Just because a dealer or shop says they did an oil change doesn't mean they actually did it. My boss owned a Toyota Avalon that he loved. He was diligent about maintanance and had it dealer serviced for years. He was on vacation in Canada when his engine seized. A Toyota dealer in Canada told him the oil had never been changed. He pulled out all the maintanance invoices from his Toyota dealer which showed otherwise. He had to fight with Toyota before they finally relented and replaced his engine for free. I took this to heart and did my own oil changes from that point on. Trust no one.
What you say above may be true. The owner is an idiot. I always check my oil after an oil change. And new oil looks different then the old used oil you describe above.
Thanks for the comments Nick, appreciate the feedback. The first red flag for us is that he was taking it to Jiffy Lube for an oil change. We get that some people don't have the tools or knowledge to perform these repairs themselves. That is why my kids and I started making these videos awhile back. We wanted to help the average Joe to be able to perform routine maintenance on their own cars and not have to take them to these questionable shops. We have not and will not take our cars to any shop for any repair. One way or another we will figure out how to get it done right out there in the driveway. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@bsgareyIndeed good to check. But on many modern cars you simply cannot check anymore, while the is no dipstick. So people cannot check! I do my own oil changes (with a flush with the same product) but on my current car: no dipstick, and there is a roster in the filler neck/hole (How do you call that in the US?) so that limits almost every self check. Nice work of Bradleys Garage though. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Hard to know exactly how many miles since the last oil change but definitely seems like way more than 6k miles. We are thinking more like 12-15k miles sine the last oil change based on what the internals look like. He has had it since around 30k and claimed to have changed the oil 4-5 during this period. I'm sure the cheap oil changes at Jiffy Lube did not help the situation. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
I’m proud of Jiffy lube! That was a no win oil change . The new oil will loosen just up more sludge , Spin a bearing and it would be Jiffy Lubes fault of course because it ran fine when he brought it in.
Thanks for the comments John. We were surprised they actually looked under the oil cap before starting any work. Glad they told him he has a serious issue, topped off his oil and told him to drive straight to a mechanic. Now that we got him all cleaned up, hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on routine car maintenance. Cheers!
I recently installed a used engine into an older Forte. It ran great, but just 4 miles into the maiden voyage, I noticed the oil light on. I later determined that this would happen after winding it out. I could also hear the oil pump cavitating when the light came on. I pulled the pan and found the sludge that would get sucked into the pickup tube and plug it. I cleaned the pan, pickup tube, and the bottom of the engine and sent the engine on its way with the customer. It has been fine for a week now. I am trying to work something out with the salvage yard to get a longer warranty on it.
Thanks for the comments Michael, we will keep educating these young kids one poor soul at a time. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage this motor. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
@@BradleysGarageczyli najskuteczniej było odrazu zdjac miskę olejową oraz pokrywę zaworów.Wziąć normalny pędzelek ,umyć wszystko co się da pędzelkiem.Następnie na sam koniec wlac zalecany olej zrobić na nim 1k Miles.Wlac płukankę i wymienić.Taniej lepiej i ten osad nie zepsuję wtedy łożysk.A tak to ten cały osad poszedł.w układ smarowania.
@BradleysGarage uhg. Our kids have done the same. Had to do a brake job and thought I'd check the oil. Bone dry. Maybe a quart drained out. Changed it and he said it's about due. Wow! I'm sure it want survive his young age
Thanks for the comments Jack, glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Malcolm, we were surprised that it turned out so good. After popping off that valve cover it did not look promising. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Yeah, as a shop owner I can testify that Kia engines generally do not last long. They will sell you another engine for around $3k, though! Seems like they know their engines have problems.
I inherited a Ford from my grandfather, who did not believe in oil changes. Even after the timing chain failed at 60K, he just didn't change the oil. It had a 5.8 with factory towing package and was fully loaded. I took a valve cover off and I couldn't even see the rocker arms! The engine only lasted another 20K miles before it broke a couple of pistons despite my desludging efforts. Change your oil!
A grandfather who didn't believe in oil changes? We thought it was only the new generation who just throws everything away and buys a new one. Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson and understands the importance of routine engine maintenance moving forward. Thanks again for the comments, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarageI’m 20 and do my own oil changes every 3,000-5,000 miles or once a year whatever comes first for my cars and my grandparents cars. All our cars use 5W-30 and so I buy a 25L drum of it from Costco for about £60. So it comes to about £2.40/L. Each of our cars takes about 5L so that’s £12 each + ~£5 for a filter and ~£5 for a bottle of engine flush… total cost is about £22. My 2012 manual diesel BMW e84 has 186,000 miles My granddads 2005 Audi a3 has about 70,000 And my grandmothers 2011 Mini Cooper has 120,000 miles or so. No real maintenance after that, takes me maybe 20 minutes to do each one. My grandad says it is excessive to change it every 5K, and would have his changed whenever the manufacturer specified (10,000/1 year) - but since I offer, he takes me up on it.
I've heard this from some rednecks that I've known. They would say "Oil can't go bad! Just top it up every so often! Oil changes are a scam!" Just can't help some people...
@@iambenmitchellNice to hear that you look after your families cars as well. I wouldnt use a flush every single time if you keep up with those tight intervals. Just warming up the car should be enough and saves money.
My father doesn't believe in oil changes. He has had 6 cars in 10 years, with each car only lasting 40,000-60,000 after he purchases them before total engine failure. We've attempted to take his car to get his oil changed for him, but he gets very angry and refuses to let us do it because he thinks the oil is just fine and doesnt trust any mechanic at any shop anywhere. We've only succeeded in getting his oil changed one time while he was away from home. Once he came back home and realized we changed his oil he flipped shit and blamed us for when his engine failed 20,000 miles later, saying "See! That oil change ruined my engine!" He also believes that all cars are "junk" because every car he gets "only lasts 60,000" miles before the engine grenades itself. He fails and flat out refuses to accept the fact that its because he doesn't do oil changes. He spends around 10,000 every year or two to replace his car once the engine grenades. Some people really just lack any sort of intelligence.
Sorry to hear that, it sounds like there is a pattern there that's not being acknowledged. Proper oil changes are essential to longevity in an engine. Our 2004 Ford F-150 currently has 356k miles on it and it has regular oil changes it's whole life. Hopefully his bad habits haven't influenced you and you are changing your oil every 3-5k. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
I have been a mechanic since 1987. There are very few people I would trust to work on my vehicles. You would be one of them. Most hacks that do an engine flush do more harm than good. Taking the time to remove the valve cover and oil pan was the right thing to do. A+++. Hopefully for that Kia, you weren't too late
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
Personally I would have driven the car after the flush and oil change for 10-30 miles, then change the oil again (using cheap oil and filter for the first change), then have the guy come back after 500 miles to change it again. Nice job on pulling the valve cover and pan... that was a good move.
@@BradleysGarage that is a risk with letting an engine suffer, then running a flush through. The only thing sealing the engine is the carbon around the valves, and/or the sludge in the oil rings and compression rings. While this is usually attributed to high mileage engines especially as far as carbon build up goes, an unmaintained low or lower mileage engine is in my opinion worse than a high mileage engine as far as potential wear goes. I hope the engine survives, though the owner should be prepared to accept that all you did was return the engine as close as possible to where it should be as far as internal cleanliness and the ability for the oil to reach all parts that require lubrication goes. Any damage would have already been there, just not evident. Either way, the engine should not suffer a catastrophic failure as quick as it would have if left alone. PS, I should say I am not a mechanic, though I have repaired, rebuilt engines, serviced vehicles and dabbled in very minor panel work (my least liked part of automotive work). I prefer diagnostics these days.
just putting engine flush in would have plugged the filter and even with an oil change, that flush already broke up enough to plug the filter again in a few miles, he did it right, just need to take it apart and clean it
Thank you for actually showing this. It's an eye opener. I always thought that no matter how bad the engine is clogged up, an engine flush would fix it, but this video actually shows importance of maintaining your vehicle. Sometimes people skip out on oil changes and then when they have to pay the big bucks for a new engine then it's every one else's fault but their's. Once again thank you very much!!!!!
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. The owner is just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. The goal will be for him to be able to change his own oil moving forward. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Things have to get worse to get better, all a flush does is free up stuff that is going to clog up the pickup and over vital parts of the engine where oil should flow. I wondered in the 1st part of the video when he did the 1st oil change why he didn't take off the sump and clean that too, the 2nd part shows why this should have been done the 1st time.
That engine needed a proper engine flush, and that requires a special machine that hooks up to the oil filter housing and pumps hot oil and detergents to remove all that sludge. Or BG Platinum Oil Flush, and that costs about $400 just for the product. @JRgo used that to desludge a Camaro engine.
I was surprised you didnt pull the pan the first time around, with that much of a build up in there. I was thinking to myself that the sludge is all going to clog the pickup, and sure enough. Other than that slight oversight, great job!
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
A good flush with kerosine, will breakup what’s in the pan, and usually clear sludge in the filter. I have had to flush engines 3-4 times in a row, in order to clear out sludge and coking. It’s cheaper than tearing down the engine, and usually works. I have used a more diluted kerosine/oil mix (2 to 3qts oil to Kerosine) to treat really stubborn contaminations. You just have to be careful not to load the engine with the kerosine mix running through the lubrication system. I have heard of this being done with straight kerosine, although I have never done that myself.
@@tjhessmon4327 Thanks for the suggestions TJ, we will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
Thanks for this video! Super cool to see under the valve cover. Was helping my sister with her 2013 1.6 hyundai accent with 155K that she owned from new. She had just gone 7k miles on her oil change and she was down about 1.5 qts on a car that only holds 3.5. Her sludge looks maybe half as bad as this car. I was still shocked since I change my old toyota oil every 5K and it never burns a drop and has zero sludge from what I can see. Not really the cars fault because it calls for 3k oil changes and it's direct injection. I'm just using 5w30 valvoline restore and protect and we will see if it can last a year or two more. Just did 2nd oil change at 1600 miles and it only burned about a tenth of a quart. Next one will be 3k and I asked her to add oil if it needs.
Thanks for sharing Brian, appreciate the feedback. We are planning on using some Valvoline Restore & Protect on our next 3k mile oil change. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Jake spent about $250 for all the products/supplies used in the videos. Not sure what a shop would charge but we just wanted to try to help this young kid with his Kia. Most shops would probably tell him he needs a new engine for $4K. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage having an issue now with dealer. my 2022 pathfinder 42k miles threw off one alert for low oil pressure. the Nissan is telling me no warranty and dealer states they only swop for a new engine, didn't even mention a possible repair. Two days prior another Nissan dealer did my oil change and didn't alert me to any issues. they want 10k for new engine.
@@anthonygrillo4259 Sorry to hear about the trouble with your Nissan. I would be taking it back to the Dealer that did the oil change. You should have a 6 Year/ 60k mile powertrain warranty. www.nissanusa.com/content/dam/Nissan/us/manuals-and-guides/shared/2022/2022-nissan-warranty-booklet.pdf Any issues with the engine should be covered 100%. If you are not getting anywhere with the Dealer directly, contact Nissan @ 1-800-647-7261 Especially if you have documentation that two days before you started having the oil light issues it was serviced by a Nissan dealer. Keep escalating the matter until you reach a resolution. Good luck, Cheers!
The oil may have been changed 6k miles before it came to you but clearly it wasn't getting regular changes before that, sort of impressed it survived, l like the pace of your videos, enough detail without showing every nut and bolt every time
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. Hard to know exactly how many miles since the last oil change but definitely seems like way more than 6k miles. We are thinking more like 12-15k miles sine the last oil change based on what the internals look like. He has had it since around 30k and claimed to have changed the oil 4-5 during this period. I'm sure the cheap oil changes at Jiffy Lube did not help the situation. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage thanks for the video how ever i have 3 Toyotas and all three of Toyota gets an oil around 1000 thousand mile 1 thousand virtually every month
KIA's are notorious for burning oil. It doesn't matter what oil you put in, it burns it. Those things need a oil change every 3000 miles, no matter what.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. He's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. The goal will be for him to be able to change his own oil moving forward. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Mommy must have bought him that car. Doesnt anyone teach their kid the basics of car maintenace anymore? That was std when I grew up every teenager was taught that at home
I give you mad credit! You did a very thorough job of cleaning this engine. And you did it on your back. Most shops would have just written this car off. I hope the work you did actually saves this engine. In cars with vvt the controls will get cloged up and turn on the check engine light. Good work and a very good video.
Thanks for the comments Stanley, appreciate the kind words. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor long term. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Sharp Jiffy Lube tech for catching that! Good job. I spect that filter saved the motor unless it was gummed enough to bypass. The new oil was so black after 50 miles, just as well to do your other work.
It kinda looked like 60,000 miles since the last oil change. I don't think you could build up that much sludge in much less than that. But about doing your own maintenance if possible, absolutely. Most I have had shops do were transmissions and alignments. Everything else myself, engines, rear ends etc. Once even resealed an automatic myself, knwoe nothing about it, fixed it fine. These were old cars/trucks though, everything now is way, way more complex.
@@johnl9977 That is why perform all of our own maintenance on all our cars. We do not trust anyone to work on our cars, regardless of the issue. One way or another we will figure out to get it repaired. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarageI don't blame you! I remember once taking my car to a "highly recommended garage". Did the next service myself and found they'd put the cabin filter on upside down (hence the steamy windows), hadn't put the air filter on properly and hadn't touched the oil filter.
Thanks for the comments Fred, he's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. The goal will be for him to be able to change his own oil moving forward. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
congrats in your home. big blessings for DIY projects. I live in a big city and live in an apartment. two solutions I have used to change my oil and work on brakes. 1) deserted commercial parking lots 2) there are businesses that rent garage spaces for DIY folks. it has lift and tool set in each isle. fancy and very convenient. I think I paid $100 for two or so hours a while back. Nowadays I just do it in a deserted parking lot I found while driving around scouting.
I pay to have mine done because my car is a pain in the ass to work on when you've got fat hands and less than an inch of space between the oil filter and the sidewall.
That's the crazy part, you wouldn't even know there was an issue until you popped off that oil cap. We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarageespecially when people on social media refers kia as "unreliable" . This is exceptional that the damn car still runs. I have a friend who owns a Toyota Corolla 2002 and has been using Shell helix Hx7 10w40 synthetic technology engine oil since brand new. After several oil change and nearly 500k miles, he couldn't believe that the Toyota engine would still look clean. And it's important to notice that Japanese Corollas weren't equipped with Turbocharged direct injection and in that case, eliminates the risk of low speed pre ignition caused by direct injection. These old Corollas are tough, built like tanks and hard to kill
Thanks for the comments Hank, they say to just let it run for 15 minutes at idle and to specifically NOT drive the car with the flush product inside. We have heard of people using trans fluid or diesel and driving for 10-15 minutes but we wanted to see how well the Liqui Moly worked. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
If he did have an oil change 6000 miles back, it was very likely the 2nd oil change ever done. You did an excellent job desludging this motor. Had the same problem on a 66 Pontiac Lemans that was worse than this motor. It also clogged the oil screen pickup after a desludge attempt and I had to jack up the motor and put a new oil pump on it.
Thanks for sharing, appreciate the feedback. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Hey Thomas, thanks for the comments. We don't like working on dirty Engine Bays so it was cleaned up prior to starting the work. You can tell what it looked like at the beginning of the video. Cheers!
Glad you had all this on video. If the owner will lie and say he changed that oil every 6000 miles, he will lie in small claims court when he tries to place blame on you when the engine fails.
Thanks for the comments Clay, hopefully it never comes to that. 99% of what we work on is our own personal vehicles. This was a favor to a 20 year kid that went to school with my son. He doesn't know anything about cars or what it takes to keep them running properly. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on routine maintenance. Cheers!
I agree 100%. The “kid” (excuse #1) knows how to lie about changing the oil in 6,000 mile intervals. So he knows what he was supposed to do. I can understand not knowing and making a mistake. I can’t understand supporting and excusing lies.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
The oil pan next time should be removed the first time to avoid the chunks clogging the oil pick up. Will probably burn oil like crazy. Marvel mystery oil is very good to clean sludge. Also you can run 500 miles before the next oil change. Hope your friend learn something. Good work!!!
Exactly what I was thinking. Needed to drop the pan before the "engine flush" and clean it, then I would have sprayed from the top again then put pan back on and do a oil flush and change the oil again.
Thanks for the comments JF. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad and would clog up the pickup tube. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We will have to check out MMO on future projects. Thanks again for hanging out, appreciate the tips. Cheers!
I highly doubt the own will ever do an oil change after that one. And this is how you destroy a perfect good engine. The more you drive, the more frequently you must do an oil change to keep that engine running like new year after year. Motor oils are only good for every 5000 miles or less depending on the types of driving conditiin environment that you're in.
Oil pan reveal at 16:55. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We will monitor the engine over the next 500 miles and see if a 3rd flush is necessary. We got it pretty clean all things considered so we feel pretty good about the outlook. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers
I admire you for taking on this job! That engine was really sludged-up, possibly one of the worst I've ever seen. I think the only part that could have, in hindsight, been done better would be to immediately drain the oil from the oil pan after you cleaned off all the sludge in the top end. No doubt a lot of hard particles made their way to the oil pan, and when you ran the engine with that Liqy Moly flush along with that very dirty and sludgy oil, that probably what caused the oil pickup to become clogged. So I would have changed the oil and filter right after cleaning the top end, and ran the Liqy Moly with clean "cheap" oil and a new filter for 20-30 minutes. Then drain that and add fresh oil and a filter. Then run that for 500 miles and change again. But you were extra deep in cleaning out the oil pan and oil pickup, that really helped out that poor motor. These engines from Kia/Hyundai are well known to have problems, but when you fail to change the oil, you can't really blame the manufacturer.
Thanks for the comments LA Commander. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of a product. We didn't have much experience with Korean cars prior to this as we mainly play around with Euro cars. We will keep tabs on this engine for a few thousand miles to make sure everything is running smooth. Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson on routine maintenance. Thanks again for hanging out, appreciate the tips. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I still think the Liqui Moly is a very good product, but trying to use it with that old, dirty, sludged up oil was like you said asking too much of it. Had you added the LM to clean fresh oil it probably would have cleaned out more gunk.
Yeah with the benefit of hindsight, should have cleaned the top more thoroughly, drained / replaced filter, removed the pain, clean out, reassemble, and fill / flush. I know the temptation to hope that the drain pan pull isn't necessary, but really it should just be done in that situation. I would have wanted to use a particle separator and a narrow wand vacuum to pull out more from the top of the engine too. No criticism here... We have the benefit of seeing what happened after the fact. I know if I ever have to clean a sludged up engine what I'll do now... And even then there is a chance a second bottom cleaning is needed.
As soon as you mentioned a hit engine flush I started telling at my phone that you need to drop the pan, & inspect & clean the pickup! I learned my lesson as my '00 Jeep cherokee XJ 4.0 is still o jack stands as I ran the same engine flush, but do to work that popped up I didn't have time to remove the valve cover & remove what I could first. It ran like a dream for 200 Mike's after the flush & oil change, but I was out of town for work on some long steep hill climbs onnthe interstate when I lost oil pressure & spun a bearing. Thankful that's all the damage it appears I did to her, but lesson learned. I change my oil regularly (actually 5k miles) since I've owned it 2.5 years, but that still didn't account for the roughly 22 years & 220k Mike's it previously had on it. If you do a hot flush removing that valve cover first is a great idea, as is removing the pan. I would also highly encourage treating it a 2nd time & dropping the pan a 2nd time after 50-100 miles. I believe either I had a pan load of junk (oil wasn't chunky post flush) or more likely the sludge was loosened up & continued to break loose after the oil change. I didn't have an additive that woukd dissolve the sludge so it clogged the pickup screen. I believe it's Valvoline that has a Clean & Restore oil that seems to be really effective at removing buildup & sludge with normal driving. Not sure if that woukd have saved me or if I woukd have had the same issue.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
It looks more like 60,000 miles of oil top ups only. It would have been interesting to see what date was on the oil filter. Granted it might have been old stock and was replaced recently, though if it was older than two years old, then I would say it was replaced about the same year as the filter date stamp says. I am impressed JiffyLube actually looked at the vehicle first and did refuse to work on it. Good call on that.
Hard to know exactly how many miles since the last oil change but definitely seems like way more than 6k miles. We were also surprised that Jiffy Lube actually looked under the oil cap before starting any work. They must have gotten sued before for engine damage and are not taking on any liability in the future. Thanks again for the comments, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I am on the other side of the world to you. We have spill & fills here also. They try upselling products & services, I hear they do in the USA also. I have never used them, never will. Anyway I stumbled on your channel today. I have subscribed, looking forward to binge viewing your past videos and seeing your future ones.
@@robpeabo509 We have never used them either but some people just don't feel comfortable doing their own stuff, which is unfortunate. We try to help those people out by making straight forward easy to follow videos on common repair items. Thanks for hanging out on the channel, appreciate the support. Cheers!
This is why I have trust issues with dealerships and shops saying they changed any fluids. Plus you have no idea if they put in the type of oil or fluids you paid for.
Fairly simple to check if oil got changed. Pull your dipstick before you go in and then after it gets changed. Clean oil is fairly easy to spot. For the other fluids... yeah, you're right.
@@bootywarriror8793 That's a great tip for most cars with a dipstick. Unfortunately, more and more new cars don't even have one these days. They simple have an electronic sensor that displays the oil level after the car has been running for a few minutes. Like @TheRoadWarrior said above, trust is the real concern. Find a good shop and you will be taken care of. Cheers!
@BradleysGarage I know most cars don't have transmission dipsticks anymore, but they are getting rid of oil dipsticks too?! Yet another reason why I will keep driving my 18 year old Jeep.
This is a good example of an owner that never changed the oil. They just topped it off when the oil was low. All that sludge is the carbon that was held in suspension that never got removed with oil draining. Edit: I found adding 6-8 oz of archoil 9100 really helps with cleaning up the engine in between oil changes not to mention its lubricity.
Agreed, we are not buying the whole 6k oil change history. Thanks for the tip on the Archoil 9100, we will check it out. Thanks again for hanging out, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
I used to be able to do my own oil change but due to injury I have to rely on other people to do it now. I took it Jiffy Lube and Lamb's in the past but were screwed over the last time I went there. They never changed my oil even though I paid extra for the full synthetic. New oil has that shine to it, and old oil is much darker especially if you leave it past recommended change.
Sorry to hear about your experience David. We have no idea if Jiffy Lube actually changed the oil in the past or not. He has had it since around 30k and claimed to have changed the oil 4-5 during this period. I'm sure the cheap oil changes at Jiffy Lube did not help the situation. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
@@xxskizzumxx: Everything should have just remained in place. He shouldn't have tried using snake oil to fix a problem that a simple oil change on top of an oil change on top of an oil change couldn't fix.. . All that black gunk is what engine oil is designed to deal with, it has detergents in it that will GENTLY wash all that stuff away.. Just change the oil when it gets dark, then change it again.. Just like soap, detergents in oil can only hold so much "stuff", and the cool thing is that you can, for the most part, see that "Stuff" because it makes the oil dark. . Trying to move a bunch of junk out of an engine in one shot is just a bad bad bad idea. Even loosening that stuff in the head with a finger was a bad idea.. That could have all been washed away gently with cheap oil, in multiple oil changes.
Thanks for the comments Mike, he is very appreciative of what we were able to do for him. He's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what it takes to keep them running good. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance moving forward. Cheers!
yes saved him a very pricy engine replacement hope everyone knows that what he did is not easy, but it will work, you will not find anyone at jiffylube to save your engine like that
Great video! A tip for people who either have kias or hyundais: they both use that same oil pan. It's prone to Google transmission side so double check that it doesn't need to be bent back into place before reapplying or you're going to end up with a ton of leaking like I did.
I had a similar experience with a 95 k1500 I purchased. The oil looked good but had to pull the intake to fix a coolant leak from the quick coupler on the heater return line. After removing the intake I found a big (not good) sludge surprise in the valley. I removed the valve covers and you couldn’t even see the rockers there was so much hard buildup. I decided I had to remove the pan to clean everything. I removed all the rockers and pushrods as well. I used several gallons of diesel fuel to clean everything. I put it back together and ran several flushes through before I drove it. A couple one thousand mile oil changes and then switched to full synthetic. The oil now stays amazingly clean and doesn’t burn a drop of oil.
I had family like that, never changed oil, brakes, tires, air filters, you could see the cord through the bottom of the tires, brakes run down so low the rotors had canyons carved in them, hand fulls of dirt came out of the air filter housing, and when the oil light comes on, its time to add oil. I just laugh and shake my head.
Thanks for the comments James, we are glad we are not working on your families cars 😎 Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson here and will stay on top of the routine maintenance going forward. Cheers!
@@Incomudro1963 When dating the women I married, her car had cord coming through the front tires, the rear brakes were gone and the oil came out of the engine like the coffee that Mrs Douglas made for Oliver in Green Acres.
This is a good reason why you should do simple maintenance yourself instead of a shop or dealer, and with 0 experience it isn’t that complicated especially in the era of TH-cam. Bonus will be peace of mind and knowledge every time you work on your car on your own.
To be fair, he's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Thanks for the question, looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
What a great instructional video. People need to watch this so they understand that oil changes aren't optional, they are mandatory. Oil is the "life blood" of your car's engine. Imagine letting your body's blood sludge up because you didn't listen to your cardiologist (bad foods or smoking). All that "cramp" in your system and you would be looking at a heart attack or a stroke. Hey, it's the same for your car's engine. Surprise surprise, look after engine by keeping up on your oil and car will last a lot longer. Again, a great video.
Thanks for the kind words Murray, glad you enjoyed the video. He's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Not to get too personal, but I'm curious, did he grow up without a father/father figure in the household? That's the only way I think you can hit 20 (or really any age if you let your engine get THIS bad) as a male and still totally not know the importance of oil changes. My dad showed me how to do oil changes and how to get a proper dipstick reading myself when I got my first car at 17@@BradleysGarage
Thanks for the comments. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad and would clog up the pickup tube. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We will monitor the engine over the next 1k miles and see if a 3rd flush is necessary. We got it pretty clean all things considered so we feel pretty good about the outlook. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Wanted to state that I really enjoyed the video. Rereading my comment and it sounded a bit harsh, that was not my intention. One small note about the 6,000 miles ago oil change. That is probably true, but that was also probably his first oil change ever in that car!
I would have dropped the pan myself the first time, if the top end looks like that the bottom end is just as bad. Same reason why I drop the transmission pans in CVTs, you have to clean up the pan and the magnets by hand. You just can't drain and refill and cross fingers.
This was easily the most informative and educational, while also the best shot mechanic/DIY videos I’ve ever seen. The perfect balance of explanation and execution. Earned a sub, great work!
Are you not able to use break cleaner on other metal components of the car? I'm a computer technician, I don't normally work on cars. I use break cleaner spray on motherboards. It doesn't hurt the fiberglass or metal bits. Are metal car parts different in some way?
Thanks for the questions, we were actually using Carb Cleaner on the top valvetrain components. The goal was to get an idea of how baked on the sludge was. The main issue with Brake Cleaner on the bare metal parts is after using it the bare metal immediately starts to rust. Even with the Carb Cleaner it is still a concern although not as potent. That is why we did the diesel flush afterwards to lube up the components again. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
I am completely flabbergasted that you didn't drop the pan before the first start up! I would have cleaned the top end really well, let all that sludge go into the pan, then drop the pan and clean it. Then I would have added oil and flush, and done a proper flush, changed the oil, done another flush in about 100-500 miles, and she would have been good to do.
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
Thanks for the comments, we have already taken his Man Card for this willful neglect of his engine. The good news is we will keep tabs on this one for the next few thousand miles. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Cost me $40 to change my oil and filter with synthetic oil and a quality filter. I do it about every 8K-10K miles. So far I have 250K miles on both cars. That's about $1000 per car since I have owned them. I have been deep into both engines and nothing, I mean nothing like this. I have been a mechanic for 40 years and I have never seen such neglect. Just crazy people are willing to be robbed at a dealership and then they neglect the "investment" they just made. Great job and thanks for the video.
all cars are different some can go 10,000 miles but not a kia, had a customer with an audi wanted me to go by the book, oil was 10,000 miles and it worked for that car oil was still full and looked good when it was drained a 4 cyl kia engine would have ran out and locked up lol
To be fair, he's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
All of our VW Passat TDI's call for 10k oil changes and the internals are spotless, so it really does depend on the engine and how it manufactured. Kia actually recommends 7500 mile oil interval for this little Kia, which I think may be too long for this engine based on the feedback we are getting. Cheers!
I live in an apartment complex...can't change my oil or do any maintenance at home, and I don't have any friends or family nearby who own their homes either.
@@jimsix9929this is true, but most people will argue you can’t go 10k miles 😂 I laugh at all the mechanics that come out the wood work. OP is right on the money, I also have written service, people will argue with me to change their full synthetic oil at 3k or 5k miles. When I try to explain that you’re wasting money, they throw the biggest fit.
Before you even said anything the first thing that came to mind was after running that engine flush the pickup tube is going to be clogged. Back in the '70s if we suspected that an engine had a little sludge, after draining the oil we would put a couple quarts of diesel down the filler hole, let it sit awhile and periodically give the car a shake. That's usually all it took it free-up the crap on the pickup tube. Also, since you pulled the pan and cleaned the pickup tube I definitely would have primed the oil filter - which I always do at every oil change anyway. I'd recommend running Valvoline Restore and Protect for the next four oil changes then switch to a premium high-milage oil.
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point. We plan on checking out Restore & Protect on the next 3k mile oil change. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Love the old 320 in the garage I had a 78 320i back in 83 loved that car it was a tank the car saved my life a drunk driver hit me head on on the highway . Keep up the great work and vids
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. I've had that E21 since 1992 so it's my baby. We will be doing a full suspension refresh on it very soon and adding it to the channel. We also have an S50 swap in the works as well. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
I applaud you for staying calm and getting it done right. You have saved the day and undoubtfully his engine. Whenever I take my car to the dealer, I always check the work they do. I put little scratches or marks on all the filters and check the colour of the oil when I get home. Not surprisingly, they always "accidently" miss something. Once they know you do check, they take more care.
Thanks for sharing Dee, appreciate the kind words. That is why perform all of our own maintenance on all our cars. We do not trust anyone to work on our cars, regardless of the issue. One way or another we will figure out to get it repaired. Cheers!
Thanks for the comments George, glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Michael, appreciate the feedback. It seems like most people overtighten the oil drain plug. It's easy to just grab the torque wrench and make sure i's done right. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Great video! Educational, entertaining, and enlightening. Thank you for saving this car from the brink. Those Kia/Hyundai motors are already on thin ice, so they need all the help they can get!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully we have done enough to save this motor. Not sure how much longer it would be running if he didn't bring it over the other day. We didn't have that much knowledge about Korean cars as we primarily work on Euro stuff. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Thinking here in Europe KIA gives Seven Year Warranty and Hyundai Five Year's, both sharing many similar parts and platforms, the likes of shared Engines, so in that regard they wouldn't be in business here for too long is they were making Chocolate box Engines...
Back in the 80's a friend of my Dad's stubbornly believed that all you needed to do was add oil when needed. No regular oil changes. It's good to show the damage this neglect causes when you are too lazy or too cheap to make a oil change.
I have a father n law that does this right now been doing it to all his cars almost ran out of oil few month ago check engine car almost stalled I told him change his oil.he gloates about how he never has to do oil changes and still after almost seized the engine he still never did a oil change just keeps adding he's in his late 60s
We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
Old school tricks still work. You never see a "DIRTY" transmission even if the fluid is burnt and the pan has a ton of friction and metal. I'd ideal the engine a few minutes. Let it sit for a half hour, and repeat 3 or 4 times, then change the oil and filter. If it was really bad I'd do another oil change i 1000 miles.
Add some Marvel Mystery Oil and drive it two days before an oil change. MMO helps clean a high mileage motor that has generally been serviced. Do an upper cylinder soak overnight before the oil change. This would help add to the service life when the oil has been changed every 5,000 miles
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
I have had good experiences with various Liqui Moly products. The radiator cleaner was one. A product can only do so much, please stick with the brand. Fantastic video. Watched and subscribed
Thanks for the kind words Michael, appreciate the feedback. It was a bit of a mess a but hopefully we got cleaned up enough. We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
Interesting. I learned something today. I didn't think sludge like this was recoverable. I thought you were in "new engine" territory when this happens.
We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage these Hyundai/Kia Theta II engines are junk anyway. Even with meticulous maintenance the will be severe oil burners after 120K or so. Faulty manufacturing
The history of this vehicle's maintenence is a huge question mark but it amazes me how many Kia owners don't maintain their vehicle's properly despite already having a bad rep for engine issues.. lol
in my opinion this is one of the biggest reasons kia/ Hyundai had this engine fiasco.. some people genuinely had a faulty engine most poor maintenance but because of the lawsuit u can go in and get a engine swap with very little push back even when it's the customers fault
All we know is he bought the car with about 30k on it and has "changed the oil 4-5 times" or so he says. To be fair he doesn't know anything about cars or what is required to keep them running good. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson here and will take batter care of it moving forward. Cheers!
We didn't really have any knowledge working on Korean cars prior to this. We have heard that other people has experienced sludge issues with their Kia/Hyundai motors so I'm not sure what the actual issues are. I'm sure not really remembering when the oil was changed last is not a good sign. This doesn't happen overnight so it's been brewing awhile. Thanks for the comments, Cheers!
@@bradhaines3142 Not sure what the difference is between the two engines but this one is the LX with the 1.8L MPI (Multi Port Injection) versus the EX 2.0L GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection). Do they both have issues with carbon buildup? Not sure. Have to look into that after we get the oil situation completely resolved. Cheers!
Hey man good job, I once fixed a car 10 years ago with the same issue, what I did was dropped the oil then filled the engine completely full to the top with heavy-duty degreaser and let it soak for 48 hours, emptied the degreaser out, the engine internals were extremely clean after the soak, new oil filter oil and drove the car for an hour then removed the oil and filter and replaced with new, the car has been running mint ever since.
Thanks for sharing Rob, appreciate the feedback. What type of degreaser did you use for the soak? Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
@BradleysGarage 10L of heavy duty parts degreaser fill to the top of the oil fill port let it soak for 2 days then drop & refill full with diesel let it soak for a few hours then drop, then do the new oil and filter run to remove any impurities, drop and replace with new oil and filter. It Should do a good job, did for me on a engine that had coolant and water in the oil and was driven for 8 months like that, it was very gumed up so yeah. That's what I did and was impressed with the results.
@cheynnesvensen8599 Thanks for sharing, we will keep that in mind on our next Sludge Factory project. Sounds like a pretty good thing to try out. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Thanks for the comments. I didn't even know it was routine practice for them to peak under the oil cap before even starting work on the car. Seems like they have run into this situation many times in the past and don't want to be buying another engine. Cheers!
In the future, try Seafoam and a brush to clean the sludge. I found this out cleaning up a valve cover. It didn’t have a lot of carbon buildup but was varnished. Seafoam cut through it after letting sit for a minute. Never seen anything that could remove brown varnish. No one ever talks about using Seafoam for varnish and sludge removal when cleaning engine parts.
Thanks for the tips, appreciate the feedback. We will definitely give Seafoam a try on the next plastic valve cover that is all brown and crusty. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Seafoam has worked great in my experience too. My buddy used to have an old clapped out 4cyl S-10 that ran on 3 cylinders. Threw half a can of Seafoam in the oil, let it idle 20-30 mins, changed the oil, and lo and behold cylinder 4 decided to join the party…lol! He was amazed and has used Seafoam in his cars ever since.
Wow, great job! I’m impressed that Kia’s engine didn’t seize up. Gives me hope for my 20’ forte. I religiously change at 5k, full synthetic. I’m at 28k miles and just put in 4 oz of Seafoam into my crankcase and then changed the oil after about 150 miles. I checked oil before and after that the seafoam and it 100% was darker. I didn’t take anything apart to inspect but I really hope my engine never comes close to this. I need this car to last me! Awesome video with great suggestions. Many thanks!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. It sounds like you should have no issues with your Kia since you a performing the proper maintenance. We plan on doing additional oil changes every 3k miles until things are really clean inside. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Martin, it was a lot worse than we had originally expected. After getting that valve cover off, we knew we would be in for a fun time. Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson in the importance of routine maintenance. Cheers!
I see so many cars that are smoking that are not that old. I've asked two people over the year "When was your last oil change? Your smoking. One lady was embarrassed, the other didn't care
Thanks for the comments David, hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. The goal will be for him to be able to change his own oil moving forward. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
It’s significantly cleaner than what it started as. I’m really curious about the further longevity of this motor and if and how much oil it’ll burn in the future
Thanks for the comments, it came out pretty well all things considered. We will keep tabs on it over the next few thousand miles. See if it is burning any oil and how things look at a 3k oil change. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
This motor probably doesn’t have much more time on the road…there’s got to stress on it because of heat and friction. I’m surprised the coolant and oil haven’t mixed by now.
The engine is actually probably fine as long as the pickup tube was clear and didn’t starve the engine. The filter will clean all the contaminants before they go into the main and rod bearings. Carbon buildup on the rings would be the biggest concern but as long as it doesn’t burn oil… Sludge buildup on the top end in the crevices is harmless until it works down to clog the pickup tube.
To be fair, that could be six thousand miles post oil change... Looking at how soft the sludge on top was, it might be that this car had next to no oil changes in its life BEFORE the last one? Was this car new to the current owner?
Thanks for the comments, Chrisy. It looks like he has had the car since 30k so it might have not been taken care prior to his ownership. But we are still not buying the whole 6k oil change. Good news is we will keep tabs on it moving forward and plan on doing the next oil change at 3k. Then we will see how things look at that point. Cheers!
@@brianeighties4481 Unfortunately I don't think he has any idea about oil or how long it lasts. To be fair, he's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
@@brianeighties4481I did 15,000 mile oil changes with Mobil 1 extended 5w-30 on our 2016 little ford connect delivery van and did oil analysis after 30,000 miles 3 times. She is at 150,000 miles but sold and still running. The van had no sludge I could see in the valve train. Just some light black varnish. Not the normal brown on a regular changed cars. A testament of good oil made for the job. Would I do it for my car, no. I have a Hyundai tuner car with a turbo/tune that gets thrashed daily, and short tripped. I dump at 3,000 miles.
@@TedTedness-wu4vb be of the problems is people don’t check the oil for 10,000 miles and it consumes oil and then they spin a bearing. The TBN numbers on the Mobil one had to be low after 10000 miles?
Thanks for the comments, those are fundamentals that he will need to know for a lifetime. We agree that routine maintenance is the key to longevity. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Jester, appreciate the feedback. If only we had the facial expression of the Jiffy Lube tech when he popped off that oil cap, it would be priceless. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
I saw sooo much spun bearings after using engine flush. All lifted sluge + strong solvent compromise lubricarions in tight spots. Best approach is mechanically clean what is cleanable + do several regular oil changes in short periods.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. It is always a risk to try to clean up the mess. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Steven, looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Long ago i learned the value of proper oil changes. Have been doing my own for the passed 45 years. I also only do full synthetic. Sludge just can't get a hold in the engine that way. Great primer on what can happen when not changing oil properly and most likely using the cheapest oil possible
Thanks for the comments Nicholas, hopefully Jake has also learned the importance of routine maintenance as well. We will keep tabs on things to make sure it continues to run great. We are optimistic that we have done enough to salvage the motor long term. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
That car has maybe had three oil changes in its life. When I used to work on a lot of Hyundai products this was a relatively common sight. For whatever reason, the owners of these cars almost never do the maintenance.
Demographics. People who buy Hyundai/Kia do not research the myriad of well-documented problems and do not bother to learn how to maintain their cars either. Lots of fathers have failed their children too.
Thanks for the insight Fishsticks, as this was our first experience with a Korean car make. Normally we play around with only Euro cars so this was a learning process. We may never know how many miles it was since the last oil change but the bottom line is he has not taken care of the car as he should. Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson and will stay on top of the routine maintenance going forward. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@seanpop2886 some kias are reliable and good cars if you do proper maintenance on them the 1.8 liter engine on kia fortes made in their Korean plant are pretty good running engines if you take care of them, I have seen two 2014 models with over 200k miles on them and still silent running cars.
interesting comment. On the one hand I read horror stories about kia. Yet, I see posts in comments of automobile reliability videos of kia owners doing regular maint. and they boast and brag about how good the cars are. it all comes down to maint. period.
@@narutobase45 I see this contrast over and over again. kia's getting ripped in videos about how junky they are and comments from assorted kia owners who perform regular maint. boasting and bragging about their kias.
I'm curious why you didn't (1) Change the oil filter and (2) Use solvents to try to dissolve the gunk in the bottom end - before resorting to pulling the oil pan. This engine still has a boatload of sludge in it and more of it can and will dislodge and dissolve. It will take several more treatments to sufficiently clean it.
Thanks for the comments Brian. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad and would clog up the pickup tube. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We will monitor the engine over the next 1k miles and see if a 3rd flush is necessary. We got it pretty clean all things considered so we feel pretty good about the outlook. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
I am imagining all of the oil return holes in the piston grooves, the oil control rings, and half the galleries/bearing lube points in the engine as either clogged up or severely reduced in volume flow capabilities. I would love to see a follow up to find out how long this engine lasts before seizing, smoking/burning oil to the point of costing more than a full oil change every month. Based on poor old DIY Dave's years of experimenting with every snake oil engine cleaner/flush miracle substance there is, I do not hold out any hope for this Kia, lol.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad and would clog up the pickup tube. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We will monitor the engine over the next 1k miles and see if a 3rd flush is necessary. We got it pretty clean all things considered so we feel pretty good about the outlook. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Exactly my thoughts. Cleaning up the sludge you can see and access without a complete tear down is superficial compared to all the critical points where oil must flow without being gummed up or blocked. The engine flush chemistry is the only thing that might help, and obviously as demonstrated it has a minor impact on sludge. Kia and Hyundai are already known for engines failing after a short life, so they already have a handicap against long engine life besides forgetting to do oil changes.
My car holds 7 quarts. I change my oil every six months. It has 268,000 miles. Does not burn or leak oil. Runs perfectly and averages 25 mpg. So you know it has to be an E39 528i BMW.
Thanks for sharing David, we have never seen a BMW that doesn't leak oil. You must have a real museum piece here. 😎 Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
With an engine like that after cleaning it, I would do an engine oil change every 1,000 until 3,000. Then every 5,000 depending on how the oil comes out. While typing I saw the part that you say about at 1,000 miles. Great video!!
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. We will keep performing 3k mile intervals until things are looking clean. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
That’s why I like the BG engine flush. Instead of breaking free those sludge particles and moving it somewhere else the BG flush dissolves it into the oil. In theory it shouldn’t clog things up
@@blainelyons421 you can buy the BG EPR engine flush that is about $20 online and works in the same way. Probably won’t get as clean as the full engine flush kit you’re talking about
My father who died 15 years ago at the age of 95 told me that they used to drain the oil, fill with keracine, run for a few minutes, drain, fill with oil, run for 15 minutes, drain and fill again for the final. This was back in the 20s.
Thanks for the tips Shawn, appreciate the feedback. We did a little diesel flush on the follow up video. Be sure to check out that video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
On the older engines where tolerances are greater, you could drain the oil, refill with pure diesel and run it on low rpm for 5-10 minutes, drain and repeat. I cleaned many of engines like this. I am not sure a KIA motor would be able to survive a diesel wash
@@Koala-Express Thanks for the comments, we tend to agree. We don't think running straight diesel would be a good idea on these newer engines. We felt comfortable running the 1 liter but anything more might be risking the needed lubrication. Cheers!
Good video. What do you do to protect yourself from liability in situations like this? IE, how good a buddy is he really? There just HAS to be some level of engine wear/damage from this kind of neglect. If your buddy wanted to be an a hole and come after you when it starts burning oil and fails a smog or starts running bad after you cleaned it out, what then? Seriously, if Jiffy Lube is going to turn the job away, you know it's BAAAAAD.
Thanks for the comments. The owner is a good friend of my son (they went to school together) so I'm not worried about any liability. In general, everything we do is on our personal vehicles so it's never been an issue. We will keep tabs on the engine over the next thousand miles or so and make sure the oil gets changed every 3k to prevent any more problems. Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson in the importance of routine maintenance. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
My friend had an engine in EXACTLY the same condition the only difference was that HE deliberately didn't change the oil for 30k miles (don't ask me why). I let the engine warm up then drained it ,replaced the oil filter and then refilled the engine and once it was warm i added tge Liqui Moly and let it idle for15 minutes then drained it. I did this 4 times that day -the 3rd/4th times i told him to take it onto the bypass and cover 15 miles each way . When he came back i added the Liqui Moly to the hot oil and then let it idle for 15 mins. After the 4th oil/flush and refill i checked the oil after his bypass run and there were no clumps floating in his oil whatsoever . I told him to come back after 500 miles and I'd flush it once more and i advised him to change his oil at EVERY 5k miles as specified ,but,also to use Liqui Moly flush . When he came back after 500 miles i did the usual and refilled the oil and changed the filter. The total for just the consumables of the initial 4 oil oil changes/flushes weren't cheap ,but,as i explained to him -"i haven't charged you for labour just the parts - you should think yourself lucky that you're not paying £2k for a new engine plus labour mate". He very quickly saw my viewpoint .
Thanks for sharing, it sound like you helped a friend out and saved him a bunch of cash. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
It never ceases to amaze me how people neglect oil changes. A regular customer rang me and told me he had a wrench light come up on his dashboard. When I told him it meant the car was due a service and oil change he actually said to me "but I did it a year ago"! He thought I was joking when I told him you're supposed to do it annually and oil changes twice yearly. 🤦
Thanks for the comments Andrew. That is why 99% of what we work on is our own personal cars. I can't imagine owning a shop and dealing with these issues on a daily basis. We got enough to mess around with just on the family cars. Cheers!
@@chrisgastlike anything in life, the truth is never captured in simple rules like “every 3k miles or 3 months”. These are loose rules of thumb, that vary based on the motor, driving conditions, oil quality, and countless other things. Read your owner’s manual to get a general idea and err on the side of caution.
Some newer vehicle maintenance manuals call for oil changes with synthetic oil every 10,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first. Synthetic oil and a good filter will not sludge up at that mileage unless short trips (less than, say, 8 miles, depending on ambient temperature) are the norm. I change my vehicle's oil every year with Mobil 1. No vehicle is driven more than 5000 miles during any given year.
@@mrmarcink1300 It was definitely taking a risk getting this cleaned up for this kid. Hopefully we did enough to salvage the motor. Not doing anything would leave him in a much worse position for sure. Cheers!
If that is what the interior looked like, think of what the area behind the oil rings are like on the pistons. I would bet that he now has a pretty good oil consuming engine. I know gasoline is a great cleaner, but there are other things far less volatile and nowhere near as carcinogenic or flammable to use, especially in your driveway! One good spark from someplace and your face is toast.
Thanks for the comments Loyd, appreciate the feedback. We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush depending on how things look. The gas trick was passed down from my Pops many years ago. It seems these old habits are sticking around. We will switch to diesel for our next video, as we don't need any burnt faces over here. Cheers!
I tried to clean a valve cover with todays gasoline. It didn't clean like the real gas of 30-40 years ago. I use carb or brake cleaner now. @@StephenHarristnt
Idk how you're doing work in a nice neighborhood, I love it, the way it should be. Also, I'm insanely impressed with you or your teams ability to respond to so many comments.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Since we live in a cul-de-sac we don't really have any trouble from the neighbors. We try not to leave anything apart for more than a couple days. It is nice to be able to work on things in your driveway. Someday we will build the dream garage we have been wanting for years now. We made it our goal to respond to each and every comments for our videos. This particular video was extremely challenging, especially in the early days, since the daily views/comments were pretty insane. A few sleepless nights and we have been able to stay on top of things. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
This was simultaneously horrifying and entertaining. Also a good demonstration on how a flush can possibly go "wrong" with the pickup clogging and oil pressure issues later - there is a risk to doing this. I'd want to do a compression test ASAP to see if any damage has been done, and may need a piston soak and additional cleaning cycles afterwards to unstick the oil control rings. If compression isn't too bad, it might be worth saving by getting a BG cleaning done on it ($300+!) but they only sell it to shops and suppliers.
Thanks for the comments Garen, appreciate the feedback. We will look into that BG product as our neighbor owns a shop in town. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product. We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point. We will monitor the engine over the next 1k miles and see if a 3rd flush is necessary. We got it pretty clean all things considered so we feel pretty good about the outlook. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Oh gosh, using a strong solvent is a bit scary to me. In my HS shop class, one of my classmates did this (replaced the oil with diesel) and blew up the engine and spent the rest of the school year rebuilding it. 🙃 Sounds like these Korean cars don't have a solenoid filter screen so not as big a risk of clogging. I know folks who do swear by Liqui-Moly flush, but they are using it with every oil change, and I'm sure it's designed for safety so not going to be able to really move the needle with something like this - will help over the long term. Anw great video, kudos to keeping a positive attitude, and Merry Christmas! Subscribed.
Good work! It amazes me how people allow a newer car to get that abused. You did a good job going through this and it looks like you were able to save the engine. The one thing I would always do though is to refill the oil filter as it helps build oil pressure quicker than leaving it empty.
Thanks for the kind words Jim, appreciate the feedback. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
@@jimsgaragetoys The only thing they currently offer in our school district is Woodworking. They are not even going to know what a screwdriver or a pair of pliers is. We will try to educate them one at a time if need be. There never seems to be a shortage of cars that have been neglected. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
Prefilling oil filter is frowned upon due to possibility of introducing engine damaging material into engine. An engine can handle that 1 second without lubricant when it has oil on parts already. If you do refill, you should only be doing so from outer holes.
@@NathanGrant75 How are you going to introduce damaging material from a new filter and new oil? I've always been told from serious engine builders and oil specialists to pre-fill an oil filter. The faster the engine has oil pressure the better, no exceptions.
It's possible they changed it but they used high paraffin oil like Quaker State. Back in the '70s I pulled the valve cover off of our '71 Opel 1900 and there was a quarter inch of paraffin on the top. Looked like vaseline. The rocker arms and such looked ok though. I think it just solidfied on the relatively cooler cover. And we changed our own oil so I know it was done. Always used Quaker State. Never again after that though. Anything made with Pennsylvania crude is high paraffin because Pensylvania crude is high paraffin.
Hard to know exactly how many miles since the last oil change but definitely seems like way more than 6k miles. We are thinking more like 12-15k miles sine the last oil change based on what the internals look like. He has had it since around 30k and claimed to have changed the oil 4-5 during this period. I'm sure the cheap oil changes at Jiffy Lube did not help the situation. Cheers!
Had a customer came in like this. Never changed oil on 2006 accord clocked 92k kms before low pressure oil came. Did flush with diesel engine oil and brake fluid for 5 times with around 1hr mixed rpm between the flush. Came out clean and no issue whatsoever. Came 1 year later for timing chain replacement, internal looks good
Thanks for sharing, hopefully we have done enough to salvage the engine. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
My daughters 2016 Kia Forte has 210,000 miles on it and still runs great😂 that's definitely a minimum of 20,000 Mi without an oil change but those engines will run forever because they have a timing chain and not a belt. I have changed my 2023 Kia Forte oil every 5,000 miles since I got it
Thanks for the comments, hard to know exactly how many miles since the last oil change but definitely seems like way more than 6k miles. We are thinking more like 12-15k miles sine the last oil change based on what the internals look like. He has had it since around 30k and claimed to have changed the oil 4-5 during this period. I'm sure the cheap oil changes at Jiffy Lube did not help the situation. Cheers!
Just because a dealer or shop says they did an oil change doesn't mean they actually did it. My boss owned a Toyota Avalon that he loved. He was diligent about maintanance and had it dealer serviced for years. He was on vacation in Canada when his engine seized. A Toyota dealer in Canada told him the oil had never been changed. He pulled out all the maintanance invoices from his Toyota dealer which showed otherwise. He had to fight with Toyota before they finally relented and replaced his engine for free. I took this to heart and did my own oil changes from that point on. Trust no one.
What you say above may be true. The owner is an idiot. I always check my oil after an oil change. And new oil looks different then the old used oil you describe above.
@@bsgareylol… takes one to know one.
Thanks for the comments Nick, appreciate the feedback. The first red flag for us is that he was taking it to Jiffy Lube for an oil change. We get that some people don't have the tools or knowledge to perform these repairs themselves. That is why my kids and I started making these videos awhile back. We wanted to help the average Joe to be able to perform routine maintenance on their own cars and not have to take them to these questionable shops.
We have not and will not take our cars to any shop for any repair. One way or another we will figure out how to get it done right out there in the driveway.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@bsgareyIndeed good to check. But on many modern cars you simply cannot check anymore, while the is no dipstick. So people cannot check!
I do my own oil changes (with a flush with the same product) but on my current car: no dipstick, and there is a roster in the filler neck/hole (How do you call that in the US?) so that limits almost every self check. Nice work of Bradleys Garage though. Greetings from the Netherlands.
@@djhimself5754 Thanks for the comments DJ, appreciate the kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
I don’t think they ever changed the oil. That sludge war crazy. Great job fixing it.
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Hard to know exactly how many miles since the last oil change but definitely seems like way more than 6k miles. We are thinking more like 12-15k miles sine the last oil change based on what the internals look like.
He has had it since around 30k and claimed to have changed the oil 4-5 during this period. I'm sure the cheap oil changes at Jiffy Lube did not help the situation.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
That looks like it definitely did not have regular oil changes!
I’m proud of Jiffy lube! That was a no win oil change . The new oil will loosen just up more sludge , Spin a bearing and it would be Jiffy Lubes fault of course because it ran fine when he brought it in.
yup, fair is fair.
@@msmarshall854 never thought I'd be on jiffy lube's side.
Thanks for the comments John. We were surprised they actually looked under the oil cap before starting any work. Glad they told him he has a serious issue, topped off his oil and told him to drive straight to a mechanic.
Now that we got him all cleaned up, hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on routine car maintenance. Cheers!
Jiffy Lube is getting smarter, not taking on any liability which is smart. Cheers!
I recently installed a used engine into an older Forte. It ran great, but just 4 miles into the maiden voyage, I noticed the oil light on. I later determined that this would happen after winding it out. I could also hear the oil pump cavitating when the light came on. I pulled the pan and found the sludge that would get sucked into the pickup tube and plug it. I cleaned the pan, pickup tube, and the bottom of the engine and sent the engine on its way with the customer. It has been fine for a week now.
I am trying to work something out with the salvage yard to get a longer warranty on it.
A motto to live by: "Oil is cheap, engines are expensive."
Thanks for the comments Michael, we will keep educating these young kids one poor soul at a time. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage this motor.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarageczyli najskuteczniej było odrazu zdjac miskę olejową oraz pokrywę zaworów.Wziąć normalny pędzelek ,umyć wszystko co się da pędzelkiem.Następnie na sam koniec wlac zalecany olej zrobić na nim 1k Miles.Wlac płukankę i wymienić.Taniej lepiej i ten osad nie zepsuję wtedy łożysk.A tak to ten cały osad poszedł.w układ smarowania.
@BradleysGarage uhg. Our kids have done the same. Had to do a brake job and thought I'd check the oil. Bone dry. Maybe a quart drained out. Changed it and he said it's about due. Wow! I'm sure it want survive his young age
Man, he saved that Kia engine from certain death.
Thanks for the comments Jack, glad you enjoyed the video.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
Harms already been done
Perhaps but loosening the sludge with the flush additive and not removing all of it afterwards seriously jeopardized that engine.
Possibly clog the oil pickup with sludge after doing engine flush. Need to remove oil pan to make sure the sludge is out.
Sadly it’s still a Kia engine.
Kia gets a gold star for surviving the mistreatment and run without loss of a rod or bearing.
Thanks for the comments Malcolm, we were surprised that it turned out so good. After popping off that valve cover it did not look promising. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
GOOD POINT:)
Lol Kia/Hyundai have a massive problem and a huge recall for engine code P 1326.
Yeah, as a shop owner I can testify that Kia engines generally do not last long. They will sell you another engine for around $3k, though! Seems like they know their engines have problems.
I change the engine oil of my KIA SPORTAGE 1.6 GDI SL (2011) every 10000km and I have no issues. For sure my next car will be a KIA.
I inherited a Ford from my grandfather, who did not believe in oil changes. Even after the timing chain failed at 60K, he just didn't change the oil. It had a 5.8 with factory towing package and was fully loaded. I took a valve cover off and I couldn't even see the rocker arms! The engine only lasted another 20K miles before it broke a couple of pistons despite my desludging efforts.
Change your oil!
A grandfather who didn't believe in oil changes? We thought it was only the new generation who just throws everything away and buys a new one.
Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson and understands the importance of routine engine maintenance moving forward.
Thanks again for the comments, Cheers!
I don't believe in gravity
@@BradleysGarageI’m 20 and do my own oil changes every 3,000-5,000 miles or once a year whatever comes first for my cars and my grandparents cars.
All our cars use 5W-30 and so I buy a 25L drum of it from Costco for about £60. So it comes to about £2.40/L. Each of our cars takes about 5L so that’s £12 each + ~£5 for a filter and ~£5 for a bottle of engine flush… total cost is about £22.
My 2012 manual diesel BMW e84 has 186,000 miles
My granddads 2005 Audi a3 has about 70,000
And my grandmothers 2011 Mini Cooper has 120,000 miles or so.
No real maintenance after that, takes me maybe 20 minutes to do each one. My grandad says it is excessive to change it every 5K, and would have his changed whenever the manufacturer specified (10,000/1 year) - but since I offer, he takes me up on it.
I've heard this from some rednecks that I've known. They would say "Oil can't go bad! Just top it up every so often! Oil changes are a scam!"
Just can't help some people...
@@iambenmitchellNice to hear that you look after your families cars as well.
I wouldnt use a flush every single time if you keep up with those tight intervals. Just warming up the car should be enough and saves money.
My father doesn't believe in oil changes. He has had 6 cars in 10 years, with each car only lasting 40,000-60,000 after he purchases them before total engine failure. We've attempted to take his car to get his oil changed for him, but he gets very angry and refuses to let us do it because he thinks the oil is just fine and doesnt trust any mechanic at any shop anywhere. We've only succeeded in getting his oil changed one time while he was away from home. Once he came back home and realized we changed his oil he flipped shit and blamed us for when his engine failed 20,000 miles later, saying "See! That oil change ruined my engine!" He also believes that all cars are "junk" because every car he gets "only lasts 60,000" miles before the engine grenades itself. He fails and flat out refuses to accept the fact that its because he doesn't do oil changes. He spends around 10,000 every year or two to replace his car once the engine grenades. Some people really just lack any sort of intelligence.
Sorry to hear that, it sounds like there is a pattern there that's not being acknowledged. Proper oil changes are essential to longevity in an engine. Our 2004 Ford F-150 currently has 356k miles on it and it has regular oil changes it's whole life. Hopefully his bad habits haven't influenced you and you are changing your oil every 3-5k.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I was the one who got his oil changed that one time. I change mine every 5k, sometimes push it to 7k with semi synthetic.
Your daddy has cheese puff for a brain find a daddy with a brain
He sounds dumb
His daddy is a Harris voter
I have been a mechanic since 1987. There are very few people I would trust to work on my vehicles. You would be one of them. Most hacks that do an engine flush do more harm than good. Taking the time to remove the valve cover and oil pan was the right thing to do. A+++. Hopefully for that Kia, you weren't too late
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
Personally I would have driven the car after the flush and oil change for 10-30 miles, then change the oil again (using cheap oil and filter for the first change), then have the guy come back after 500 miles to change it again.
Nice job on pulling the valve cover and pan... that was a good move.
@@BradleysGarage that is a risk with letting an engine suffer, then running a flush through. The only thing sealing the engine is the carbon around the valves, and/or the sludge in the oil rings and compression rings. While this is usually attributed to high mileage engines especially as far as carbon build up goes, an unmaintained low or lower mileage engine is in my opinion worse than a high mileage engine as far as potential wear goes.
I hope the engine survives, though the owner should be prepared to accept that all you did was return the engine as close as possible to where it should be as far as internal cleanliness and the ability for the oil to reach all parts that require lubrication goes. Any damage would have already been there, just not evident.
Either way, the engine should not suffer a catastrophic failure as quick as it would have if left alone.
PS, I should say I am not a mechanic, though I have repaired, rebuilt engines, serviced vehicles and dabbled in very minor panel work (my least liked part of automotive work). I prefer diagnostics these days.
Its already ruined and the customer is a Grade-A moron. It will need a rebuild or a new engine
just putting engine flush in would have plugged the filter and even with an oil change, that flush already broke up enough to plug the filter again in a few miles, he did it right, just need to take it apart and clean it
Thank you for actually showing this. It's an eye opener. I always thought that no matter how bad the engine is clogged up, an engine flush would fix it, but this video actually shows importance of maintaining your vehicle. Sometimes people skip out on oil changes and then when they have to pay the big bucks for a new engine then it's every one else's fault but their's.
Once again thank you very much!!!!!
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. The owner is just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things.
Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. The goal will be for him to be able to change his own oil moving forward.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage love from India.....
Things have to get worse to get better, all a flush does is free up stuff that is going to clog up the pickup and over vital parts of the engine where oil should flow. I wondered in the 1st part of the video when he did the 1st oil change why he didn't take off the sump and clean that too, the 2nd part shows why this should have been done the 1st time.
That engine needed a proper engine flush, and that requires a special machine that hooks up to the oil filter housing and pumps hot oil and detergents to remove all that sludge.
Or BG Platinum Oil Flush, and that costs about $400 just for the product. @JRgo used that to desludge a Camaro engine.
I was surprised you didnt pull the pan the first time around, with that much of a build up in there. I was thinking to myself that the sludge is all going to clog the pickup, and sure enough. Other than that slight oversight, great job!
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
A good flush with kerosine, will breakup what’s in the pan, and usually clear sludge in the filter. I have had to flush engines 3-4 times in a row, in order to clear out sludge and coking. It’s cheaper than tearing down the engine, and usually works.
I have used a more diluted kerosine/oil mix (2 to 3qts oil to Kerosine) to treat really stubborn contaminations. You just have to be careful not to load the engine with the kerosine mix running through the lubrication system. I have heard of this being done with straight kerosine, although I have never done that myself.
@@tjhessmon4327 Thanks for the suggestions TJ, we will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
Conventional oil ran too long. Hard lesson for someone either cheap or going to a deceptive shop.
@@smiley3303 Not sure what Jiffy Lube uses or has used in the past on this Kia. We just wanted to try to help clean things up for this kid. Cheers!
Thanks for this video! Super cool to see under the valve cover. Was helping my sister with her 2013 1.6 hyundai accent with 155K that she owned from new. She had just gone 7k miles on her oil change and she was down about 1.5 qts on a car that only holds 3.5. Her sludge looks maybe half as bad as this car. I was still shocked since I change my old toyota oil every 5K and it never burns a drop and has zero sludge from what I can see. Not really the cars fault because it calls for 3k oil changes and it's direct injection. I'm just using 5w30 valvoline restore and protect and we will see if it can last a year or two more. Just did 2nd oil change at 1600 miles and it only burned about a tenth of a quart. Next one will be 3k and I asked her to add oil if it needs.
Thanks for sharing Brian, appreciate the feedback. We are planning on using some Valvoline Restore & Protect on our next 3k mile oil change.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
Parts - $100 labor - $15,000 :) This was a really cool project thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Jake spent about $250 for all the products/supplies used in the videos. Not sure what a shop would charge but we just wanted to try to help this young kid with his Kia. Most shops would probably tell him he needs a new engine for $4K.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage having an issue now with dealer. my 2022 pathfinder 42k miles threw off one alert for low oil pressure. the Nissan is telling me no warranty and dealer states they only swop for a new engine, didn't even mention a possible repair. Two days prior another Nissan dealer did my oil change and didn't alert me to any issues. they want 10k for new engine.
@@anthonygrillo4259 Sorry to hear about the trouble with your Nissan. I would be taking it back to the Dealer that did the oil change. You should have a 6 Year/ 60k mile powertrain warranty.
www.nissanusa.com/content/dam/Nissan/us/manuals-and-guides/shared/2022/2022-nissan-warranty-booklet.pdf
Any issues with the engine should be covered 100%. If you are not getting anywhere with the Dealer directly, contact Nissan @ 1-800-647-7261
Especially if you have documentation that two days before you started having the oil light issues it was serviced by a Nissan dealer. Keep escalating the matter until you reach a resolution.
Good luck, Cheers!
@@anthonygrillo4259many years ago my GF had a low pressure light come on, it ended up being the sending unit.
The oil may have been changed 6k miles before it came to you but clearly it wasn't getting regular changes before that, sort of impressed it survived, l like the pace of your videos, enough detail without showing every nut and bolt every time
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. Hard to know exactly how many miles since the last oil change but definitely seems like way more than 6k miles. We are thinking more like 12-15k miles sine the last oil change based on what the internals look like.
He has had it since around 30k and claimed to have changed the oil 4-5 during this period. I'm sure the cheap oil changes at Jiffy Lube did not help the situation.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage thanks for the video how ever i have 3 Toyotas and all three of Toyota gets an oil around 1000 thousand mile 1 thousand virtually every month
KIA's are notorious for burning oil. It doesn't matter what oil you put in, it burns it. Those things need a oil change every 3000 miles, no matter what.
wtf, damn you've got some money to throw in trash , mind throwing some my way?@@jameseverly8501
@@jameseverly8501 Why would you do that .-.
This video is so satisfying. Some people really don't deserve cars.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. He's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things.
Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. The goal will be for him to be able to change his own oil moving forward.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Mommy must have bought him that car.
Doesnt anyone teach their kid the basics of car maintenace anymore?
That was std when I grew up every teenager was taught that at home
If car users cannot differenciate between oil changes , toppped oil, oil quality , old oil , they don't desreve it
@@vikasshelke554499 percent of people don’t we can use this for basic things in life
I give you mad credit! You did a very thorough job of cleaning this engine. And you did it on your back. Most shops would have just written this car off. I hope the work you did actually saves this engine. In cars with vvt the controls will get cloged up and turn on the check engine light. Good work and a very good video.
Thanks for the comments Stanley, appreciate the kind words. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor long term.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
Sharp Jiffy Lube tech for catching that! Good job. I spect that filter saved the motor unless it was gummed enough to bypass. The new oil was so black after 50 miles, just as well to do your other work.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
@@BradleysGaragehow do we have proof.?
It kinda looked like 60,000 miles since the last oil change. I don't think you could build up that much sludge in much less than that. But about doing your own maintenance if possible, absolutely. Most I have had shops do were transmissions and alignments. Everything else myself, engines, rear ends etc. Once even resealed an automatic myself, knwoe nothing about it, fixed it fine. These were old cars/trucks though, everything now is way, way more complex.
@@johnl9977 That is why perform all of our own maintenance on all our cars. We do not trust anyone to work on our cars, regardless of the issue. One way or another we will figure out to get it repaired. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarageI don't blame you! I remember once taking my car to a "highly recommended garage". Did the next service myself and found they'd put the cabin filter on upside down (hence the steamy windows), hadn't put the air filter on properly and hadn't touched the oil filter.
I did my own oil change since i got my own home and place to do all the maintenance.. Its one of the life skill that will save you a ton of headaches
Thanks for the comments Fred, he's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things.
Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. The goal will be for him to be able to change his own oil moving forward.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
congrats in your home. big blessings for DIY projects. I live in a big city and live in an apartment. two solutions I have used to change my oil and work on brakes. 1) deserted commercial parking lots 2) there are businesses that rent garage spaces for DIY folks. it has lift and tool set in each isle. fancy and very convenient. I think I paid $100 for two or so hours a while back. Nowadays I just do it in a deserted parking lot I found while driving around scouting.
@@Newtttton I did the same thing when i live in apartment..
20 year olds are not kids. Most of our wars were fought by younger men than that.
I pay to have mine done because my car is a pain in the ass to work on when you've got fat hands and less than an inch of space between the oil filter and the sidewall.
It's amazing the car still ran.
That's the crazy part, you wouldn't even know there was an issue until you popped off that oil cap.
We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarageespecially when people on social media refers kia as "unreliable" . This is exceptional that the damn car still runs. I have a friend who owns a Toyota Corolla 2002 and has been using Shell helix Hx7 10w40 synthetic technology engine oil since brand new. After several oil change and nearly 500k miles, he couldn't believe that the Toyota engine would still look clean. And it's important to notice that Japanese Corollas weren't equipped with Turbocharged direct injection and in that case, eliminates the risk of low speed pre ignition caused by direct injection.
These old Corollas are tough, built like tanks and hard to kill
@@danteerskine7678 Thanks for sharing, that is great mileage for any car. A true testament in the importance of routine maintenance. Cheers!
Question. It's running... would it help to put some treatment run it a few miles etc before taking it apart be ok
Thanks for the comments Hank, they say to just let it run for 15 minutes at idle and to specifically NOT drive the car with the flush product inside. We have heard of people using trans fluid or diesel and driving for 10-15 minutes but we wanted to see how well the Liqui Moly worked.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
If he did have an oil change 6000 miles back, it was very likely the 2nd oil change ever done. You did an excellent job desludging this motor. Had the same problem on a 66 Pontiac Lemans that was worse than this motor. It also clogged the oil screen pickup after a desludge attempt and I had to jack up the motor and put a new oil pump on it.
Thanks for sharing, appreciate the feedback. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
yeah, it had a carquest oil filter. that is not OEM/
That engine compartment was pristine clean for someone who has waited that long between oil changes..
Hey Thomas, thanks for the comments. We don't like working on dirty Engine Bays so it was cleaned up prior to starting the work.
You can tell what it looked like at the beginning of the video.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Yall did an amazing job cleaning that engine bay! Like I said.. pristine clean!
Glad you had all this on video. If the owner will lie and say he changed that oil every 6000 miles, he will lie in small claims court when he tries to place blame on you when the engine fails.
Thanks for the comments Clay, hopefully it never comes to that. 99% of what we work on is our own personal vehicles. This was a favor to a 20 year kid that went to school with my son. He doesn't know anything about cars or what it takes to keep them running properly.
Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on routine maintenance.
Cheers!
I agree 100%. The “kid” (excuse #1) knows how to lie about changing the oil in 6,000 mile intervals. So he knows what he was supposed to do.
I can understand not knowing and making a mistake. I can’t understand supporting and excusing lies.
It’s definitely going to fall
No good deed goes unpunished.
Hopefully they’re thankful for that your assistance rather than trying to ‘bad guy’ for a little bit of dough.
In that case he has this video for proof
Nice channel! Was in my TH-cam recommendations. I love seeing a solid independent mechanic doing his job. Dedication is awesome to watch.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
The oil pan next time should be removed the first time to avoid the chunks clogging the oil pick up. Will probably burn oil like crazy. Marvel mystery oil is very good to clean sludge. Also you can run 500 miles before the next oil change. Hope your friend learn something. Good work!!!
Exactly what I was thinking. Needed to drop the pan before the "engine flush" and clean it, then I would have sprayed from the top again then put pan back on and do a oil flush and change the oil again.
Thanks for the comments JF. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad and would clog up the pickup tube. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We will have to check out MMO on future projects. Thanks again for hanging out, appreciate the tips. Cheers!
@BradleysGarage Brad do you recommend gti or golf r? Known issues?
You can add MMO at each oil change and run it full time, like the company suggests. Won't hurt a thing.
I highly doubt the own will ever do an oil change after that one. And this is how you destroy a perfect good engine. The more you drive, the more frequently you must do an oil change to keep that engine running like new year after year. Motor oils are only good for every 5000 miles or less depending on the types of driving conditiin environment that you're in.
I was curious to see how the oil pan looked. I am glad you got it off and cleaned inside. Some people don’t, and things get ruined.
Oil pan reveal at 16:55.
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We will monitor the engine over the next 500 miles and see if a 3rd flush is necessary. We got it pretty clean all things considered so we feel pretty good about the outlook. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers
I wish I could still do that again but after a bunch of strokes it's no longer possible 🙆 😢!!
I admire you for taking on this job! That engine was really sludged-up, possibly one of the worst I've ever seen. I think the only part that could have, in hindsight, been done better would be to immediately drain the oil from the oil pan after you cleaned off all the sludge in the top end. No doubt a lot of hard particles made their way to the oil pan, and when you ran the engine with that Liqy Moly flush along with that very dirty and sludgy oil, that probably what caused the oil pickup to become clogged. So I would have changed the oil and filter right after cleaning the top end, and ran the Liqy Moly with clean "cheap" oil and a new filter for 20-30 minutes. Then drain that and add fresh oil and a filter. Then run that for 500 miles and change again. But you were extra deep in cleaning out the oil pan and oil pickup, that really helped out that poor motor. These engines from Kia/Hyundai are well known to have problems, but when you fail to change the oil, you can't really blame the manufacturer.
Thanks for the comments LA Commander. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of a product.
We didn't have much experience with Korean cars prior to this as we mainly play around with Euro cars. We will keep tabs on this engine for a few thousand miles to make sure everything is running smooth. Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson on routine maintenance.
Thanks again for hanging out, appreciate the tips. Cheers!
@@dbonilla29869 Thanks for the suggestion, we will check out that product for our next Sludge Factory project. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I still think the Liqui Moly is a very good product, but trying to use it with that old, dirty, sludged up oil was like you said asking too much of it. Had you added the LM to clean fresh oil it probably would have cleaned out more gunk.
Yeah with the benefit of hindsight, should have cleaned the top more thoroughly, drained / replaced filter, removed the pain, clean out, reassemble, and fill / flush.
I know the temptation to hope that the drain pan pull isn't necessary, but really it should just be done in that situation.
I would have wanted to use a particle separator and a narrow wand vacuum to pull out more from the top of the engine too.
No criticism here... We have the benefit of seeing what happened after the fact. I know if I ever have to clean a sludged up engine what I'll do now... And even then there is a chance a second bottom cleaning is needed.
Common sense would be remove old oil and refill with cheap oil, after cleaning underside of engine, also. Clean pan before putting it back on
As soon as you mentioned a hit engine flush I started telling at my phone that you need to drop the pan, & inspect & clean the pickup! I learned my lesson as my '00 Jeep cherokee XJ 4.0 is still o jack stands as I ran the same engine flush, but do to work that popped up I didn't have time to remove the valve cover & remove what I could first.
It ran like a dream for 200 Mike's after the flush & oil change, but I was out of town for work on some long steep hill climbs onnthe interstate when I lost oil pressure & spun a bearing.
Thankful that's all the damage it appears I did to her, but lesson learned. I change my oil regularly (actually 5k miles) since I've owned it 2.5 years, but that still didn't account for the roughly 22 years & 220k Mike's it previously had on it.
If you do a hot flush removing that valve cover first is a great idea, as is removing the pan. I would also highly encourage treating it a 2nd time & dropping the pan a 2nd time after 50-100 miles.
I believe either I had a pan load of junk (oil wasn't chunky post flush) or more likely the sludge was loosened up & continued to break loose after the oil change. I didn't have an additive that woukd dissolve the sludge so it clogged the pickup screen. I believe it's Valvoline that has a Clean & Restore oil that seems to be really effective at removing buildup & sludge with normal driving. Not sure if that woukd have saved me or if I woukd have had the same issue.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
It looks more like 60,000 miles of oil top ups only. It would have been interesting to see what date was on the oil filter. Granted it might have been old stock and was replaced recently, though if it was older than two years old, then I would say it was replaced about the same year as the filter date stamp says.
I am impressed JiffyLube actually looked at the vehicle first and did refuse to work on it. Good call on that.
Hard to know exactly how many miles since the last oil change but definitely seems like way more than 6k miles.
We were also surprised that Jiffy Lube actually looked under the oil cap before starting any work. They must have gotten sued before for engine damage and are not taking on any liability in the future.
Thanks again for the comments, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I am on the other side of the world to you. We have spill & fills here also. They try upselling products & services, I hear they do in the USA also. I have never used them, never will. Anyway I stumbled on your channel today. I have subscribed, looking forward to binge viewing your past videos and seeing your future ones.
@@robpeabo509 We have never used them either but some people just don't feel comfortable doing their own stuff, which is unfortunate. We try to help those people out by making straight forward easy to follow videos on common repair items.
Thanks for hanging out on the channel, appreciate the support. Cheers!
Well job done 🌹
This is why I have trust issues with dealerships and shops saying they changed any fluids. Plus you have no idea if they put in the type of oil or fluids you paid for.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
Fairly simple to check if oil got changed. Pull your dipstick before you go in and then after it gets changed. Clean oil is fairly easy to spot. For the other fluids... yeah, you're right.
@@bootywarriror8793 That's a great tip for most cars with a dipstick. Unfortunately, more and more new cars don't even have one these days. They simple have an electronic sensor that displays the oil level after the car has been running for a few minutes.
Like @TheRoadWarrior said above, trust is the real concern. Find a good shop and you will be taken care of. Cheers!
always ask to see the bottles and old filter
@BradleysGarage I know most cars don't have transmission dipsticks anymore, but they are getting rid of oil dipsticks too?! Yet another reason why I will keep driving my 18 year old Jeep.
This is a good example of an owner that never changed the oil. They just topped it off when the oil was low. All that sludge is the carbon that was held in suspension that never got removed with oil draining.
Edit: I found adding 6-8 oz of archoil 9100 really helps with cleaning up the engine in between oil changes not to mention its lubricity.
Agreed, we are not buying the whole 6k oil change history. Thanks for the tip on the Archoil 9100, we will check it out. Thanks again for hanging out, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
With the amount of sludge in that engine ,you never should’ve let it go without pulling the oil pan first.
@@BradleysGarageHis idea of an oil change is just add a quart LOL He probably took 100k life away from that engine.
@@MHdollrevievs To be fair, these engines seem to have a lifespan of about 100K even normally. I'm not sure how much of that is people abusing them.
Good job, except I don't understand why you didn't prime the oil filter? It does matter.
I used to be able to do my own oil change but due to injury I have to rely on other people to do it now. I took it Jiffy Lube and Lamb's in the past but were screwed over the last time I went there. They never changed my oil even though I paid extra for the full synthetic. New oil has that shine to it, and old oil is much darker especially if you leave it past recommended change.
Sorry to hear about your experience David. We have no idea if Jiffy Lube actually changed the oil in the past or not. He has had it since around 30k and claimed to have changed the oil 4-5 during this period. I'm sure the cheap oil changes at Jiffy Lube did not help the situation.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
My biggest fear here was that the driveway was going to get ruined ! - the anxiety was strong
Thanks for the comments Rob, we try to keep things clean. Cheers!
Clowns. Mine is clowns.
That's fear not anxiety 😅😅😅
I feel the same. That driveway is worth a LOT more than that POF Kia!
Powdered Tide. Scrub it in with a tiny bit of water real good and rinse it off. Like brand new.
This guy seems clean and methodical. I like it!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
I dunno, I think the oil pan should have been dropped before the initial flush
@@xxskizzumxx: Everything should have just remained in place. He shouldn't have tried using snake oil to fix a problem that a simple oil change on top of an oil change on top of an oil change couldn't fix..
.
All that black gunk is what engine oil is designed to deal with, it has detergents in it that will GENTLY wash all that stuff away.. Just change the oil when it gets dark, then change it again.. Just like soap, detergents in oil can only hold so much "stuff", and the cool thing is that you can, for the most part, see that "Stuff" because it makes the oil dark.
.
Trying to move a bunch of junk out of an engine in one shot is just a bad bad bad idea. Even loosening that stuff in the head with a finger was a bad idea.. That could have all been washed away gently with cheap oil, in multiple oil changes.
@BradleysGarage you will be blessed for that one i promise you !
He owes you big time for spending your time and effort fixing his negligence. You are a good friend. Cheers
Thanks for the comments Mike, he is very appreciative of what we were able to do for him. He's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what it takes to keep them running good.
Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance moving forward.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGaragehe knew how to lie about it
@@jerryyoung6494it def. Wast 6k...
More like the whole life of the car....
I wonder how much was put in to top it off..???
yes saved him a very pricy engine replacement hope everyone knows that what he did is not easy, but it will work, you will not find anyone at jiffylube to save your engine like that
As someone said he probably did change the oil 6k Miles ago but it could the first and only oil change.
Great video! A tip for people who either have kias or hyundais: they both use that same oil pan. It's prone to Google transmission side so double check that it doesn't need to be bent back into place before reapplying or you're going to end up with a ton of leaking like I did.
Thanks for the feedback Eric, appreciate the tip.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
I had a similar experience with a 95 k1500 I purchased. The oil looked good but had to pull the intake to fix a coolant leak from the quick coupler on the heater return line. After removing the intake I found a big (not good) sludge surprise in the valley. I removed the valve covers and you couldn’t even see the rockers there was so much hard buildup. I decided I had to remove the pan to clean everything. I removed all the rockers and pushrods as well. I used several gallons of diesel fuel to clean everything. I put it back together and ran several flushes through before I drove it. A couple one thousand mile oil changes and then switched to full synthetic. The oil now stays amazingly clean and doesn’t burn a drop of oil.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
I had family like that, never changed oil, brakes, tires, air filters, you could see the cord through the bottom of the tires, brakes run down so low the rotors had canyons carved in them, hand fulls of dirt came out of the air filter housing, and when the oil light comes on, its time to add oil. I just laugh and shake my head.
Thanks for the comments James, we are glad we are not working on your families cars 😎
Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson here and will stay on top of the routine maintenance going forward.
Cheers!
My wife would be like this with her car if it wasn't for me.
@@Incomudro1963 When dating the women I married, her car had cord coming through the front tires, the rear brakes were gone and the oil came out of the engine like the coffee that Mrs Douglas made for Oliver in Green Acres.
They are idiots driving around in unsafe cars putting everyone else at risk...
@@jasonoshima6839 And OP just laughs and shakes his head.
This is a good reason why you should do simple maintenance yourself instead of a shop or dealer, and with 0 experience it isn’t that complicated especially in the era of TH-cam. Bonus will be peace of mind and knowledge every time you work on your car on your own.
To be fair, he's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things.
Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward.
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Modern cars usually require a trip to the dealer to reset the oil service message.
@@centralintelligenceagency9003id rather carry pen and paper.
Any reason not to remove the oil pan and check for leftover debris the first time?
Thanks for the question, looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
What a great instructional video. People need to watch this so they understand that oil changes aren't optional, they are mandatory. Oil is the "life blood" of your car's engine. Imagine letting your body's blood sludge up because you didn't listen to your cardiologist (bad foods or smoking). All that "cramp" in your system and you would be looking at a heart attack or a stroke. Hey, it's the same for your car's engine. Surprise surprise, look after engine by keeping up on your oil and car will last a lot longer. Again, a great video.
Thanks for the kind words Murray, glad you enjoyed the video. He's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things.
Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward.
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Not to get too personal, but I'm curious, did he grow up without a father/father figure in the household? That's the only way I think you can hit 20 (or really any age if you let your engine get THIS bad) as a male and still totally not know the importance of oil changes. My dad showed me how to do oil changes and how to get a proper dipstick reading myself when I got my first car at 17@@BradleysGarage
As hard as you worked on the top side, I was shocked that you didn’t drop the oil pan. Then the video continued and you had to as a return.
That would be difficult in his driveway.
Thanks for the comments. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad and would clog up the pickup tube. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We will monitor the engine over the next 1k miles and see if a 3rd flush is necessary. We got it pretty clean all things considered so we feel pretty good about the outlook.
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
@@wayneessar7489 99% of what we do is in the driveway so we are used to making that work. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Wanted to state that I really enjoyed the video. Rereading my comment and it sounded a bit harsh, that was not my intention. One small note about the 6,000 miles ago oil change. That is probably true, but that was also probably his first oil change ever in that car!
I would have dropped the pan myself the first time, if the top end looks like that the bottom end is just as bad. Same reason why I drop the transmission pans in CVTs, you have to clean up the pan and the magnets by hand. You just can't drain and refill and cross fingers.
This was easily the most informative and educational, while also the best shot mechanic/DIY videos I’ve ever seen. The perfect balance of explanation and execution. Earned a sub, great work!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Appreciate the feedback, thanks for the Sub. Cheers!
"It's expensive to change my oil every 6,000 miles as I pull up to Starbucks to order my 8 dollar DAILY cup of coffee" :)
Are you not able to use break cleaner on other metal components of the car?
I'm a computer technician, I don't normally work on cars. I use break cleaner spray on motherboards. It doesn't hurt the fiberglass or metal bits. Are metal car parts different in some way?
Thanks for the questions, we were actually using Carb Cleaner on the top valvetrain components. The goal was to get an idea of how baked on the sludge was. The main issue with Brake Cleaner on the bare metal parts is after using it the bare metal immediately starts to rust. Even with the Carb Cleaner it is still a concern although not as potent. That is why we did the diesel flush afterwards to lube up the components again.
Thanks again for hanging out.
Cheers!
I am completely flabbergasted that you didn't drop the pan before the first start up! I would have cleaned the top end really well, let all that sludge go into the pan, then drop the pan and clean it. Then I would have added oil and flush, and done a proper flush, changed the oil, done another flush in about 100-500 miles, and she would have been good to do.
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
I hope the cops were on standby to arrest that owner for willful engine neglect. CPS(Car Protective Service) as well to remove that automobile.
Thanks for the comments, we have already taken his Man Card for this willful neglect of his engine. The good news is we will keep tabs on this one for the next few thousand miles. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage At the very least, he's on double-secret probation until further notice!
We shall keep an eye on him 😜
Wow…. Please provide a vehicle update. You were very patient and thorough. Great job!
Owner got 6,000 confused with 60,000😂
Cost me $40 to change my oil and filter with synthetic oil and a quality filter. I do it about every 8K-10K miles. So far I have 250K miles on both cars. That's about $1000 per car since I have owned them. I have been deep into both engines and nothing, I mean nothing like this. I have been a mechanic for 40 years and I have never seen such neglect. Just crazy people are willing to be robbed at a dealership and then they neglect the "investment" they just made. Great job and thanks for the video.
all cars are different some can go 10,000 miles but not a kia, had a customer with an audi wanted me to go by the book, oil was 10,000 miles and it worked for that car oil was still full and looked good when it was drained a 4 cyl kia engine would have ran out and locked up lol
To be fair, he's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly. He helped with the repair so he wants to learn and understand things.
Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward.
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
All of our VW Passat TDI's call for 10k oil changes and the internals are spotless, so it really does depend on the engine and how it manufactured. Kia actually recommends 7500 mile oil interval for this little Kia, which I think may be too long for this engine based on the feedback we are getting.
Cheers!
I live in an apartment complex...can't change my oil or do any maintenance at home, and I don't have any friends or family nearby who own their homes either.
@@jimsix9929this is true, but most people will argue you can’t go 10k miles 😂 I laugh at all the mechanics that come out the wood work.
OP is right on the money, I also have written service, people will argue with me to change their full synthetic oil at 3k or 5k miles. When I try to explain that you’re wasting money, they throw the biggest fit.
Before you even said anything the first thing that came to mind was after running that engine flush the pickup tube is going to be clogged. Back in the '70s if we suspected that an engine had a little sludge, after draining the oil we would put a couple quarts of diesel down the filler hole, let it sit awhile and periodically give the car a shake. That's usually all it took it free-up the crap on the pickup tube. Also, since you pulled the pan and cleaned the pickup tube I definitely would have primed the oil filter - which I always do at every oil change anyway. I'd recommend running Valvoline Restore and Protect for the next four oil changes then switch to a premium high-milage oil.
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point.
We plan on checking out Restore & Protect on the next 3k mile oil change.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
Love the old 320 in the garage I had a 78 320i back in 83 loved that car it was a tank the car saved my life a drunk driver hit me head on on the highway . Keep up the great work and vids
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. I've had that E21 since 1992 so it's my baby. We will be doing a full suspension refresh on it very soon and adding it to the channel. We also have an S50 swap in the works as well. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
I applaud you for staying calm and getting it done right. You have saved the day and undoubtfully his engine. Whenever I take my car to the dealer, I always check the work they do. I put little scratches or marks on all the filters and check the colour of the oil when I get home. Not surprisingly, they always "accidently" miss something. Once they know you do check, they take more care.
Thanks for sharing Dee, appreciate the kind words. That is why perform all of our own maintenance on all our cars. We do not trust anyone to work on our cars, regardless of the issue. One way or another we will figure out to get it repaired. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage respect from Australia!
Often this doesn't fix oil coked rings.
Its common to mark your filter only to find out they just wiped it clean figuring you wouldnt be the wiser.
Great job with the thorough cleaning. It is messy and glad to see your efforts turned out well. This video gives conviction to changing ur oil. Thanks
Thanks for the comments George, glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
Thank you for being the only human to actually torque down the oil pan bolt instead of smashing it as hard as you can on there😮
Thanks for the comments Michael, appreciate the feedback. It seems like most people overtighten the oil drain plug. It's easy to just grab the torque wrench and make sure i's done right.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
Great video! Educational, entertaining, and enlightening. Thank you for saving this car from the brink. Those Kia/Hyundai motors are already on thin ice, so they need all the help they can get!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully we have done enough to save this motor. Not sure how much longer it would be running if he didn't bring it over the other day. We didn't have that much knowledge about Korean cars as we primarily work on Euro stuff.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Thinking here in Europe KIA gives Seven Year Warranty and Hyundai Five Year's, both sharing many similar parts and platforms, the likes of shared Engines, so in that regard they wouldn't be in business here for too long is they were making Chocolate box Engines...
Back in the 80's a friend of my Dad's stubbornly believed that all you needed to do was add oil when needed. No regular oil changes. It's good to show the damage this neglect causes when you are too lazy or too cheap to make a oil change.
I have a father n law that does this right now been doing it to all his cars almost ran out of oil few month ago check engine car almost stalled I told him change his oil.he gloates about how he never has to do oil changes and still after almost seized the engine he still never did a oil change just keeps adding he's in his late 60s
It's crazy to think that this is still something that people believe in. Like the oil will just last forever. Thanks for the comments, Cheers!
Ive heard ATF and diesel both work as alternative engine flushes. ATF is also one of the best fuel injector cleaners.
ATF is a good engine flush solution, high in detergent
We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
I do that on my wife car a few times 2 qt diesel mix with 2 qt of oil
Old school tricks still work. You never see a "DIRTY" transmission even if the fluid is burnt and the pan has a ton of friction and metal.
I'd ideal the engine a few minutes. Let it sit for a half hour, and repeat 3 or 4 times, then change the oil and filter. If it was really bad I'd do another oil change i 1000 miles.
Add some Marvel Mystery Oil and drive it two days before an oil change. MMO helps clean a high mileage motor that has generally been serviced. Do an upper cylinder soak overnight before the oil change. This would help add to the service life when the oil has been changed every 5,000 miles
as bad as the top was why did you not take care of the oil pan at the same time ?
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
I have had good experiences with various Liqui Moly products. The radiator cleaner was one. A product can only do so much, please stick with the brand. Fantastic video. Watched and subscribed
Thanks for the kind words Michael, appreciate the feedback. It was a bit of a mess a but hopefully we got cleaned up enough.
We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly.
Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
Interesting. I learned something today. I didn't think sludge like this was recoverable. I thought you were in "new engine" territory when this happens.
Same thought
It’ll run, but its life will be shortened. And it will burn oil forever
We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush (diesel/ATF) mixed with oil, depending on how things look. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage these Hyundai/Kia Theta II engines are junk anyway. Even with meticulous maintenance the will be severe oil burners after 120K or so. Faulty manufacturing
@@Maserati7200 Might be time to have him drop it off at Car Max and not look back. 😎 Cheers!
The history of this vehicle's maintenence is a huge question mark but it amazes me how many Kia owners don't maintain their vehicle's properly despite already having a bad rep for engine issues.. lol
in my opinion this is one of the biggest reasons kia/ Hyundai had this engine fiasco.. some people genuinely had a faulty engine most poor maintenance but because of the lawsuit u can go in and get a engine swap with very little push back even when it's the customers fault
All we know is he bought the car with about 30k on it and has "changed the oil 4-5 times" or so he says. To be fair he doesn't know anything about cars or what is required to keep them running good.
Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson here and will take batter care of it moving forward. Cheers!
We didn't really have any knowledge working on Korean cars prior to this. We have heard that other people has experienced sludge issues with their Kia/Hyundai motors so I'm not sure what the actual issues are.
I'm sure not really remembering when the oil was changed last is not a good sign. This doesn't happen overnight so it's been brewing awhile.
Thanks for the comments, Cheers!
@@BradleysGaragei know part of their issue is being direct inject only so the intake has to be taken off and cleaned around every 50k miles
@@bradhaines3142 Not sure what the difference is between the two engines but this one is the LX with the 1.8L MPI (Multi Port Injection) versus the EX 2.0L GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection).
Do they both have issues with carbon buildup? Not sure.
Have to look into that after we get the oil situation completely resolved.
Cheers!
Hey man good job, I once fixed a car 10 years ago with the same issue, what I did was dropped the oil then filled the engine completely full to the top with heavy-duty degreaser and let it soak for 48 hours, emptied the degreaser out, the engine internals were extremely clean after the soak, new oil filter oil and drove the car for an hour then removed the oil and filter and replaced with new, the car has been running mint ever since.
Thanks for sharing Rob, appreciate the feedback. What type of degreaser did you use for the soak?
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
@BradleysGarage 10L of heavy duty parts degreaser fill to the top of the oil fill port let it soak for 2 days then drop & refill full with diesel let it soak for a few hours then drop, then do the new oil and filter run to remove any impurities, drop and replace with new oil and filter. It Should do a good job, did for me on a engine that had coolant and water in the oil and was driven for 8 months like that, it was very gumed up so yeah. That's what I did and was impressed with the results.
@cheynnesvensen8599 Thanks for sharing, we will keep that in mind on our next Sludge Factory project. Sounds like a pretty good thing to try out.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
U know you done f up to your car if even jiffy lube refused to service your car
Thanks for the comments. I didn't even know it was routine practice for them to peak under the oil cap before even starting work on the car. Seems like they have run into this situation many times in the past and don't want to be buying another engine. Cheers!
In the future, try Seafoam and a brush to clean the sludge. I found this out cleaning up a valve cover. It didn’t have a lot of carbon buildup but was varnished. Seafoam cut through it after letting sit for a minute. Never seen anything that could remove brown varnish. No one ever talks about using Seafoam for varnish and sludge removal when cleaning engine parts.
Thanks for the tips, appreciate the feedback. We will definitely give Seafoam a try on the next plastic valve cover that is all brown and crusty. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Seafoam has worked great in my experience too. My buddy used to have an old clapped out 4cyl S-10 that ran on 3 cylinders. Threw half a can of Seafoam in the oil, let it idle 20-30 mins, changed the oil, and lo and behold cylinder 4 decided to join the party…lol! He was amazed and has used Seafoam in his cars ever since.
@@djhaloeight Thanks for sharing, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
Thanks to you and the car owner for taking care of this properly!
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
Wow, great job! I’m impressed that Kia’s engine didn’t seize up. Gives me hope for my 20’ forte. I religiously change at 5k, full synthetic. I’m at 28k miles and just put in 4 oz of Seafoam into my crankcase and then changed the oil after about 150 miles. I checked oil before and after that the seafoam and it 100% was darker. I didn’t take anything apart to inspect but I really hope my engine never comes close to this. I need this car to last me!
Awesome video with great suggestions. Many thanks!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. It sounds like you should have no issues with your Kia since you a performing the proper maintenance. We plan on doing additional oil changes every 3k miles until things are really clean inside.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
My guess is that this car has never had an oil change. Any time you need a putty knife to do an oil change the neglect is obvious.
Thanks for the comments Martin, it was a lot worse than we had originally expected. After getting that valve cover off, we knew we would be in for a fun time.
Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson in the importance of routine maintenance. Cheers!
Great video. I would recommend changing the PCV.
Thanks for the suggestion, we will take a look at that. Cheers!
I see so many cars that are smoking that are not that old. I've asked two people over the year "When was your last oil change? Your smoking. One lady was embarrassed, the other didn't care
Thanks for the comments David, hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward. The goal will be for him to be able to change his own oil moving forward.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Man, you're brave playing with all of that oil on that nice driveway 😱
We try to put drapes down and not make a mess but the wife always has something to say about it. 😎
Cheers!
It’s significantly cleaner than what it started as. I’m really curious about the further longevity of this motor and if and how much oil it’ll burn in the future
Thanks for the comments, it came out pretty well all things considered. We will keep tabs on it over the next few thousand miles. See if it is burning any oil and how things look at a 3k oil change. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
This motor probably doesn’t have much more time on the road…there’s got to stress on it because of heat and friction. I’m surprised the coolant and oil haven’t mixed by now.
The engine is actually probably fine as long as the pickup tube was clear and didn’t starve the engine. The filter will clean all the contaminants before they go into the main and rod bearings. Carbon buildup on the rings would be the biggest concern but as long as it doesn’t burn oil…
Sludge buildup on the top end in the crevices is harmless until it works down to clog the pickup tube.
@@dhc8guru that engine will definitely be a chronic oil burner
@@deplorablelibertarianthe kia motors arent great to begin with
To be fair, that could be six thousand miles post oil change... Looking at how soft the sludge on top was, it might be that this car had next to no oil changes in its life BEFORE the last one? Was this car new to the current owner?
Thanks for the comments, Chrisy. It looks like he has had the car since 30k so it might have not been taken care prior to his ownership. But we are still not buying the whole 6k oil change. Good news is we will keep tabs on it moving forward and plan on doing the next oil change at 3k. Then we will see how things look at that point. Cheers!
He probably did some of those Mobil one annual 10000 mile oil changes and claims “mOdERn oIL LaSTS 10k MilEs”
@@brianeighties4481 Unfortunately I don't think he has any idea about oil or how long it lasts. To be fair, he's just a 20 year old kid that doesn't know anything about cars or what is needed to keep them running properly.
Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward.
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
@@brianeighties4481I did 15,000 mile oil changes with Mobil 1 extended 5w-30 on our 2016 little ford connect delivery van and did oil analysis after 30,000 miles 3 times. She is at 150,000 miles but sold and still running. The van had no sludge I could see in the valve train. Just some light black varnish. Not the normal brown on a regular changed cars. A testament of good oil made for the job. Would I do it for my car, no. I have a Hyundai tuner car with a turbo/tune that gets thrashed daily, and short tripped. I dump at 3,000 miles.
@@TedTedness-wu4vb be of the problems is people don’t check the oil for 10,000 miles and it consumes oil and then they spin a bearing. The TBN numbers on the Mobil one had to be low after 10000 miles?
My son just got his license, oil change and tire rotation is the first thing I'm teaching him. Nothing lasts unless it's maintained!!
Thanks for the comments, those are fundamentals that he will need to know for a lifetime. We agree that routine maintenance is the key to longevity.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
Great video but I did get stressed out about getting oil and sludge on the nice clean driveway.
Thanks for the comments George, trust me, I never hear the end of it from the wife.😎
Cheers!
Jiffy Lube said "Yeeaah, no." Great video!
Thanks for the comments Jester, appreciate the feedback. If only we had the facial expression of the Jiffy Lube tech when he popped off that oil cap, it would be priceless. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
This is very common on all Kia models, worked for them for 3 years
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
So are you saying that KIA ENGINES, do this even with 3 to 4 thousand oil changes? Or that most kia owners don't change their oil often enough?
I saw sooo much spun bearings after using engine flush. All lifted sluge + strong solvent compromise lubricarions in tight spots. Best approach is mechanically clean what is cleanable + do several regular oil changes in short periods.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. It is always a risk to try to clean up the mess. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
Great video start to finish! You really put the time in on this project.
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
Nice presentation and thorough work, thanks for using a microphone, step above other youtubers.
Thanks for the kind words Reed, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
I was surprised you didn’t drop the oil pan to begin with when you cleaned out the valve cover.
Thanks for the comments Steven, looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
Long ago i learned the value of proper oil changes. Have been doing my own for the passed 45 years. I also only do full synthetic. Sludge just can't get a hold in the engine that way. Great primer on what can happen when not changing oil properly and most likely using the cheapest oil possible
Thanks for the comments Nicholas, hopefully Jake has also learned the importance of routine maintenance as well. We will keep tabs on things to make sure it continues to run great. We are optimistic that we have done enough to salvage the motor long term.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
BG engine flush system works well from what I’m hearing. It’s like a four step system.
Thanks for the info Steve, we will check that product out on our next Sludge Factory adventure. Cheers!
For that amount of sludge it would be better to use the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner.
That car has maybe had three oil changes in its life. When I used to work on a lot of Hyundai products this was a relatively common sight. For whatever reason, the owners of these cars almost never do the maintenance.
Demographics.
People who buy Hyundai/Kia do not research the myriad of well-documented problems and do not bother to learn how to maintain their cars either.
Lots of fathers have failed their children too.
Thanks for the insight Fishsticks, as this was our first experience with a Korean car make. Normally we play around with only Euro cars so this was a learning process.
We may never know how many miles it was since the last oil change but the bottom line is he has not taken care of the car as he should. Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson and will stay on top of the routine maintenance going forward.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@seanpop2886 some kias are reliable and good cars if you do proper maintenance on them the 1.8 liter engine on kia fortes made in their Korean plant are pretty good running engines if you take care of them, I have seen two 2014 models with over 200k miles on them and still silent running cars.
interesting comment. On the one hand I read horror stories about kia. Yet, I see posts in comments of automobile reliability videos of kia owners doing regular maint. and they boast and brag about how good the cars are. it all comes down to maint. period.
@@narutobase45 I see this contrast over and over again. kia's getting ripped in videos about how junky they are and comments from assorted kia owners who perform regular maint. boasting and bragging about their kias.
I'm curious why you didn't (1) Change the oil filter and (2) Use solvents to try to dissolve the gunk in the bottom end - before resorting to pulling the oil pan. This engine still has a boatload of sludge in it and more of it can and will dislodge and dissolve. It will take several more treatments to sufficiently clean it.
Thanks for the comments Brian. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad and would clog up the pickup tube. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We will monitor the engine over the next 1k miles and see if a 3rd flush is necessary. We got it pretty clean all things considered so we feel pretty good about the outlook. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
After removing the valve cover how did you not think to rip the oil pan off immediately?
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
Great work, keep that KIA running!
Thanks for the comments Jorge, we will try to salvage this one for sure. Cheers!
I am imagining all of the oil return holes in the piston grooves, the oil control rings, and half the galleries/bearing lube points in the engine as either clogged up or severely reduced in volume flow capabilities. I would love to see a follow up to find out how long this engine lasts before seizing, smoking/burning oil to the point of costing more than a full oil change every month. Based on poor old DIY Dave's years of experimenting with every snake oil engine cleaner/flush miracle substance there is, I do not hold out any hope for this Kia, lol.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad and would clog up the pickup tube. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We will monitor the engine over the next 1k miles and see if a 3rd flush is necessary. We got it pretty clean all things considered so we feel pretty good about the outlook. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Exactly my thoughts. Cleaning up the sludge you can see and access without a complete tear down is superficial compared to all the critical points where oil must flow without being gummed up or blocked. The engine flush chemistry is the only thing that might help, and obviously as demonstrated it has a minor impact on sludge. Kia and Hyundai are already known for engines failing after a short life, so they already have a handicap against long engine life besides forgetting to do oil changes.
My car holds 7 quarts. I change my oil every six months. It has 268,000 miles. Does not burn or leak oil. Runs perfectly and averages 25 mpg. So you know it has to be an E39 528i BMW.
Thanks for sharing David, we have never seen a BMW that doesn't leak oil. You must have a real museum piece here. 😎
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
With an engine like that after cleaning it, I would do an engine oil change every 1,000 until 3,000. Then every 5,000 depending on how the oil comes out. While typing I saw the part that you say about at 1,000 miles. Great video!!
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. We will keep performing 3k mile intervals until things are looking clean. Hopefully we have done enough to salvage the motor.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
That’s why I like the BG engine flush. Instead of breaking free those sludge particles and moving it somewhere else the BG flush dissolves it into the oil. In theory it shouldn’t clog things up
Thanks for the suggestion George, we will give that product a shot on our next Sludge Factory car. Cheers!
great product from what I've seen but expensive. Over $400 not including final oil or the 3 oil filters to do it.
@@blainelyons421 you can buy the BG EPR engine flush that is about $20 online and works in the same way. Probably won’t get as clean as the full engine flush kit you’re talking about
@@georgeparker555 Good to know, thanks for the info. Cheers!
@@georgeparker555Epr specifically states on the can to not use it on engines with sludge otherwise damage will occur
My father who died 15 years ago at the age of 95 told me that they used to drain the oil, fill with keracine, run for a few minutes, drain, fill with oil, run for 15 minutes, drain and fill again for the final. This was back in the 20s.
Thanks for the tips Shawn, appreciate the feedback. We did a little diesel flush on the follow up video.
Be sure to check out that video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
On the older engines where tolerances are greater, you could drain the oil, refill with pure diesel and run it on low rpm for 5-10 minutes, drain and repeat. I cleaned many of engines like this. I am not sure a KIA motor would be able to survive a diesel wash
@@Koala-Express Thanks for the comments, we tend to agree. We don't think running straight diesel would be a good idea on these newer engines.
We felt comfortable running the 1 liter but anything more might be risking the needed lubrication.
Cheers!
On modern motors if the oil and filter is changed on a regular basis it doesn't need to be flushed.
KEROSENE...
Good video. What do you do to protect yourself from liability in situations like this? IE, how good a buddy is he really? There just HAS to be some level of engine wear/damage from this kind of neglect. If your buddy wanted to be an a hole and come after you when it starts burning oil and fails a smog or starts running bad after you cleaned it out, what then? Seriously, if Jiffy Lube is going to turn the job away, you know it's BAAAAAD.
Thanks for the comments. The owner is a good friend of my son (they went to school together) so I'm not worried about any liability. In general, everything we do is on our personal vehicles so it's never been an issue.
We will keep tabs on the engine over the next thousand miles or so and make sure the oil gets changed every 3k to prevent any more problems. Hopefully the owner has learned a valuable lesson in the importance of routine maintenance.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
My friend had an engine in EXACTLY the same condition the only difference was that HE deliberately didn't change the oil for 30k miles (don't ask me why). I let the engine warm up then drained it ,replaced the oil filter and then refilled the engine and once it was warm i added tge Liqui Moly and let it idle for15 minutes then drained it.
I did this 4 times that day -the 3rd/4th times i told him to take it onto the bypass and cover 15 miles each way .
When he came back i added the Liqui Moly to the hot oil and then let it idle for 15 mins.
After the 4th oil/flush and refill i checked the oil after his bypass run and there were no clumps floating in his oil whatsoever .
I told him to come back after 500 miles and I'd flush it once more and i advised him to change his oil at EVERY 5k miles as specified ,but,also to use Liqui Moly flush .
When he came back after 500 miles i did the usual and refilled the oil and changed the filter.
The total for just the consumables of the initial 4 oil oil changes/flushes weren't cheap ,but,as i explained to him -"i haven't charged you for labour just the parts - you should think yourself lucky that you're not paying £2k for a new engine plus labour mate". He very quickly saw my viewpoint .
Thanks for sharing, it sound like you helped a friend out and saved him a bunch of cash. Hopefully he has learned a valuable lesson on the importance of routine maintenance on his car moving forward.
Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
It never ceases to amaze me how people neglect oil changes. A regular customer rang me and told me he had a wrench light come up on his dashboard. When I told him it meant the car was due a service and oil change he actually said to me "but I did it a year ago"! He thought I was joking when I told him you're supposed to do it annually and oil changes twice yearly. 🤦
Thanks for the comments Andrew. That is why 99% of what we work on is our own personal cars. I can't imagine owning a shop and dealing with these issues on a daily basis.
We got enough to mess around with just on the family cars. Cheers!
I thought oil changes were quarterly (every 3k miles).
@@chrisgastlike anything in life, the truth is never captured in simple rules like “every 3k miles or 3 months”. These are loose rules of thumb, that vary based on the motor, driving conditions, oil quality, and countless other things. Read your owner’s manual to get a general idea and err on the side of caution.
What car needs to have oil change twice a year? (Assuming normal driving, not company car with tens of thousands of miles per year)
Some newer vehicle maintenance manuals call for oil changes with synthetic oil every 10,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first. Synthetic oil and a good filter will not sludge up at that mileage unless short trips (less than, say, 8 miles, depending on ambient temperature) are the norm.
I change my vehicle's oil every year with Mobil 1. No vehicle is driven more than 5000 miles during any given year.
One word for this video. Excellent. Now I want to see the repair bill. 😂😂
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Most times this is only done for friends because of the liability
@@mrmarcink1300 It was definitely taking a risk getting this cleaned up for this kid. Hopefully we did enough to salvage the motor.
Not doing anything would leave him in a much worse position for sure.
Cheers!
If that is what the interior looked like, think of what the area behind the oil rings are like on the pistons. I would bet that he now has a pretty good oil consuming engine.
I know gasoline is a great cleaner, but there are other things far less volatile and nowhere near as carcinogenic or flammable to use, especially in your driveway! One good spark from someplace and your face is toast.
Thanks for the comments Loyd, appreciate the feedback. We will check on the engine after a few hundred miles to see if it's burning any oil or has any other issues. We may need to do an additional flush depending on how things look.
The gas trick was passed down from my Pops many years ago. It seems these old habits are sticking around. We will switch to diesel for our next video, as we don't need any burnt faces over here.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarageYeah, ask Jay Leno how much fun it is to have gasoline burning off your face.
@@BradleysGarageWhy not Kerosene. A good compromise between gas and diesel, as diesel can still be a little oily and stubborn as a cleaner.
Kerosene is what I've used 👍
I tried to clean a valve cover with todays gasoline. It didn't clean like the real gas of 30-40 years ago. I use carb or brake cleaner now. @@StephenHarristnt
Idk how you're doing work in a nice neighborhood, I love it, the way it should be. Also, I'm insanely impressed with you or your teams ability to respond to so many comments.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Since we live in a cul-de-sac we don't really have any trouble from the neighbors. We try not to leave anything apart for more than a couple days. It is nice to be able to work on things in your driveway. Someday we will build the dream garage we have been wanting for years now.
We made it our goal to respond to each and every comments for our videos. This particular video was extremely challenging, especially in the early days, since the daily views/comments were pretty insane. A few sleepless nights and we have been able to stay on top of things.
Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
This was simultaneously horrifying and entertaining. Also a good demonstration on how a flush can possibly go "wrong" with the pickup clogging and oil pressure issues later - there is a risk to doing this. I'd want to do a compression test ASAP to see if any damage has been done, and may need a piston soak and additional cleaning cycles afterwards to unstick the oil control rings. If compression isn't too bad, it might be worth saving by getting a BG cleaning done on it ($300+!) but they only sell it to shops and suppliers.
Thanks for the comments Garen, appreciate the feedback. We will look into that BG product as our neighbor owns a shop in town.
Looking back we probably should have just removed the oil pan when we first took off the valve cover. After seeing that much sludge on the top, it was inevitable the pan was just as bad. We were hoping the Liqui-Moly flush would break that down some but I think it's just too much to ask of any product.
We did a little diesel flush (off camera) with the oil pan off to wash out any debris in the tight areas of the engine and holes. That produced quite a bit of particles so we feel pretty good that the internals are clean at this point.
We will monitor the engine over the next 1k miles and see if a 3rd flush is necessary. We got it pretty clean all things considered so we feel pretty good about the outlook. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Oh gosh, using a strong solvent is a bit scary to me. In my HS shop class, one of my classmates did this (replaced the oil with diesel) and blew up the engine and spent the rest of the school year rebuilding it. 🙃 Sounds like these Korean cars don't have a solenoid filter screen so not as big a risk of clogging. I know folks who do swear by Liqui-Moly flush, but they are using it with every oil change, and I'm sure it's designed for safety so not going to be able to really move the needle with something like this - will help over the long term. Anw great video, kudos to keeping a positive attitude, and Merry Christmas! Subscribed.
Yeah bg is good
Good work! It amazes me how people allow a newer car to get that abused. You did a good job going through this and it looks like you were able to save the engine. The one thing I would always do though is to refill the oil filter as it helps build oil pressure quicker than leaving it empty.
Thanks for the kind words Jim, appreciate the feedback. Hoping it works out for this young kid since he really doesn't have the first clue what it takes to service a car properly. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage It's too bad that high schools don't offer auto classes like they used to decades ago.
@@jimsgaragetoys The only thing they currently offer in our school district is Woodworking. They are not even going to know what a screwdriver or a pair of pliers is.
We will try to educate them one at a time if need be. There never seems to be a shortage of cars that have been neglected. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
Prefilling oil filter is frowned upon due to possibility of introducing engine damaging material into engine. An engine can handle that 1 second without lubricant when it has oil on parts already. If you do refill, you should only be doing so from outer holes.
@@NathanGrant75 How are you going to introduce damaging material from a new filter and new oil? I've always been told from serious engine builders and oil specialists to pre-fill an oil filter. The faster the engine has oil pressure the better, no exceptions.
It's possible they changed it but they used high paraffin oil like Quaker State. Back in the '70s I pulled the valve cover off of our '71 Opel 1900 and there was a quarter inch of paraffin on the top. Looked like vaseline. The rocker arms and such looked ok though. I think it just solidfied on the relatively cooler cover. And we changed our own oil so I know it was done. Always used Quaker State. Never again after that though. Anything made with Pennsylvania crude is high paraffin because Pensylvania crude is high paraffin.
Hard to know exactly how many miles since the last oil change but definitely seems like way more than 6k miles. We are thinking more like 12-15k miles sine the last oil change based on what the internals look like.
He has had it since around 30k and claimed to have changed the oil 4-5 during this period. I'm sure the cheap oil changes at Jiffy Lube did not help the situation.
Cheers!
Had a customer came in like this. Never changed oil on 2006 accord clocked 92k kms before low pressure oil came.
Did flush with diesel engine oil and brake fluid for 5 times with around 1hr mixed rpm between the flush.
Came out clean and no issue whatsoever. Came 1 year later for timing chain replacement, internal looks good
Thanks for sharing, hopefully we have done enough to salvage the engine. Be sure to check out the follow up video here - th-cam.com/video/XFsHnrt0l3w/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
My daughters 2016 Kia Forte has 210,000 miles on it and still runs great😂 that's definitely a minimum of 20,000 Mi without an oil change but those engines will run forever because they have a timing chain and not a belt. I have changed my 2023 Kia Forte oil every 5,000 miles since I got it
Thanks for the comments, hard to know exactly how many miles since the last oil change but definitely seems like way more than 6k miles. We are thinking more like 12-15k miles sine the last oil change based on what the internals look like.
He has had it since around 30k and claimed to have changed the oil 4-5 during this period. I'm sure the cheap oil changes at Jiffy Lube did not help the situation.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage