One hidden gem about all acetone sensitive plastics, is spray paint for plastics basically welds to them. The main difference between normal spray paint and one that advertises use with plastic is the extra acetone in the mix. Most consumer products that people want to paint are just injection molded ABS.
I'm glad someone said this because it's extremely useful. I made a replacement motorcycle panel out of ABS that I lighted sanded, vapor polished then spray painted with metallic flake and it looks nearly identical to the original. Although creating large pieces from multiple prints can be a chore.
@@ericlotze7724 why not both. I threw the subtitles into GPT to extract the information and put it on a bery roigh tierlist website with details on hover
Including a list of available brands would be hand too, because some brands make their naming conventions confusing (tough pla vs "tough pla" for example
Chemist here to answer your chemistry questions: Halogenated hydrocarbons are molecules made of carbon with attached hydrogens that have some atoms of a halogen (flourine, chlorine, bromine, or iodine) attached where a hydrogen normally would be. There's a lot of these, but some examples are chloroform and some other lab/industrial solvents (which would likely dissolve or attack other filaments), some pesticides, the molecule PTFE aka Teflon (funny enough, related to the filament at hand) and a lot of other things. Inorganic acids are a lot simpler. They are simply the acids that are NOT made of carbon. Examples include hydrochloric acid, sulfiric acid and nitric acid. Common acids that do not fit in this group are acetic acid (vinegar) and citric acid. Also, as a side note, please don't test this. Sticking random polymers in random acids is an easy way to get chemical (or physical!) burns or otherwise damage yourself or your property. Even if it says it is "resistant" or whatever, that doesnt mean it wont react, dissolve or produce toxic, explosive or dangerous compounds. Take it from me, a chemist who has made some dumb mistakes not realizing things reacted and blowing up glassware on accident. Not as fun as it sounds.
Also, regarding PEEK, it is unfortunately not resistant to sulfuric acid or hydrobromic acid, but it is resistant to many solvents and hydrochloric acid, so still pretty badass.
You're welcome (I'm exhausted 😪) *Regular Polymers:* *S-Tier* [11:50] PCTG: Better than PETG, waterlogged 1/3 as fast, easy print, minimal sag, strong, expensive, hard-to-remove supports. Best regular polymer by far [4:46] Carbon Fiber PLA (*): Stiffer, more brittle, accurate, low shrinkage, great finish [7:34] "Tough" PLA: PLA + PBT, prints like PLA, better temp/impact resistance [8:45] High-Speed PLA: For >300mm/s, low temp/viscosity, fast prints, great for prototyping [11:18] Carbon Fiber PETG (*): Lower sag/warping, better stability/stiffness than PETG, shiny, good for functional prototypes *A-Tier* [2:54] PLA: Softens in heat, UV sensitive, brittle, limited post-processing [10:31] PETG: Versatile, tougher/more heat resistant than PLA, low friction, hard-to-remove supports [13:35] CF PET: Extremely stiff, easy to use, better than PET but expensive [15:40] ASA: UV resistant, tough, matte surface, less warping than ABS, still toxic fumes *B-Tier* [4:00] Silk PLA: Weaker, easy support removal, puffs when printing, shiny [6:26] Wood PLA: Weak, feels like hard wood, can be varnished [8:10] Matte PLA: Satin surface, sandable, absorbs humidity, jams easily [9:33] "Flex PLA" PCL: Low temp, moldable, doesn't stick to adhesives [12:41] PET: 275°C min, stiff, tough, shiny, temp resistant, hard to print [14:05] PVB: Prints like PLA, works like PETG, IPA vapor smoothing [16:22] HIPS: Lightweight, good for wearables/props, dissolves in limonene *C-Tier* [14:44] ABS: Vapor smoothing, fast, cheap, heat resistant, tough, warps/stinks [22:35] PMMA (acrylic): Clear, UV resistant, brittle, bad adhesion, not for 3D printing but very clear [29:43] OBC: Semi-flexible, less warping, can use supports, hard bed adhesion *F-Tier* [5:45] Metal-Filled PLA: Hefty, metal properties, very brittle, expensive [22:35] Non-transparent PMMA: No use case since it's not clear [27:00] TPE: Too runny, generally bad [28:17] Polypropylene (PP): Flexible, strong layers, low density/friction/temp resistance, bad adhesion, warps [30:16] HDPE: Worst filament in every aspect 👇Check the comments for Engineering and Super polymers. Suggestions are welcome! * Carbon Fiber filaments are pretty dangerous, the fibers come of from everything - including printing and even just using - and they get into your skin, lungs and eyes. They look nice but I wouldn't put them into S for that reason.
*Super Polymers* *A-Tier* [35:01] PEKK: Easier to print than PEEK, mechanically inferior but superior to most [38:13] Ultem 1010 (PEI): Stiff, strong, resistant, perfect all-round, but 425°C hotend/160°C bed *B-Tier* [36:19] PSU: Weakest super polymer, heat/chemical resistant *C-Tier* [33:06] PEEK: Incredibly strong/tough, self-extinguishing, chemical resistant, extremely expensive, difficult to print [35:38] PPS: Chemically resistant, expensive, high temp printing [36:58] PES and PPSU: Similar to PSU and PEKK [37:21] CF-PEEK: Stiffer than PEEK, less sagging, very few printers capable *F-Tier* [38:10] Ultem 9085 (PEI): No reason to use [39:38] TPI: Extremely difficult to print, high temp requirements
*❗By Use-Cases❗* *General Purpose / Top Picks* [11:50] PCTG: Easy to print, minimal sagging, strong, water-resistant. Best all-rounder but expensive. [4:46] Carbon Fiber PLA: Best cheap filament that's more brittle but also stiffer, accurate, low shrinkage and has a great finish [11:18] Carbon Fiber PETG: Lower sag/warping, better stability/stiffness than PETG, shiny, good for functional prototypes [15:40] ASA: Easy to print, UV resistant, tough filament with matte surface and less warping than ABS for outdoor use and vapor smoothing *High-Speed Prototyping* [8:45] High-Speed PLA: For speeds above 300mm/s. Low temp, low viscosity, fast prints. *Functional Prototypes / Engineering Parts* [11:18] Carbon Fiber PETG: Lower sag/warping, better stability/stiffness than PETG. Good for functional prototypes. [19:32] Glass-Filled Nylon (PA GF): Stiff, tough, heat/abrasion resistant. Alternative to machined aluminum. [23:36] PC-PBT: Durable, easy to print, shatter-resistant in cold temperatures. *Outdoor / UV Resistant Parts* [15:40] ASA: UV resistant, tough, matte surface, less warping than ABS. *Flexible Parts / Tactical Gear* [24:56] 99D TPU: Incredibly durable, indestructible. Great for combat robots and tactical gear. [27:26] SEBS: Best really flexible filament, good for softer applications. *High-Performance / Engineering Applications* [37:46] Ultem 1010 (PEI): Extremely stiff, strong, and heat resistant. Best super polymer if you can manage the high printing temperatures. [35:01] PEKK: Easier to print than PEEK, still superior to most other filaments mechanically. *Lightweight Parts* [29:04] PP GF: Tough, durable, all-weather, very lightweight. Hard to print but great results. *Aesthetic Prints* [4:00] Silk PLA: Shiny finish, easy support removal. Good for decorative items. [6:26] Wood PLA: Feels like hard wood, can be varnished. Good for wood-like appearance. [5:45] Metal-Filled PLA: Hefty, metal properties, very brittle, expensive. Hard to print but useful for their unique surface finishes and aesthetics. *Extreme Chemical / Heat Resistance* [33:06] PEEK: Incredibly strong/tough, self-extinguishing, chemically resistant. Difficult to print but unmatched performance. *Composite / Fiber-Reinforced Parts* [21:53] PC Carbon Fiber: Incredibly stiff, great for parts requiring extreme rigidity. *Impact-Resistant Parts* [7:34] "Tough" PLA: Better temperature and impact resistance than regular PLA. *Vapor Smoothing / Post Processing* [14:05] PVB: Can be smoothed with IPA vapor, prints like PLA but performs like PETG. [15:40] ASA: Can be smoothed with Acetone, UV resistant, tough, matte surface, less warping than ABS.
You should add the metal filled variants under Aesthetic Prints too, despite zach putting it in F tier. Other commenters are saying it's difficult to print, but absolutely indispensable for the surface appearance
Obscure PETG advantage: it handles cryogenic temperature well. Now I understand most people don't have a need to store things in -80C, but PETG containers can. I have yet to test -150 and -196.
This is actually really great to know, I routinely deal with both -80 and LN2 temperatures but haven't YET had a reason to 3D print anything for that use.
I don’t know if most Technical Data Sheets show it, but now i want CNC Kitchen Type Tests, but at various temperatures. 0c, 20c (or “close enough” room temp, just document it, and 100c *at minimum* Whatever a Hot Car/Hot Day’s temp would be might be neat too, also like you said cryogen temperature *maybe*, but that is quite niche. Along with Burn Tests though despite being niche can be useful!
For anyone else searching for "99D TPU", you're not gonna find it. I couldn't and I tried pretty hard. Some here suggest Zack mistakenly wrote "99D" but really meant "95A" - because he links to that in his description. However I have used 95A and it is not rigid like Zack describes in this video. It's actually still quite flexible. If you want a TPU that fits Zack's description better, try 98A TPU, which is indeed MUCH more rigid than 95A. Shore hardness must be rated on an exponential scale because the difference between 95A and 98A is surprising. It is relatively easy to print, does not bend up and clog like 95A. Both Ranki and Priline make 98A TPU, both can be found on Amazon in a variety of colors. I have found Priline's 98A TPU to be more dimensionally accurate than Ranki's 98A TPU. The prints look really nice. The finish of the Priline black and orange (only two colors I have used) is flat, very little sheen. The finish of the Ranki has slightly more sheen. Hope this helps.
Thanks, this was helpful and inspired me to loop through searches on google for each possible shore hardness. Here are my top results: NinjaTek's Armadillo line is 75D. CC3D sells a 72D Spriour claims to sell a 77D (I have never heard of this brand) Essentium has a 74D
in a video by CNC Kitchen on TPUs somebody in the comments was talking about 70D (or in that direction) but nobody could find that either , at least not in EU
I don't think shore hardness is exponential. It should be linear of force vs displacement. How many 95A filaments have you tried? Your sample may be brand specific/moisture dependent. Also, 95A is pretty damn stiff from my experience. Ive read of ppl using AMS with it.
I'm annoyed about having iron filled composite in F-tier, if only because that particular blend is awesome for prototyping things that require magnetic properties, like brushless DC motor components and so on. For all the other metal-filled composites, I agree that painting will largely give the same effect, but when you don't have a CNC mill, and want a part with "some" of the properties of iron, then an iron composite filament absolutely serves a very legitimate purpose. Oh, and its surface finish is about on par with PLA-CF, just IMO.
The magnetic properties will be much lower than just using metal though. What advantage do you have making your own brushless motor cores anyway? Just as an educational exercise it may be fine but it isn’t a great idea. Also most things to do with iron and magnets or electricity get hot, PLA can only withstand 50-60 Celsius so it is a rubbish material for motors, electromagnets, transformers, etc, where you would normally just use steel.
@@conorstewart2214Of course it's for educational and prototyping purposes. I'm not suggesting usual those materials for production. That would be madness. Given that many commonly available Neodymium start to lose their magnetism about 80C, then temperature control isn't something that can easily be fixed by simply using steel. One part of the prototyping aspect is ensuring that there's sufficient air-flow to keep it all cool. The 50-60C max operating temperature of PLA can actually serve as a handy canary in the mine in this instance. If it's starting to warp and deform then chances are there's something wrong with your design. The point being is that there is a legitimate purpose. A good example of such on TH-cam would be this: th-cam.com/video/NFvMC3l3fGY/w-d-xo.html
FWIW I have printed a fair amount of straight-up PP on my X1C - it's really easy to get bed adhesion: clear packing tape is PP, so just put strips of packing tape on your bed and you're off to the races. You'll want to have an enclosed printer to avoid warping. Print with minimal cooling (read 'print it slow ') to get the best looking prints. Major plus points for PP: complete layer adhesion PLUS food-grade (use a Stainless nozzle for only PP to avoid contamination) make it very useful for anything food-grade and industry.
PVDF is resistant to haloganated hydrocarbons because it is one itself, i.e. it's a fluoroganated hydrocarbon and fluoride make some of the strongest bonds in organic chemistry, which is why it's also resistant to inorganic acids, it simply just doesn't react with anything.
PVDF is also widely used in biology as it has several advantages over nitrocellulose when it comes to binding proteins. Very commonly used as a thin sheet for immunoblots.
@iankampine285 A couple of reasons actually. PVDF has better detection sensitivity, and better protein binding capacity, it is also in my experience much more durable than nitrocellulose when handling it so is easier to strip and reprobe a PVDF membrane. There are still reasons to use nitrocellulose at times of course (like if doing a Northern) but PVDF is a good all around material so is much more common in the lab these days. I've used both and the nitrocellulose was always in my opinion just more finicky and seemed to give a bit of an uglier blot. Also, as an aside nitrocellulose as you can imagine is flammable. Old lab trick was to light a small amount as it burns very very quick without any residue so looks like it just disappears in a flash.
@@conorstewart2214Makes sense though. It's like trying to burn ash. The nasty things have already attacked the material, and aren't going to just let go.
To Zack, or any other 3D printing youtuber interested, TPU is great for printing gaskets for engines. I made some carb bowl and intake gaskets from TPU for my Honda XR50 rebuild and it's still holding strong. It's probably been almost 2 years now and should go back to see how the inside of the gasket is doing, but the chemical resistance is superior enough that it'll get you through those types of projects when waiting on snail mail is the alternative. It's something worth exploring if someone is interested in making a video.
I don't remotely know how to even begin 3D printing, but I've watched every single one of these filament videos so far because I love the way Zack presents everything
"Type it in to Notepad and unplug your computer." Perfect example of why you can never let your mind wander during his videos, you'd miss all of the perfectly planned puns, paradoxes, and pontifications.
As friendly as possible: Did you actually try this or did you read this info somewhere? I wish someone would print POM on rayon or cellophane. I'm fairly confident people would be happier.
@@3dPrintingMillennial I've printed with it a fair bit. It's really useful if you need low friction. But it warps a lot in my unheated bad enclosure. Its really strong though and the layer adhesion is incredible. I try tobavoid using it but if I have to, I do have the option.
@@folkevongen6442 have you tested out nylons instead? Also you can get low friction filament, Igus makes some which containers solid lubricant but you can also get PC-PTFE or PETG-PTFE as well, which is basically just the base filament with PTFE added which gives it a very low coefficient of friction and high wear resistance.
@@justtwoseats a filament spooler had a shaft that rubbed up against the frame causing the frame to get pretty warm and wearing down. Printing the bit of the shaft that rubbed in POM did the trick. And an adapter for a drill to that same spooler kept breaking, POM worked well for that as well. There are probably better options for what i need, POM just intrigued me.
A local manufacturer in South Africa has some really interesting filaments that I haven't seen or heard of anywhere else. Like SBS (Styrene-butadiene-styrene) which not hydroscopic, slightly flexible and slightly translucent that looks very nice when printed in vase mode. TPR(thermoplastic rubber) which also isn't hydroscopic with a shores hardness of 90. ABS-X, ABS but easier to print on an open printer ("all the benefits of ABS but without the hassles"). Lastly PLA Wayless which describes it's self, light weight PLA perfect for RC and drone parts. Always enjoy your video!!
Gonna have to hard disagree on the metal bearing filaments. They can be a pain in the ass, and yes, you can electroplate, but when trying to make either cosplay items or artifacts/props from video games and movies the ability to rust/patina them and to sand them to a very metal appearance, it's straight up far far better than electroplating. With electroplating you can get nice shiny metal finishes, but these filaments absolutely slay if you want aged and weathered metallic finishes.
First video I’ve seen by this channel, I don’t know a thing about materials science or 3d printing but the HF rant and the dwarf fortress analogy easily earned a new subscriber!!
Leaving a comment about PVDF as a chemist - indeed it's indestructible! It can withstand paint stripper (halogenated organic solvent) and concentrated battery acid (inorganic acid)! Warps like hell, has poor bed adhesion (I was only able to print it with Vision Miner's Nano Polymer Adhesive on the print bed), but if you find a way around warping - it's actually quite pleasant to print
I was able to print it on G10 (Garolite), with the bed about 105C. A second choice is to print it on PVA. One easy technique is to model a sheet of PVA that it one layer thick. Place your part on top of that. You basically print one time use build surfaces. I use upgraded 3ntr printers and have a dual extruder capable setup.
I've also sent this message to two other people in this comment section here, but I have a question about this and Zack's statement that it becomes deadly just a few degrees above the print temp. I have some old injection molded parts I am in the process of replacing with printed parts that need to survive for years being exposed to chlorine gas. I'm an industrial design engineer and I did a minor in polymers and associated production processes, so I understood the potential risks of PVDF well enough when it came through my materials research as one of the only two viable options along with PPS that can be done in FDM and meets the chemical requirements. However, from my understanding is that degradation and thus the extremely toxic byproducts like hydrogen fluoride, whilst extremely toxic, are actually very unlikely to occur since thanks to its fluor bonds being so strong - taking a lot of energy to break- it has a huge safety delta between the processing (~250°C) and degradation (~400°C) temperatures. Much higher than a lot of common polymers which seem to have around a 50-80 degree safety margin and obviously much much higher than it's chemical cousin PVC since its delta is actually negative. This does not gel with what Zack is saying here, where he talks about even a few degrees causing the release of dangerous amounts of toxic chemicals. I would really like to understand this well, since this is a potentially dangerous situation I would like to avoid. I know that degradation doesn't happen at a set temperature, because of polydispersity shorter chains will degrade sooner, but I cannot imagine that to be such a factor that a few degrees above processing temps it is suddenly deadly. Do you have any insight on this?
@@martvansteenbergen8955 just heating up this polymer to melting won't cause any problems, as you said, it's very stable up until very high temp with significant margin. But if you overheat it beyond decomposition temperature, that's where it becomes dangerous. PVDF decomposes into reactive and toxic fluorinated gases, including HF, and those are very bad for you. So the point is - don't let it drip into heating element where it could overheat and cake up. Side note - these ptoxic products of decomposition are similar to ones of PTFE (Teflon), and are especially toxic to birds. To the point that if you have non-stick cookware and have a parrot for example, the bird's life expectancy is halved
what is it about it that makes it immune to acids? I thought acids' whole thing was eating apart anything (but yea i guess something has to be able to hold them...)
I’ve been printing for years and, aside from those basic videos needed to get you started, this might be the single most useful video on 3d printing I’ve watched. So much better than just a comparison of different brands, it analyzes filament materials by their properties. Very impressive.
Hey Zack if you wanna run some TPI/PEEK/PEKK/Ultems or other super polymers, we've got two crazy high temp printers just sitting in our warehouse. They'd need some love, but could be a fun project breaking down an industrial system and fixing/upgrading them. One is a 3ntr Spectral 30 which has 3 nozzles that can reach 500C and a chamber that can reach 250C. The other is a Smart3D macro engineering prototype, but it can also hit the 500C with 2 nozzles and 200C chamber (though it took nearly 2 hours to hit that chamber temp when we tried it). If you're interested in either of them, we can let them go for practically nothing and would love to see them put to use!
99% of everything I print is PETG. It's a bit slower, but I have consistently gotten killer results and the resulting products are strong and with enough flex that they can handle a lot of real life. Doesn't deform, handles higher temps. It's just a great allrounder. I'll have to check out some PCTG, though!
The plastic creep with PETG is a problem though. Anything under load will creep over time. PETG-CF helps with this but it can still happen and makes it more brittle. Anyone with an enclosed printer outside of their room and/or has a decent air filter system to catch VOCs should look at printing ASA/ABS. Once you get used to it, I find it easier to print, looks nicer, post-processes extremely well and most importantly doesn't succumb to creep. It's perfect for mounting things inside the printer where warm air temps will cause issues with PETG and PLA. CF-ASA is one of the best prototyping materials out there IMO.
I guess PCTG is a bit softer and can deform - which contributes to impact resistance, it can absorb energy, but at the price of being partially damaged, PETG is more brittle. PCTG is more shiny and I guess more transparent. I think difference is how it breaks and it does not stick to itself where it should not that well, so it can print some in-place parts with tight tolerances. My experience with PETG is that small parts can break off PEI plate. Question is if it sacrifice like 40% higher cost. Also it may smell, at least some variants.
Yes, glass fiber reinforced nylons are used all over the place in injection molded parts that require greater rigidity and strength than straight nylon. Plastic parts in power tools are frequently GF-nylon.
you are a mad man. i barley have the attention span to watch this video. which is an amazing video. you are a real asset to the 3d printing community for having the patience to do this video. hats off to you my man. def deserves a sub
Yes! Finally PCTG gets the recognition it deserves! I stumbled across it while looking for something that improves upon PETG, but it is truly shocking just how much better it is. I really think it has the potential to replace PLA in the near future.
I've been printing with Polymaker PC 3kg spools on my Bambu Labs X1. It's been awesome. I live in Florida and moisture hasn't been an issue. I've Made lamp shades and aquaponics towers with it. It's become my favorite filament
The PC that is generally available (Bambu and Polymaker) I understand to be PC and PETG, although exact composition is difficult to come by. Regardless, it prints great on the Bambu X1C. Easier to work with than the PETG filaments, as it releases from same material support and sticks to a glue surface on a PEI bed when hot, but releases at room temp. If it came in more colors, it would be perfect.
A tier list like that where the entire 3d printing community can contribute would be amazing. Everyone can downvote/upvote any material and then you could click on the material and see which manufacturers are recommended for it.
PC-PBT-CF15. S tier. As strong as PA12, dimensionally stable like PLA, does not embrittle at low temps, high fatigue resistance, high toughness, and decent HDT. Once your printer is dialed in, it's my favorite filament for engineering projects by far.
Been following the series you did a great job explaining these for beginners and really helped with deciding which other filiments to try other than Pla and what you actually need your printer to be able to do in order to achieve this! Thanks taking the headaches away and cutting research times down substantially! I appreciate your work and look forward to your future videos 🤙
*Full Tier List* *S Tier:* *Carbon Fiber PLA (**4:50**):* Enhances stiffness/detail without losing PLA ease. *High-Speed PLA (**8:48**):* Faster printing, retains quality. *“Tough” PLA (**7:39**):* Greater strength and heat resistance than regular PLA. *Carbon Fiber PETG (**11:19**):* Adds stiffness to PETG, with less warping. *PCTG (**11:57**):* Durable, impact-resistant, better chemical resistance than PETG. *TPU (**9:37** & **24:56**):* Flexible, durable, for protective/wearable applications. *Glass-Filled Nylon (**19:39**):* High strength/rigidity, for functional parts. *SEBS (**27:26**):* Stretchable, returns to original shape, for special uses. *A Tier:* *PETG (**10:35**):* Good toughness, easier to print than ABS. *CF PET (**13:36**):* PET with carbon fiber, stiffer with good printability. *PC-PBT (**23:36**):* Durable, low-warp, versatile. *PEKK (**35:01**):* High performance for extreme conditions. *Ultem 1010 (**37:50**):* Excellent thermal and chemical resistance, challenging to print. *PPS (**35:38**):* Chemical and heat resistant, tough. *B Tier:* *Regular PLA (**2:54**):* Easy to print, wide color variety, less durable. *Silk PLA (**4:02**):* Shiny finish, visually appealing, weaker than standard PLA. *Matte PLA (**8:10**):* Aesthetic matte appearance, slightly flexible. *PA-6 Nylon (**17:02**):* Durable, flexible, moisture sensitive. *PA-12 Nylon (**18:16**):* More flexible and impact resistant than PA-6. *CF Nylon (**18:50**):* Strength of nylon with added rigidity of carbon fiber. *GF-PP (**29:04**):* Tough and lightweight, difficult due to warping. *PSU (**36:19**):* High heat resistance, suitable for food contact. *C Tier:* *Metal-Filled PLA (**5:45**):* For aesthetics but brittle and expensive. *PVB (**14:05**):* Unique post-processing opportunities, some challenges in printing. *OBC (**29:43**):* Tough and flexible but struggles with bed adhesion. *D Tier:* *Wood PLA (**6:26**):* Wood-like finish, can be challenging to print. *HIPS (**16:22**):* Used as a support material, less common with alternatives. *ASA (**15:40**):* Good for outdoor use, careful printing required. *ABS (**14:44**):* Durable and heat-resistant, emits odors, difficult to print. *F Tier:* *POM (**30:58**):* Engineering material, hard to print. *Polypropylene (**28:17**):* Durable, notoriously difficult for bed adhesion. *HDPE (**30:16**):* Common plastic, poor for 3D printing. *PVDF (**31:56**):* Chemically resistant, hazardous when overheated. *PEEK (**33:06**):* High performance, prohibitively expensive and difficult.
The Polymaker PA6-CF is something special. Currently printing it using an off the shelf Ankermake M5C with zero issues. I did have to edit a few settings to help oozing, but it prints just as well as PLA now.
What you were talking about is a class of chemicals like 1,1,1 Trichloretholine. It is illegal to possess in the US, it's actually illegal to enter the territorial waters of the US with a drop of it. I worked with it in the 80s and 90s. I put chemical resistant gloves in it and they dissolved. There is residue of it in the hubble because we used it to clean the encoding boards with it. It was the only thing to dissolve the lead in the solder we used. It was silver resistant so it left pure silver behind. It was used because we couldn't get 100%silver, we used 99.9997% silver and trichlor killed that last tiny bit of lead.
PVDF would be an awesome thing to print because in applications where hydrofluoric acid(HF) is used to etch the surface of titanium, racks made of this stuff are what you set up the pieces on. In designing those, you have to make absolutely sure there are no flat spots or cavities for acid to pool or gather
You can but PP can do that as well and is cheaper. PP glue stick, 100% infill and a 20 mm brim will get you most of the way. If you need support try and do it only on flat surfaces where you can get a knife in between. Also print support with a 250-300% offset from the printed object. This has worked for me at least.
yeah man, you DID fucking convince me to use some of the filaments i didn't know before. You deserve a gold medal for that video and I hope someone gives you what you need. This video is basically the first shit i needed to see when starting 3D printing (I starded less than 24h ago, so it's allright)
I always love your Filament videos. I didn't even know some of these existed. And while I don't see myself printing TPI ever in my entire lifetime, thanks!
Chemist here, PVDF is what nice filters are made of. It's nice because it's resistant to chloroform and methylene chloride (halogenated hydrocarbons). It's also great for centrifuge tubes. There are a lot of times when we want to dissolve everything we can, then selectively precipitate what we want.
@@orngjce223 not at all, I'm not using his video as research as I supply a variety of filaments so subscribers can test and come to their own conclusions. Just watched as a fan of his channel and thought he did an amazing job at informing the viewers about a vast variety of filament options there are.
I live in a really harsh moist environment. We get below freezing for a few weeks in the winter, then over a hundred degrees Fahrenheit in the summer. I like making little things for my friends, but it's hard to find a good filament that doesn't suck up moisture or withstand melting in a car window. I printed a little guy for my mom a few years ago, and she displayed it in her car for a few months in the summer, and he was half the size she should have been 💀
But really, that’s a fantastic starting point for learning about the thermal properties of these materials. And being “thermoplastics”, it’s kind of an important part
At my clinic we used to use peek for skull bone replacement implants. They cost several thousand euros, so a year or 2 ago we switched to having cheap but precise negatives printed and we use hydroxy appattite cement to form the actual implants. Works just as well if you know some very simple tricks but it's much cheaper and faster to order. Some colleagues at other clinics even print their own implants or negatives at the clinic but that's a bit of a difficult process to implement.
@@defenestrated23 Ooo, I've never turned it, so I've yet to experience such beauty. Turning aluminum with nice sharp tools has produced ribbony chips for me, but they were somewhat worrying due to concerns about overheating.
Great vid! Awesome work! I do disagree about the ABS-rating, it’s my goto filament. Even big models prints fantastic, without warping on X1C with textured PEI plate. You just have to design your models to try and avoid bridges, and I always print with a brim. 🙌
Great list, but its harder to take it very seriously when 5/7 of your S tier materials are sponsored products. Still, this is a very well done informative video. Thanks
Holy crap, i'm finally managing to have mi Monoprice Ultimate 3D printer to not fail a 5 hours-print and been using only PLA, didn't knew how much filaments (and chocolate) are out there, might try some of those first S-tier Also, not sure if it's because the material or the printer, but seeing how im not the only one not having perfect overhangs just makes me see that it's not absolutley a problem of my settings (or printer) Maybe it is, but im just glad i finally have a useful printer afte 3 years of coming back and leaving after a first fail
Nylon CF is one of the easier material to print. I dont have a heated chamber but put a bit of magigoo on the print plate, heat it to 100°C and done. Perfect engineering grade 3D prints 😄
Just a suggestion for longer videos like this. Add text overlay when talking about specific thing so I don't have to go back if I didn't catch what type of filament you are talking about.
You put CF PLA in S but ASA in A? Have you actually checked the usefulness of CF PLA? It looks pretty, it has slightly better heat resistance to regular PLA. It’s more brittle, its mechanical properties are horrible. Other than making something that has no load or heat exposure and no impact. It’s more or less useless unless you just want the matte cf finish. It’s not more precise, it just looks smoother due to the fibers. ASA is as good as ABS and has UV resistance. 16:30
ASA is awesome! You don't get the shininess of ABS but you lose the massive warping issues, it doesn't stink when it's printing, and it's weather resistant without needing coating
@@greensheen8759I have ASA filaments that still comes very shiny and vapor polishing ends up nearly the same as ABS. CF-ASA is a dream to work with... just be mindful of those tiny fibers that can get embedded in skin and a potential hazard when post processing.
My new favorite indestructible filament is a 72D hardness TPU/Nylon from CC3D. 72D is somewhere between shipping cart wheel and hardhat hardness. Amazing stuff.
These videos compete for my favorite 3D printing videos ever. If you came up with 10 hours of content on this I could probably nerd out to it all in one sitting if I had the time. Thanks for another great one.
What makes you think PLA can't be sanded, glued or painted? There are plenty of videos of people doing all those things with PLA for cosplay props and other stuff. Sure you can't go at it for 15 minutes with an angle grinder and you can't just use the same glue as for paper, but it is absolutely possible.
So there are a few different measuring scales when classifying how compressible something is... I think 99D is roughly equivalent to 95A. Thus video goes over it in good detail: th-cam.com/video/3VulaksxOio/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mK9xPP82q_x8Yqmk
S - pla, 95a tpu (alot of uses, simple to print) A- wood pla ( exstreamly fun to showoff but brittle) B- ninjaflex, carbon (harder to print but has some few uses) C-Abs (no inclosure ) petg (cheap petg??) my list of the few iv tryed. might try some pla + soon
95A is fine in my experience, its a little flexible, but will be just a strong. Basically indestructible, and for all intents and purposes rigid, at least if printed with high (or 100%) infill.
Thanks, this is great work...as a noob, this will stop me from betting the farm on something that won't work. Future Suggestion, Started at S-tier filaments and work your way down to the F-tier. I think it's fantastic that you mention these because it doesn't leave anyone wondering if you missed it and that it might be the holy grail. I appreciate your sacrifice brother for the community!
I use PP for lab stuff, running experiments with more bed materials. So far only sacrificial packing tape works well enough. I am also experimenting with POM, literally impossible to get a good print with a normal printer. I definitely do want to figure it out for some scuba stuff. Current test is a phenolic paper surface.
In the Every filaments II video, Zack talks about Fillamentum PP 2320, which is a Polypropylene formulation that optimized for ease of printing, it's not hard to print, I use it a lot for chemistry/lab stuff. It's quite good
PP when you can get it to work is great, it is very durable and pretty flexible. On the X1C and ender 3, the only thing that stuck was clear tape, the tape pretty much becomes part of the print.
I am more and more convinced that this idea that you can print everything and anything is wrong. By sticking to easy to use materials and then using other methods to make parts (especially engineering parts) we can achieve significant better results then with just 3d printing in significantly less time. I am currently exploring casting (both hot and cold) and using machined parts (like on lathe and mill machined - both plastic and metal) and incorporating that into my projects
The amount of effort and information on this video makes it so I have to give it a like and subscribe. I always appreciate a good video no matter the subject. Well done!
My only disagreement would be to move iron filled filament up at least one step, I've found it's magnetic properties can be really useful for prototyping motors and magnetic gearboxes. Compared to trying to machine a big chunk of iron or managing to get ahold of electrical steel I'd much rather work around it's drawbacks.
Matte PLA (Polyterra in particular) is S tier for me. No layer lines, colours that are nice enough to not require painting and besides needing to dry a little more frequently it's a breeze to print. It's been the only PLA I've used since buying my P1S 6 months ago.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
This episode is sponsored by Aura! Get 2 free weeks: aura.com/zackfreedman
Will you do a similar video on resins?
have you ever done SBS by fill X? or TPR?
Continuity error:
38:10 Ultem 9085 goes in F tier.
39:34 Ultem 9085 goes in A tier.
High speed PLA is bulshit I can print normal PLA at 500mms without any issues
Services like this can only stop companies from storing your information. Once it's sold. It's too late
*S Tier Filaments*
4:46 Carbon Fiber PLA
7:34 “Tough” (PBT) PLA
8:55 High-Speed PLA
11:18 Carbon Fiber PETG
11:50 PCTG _(close to perfect, top of s tier)_
19:32 Glass-Filled Nylon
25:35 TPU _(~99D)_
doin the lord's fuckin work over here.
which ones are spools of lung cancer?
@@batou1468F Tier
Thank you!
Where can you get 99D TPU?
I need the grass filament so i no longer need to go outside.
glass-filled PP is a truly horrifying name
Nobody wants their pp filled with glass
I dunno, sounds good to me!
Darwin's warning label. Invisible and intangible.
No way lol @@moth.monster
do not search this i have seen a video dont look for it
One hidden gem about all acetone sensitive plastics, is spray paint for plastics basically welds to them. The main difference between normal spray paint and one that advertises use with plastic is the extra acetone in the mix. Most consumer products that people want to paint are just injection molded ABS.
I'm glad someone said this because it's extremely useful. I made a replacement motorcycle panel out of ABS that I lighted sanded, vapor polished then spray painted with metallic flake and it looks nearly identical to the original. Although creating large pieces from multiple prints can be a chore.
Need this tier list as a webpage with mouseovers giving the filament name, pros, cons, and baseline print settings :D
Could also have *Polar Area Charts* with the various values.
@@ericlotze7724 why not both.
I threw the subtitles into GPT to extract the information and put it on a bery roigh tierlist website with details on hover
What homie said☝️👍
Including a list of available brands would be hand too, because some brands make their naming conventions confusing (tough pla vs "tough pla" for example
I think I’m going to do this. Tons of great info in the comments to be captured also
S: CFPLA, "Tough" PLA, High-Speed PLA, CFPTG, PCTG, Glass-Filled Nylon
A: PLA, PETG, CFPET, ASA, PC Carbon Fiber, PC-PBT, SEBS, PEKK, Ultem
*S Tier Filaments:*
CF PLA
PLA + PBT ("tough" PLA)
High Speed PLA
CF PETG
PCTG (Virtually Perfect) [#1 Filament]
GF Nylon ( = Machined Aluminum) [#2 Filament]
TPU 98A (Skateboard Wheel) [No Shatter]
*A Tier Filaments:*
PLA
PETG
CF PET
ASA
CF PC
PC PBT
SEBS
PEKK (Much Better PEEK)
Ultem (Too Great For It's Own Good)
*B Tier Filaments:*
Silk PLA
PLA (Wood Filled)
Matte PLA
PCL (Clear Plastic Pellets) [PLA Flex]
PET
PVB
HIPS
PA-6 Nylon (Better For Most Things It's Good At)
PA-12 Nylon
CF PA-6 Nylon
PC
TPU 80D (Nerf Sword)
GF PP (Very Hard to Print)
PSU (Nylon Usually Better)
*C Tier Filaments:*
ABS
CF PA-12 Nylon
PA + PETG Alloys
PMMA
Chocolate (Disqualified)
TPU 80A (Mega Squishy)
OBC (Needs Specific Build Plate)
PEEK ( >400°C Extrusion 😬)
PPS (Vat Holding The Acid)
PES & PPSU (0% Chance You Can Print This lol)
All Super-Polymer Composites (ie. GF PEEK, GF PES)
*F Tier Filaments:*
All Metal Composites
Non-Transparent PMMA
TPE (Stretchy Hand)
PP (Supports => Print Feature)
HDPE (Ass, straight ass checks) [Worst Filament]
POM (0 Friction) [Melts into Formaldehyde]
PVDF (You Better Not Fuck Up) [Gas Cyanide Maker]
TEI (Needs It's Own Machine)[Spaceship Re-entry]
-----------------------------
CF = Carbon Fibre
GF = Glass Filled
PC = Polycarbonate
Chemist here to answer your chemistry questions:
Halogenated hydrocarbons are molecules made of carbon with attached hydrogens that have some atoms of a halogen (flourine, chlorine, bromine, or iodine) attached where a hydrogen normally would be. There's a lot of these, but some examples are chloroform and some other lab/industrial solvents (which would likely dissolve or attack other filaments), some pesticides, the molecule PTFE aka Teflon (funny enough, related to the filament at hand) and a lot of other things.
Inorganic acids are a lot simpler. They are simply the acids that are NOT made of carbon. Examples include hydrochloric acid, sulfiric acid and nitric acid. Common acids that do not fit in this group are acetic acid (vinegar) and citric acid.
Also, as a side note, please don't test this. Sticking random polymers in random acids is an easy way to get chemical (or physical!) burns or otherwise damage yourself or your property. Even if it says it is "resistant" or whatever, that doesnt mean it wont react, dissolve or produce toxic, explosive or dangerous compounds. Take it from me, a chemist who has made some dumb mistakes not realizing things reacted and blowing up glassware on accident. Not as fun as it sounds.
So… don’t use it for my 3d printed toddler bath toys and kitchenware?
Thanks mate very informative appreciate it
Up to the top of the comments you go, Mate
Also, regarding PEEK, it is unfortunately not resistant to sulfuric acid or hydrobromic acid, but it is resistant to many solvents and hydrochloric acid, so still pretty badass.
Thank you for posting this, because some of these filaments should be on the no not ever list.
You're welcome (I'm exhausted 😪)
*Regular Polymers:*
*S-Tier*
[11:50] PCTG: Better than PETG, waterlogged 1/3 as fast, easy print, minimal sag, strong, expensive, hard-to-remove supports. Best regular polymer by far
[4:46] Carbon Fiber PLA (*): Stiffer, more brittle, accurate, low shrinkage, great finish
[7:34] "Tough" PLA: PLA + PBT, prints like PLA, better temp/impact resistance
[8:45] High-Speed PLA: For >300mm/s, low temp/viscosity, fast prints, great for prototyping
[11:18] Carbon Fiber PETG (*): Lower sag/warping, better stability/stiffness than PETG, shiny, good for functional prototypes
*A-Tier*
[2:54] PLA: Softens in heat, UV sensitive, brittle, limited post-processing
[10:31] PETG: Versatile, tougher/more heat resistant than PLA, low friction, hard-to-remove supports
[13:35] CF PET: Extremely stiff, easy to use, better than PET but expensive
[15:40] ASA: UV resistant, tough, matte surface, less warping than ABS, still toxic fumes
*B-Tier*
[4:00] Silk PLA: Weaker, easy support removal, puffs when printing, shiny
[6:26] Wood PLA: Weak, feels like hard wood, can be varnished
[8:10] Matte PLA: Satin surface, sandable, absorbs humidity, jams easily
[9:33] "Flex PLA" PCL: Low temp, moldable, doesn't stick to adhesives
[12:41] PET: 275°C min, stiff, tough, shiny, temp resistant, hard to print
[14:05] PVB: Prints like PLA, works like PETG, IPA vapor smoothing
[16:22] HIPS: Lightweight, good for wearables/props, dissolves in limonene
*C-Tier*
[14:44] ABS: Vapor smoothing, fast, cheap, heat resistant, tough, warps/stinks
[22:35] PMMA (acrylic): Clear, UV resistant, brittle, bad adhesion, not for 3D printing but very clear
[29:43] OBC: Semi-flexible, less warping, can use supports, hard bed adhesion
*F-Tier*
[5:45] Metal-Filled PLA: Hefty, metal properties, very brittle, expensive
[22:35] Non-transparent PMMA: No use case since it's not clear
[27:00] TPE: Too runny, generally bad
[28:17] Polypropylene (PP): Flexible, strong layers, low density/friction/temp resistance, bad adhesion, warps
[30:16] HDPE: Worst filament in every aspect
👇Check the comments for Engineering and Super polymers. Suggestions are welcome!
* Carbon Fiber filaments are pretty dangerous, the fibers come of from everything - including printing and even just using - and they get into your skin, lungs and eyes. They look nice but I wouldn't put them into S for that reason.
*Engineering Polymers*
*S-Tier*
[19:32] Glass-Filled Nylon (PA GF): Stiff, tough, heat/abrasion resistant, less warping, easy print, alternative to machined aluminum
[24:56] 99D TPU: Harder than skateboard wheel, incredibly durable, indestructible, for combat robots/tactical gear
*A-Tier*
[21:53] PC Carbon Fiber: Incredibly stiff, can overload gears/motors, cheap
[23:36] PC-PBT: Easy print, shatter resistant in cold, durable, low cost
[27:26] SEBS: Best flexible filament, but hydroscopic, smelly, softens at low temps
*B-Tier*
[17:02] PA-6 Nylon: Tough, low friction, difficult print, warps, dry box required
[18:16] PA-12 Nylon: Heat resistant, stiff, for precise parts, brittle, hot box required
[18:50] PA-6 CF Nylon: Stiffer than regular, warps less but still significantly
[21:08] Polycarbonate (PC): Tough, stiff, heat resistant, dry box required, slow print, >300°C
[29:04] PP GF: Hard to print, tough, durable, all-weather, lightweight
[24:56] 80D TPU: Like running shoe, good for bumpers/hinges, easy print, less durable than 99D
*C-Tier*
[18:50] PA-12 CF Nylon: Stiffer than regular, warps less but still significantly
[20:37] Nylon/PETG Alloys: Some nylon strength, many weaknesses
[24:56] 80A TPU: Difficult print, constant low speeds, too sweaty for wearables
*F-Tier*
[30:58] POM: Bad adhesion, slow print, toxic if overheated
[31:56] PVDF: Tough, durable, resistant, expensive, potentially poisonous gas if overheated
*Super Polymers*
*A-Tier*
[35:01] PEKK: Easier to print than PEEK, mechanically inferior but superior to most
[38:13] Ultem 1010 (PEI): Stiff, strong, resistant, perfect all-round, but 425°C hotend/160°C bed
*B-Tier*
[36:19] PSU: Weakest super polymer, heat/chemical resistant
*C-Tier*
[33:06] PEEK: Incredibly strong/tough, self-extinguishing, chemical resistant, extremely expensive, difficult to print
[35:38] PPS: Chemically resistant, expensive, high temp printing
[36:58] PES and PPSU: Similar to PSU and PEKK
[37:21] CF-PEEK: Stiffer than PEEK, less sagging, very few printers capable
*F-Tier*
[38:10] Ultem 9085 (PEI): No reason to use
[39:38] TPI: Extremely difficult to print, high temp requirements
*❗By Use-Cases❗*
*General Purpose / Top Picks*
[11:50] PCTG: Easy to print, minimal sagging, strong, water-resistant. Best all-rounder but expensive.
[4:46] Carbon Fiber PLA: Best cheap filament that's more brittle but also stiffer, accurate, low shrinkage and has a great finish
[11:18] Carbon Fiber PETG: Lower sag/warping, better stability/stiffness than PETG, shiny, good for functional prototypes
[15:40] ASA: Easy to print, UV resistant, tough filament with matte surface and less warping than ABS for outdoor use and vapor smoothing
*High-Speed Prototyping*
[8:45] High-Speed PLA: For speeds above 300mm/s. Low temp, low viscosity, fast prints.
*Functional Prototypes / Engineering Parts*
[11:18] Carbon Fiber PETG: Lower sag/warping, better stability/stiffness than PETG. Good for functional prototypes.
[19:32] Glass-Filled Nylon (PA GF): Stiff, tough, heat/abrasion resistant. Alternative to machined aluminum.
[23:36] PC-PBT: Durable, easy to print, shatter-resistant in cold temperatures.
*Outdoor / UV Resistant Parts*
[15:40] ASA: UV resistant, tough, matte surface, less warping than ABS.
*Flexible Parts / Tactical Gear*
[24:56] 99D TPU: Incredibly durable, indestructible. Great for combat robots and tactical gear.
[27:26] SEBS: Best really flexible filament, good for softer applications.
*High-Performance / Engineering Applications*
[37:46] Ultem 1010 (PEI): Extremely stiff, strong, and heat resistant. Best super polymer if you can manage the high printing temperatures.
[35:01] PEKK: Easier to print than PEEK, still superior to most other filaments mechanically.
*Lightweight Parts*
[29:04] PP GF: Tough, durable, all-weather, very lightweight. Hard to print but great results.
*Aesthetic Prints*
[4:00] Silk PLA: Shiny finish, easy support removal. Good for decorative items.
[6:26] Wood PLA: Feels like hard wood, can be varnished. Good for wood-like appearance.
[5:45] Metal-Filled PLA: Hefty, metal properties, very brittle, expensive. Hard to print but useful for their unique surface finishes and aesthetics.
*Extreme Chemical / Heat Resistance*
[33:06] PEEK: Incredibly strong/tough, self-extinguishing, chemically resistant. Difficult to print but unmatched performance.
*Composite / Fiber-Reinforced Parts*
[21:53] PC Carbon Fiber: Incredibly stiff, great for parts requiring extreme rigidity.
*Impact-Resistant Parts*
[7:34] "Tough" PLA: Better temperature and impact resistance than regular PLA.
*Vapor Smoothing / Post Processing*
[14:05] PVB: Can be smoothed with IPA vapor, prints like PLA but performs like PETG.
[15:40] ASA: Can be smoothed with Acetone, UV resistant, tough, matte surface, less warping than ABS.
You should add the metal filled variants under Aesthetic Prints too, despite zach putting it in F tier. Other commenters are saying it's difficult to print, but absolutely indispensable for the surface appearance
Thanks for this! You've probably saved me a few hours rewatching multiple times to write this all down for easier comparison and reference for myself
40:20 "30% too hot to bake cookies" is a really good way to put the crazy temperatures into perspective
Jokes on him, my cookies are Kapton Chunk
"30% too hot" is a terrible way to describe a temperature. Is it 30% hotter relative to absolute zero? Relative to 0C? Relative to 0F?
@@DanielLCarrierrelative to cookie baking temperature, you absolute dink. ~400F/200C.
Also it was a bit joke, don't take it so seriously lol
Too hot for cookies! Keep up!@@DanielLCarrier
@@DanielLCarrierseems pretty logical. 130% of typical cookie printing temperature
No one cared to list all of them yet? Well:
S: CF PLA (4:46), Tough PLA (7:34), High-Speed PLA (8:45), CF PETG (11:18), PCTG (11:50), GF Nylon (19:32), TPU 99D (24:56)
A: PLA (2:54), PETG (10:31), CF PET (13:35), ASA (15:40), CF PC (21:53), PC-PBT (23:36), SEBS (27:26), PEKK (35:01), Ultem (37:46)
B: Silk PLA (4:00), Wood PLA (6:26), Matte PLA (8:10), Flex PLA = PCL (9:33), PET (12:41), PVB (14:05), HIPS (16:22), Nylon PA-6 (17:02), Nylon PA-12 (18:16), CF Nylon PA-6 (18:50), Polycarbonate (21:08), TPU 80D (24:56), GF PP (29:04), PSU (36:19)
C: ABS (14:44), CF Nylon PA-12 (18:50), Nylon/PETG Alloys (20:37), Clear PMMA (22:35), Chocolate (24:15, disqualified), TPU 80C (24:56), OBC (29:43), PEEK (33:06), PPS (35:38), PES (36:58), PPSU (36:58), CF PEEK (37:21)
F: 5x Metal-Filled PLA (5:46), non-clear PMMA (22:35), TPE (27:00), Polypropylene (28:17), HDPE (30:16), POM (30:58), PVDF (31:56), TPI (39:38)
Thank you, I was just about to do it, glad to see someone else did it.
Thanks! This is super helpful
Obscure PETG advantage: it handles cryogenic temperature well. Now I understand most people don't have a need to store things in -80C, but PETG containers can. I have yet to test -150 and -196.
I've got access to liquid helium. - 269c. I'll float the idea.
Does PCTG handle that temp too?
@@goldgoat22float the benchie
This is actually really great to know, I routinely deal with both -80 and LN2 temperatures but haven't YET had a reason to 3D print anything for that use.
I don’t know if most Technical Data Sheets show it, but now i want CNC Kitchen Type Tests, but at various temperatures.
0c, 20c (or “close enough” room temp, just document it, and 100c *at minimum*
Whatever a Hot Car/Hot Day’s temp would be might be neat too, also like you said cryogen temperature *maybe*, but that is quite niche.
Along with Burn Tests though despite being niche can be useful!
For anyone else searching for "99D TPU", you're not gonna find it. I couldn't and I tried pretty hard. Some here suggest Zack mistakenly wrote "99D" but really meant "95A" - because he links to that in his description. However I have used 95A and it is not rigid like Zack describes in this video. It's actually still quite flexible. If you want a TPU that fits Zack's description better, try 98A TPU, which is indeed MUCH more rigid than 95A. Shore hardness must be rated on an exponential scale because the difference between 95A and 98A is surprising. It is relatively easy to print, does not bend up and clog like 95A. Both Ranki and Priline make 98A TPU, both can be found on Amazon in a variety of colors. I have found Priline's 98A TPU to be more dimensionally accurate than Ranki's 98A TPU. The prints look really nice. The finish of the Priline black and orange (only two colors I have used) is flat, very little sheen. The finish of the Ranki has slightly more sheen. Hope this helps.
thank you for this comment. very helpful. gonna order myself some Priline 98A for my a1 mini.
Thanks, this was helpful and inspired me to loop through searches on google for each possible shore hardness. Here are my top results:
NinjaTek's Armadillo line is 75D.
CC3D sells a 72D
Spriour claims to sell a 77D (I have never heard of this brand)
Essentium has a 74D
in a video by CNC Kitchen on TPUs somebody in the comments was talking about 70D (or in that direction) but nobody could find that either , at least not in EU
I don't think shore hardness is exponential. It should be linear of force vs displacement. How many 95A filaments have you tried? Your sample may be brand specific/moisture dependent. Also, 95A is pretty damn stiff from my experience. Ive read of ppl using AMS with it.
Would you be able to print 98a with a Bowden setup?
That tier platform is a genius idea, does it come in gridfinity?
@ZackFreedman
It should.
Was gonna say, I want to print a benchfinity
This.
…Also a Hextraction Tile where if you hit it it gifts you a cool benchy.
You could almost call it a Pier list
I'm annoyed about having iron filled composite in F-tier, if only because that particular blend is awesome for prototyping things that require magnetic properties, like brushless DC motor components and so on. For all the other metal-filled composites, I agree that painting will largely give the same effect, but when you don't have a CNC mill, and want a part with "some" of the properties of iron, then an iron composite filament absolutely serves a very legitimate purpose. Oh, and its surface finish is about on par with PLA-CF, just IMO.
The magnetic properties will be much lower than just using metal though.
What advantage do you have making your own brushless motor cores anyway? Just as an educational exercise it may be fine but it isn’t a great idea.
Also most things to do with iron and magnets or electricity get hot, PLA can only withstand 50-60 Celsius so it is a rubbish material for motors, electromagnets, transformers, etc, where you would normally just use steel.
@@conorstewart2214Of course it's for educational and prototyping purposes. I'm not suggesting usual those materials for production. That would be madness.
Given that many commonly available Neodymium start to lose their magnetism about 80C, then temperature control isn't something that can easily be fixed by simply using steel. One part of the prototyping aspect is ensuring that there's sufficient air-flow to keep it all cool. The 50-60C max operating temperature of PLA can actually serve as a handy canary in the mine in this instance. If it's starting to warp and deform then chances are there's something wrong with your design.
The point being is that there is a legitimate purpose. A good example of such on TH-cam would be this: th-cam.com/video/NFvMC3l3fGY/w-d-xo.html
Pretty niche case. Just order a 3d print or have an actual cast iron part done. Not as expensive as you might think.
You can try the metal filament from BASF, it is expensive but works really good and at the end you have stainless steel
What is the need for the left eye thing? It's off-putting
FWIW I have printed a fair amount of straight-up PP on my X1C - it's really easy to get bed adhesion: clear packing tape is PP, so just put strips of packing tape on your bed and you're off to the races. You'll want to have an enclosed printer to avoid warping. Print with minimal cooling (read 'print it slow ') to get the best looking prints. Major plus points for PP: complete layer adhesion PLUS food-grade (use a Stainless nozzle for only PP to avoid contamination) make it very useful for anything food-grade and industry.
The material itself may be food grade but that doesn’t mean the printed part is.
PP is a great material if you can get it to work, it is very durable.
“Straight up PP” 🧐🧐🧐
and it can take the heat so you can sterilize it, and its recycle code 5
PVDF is resistant to haloganated hydrocarbons because it is one itself, i.e. it's a fluoroganated hydrocarbon and fluoride make some of the strongest bonds in organic chemistry, which is why it's also resistant to inorganic acids, it simply just doesn't react with anything.
PVDF is also widely used in biology as it has several advantages over nitrocellulose when it comes to binding proteins. Very commonly used as a thin sheet for immunoblots.
@@madengineer9072 can you say more? I remember using pvdf membranes for running westerns many moons ago and I never dug into why it was so desirable
It does seem that the best chemical resistance comes from the nastiest chemicals.
@iankampine285 A couple of reasons actually. PVDF has better detection sensitivity, and better protein binding capacity, it is also in my experience much more durable than nitrocellulose when handling it so is easier to strip and reprobe a PVDF membrane. There are still reasons to use nitrocellulose at times of course (like if doing a Northern) but PVDF is a good all around material so is much more common in the lab these days. I've used both and the nitrocellulose was always in my opinion just more finicky and seemed to give a bit of an uglier blot. Also, as an aside nitrocellulose as you can imagine is flammable. Old lab trick was to light a small amount as it burns very very quick without any residue so looks like it just disappears in a flash.
@@conorstewart2214Makes sense though. It's like trying to burn ash. The nasty things have already attacked the material, and aren't going to just let go.
To Zack, or any other 3D printing youtuber interested, TPU is great for printing gaskets for engines. I made some carb bowl and intake gaskets from TPU for my Honda XR50 rebuild and it's still holding strong. It's probably been almost 2 years now and should go back to see how the inside of the gasket is doing, but the chemical resistance is superior enough that it'll get you through those types of projects when waiting on snail mail is the alternative. It's something worth exploring if someone is interested in making a video.
What kind of TPU?
I don't remotely know how to even begin 3D printing, but I've watched every single one of these filament videos so far because I love the way Zack presents everything
"Type it in to Notepad and unplug your computer." Perfect example of why you can never let your mind wander during his videos, you'd miss all of the perfectly planned puns, paradoxes, and pontifications.
POM sticks very well to PLA so if you print the first layer in PLA it's actually somewhat printable
still a total pain in the ass though
As friendly as possible: Did you actually try this or did you read this info somewhere? I wish someone would print POM on rayon or cellophane. I'm fairly confident people would be happier.
@@3dPrintingMillennial I've printed with it a fair bit. It's really useful if you need low friction. But it warps a lot in my unheated bad enclosure.
Its really strong though and the layer adhesion is incredible.
I try tobavoid using it but if I have to, I do have the option.
@@folkevongen6442 have you tested out nylons instead? Also you can get low friction filament, Igus makes some which containers solid lubricant but you can also get PC-PTFE or PETG-PTFE as well, which is basically just the base filament with PTFE added which gives it a very low coefficient of friction and high wear resistance.
@@folkevongen6442 Curious what you make that has you needing to use POM sometimes
@@justtwoseats a filament spooler had a shaft that rubbed up against the frame causing the frame to get pretty warm and wearing down. Printing the bit of the shaft that rubbed in POM did the trick.
And an adapter for a drill to that same spooler kept breaking, POM worked well for that as well.
There are probably better options for what i need, POM just intrigued me.
A local manufacturer in South Africa has some really interesting filaments that I haven't seen or heard of anywhere else. Like SBS (Styrene-butadiene-styrene) which not hydroscopic, slightly flexible and slightly translucent that looks very nice when printed in vase mode. TPR(thermoplastic rubber) which also isn't hydroscopic with a shores hardness of 90. ABS-X, ABS but easier to print on an open printer ("all the benefits of ABS but without the hassles"). Lastly PLA Wayless which describes it's self, light weight PLA perfect for RC and drone parts.
Always enjoy your video!!
Could you have them email me? I’d love to try some of those on the next Every Filament episode.
@@ZackFreedman
I sent your message and deeds to the owner. I hope he reaches out to you!!
TPR is a tricky bugger but so worth it!
Hopefully you guys got in contact!
SA Filament ?
@@meisievannancy
FilX
This man has Single handelt helped me chill out and be exited after having 3 tests in 1 day. Legend. Subbed.
I’ve experimented with a lot of different filaments but still didn’t know about half of these. Fantastic rundown, thank you!
"Prusha and BambuLabs the two genders" -- VoidStarLab Hahahahah I am stealing this!
Uhhm, what about Voron-Binary? xD
I personally like Creality-Sexual
We all try to forget about the Creality K1-courious gender...
Is Monoprice Ender3 clone a gender?
Does that mean my Qidi is the Q in LGBTQ? Though I guess that's a preference more than a gender.
Hell yeah! Thanks for taking the time to make this! Will be referencing this in the future
Gonna have to hard disagree on the metal bearing filaments. They can be a pain in the ass, and yes, you can electroplate, but when trying to make either cosplay items or artifacts/props from video games and movies the ability to rust/patina them and to sand them to a very metal appearance, it's straight up far far better than electroplating. With electroplating you can get nice shiny metal finishes, but these filaments absolutely slay if you want aged and weathered metallic finishes.
His tier list encompasses all the use cases possible not just your one specific hyper niche use case
@rodiculous9464 I'll note that the rubric included what uses cases the filament enables, and cosplay / props isn't a small niche
Gonna have to note that there are multiple million+ subscriber youtube channels dedicated to these activities.
First video I’ve seen by this channel, I don’t know a thing about materials science or 3d printing but the HF rant and the dwarf fortress analogy easily earned a new subscriber!!
Leaving a comment about PVDF as a chemist - indeed it's indestructible! It can withstand paint stripper (halogenated organic solvent) and concentrated battery acid (inorganic acid)! Warps like hell, has poor bed adhesion (I was only able to print it with Vision Miner's Nano Polymer Adhesive on the print bed), but if you find a way around warping - it's actually quite pleasant to print
I was able to print it on G10 (Garolite), with the bed about 105C.
A second choice is to print it on PVA. One easy technique is to model a sheet of PVA that it one layer thick. Place your part on top of that. You basically print one time use build surfaces.
I use upgraded 3ntr printers and have a dual extruder capable setup.
I've also sent this message to two other people in this comment section here, but I have a question about this and Zack's statement that it becomes deadly just a few degrees above the print temp.
I have some old injection molded parts I am in the process of replacing with printed parts that need to survive for years being exposed to chlorine gas. I'm an industrial design engineer and I did a minor in polymers and associated production processes, so I understood the potential risks of PVDF well enough when it came through my materials research as one of the only two viable options along with PPS that can be done in FDM and meets the chemical requirements.
However, from my understanding is that degradation and thus the extremely toxic byproducts like hydrogen fluoride, whilst extremely toxic, are actually very unlikely to occur since thanks to its fluor bonds being so strong - taking a lot of energy to break- it has a huge safety delta between the processing (~250°C) and degradation (~400°C) temperatures. Much higher than a lot of common polymers which seem to have around a 50-80 degree safety margin and obviously much much higher than it's chemical cousin PVC since its delta is actually negative.
This does not gel with what Zack is saying here, where he talks about even a few degrees causing the release of dangerous amounts of toxic chemicals. I would really like to understand this well, since this is a potentially dangerous situation I would like to avoid. I know that degradation doesn't happen at a set temperature, because of polydispersity shorter chains will degrade sooner, but I cannot imagine that to be such a factor that a few degrees above processing temps it is suddenly deadly.
Do you have any insight on this?
@@martvansteenbergen8955 just heating up this polymer to melting won't cause any problems, as you said, it's very stable up until very high temp with significant margin. But if you overheat it beyond decomposition temperature, that's where it becomes dangerous. PVDF decomposes into reactive and toxic fluorinated gases, including HF, and those are very bad for you. So the point is - don't let it drip into heating element where it could overheat and cake up.
Side note - these ptoxic products of decomposition are similar to ones of PTFE (Teflon), and are especially toxic to birds. To the point that if you have non-stick cookware and have a parrot for example, the bird's life expectancy is halved
what is it about it that makes it immune to acids? I thought acids' whole thing was eating apart anything (but yea i guess something has to be able to hold them...)
I’ve been printing for years and, aside from those basic videos needed to get you started, this might be the single most useful video on 3d printing I’ve watched. So much better than just a comparison of different brands, it analyzes filament materials by their properties. Very impressive.
These tutorials on filament are so good. They are my go to in sharing with people who just start printing
Hey Zack if you wanna run some TPI/PEEK/PEKK/Ultems or other super polymers, we've got two crazy high temp printers just sitting in our warehouse. They'd need some love, but could be a fun project breaking down an industrial system and fixing/upgrading them. One is a 3ntr Spectral 30 which has 3 nozzles that can reach 500C and a chamber that can reach 250C. The other is a Smart3D macro engineering prototype, but it can also hit the 500C with 2 nozzles and 200C chamber (though it took nearly 2 hours to hit that chamber temp when we tried it). If you're interested in either of them, we can let them go for practically nothing and would love to see them put to use!
Peek hoovers up water like a dam.
it was a comment on the recent lack of water in lake mead if I'm not mistaken
Like a... Hoover?
99% of everything I print is PETG. It's a bit slower, but I have consistently gotten killer results and the resulting products are strong and with enough flex that they can handle a lot of real life. Doesn't deform, handles higher temps. It's just a great allrounder. I'll have to check out some PCTG, though!
The plastic creep with PETG is a problem though. Anything under load will creep over time. PETG-CF helps with this but it can still happen and makes it more brittle.
Anyone with an enclosed printer outside of their room and/or has a decent air filter system to catch VOCs should look at printing ASA/ABS. Once you get used to it, I find it easier to print, looks nicer, post-processes extremely well and most importantly doesn't succumb to creep. It's perfect for mounting things inside the printer where warm air temps will cause issues with PETG and PLA. CF-ASA is one of the best prototyping materials out there IMO.
I guess PCTG is a bit softer and can deform - which contributes to impact resistance, it can absorb energy, but at the price of being partially damaged, PETG is more brittle. PCTG is more shiny and I guess more transparent. I think difference is how it breaks and it does not stick to itself where it should not that well, so it can print some in-place parts with tight tolerances. My experience with PETG is that small parts can break off PEI plate. Question is if it sacrifice like 40% higher cost. Also it may smell, at least some variants.
Fun fact, the powersteering and waterpump pulleys on my car is injection molded PA-GF 30
Less fun fact: The desk chair I am using is from Ikea and made of injection molded PA-CF 30.
@@amicloud_ytfor real or no?
Guessing a joke, but also PA-CF 30 chair sounds neat?
Yes, glass fiber reinforced nylons are used all over the place in injection molded parts that require greater rigidity and strength than straight nylon. Plastic parts in power tools are frequently GF-nylon.
@@ericlotze7724 Nope, not a joke. I remember being very surprised when I saw the markings on the plastic!
you are a mad man. i barley have the attention span to watch this video. which is an amazing video. you are a real asset to the 3d printing community for having the patience to do this video. hats off to you my man. def deserves a sub
The best days involve new Zack Freedman videos
S Tier:
CF PLA 4:45
"Tough" PLA 7:35
"High Speed" PLA 8:45
CF PETG 11:18
PCTG 11:50
Glass-Filled Nylon 19:33
High Durometer TPU 24:59
Hahaha I was literally compiling my own list while watching this just now.
The edge case filaments are fun, but this is the first tier-ranking youtube video I've watched that's actually useful. Thanks Zack!
I’ve awarded your hard work with a thumbs up.
Awww yiss the filament series really soothes my autism.
😂
Yes! Finally PCTG gets the recognition it deserves! I stumbled across it while looking for something that improves upon PETG, but it is truly shocking just how much better it is. I really think it has the potential to replace PLA in the near future.
It won’t come close to replacing PLA until the cost comes down significantly.
I just ordered some PCTG. Any printing tips?
I've been printing with Polymaker PC 3kg spools on my Bambu Labs X1. It's been awesome. I live in Florida and moisture hasn't been an issue. I've Made lamp shades and aquaponics towers with it. It's become my favorite filament
I am also in florida and have an X1C coming on monday. Wooo
The PC that is generally available (Bambu and Polymaker) I understand to be PC and PETG, although exact composition is difficult to come by. Regardless, it prints great on the Bambu X1C. Easier to work with than the PETG filaments, as it releases from same material support and sticks to a glue surface on a PEI bed when hot, but releases at room temp. If it came in more colors, it would be perfect.
A tier list like that where the entire 3d printing community can contribute would be amazing. Everyone can downvote/upvote any material and then you could click on the material and see which manufacturers are recommended for it.
I am home from school today because im feeling a bit under the weather, and this is the perfect pick-me-up i could get!!
I can also recommended cat videos, the kuffness in particular. And yes I'm here for the 3d purrrinting. :)
Hope you feel better!
@@StroalOutdoorsI am now!
I guess it was just a one day ailment or something!!
PC-PBT-CF15. S tier. As strong as PA12, dimensionally stable like PLA, does not embrittle at low temps, high fatigue resistance, high toughness, and decent HDT. Once your printer is dialed in, it's my favorite filament for engineering projects by far.
Been following the series you did a great job explaining these for beginners and really helped with deciding which other filiments to try other than Pla and what you actually need your printer to be able to do in order to achieve this! Thanks taking the headaches away and cutting research times down substantially! I appreciate your work and look forward to your future videos 🤙
*Full Tier List*
*S Tier:*
*Carbon Fiber PLA (**4:50**):* Enhances stiffness/detail without losing PLA ease.
*High-Speed PLA (**8:48**):* Faster printing, retains quality.
*“Tough” PLA (**7:39**):* Greater strength and heat resistance than regular PLA.
*Carbon Fiber PETG (**11:19**):* Adds stiffness to PETG, with less warping.
*PCTG (**11:57**):* Durable, impact-resistant, better chemical resistance than PETG.
*TPU (**9:37** & **24:56**):* Flexible, durable, for protective/wearable applications.
*Glass-Filled Nylon (**19:39**):* High strength/rigidity, for functional parts.
*SEBS (**27:26**):* Stretchable, returns to original shape, for special uses.
*A Tier:*
*PETG (**10:35**):* Good toughness, easier to print than ABS.
*CF PET (**13:36**):* PET with carbon fiber, stiffer with good printability.
*PC-PBT (**23:36**):* Durable, low-warp, versatile.
*PEKK (**35:01**):* High performance for extreme conditions.
*Ultem 1010 (**37:50**):* Excellent thermal and chemical resistance, challenging to print.
*PPS (**35:38**):* Chemical and heat resistant, tough.
*B Tier:*
*Regular PLA (**2:54**):* Easy to print, wide color variety, less durable.
*Silk PLA (**4:02**):* Shiny finish, visually appealing, weaker than standard PLA.
*Matte PLA (**8:10**):* Aesthetic matte appearance, slightly flexible.
*PA-6 Nylon (**17:02**):* Durable, flexible, moisture sensitive.
*PA-12 Nylon (**18:16**):* More flexible and impact resistant than PA-6.
*CF Nylon (**18:50**):* Strength of nylon with added rigidity of carbon fiber.
*GF-PP (**29:04**):* Tough and lightweight, difficult due to warping.
*PSU (**36:19**):* High heat resistance, suitable for food contact.
*C Tier:*
*Metal-Filled PLA (**5:45**):* For aesthetics but brittle and expensive.
*PVB (**14:05**):* Unique post-processing opportunities, some challenges in printing.
*OBC (**29:43**):* Tough and flexible but struggles with bed adhesion.
*D Tier:*
*Wood PLA (**6:26**):* Wood-like finish, can be challenging to print.
*HIPS (**16:22**):* Used as a support material, less common with alternatives.
*ASA (**15:40**):* Good for outdoor use, careful printing required.
*ABS (**14:44**):* Durable and heat-resistant, emits odors, difficult to print.
*F Tier:*
*POM (**30:58**):* Engineering material, hard to print.
*Polypropylene (**28:17**):* Durable, notoriously difficult for bed adhesion.
*HDPE (**30:16**):* Common plastic, poor for 3D printing.
*PVDF (**31:56**):* Chemically resistant, hazardous when overheated.
*PEEK (**33:06**):* High performance, prohibitively expensive and difficult.
Thanks man
The Polymaker PA6-CF is something special. Currently printing it using an off the shelf Ankermake M5C with zero issues. I did have to edit a few settings to help oozing, but it prints just as well as PLA now.
love it
What you were talking about is a class of chemicals like 1,1,1 Trichloretholine. It is illegal to possess in the US, it's actually illegal to enter the territorial waters of the US with a drop of it. I worked with it in the 80s and 90s. I put chemical resistant gloves in it and they dissolved. There is residue of it in the hubble because we used it to clean the encoding boards with it. It was the only thing to dissolve the lead in the solder we used. It was silver resistant so it left pure silver behind. It was used because we couldn't get 100%silver, we used 99.9997% silver and trichlor killed that last tiny bit of lead.
PVDF would be an awesome thing to print because in applications where hydrofluoric acid(HF) is used to etch the surface of titanium, racks made of this stuff are what you set up the pieces on. In designing those, you have to make absolutely sure there are no flat spots or cavities for acid to pool or gather
You can but PP can do that as well and is cheaper. PP glue stick, 100% infill and a 20 mm brim will get you most of the way. If you need support try and do it only on flat surfaces where you can get a knife in between. Also print support with a 250-300% offset from the printed object. This has worked for me at least.
yeah man, you DID fucking convince me to use some of the filaments i didn't know before. You deserve a gold medal for that video and I hope someone gives you what you need. This video is basically the first shit i needed to see when starting 3D printing (I starded less than 24h ago, so it's allright)
I always love your Filament videos. I didn't even know some of these existed. And while I don't see myself printing TPI ever in my entire lifetime, thanks!
Chemist here,
PVDF is what nice filters are made of. It's nice because it's resistant to chloroform and methylene chloride (halogenated hydrocarbons). It's also great for centrifuge tubes. There are a lot of times when we want to dissolve everything we can, then selectively precipitate what we want.
The SainSmart TPU in description is 95A, not 99D. I don't think there are 99D TPU filaments available.
was looking for that 99d tpu too. wonder if it's rigid enough for drone frames.
@@iiianydayiii Armadillo TPU from NINJATECH is 75D and pretty much up there in the hardness scale
@@antoinepapillon481 thanks Antoine
S Tier Filaments
4:46 Carbon Fiber PLA
7:34 “Tough” (PBT) PLA
8:55 High-Speed PLA
11:18 Carbon Fiber PETG
11:50 PCTG (close to perfect, top of s tier)
19:32 Glass-Filled Nylon
25:35 TPU (~99D)
backup
As a company that does filament sample boxes, this was an absolute amazing video!
And you're letting a TH-camr do your research?
@@orngjce223 not at all, I'm not using his video as research as I supply a variety of filaments so subscribers can test and come to their own conclusions. Just watched as a fan of his channel and thought he did an amazing job at informing the viewers about a vast variety of filament options there are.
@@orngjce223Who better to make a video like this if not an engineer who has personal experience with all these filaments?
Legit has like 2/3 of these filaments because of Maker Box ;)
I live in a really harsh moist environment. We get below freezing for a few weeks in the winter, then over a hundred degrees Fahrenheit in the summer. I like making little things for my friends, but it's hard to find a good filament that doesn't suck up moisture or withstand melting in a car window. I printed a little guy for my mom a few years ago, and she displayed it in her car for a few months in the summer, and he was half the size she should have been 💀
TPU is all that you say it is….minus the shatterproof bit, at least at sub zero temperatures
Once frozen, breaks like glass
So there’s a temperature for this amorphous material, below which it transitions into a glass… interesting
But really, that’s a fantastic starting point for learning about the thermal properties of these materials. And being “thermoplastics”, it’s kind of an important part
At my clinic we used to use peek for skull bone replacement implants. They cost several thousand euros, so a year or 2 ago we switched to having cheap but precise negatives printed and we use hydroxy appattite cement to form the actual implants. Works just as well if you know some very simple tricks but it's much cheaper and faster to order.
Some colleagues at other clinics even print their own implants or negatives at the clinic but that's a bit of a difficult process to implement.
While it's awful for printing, HDPE is *fantastic* for milling. It cuts like butter.
It's funny that he mentioned Delrin immediately after HDPE and mentioned that it's great for milling. Which is also true!
Turned some endcaps out of 6" diameter HDPE cylinders, the smooth ribbons that came off were a sight to behold.
@@defenestrated23 Ooo, I've never turned it, so I've yet to experience such beauty. Turning aluminum with nice sharp tools has produced ribbony chips for me, but they were somewhat worrying due to concerns about overheating.
I just wanna say that I love your Thanks! (end credits). Please never stop doing that.
Matte PLA from Bambu Lab is PLA + Calcium carbonate, which is interesting.
Great vid! Awesome work! I do disagree about the ABS-rating, it’s my goto filament. Even big models prints fantastic, without warping on X1C with textured PEI plate. You just have to design your models to try and avoid bridges, and I always print with a brim. 🙌
We've had some Ultem 1010 parts made for my work. They're going to be in some spicy conditions so I hope it works as well as you expect!
Great list, but its harder to take it very seriously when 5/7 of your S tier materials are sponsored products.
Still, this is a very well done informative video. Thanks
Dude, you drove my dog off the couch. I'm amused, entertained and informed. thanks.
Single best 3D printing video on YT right now. Brilliant, thank you.
Informative and funny.
I'd like to see the filaments split in cost columns so we mere mortals can see what is affordable.
Holy crap, i'm finally managing to have mi Monoprice Ultimate 3D printer to not fail a 5 hours-print and been using only PLA, didn't knew how much filaments (and chocolate) are out there, might try some of those first S-tier
Also, not sure if it's because the material or the printer, but seeing how im not the only one not having perfect overhangs just makes me see that it's not absolutley a problem of my settings (or printer)
Maybe it is, but im just glad i finally have a useful printer afte 3 years of coming back and leaving after a first fail
32:30 Yeah, only had one bioorganic chemistry class... nonorganic acids I understand though. Strong acids like Hydrochloric Acid.
Nylon CF is one of the easier material to print. I dont have a heated chamber but put a bit of magigoo on the print plate, heat it to 100°C and done. Perfect engineering grade 3D prints 😄
Just a suggestion for longer videos like this. Add text overlay when talking about specific thing so I don't have to go back if I didn't catch what type of filament you are talking about.
This has to be the GOAT of 3D printing videos😂 Honestly incredible tier list and the banter was just amazing
You put CF PLA in S but ASA in A? Have you actually checked the usefulness of CF PLA? It looks pretty, it has slightly better heat resistance to regular PLA. It’s more brittle, its mechanical properties are horrible. Other than making something that has no load or heat exposure and no impact. It’s more or less useless unless you just want the matte cf finish. It’s not more precise, it just looks smoother due to the fibers.
ASA is as good as ABS and has UV resistance. 16:30
ASA is awesome! You don't get the shininess of ABS but you lose the massive warping issues, it doesn't stink when it's printing, and it's weather resistant without needing coating
@@greensheen8759 but then again it cracks on bigger prints
@@greensheen8759I have ASA filaments that still comes very shiny and vapor polishing ends up nearly the same as ABS. CF-ASA is a dream to work with... just be mindful of those tiny fibers that can get embedded in skin and a potential hazard when post processing.
My new favorite indestructible filament is a 72D hardness TPU/Nylon from CC3D. 72D is somewhere between shipping cart wheel and hardhat hardness. Amazing stuff.
Excited to see this!
I’ve been binging this whole TH-cam channel over the last couple days. It’s so wildly good lol
I'm waiting for the psu nozzle video
These videos compete for my favorite 3D printing videos ever. If you came up with 10 hours of content on this I could probably nerd out to it all in one sitting if I had the time. Thanks for another great one.
Where did you get the 99D TPU? I’ve been searching for this for quite a while!
Edit, the link in the details is for 95A TPU. I already have that.
Right? I want it so bad to try in the AMD where they explicitly say not to use it.
What makes you think PLA can't be sanded, glued or painted? There are plenty of videos of people doing all those things with PLA for cosplay props and other stuff. Sure you can't go at it for 15 minutes with an angle grinder and you can't just use the same glue as for paper, but it is absolutely possible.
For the life of me I cant find the 99D TPU, am I going crazy?
So there are a few different measuring scales when classifying how compressible something is...
I think 99D is roughly equivalent to 95A.
Thus video goes over it in good detail:
th-cam.com/video/3VulaksxOio/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mK9xPP82q_x8Yqmk
@@Chris-oj7ro No, 95A is equivalent to 50D. And he absolutely did mix it up, he meant 99A.
S - pla, 95a tpu (alot of uses, simple to print)
A- wood pla ( exstreamly fun to showoff but brittle)
B- ninjaflex, carbon (harder to print but has some few uses)
C-Abs (no inclosure ) petg (cheap petg??)
my list of the few iv tryed. might try some pla + soon
I can't seem to find 99D TPU. The link in the description links to 95A.
95A is fine in my experience, its a little flexible, but will be just a strong. Basically indestructible, and for all intents and purposes rigid, at least if printed with high (or 100%) infill.
Armadillo from Ninjatek is 75D, but is way more expensive (100$/kg)
Thanks, this is great work...as a noob, this will stop me from betting the farm on something that won't work. Future Suggestion, Started at S-tier filaments and work your way down to the F-tier. I think it's fantastic that you mention these because it doesn't leave anyone wondering if you missed it and that it might be the holy grail. I appreciate your sacrifice brother for the community!
abs warps more than star trek.
Zack out here extruding that quality content. super useful
The fact that I had to scroll through at least 40 comments to see a donation pisses me off. W for donating man.
what is the fluffy as a cloud type 0:06
lightweight PLA
Text and CSV versions of the list:
Text:
Class Tier Name
1PLA 1S CF-PLA
2PLA Alloys 1S CF-PETG
2PLA Alloys 1S PCTG
2PLA Alloys 1S Tough PLA
3Engineering Polymers 1S PA-GF
4Flexibles 1S 99D TPU (Hard)
1PLA A Regular PLA
2PLA Alloys A ASA
2PLA Alloys A CF-PET
2PLA Alloys A PETG
3Engineering Polymers A CF-PC
3Engineering Polymers A PC-BT
4Flexibles A SEBS
5Obnoxious A PEI 1010 ULTEM
5Obnoxious A PEKK
1PLA B Silk PLA
1PLA B Wood PLA
2PLA Alloys B Flex PLA (PCL)
2PLA Alloys B HIPS
2PLA Alloys B PETG
2PLA Alloys B PVB
3Engineering Polymers B PA-12 Nylon
3Engineering Polymers B PA-6 Nylon
3Engineering Polymers B PA6-CF Nylon
3Engineering Polymers B PC
4Flexibles B 95A TPU (Semi-Flexible)
5Obnoxious B PSU
2PLA Alloys C ABS
3Engineering Polymers C Nylon-PET Alloys
3Engineering Polymers C PA12-CF Nylon
3Engineering Polymers C PMMA Acrylic
4Flexibles C 88D TPU (Soft)
5Obnoxious C CF-PEEK
5Obnoxious C OBC
5Obnoxious C PEEK
5Obnoxious C PES
5Obnoxious C PPS
5Obnoxious C PPSU
1PLA F Metal Filled PLA
4Flexibles F TPE
5Obnoxious F HDPE
5Obnoxious F PEI 9085 ULTEM
5Obnoxious F POM
5Obnoxious F PP
5Obnoxious F PVDF
5Obnoxious F TPI (Capton)
CSV:
Class,Tier,Name
1PLA,1S,CF-PLA
2PLA Alloys,1S,CF-PETG
2PLA Alloys,1S,PCTG
2PLA Alloys,1S,Tough PLA
3Engineering Polymers,1S,PA-GF
4Flexibles,1S,99D TPU (Hard)
1PLA,A,Regular PLA
2PLA Alloys,A,ASA
2PLA Alloys,A,CF-PET
2PLA Alloys,A,PETG
3Engineering Polymers,A,CF-PC
3Engineering Polymers,A,PC-BT
4Flexibles,A,SEBS
5Obnoxious,A,PEI 1010 ULTEM
5Obnoxious,A,PEKK
1PLA,B,Silk PLA
1PLA,B,Wood PLA
2PLA Alloys,B,Flex PLA (PCL)
2PLA Alloys,B,HIPS
2PLA Alloys,B,PETG
2PLA Alloys,B,PVB
3Engineering Polymers,B,PA-12 Nylon
3Engineering Polymers,B,PA-6 Nylon
3Engineering Polymers,B,PA6-CF Nylon
3Engineering Polymers,B,PC
4Flexibles,B,95A TPU (Semi-Flexible)
5Obnoxious,B,PSU
2PLA Alloys,C,ABS
3Engineering Polymers,C,Nylon-PET Alloys
3Engineering Polymers,C,PA12-CF Nylon
3Engineering Polymers,C,PMMA Acrylic
4Flexibles,C,88D TPU (Soft)
5Obnoxious,C,CF-PEEK
5Obnoxious,C,OBC
5Obnoxious,C,PEEK
5Obnoxious,C,PES
5Obnoxious,C,PPS
5Obnoxious,C,PPSU
1PLA,F,Metal Filled PLA
4Flexibles,F,TPE
5Obnoxious,F,HDPE
5Obnoxious,F,PEI 9085 ULTEM
5Obnoxious,F,POM
5Obnoxious,F,PP
5Obnoxious,F,PVDF
5Obnoxious,F,TPI (Capton)
GIRL WHY DID YOU NEED TO CENSOR "BISEXUAL" LMAOOOOOO
I use PP for lab stuff, running experiments with more bed materials. So far only sacrificial packing tape works well enough.
I am also experimenting with POM, literally impossible to get a good print with a normal printer. I definitely do want to figure it out for some scuba stuff. Current test is a phenolic paper surface.
In the Every filaments II video, Zack talks about Fillamentum PP 2320, which is a Polypropylene formulation that optimized for ease of printing, it's not hard to print, I use it a lot for chemistry/lab stuff. It's quite good
Such a dishonest title. Promising a tier list and delivering an array of boats.
PP when you can get it to work is great, it is very durable and pretty flexible. On the X1C and ender 3, the only thing that stuck was clear tape, the tape pretty much becomes part of the print.
I am more and more convinced that this idea that you can print everything and anything is wrong. By sticking to easy to use materials and then using other methods to make parts (especially engineering parts) we can achieve significant better results then with just 3d printing in significantly less time.
I am currently exploring casting (both hot and cold) and using machined parts (like on lathe and mill machined - both plastic and metal) and incorporating that into my projects
The amount of effort and information on this video makes it so I have to give it a like and subscribe. I always appreciate a good video no matter the subject. Well done!
My only disagreement would be to move iron filled filament up at least one step, I've found it's magnetic properties can be really useful for prototyping motors and magnetic gearboxes. Compared to trying to machine a big chunk of iron or managing to get ahold of electrical steel I'd much rather work around it's drawbacks.
love your Aura ad read. I've never heard such a full-throated personal endorsement of a sponsor that aligns with your values
Matte PLA (Polyterra in particular) is S tier for me. No layer lines, colours that are nice enough to not require painting and besides needing to dry a little more frequently it's a breeze to print. It's been the only PLA I've used since buying my P1S 6 months ago.