The 3D Filament Tier List! Which Should YOU Use?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2024
- This episode is sponsored by Aura! Take your secrets off the market with 2 free weeks: aura.com/zackfreedman
Physical tier list STLs: than.gs/m/1030965?...
Based on the 3D Benchy Dry Dock Display Stand by 3D Print Burgas: makerworld.com/en/models/1330...
Make me read your silly name! / zackfreedman
Tell me your deepest secrets*: / discord
Filament Links (most give me affiliate bucks)
PLA: Protopasta bit.ly/3wVoJyM
Silk PLA: Inland amzn.to/4cs4cSP
Carbon Fiber PLA: Inland (sponsored) bit.ly/49PfHBH
Metal Filled PLA: Protopasta bit.ly/4aqHEka, bit.ly/3VerIMI, bit.ly/3VchzQL, bit.ly/49PfQVL, bit.ly/3VjOJ0K
Wood PLA: Protopasta amzn.to/4cfjk5F
“Tough” PLA: Inland (sponsored) amzn.to/48YKT05
Matte PLA: Polymaker amzn.to/43kB8bt
High-Speed PLA: Sunlu PLA Meta (sponsored) amzn.to/3T7PQOs
“Flex PLA” PCL: Thibra bit.ly/48SehoW (thanks Wren from the Discord for the historic Makerbot Flex PLA!)
PETG: Taulman bit.ly/3Vi1dGe
Carbon Fiber PETG: Prusa Prusament by Josef “Stop calling me Josef ‘Prusament from Prusa Research’ Prusa” Prusa of Prusa Research (sponsored) bit.ly/4chld1Y
PCTG: 3DFuel amzn.to/3T98jKk
PET: Fusion bit.ly/4abjMQv
CF PET: Bambu Labs (sponsored) bit.ly/3TxIGoa
PVB: PolyMaker bit.ly/3TiWwJP
ABS: Gizmo Dorks amzn.to/3IA1Gfm
ASA: Inland (sponsored) amzn.to/48RYVRk
HIPS: Gizmodorks amzn.to/3Tjdvvt
PA-6 Nylon: SainSmart amzn.to/4a9pOkK
PA-12 Nylon: Fillamentum Fishy Filament (not on the market yet)
PA-6 CF: Matterhackers (sponsored) bit.ly/3Vf4xlm
PA-12-CF: Raise3D Industrial PA12-CF bit.ly/3TjxMB5
Glass-Filled Nylon: Phaetus (sponsored) bit.ly/49HvrH3
Nylon/PETG: Taulman (sponsored) bit.ly/3IAw3lP
Polycarbonate: Inland bit.ly/4ccrdsG
PC Carbon Fiber: Priline amzn.to/49OKyP6
PMMA: Mitsubishi bit.ly/4cg0lbi
PC-PBT: PolyMaker amzn.to/3TA0dvN
Chocolate: Cocoa Press bit.ly/4cbRHdL
TPU (Rigid): SainSmart amzn.to/4adGNma
TPU (Semi-Flex): NinjaTek (sponsored) bit.ly/3Pldiqx
TPU (Soft): Recreus bit.ly/3Pj9XYO
TPE: NinjaTek bit.ly/3IDazF8
SEBS: Jabil amzn.to/3TjqvBh
Polypropylene: FormFutura amzn.to/4a6JgP0
GF-PP: 3DXTech (sponsored) amzn.to/49S879w
OBC: 3DXTech (sponsored) bit.ly/43iKm8e
HDPE: Inland amzn.to/3TgDzr9
POM: GizmoDorks amzn.to/4acCqHE
PVDF: Fillamentum bit.ly/4a8dTUj
PEEK: 3DXTech bit.ly/3o2zQzr
PEKK: 3DXTech bit.ly/4a8GEAe
PPS: 3DXTech bit.ly/3PjE4zx
PSU: 3DXTech bit.ly/3TvGGwx
PES: 3DXTech bit.ly/3Tf8RyC
PPSU: 3DXTech bit.ly/3zzZttz
CF-PEEK: 3DXTech bit.ly/2XOZaxx
Ultem 1010 (sponsored): 3DXTech bit.ly/3IBpYWd
Ultem 9085: 3DXTech bit.ly/3zDsKUc
TPI: 3DXTech (sponsored) bit.ly/3TzhXaA
Timetable!
00:00-2:54 Intro
2:54-4:00 Regular PLA
4:00-4:46 Silk PLA
4:46-5:45 Carbon Fiber PLA
5:45-6:26 Metal-Filled PLA
6:26-7:34 Wood PLA
7:34-8:10 “Tough” PLA
8:10-8:45 Matte PLA
8:45-9:33 High-Speed PLA
9:33-10:31 “Flex PLA” PCL
10:31-11:18 PETG
11:18-11:50 Carbon Fiber PETG
11:50-12:41 PCTG
12:41-13:35 PET
13:35-14:05 CF PET
14:05-14:44 PVB
14:44-15:40 ABS
15:40-16:22 ASA
16:22-17:02 HIPS
17:02-18:16 PA-6 Nylon
18:16-18:50 PA-12 Nylon
18:50-19:32 CF Nylon
19:32-20:37 Glass-Filled Nylon
20:37-21:08 Nylon/PETG Alloys
21:08-21:53 Polycarbonate
21:53-22:35 PC Carbon Fiber
22:35-23:36 PMMA (acrylic)
23:36-24:15 PC-PBT
24:15-24:56 ??? A SECRET ???
24:56-27:00 TPU
27:00-27:26 TPE
27:26-28:17 SEBS
28:17-29:04 Polypropylene
29:04-29:43 GF-PP
29:43-30:16 OBC
30:16-30:58 HDPE
30:58-31:56 POM
31:56-33:06 PVDF
33:06-35:01 PEEK
35:01-35:38 PEKK
35:38-36:19 PPS
36:19-36:58 PSU
36:58-37:21 PES and PPSU
37:21-37:46 CF-PEEK
37:46-39:38 Ultem
39:38-40:39 TPI
40:39-44:33 Thanks!
Credits:
LEMONS?! - Will Sasso
Ocean cleanup footage - The Ocean Cleanup
Interference SFX - Partners in Rhyme
Other SFX - www.zapsplat.com
*Please don't actually do this - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
This episode is sponsored by Aura! Get 2 free weeks: aura.com/zackfreedman
Will you do a similar video on resins?
have you ever done SBS by fill X? or TPR?
Continuity error:
38:10 Ultem 9085 goes in F tier.
39:34 Ultem 9085 goes in A tier.
High speed PLA is bulshit I can print normal PLA at 500mms without any issues
Services like this can only stop companies from storing your information. Once it's sold. It's too late
glass-filled PP is a truly horrifying name
Nobody wants their pp filled with glass
I dunno, sounds good to me!
Darwin's warning label. Invisible and intangible.
No way lol @@moth.monster
do not search this i have seen a video dont look for it
*S Tier Filaments*
4:46 Carbon Fiber PLA
7:34 “Tough” (PBT) PLA
8:55 High-Speed PLA
11:18 Carbon Fiber PETG
11:50 PCTG _(close to perfect, top of s tier)_
19:32 Glass-Filled Nylon
25:35 TPU _(~99D)_
doin the lord's fuckin work over here.
which ones are spools of lung cancer?
@@batou1468F Tier
Thank you!
Where can you get 99D TPU?
Need this tier list as a webpage with mouseovers giving the filament name, pros, cons, and baseline print settings :D
Could also have *Polar Area Charts* with the various values.
@@ericlotze7724 why not both.
I threw the subtitles into GPT to extract the information and put it on a bery roigh tierlist website with details on hover
What homie said☝️👍
Including a list of available brands would be hand too, because some brands make their naming conventions confusing (tough pla vs "tough pla" for example
I think I’m going to do this. Tons of great info in the comments to be captured also
That tier platform is a genius idea, does it come in gridfinity?
@ZackFreedman
It should.
Was gonna say, I want to print a benchfinity
This.
…Also a Hextraction Tile where if you hit it it gifts you a cool benchy.
Chemist here to answer your chemistry questions:
Halogenated hydrocarbons are molecules made of carbon with attached hydrogens that have some atoms of a halogen (flourine, chlorine, bromine, or iodine) attached where a hydrogen normally would be. There's a lot of these, but some examples are chloroform and some other lab/industrial solvents (which would likely dissolve or attack other filaments), some pesticides, the molecule PTFE aka Teflon (funny enough, related to the filament at hand) and a lot of other things.
Inorganic acids are a lot simpler. They are simply the acids that are NOT made of carbon. Examples include hydrochloric acid, sulfiric acid and nitric acid. Common acids that do not fit in this group are acetic acid (vinegar) and citric acid.
Also, as a side note, please don't test this. Sticking random polymers in random acids is an easy way to get chemical (or physical!) burns or otherwise damage yourself or your property. Even if it says it is "resistant" or whatever, that doesnt mean it wont react, dissolve or produce toxic, explosive or dangerous compounds. Take it from me, a chemist who has made some dumb mistakes not realizing things reacted and blowing up glassware on accident. Not as fun as it sounds.
So… don’t use it for my 3d printed toddler bath toys and kitchenware?
Thanks mate very informative appreciate it
Up to the top of the comments you go, Mate
40:20 "30% too hot to bake cookies" is a really good way to put the crazy temperatures into perspective
Jokes on him, my cookies are Kapton Chunk
"30% too hot" is a terrible way to describe a temperature. Is it 30% hotter relative to absolute zero? Relative to 0C? Relative to 0F?
@@DanielLCarrierrelative to cookie baking temperature, you absolute dink. ~400F/200C.
Also it was a bit joke, don't take it so seriously lol
Too hot for cookies! Keep up!@@DanielLCarrier
@@DanielLCarrierseems pretty logical. 130% of typical cookie printing temperature
Obscure PETG advantage: it handles cryogenic temperature well. Now I understand most people don't have a need to store things in -80C, but PETG containers can. I have yet to test -150 and -196.
I've got access to liquid helium. - 269c. I'll float the idea.
Does PCTG handle that temp too?
@@goldgoat22float the benchie
This is actually really great to know, I routinely deal with both -80 and LN2 temperatures but haven't YET had a reason to 3D print anything for that use.
I don’t know if most Technical Data Sheets show it, but now i want CNC Kitchen Type Tests, but at various temperatures.
0c, 20c (or “close enough” room temp, just document it, and 100c *at minimum*
Whatever a Hot Car/Hot Day’s temp would be might be neat too, also like you said cryogen temperature *maybe*, but that is quite niche.
Along with Burn Tests though despite being niche can be useful!
I like to imagine that when your apartment flooded there were a hundred Benchies floating through the building like boats lost at sea.
When I flooded, my resin machine was on the floor with a completed benchy... covered in sewerage water :/
@@mattmckillop2280 The benchie yearns for the sea
One hidden gem about all acetone sensitive plastics, is spray paint for plastics basically welds to them. The main difference between normal spray paint and one that advertises use with plastic is the extra acetone in the mix. Most consumer products that people want to paint are just injection molded ABS.
"Prusha and BambuLabs the two genders" -- VoidStarLab Hahahahah I am stealing this!
Uhhm, what about Voron-Binary? xD
I personally like Creality-Sexual
We all try to forget about the Creality K1-courious gender...
Is Monoprice Ender3 clone a gender?
Does that mean my Qidi is the Q in LGBTQ? Though I guess that's a preference more than a gender.
PVDF is resistant to haloganated hydrocarbons because it is one itself, i.e. it's a fluoroganated hydrocarbon and fluoride make some of the strongest bonds in organic chemistry, which is why it's also resistant to inorganic acids, it simply just doesn't react with anything.
PVDF is also widely used in biology as it has several advantages over nitrocellulose when it comes to binding proteins. Very commonly used as a thin sheet for immunoblots.
@@madengineer9072 can you say more? I remember using pvdf membranes for running westerns many moons ago and I never dug into why it was so desirable
It does seem that the best chemical resistance comes from the nastiest chemicals.
@iankampine285 A couple of reasons actually. PVDF has better detection sensitivity, and better protein binding capacity, it is also in my experience much more durable than nitrocellulose when handling it so is easier to strip and reprobe a PVDF membrane. There are still reasons to use nitrocellulose at times of course (like if doing a Northern) but PVDF is a good all around material so is much more common in the lab these days. I've used both and the nitrocellulose was always in my opinion just more finicky and seemed to give a bit of an uglier blot. Also, as an aside nitrocellulose as you can imagine is flammable. Old lab trick was to light a small amount as it burns very very quick without any residue so looks like it just disappears in a flash.
@@conorstewart2214Makes sense though. It's like trying to burn ash. The nasty things have already attacked the material, and aren't going to just let go.
POM sticks very well to PLA so if you print the first layer in PLA it's actually somewhat printable
still a total pain in the ass though
As friendly as possible: Did you actually try this or did you read this info somewhere? I wish someone would print POM on rayon or cellophane. I'm fairly confident people would be happier.
@@3dPrintingMillennial I've printed with it a fair bit. It's really useful if you need low friction. But it warps a lot in my unheated bad enclosure.
Its really strong though and the layer adhesion is incredible.
I try tobavoid using it but if I have to, I do have the option.
@@folkevongen6442 have you tested out nylons instead? Also you can get low friction filament, Igus makes some which containers solid lubricant but you can also get PC-PTFE or PETG-PTFE as well, which is basically just the base filament with PTFE added which gives it a very low coefficient of friction and high wear resistance.
@@folkevongen6442 Curious what you make that has you needing to use POM sometimes
@@justtwoseats a filament spooler had a shaft that rubbed up against the frame causing the frame to get pretty warm and wearing down. Printing the bit of the shaft that rubbed in POM did the trick.
And an adapter for a drill to that same spooler kept breaking, POM worked well for that as well.
There are probably better options for what i need, POM just intrigued me.
Peek hoovers up water like a dam.
it was a comment on the recent lack of water in lake mead if I'm not mistaken
You could almost call it a Pier list
Awww yiss the filament series really soothes my autism.
The best days involve new Zack Freedman videos
This man has Single handelt helped me chill out and be exited after having 3 tests in 1 day. Legend. Subbed.
I'm annoyed about having iron filled composite in F-tier, if only because that particular blend is awesome for prototyping things that require magnetic properties, like brushless DC motor components and so on. For all the other metal-filled composites, I agree that painting will largely give the same effect, but when you don't have a CNC mill, and want a part with "some" of the properties of iron, then an iron composite filament absolutely serves a very legitimate purpose. Oh, and its surface finish is about on par with PLA-CF, just IMO.
The magnetic properties will be much lower than just using metal though.
What advantage do you have making your own brushless motor cores anyway? Just as an educational exercise it may be fine but it isn’t a great idea.
Also most things to do with iron and magnets or electricity get hot, PLA can only withstand 50-60 Celsius so it is a rubbish material for motors, electromagnets, transformers, etc, where you would normally just use steel.
@@conorstewart2214Of course it's for educational and prototyping purposes. I'm not suggesting usual those materials for production. That would be madness.
Given that many commonly available Neodymium start to lose their magnetism about 80C, then temperature control isn't something that can easily be fixed by simply using steel. One part of the prototyping aspect is ensuring that there's sufficient air-flow to keep it all cool. The 50-60C max operating temperature of PLA can actually serve as a handy canary in the mine in this instance. If it's starting to warp and deform then chances are there's something wrong with your design.
The point being is that there is a legitimate purpose. A good example of such on TH-cam would be this: th-cam.com/video/NFvMC3l3fGY/w-d-xo.html
Pretty niche case. Just order a 3d print or have an actual cast iron part done. Not as expensive as you might think.
You can try the metal filament from BASF, it is expensive but works really good and at the end you have stainless steel
Hell yeah! Thanks for taking the time to make this! Will be referencing this in the future
These tutorials on filament are so good. They are my go to in sharing with people who just start printing
Fun fact, the powersteering and waterpump pulleys on my car is injection molded PA-GF 30
Less fun fact: The desk chair I am using is from Ikea and made of injection molded PA-CF 30.
@@amicloud_ytfor real or no?
Guessing a joke, but also PA-CF 30 chair sounds neat?
Yes, glass fiber reinforced nylons are used all over the place in injection molded parts that require greater rigidity and strength than straight nylon. Plastic parts in power tools are frequently GF-nylon.
@@ericlotze7724 Nope, not a joke. I remember being very surprised when I saw the markings on the plastic!
Been following the series you did a great job explaining these for beginners and really helped with deciding which other filiments to try other than Pla and what you actually need your printer to be able to do in order to achieve this! Thanks taking the headaches away and cutting research times down substantially! I appreciate your work and look forward to your future videos 🤙
First video I’ve seen by this channel, I don’t know a thing about materials science or 3d printing but the HF rant and the dwarf fortress analogy easily earned a new subscriber!!
I always love your Filament videos. I didn't even know some of these existed. And while I don't see myself printing TPI ever in my entire lifetime, thanks!
I don't remotely know how to even begin 3D printing, but I've watched every single one of these filament videos so far because I love the way Zack presents everything
The edge case filaments are fun, but this is the first tier-ranking youtube video I've watched that's actually useful. Thanks Zack!
This was a blessing of a video because I'm trying to figure out which to buy for specific projects, and this helps me get a good idea of what works best for each operation.
Best tier list I've seen in a while. Great work as always!
Excited to see this!
A local manufacturer in South Africa has some really interesting filaments that I haven't seen or heard of anywhere else. Like SBS (Styrene-butadiene-styrene) which not hydroscopic, slightly flexible and slightly translucent that looks very nice when printed in vase mode. TPR(thermoplastic rubber) which also isn't hydroscopic with a shores hardness of 90. ABS-X, ABS but easier to print on an open printer ("all the benefits of ABS but without the hassles"). Lastly PLA Wayless which describes it's self, light weight PLA perfect for RC and drone parts.
Always enjoy your video!!
Could you have them email me? I’d love to try some of those on the next Every Filament episode.
@@ZackFreedman
I sent your message and deeds to the owner. I hope he reaches out to you!!
TPR is a tricky bugger but so worth it!
Hopefully you guys got in contact!
Fantastic episode with dense information and humor in equal quantities. Thanks!
DUDE!!! I was just looking for a video about this but your other one was 2 years old. Thanks for the update on all the filament. Keep making good videos man.
As a company that does filament sample boxes, this was an absolute amazing video!
And you're letting a TH-camr do your research?
@@orngjce223 not at all, I'm not using his video as research as I supply a variety of filaments so subscribers can test and come to their own conclusions. Just watched as a fan of his channel and thought he did an amazing job at informing the viewers about a vast variety of filament options there are.
@@orngjce223Who better to make a video like this if not an engineer who has personal experience with all these filaments?
Legit has like 2/3 of these filaments because of Maker Box ;)
I am home from school today because im feeling a bit under the weather, and this is the perfect pick-me-up i could get!!
I can also recommended cat videos, the kuffness in particular. And yes I'm here for the 3d purrrinting. :)
Hope you feel better!
@@StroalOutdoorsI am now!
I guess it was just a one day ailment or something!!
My favorite series. Thanks for all the hard work Zack.
Single best 3D printing video on YT right now. Brilliant, thank you.
The Polymaker PA6-CF is something special. Currently printing it using an off the shelf Ankermake M5C with zero issues. I did have to edit a few settings to help oozing, but it prints just as well as PLA now.
I’ve been binging this whole TH-cam channel over the last couple days. It’s so wildly good lol
Wow. What a great upload! Excellent information and very much needed. Thanks!!
Gonna have to hard disagree on the metal bearing filaments. They can be a pain in the ass, and yes, you can electroplate, but when trying to make either cosplay items or artifacts/props from video games and movies the ability to rust/patina them and to sand them to a very metal appearance, it's straight up far far better than electroplating. With electroplating you can get nice shiny metal finishes, but these filaments absolutely slay if you want aged and weathered metallic finishes.
His tier list encompasses all the use cases possible not just your one specific hyper niche use case
@rodiculous9464 I'll note that the rubric included what uses cases the filament enables, and cosplay / props isn't a small niche
Gonna have to note that there are multiple million+ subscriber youtube channels dedicated to these activities.
Leaving a comment about PVDF as a chemist - indeed it's indestructible! It can withstand paint stripper (halogenated organic solvent) and concentrated battery acid (inorganic acid)! Warps like hell, has poor bed adhesion (I was only able to print it with Vision Miner's Nano Polymer Adhesive on the print bed), but if you find a way around warping - it's actually quite pleasant to print
I was able to print it on G10 (Garolite), with the bed about 105C.
A second choice is to print it on PVA. One easy technique is to model a sheet of PVA that it one layer thick. Place your part on top of that. You basically print one time use build surfaces.
I use upgraded 3ntr printers and have a dual extruder capable setup.
I've also sent this message to two other people in this comment section here, but I have a question about this and Zack's statement that it becomes deadly just a few degrees above the print temp.
I have some old injection molded parts I am in the process of replacing with printed parts that need to survive for years being exposed to chlorine gas. I'm an industrial design engineer and I did a minor in polymers and associated production processes, so I understood the potential risks of PVDF well enough when it came through my materials research as one of the only two viable options along with PPS that can be done in FDM and meets the chemical requirements.
However, from my understanding is that degradation and thus the extremely toxic byproducts like hydrogen fluoride, whilst extremely toxic, are actually very unlikely to occur since thanks to its fluor bonds being so strong - taking a lot of energy to break- it has a huge safety delta between the processing (~250°C) and degradation (~400°C) temperatures. Much higher than a lot of common polymers which seem to have around a 50-80 degree safety margin and obviously much much higher than it's chemical cousin PVC since its delta is actually negative.
This does not gel with what Zack is saying here, where he talks about even a few degrees causing the release of dangerous amounts of toxic chemicals. I would really like to understand this well, since this is a potentially dangerous situation I would like to avoid. I know that degradation doesn't happen at a set temperature, because of polydispersity shorter chains will degrade sooner, but I cannot imagine that to be such a factor that a few degrees above processing temps it is suddenly deadly.
Do you have any insight on this?
@@martvansteenbergen8955 just heating up this polymer to melting won't cause any problems, as you said, it's very stable up until very high temp with significant margin. But if you overheat it beyond decomposition temperature, that's where it becomes dangerous. PVDF decomposes into reactive and toxic fluorinated gases, including HF, and those are very bad for you. So the point is - don't let it drip into heating element where it could overheat and cake up.
Side note - these ptoxic products of decomposition are similar to ones of PTFE (Teflon), and are especially toxic to birds. To the point that if you have non-stick cookware and have a parrot for example, the bird's life expectancy is halved
Oh my gosh this must have taken so long to make, thank you for taking the time. D:
Yo, this is my new reference to all things filament! Thanks for your hard work in presenting this!
I've been printing with Polymaker PC 3kg spools on my Bambu Labs X1. It's been awesome. I live in Florida and moisture hasn't been an issue. I've Made lamp shades and aquaponics towers with it. It's become my favorite filament
I am also in florida and have an X1C coming on monday. Wooo
We've had some Ultem 1010 parts made for my work. They're going to be in some spicy conditions so I hope it works as well as you expect!
I just wanna say that I love your Thanks! (end credits). Please never stop doing that.
Absolutely love this vid! Thank you crazy zack sir!
The SainSmart TPU in description is 95A, not 99D. I don't think there are 99D TPU filaments available.
was looking for that 99d tpu too. wonder if it's rigid enough for drone frames.
@@iiianydayiii Armadillo TPU from NINJATECH is 75D and pretty much up there in the hardness scale
@@antoinepapillon481 thanks Antoine
FWIW I have printed a fair amount of straight-up PP on my X1C - it's really easy to get bed adhesion: clear packing tape is PP, so just put strips of packing tape on your bed and you're off to the races. You'll want to have an enclosed printer to avoid warping. Print with minimal cooling (read 'print it slow ') to get the best looking prints. Major plus points for PP: complete layer adhesion PLUS food-grade (use a Stainless nozzle for only PP to avoid contamination) make it very useful for anything food-grade and industry.
The material itself may be food grade but that doesn’t mean the printed part is.
PP is a great material if you can get it to work, it is very durable.
Love these!! Thanks for all the great knowledge!
Yes! Finally PCTG gets the recognition it deserves! I stumbled across it while looking for something that improves upon PETG, but it is truly shocking just how much better it is. I really think it has the potential to replace PLA in the near future.
It won’t come close to replacing PLA until the cost comes down significantly.
Dude, you drove my dog off the couch. I'm amused, entertained and informed. thanks.
PVDF would be an awesome thing to print because in applications where hydrofluoric acid(HF) is used to etch the surface of titanium, racks made of this stuff are what you set up the pieces on. In designing those, you have to make absolutely sure there are no flat spots or cavities for acid to pool or gather
You can but PP can do that as well and is cheaper. PP glue stick, 100% infill and a 20 mm brim will get you most of the way. If you need support try and do it only on flat surfaces where you can get a knife in between. Also print support with a 250-300% offset from the printed object. This has worked for me at least.
These videos compete for my favorite 3D printing videos ever. If you came up with 10 hours of content on this I could probably nerd out to it all in one sitting if I had the time. Thanks for another great one.
Zach I've been waiting for months my dude thank you
While it's awful for printing, HDPE is *fantastic* for milling. It cuts like butter.
It's funny that he mentioned Delrin immediately after HDPE and mentioned that it's great for milling. Which is also true!
Turned some endcaps out of 6" diameter HDPE cylinders, the smooth ribbons that came off were a sight to behold.
@@defenestrated23 Ooo, I've never turned it, so I've yet to experience such beauty. Turning aluminum with nice sharp tools has produced ribbony chips for me, but they were somewhat worrying due to concerns about overheating.
TPU is all that you say it is….minus the shatterproof bit, at least at sub zero temperatures
Once frozen, breaks like glass
So there’s a temperature for this amorphous material, below which it transitions into a glass… interesting
But really, that’s a fantastic starting point for learning about the thermal properties of these materials. And being “thermoplastics”, it’s kind of an important part
Wow! What a filament review.
Zack, you're the best.
WHAT. A. VIDEO. You bring it, as always Zack. Thank you so much.
Matte PLA from Bambu Lab is PLA + Calcium carbonate, which is interesting.
My Secret favourite is CPE-HT, prints super well, does basically need no cooling even when printing at 60mm/s³ flowrate. Its not Rigid like PLA, but can take a beating and doesnt get soft below 100C. Its food save and dishwasher save. But its fairly expensive at around 60€ per spool.
I know this is focused on 3D printing but the general details about each material and their other uses is fantastic. Keep it up!
Amazing video! I definitely need to go back and watch it again while taking notes of the next filaments to try out. Thanks for all the leg work!
I really hope you enjoy making these filament videos, because I love them a LOT.
I will say, ASA prints like a dream for me, at least the brands I've tried. Same with PC, but I've only used Polymaker, but I only use it for very specific parts....
Certainly underselling ABS and ASA a bit I feel
If you have an enclosure the two problems mentioned basically go away and it kinda seems like a better default than PLA for most things because you can print faster
@@hrmny_ True. Although, I do suppose they release some pretty nasty fumes and particulates. But for functional and durable parts, ASA has become my new favorite by a long way.
Polymaker PC often has lower properties than most other PC filament, especially the poly lite stuff, it is designed to be easy to print, not to have good mechanical properties.
@@conorstewart2214 True. I use both the Polylite and PolyMax PC for different applications depending on the properties needed.
That said, they still have great mechanical properties FAR beyond anything else I print with. Which is shown in testing across other channels.
Informative and funny.
I'd like to see the filaments split in cost columns so we mere mortals can see what is affordable.
Zack out here extruding that quality content. super useful
I've been watching your content for years, and this is the first time i've ever actually seen where you've hidden patron names 😂
For the life of me I cant find the 99D TPU, am I going crazy?
So there are a few different measuring scales when classifying how compressible something is...
I think 99D is roughly equivalent to 95A.
Thus video goes over it in good detail:
th-cam.com/video/3VulaksxOio/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mK9xPP82q_x8Yqmk
Where did you get the 99D TPU? I’ve been searching for this for quite a while!
Edit, the link in the details is for 95A TPU. I already have that.
Right? I want it so bad to try in the AMD where they explicitly say not to use it.
Liked before even finishing. Rolling around at the speed of sound... YES!!!
Thank you so much for making this video, I’ve been struggling a little when it comes to doing maker stuff, and 3D printing, and this will help me a lot when thinking about my projects in the future. The only help I still need is dialing in my 3d printer to print better and more consistently
I'm waiting for the psu nozzle video
I can't seem to find 99D TPU. The link in the description links to 95A.
95A is fine in my experience, its a little flexible, but will be just a strong. Basically indestructible, and for all intents and purposes rigid, at least if printed with high (or 100%) infill.
Armadillo from Ninjatek is 75D, but is way more expensive (100$/kg)
I just want to say as someone who's new to printing i love these videos. I watched the other ones probably like 5x each when deciding which printer to get and now every time i have an idea and dont know which filament to use i go watch it again
The amount of effort and information on this video makes it so I have to give it a like and subscribe. I always appreciate a good video no matter the subject. Well done!
Just a suggestion for longer videos like this. Add text overlay when talking about specific thing so I don't have to go back if I didn't catch what type of filament you are talking about.
abs warps more than star trek.
love your Aura ad read. I've never heard such a full-throated personal endorsement of a sponsor that aligns with your values
Great video! So many cool filaments I need to try!
LETTTTS *static sound* GOOO!!!
Why do all your benchies look so bad? I don't think I could print a PETG benchy with such bad overhangs, and I use an Ender 3!
Are you printing using dozens of different filament types in a short period of time?
@@pickyyeeter no, but I'd imagine printing a Benchy with PETG or PLA is not beyond his capability.
@@MarkusNemesis I think you might have missed the point of what I was saying. It's not that he's not capable of doing it; it's that printing using all of these different filaments which each require different settings, in a short amount of time, doesn't allow for perfecting the settings on any given filament. You and I have the benefit of time when making our benchies. If it doesn't come out right, we can tweak the settings until it does.
Working on multiple projects under a time crunch can be an exercise in compromise - you can do them on time or you can do them near perfectly, but usually you can't do both. Often the end result falls somewhere in the middle of the two.
@@pickyyeeter I do not believe I did. He's not started 3d printing yesterday. He'd have profiles for PETG, PLA, and his daily driver filaments already tuned. So unless he was smashing benchies out at excess speed to shave off 2 minutes a print, when part of the point of this video is to critique how well these materials print, doesn't make sense to me.
I would understand the niche filaments looking wonky, but the basics with stringy spaghetti overhangs and poor exterior wall finishes just doesn't make sense.
I can only imagine he printed everything from the one printer for consistency, and this chosen printer simply cannot print well. It's even possible that the chamber was heated for every print, thus why it had such poor cooling on the lower temperature filaments.
I can theorise until the cows come home, but the only person who can explain the quality of the prints is Zack himself.
Nice work Zack and very interesting.
THE most universally-useful 3D printing vid on the ‘tubes yet!
I can’t imagine the utterly _insane_ amount of toil and pain this represents, thanks!
GIRL WHY DID YOU NEED TO CENSOR "BISEXUAL" LMAOOOOOO
Damn that's impressive roundup, Even as a viewer there's so much knowledge here to decompress, I would love to see a decision tree of filaments depending of use cases, like if my project was for a kids food plate, I could quickly look up food safe, slightly flexable, durable, easy printable material. etc. Great work Zack, keep doin what you're doin bro.
Finally, a non-biased and honest overview and ranking of printing filaments video thanks Zack
I simply can not get enough of your narrative, I think is the best part of your content.
Really nice. Thanks for your efford ❤
thanks for this awesome and informative video. Really liked the physical rating table
Yay! New vid!
I was expecting this to be a tier list of brands but instead it's materials! Expect this to be a high quality reference video for years to come. An expert succinctly summarizing scores of spools' strengths and weaknesses.
Really enjoy your filament videos.
I absolutely love your filament videos please keep them going
Thanks for this video. Would like to see updates to it as more and new filaments get made. Thanks again, I learned a lot from this video.
THANK YOU!! This video taught me a lot.
I definitely took a few notes from this video for my own printing purposes when I unpack my printer in a proper private place for printing.
hell yes, a long form void star filament episode!
What a great video. So much information! Thank you very much
99% of everything I print is PETG. It's a bit slower, but I have consistently gotten killer results and the resulting products are strong and with enough flex that they can handle a lot of real life. Doesn't deform, handles higher temps. It's just a great allrounder. I'll have to check out some PCTG, though!