Now that's what I was looking for. PPS is quite an expensive filament to get just for testing, so it's great you're doing it. I am mostly interested in: 1 - Annealing requirements. From what I researched PPS required annealing after printing. So what happens if not annealed and when annealed, what happens to the dimensions. 2 - The usual strength properties. Saw some videos that it even sounds like metal if you print thin wals you can play with your fingers 3 - Printabilty. From what I saw: - Heated chamber (though satstrd seeing brands tsht don't require that) - nozzle Temperature and bed temperature - bed print surface material Curious to see what you find out
@MyTechFun Thank you! I'm mostly interested in the engineering grade filaments, and my experimenting is not very fast because I only can afford 1 or 2 different higher priced filaments at a time to test and compare. You do a phenominal job with your testing videos and it is EXTREMELY helpful to alot of us that are specifically focused on measurable results to fit specific engineering prints. I'm excited to see the PPS-CF and similar filaments!
Really nice test and review as always! I have a small suggestion for the result graphs: I think it would be nice to use a consistent graph color scheme throughout all the different tests and graphs, as much a possible. So basically pick one easily distinguishable color for the main product being reviewed (such as green or orange?), and use that same color in all graphs. And then other products that are being compared to would use some other colors (blue, gray... ?). That would make it easier and faster to quickly look through the different graphs, when you know which color you are interested in basically in all of them.
Nice test as always. Impatient to see the PPS CF. I think you should not try on a x1c , my non CF Pps doesn't melt under 280 ° and the x1c has many step of his cleaning routine at 270°c. You need to create a special profile in orca slicer to modify it. For info, the PPS is incredible, the layer adhesion is impressive even at 300°
Look into the "poor man's X1e" mod. You add a ~30 ohm resistor inline with the hot end thermistor. This will cause it to read the temperature as lower than it actually is. So it'll show 300⁰ but actually be around 345⁰.
If fibers are added to a plastic they tend to absorb even more water. Hevort3d did a video where moisture was producing wobble-like rings because moist filament was sometimes expanding more.
Beware of the Qidi Plus 4 and the chamber heater. It's a fire hazard until you get replacement parts. The software update doesn't resolve issues, it's hardware problem.
I just tested the e3d obsidian nozzle at normal speed with standard settings for my filaments. Of course it started with stringing. Maybe that nozzle can help with the pps stuff.
I'm curious how different it was Bambu ASA vs Polymaker ASA. In my case the one from Polymaker had a very bad dimensional accuracy ... the shape of the printed cube sometimes was visible deformed. I'm glad that ASA CF has good dimensional accuracy. But there is a material that has good dimensional accuracy, is not blended and can deal with temperatures around 90-100 celsius?
Im not sure if you have already done a video about e.g. PETG Layer adhesion with different print speeds / "slow down if layer Print time is below " settings. As for my impression it really impact the stability of the part
Asa-cf is very moisture absorbant. It's far worse than regular Asa. Drying at proper temps for a long time is a must. It's an entirely different plastic when dry
Great job with showing the data. Looking forward to the PPS test.
Now that's what I was looking for. PPS is quite an expensive filament to get just for testing, so it's great you're doing it. I am mostly interested in:
1 - Annealing requirements. From what I researched PPS required annealing after printing. So what happens if not annealed and when annealed, what happens to the dimensions.
2 - The usual strength properties. Saw some videos that it even sounds like metal if you print thin wals you can play with your fingers
3 - Printabilty. From what I saw:
- Heated chamber (though satstrd seeing brands tsht don't require that)
- nozzle Temperature and bed temperature
- bed print surface material
Curious to see what you find out
Great video.
I love the surface finish of the ASA-CF.
Excellent analysis as usual.
Awesome stuff! You have PPS-CF from bambu. I wonder how PolyMakers Fiberion PPS-CF would compare to it. Would be cool to see that comparison
First there will be a separate video of each. And then in one video 3 or 4 PPS-CF comparison
@MyTechFun Thank you! I'm mostly interested in the engineering grade filaments, and my experimenting is not very fast because I only can afford 1 or 2 different higher priced filaments at a time to test and compare. You do a phenominal job with your testing videos and it is EXTREMELY helpful to alot of us that are specifically focused on measurable results to fit specific engineering prints. I'm excited to see the PPS-CF and similar filaments!
nice news @mytechfun. So much to test, so little time.
@@MyTechFun Even better! I look forward to it!
Really nice test and review as always!
I have a small suggestion for the result graphs: I think it would be nice to use a consistent graph color scheme throughout all the different tests and graphs, as much a possible. So basically pick one easily distinguishable color for the main product being reviewed (such as green or orange?), and use that same color in all graphs. And then other products that are being compared to would use some other colors (blue, gray... ?). That would make it easier and faster to quickly look through the different graphs, when you know which color you are interested in basically in all of them.
I love printing in ASA CF it has such a nice finish.
I have to print some quite large parts with it soon and im sad about wasting so much money 😂
I haven't done any quantitative testing as you have but print my abs/asa at 80C chamber temp and layer adhesion is amazing.
Nice test as always.
Impatient to see the PPS CF.
I think you should not try on a x1c , my non CF Pps doesn't melt under 280 ° and the x1c has many step of his cleaning routine at 270°c.
You need to create a special profile in orca slicer to modify it.
For info, the PPS is incredible, the layer adhesion is impressive even at 300°
Up bed to 110. Keep it warm for 20m and isolate printer from outer world. I put a blanket on
Look into the "poor man's X1e" mod. You add a ~30 ohm resistor inline with the hot end thermistor. This will cause it to read the temperature as lower than it actually is. So it'll show 300⁰ but actually be around 345⁰.
Will this harm the printer? For hardened steel, it loses the hardened effect at high temps.
Will it suffer heat creep?
If fibers are added to a plastic they tend to absorb even more water. Hevort3d did a video where moisture was producing wobble-like rings because moist filament was sometimes expanding more.
HI, You don't show annealing the material post printing? ASA-CF should be annealed to optimise strength.
Why?
ASA is amorphous. Annealing shouldn’t be needed.
overhang doesn't look very good which is a common issue with ASA. Have you tried printing without chamber fan on?
Beware of the Qidi Plus 4 and the chamber heater. It's a fire hazard until you get replacement parts. The software update doesn't resolve issues, it's hardware problem.
I live in EU (220V zone). That risk and replacement part affects the 110V zone (like USA)
@@MyTechFun Yes, forgot about that. It's just us in North America that can set things on fire. :) Like democracy.
I just tested the e3d obsidian nozzle at normal speed with standard settings for my filaments. Of course it started with stringing. Maybe that nozzle can help with the pps stuff.
Just a note that TH-cam tends to suppress videos without the maximum amount of ads shown 😢
I'm curious how different it was Bambu ASA vs Polymaker ASA. In my case the one from Polymaker had a very bad dimensional accuracy ... the shape of the printed cube sometimes was visible deformed.
I'm glad that ASA CF has good dimensional accuracy. But there is a material that has good dimensional accuracy, is not blended and can deal with temperatures around 90-100 celsius?
Maybe this is the video for you: th-cam.com/video/GfG65ypKTPE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xrCZXvEd-4wmV8gb Not only Bambu and Polymaker
Im not sure if you have already done a video about e.g. PETG Layer adhesion with different print speeds / "slow down if layer Print time is below " settings.
As for my impression it really impact the stability of the part
I did with PLA. PETG, test in progress.. th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-iC8uLXDyfxmIIxq
Asa-cf is very moisture absorbant. It's far worse than regular Asa. Drying at proper temps for a long time is a must. It's an entirely different plastic when dry