the tires need to come off I’ll throw them in there too. 😂. You only get one life!
Black Widow has to be one of the worst names ever for a safety product 😅
Only widowmaker would be worse.
Wonder why my wife insisted I use this brand… hmmm
Martin Luther King wife was a Black Widow.
I like grimm reaper!
@@davidweaver2156 At least it's not Widow Maker! 😂
Your channel is representative of the idealistic positivity that people thought the internet would bring about, but never did. This is one of the last bastions of decent, honest content on the web. Never change, Project Farm :)
You haven’t watched the Torque Test channel then.
10-15years ago was peak TH-cam for decent content like this. Now it is largely dominated by AI created/narrated garbage, lowest denominator entertainment, Diddy videos and fake reviews by influencers. Leaves me feeling a bit lost if I am completely honest.
Thanks!
There's still tonnes of great content and positivity. It's just that there's even more garbage you have to wade through to find it.
@@DESOUSAB You must be at a weird end of the "algorithm". I agree it changed about 5 years ago when they changed the layout. Now the recommendations suck but then you gotta find the "channels" you like and subscribe I guess.
After watching your jack stand test video, I took my set back to Harbor Freight (~8 yrs later)
They had no problem honoring the recall of the dangerous set and replaced it for a better more expensive set for free.
Harbor Freight owes you a big "thank you" for saving a life or two and for lessening the number of lawsuits !
I did the same, but they only gave me credit for what they were sold for at the last sale, so to get the safe ones I had to add $40, complete bs, they should have honored and replaced them at no charge.
@@DinDooIt I should've mentioned that the cashier wanted me to pay the balance but I didn't agree to it and asked to talk to the mgr. That's when they honored it.
@@ihim7380 Ahh, thnx, I don't feel like I got ripped as much now.
in hungary you would get yelled at and possibly kicked in the stomach for wanting to return something even after 2 years
@@uiopuiop3472this was a safety recall, you were supposed to bring them back.
bro, you're gonna make me cry.
you review everything a man needs in this world!!! THANK YOU
You are welcome!
I have the rhino ramps, I got a piece of low pile height carpet, and literally bolted it to the ramps. So, you drive up on the carpet first, and then there is no way for the ramp to slip whatsoever.
Thank you for sharing!
That's actually a really good idea.
I have them too. Fantastic idea! Thanks
Old rubber floor mats also work well
@@zdc590 Yeah, I've had a set of Rhino ramps I got about 8 years ago, but I used them outside in my front year. No slippage at all.
For some reason my wife wants to know the most dangerous one, mentioned something about Christmas gifts
Don't eat any chocolates she gives you.
Well, there IS one named black widow...
You better get her a GoPro for Christmas for the thumbs up’s/ likes
Black Widow
Well since shes about to be single, send her my way. :p
We never know damp cloth can add SO MUCH floor traction. Every Project Farm video educates & saves lives in this case. Thank you Sir ! 👍
Funny how he always uses T-shirts, instead of towels.
Thank you!
@@ProjectFarm Is that a product "placement"? Should we buy more tee shirts? BTW ramps on lawns -am I the only one?
Didn’t either..wow learn something all the time..
I learned the wet cloth trick when I needed something to use to keep a slippery cutting board in place while chopping veggies.
I've since replaced that with a grippy rubber mat that doesn't have too much "squish" when applying pressure. (A pot holder with shallow spherical bumps in a grid pattern.)
I hate using ramps - always nervous about not stopping in time and driving off the front of them and slippage on the garage floor was always an issue with steel ramps.
I would love it if all car lift products had to go through the same rigorous testing akin to what Todd did on this video - would definitely give me some peace of mind.
Thanks again for another great video, Todd.
You are welcome!
My dad made two solid wood ramps out of a crosstie. He used them for decades, gave them to me, and now I have used them for decades. They never slip, my low vehicles can use them, and they are super strong.
I too have 2 wooden ramps, that my dad made, in my garage. I'm 55, and they are older than I am.
The used oil keeps the woodworm out 😂
@@cultusgtiThey use Creosote on old railroad ties. -Cancerous to humans, -could try to seal that in with polyurethane, linseed oil -oxidizes to a hard polymer and will fill in the wood gaps.
-Railroad ties are still a great idea.
I built a set of car ramps in high school metalworking class. I use them for about 20 years before I gave them to a friend. Recently I talk to him and he still uses them and they’re still fine. There are 40 years old. We put a lot of very heavy trucks and things on those ramps and they were just fine. They were made out of mild steel, 1 inch flat bar and mild steel 1 inch angle. Iron cut up well together with plywood runners. But for 68 bucks to buy one of those plastic ramps, Seems like a winner to me. Cheers from Tokyo.
Thanks for sharing.
One inch steel. Yeah.. that must have crazy load capacity
A regular person working on their own cars for the few tasks they can do on their own barely uses a given ramp. As long as they are stored properly they can last decades.
Does anyone find it odd that many of these plastic brands are basically EXACTLY the same design/mold? From the height to the rubber stops, to even the molded traction design in the top. It's all the same!
When shopping for things that are made in China, check around for this. Could save you quite a bit of money.
Life pro tip - if you want to be a sketchy "business owner", you can also order mass quantities of garbage from China off of Alibaba (and other sources). They'll even put your name on it.
They could use different plastics. Personally, because I don’t trust China’s quality control, I bought Rhino Ramps because they are US made. They’ve worked well.
maybe the same mold, but who says what goes into the mold is the same?
Usually that means that the 'cheaper' version of the product is a reject from the more reputable brand's factory, and the factory owner (who are distinct from the brand they are doing manufacturing for) is trying to reduce operating costs/recover capital investment. For instance, the plastic mix could be not-quite-right, or it failed some other quality compliance test, or the injection mould is worn out or damaged. There is no such thing as a free lunch. There's always some reason why it is cheaper.
@@acmhfmggru I agree with everything you say but will nitpick the use of "QA test". If it's a test, it's QC. QA is process design and improvement. QC is measurement.
They could be white label products (products that are manufactured generically; so they can be bought, branded, and sold by any company). China manufactures a lot of white label products. Most products you can buy from the amazon are white label products.
Wow, all lot of people would probably see this video as "drinking from a firehouse", but I love it. Nothing extraneous just information and data. Thanks for dedicating the time and money to test all these things. It really is a huge help for people making sure they are buying the highest quality products at the most affordable prices!
Thanks!
I have the Rhino ramps. I use them on a rough concrete driveway. Work perfectly.
Same
I have to 16000 lbs capacity Rhino ramps and use them on asphalt, no problems so far.
Same here, had them for years. They were like $30 shipped from wal mart
I have some steel ramps that were my dad’s and I inherited them. No stickers on them don’t know the brand but I’ve had F450s and Silverado 3500s on them on a very slippery garage floor and the rear tires actually spun on a 2500 before the ramps moved. I’ve never had them shift around or bend. Not sure where he got them but they’re solid. Probably made around the 60s or 70s.
They also have some plastic extenders that go on them for low cars because he used to put a Pontiac Firebird on them
Am I the only one that when I see a new ProjectFarm video I think:
"Oh crap. What do I have to replace immediately now?"
I am with you. Also, its annoying when your in the store to get something and you don't have signal to see what Project Farm rated the best. Then you get home and check and the one you bought was junk so back to the store you go!
I watch these and usually find that I make the right choices.
@@OddBallPerformance same here
I got the Pittsburgh plastics, I used them often for oil changes, much safer than jack stands. Luckily mine were #1.
Don't buy anything till you check out all his videos.
Started using an old area rug under the ramps to keep our steel ramps from moving forward and also digging into the blacktop. Works great and provides a nice place to work while under the car. Also keeps the floor clean. Use the rug on brake jobs as well. Just drag the rug covered with your tools to each corner. Very comfy on the knees and bottom! I'm using the driveway, so there is plenty of room for the rug. Also park the motorcycles in the center prior to work. Very comfortable indeed. A cut 2 ×4 at the start of the ramp will help with bumper clearance.
I save large pieces of thick cardboard for under car work. The smooth surface makes sliding around a lot easier when most of my vehicles won't fit my big frame under with a creeper..
@@diditbreak
Same here. Been using cardboard for decades and got rid of my wheeled creeper long ago. For me, I didn’t like how the creeper reduces body to car clearance and makes it a little harder to reach your tools. Cardboard works better for sliding underneath and is easier to store. When it gets too dirty, toss it and get another.
Well presented and an excellent SAFETY service that you've presented! A number of car enthusiasts, and even mechanics, put total trust in car ramps and tend to take the potential dangers for granted. Always good to have someone watching whenever you drive a vehicle on/off these and similar ramps, regardless if they're metal or plastic.
Thanks!
I suppose you name a car ramp a Black Widow which is one degree better than Death Trap
a little late it's a top comment i noticed but good thinking
I like my Hobo Spider ramps!
Perfect lawsuit defense. Your honor, it was clear from our product name that a reasonable person should not trust their life or wellbeing to our product.
you fell off bro
Squish-U brand ramps, because wheels squish and there is a U to hold them in place.
I’ve trusted those Pittsburgh for years. I saw awhile back a contractor weld additional support to my trailer hitch on my line truck. He used those ramps for that truck’s backend. Thanks for testing these and everything else!
I had a friend who was killed while working under a car while on ramps. He had the idiot owner started the car while it was in gear making the car lunge forward. I make it an absolute rule to take the keys out of the vehicles.
Presses X for Doubt. No vehicle made in the last 50 years will start while in gear.
i live by my self, i think ill be fine with the key in the car.
💀
@dirtrider88 What if someone happens to come along and decides to steal your car? What happens if someone you know wants to borrow your car? There is no excuse for stupidity, and leaving keys in a car on ramps it the epitome of stupid. But, if you want to die, go right ahead. Don't blame anyone but yourself
@@ImpendingJokeralmost every manual transmission will
I like the suspicious pause with the tractor on the HF steel. 😂 I think that suspense and pleasant surprise is part of the reason I'm such a fan of HF.
Thanks for sharing!
I own the Rinos and have had zero issues with them. Most of the plastic Chinese ramps look like they were made at the same factory on the same line.
Thank you for sharing!
Same here, I do agree the SOBs slip WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much even with rough concrete and a FWD Honda helping them stay put. That being said I'm glad to know they'll at least still suspend the vehicle flawlessly once I DO have it up, lol
I’ll take my Pittsburg over the rinos any day
My Rhinos have been great for 10+ years, used on small SUV or sports cars.
Same! On anything other than flat concrete they're just fine. I've used them on FWD, RWD, 4WD vehicles with no problems, sloped driveway or otherwise!
Is it just me or do most of those plastic MIC ramps look exactly the same?
I was thinking the same thing. Some OEM over in China is selling them to a bunch of sub-brands that are private label licensing them.
My Sears ramps from 20+ years ago are from the same mold!
They are exactly the same and probably made in the same factory just a different brand and packaging
They all look the same , but have varying levels of performance, likely due to the grade of polyethylene used, the placement of rubber stoppers and the internal member thickness….so just because they are black and plastic they are not all the same
Well. Ramps tend to have the same shape... as a square ramp wouldn't work? lol
I have used same metal ramps in garage for 25 years. I have 6 foot 2x6 from wall to ramp to prevent slip and slide two 6X8 under ramp. Never a problem and wood is life insurance. Great video.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Loved this video. Between you, Mike Festiva, and a handful of other reviewers, I have been outfitting my garage and shop with what have proven to be the best entry level but high performing tools and supplies. Absolutely love that you don't do sponsored videos to eliminate any bias accusations.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I think almost all plastic ramps have same manufacture they just selling them under different brands
Thanks for the feedback.
Ummm…same with most anything on Amazon.
It appears half the tools in any test
came out of the same big factory in China.
Our host is too polite to point it out and
sometimes hard to prove. Except the ones
with the same foundry marks.
The Rhino Ramps claim to be made in the USA.
Yes, it's called private label. Same product, different brand
I find it's important to put the ramps against the tire, then give 'em a little kick to lock 'em in place - then they don't slip when you drive up
If the drive wheels are going up the ramp, it's less of an issue. If the ramps aren't on drive wheels, the car is pushing them more, even when on the ramp.
Exactly. A no brainer
Yea I've only used my ramps a handful of times, and I've never been taught to do this. Yet somehow, it was just natural for me to kick em in place before I drove up. It just felt right.
I do that and also do not try to use on dressed concrete.
@@johnwilliams7922 If you can afford polished concrete floors you can afford a lift lol
I been using same Rhino ramps for about 20+ years. I never had any problem except little slipping? Rhino ain't the best, but I feel good about supporting USA made products. Always thanks for your videos.
Same. But my 2004 vintage Rhino ramps are way better made than these
Bought mine in 2019, and they broke last week when I tried to do an oil change on my linclon Town car. They cracked at the landing pad right to the ground. I'm trying to find something better. The new ones are junk.
As always, thanks for the unbiased review! Before I purchase any type of tool, it’s standard for me to come here first to see the reviews. I don’t always purchase the “best” as many factors come into play for your particular situation. Best channel on TH-cam👍🏻
Thanks and you are welcome!
You mentioned not to use the brakes when loading a fwd car, but I find the opposite to be true. Gently applying the brake with your left foot and gently applying the accelerator with your right has worked well for me. It keeps the wheels from spinning, preventing the car from wanting to 'drag' the ramps under it. It also makes it easier to stop when at the top.
I've used mostly metal orange ramps like the HF one featured here. Used on my concrete driveway. It's not smooth but has a grainy texture to it. I recently switched to low profile plastic ramps by Black Widow to accommodate my cars better and couldn't be happier. Never had issues with either slipping.
I couldn't agree more... with Fwd, Awd, and 4×4 vehicles, it definitely works better to drag the brakes a tiny bit with your left foot while accelerating slowly up the incline, and then you can just let off the gas pedal to stop!! Easy peasy, no slipping, spinning, or sliding!! Now, on the other hand, with Rwd vehicles, you don't want to touch the brakes until you reach the top of the incline and use very light acceleration to prevent spinning, slipping, and sliding!!
I agree. The most dangerous way to use ramps is to one-foot the process. Apply just enough preload to the brakes to have immediate control of things and two-foot it up/down the ramp. If anything unexpected happens you can stop it immediately.
He said DO use the brakes- maybe you heard it wrong
@@clarkkent0 Ah. I think so. Makes more sense 😆
@@clarkkent0 @ 7:25 He said "it's important to not use the brakes while climbing the ramps" and "I did not use the brakes".
My contention is that it's imperative to use both feet and use the engine torque to overcome some slight brake drag in order to keep from spinning the wheels. FWD will always have some torque steer.
The safety pins weren't used when testing the VOWAGH ramps. Do you think that played a role in their weakness when jacked up? Either way, we have a set of them at work and they are kinda crappy. Many people have said that their home made ramps work best, and I honestly have to agree. For less that $100 and a few you tube videos for ideas, a safe set of ramps can be made that will last a lifetime, and they can be made for the specific vehicle, such as making them 4' long so the approach angle is shallow for lower vehicles, and they are less likely to squirt away when you drive up them. I know you do reviews these days, but how about taking a stab at a few DIY versions and critique them. I think a lot of people would appreciate it.
The way the metal had bent I doubt the safety pins would have really done much of a difference. I'm not saying they shouldn't be used, but I feel they are not enough to save the ramps from damage if the car is pushed side ways.
DIY ramps is a tough subject. On one hand it can be interesting to see what can be done at a decent price and are simple enough for just about anyone to put together. On the other hand you know there will be someone who really shouldn't touch these things that will use the video to create a bastard version that fails at the least opportune moment causing harm to the user.
@blahorgaslisk7763 I can understand what you said. But most guys who are willing to put their cars on ramps are capable enough to build them right. At least I hope. But you make a solid point.
Commercial ramps are lighter and more compact than pretty much any DIY ramp. Very often space is an issue when storing the ramps. I can put my plastic ramps on hooks on the wall and get them out of the way in my very crowded 1 car garage without issue. I'd struggle with wooden ramps. Ramps should be used for short term work, not multiple day work. And generally I use mine on the driveway, which has rough concrete so the ramps won't slide, so it just isn't worth the extra effort to make my own.
A tip to help prevent damage if you drive off the end, put a stack of wood ahead of the ramps, the car would just drop onto them. Something like a couple of 2x8x4 would do the trick handily.
@CitEnthusiast @CitEnthusiast All true, but many people have smooth concrete, and the problem Todd had is the problem most people have. Also, as I stated, most cars that are even slightly performance oriented are too low for any of those cheap plastic ramps. I stand by my suggestion... let's see a comparison of DI @CitEnthusiast All true, but many people have smooth concrete, and the problem Todd had is the problem most people have. Also, as I stated, most cars that are even slightly performance oriented are too low for any of those cheap plastic ramps. I stand by my suggestion... let's see a comparison of DIY ramps that are long enough for a Corvette to roll onto. Set a budget or use overall cost as a scorable condition, judge level of difficulty, etc. I don't think I'm alone as someone who has been checking out DIY versions on You Tube. Also considering a mid rise lift. Space isn't an issue, but height is.
They seem like a great concept, let down by a poorly engineered design and terribly shoddy construction.
I remember my brother in law when his harbor freight ramps failed. It was week of complaining. I cant feel my legs, and I need to go to the hospital. So annoying.
😂😅
Brother-in-laws always do that... But who else will work under a set of Black Widows?
After a week when the complaints stopped, did you finally lift the car off of him?
Did PF test ear plugs already?
I have harbor freight steel ramps , but it for the Toyota corolla only.... no trucks
Great video. My favorite ramps are 40 years old. They're two railroad ties cut on a slant with a chain saw. They've never failed.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
Race ramps would have been great to see as the expensive ramps
yeah i use RaceRamps too and they are by far way better than any used here, though I like the pumpjack ones that seem to give a lot of extra height. Seem heavy though.
@16:03 you’ll see prices. I bet he doesn’t want to blow $300 + dollars on ramps for your viewing pleasure to only destroy it. But buy a few cheap ones, make a video and the numbers go up. But to be fair, a lot of people use those cheap ones so it’s serves an audience.
@@unfilteredjamaican3478 what are you talking about he spends thousands of dollars on like 6 welders at a time. But also tests cheap things like stain remover. It evens out.
@@artic9514 are we talking about welders or ramps here
He makes roughly $8K a month from the channel and puts a tremendous amount of work into it. Don’t think the price of a pair of race ramps is going to stop him from buying a pair. Probably just didn’t know about them.
This guy just SAVED MY LIFE. I have the metal Petersen ramps (don't know where I bought them) and I've been using them for years. Unbelievable. They are going to the trash on Tuesday and I'm going for the Harbor Freight metal ramps. I don't like plastic because plastic performs well when it's new (like we saw in this video), but becomes brittle with time. Please give this guy a thumbs up and share his video. This is shocking. Thank you Project Farm for this amazing video. I will never get under a car with those ramps again. I can't believe I've been using them for years. God bless you. Your videos save lives.
lol don't throw them away, (the Horror Fraught ones ain't any better) just use jackstands in addition to your steel ramps. Drive up, set the brake, chock the wheels, throw the stands under for a safety, & go to work.
Buddy, keep using them. They work unless you put 5x rated load.
FYI, metal has fatigue over time as well, not to mention corrosion! Don't make the mistake of trusting metal more for no reason and putting more trust in metal than it deserves. You want to focus on build quality, whether it is plastic, metal or foam.
Yes. I was concerned about UV resistance too. It's very much an issue here where it's sunny so much. Even inside my shed, the light through the window has led to me going to pick up plastic things and just getting a handful of plastic debris.
They were fine, unless you are parking a tractor on them.
I use Race Ramps sold by Summit. They’re made of a plastic foam material. Sounds crazy but they’re ultra strong and very light weight. I trust them. Expensive but worth it in my opinion.
Yeah it is crazy how much weight you can support when you maximize surface area. That's why I think a few cracked under the tractor test because a rib on the tread hit a weak spot.
Indeed and they don’t slip.
I'm a huge fan of this channel. I absolutely 👍 love watching these products being tested properly. Best part for me is how the data is compiled and recorded on graphs. Absolutely 💯 one of the best TH-cam channels I watch.
Thanks so much!
I’m in the market for a new air compressor. How about a hobbyist air compressor comparison?? 20 ish gallon range.
Run this up guys!
Thanks for the suggestion.
I just recently upgraded from my 8 gallon Kobalt hot dog compressor to the Husky 20 gallon Silent air compressor. So far so good...but I don't know if I want to see how it performs next to others since I already bought it!!!
Ooh this please
@@XterraRob my harbor freight 21 gallon is on its last leg. It’s deafening and rattles like crazy. I keep it in a corner away from me in case it detonates 😅
@@street_toyz I've had a harbor freight 21 gallon compressor for over 15 years now and it still works great. The tank pressure gauge probably never actually worked quite right, but other than that it's been perfect. I even painted a car with it although I had to go one panel at a time since it's still only a 21 gallon compressor, but paint turned out pretty good too as long as I took it slow.
The same guy that named the ramp "Black Widow" named airports "Terminals".
😂😂
A terminus is the end of a journey, A destination.
Airports and terminals are two different things
@@mrmicro22for half the people it’s the start of a journey
Final Destintionesque.
You didn't use the pins in the hydraulic ramps at 10:40.
exactly what i thought.. wobbling then like he did without the pins it was obvious what would happen. youd never wobble a car on normal bottle jacks for the same reason
I was looking for this comment. Even if its flimsy metal used in the construction. The pins should have been in place to see how it would actually behave.
The, "snap, crackle, and pop", is the jacks piston rubbing against the lift plate to straiten itself.
Looking at it worst case scenario though if you put your car up there, forgot the pins, and wobbled it, looks like you'd be okay if a little spooked
You have the nerve to stick your hand in there? It won't grow back.
Been watching your videos for years. You're just as great now as you were back when I started watching. Thank you.
Thanks so much!
I had a 3 1/2 ton steel floor jack collapse right after I lifted the rear of my GMC truck. I was just about to put 2 jack stands under the axle, then crash. It was a hydraulic failure, as if a seal let go. Don't even think of going under your vehicle without jack stands!
Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely! Actually NEVER trust hydraulics with your life, as they can fail at any time. Even the seals in a 50-ton jack can fail...always have something solid and static as a backup under things while using hydraulics. If the hydraulic device used has some sore of steel lock mechanism, use it!
@@TheReal1953 Agreed. That's why lifts have that clanking noise as they lift, even though they use the hydraulics/motors to lift there's a big safety latch in each post. Still terrifying to stand under.
I had a old aircraft hydraulic jack's o' rings fail when jacking up the landing gear tire.
I don't! In fact I would likely use 3 methods and chocks because of Earthquake-Country paranoia
you missed the ghetto nailed together 2X4 (2x3 and 2x6 are actually cheaper most of the time for board feet)
fun math nerd time:
semi trucks have a ground pressure near 1000 kpa (or tire inflation pressure as they are essentially the same value) most of your store bought pine will have a compressive strength of 3000kpa across the grain 33000kpa along it. Depending on how you arrange your boards you have a safety factor of 3 to 7 times. **for a semi truck** before they start to get dented up on top by the tire
Nailed together?
Ghetto Nailed Together. 🤣🤣🤣
Hey those work. My dad built a set out of 2"x10" scrap lumber... Worked great.😎
Although they might be Getto, I have more faith in a ramp made of 2x8 than the ramps shown today.
Working on golf carts I have stacked a few 2x6 chunks on top of each other without even nailing them together it still worked.
5 PCs 2x10's 55" long thru bolted make the best ramps. I've had them for 30 years now
From my studies here today, I have come to the conclusion that the best tool for the job is the Buick battle axe. Unrivaled in every metric. Very impressive!
I only use stair stepped 2x6 boards. 3 or 4 high. Weight rating is 30 tons!
Wood blocking is used everywhere around the globe when supporting large earth moving machinery. Perfect as an added safety precaution should a ramp/hydrauluc jack fail. Or as the primary way to support a vehicle.
That's what my Dad used... a couple six or so foot long 2x10s one bottom, one top, with stacked 2x4s between at intervals to make a good even ramp. Also one at the top at the end of the ramps so you know where to stop.
Nothing beats solid wood.
I use 2x6 brown wood ramps, about 4.5" high for my RV that weighs around 15 to 17 tons.
That's what she said...@@narancs5
I've been using my rhino ramps for 5 years with all types of cars, the heaviest a 2015 sienna minivan, no problems my concrete surface is alot rougher so no slipping.
I have an asphalt driveway and have had zero issues with my Rhino Ramps. I’ll take Made in USA any day.
I put my F150, Enclave, and Prius on them. No issues at all, but use jack stands always as a backup.
I had a friend that was convinced that two cinder blocks could hold up the weight of a 1974 Cadillac Coupe DeVille. He said the key is to put them with the openings facing up and down instead of having the tires on the flat sides of the blocks. Surprisingly, the 2x12 boards he was using as ramps held. Unsurprisingly the Cadillac with its massive 472 block crushed both cinder blocks to powder only seconds later. He decided to go buy some proper ramps after that.
C platform gm cars are really heavy 😆 I have two right now. Dry weight is like 4800 lbs. They are literally 3/4 ton trucks with a car body on them. Fully boxed frames, almost 10 inch axles, all of them came with iron big blocks and th400 trans. When I put mine on jack stands the stands will sink into asphalt considerably. I put light truck tires on mine, car tires fold when you corner lol.
We all have that one friend😂
Thanks for sharing. I have been using the Pittsburg ramps for my 1970 Deville and they held up well. However, I always use jack stands as a backup.
That was my first car. 8.5 MPG city, 20 hwy. LOL
@@greendryerlint Your first car was a nissan v6?
Thanks for this video. Yes I had a car roll off the ramps once. I made two mistakes, 1) I had the ramps on a slightly inclined driveway going uphill adding to the incline and gravity working against me. 2) I didn't block/chock the the tires on the ground. I was replacing U-joints and the moment I removed the driveshaft it rolled down the ramps since the park lock was now disconnected from the wheels.
Btw - I would say all those plastic ramps with the three ribbed slots are all the same except the name.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I have a metal set like the ones you tested but from the early 80s. Where the tire sits has a little deeper pocket. The only thing I don't like about the metal ones are they sink into the ground. Fantastic video!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
My old steel ramps similar to to Vowagh without the jacks can probably beat most of these. They are over 40 years old and as good as new.
I have a pair of ramps that were built using 10"X2" Steel channel, I block one end up with 4"x6" pieces, then wedge the wheels on the ground. Never had a problem with any unplanned movement, but still wish I had a pit to work in!
Thanks for sharing.
My dad has some galvanized steel raps that are well over 50 years old and yeah, those ramps are basically bulletproof. Only downsides to them are that they're too steep for modern cars, and they're extremely narrow and modern wheels go over the walls on them.
@@GrumpyIanI have a set that are at least 30 years old and are great for my heavy SUV. I completely trust them. The problem happened when my son's low profile car couldn't use them. Now we have two sets of ramps.
@@JimLambier I can't drive up the ramps forward but I can reverse up them. Then I just jack the front up if needed.
I built ramps out of 2X12's for my 2011 RAM 1500.....no slipping and NO chance of crushing ! ! ! !
Great testing as always ! ! ! ! 💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I have used one of those non-slip shower mats that have the suction cups on one side. I cut it in two to make 2 pieces and put it under the part of my ramp where the tire finally rests. It has NEVER slipped . Only used the shower mats because my wife didn't like them and was throwing them out. They work great !
Thanks for sharing.
I had several scary ramp experiences with a set of Rhino Ramps. They would constantly slip, no matter the surface. I figured the safest place for them was the trash & that’s where they went.
I was so surprised. I have been using my Rhino Ramps for many years now and never had a problem in any way, but I’ve always been suspicious of them. My vehicles are all wheel drive so I guess that’s how I avoided finding any issues. I always use stands and blocks for added safety. Time to use something else entirely!
Think it depends on the surface. A nicely finished garage floor can apparently be quite slick. I have a gravel driveway so doubt it would slide on me.
@@ManjaroBlack I own the rhino ramps, and have sued them for over 5 years.
Never had an issue with them. I have put rwd, 4wd, Fwd, cars/trucks/suvs on them and although they have a tendency to slip on smoother surfaces, they don't tip, or crush.
They're made in the USA, so that is extremel yimportant, money leavoing our economy is a death knell.
*Used :)
@@luxdedeus😂😂😂😂 Sued, what happened?
If you are going to use them on concrete you need to put a piece of carpet under each one so the tire hits the carpet first and they will not move!It’s easiest to use them on sloping down hill ground!
Thank you for sharing!
i think it worked better with mine driving uphill
I wouldn't use ramps on a flat surface that floor jack would be a better option on.
@@scotthipwell384 floor jacks and jack stands are more work than just driving up ramps and if you put them in wrong spot on the car it can slip off
@@ranger178 It's a true fact that if you put the floor jacks in an inappropriate place they are not being used in a safe manner.
I had a pair collapse under my Tundra. I can't remember the exact brand but they closely resembled those Pittsburgh ramps that you tested. I remember that they collapsed with a weight that was much below their stated capacity.
Not trusting the commercial offerings anymore, I made my own ramps using 2x10s screwed together to make a stair-stepped design. Being solid wood, they could probably support 5 trucks. The downside is that they are HEAVY.
Thanks for sharing.
Please tell us What temperature were they used and stored at? Sunlight(UV) exposure? How old were they?
We hear so many horror stories but no hard data.
I have both Pittsburg ramps, the steel and plastic. I believed the steel was superior in strength and would use them for heavy loads such as 3/4 ton p/u's and the plastic ramps for the autos. Your evaluation was a wakeup call for me. Thank you.
My favorite parts are when you say "we're gonna test that" and "very impressive".
That "Very impressive!" is a seal of approval from Project Farm.
I no longer buy anything without first checking how it ranked.
Race Ramps. High density foam, expensive, but they do not slip.
I also only use Race Ramps. Yes they are expensive but no slipping and strong
Yup. The only way to go.
Scrap Framing lumber and nails is a lot less expensive, can be thrown away, and can be built in only a few minutes.
But to be fair I don't travel with ramps so It's not a fair comparison
Made with genuine Spray Foam hopefully for ultimate durability & utility.
Race Ramps are nice, but they are insanely, absurdly expensive for what they are. In car guy circles, they’re practically a status symbol.
You will still be featuring tests with that old Buick 20 years from now. Those things seem to run forever.
I suggest cooler testing. Which one keeps ice the longest.
Thank you for the video idea!
Must be the 3.8 engine.
They probably fired the engineers because they lasted so long.
@@denslod2930literally the best V6 GM ever made.
I have to also defend the 2000 LeSabre I recently bought after comparing reliability, comfort, easy and cheap repairs anywhere it would have a problem when looking for a long distance road trip car. Built like a tank and perfect as an interstate cruiser. And on top of all that, it consistently gets 30 mpg on the highway. Not bad for a $2500 car with under 100k on the clock. Battleaxe, indeed.
I had an ‘87 Electra Park Ave “The Blue Bomb” with the 3800 I inherited in 95 and used as a commuter. I told myself I would buy a brand new car and use my 96 Camry as a commuter when it died. The Buick was still running on the original engine and trans when I sold it in 2021 with more than 570,000 miles on it. The Camry was in the junkyard at least 10 years by then.
1998 I bought plastic ramps when I lived in Oakfield Maine. They cracked and collapsed due to the cold. My air compressor plastic tires shattered too. Went steel after that! Thank you.
Thanks for sharing.
Car Ramps are also an excellent safety backup when supporting the vehicle on jackstands.
Thank you for sharing!
right I'm so paranoid, I use ramps as primary lift if I can, then jackstands, jack for extra support, and fuckit I'm throwing a wheel under there as well after I take it off. Maybe its overkill, but I am using at least three of these anytime I'm actually under the car. I would much rather be redundant than dead
@@tennysonjames2969we should all learn from you.
ummm, not the way all of them are slipping... I have a pair of all-rubber stops that are specifically designed for that
@@oneiros1401you put the car on jackstands first, then the ramps under the wheels. They act as spacers if the jackstand breaks.
I always spend a good amount of time making sure I'm safe under the car. I like a 3-point support in a triangular shape. Two jack stands behind the front wheels and leave my jack under the center below the engine. I release the pressure on the jack to make sure the jack stands can support the load by themselves and are stable. Then I pump the jack back up to again make contact with some pressure for assured contact.
Thanks for sharing.
I do the same 3-point system putting the jack under the engine support, I also upgraded from 2=ton jack stands to 3-ton. My safety was worth the extra money. Also with this setup I could remove the jack stands and use a Harbor Freight Wheel Dolly to remove and install my 70lb tires. TH-cam videos on doing this.
lol i used to do the same most times, i also got into just jacking the car up and putting 12 cocrete blocks with wood on top to support and stop sliding or movement
The best ramps I’ve ever had are ones I made myself by screwing together 3 pieces of 2x8 boards of different lengths
could support a house ,
They literally used to move tanks across obstacles on wood ramps in wars, if wood can hold a tank.. it can hold up Karen's crossover.
I have a problem with ramps slipping away on the garage floor, I like your idea of the wet t-shirt. I try to install jack stands under the car after it goes up the ramps, Better be too careful than have an accident and be killed by a car dropping on you. Thanks for the informative review.
You are welcome!
Coolant additives test
Thank you for the video idea!
@@ProjectFarm yes...does "wetters" additives help?
Why do you need additives?
@@hundredlives3910 same reason why there is oil additives, fuel additives, etc... to "help" or boost performance.
@@hundredlives3910some will fix a leak...some claim they allow the water to be "wetter" which allows for heat to be transferred to the surface and then blown off.
Gotta love how the rubber stops are at the backside of the ramp, away from where the load is
Thanks for the feedback.
Back in Jr. High, I decided to "help" my dad do an oil change on our beloved, then 10-year old 1964 Plymouth Valiant wagon. We had a pair of stamped-steel ramps. In order to not block the driveway, so my bitchy step-mom would be able to go shopping, I decided the side lawn would do the trick. Well, almost to my destination, the ramps slid to the side and the car came crashing down on them, bending the ramps beyond recognition. My dad was not pleased, but grateful I didn't start to work and slide under this dangerous situation. Mom threw a fit and I think she was more concerned with the dent in the side of the car, than my well-being. Ha! I got her by living to 64 and still going, while she's long been pushing up rutabagas. Side note: I wouldn't recommend any steel ramps which don't have a pair of horizontal bits welded in order to reinforce the ramps from buckling.
Thanks for sharing.
Same here. Those stamped ramps suck without the additional bracing. They'll bend on you in a second. I threw mine away. Dangerous MFers. Plastic ramps are ok, but I'm not getting under the car supported by ramps without stands anymore as a backup.
You Sir, are the Best TH-cam Channel out there with your detailed methodical testing and experiments.
Thank you for helping all of us make better choices as consumers!
surprised you didn't test out homemade wooden ramps made from cut up 2x6. With the price of wood, the ramps would of costed an easy grand.
Lol
what year do you live in? i can get 10ft 2x6's for $5
@@IIlicitobviously not 1986.
@@IIlicit Brand new? We pay more in Canada and the wood is sourced in Canada to begin with.
@@WJCTechyman straight from a lumber yard. not sure how you get brand new wood. dimensional lumber is usually decades old before they cut it down lol
I have the Rhino ramps. What really helped with the slipping is putting welcome mats underneath.
Thank you for sharing!
Plastic or fiber ones????? my Rhino's are useless.
@@alparker8661 plastic ones.
I use a towel and it works too
Still have to chock the rear wheels.
And Jack stands under the car.
@@GrumpyIan I don't trust jack stands. 4x6's are way stronger and give you a larger target to fall onto if need be.
We drove off of a metal ramp like the Pittsburgh brand and hit the back of my motorcycle! I have the Pittsburgh plastic ramps you tested and I love them. They are great for low profile vehicles. I have used them on all of my vehicles including my F150 truck with no problems whatsoever. Great for the prices.
Thanks for sharing.
I will share one scare I had. I was under my SL500 replacing the motor mounts. I had stands under the car and under the motor I had my good old autozone jack.. So i have the motor raised up as far as i can get it and I am under there spinning out the mounts. All the sudden it seemed like things were getting tighter. I slid out from under the car just as the seal in the jack failed and the motor dropped about 6 inches at once. Once I cleaned out my pants. I went and bought more stands and brand new daytona heavy duty jack.
Daytona? Please say harbor freight,. Also, saying heavy duty with HF is almost a joke.
@@alro2434 naaa I will say Daytona and Heavy Duty.. I just did it again . see how easy it is? They sell more than that brand soo..again .. Compared to what I was using it is HD. Not that I asked for your opinion here ,but thank you for it anyhow. My story was in response to the author of the video asking for stories of close calls. It was Not a request for either validation or invalidation on my choice of products. have a nice day.
@@wendellsmith1349: I love your response…not that you asked how I felt 😂 but, it made me smile.
That's actually a real good idea with the T shirts! My dad has a similar set and always had to place 2x4s against a wall to hold them while driving up.
Thank you!
I like that idea, but he's concentrating the pressure into a 2x4 inch spot on the ramp. Putting a friction enhancer doesn't do that...
Just slowly creeping up a pair of ramps is always a scary experience! I much prefer using a lift and stands. I do have a story related to failure of equipment working on a jacked up car from when I was young and dumb though.
Friend of mine wanted to rotate his tires. We gathered up 4 of those cheap scissor lifts meant for oh shit I have a flat tire and put the car in the air with just those and no jack stands. You know what happened. The car shifted a little while working and all 4 lifts gave out sending his wheeless car to the ground. Luckily no one got hurt but myself and 4 friends were left with broken oops I have a flat tire lifts. I learned that day to always use a jack stand.
I know you've done videos on those crappy scissor lifts but maybe instead of a product review consider purposely showing what can happen when you do things the wrong way like young dumb me?
The hydraulic press channel and second channel specialize in doing unsafe things in a safe way. They have a reinforced concrete room for doing dangerous stuff indoors. They stay outside the room and watch experiments through expensive blast resistant windows. They have an extra layer of sacrificial bullet proof glass to protect those windows from getting scratched by moderate energy shrapnel.
Their safety gear would not be affordable without the support of corporate partners. They don't do product reviews, so there isn't an overt conflict of interest. Although every episode on the main channel is implicitly an ad for the company that made their custom hydraulic press. They are an authorized dealer.
Project Farm would lose its independence if it did something like that.
One side at a time! Way safer!
I carry a compact floor jack in the car so I don't have to use the supplied scissor jacks. Advantage is lifting from a control arm to change a tire the car doesn't have to be jacked as high to get wheel off the ground. I also have a chunk of heavy aluminum angle for a wheel chock.
Just bought the Pittsburgh Plastic ones at Harbor Freight. They're great. Unless you have a really smooth floor, you won't have a problem with slipping. I just gave them a nice hard shove under the tire and they didn't move.
Thanks for feedback.
It's that time again. I have some of these let's check it out.
Thank you and hope you enjoy the video!
@@ProjectFarm may I suggest adding another factor to this test and see how long they can handle the load before experiencing damage. For instance, going 5k lbs over the rating. And seeing if it holds for 3 hours?
The VOWAGH pistons are for lifting, not holding; you need to insert the holding pins so it becomes a jack stand and retest.
That tossed me for a loop as well... you can clearly see that the rearward side slide down and that's how it got jammed.
A lot of people put down a cloth/carpeted type carpet runner under their ramps that's long enough that the wheels drive up on the runner first and then the ramp. Then the ramps don't move. Works great.
Thanks for the feedback.
1:26 My experience with these HF/Pittsburgh ramps is that the rubber feet don't survive the first Durango.
Thanks for the feedback.
Seems that that plastic ramps that look identical are actually identical. Probably made in the same factory, just sold under different brands. The difference in failure load is probably because you placed press slightly different. At 15:15 it's visible that ramp shear off just next to the web, if you had placed press over the web the result would have been different.
Yes, and it's like this for decades. I don't understand why people want to test "brands".
I used to work in an injection moulding company as a material handler....all the plastic ones seem to use the same mould or come from the same factory but a lot depends on how the material is mixed. If too much black color is applied for instance it will weaken the plastic....using too much recycled plastic will do the same thing.
The strength is also affected by how hot the plastic was when injected...cure time...mould temp etc. This is why for some identical ramps you will see some variation in testing. 😊
Every Rhino style ramps I had cracked on me.
The design is stack-able, but yeah I can see them being weaker that way too.
I got the pittsburgh plastic ramp a couple months back. Worked great when doing an oil change on my wrx. First time using ramps and they felt good and sturdy
Vowagh ramps appear to be a good choice for certain crushing death... Chineseum flat stock and Chinese welds 😂 no no nooo
Redneck lift concept and implementation.
I was able to pull some of the welds apart by hand on my ramps
I have never use them nor I have the car.
But I love seeing you test anything.
Thank you very much! This means a lot to me!
I built a set from yellow pine 2x12 lumber. They’re heavy, but completely trustworthy. Plus they don’t slip at all, they’re 2 inches higher than any if the ones tested, here, and I made them long enough to accept any low clearance vehicle as there are several of these in the family. Anyway, thanks for the video.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
That is exactly what I bought the HF plastic ones to replace. I got tired of hauling out my really heavy 40" wood "ramps".
@@davidhostetter7258 I just make the youngsters haul them out, since they are the ones with low-slung sports cars that can't use HF ramps, or any other store-bought ones for that matter.
I tried a few different ramps over the years and had many problems. About 20 years ago I made my first wooden ramps from left over pieces of lumber. These are 31” long, 7” wide, and 7” high. I used a wooden 2x4 as a step in the middle, in the up option. I have made 3 sets and they all work good and are solid. I roll up the ramp to keep them from sliding.
Thanks for sharing.
Wow, these look so dangerous! Thank you for testing, so none of us have to!
i wouldnt trust a single one. plastic also has a bad fatigue life.
Fun testing!
What always bugs me is how narrow they are. They could/should be twice as wide
it was posted a min ago how did you watch it already? 16 mins long btw!
Great point!
All of us on the "Cool" list get it three minutes early. Didn't your link get to you?
Agreed my wheels are usually hanging off the edge and they aren't even that wide
From the variety of manufacturers, you can see how much competition there is. Adding width, adds costs to manufacture and raises the price.
It would be nice to include in the test homemade wooden ramps. I'd like to see how DIY ramps hold up. Sure, there's variability, but a generic angled stack of wood would be fairly universal.
Yes. Mine were free. Made from bridge planks
Look around for a tree guy and most will be happy to make $20 for 5 min. work on a cut tree trunk. Or 2x10 12" is $22. Circ saw and some nails.
Makes me appreciate my really old-school metal ramps my father in law gave me. They have the support bracket pinning the ramp to the riser, and are really heavy!
Thanks for the feedback.