Meet The Man Who Saves Cars From Rust For Under $100
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Everyone agrees that rust is the #1 killer of Toyota trucks so in today's video, I take my 4Runner to rust prevention expert, Jim Houghton. We talk about the process and answer a bunch of common questions about oil spraying.
Mention Canadian Gearhead at Houghton Rust Control for a discount ;) houghtonrustco...
(Correction: the price is $99.91 cad)
Sign up for Gearhead Grinds - my FREE weekly email newsletter: canadiangearhe...
Sign up for the Gearhead Grinds newsletter here: canadiangearhead.com/newsletter
It's almost AMAZING how everything is hyped as a SPECIALIZED talent or service in The West, whereas in Africa, this has been done. Every car wash 4 times a year, and they spray oil on it. DON'T MAKE A BIG DEAL ABOUT IT , I.E CHARGE YOU AN ARM AND A LEG. 😅
Flat earth is a motherboard 🤖
No vehicle should be sold in those kind of environments without having rust treatment included. I don’t understand why people put up with that for so long.
included or not, its not a one and done. its an annual treatment
Oh…you can buy extra protection from the dealer but it’s a crap product. Better to go to third party product like Krown.
@@666dynomaxgas stations use to do this. Back in the day when they had attendants and full service. Spraying oil on cars to protect them from rust was a regular routine.
@@rzrzrzrzrzrzrzrzrzrzrz did they use old motor oil? mix it with anything? good treatment really to do something to save them!
@@666dynomax damn near more important to be washing your vehicle, its a up hill battle in the winter but washing the salt off is important. I bought a pressure washer under vehicle spray bay, it's the ticket to quickly blast the under side.
My dad have been rust proofing once a year for the past 14 years from brand new. He haven't changed a rubber bushing because the oil is lubricanting the rubber. I recommend rust proofing to everyone. Shout out Houghton Rust Control for answering frequently asked questions. Thank you
Oil degrades rubber. Soon that rubber will be mush if oil is getting on it.
@@bigfootnmore6619so you’d rather spend possible thousands on rust repair and dealing with seized bolts etc. than replacing a 20 dollar bushing. Besides I’ve very very rarely actully see any harm from spraying on rubber. And like I said I’d rather replace every rubber bushing ever 5 years then deal with rust
@@dylansmith697as a car ages, it's the mechanical parts that usually wear out before the body is bad enough that I sell it. I live in Minnesota and even here something major mechanically will fail ending the life of the car before rust ruins in.
@@bigfootnmore6619 It's not real rubber. It is synthetic TPE, or neoprene or some other material made to withstand oil and grease. Think of all the "rubber" that is constantly in contact with oil or grease on a car, like gaskets seals , axle boots, etc.
@@dylansmith697 I live in Minnesota and totally disagree. You can find 5-year-old cars with visible rust,, even if they have low miles. By ten years, they have holes through the body, without any rustproofing. This decreases resale by a huge margin. . I drive a 2008 with I rustproof religiously. It has 150k and zero rust.
My son has a 2009 F350 that was used as a plow truck. The rust has almost destroyed it. He was just looking at trucks in texas that age with zero rust. His would be worth 10k more if it were that clean. The transmission is good for at least 100k and the diesel engine will go at least 300kMy son has a 2009 F350 that was used as a plow truck. The rust has almost destroyed it. He was just looking at trucks in texas that age with zero rust. His would be worth 10k more if it were that clean. The transmission is good for at least 100k and the diesel engine will go at least 300k
We live in the northwest rust belt. My 07 Tundra had 310k, very little rust. The nearest car wash is 30 miles away. So, i hooked our house water supply to the outsie hose, hot/cold. I wax twice a year and rinse/wash everytime any salt is visible. I will lay on the ground and spray everywhere until the water comes out clean. I also removed the bed and epoxy coated everything front to back. Works great!
That's dedication! I just got a used Subaru from 05, very little rust. Amazingly little, actually. High miles, and lots of interior wear, supposedly the old guy loved it til he died. I'm trying to go DIY, since around here, its $200-400 for the first application...
Insanely good advice. I’ve oil sprayed my GX since new (2020), not a spec of rust anywhere underneath nor on top. In addition, spray in the engine bay to prevent bolts from rusting and seizing. Also hinges can rust as well, so I keep it fully rust free by spraying those. In the GX the pop up rear window hinges rust out very quickly.
I also spray behind the brake discs and on the brake lines to prevent rust when servicing the car.
I’m still traumatized from my first car, a ‘94 4Runner losing its engine on the road from rusted out engine mounts so that will NEVER happen to me again.
Went here myself today after I watched this video a few days ago. Great people who respect you and your vehicle. Highly recommend them.
He is a pretty accomplished grid life race driver.
I just had my Tacoma wool wax coated and they did all the door panels tail gate fenders hood etc. with a fluid film type product. When I first bought the truck I had all the done with rubber undercoat that held up pretty well and all the inside stuff. After 7 years it was time for it again.
For surface rust,I like to spray it with Rustoleum Rust Reformer. It oxidizes the rust and turns it black. No need to paint over it. Works great on brake rotors.
Agreed! Amazing stuff.
it reduces the rust, opposite of oxidation.
I use grease on break rotors, makes them less noisy.
@@Booyamakashi Repeat daily.
Nice vid, but just wanted to let you know that wool wax, fluid film, and surface shield are all lanolin-based. Lanolin is non-toxic and is literally used in skin cream and lip balm. This guy is right that lanolin is more expensive than what he is using, but not 6 times more. There are some great videos on lanolin products; the Repair Geek channel in particular has some multi-year tests of it.
Boom. This.
Lanolin itself is not toxic but it is very often mixed with naphtha that is toxic. Anyway i agree lanolin is the best way to prevent from rust. I mix lanolin with naphtha making my own fluid film, i also add a little bit of beeswax to make it last longer.
I tried WW instead of Krown which has damaged the rubber and plastics on my vehicles but the clowns sprayed my hood struts and destroyed the boots so they don't seal and told me that a big hunk of grease they had was from my ball joint on a sub 30k kilometer vehicle with sealed ball joints.
I just fluid filmed my 06 Tundra today actually. It's a 1 owner PNW truck, with very little rust. But it's gonna see more winter use on the way to ski areas and snow, so I'm making sure it stays nice. Good reminder for the inside of the rockers.
That truck and my Tacoma easily take 3 cans. $10-15 per.
This is the way!
tapping in with +1. Fluid film twice a year, when I change tires from summer to winter and vice versa. Whatever I can see/access from the wheel wells and underneath.
I cannot see how a Tacoma would only take 3 cans. I put tracks on my ATV for the winter, and it takes almost 2 full cans of Fluid Film to coat everything nicely around the suspension, frame and steering components. It is great stuff. But you would probably need 15cans to do a Taco if you want proper protection. It is worth every penny tho. Buy a cheap undercoating sprayer for air compressor and buy the jug of Fluid Film.
I own my own tow truck company and have taken thousands of cars to the junk yard and i can tell you one thing that i always noticed the cars that had stickers on them that said ''rust check'' or some other kind of bs rust treatment were always the most rotted out and had the most rust. My tow trucks after the Canadian winter i pressure was the under sides and go crazy with a case of fluid film ,amazing how it keeps them protected.
I do the same thing, rinse the crap out of my truck under carriage with a pressure washer and spray with a case of rustoleum
No respirator is crazy. That place was FOGGING up!
Drill hole, spray WD-40, get money
@@NoNORADon911 that's not wd-40.
@Dadhenley Do you wear a respirator walking around NYC? That place is fogged up!
what's not killing us makes us stronger 💪
@@babaganushsky Yeah, no lol
i did this to my FJ in my garage without lifting it and it suuuuuuuuucked. Spent like 5 hours covered in grease. But she's protected. I live in washington state and oil spraying is not common but roads ARE salted here and there. My local shop charges $600 for black woolwax. I DIY for $100 but my car has very little surface rust and it's mostly clean so I think it's good enough.
What did you use? Idk if anyone near here that does it would like to start doing my vehicles myself.
@@rallysport4207 There are several good products out there. Fluid film, Woolwax, Krown, Rust Check, Surface Sheild, Rust Cure 3000 etc.. Take your pick, they all work well.
Something is usually better than nothing 🤘
@@rallysport4207@11:40 he made recommendations for diy applications, fluid film and wool wax I believe are what they spoke about.
@@rallysport4207 it's usually a lanolin based product
Great video! Happy customer chiming in after over a decade of Houghton Rust Control keeping my 07 FJ rust free. Thanks for the great chuckle at the end. 😂
I just bought an FJ, located in kitchener. Spent 5 hours in prepping the undercarraige and then did the fluid film myself. I was thinking to go to this place from next year. Do you wash the undercarraige before you go to houghtons?
@@savjottoor7910 Great to hear! I'm the second owner on my 07 and just hit 415km. The undercarriage needs to be dry in order to apply the coating therefore they can not apply the product if it is raining on the day you plan to go. But generally I power wash the undercarriage throughout the winter after salt is applied just to get the salty slushy mix off the chassis.
I do mine every fall, can say it saved my vehicles being rust belt Midwest USA
Glad to hear the myths answered by Jim. Trying to keep my rust free import still rust free even with winter driving, been thinking about undercoating (who, where, how often, what type, etc) more than anybody should need to lmao
I've been a customer of Houghtons for 20 years. Never miss a spray! Highly recommend, best in the business!
Great video! I had the same water leak on my '03 Limited and ended up with the same hole in the floor on the driver's side. it was coming from the top of the windshield. Bent back the top windshield trim and added automotive silicone sealant. No more leaks!
Nice, I'll check that out!
That is absolutely an AMAZING price for the work and quality that is done here. They really take their time and make sure every bit of that car is covered, and thats what youre paying for.
Was thinking about getting this done on my 4th gen this week before the salt gets too bad. This video came right in time and I am definitely doing it now.
The people who believe undercoating accelerates rust are talking about the rubberized product that hardens. Not oil spray.
Correct. I've seen some frames sprayed with Line X and it just traps moisture underneath
I’ve found that the Ziebart undercoating on my XJ has softened from subsequent Fluid Film applications. Most of it has sloughed off with the pressure washer in the spring
Just got New Hampshire oil undercoating done today on my 2021 tundra V8. Need it to last forever!
Nice 4Runner! Yes, I had a used 97 Camry that had 265,000 miles, ran like a top, but rusted out. I live in the rust belt N.E. part of USA. ANY undercoating that "weeps" is good. I now own a 2019 Prius that I pay to have retouched annually using fluid film type coating & it looks great.
PS. Please clean those leaves out of your cowl area. 🤓👍🇺🇸
Great interview and helpful advice. Thank you. On a side note, DIY is much easier with the 5 gallon Fluid Film, a compressor and the WoolWax Pro gun kit that includes the wand. Allows you to get in all those inner areas.
Krown I’ve also found do a good job. 9 year old Impala with not a spec of rust on it! Never missed a year spraying it
+ on Krown, been going for over 7 years now
I wire wheel it and use rust converter it takes about a full week for me to do a full complete job and I used 2 coats I take off all the wheels as well . I let it cure for 2 weeks then I use a brush for the fluid film in the wheel well and spray the frame
We need this service in every town in Alaska big time!
That guy is doing more damage then good. For $100 he’s not sandblasting, degreasing, priming then protective coating. He’s sealing up rust which is worse
Excellent video - you have to love a family owed business like this - wish it was closer
Cheers
He says Fluid Film is extremely expensive. That may be true if you only buy it in cans but is relatively affordable when bought in bulk. Either way in the end I’ll take the cost over a rusted out hunk of metal. Even a half dozen cans is worth it rather than doing nothing and letting the salt completely destroy your vehicle.
I've found by leaving the lighter surface rust in place when coating with oil it actually enhances the coverage by allowing the oil to penetrate it and hold more oil to the surface. The heavy clinkers, if any, should be removed and ground down.
Glad to find a guy near Guelph I can send family too. I have two farmers north of Oshawa that oil spray for the same reasonable rate, $90 cars, $100 trucks, they charge more for trucks because they remove the tail lights and run the long wands inside the the rear fenders. You mentioned wax spray, forget it, if it doesn't drip it doesn't work. Good to see you dropping the spare tire same as I do. I also get a brush and clean off the inner wheel wheel lips where mud sits and blocks the oil. All of you car owners (especially Honda) need to get under the rear wheel liner and get the mud and salt out of the area where the bumper is screwed to the body those cheap screws and speed clips are not usually stainless steel and rust a hole behind the rear wheels, I packed moms Honda Accord full of grease on that bad spot and it was rust free 25 years later. My 2000 Blazer and 2005 Vibe still look great thanks to regular oil spray.
Where is this spot? Please and thank you
The wool wax creeps and it has staying power. I spilled some on a driveway two years ago and it's still there after several feet of precipitation and baking sun.
I remember my father getting undercoating in our 1949 Studebaker and 1959 Chevy wagon.
Modern cars are incredibly rust resistant. Plastic fender liners, full body chemical dipping.
Thanks for the useful info. I never even knew a service like this existed. Big help for all of us that get snowy nasty salty conditions!
No need to drill holes in the rockers of a 4Runner or Land Cruiser. Just pop the plastic trim plates and you have all the access you need to soak the rockers.
I’ve been going to Houghton for years. Definitely worth it.
Very very important!
My 4th gen was taken by the orange killer. Damn shame too, probably ~80% of it was fine; pretty good even. But right around where the rear trailing arms attached, as well as the rear end, was completely gone.
Most important is the parts that are structural. Suspension, drivetrain mounting subframes. Some body rust is cosmetic and will not cause driveability issues. My vehicle has no body rust but the front subframe has very bad rust on passengers side. I decided to apply fluid film to prevent further deterioration.
I live in a place where they thankfully do not salt the roads. It's a godsend not having to worry about that nasty sh|t.
Yeah, but you don’t get to experience the snow!!! ❄️
@@daakrolb I live in a place where silly city politicians do not live, so rational people understand that you got to drive according to the conditions. Most accidents(even the worst one's) happen during summer. Why spend so much time and energy(and money) at so called safety. It's an illusion, and training wheels got to come off at some point. People just got to learn how to drive just like anything else.
There's winter 7 months a year where I live, so we got snow, that I can guarantee you.
@ Then you must never get ice, somehow.
@@daakrolb They scrape the road from time to time, but even when it's icey you get used to it like everything else. Just make sure you got good tires and AWD as a minimum.
There's also no streetlights where I live and you get used to that as well. It's funny to see tourists driving here though, because they either got shitty tires or no faith in them because they drive super slow.
Personally I use Michelin X-Ice North 4 which is pretty good studded winter tires, and my car has AWD. I was out driving yesterday on very icey conditions and it's no problem at all. With proper equipment and practice you get used to everything. You get used to it because you have to, as simple as that.
Bro TO THIS DAY, your website is useful to me. Goat!
MAN... I wish I could get this done in MI for 100 bucks. Almost worth it to drive up to Houghton Rust Control from here. I'll just figure out how to spray fluid film, heat it up? and then do all my vehicles.
Did fluid film myself 5 gallon pale does 5 vehicles for two years….. cost me $190 and a day out of one weekend a year. my vehicles range from 2014-2018-2023 and not a lick of rust anywhere. Fluid film is a great product if you do it when the vehicles are new they stay that way for a long time. If you keep your vehicles you may as well do this maintenance.
I am guessing your in the states as the prices I see for a 5 gallon pail and only a few industrial outlets would even carry it in that size, its well over 500.00 a pail. Otherwise its possible to find it for as little as 100.00 for a 1 gallon bucket in some stores. Surface shield as another product, the Blaster company has only recently started distributing their product in the aerosol can and they do NOT ship the bulk product into Canada. Anything like the application guns are hard to get and cost at least twice of what they do south of the border. I have been calling around in the most major city in northern Alberta and I hear the same old story that someone "used to spray rust prevention fluid" but they closed or quit doing it etc. There was one body shop that used to do a fluid type spray and they quit doing that. The only place I found so far that does an undercoating is the tar crap I call it that looks good initially but then cracks and the salt and calcium chloride get behind it and rust out the vehicle far worse than if the vehicle had never been touched form new. So my plan is to try and do it myself the best I can but with no lift I can see that being all sorts of fun and do not want to do it in the garage as it would get on everything. I had bought the only somewhat usable canister spray gun with a couple of hose attachments that anyone even handles around here period, and see how that works come summer when its warm enough outside.
@ my spray gun is 20 years old. Works like a charm I. Make my own flex hoses and tips as the initial ones wore out and broke over the years…. You can find the fluid film in 5 gallon pales in Canada not sure the prices but I’m sure there are deals to be had. I usually look for seals in late spring and summer , like any distribution place they hike prices in peak seasons. No matter the price it’s a good investment especially if you plan to keep your vehicles a long time…… good trick is make sure you warm up the media before spraying I do mine in the summer and let it sit out in the sun it sprays better, use around 18psi on my sprayer and it creates a nice fine mist.hopefully you find a decent price and set up that works for you.
@@ruckinehround6965 I was hoping as well that I would find a more economical price on the 5 gallon pail but I get the feeling the theme is different up here or at least where I live in Canada as no typical retailer carries the large pails period, and industrial supply places rarely have sales on anything as its geared for a different market. Never the less I did grab some 1 gallon pails that had a bit of a sale through a store so do have some to get started with. Speaking of that undercoating kit I bought at NAPA, the hoses are made from nylon I believe as they seem very much like the horrible mind of their own nylon air line that is used on highway tractors. I had to use a heat gun to try and straighten out the curled up extension hoses. This air gun has a special quick coupler for the extension hoses and I wanted to find more male tips to make up longer hoses but so far I can't find anything like this, obviously someone makes it ( it looks like a miniature type M coupler as the best way I can describe it. Until I get fluid film in it I won't know how it sprays and was part of the reason I wanted to find Surface Shield as its thinner and might spray better and can actually get it into this sprayer as its canister does not have a large mouth on it so that will make getting the fluid film into it interesting !. By the way what were you making the tips out of to have something that was small and also with a barb etc on the back end to fit into a new hose ?
@@charlesb4267why can't you order it off of eBay or Amazon that's where I order my fluid film and woolwax from and like the other gentleman said do it closer to the springtime I usually end up paying about $190 bucks at the most for my fluid film and usually not more than $220 for my woolwax black and that's always free shipping American dollars
@@charlesb4267 You can straighten nylon or plastic hose by putting it for a minute in boiling water and then hang it on clothes line or some hook or gripping device (vice,...) and on the bottom end you hang grip pliers for weight.
Great video. I religiously spray my Toyota’s from new here in NS. Such a rusty environment here on the coast. Use rust check myself. Kleen Flo honey goo in areas that get blasted with salt.
I want that red MR2!..... i had one, and it was 1 of my favorite cars ever!
seems like a supe chill guy, will take a visit to his shop for a coating
I live in kw too. After watching this I will take my truck to Jim as well. Thank you for the video
Spray all your rubber and bushings with AT-205 to keep them supple. I use that and Cosmoline black for rust prevention.
Looks beautiful, it's gonna last a long time. Unfortunate manufacturers don't offer this sort of service for salt belters for the first five years of the vehicle or something.
Been going there for 20 years👍
Thank you very much!
do you wash the undercarraige before going there? Also, what time of the year do you get it done?
this shop is like 15 mins from me, definitely bringing my truck in. it needs this kinda treatment
Same, only 8 hours away for me
I scored a completely rust free 20 year old WJ Cherokee from Florida. I’m talking not even one bolt head with a fleck of rust on it. When my last Cherokee went off to farm truck retirement, I noticed the only spot on the entire vehicle that wasn’t rusted, was where the oil leaked. Boom. Epiphany. Been getting my “new” one oil sprayed every year since. Like, spend $140 a year, or watch your vehicle rot to the ground in 7-10 years? Your choice.
This is cool! I'll have to send this to some friends that live in snowy areas. I used to work in auto parts and sold rust converter in a spray and paint on style. It works really well, I used it on a damaged spot on a Jeep I had and didn't paint over it, and it took several years for the rust to start showing again. If you used that along with the oil spraying, you could definitely add on some years to the body.
Vermont farmers spray used brake or used hydraulic oil on vehicles, recycling it and spending nothing on any special oil. It sticks to metal and works great.
Wouldn’t used brake fluid eat the paint defeating the purpose?
Good point, but they apply used hydraulic oil to unpainted chassis metal only, suspension parts, etc, or parts already showing rust. The rust actually absorbs oil better.
The problem is that brake fluid and hydraulic oil is too thin to last a whole winter. I'm guessing you'd need to respray about once a month. If you could thicken it up with something (like melted vaseline or wax), you'd have a good product.
Great way to make the local welder rich
Used brake fluid? I was replacing a brake line in my Mercedes and a little Fluid dripped down on a control arm and the paint bubbled right off. I would not spray brake fluid on the car, or anything for that matter.
I had a 2000 Acura 1.6 EL that lasted until 2018 with minimal rust. I treated it for the first 3 years or so with a waxy type of product. I was told steel is much better lately so that stops rust more than any treatment. You can see this with Mazda lately. In the early 2010s they rusted out in 5 years but my 2018 doesn’t have a spot of rust.
It's not steel that's the problem. It's the cheap galvanization process that some companies choose to use. Ask yourself how many Audis and Porsches you have seen that were rusty. Even going as far back as like 1986. Honda and Toyota have cheaped out on the galvanization process, and my Toyota is rusting away as we speak, even though I wash it regularly. Whereas my German cars don't have any rust in the same conditions.
Chris from Saskatchewan, I was bidding on a Toyota land Cruiser, what year was 2006 and McDougall auction last year and I couldn’t pass inspection so I kept on getting returned because the frame was totally destroyed from material car. All it takes is a little bit of care for your vehicle people. Please wash your car and take care of your car if you’re making $800 a month payments it’s an investment keep that investment up.!!!
Chris from Saskatchewan I worked at a Polish mine and I drove my six-year-old Dodge power waggon there and it resolved because of the ionization in the atmosphere so I would actually look into something that could stop the electrons like a zinc bar! If I was gonna buy a new vehicle that I love, I would look into installing a zinc bar or some type of system to reduce the electrons attaching to the surface that says what’s happening
I have an '07 4Runner, and it looks scary or it has for over 10 years, and I have done nothing in the way of prevention. I think it's just surface rust, and it doesn't look compromised at all. I even transport my Ninja on a 600lb capacity bike rack.
My driveway has an incline and have left the car outside all of NY winters. I think parking it on an incline allows it to drain any standing water. I'm at this point afraid to do anything to it.
I wish there was a coating guy as good as him in my area.. Places in my area charge 2x as much and are half a thorough!
Use a cold galvanizing spray. Sacrificial Zinc is what the rust will attack instead of your steel.
Just discovered your channel. I live in Hamilton and I appreciated watching your video. Cheers man.
Appreciate you!
Had my 4runner done at Krown since day 1. It’s not perfect but it’s pretty good for a 2018. Considering where I live they dump salt like it’s going out of style.
I still have rust spots underneath but I don’t think you can stop it 100%
These videos are always... "interesting" when viewed from a certified and trained perspective. I was a 310B certified body man in Ontario for 20 years, a 6G certified TIG welder (stainless, aluminum & titanium), and a BASF Glasurit Certified Porsche refinish tech (painter) for 10 yrs, in the Greater Toronto area. I've worked on everything from civics to ferrari's and everything in between.
1) as soon as you drill into body panels, and do not prime / paint (refinish) those drilled areas, you cause corrosion. A plastic cap, or wax type application - will not prevent bare metal (which drilling exposes) from corroding. What you've actually done is destroy the multiple layers of corrosion protection applied at the factory, and expose bare metal at the edges of the drill hole. The inside will rust first, because normally the areas drilled are internal drainage areas - and by the time you see it on the outside - you'll need a sectional or complete replacement. Nowadays on a basic corolla that will cost thousands for a correct job - when we are talking about a fully loaded Merc or Porsche.... it'll probably write off the car. Drilling holes is NEVER necessary - rust proofing techs do this because they are trained to do it... for speed / profitability purposes. Modern vehicles ALL have DOZENS of plastic body / drainage port plugs, all over the damn vehicle. But it takes 10 seconds to take those off, vs 1 second to drill. Drilling is NEVER necessary - and if your "rust proof" tech insists on drilling... I'd take that as a solid sign to walk away. If they come back at you and say "well I can't reach that area without drilling" - unfortunately that's a lie, or a lack of knowledge - there are things called "spray wands" that are flexible and come in various lengths; these are used to gain access to remote areas WITHOUT drilling. I'm not recommending it at all... just giving you the knowledge.
2) oil builds up in crevices with repeat applications year after year, because of gravity; the oil does not stick and hold in place.... it drips down and pools. This is why you have to keep re-applying every 6 months or every year. Dirt then sticks to the pooled oil (which gunks up to a gel like consistency over time). moisture is held to the metal by the dirt. and corrosion follows. I had to replace two quarter panels on a shelby mustang, because there were two cavities in the trunk that filled up with "rust proofing" oil, it hardened slightly to a gel like consistency, blocked the drainage passages when dirt stuck to that, and water sat there against the metal. Another example: it was very common on Mk4 - Mk7 VW Golf and Jetta, where the front and rear wheel wells would fill up with oil in a specific spot, dirt would stick to the oil (a lot of dirt, due to the location of the wheel well), moisture would attract and be held in by the dirt, more dirt would stick, more moisture would be held in, and the front and rear rockers would rust out. If these areas were allowed to drain, as the factory intended, this would not happen - as is evident on my MK4 R32, which is spotless.
3) certain vehicles should NEVER be rustproofed; it WILL devalue the vehicle. For example - German vehicles get completely dipped multiple times in magnetically adhered coatings, and then sealed, primed, and refinished with 2.5 coats of colour (for 2 stage finishes) and 2 heavy coats of the best quality automotive clearcoat on the planet by BASF Glasurit. You CANNOT obtain better anti corrosion applications outside of the factory. FULL STOP. The overall MIL thickness of the coatings, paint and clear - is one of the main reasons German vehicles hold better vs rust in "corrosive" conditions, vs JDM makes - JDM vehicles MIL thickness is less than half of German vehicles - it's one of the main reasons why Honda's rust like crazy compared to the same year Merc, for example. A little chip from a stone on a Honda almost always means rust will ensue quickly, where a German vehicle has much thicker coating protection, and also they add flex additive in the clear coat to absorb impact, rather than shatter - like thinner & harder JDM clear coats. There is a LOT that goes into this, that the general public is totally unaware of.
4) not convinced? research yourself: visit any reputable body shop that has been around for 10+ years. go walk to the back. ask some of the grey haired technicians about rust proofing. they will ALL tell you to never do it. Over the span of my career I've worked with at least close to a hundred certified body techs.... I've never once heard them recommend spraying oil all over to prevent rust. It actually CAUSES rust over time, makes the vehicle a pain in the ass to work on mechanically, and if you ever need to refinish - good luck trying to get a clean paint job with all that oil misting around in the spray booth. (We actually used to refuse cars that had repeat "rust proof" oil jobs in the past, because it would contaminate our spray booth and cause defects like solvent pop and fish eyes - we were painting $100,000+ cars then.... it wasn't worth it to take in the oiled up cars.) Instead, what they will say is: DON'T BE LAZY. Maintenance is paramount. In the winter, you must spray / clean your vehicle at least once a week; this is to flush the drainage passages and clean away all the corrosive salt / chemicals they spray on our Canadian roads. I have multiple rare 20+ year old vehicles, without a hint of rust (I've borescoped the drainage passages to be sure), and I've never sprayed oil or other black undercoatings on my vehicles. What I do is.... I have a power washer.... and I'm diligent.
To those commenting about oiling up hinges or ensuring engine bay bolts don't seize.... you use tech grease for hinges, not thin oil. And... do you really want your engine + front suspension fasteners / mounts to be lubricated and fluid? Think about that for a second.... and if you think all rubber bushings are immune to chemical break down / swelling with this type of oil application - think again. Most engine mounts are made of high durometer RUBBER.... I've seen the rubber inserts in engine mounts swell like crazy after rust proofing application. I'd never ever ever do this to my vehicles. And nevermind door seals and suspension bushings... I've seen those disintegrate thousands of times easily.
Please remember: I'm not positive about the level of formal education in this video, but 99% of "rust proof techs" have ZERO formal training or education (this is from 35 years in the trade). They believe the marketing sold to them from Krown and others, because they want to make money (it is what it is). "Training" from oil rust proof chains etc, is NOT formal education regarding automotive frame and body. Talk to the technicians that have undergone formal education to understand fully. I had 35 years in the trade before my body gave up and I retired. I would never, ever drill into my vehicles for this purpose; I would never ever spray oil everywhere to gunk up my drainage passages. Instead, take pride in your vehicle - don't be lazy - wash the damn thing. Take care all!
I respect your experience but I’m afraid you have been exposed to far less cars over your career than my family has. We have learned a lot. Some points you are making make some sense, some don’t at all. I wish you could come hang out in our shop for a whole day so I could show you some annually treated 25-35 year old cars that look perfect and have virtually no rust. This would basically debunk your entire comment.
We don’t have formal training like you do but we have 54 years in business and have protected over 300,000 cars. A person will learn quite a bit about what works and what doesn’t over the course of that many vehicles!
I'm not in Canada but in Cleveland Ohio. Our state and city uses more road salt per year in winter then 90% of the USA. Some years we actually run out of salt supply which is metric tons and will buy out neighbor states like PA or MI. I have a similar background to yours in autobody and refinish plus welding and at 50 now can say what we ourselves as trained professionals know what to do to clean our vehicles is far too much work unfortunately for the common person to do for not just rust preventions but also just normal car cleaning and maintenance to us. This spray oil up method will work for most as the average car owner only keeps their vehicles for 3-5 years nowadays her in our neck of the woods. I have 5 classic cars/trucks and all are pre 1975 with zero rust issues except my 70s el Camino with old 80s rubberized undercoat that has rusted the frame. I plan to put it on the rotisserie one day to restore to oem glory for sure. But all I can say is that even BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Honda, Ford, GM, or any other automaker will not survive 3-5 winters in Cleveland's harsh future even despite your mentioned extra and improved coatings. Plus as crazy is it sounds most guys who know about fluid film protection coating can't even get it done in Cleveland and have to get it done in Pennsylvania since Canada is a bit too far away, aye..🍁
@@pirelli41I agree with you. There is no doubt in my mind whatsoever that FluidFilm has prolonged the life of my Jeep XJ in northern Indiana.
I just painted por 15 on the bottom of my 2005 V8 4Runner, hoping to get another coat on before more salt and snow. I've heard that it's the real stuff and it's tensile strength is stronger than concrete. We'll see 😊
A shop did a battery box with por 15 on a 65 porsche and it is rusting away. This car has had marginal drive time rain free.
Is it made out of metal or plastic? Because por 15 is meant for metal. @@jamesq3896
@@jamesq3896Is the battery box made out of metal or plastic? Because por 15 is intended for metal.
@@meowmix5830 Metal
Regularly wash your car and it will solve this issue as well. An undercarriage wash does the same thing and is cheaper. It also doesn't require drilling holes in your vehicle. I regularly do mine, rust free, no underbody sprays, no oil sprays, nothing. I live in Wisconsin, which is basically Canada, and we LOVE our road salt.
For an older vehicle with surface rust how about: brush off all rust visible, spray rust converter on entire bottom (using common sense to not spray where you shouldn't), then spray a tough coating such as Rhino Linings on entire bottom (which may require blocking the spray on bolts, exhaust, etc - again use common sense), which overall creates a solution which lasts for years and years without re-coating every year.
Going to fluid film my jeep. I should have done it months ago. They salted the roads so much here in northern Indiana it was difficult to see out the the windshield from the salt spray.
🎯 . My 96 XJ has stood up to the briney roads of Elkhart County thanks to annual applications of fluid film
@erichimes3062 Elkhart uses way to much salt on ever road it seems. I live in Kosciusko. We just get sand.
Surface Shield by Blaster works the best and one time only is needed.
Btw keep cans at 72F or it won't spray out tip.
I have yet to see a product that is a one time application and works well in a Canadian winter. If they cure enough that they last forever they usually won’t penetrate the rust.
I've used surface Shield by PB Blaster and it is a good product but it is not a one-time spraying and I have sprayed hundreds of vehicles I did a trial with surface Shield when it first came out a couple years ago and a few of my comeback vehicles and and I didn't see much of a difference in them Vehicles versus the ones I use the fluid film on and the extra 100 bucks for a 5-gallon pail was not worth it and the vehicles I tested on were ones that have not been sprayed before so it would not be fair to spray on a vehicle that has already been sprayed in Prior with another product and then say it lasts longer because it's already been protected.
Surface Shield by PB Blaster is just a slightly more robust version of Fluid Film. It might last twice as long as Fluid Film by it's NOT a lifetime treatment (virtually nothing is). You might do it every 2nd year, instead of every year like Fluid film. The "Repair Geek" Channel is the biggest tester and promoter of Surface Shield, and he calls it a 2 year coating...
thanks for a wonderful informative interview, all my questions answered. appreciate it
$100? Wow, that is a crazy deal. Krown is pushing $150, and Corrosion Free even more.
Definitely hard to beat. Basically a full tank of gas these days
@@adsbadsb9488 I think it probably still works for all the places like frame rails, inside seams, welds, etc. But it melts away the weatherstripping and other rubber seals.. They're supposed to prep with silicone, but never do. I switched to using Corrosion Free. Similar to fluid film, less drippy, more tacky, but still fine enough of a mist to get in all the areas you don't see.
Toyota should really improve their rust protection as it is really bad. A rusted great car is a disaster.
He's an honest man if he does that job for only $100 canadian.
Fyi on your 4runner. The top of body mounts have an access hole under back seat carpet. It gets filled with dirt and will rust.
Treating the rust areas with phosphoric acid before painting or coating will help too.
I dont drive my 4th gen in the winter anymore but the last 4 years it got corrosion free, oil gard, corrosion free and krown. Now it spends winters in a barn while I RV in the south west
Looks like an impressive facility. Pro style.
I believe Fluid Film is lanolin which is wool wax.
There is an oil that I forget the name of that really does mess up rubber door seals.
Hot water and dish soap will remove the wax from your paint so factor in re-waxing
This is a great video; loved the explanations from Houghton RC. Need to DIY this on my 2007; its not bad but the effort now I think will serve me well into the many more years of ownership. Side note; what tires/size are you running? Absolutely love that look!
Clean the leaves off you drain panels under your hood if you let those clog you will have water running into your engine bay possibly hitting fuse boxes ect . Should be checked frequently
Why oil and not lanoline? I just mix raw lanolin with naphtha(as a carrier it will evaporate anyway) and spray it everywhere i can, even if there is rust already there. Also you should know how oil spray affect your rubber bushings. Lanolin product contain naphtha that evaporate but still can make bushing swell a little bit, oil spraying can make your bushings swell much worse.
Blaster Surface shield is the best undercoating available. Period.
I would have to disagree on Surface Shield being the best although it is a good product I've sprayed surface shield on a few comeback vehicles and it did not perform any better than the wool wax or fluid film that I use. it does spray easier cuz it is thinner butt it does cost quite a bit more so I spray fluid film inside all body panels and inside frame rails and I spray wool wax black on the Splash areas under the vehicle mainly frames. Just going by personal experience and I sprayed hundreds of vehicles over the years. Best things to warm the bottles up before you spray and you'll get great coverage
@@jasoncharles6980 Absolutely false. CRC 6026 is far superior to any other anti-corrosion coating on the market. ‘Period’. 😉
It's the same as wool wax and fluid film
Corrosion X XD and Corrosion X HD. HD where water will splash up, XD everywhere else. But it's expensive.
Oil based rust proofing eventually washes off.
I use CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor. Sprays on liquidy to get into cracks and creavases, then dries like a pine tar like wax.
One application for life.
The secret to having a rust free car if you live in the Kitchener/Waterloo area is to take you vehicle to Houghton's Rust Control at least once a year, if not twice. And spraying in the warmer months is best, as it allows the oil to seep into the crevasses before the cold weather months. Vern, Diane and Jim run a great business and are always gracious with their customers.👍👍
For whatever reason...this just doesn't seem to be that common here in BC.....especially up north. I think we would really benefit from this kind of rust protection around these parts....especially for 4runners and Tacomas.
Build FIlm is Wool Wax based, wool wax is Lanolin and Fluid Film contains a lot of lanolin
i need a service like this in New Jersey
Thanks for the vid, I've been looking for a new place to get my car done... How do so many people not know about rust protecting?
Dry ice blasting and then “Honeyseal”. Sublime surfacing in Edmonton, or honey seal in Ontario. Simply the best
Good job spraying it with paint, now when the rust causes the paint to flake off, it’ll take the oil with it and your rust will get worse :)
Unfortunately, you are 100% correct. This is exactly what will happen..
@@mazepa-slavaukrayini932 don’t worry, the idiot who made this video thinks he knows more than the guy who literally does this for a living and told him not to paint
That or even worse it doesn’t peel before it eats it away even more underneath
@@lanceboudreau3630 That is also correct! The vast majority of people on these channels don’t have a clue about how metal corrosion really materializes and spreads. First and foremost, because fluid film and similar products can be easily washed off with a water hose or power washer, the only thing they deliver is added weight to the vehicle body - nothing more.
I'll update in the spring and if it isn't rotten like you say, you have to promise to stop eating crayons
I get my car done. I don’t have to do it no more I move down south where don’t snow but when I lived on Long Island, I would get it done , it’s good for me and a lot for you because the mechanic never gets rusty bolts. in New York. They charge extra for work on your car because they have to heat bolts and cut bolts when you got the bottom waxed up all the time that seeps into the threads and parts come right off.
11:52 😂
By his math, he's spraying 15 gallons on one car.
I was thinking the same thing.
You didn't miss the obvious fact that we're Canadian when you were nitpicking someone else's vid, did you? 1 Gallon here is $80 cad.
@@CanadianGearheadAhhhhh. So THIS is why you can’t find anyone in Southern Ontario who sprays Fluid Film.
At $95 i’d spray the under carriage twice a year in a heart beat on my F150.
@CanadianGearhead well aware and not nitpicking. Just doing simple math. 600 divided by 80 is still 7.5 gallons. You're not putting 7.5 gallons on a 4 runner. 👍
I'm an hour south of kitchener and will be making the drive in. Do you need to book an appointment?
I don't think so, just make sure to go on a dry day
As far as your water leak goes, it could be your sun roof drain, door gaskets, ac drain tube, cowls clogged, etc.
Dang, $100 cad is a pretty good price these days. Wish I’d know. When I was in Kitchener last week!
Great video. 👍🏻 I’m going to try a home brew recipe that I just came across. Will see how that goes.
Will drive the 1.5 hrs to get my 2024sierra sprayed at this shop.
We appreciate this very much!
I did Cosmolije black 342. Drys like a wax candle. Looks good.
Im in the process of doing my 2010 Mercedes. Recently replaced the rear passenger brake line and the transmission pan due to severe rusting. For the most part it looks good underneath especially having large plastic covers along the bottom. But theres still issues with all the stamped metal painted parts like from and rear subframe especially at the welds. I sprayed on Corrosion X HD at all areas that will be slashed with water from the wheels, then the rest I just sprayed on Fluid Film. I want to spray the engine since I see corrosion on it, thinking of using Corrosion X XD for the engine bay. Its 2-3 xs the cost of Fluid Film but seems alot thicker so hopefully lasts longer. Applying it once a year before winter I dont mind.
Great service there and affordable too.
I prefer Surface Shield by Blaster. In my opinion it is the best and the second best would be fluid film, I had no luck with any other oil sprays! The worst was Krown! Thanks tor the video
What type of oil should one use for rust proofing?
I had a 92 4 runner. bought in BC then brought to Ontario after 15 years,. The truck disintegrated once it came to Ontario.
Ontario winters are no joke 😥