These little pearls of wisdom are such a treasure to us newbies. I used tree support for the first time today, after watching your video. I'm used to using normal support and lowering the interface density down to 5% or even less. Those tree supports aren't going to eliminate the traditional way, but it's another nice tool at our disposal.
If you like the Tree supports, then you'll love this. Cura is currently working on what they are calling Christmas Tree supports. It uses less filament, reduces time even more and will be even easier to remove. The Christmas Tree supports are still in the Alpha stages of development but I'm looking forward to trying them! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
I have to go into the settings and check the boxes for these options to appear? I see many options in the settings, but I'm not sure what any of them do and don't want to ruin my settings, because I've been printing mostly good parts since I built it. The only problem I'm having with Cura is the overhang interface support layers fused to any areas of flat over-hangs. The bottom layer (outer-most on the part) is a very coarse diamond pattern that is hard to remove without causing damage to the part... and then the next deeper layer will either be parallel lines all touching or will be random looking and is impossible to remove without causing damage. Sometimes there will be a couple that I can get a finger nail under and separate a fair length, but for the most part they're just fused too well. Forgive the rant. It's just bad enough to ruin some parts that require accuracy (and I know that the printer is capable if it's set up right). It's weird, because the tree supports will be easy to remove from the part like always, but the top layer of supports/interface is fused to the part and not the trees... so I'm not really sure how that can happen.
When I come back to 3d printing I need to make sure to come back to you channel. I hope the algorithm looks favorably on you and gets you the recognition you deserve.
Great video, and very timely for me. I’m pretty new to 3D printing and I just finished a 20+ hour print this morning with a lot of supports. I really struggled to remove them, and was thinking that there must be a better way to do this. A couple of hours later your video popped up in my feed. Thank you!
Thank you so very much. These support settings have been driving me crazy, and I'm so thankful you took the time to experiment and show us the differences the settings make. Cheers.
Thanks for watching! Last week I posted a video on using support blockers to remove support from areas where they aren't needed. It can help reduce even more time and eliminate support where they aren't needed. Thanks for watching! I appreciate it!
Great video. Good to see you showing the deburring tool. It was a game changer for me when I discovered it years ago when I first started printing. I’ve actually never changed the blade. It got better for this task as it dulled a little over time.
After finishing the your clip iam happy to see you didn't hurt 🤕 Also a newbie in this hobby so i am glad to see you explain tis. Can you also share your new settings as a picture or a list so i can use them to .🤗
This is really helpful! The issue I have is when I pull the supports off there is a support pattern that is still stuck to the print that is very hard to remove. It also hides a lot of detail if I am able to remove it. I guess I just need to keep playing with the settings.
@@andrewmcmahon8220 I did. It came down to changing a few settings. It looked like my issue was caused by over-extrusion. I traced a few failed prints back to improper leveling... I calibrated my rig using a calibration cube. I made sure to only change one setting at a time and then reprinted the cubes. It takes time but you nail it down to what the issue was. If you change too many things at once then you don't know which change fixed the printing process. I also decreased the flow rate. This seemed to be the overlying issue. However, changing from PETG to PLA caused me to change this parameter too. I just stick with one filament type for an entire project now. I also decrease the distance between the printing part and the support structure. This showed immediate results. The part that connected the supports to the print peeled right off. I hope this helps!
This was very helpful however I do find it odd that so many people seem to be overly focused on print times but ignore how much filament will be used. I'm fairly new to 3D printing and I'm kind of cheap so I look to reduce my costs where I can. Not only can these settings help speed up the prints but they can also use less materials. I've found many times support use can increase filament usage by more than 50%. That's not insignificant. But I was glad to see that I have been messing around with the same support settings you showed here. That tells me I am on the right track. :)
@@OmarGarcia1 If electricity costs were a factor I would be seeking ways to turn this into an income generation rather than a hobby. I'll wind up spending far more on filament through test prints and failed prints than electricity and this is one of the reasons why I find it so odd that these things seem to be ignored. It's the "microwave mentality" where everyone seems to be unable or incapable of just waiting a little longer.
I've been printing for years and at this point I don't care how long a print takes... unless you are waiting at the printer to remove the finished product when its finished then what does faster print times get you? Often lower quality and or failures. I usually am asleep or outside when the prints finish so if it sits on the build plate for 3 hours waiting for me to get it then there was no point to going faster. Also I'd rather pay a few extra cents in filament then to struggle with hard to remove supports and possibly break the model. That's why I recommend a 100% support interface density roof at 1mm thick using concentric pattern. Supports themselves I use tree triangle pattern and at least 20% density; much higher if TPU or smaller details to support.. my prints aren't fast but they come out good and usually on first try..
Looks great, I'll have to try this. What about tree supports? Tree supports are easier to remove except for the rough surface between the support and the model. It takes a lot of effort to get that off.
Thank you so much! I'm a newbie and I was really struggling with the supports. Your video was very informative and helpful. Your camera angles are great, I was able to see everything clearly. I'm looking forward to watching the rest of your videos.
Great video, thank you. I'm curious, and maybe it was to demonstrate on a big overhand, but on your first model why didn't you just invert the model so the greatest overhangs are mitigated? I really like the way you go into the slicer previews to explain solutions.
I agree, same with the second model. I mention somewhere around the 4:30 mark in the video about flipping it over if it was a "real print". Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment!
Very good information, thank you. I have problems with supports that are way to hard to get off so I'll experiment with these. I thought you were going to stick yourself with that hobby knife, I would have stuck myself!! Thank you for your videos.
Saw the "x" support interface and smirked a bit. - Support pattern: Zig Zag -Support Wall Line Count: 1 - makes it easy to grab with needle nose pliers and remove. - Density: 15% -Support interfaces: OFF Comes off nice and easy for me with little effort. If I'm doing a print that I know is going to take 12 hours, I'm not gonna notice or care much about time save. Especially when I'm printing while at work.
I use a small electrical screwdriver rather than knife to prise between the model and support. It is less damaging to the model and fingers if you slip.
Another option i use on differant software is the air gap. Meaning the distance from the support to where it touches the model Higher the airgap the further away. Can this be done in curu to Just to say i love watching all your informative videos. as they make sense .
Cura 5.1 made tree supports much better. The normal supports were always bad and custom supports were a necessity. Only problem i have had recently is that sometimes the tree support will come loose from the bed and cause a print fail.
I've found if you put a brim set on everywhere in bed adhesion it can stop it from coming off the print bed more. Doesn't work 100% of the time but significantly reduces failure rate. Since the brim is only like 1-2 layers think it'seasy to break off and clean up compared to having to use line prints or something.
Thanks for this. One place I have issues with supports is where the overhang has very small clearance. I have been trying to get a clean print of a model that has about 3mm between the overhang and the bed, with the overhang being flat, about 10mm long, and supported on one side. Pretty much worst-case, right?
When faced with printing this sort of model (your first one), I would have rotated it 180 deg so "what you call model base" is on top. Much less model to support. But I understand the point you are trying to make.
The mic sounds a bit off, like you have two mics interfering with each other. Good video though. I love the new tree supports, but need to be careful they don't go everywhere internally, if you have a complicated model that is.
I just had to deal with the exact problem at the end of a 4 day print, raft wouldn't come off and supports broke most of the parts that I did manage to get off the raft relatively cleanly as I tried to take them off. I ended up tossing the project and starting over, scraping off remnants of the raft stuck to the underside of the parts and then scraping/sanding leftover bits of support is not going to work on something small and fiddly.
Every single thing I print in Cura with tree supports leaves two unremoveable layers from and parts that have a flat over-hang or close to it. One layer will be a separated criss-cross layer (on the outside) that is very hard to remove and then inside of that will either be parallel layer of all touching lines or a mangles mess of strings that are hard to impossible to remove without damaging the part. I'm not sure what's causing this and couldn't find anyone else with the same problem that's figured out how to fix it. The tree supports remove verily easily, but the top layer fo the tree supports appear to get stuck to the part. This is confirmed by measurements also. (If I have a very large over-hang that has parts below it that the tree supports sit on, then this bad layer will not exist and the supports will come out of the part just fine without leaving these unremovable layers stuck to the part. If anyone has an idea on what causes it or how to fix it, I would really appreciate it. Even guesses are welcome.
Have a question? I have my z supports where I wanted them. My problem seems to be more of the X/Y issue. My supports layup against the model and seem to get fused, what's the best way to fix that?
Anyone got the same issues with concentric support being empty? I used the latest version of cura, which I believe is 5.2.2 and if I choose concentric support, it will always be empty where there should be support infills.
I noticed that when testing for this video for the support structure. At first I thought I found a way to cut more time off while using supports until I noticed it was empty inside. That's why I opted for lines. It did function as expected for the support interface.
The tools were all part of a kit I got from Amazon a few years ago. It's no longer available but this one is very similar to it. Hope it helps! www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Finishing-Printing-Accessories-Prints/dp/B099K47RCY/ref=sr_1_8?crid=315ZLE0PK50HJ&keywords=3d+printing+kit&qid=1675721428&s=industrial&sprefix=3d+printing+kit%2Cindustrial%2C116&sr=1-8
I'm not 100% sure of your question. Do you mean avoid putting support in certain areas? That would be with support blockers. Or is there an area than needs support removed that's hard to get to? That would be a tough one to answer without seeing the model.
You should have pointed out the OBVIOUS for the newbies that might see this video. In the second one if you had flipped the object 180 degrese you would have not needed any supports and actually in the first one if you flipped 180 degrees you would have needed less support too because the base was quite smaller than the upper part. I know the purpose of the object printed the way you did was to show the difference in support but for newbies to remember them the option to flip or search for better angles to position the object it is important.
If you just bought your printer last week, what exactly did you expect to learn from this video? There are other things to learn first, like dialing in your printer and material. I'm not sure what you expected.
These little pearls of wisdom are such a treasure to us newbies. I used tree support for the first time today, after watching your video. I'm used to using normal support and lowering the interface density down to 5% or even less. Those tree supports aren't going to eliminate the traditional way, but it's another nice tool at our disposal.
If you like the Tree supports, then you'll love this. Cura is currently working on what they are calling Christmas Tree supports. It uses less filament, reduces time even more and will be even easier to remove. The Christmas Tree supports are still in the Alpha stages of development but I'm looking forward to trying them! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
I have to go into the settings and check the boxes for these options to appear? I see many options in the settings, but I'm not sure what any of them do and don't want to ruin my settings, because I've been printing mostly good parts since I built it. The only problem I'm having with Cura is the overhang interface support layers fused to any areas of flat over-hangs. The bottom layer (outer-most on the part) is a very coarse diamond pattern that is hard to remove without causing damage to the part... and then the next deeper layer will either be parallel lines all touching or will be random looking and is impossible to remove without causing damage. Sometimes there will be a couple that I can get a finger nail under and separate a fair length, but for the most part they're just fused too well. Forgive the rant. It's just bad enough to ruin some parts that require accuracy (and I know that the printer is capable if it's set up right). It's weird, because the tree supports will be easy to remove from the part like always, but the top layer of supports/interface is fused to the part and not the trees... so I'm not really sure how that can happen.
When I come back to 3d printing I need to make sure to come back to you channel. I hope the algorithm looks favorably on you and gets you the recognition you deserve.
Thank you very much! I appreciate the kind words and hope you come back to 3D printing! Thanks for watching!
I’m really glad I found your channel. You’re doing a real service to the community.
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate reading that type of comment! Thanks for watching!!!!
Great video, and very timely for me. I’m pretty new to 3D printing and I just finished a 20+ hour print this morning with a lot of supports. I really struggled to remove them, and was thinking that there must be a better way to do this. A couple of hours later your video popped up in my feed. Thank you!
Thank you so very much. These support settings have been driving me crazy, and I'm so thankful you took the time to experiment and show us the differences the settings make. Cheers.
Thanks for helping make the understanding of supports easier. I have been testing them for months and they are a pain.
Thanks for watching! Last week I posted a video on using support blockers to remove support from areas where they aren't needed. It can help reduce even more time and eliminate support where they aren't needed. Thanks for watching! I appreciate it!
Using your tips, I changed a 12 hour print to less than 8! Good info!!!
That’s great! Glad the info was useful for you. Thanks for the comment & thanks for watching!
Great video. Good to see you showing the deburring tool. It was a game changer for me when I discovered it years ago when I first started printing. I’ve actually never changed the blade. It got better for this task as it dulled a little over time.
I’m past due on changing my blade too! Thanks for watching!
solid video with no bull or fluff to pad video length. good tips for all levels of experience
After finishing the your clip iam happy to see you didn't hurt 🤕
Also a newbie in this hobby so i am glad to see you explain tis.
Can you also share your new settings as a picture or a list so i can use them to .🤗
This is really helpful! The issue I have is when I pull the supports off there is a support pattern that is still stuck to the print that is very hard to remove. It also hides a lot of detail if I am able to remove it. I guess I just need to keep playing with the settings.
Did you figure this out? I'm having the same issue at the moment
@@andrewmcmahon8220 I did. It came down to changing a few settings. It looked like my issue was caused by over-extrusion. I traced a few failed prints back to improper leveling...
I calibrated my rig using a calibration cube. I made sure to only change one setting at a time and then reprinted the cubes. It takes time but you nail it down to what the issue was. If you change too many things at once then you don't know which change fixed the printing process.
I also decreased the flow rate. This seemed to be the overlying issue. However, changing from PETG to PLA caused me to change this parameter too. I just stick with one filament type for an entire project now.
I also decrease the distance between the printing part and the support structure. This showed immediate results. The part that connected the supports to the print peeled right off. I hope this helps!
Wow that made a huge difference in support removal, definitely going to keep this in mind!
This was very helpful however I do find it odd that so many people seem to be overly focused on print times but ignore how much filament will be used. I'm fairly new to 3D printing and I'm kind of cheap so I look to reduce my costs where I can. Not only can these settings help speed up the prints but they can also use less materials. I've found many times support use can increase filament usage by more than 50%. That's not insignificant. But I was glad to see that I have been messing around with the same support settings you showed here. That tells me I am on the right track. :)
you do realize unless you somehow are getting free electricity, longer prints means your electric bill is higher.
@@OmarGarcia1 If electricity costs were a factor I would be seeking ways to turn this into an income generation rather than a hobby. I'll wind up spending far more on filament through test prints and failed prints than electricity and this is one of the reasons why I find it so odd that these things seem to be ignored. It's the "microwave mentality" where everyone seems to be unable or incapable of just waiting a little longer.
I've been printing for years and at this point I don't care how long a print takes... unless you are waiting at the printer to remove the finished product when its finished then what does faster print times get you? Often lower quality and or failures. I usually am asleep or outside when the prints finish so if it sits on the build plate for 3 hours waiting for me to get it then there was no point to going faster. Also I'd rather pay a few extra cents in filament then to struggle with hard to remove supports and possibly break the model. That's why I recommend a 100% support interface density roof at 1mm thick using concentric pattern. Supports themselves I use tree triangle pattern and at least 20% density; much higher if TPU or smaller details to support.. my prints aren't fast but they come out good and usually on first try..
Looks great, I'll have to try this. What about tree supports? Tree supports are easier to remove except for the rough surface between the support and the model. It takes a lot of effort to get that off.
Great channel man. Finally somebody that just gets to the point and doesn't mess around. Got a sub from Party of Two!
Thanks for the sub but more importantly, thanks for the kind words! I really appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much! I'm a newbie and I was really struggling with the supports. Your video was very informative and helpful. Your camera angles are great, I was able to see everything clearly. I'm looking forward to watching the rest of your videos.
Thanks for those kind words and thanks for watching!!!! Keep on printing!!!
Great video, thank you. I'm curious, and maybe it was to demonstrate on a big overhand, but on your first model why didn't you just invert the model so the greatest overhangs are mitigated? I really like the way you go into the slicer previews to explain solutions.
I agree, same with the second model. I mention somewhere around the 4:30 mark in the video about flipping it over if it was a "real print". Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment!
Very good information, thank you. I have problems with supports that are way to hard to get off so I'll experiment with these. I thought you were going to stick yourself with that hobby knife, I would have stuck myself!! Thank you for your videos.
Thanks for the kind words! I thought I was going to stick myself too! That’s where the quick “be careful not to cut yourself!” came from!
Saw the "x" support interface and smirked a bit.
- Support pattern: Zig Zag
-Support Wall Line Count: 1 - makes it easy to grab with needle nose pliers and remove.
- Density: 15%
-Support interfaces: OFF
Comes off nice and easy for me with little effort. If I'm doing a print that I know is going to take 12 hours, I'm not gonna notice or care much about time save. Especially when I'm printing while at work.
Thanks for the help, I now have a better understanding of "support Settings". It was a great video and easily understand.
Thanks for those kinds words and thanks for watching!
I use a small electrical screwdriver rather than knife to prise between the model and support. It is less damaging to the model and fingers if you slip.
Another option i use on differant software is the air gap. Meaning the distance from the support to where it touches the model
Higher the airgap the further away.
Can this be done in curu to
Just to say i love watching all your informative videos. as they make sense .
It sounds much like Cura's Z distance. It's the distance from the top of the support to the underside of the print.
Cura 5.1 made tree supports much better. The normal supports were always bad and custom supports were a necessity.
Only problem i have had recently is that sometimes the tree support will come loose from the bed and cause a print fail.
I've found if you put a brim set on everywhere in bed adhesion it can stop it from coming off the print bed more. Doesn't work 100% of the time but significantly reduces failure rate. Since the brim is only like 1-2 layers think it'seasy to break off and clean up compared to having to use line prints or something.
I just wanted to thank you for this video. Saved me a bunch of time, and was quite effective on using Tree. Appreciate it.
Another great video that helped me yesterday night ! Thumbs up !
Awesome! Glad to hear it! Keep on printing!
Have you examined all of the Support Settings in Cura 5.4? Seems like there are a LOT more settings available now. Thank you.
Not all of them, not yet! But it's on my to do list, especially the updated tree supports! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!!
I use tree supports for almost everything.
I’m surprised you didn’t mention lowering the z height for the support surface touching the model. That makes it much easier to remove most supports.
Thanks for this.
One place I have issues with supports is where the overhang has very small clearance. I have been trying to get a clean print of a model that has about 3mm between the overhang and the bed, with the overhang being flat, about 10mm long, and supported on one side. Pretty much worst-case, right?
When faced with printing this sort of model (your first one), I would have rotated it 180 deg so "what you call model base" is on top. Much less model to support. But I understand the point you are trying to make.
Ok captain obvious.
@@learnthrivecompassion422 You're welcome, noobie .......
The mic sounds a bit off, like you have two mics interfering with each other. Good video though. I love the new tree supports, but need to be careful they don't go everywhere internally, if you have a complicated model that is.
I just had to deal with the exact problem at the end of a 4 day print, raft wouldn't come off and supports broke most of the parts that I did manage to get off the raft relatively cleanly as I tried to take them off. I ended up tossing the project and starting over, scraping off remnants of the raft stuck to the underside of the parts and then scraping/sanding leftover bits of support is not going to work on something small and fiddly.
Bummer, nothing worse than a ruined print because of supports of a raft!
I need you to be the voice of the Colonel in Metal Gear :D
Lol, I'll get better at it! Thanks for watching!
Good video, excellent content, but you need more lighting to show the surface details
Thanks sir
Thanks for watching!
Very good information. Thanks
Thank you for your time and dedication, Great Video!
I'm surprised you didn't show the new slim tree supports!
AWESOME VIDEO!!! thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and wisdom.... you ROCK!!!
hello, i want to print a U-tube, but i do not want supports inside the tube because it will be difficult to do so, how do I do that?
Great tips. Thanks.
Every single thing I print in Cura with tree supports leaves two unremoveable layers from and parts that have a flat over-hang or close to it. One layer will be a separated criss-cross layer (on the outside) that is very hard to remove and then inside of that will either be parallel layer of all touching lines or a mangles mess of strings that are hard to impossible to remove without damaging the part. I'm not sure what's causing this and couldn't find anyone else with the same problem that's figured out how to fix it. The tree supports remove verily easily, but the top layer fo the tree supports appear to get stuck to the part. This is confirmed by measurements also. (If I have a very large over-hang that has parts below it that the tree supports sit on, then this bad layer will not exist and the supports will come out of the part just fine without leaving these unremovable layers stuck to the part. If anyone has an idea on what causes it or how to fix it, I would really appreciate it. Even guesses are welcome.
Have a question? I have my z supports where I wanted them. My problem seems to be more of the X/Y issue. My supports layup against the model and seem to get fused, what's the best way to fix that?
Nice. Clean. Thank you!
Very helpful.
Great video!! 👏👏👏
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching! I hope it helps.
Anyone got the same issues with concentric support being empty? I used the latest version of cura, which I believe is 5.2.2 and if I choose concentric support, it will always be empty where there should be support infills.
I noticed that when testing for this video for the support structure. At first I thought I found a way to cut more time off while using supports until I noticed it was empty inside. That's why I opted for lines. It did function as expected for the support interface.
@@pushingplastic7445 I had this issue for at least 2 monthes now. I think I will raise a ticket to the development team.
Can you add some links to the files and deburring tools you used?
The tools were all part of a kit I got from Amazon a few years ago. It's no longer available but this one is very similar to it. Hope it helps! www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Finishing-Printing-Accessories-Prints/dp/B099K47RCY/ref=sr_1_8?crid=315ZLE0PK50HJ&keywords=3d+printing+kit&qid=1675721428&s=industrial&sprefix=3d+printing+kit%2Cindustrial%2C116&sr=1-8
@@pushingplastic7445 I appreciate the recommendation! I hope it's an Amazon affiliate link so you can get a commission.
@@kirkpatrickwindowcleaning That would be nice, but I haven't set anything like that up!
yeah, I preach to all the newbie xmas crowd to adjust density to 5-7%
How do i remove supports just in specific places? I have one that always ruins the print but don't want to remove everything.
I'm not 100% sure of your question. Do you mean avoid putting support in certain areas? That would be with support blockers. Or is there an area than needs support removed that's hard to get to? That would be a tough one to answer without seeing the model.
@@pushingplastic7445 Thanks for answering even on an old video, already solved it whit support blockers. Very useful info.
TOP !!!!
You should have pointed out the OBVIOUS for the newbies that might see this video. In the second one if you had flipped the object 180 degrese you would have not needed any supports and actually in the first one if you flipped 180 degrees you would have needed less support too because the base was quite smaller than the upper part. I know the purpose of the object printed the way you did was to show the difference in support but for newbies to remember them the option to flip or search for better angles to position the object it is important.
It was pointed out at the 7:48 mark of the video for the obvious reasons! Thanks for watching!
@@pushingplastic7445 LOL missed that bit. Awesome. Great video. keep up the good work.
@@TheStickyBusiness Thanks for watching, I really do appreciate it. And keep those comments coming!
Thanks for this because he did say it in video but I haven’t done it before so I had no idea how to do it 😂
"Now, first thing's first... supports are a pain in the ass!"
You aren't lying! I'm fighting supports right now on the X1 Carbon, except in this case they are breaking off during printing!
My question is, who decided those default settings in Cura to be what they are? They are pretty much bad for any models.
Now its time to print me a girlfriend!
Be sure to use TPU so you don't hurt yourself!
I have a small part with a right arch. Supports are IMPOSSIBLE to get out
Hm, why not just turn the model upside down? The small base area just doesn't need as much support as the big cross on top does...? 🤔
It was pointed out at the 7:48 mark of the video for the obvious reasons! Thanks for watching!
Here is finaly someone that hates supports as much as me.
Thanks for the video. But please don't use a knife like that; it's gonna end in tears! Fingers behind the blade, always!
I usually don't, but for some reason, that day.....
@pushingplastic7445 BTW, I tried your suggestions, and they worked really well. Thanks heaps!
@@ianthompson4882Awesome! Glad to hear it! Thanks for letting me know and thanks for watching!
Please, an exacto knife is not for prying and wiggeling - it is for cutting! Use an appropriate tool for the task.
th-cam.com/video/FfiQLWprcIU/w-d-xo.html pointing the knife at your fingertip made me cringe.
Yeah, dumb move on my part.
This taught me nothing. And i bought my printer last week
If you just bought your printer last week, what exactly did you expect to learn from this video? There are other things to learn first, like dialing in your printer and material. I'm not sure what you expected.
@@pushingplastic7445 like a setting that makes supports stick less. Or a setting that makes the last layer of the support smaller .
@@KronicDaydreamZ So you missed support interface layer?