You have one of the best testing standards out there for material testing. Love the videos. I like apples to apples tests when it comes to testing materials and keeping the color the same across tests. Removes the variable of color pigment when it comes to material strength.
I have a video idea for you: as CNC kitchen also found out, ABS really likes to be printed in warm chambers, and has much better mechanical properties if printed hot. Now that you'll get the Qidi X-plus 4, you can get a real, stinky, warpy, but strong ABS (I suggest Sunlu, it's one of the best and cheapest), and test samples printed at ambient, 40°, 50°, and 65° chamber. You'll see a big difference. (Ideally you'd print it at 80° chamber, but there are no commercial machines that can do that)
I'm curious why nobody is mentioning the dramatic affect fan/cooling has on layer strength. If possible i print both abs and petg with zero fan (if there's enough layer time). I'd rather print a sacrificial duplicate piece (or even 3) than turn on the fan. My experience has shown layer strength decrease and even delamination with fan on with petg and abs. It would be very interesting to show a comparison of your print settings (with fan) vs no fan. I think you would find significant increase in layer strength. Thanks for your work Igor. Svaka cast. Hvala. Ziveli.
I’ve been pretty much printing with PLA for some time. That said, I’ve learned a hell of a lot. I’ve done a couple things in PETG but not enough to know much about it’s characteristics, etc… I’m getting ready to order a couple rolls of ABS for parts that will require decent strength, etc.. I don’t have a drying solution yet. Have you found printing ABS requires active drying, etc….? Edited to add, printing Mercury One printer parts. Do you recommend doing so with zero fan? And yeah, wth, one more. Have you heard of anyone using anealing on PLA or ABS to strengthen the parts?
Outstanding and thorough work here. The summary of the data in the graphics is clear and concise. Sad to hear that the financial gain from You Tube is so low given over 20 hours of work. Thanks for having the emotional energy to prepare and present this work. I learned so much from this work.
I run a 3D printing lab at a University and I recommend your website and channel to the students who are designing their Capstone senior design projects in mechanical engineering 👍
Thanks chap, I'm new to hobbyist 3d printing and have just found your channel. From what 3D printing content ive consumed so far on youtube you stand out (allongside CNC kitchen) as a rare credible and watchable channel. Reasonable scientific riggor and a level considered naration.
My favourite 3d printing material channel. I learnt so much from your videos. Thank you for these valuable informative videos. Your channel deserves more traffic
@@MyTechFun esun has some cheap one but they should all be relatively similar. It should have temp resistance slightly lower than abs, around 80 from what I have seen :)
I used your layer adhesion samples to ensure good layer adhesion for fast PETG prints with high volume flow. The used (white) Jayo PETG withstood over 55 kg, both at 8 mm3/sec and no difference at 16 mm3/sec (printed on standard Sovol Sv06) - I am quite impressed. To achieve the set volume flow I added a "purge tower" and checked the volumetric flow preview. Thank you for providing the test objects!
It seems to me based on your testing that differences between manufacturers are more important than color. For myself, once I dial in the settings for a filament I don't use different colors. Repeatability is more important to me than appearance, but that's different for different people. Plus, everyone knows black is the coolest color, and I want everyone to think my parts are super cool.
Great video Igor. I’m surprised how well the PLA did in the temperature test; it’s obviously not that great but I’m never able to get that level of survivability in my parts 😂
Great info as always. Thank you sir! PETG isn't the best at anything but it's good enough in most cases for me so far. I know it's weak on your break test, but it's tough in actual use. I bought my Qidi Q1 PRO to be able to print more advanced materials. I'll eventually have the need.
The Geeetech PETG seems like a pretty good one and cheap filament. I will try that one out myself. I am curious about PET-CF and Extruder Greentec Pro. Greentec Pro looks like too good to be true, but its not that cheap.
If bad layer adhesion is helping to absorb impact, then you could test PETG printed at different temperatures so you have samples with good and bad adhesion.
Had the luck to use their petg as well, it likes 250c, if you go below the layer adhesion just goes non existent rapidly, noticed this phenomen with sunlu years ago as well, dunno if they modified it since then Another budget filament is Eryone, tried their asa out, it doesn't like low temps either, it warps like tomorrow never comes (compared to Polymaker), and smells so bad I had to go out and open everything or I might puke or faint 😂 So this was why it was so cheap Printed in 50c chamber ofc
Thank you for your tests! But I'm really curious how you can manipulte resulst by changing printing settings. To my taste your printing temps are slightly off, would be really curious to see that PETG printed at around 235C, I beleive when overcooked PETG becomes brittle. And 250 for ABS is low. It seems what the recommendation to print it at 240-250C comes from the times when printers had PTFE lined heatbreaks and coldn't withstnad more. Nowdays nothing stops you to print ABS at 270-280, you already proved in other tests it helps layer adhesion. Slower speeds (maybe 5-8 cubic mm) should improve adhesion as well, sometimes you just need to get everything from your filament no matter how long it prints.
I agree, I print PETG at around 235c, depending on type,up to 250c for one specific cf- filled PETG and abs at 265c, limited to 10 or 11mm³/s to get good adhesion.
It would be great if you could record the chamber temperature as well. In my case, I print ABS in a warm chamber to reduce warping and increase strength - I wonder how much that would improve the Geeetech ABS+.
Looks like PETG part has corner flaring which increases your length and appears as if the shrinkage is reduced. I wonder if ABS layer adhesion will improve if it's printed at higher extrusion temperature or maybe higher chamber temperature.
Usually pla+ is less brittle and tougher -> better impact resistance,higher ductility. Depends on the blend and manufacturer. Imo good for items that need to be tough,but don't experience a constant load.
@@blackpete Thank you for the explanation. I have also heard PLA+ doing well outside. Would be really great to see tests like this adjusted for UV performance after a couple of months/years in the sun.! 🙂
You have one of the best testing standards out there for material testing. Love the videos. I like apples to apples tests when it comes to testing materials and keeping the color the same across tests. Removes the variable of color pigment when it comes to material strength.
My man you should start a routine/series and called it: Filament Friday or something and make these tests on a weekly basis. These are golden
Not enough, this week 2 :-) (probably Bambu PC on Sunday if I finish the video)
I have a video idea for you: as CNC kitchen also found out, ABS really likes to be printed in warm chambers, and has much better mechanical properties if printed hot.
Now that you'll get the Qidi X-plus 4, you can get a real, stinky, warpy, but strong ABS (I suggest Sunlu, it's one of the best and cheapest), and test samples printed at ambient, 40°, 50°, and 65° chamber. You'll see a big difference. (Ideally you'd print it at 80° chamber, but there are no commercial machines that can do that)
I'm curious why nobody is mentioning the dramatic affect fan/cooling has on layer strength. If possible i print both abs and petg with zero fan (if there's enough layer time). I'd rather print a sacrificial duplicate piece (or even 3) than turn on the fan. My experience has shown layer strength decrease and even delamination with fan on with petg and abs. It would be very interesting to show a comparison of your print settings (with fan) vs no fan. I think you would find significant increase in layer strength. Thanks for your work Igor. Svaka cast. Hvala. Ziveli.
I’ve been pretty much printing with PLA for some time. That said, I’ve learned a hell of a lot. I’ve done a couple things in PETG but not enough to know much about it’s characteristics, etc… I’m getting ready to order a couple rolls of ABS for parts that will require decent strength, etc.. I don’t have a drying solution yet. Have you found printing ABS requires active drying, etc….? Edited to add, printing Mercury One printer parts. Do you recommend doing so with zero fan? And yeah, wth, one more. Have you heard of anyone using anealing on PLA or ABS to strengthen the parts?
Outstanding and thorough work here. The summary of the data in the graphics is clear and concise. Sad to hear that the financial gain from You Tube is so low given over 20 hours of work. Thanks for having the emotional energy to prepare and present this work. I learned so much from this work.
I run a 3D printing lab at a University and I recommend your website and channel to the students who are designing their Capstone senior design projects in mechanical engineering 👍
Thank you, I appreciate this.
I always enjoy your video. Keep the good work my friend.
I use Geetech PETG in black , i really like the quality
Thanks chap, I'm new to hobbyist 3d printing and have just found your channel. From what 3D printing content ive consumed so far on youtube you stand out (allongside CNC kitchen) as a rare credible and watchable channel. Reasonable scientific riggor and a level considered naration.
My favourite 3d printing material channel. I learnt so much from your videos. Thank you for these valuable informative videos. Your channel deserves more traffic
Great video! Suggestion: test the HIPS filament for "normal objects" (not for support material, as usually).
+1
I do like hips, super useful as it doesn't absorb moisture so it's always ready to print
@@ThePogapog it is also very recyclable :)
Hm, OK. I don't like HIPS low temperature resistancy, but I have to test it at least once. Which brand do you suggest?
@@MyTechFun esun has some cheap one but they should all be relatively similar. It should have temp resistance slightly lower than abs, around 80 from what I have seen :)
I used your layer adhesion samples to ensure good layer adhesion for fast PETG prints with high volume flow. The used (white) Jayo PETG withstood over 55 kg, both at 8 mm3/sec and no difference at 16 mm3/sec (printed on standard Sovol Sv06) - I am quite impressed. To achieve the set volume flow I added a "purge tower" and checked the volumetric flow preview. Thank you for providing the test objects!
It seems to me based on your testing that differences between manufacturers are more important than color. For myself, once I dial in the settings for a filament I don't use different colors. Repeatability is more important to me than appearance, but that's different for different people. Plus, everyone knows black is the coolest color, and I want everyone to think my parts are super cool.
Great video Igor. I’m surprised how well the PLA did in the temperature test; it’s obviously not that great but I’m never able to get that level of survivability in my parts 😂
great video, very informative, love what you're doing and this format.
Great info as always. Thank you sir!
PETG isn't the best at anything but it's good enough in most cases for me so far. I know it's weak on your break test, but it's tough in actual use. I bought my Qidi Q1 PRO to be able to print more advanced materials. I'll eventually have the need.
The Geeetech PETG seems like a pretty good one and cheap filament. I will try that one out myself.
I am curious about PET-CF and Extruder Greentec Pro. Greentec Pro looks like too good to be true, but its not that cheap.
Thank you very much for the great testing once again :)
If bad layer adhesion is helping to absorb impact, then you could test PETG printed at different temperatures so you have samples with good and bad adhesion.
Really informative and interesting videos - Thankyou
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for the support!
Love your videos ❤keep doing what you’re doing, it’s fantastic!!
As always, great video with nice consistent analysis.
Have you ever tested ABSm or modified ABS?
Thanks!
Thx. No, I never tried modified ABS (or I didn't know about it). TitanX (or ApolloX) looks a lot modified to me.
Had the luck to use their petg as well, it likes 250c, if you go below the layer adhesion just goes non existent rapidly, noticed this phenomen with sunlu years ago as well, dunno if they modified it since then
Another budget filament is Eryone, tried their asa out, it doesn't like low temps either, it warps like tomorrow never comes (compared to Polymaker), and smells so bad I had to go out and open everything or I might puke or faint 😂
So this was why it was so cheap
Printed in 50c chamber ofc
Can recommend Eryone cf- PETG. It likes high printing temps, but looks awesome and is really tough.
Better than best, thank you once more.
12 bucks, on this video now 😂
Ha ha, correct. Thank you for the support!
Thank you! 🙂
Thank you for your tests! But I'm really curious how you can manipulte resulst by changing printing settings. To my taste your printing temps are slightly off, would be really curious to see that PETG printed at around 235C, I beleive when overcooked PETG becomes brittle. And 250 for ABS is low. It seems what the recommendation to print it at 240-250C comes from the times when printers had PTFE lined heatbreaks and coldn't withstnad more. Nowdays nothing stops you to print ABS at 270-280, you already proved in other tests it helps layer adhesion. Slower speeds (maybe 5-8 cubic mm) should improve adhesion as well, sometimes you just need to get everything from your filament no matter how long it prints.
I agree, I print PETG at around 235c, depending on type,up to 250c for one specific cf- filled PETG and abs at 265c, limited to 10 or 11mm³/s to get good adhesion.
Thanks for another great video!
It would be great if you could record the chamber temperature as well. In my case, I print ABS in a warm chamber to reduce warping and increase strength - I wonder how much that would improve the Geeetech ABS+.
Great testing.
interesting, abs+ has the same weak layer adhesion as eSun ABS+ and same very high impact resistance, hmm. Maybe the eSun is their oem.
I always struggle with eSun abs+.always bad bed adhesion and bad layer adhesion, if you don't print it at 265 or higher .
Exactly as my thinking.
Looks like PETG part has corner flaring which increases your length and appears as if the shrinkage is reduced. I wonder if ABS layer adhesion will improve if it's printed at higher extrusion temperature or maybe higher chamber temperature.
If you would try print that gray ABS+ with 15, 12 and 9 mm^3/s ?
i wonder how it would compare?
What happens when you print PLA at the same speed as PETG? it's not exactly fair unless this is accounted for.
how would PLA+ compare.?
Usually pla+ is less brittle and tougher -> better impact resistance,higher ductility. Depends on the blend and manufacturer. Imo good for items that need to be tough,but don't experience a constant load.
@@blackpete Thank you for the explanation. I have also heard PLA+ doing well outside. Would be really great to see tests like this adjusted for UV performance after a couple of months/years in the sun.! 🙂
I want to become a patreon to help with pps video. How do I become a patreon supporter?
Wow... i though abs is more strength. And it's not
7:07 PETG is more brittle than PLA??? That seems to be opposite form my experience with PETG being flexible in comparison to PLA. 🤔
My experience is that PETG is NOT any better than PLA in this regard (unscientific, without measurements).