I got in my truck drove to my mechanic and let him do what he's best at - I would not even considering to attempt this - You are like a surgeon - Great work. Me I'm more of a Farmer than a mechanic unfortunately I don't have auto repair skills.
thanks for the much needed info! its about time i replaced the bearings on my 94 F150 4x4, so i needed to know how to do it lol. straight forward with no bs. good video!
The setup on a 96 with manual lockouts is so much different than that... For starters, there will be bolts on the caliper instead of pins. And there will be the outer snap ring, but no retaining screw, just a second snap ring in the center. Then, there will be a spindle nut, washer with holes in it, and another spindle nut that should have a pin in the side of it to hold the washer I just mentioned. Much more to the 96 with manual lockouts
@@andrewh7596 I'm not quite sure about a 6 post, mine is a 4 post for these old fords. I got mine from the local auto zone, I'm not home right now so I'm not completely sure what size the socket is, but if I remember right its labeled as "4wd spindle nut socket"
I have a 96 f 150 the front right wheel locked up on me and wont moved I pulled the caliper off to see if that was seized and still wont turn any ideas out there ?
How did you get that piece that the lock ring holds on back on? Mine won't go all the way back on, there's about 1/16" sticking out and I don't know why.
Great video. Thanks for making and posting it. I'm having trouble reassembling the manual hub locking/unocking part. Won't rotate all the way into locked position, and won't stay put in unlocked position. Any advice? Gonna try again this morning. Thanks again.
Replying to my own comment because I figured it out this morning. I strongly advise anyone tearing apart their wheel bearings to NOT remove the center screw holding down the plastic turn dial that you rotate to lock and unlock the hubs. It's not necessary AT ALL. Just remove all 6 outer screws and the entire manual hub lock assembly removes and stays together in 1 unit IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION. Then you can access the hubs and wheel bearings. Of course I figured out this advice ATER it was too late: On my rig ('94 F-150, 4 x 4, manual hubs, 302) the parts of the manual hub lock assembly must go back in a VERY specific orientation, which I didn't figure out til AFTER I'd taken them all apart. There are 3 main parts (2 plastic inner cylinders and 1 chrome metal outer housing) plus a spring, an outer plastic turn dial that you actually turn back and forth to lock and free the manual hubs, and a bunch of screws/bolts). The plastic turn dial mounts on a pentagonal (5-sided) head on one of the inner plastic cylinders through the metal housing, while both the inner plastic cylinders and the outer metal housing mesh with each other via 3 prongs. 5 and 3 not being multiples of each other, only 1 orientation works. I labeled each prong on both plastic cylinders and on the metal housing and went through each orientation till I found 1 that worked. Several hours head scratching til I figured this out. The second one was a breeze. The school of hard knocks . . .
bikerboy2791 I wish I had read your warning! I have a 92 bronco and was replacing the wheel bearing. I removed the middle screw from the red hub lock/ free selector. Long story short, I broke the plastic piece trying to put it all together. I could never figure out how to the factory hub lock cap back together. Ended up just buying a warn hub www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WAR0/9790/03458.oap?year=1992&make=Ford&model=Bronco&vi=5003864&ck=Search_warn+hubs_03458_5003864_3158&keyword=warn+hubs&pt=03458&ppt=C0337 HEED MY WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE MIDDLE SCREW FROM THE MANUAL HUB LOCK/FREE SELECTOR.
i am having a lot of trouble. that bearing at 5:00 will not come off for me. the outside component of it (the part with the ridges) will rotate, but for some reason the inside part of it is stuck in place. im trying to replace the rotor, and that barring MUST come off. i dont understand why its stuck
I have a 1995 ford f150 Eddie Bauer edition and my hub assembly won't go back together and I have the right part and it just won't go in all the way to were I can get the c ring around the out side
Good video. Didn't see the lock nut washer? Do you have one was wondering if maybe that's why I could not get retaining clip of my hub lock at the end. Ran em for 6 month till one broke recently lol
Is this a 1995? I have a 1995 and need to do the ball joints, but can't see how I'm supposed to remember how to put it all back together, after seeing how many things you pulled out of that before you removed the rotor.
You need both. You will need 1 set of outer and 1 set of inner for each wheel. If the bearing are not damaged you don't need to replace them just clean and repack with bearing grease.
Should the spindle locking nut have have torque on it? It seemed really easy for you to take off, I've seen others struggle and even use an impact along with the 4 pin socket
Jason Tetterton yes, but over time they get loose. They should actually be torqued (by factory specs) to around 200 lbs ft... They need to be really tight
I have to say this helped out a lot, i would just look and stare at this and could not figure out to replace my rotor. What is that tool that you used to take the bearing out? is it just a regular deep socket 3/4 wrench? or something else?
what year is that truck? I have a 1988. and both hubs do not have springs behind the switch, the hub from lock to free? is mine missing the springs or is it made like that??????
Richard Downer You're entire hub assembly is probably different. I tried to replace the hubs on my '87 and I discovered that Ford used the same setup for like 20 years, except in '87-'88. For some reason they ran with a top hat assembly for about a year. This link talks about them a little, and it contains a link to an upgrade kit. www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190829
Andrew McGillivray Yes in 1988 They had Both styles. mine Is the same as the one in this video. with no springs behind the locker. other than that it's all the same. still easy to work on.. with the right tools.. thanks for the replay. thumbs up...
+Andrew McGillivray I had those on my 87 bronco they were great to work on. When I went to 35' tires and a front locker they exploded first one then both at once. I replaced them with the other kind. I got the whole knuckle off a 96 because I have more trust in the bolt on calapers than those rubber pin things. I found one that had nearly worked its way all the way out one time. Gusseted and plated my cut and turned beams put the D50 slip shaft upgrade in from an f 250 and 4130 outer shafts and have not been able to break it.
THANKS DUDE! you are the MAN. i finally got my rotor off so now i can replace them. But i can not get the hub off the rotors?, tell is this all one unit?? hub and rotor is ONE?
The hub and rotor are 2 separate pieces. You have to drive out the lug nut studs to separate them. At least on the '94 F-150, 4 x 4, 302 engine, manual hubs. Don't know if other years and options are different.
How do you drive the studs out? Orbulus tow will be assisting me with this process :) will the new rotors come with bearing race already installed? I noticed in alot of videos people just toss the race that comes with the new inner outer bearings aside because they stated that the bearing race is already installed on new rotors.. Is this true?
89capricewhite Well, even bein' a virgin brake mechanic I figured out how to drive them out easy enough, but if you need an explanation: place the rotor/hub assembly on several pieces of cardboard on a hard surface with the threads of the lug nut studs sticking up. Use a wide, soft punch pin punch (1 inch or so, brass/bronze?) and a short sledge hammer to ram those fuckers out. As per the bearing races, I don't know for sure if they're "installed" on the new rotors, because as far as I can tell the races are a physical part of the rotor, but maybe I'm wrong. Didn't inspect them too closely. Ask at the parts counter. I wouldn't replace the bearings automatically. I'd clean the bearings and the races well in solvent, then show em to someone with more experience than you. You may be able to repack them with fresh grease and reuse them. Best o luck. I just finished up at 1:30 this morning. The brake pads themselves are a breeze. A two hour job (for just the brake pads) turned into 2 days (for both rotors/wheel bearing assemblies, plus stripped threads, bent bolts, poor workmanship from the previous brake job, figuring out how everything goes back together). Sheesh. I'll sleep when I'm dead . . .
i have a 96 F 250 4x4 7.3 powerstroke. I removed the cap,....the lock ring,.....the hub assembly,.... the C clip lock ring on the axle shaft,....2 spacers,....a 4 pin nut,....2 more spacers,.....another 4 pin nut. This is as far as i got,.......it looks like another spacer of some sort and then the outer wheel bearing,.........no slots it the spacer,........and nothing will move.......i can't get the bearing out or the hub off,........any idea's??
+Robert Smith Jr I'm having the same problem on my 94. it looks so simple in the video and haynes manual but not when your doing it the first time. that outer snap ring aint no joke either. can hardly get that thing off or on.
i have a 95 bronco 4x4 auto locking hub have gotten all the way to last bearing but the socket auto store sold me is not loosening the last nut to get hub off help please
I had that problem earlier until I finally got the washer sitting in front of it has to slide off first but that second 4 prong nut on mine won't back off it goes from finger loose to really tight both ways, im thinking somethings messed up
i have a 1989 Ford Bronco Full size 4 X 4, 5.0 302 ci V8, With Manual Locking Hubs, i Took the Factory Hubs off & threw them away and bought Warn Hubs, So Much better,
When removing the hub lock/ free dial selector thing, do not remove the little screw in the middle of the selector!!! I did and wasted the rest of the day trying to figure out how to fix it. ended up just buying a whole new hub: hub www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WAR0/9790/03458.oap?year=1992&make=Ford&model=Bronco&vi=5003864&ck=Search_warn+hubs_03458_5003864_3158&keyword=warn+hubs&pt=03458&ppt=C0337
Hate to tell you this dude, but that Mystik grease is the cheapest crap for grease that is on the market. You're dealing with the bearings that support your entire vehicle (and your life too)... Really, invest in a good quality lube... Don't take a shortcut here. Want proof that it's junk ? Just set that tube in the sunshine for awhile and come back in an hour or two and you'll notice that it's melting ! Even in the shop in the shade, it will turn to liquid and drip out of your grease gun (in the shade), so what do you think it will do inside your hubs/bearings where the temps are going to exceed 200-300 degrees under a load ? Personally, I use only Lucus on all my own stuff as well as any work I do for others. P.S. Not trying to "sell" Lucus either... I just love their products.
Dang man, is that a sacrificial socket extension or what ? Get a set of chisels and punches... Never use your socket extension as a punch... eventually, it will mushroom the end and you'll never get your ratchet to fit into it again. If you don't know how to use your tools properly, why am I watching your video ?
The extension is exactly the right size to drive the pins out. I would never use anything but an extension for this particular task. The amount of resistance isn't enough to hurt the extension. You noticed the pins are hollow, right?
![แล้วแต่เวรแต่กรรม-ครูศรีหนุ่ม [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Xide0fkAS8g/mqdefault.jpg)
9 years later still dropping knowledge, thanks man!!!!
I got in my truck drove to my mechanic and let him do what he's best at - I would not even considering to attempt this - You are like a surgeon - Great work. Me I'm more of a Farmer than a mechanic unfortunately I don't have auto repair skills.
No BS, just the needed info. Thanks dude
Great video. Easy to follow and straight to the point.
after 11yrs this man saved my life lol
thanks for the much needed info! its about time i replaced the bearings on my 94 F150 4x4, so i needed to know how to do it lol. straight forward with no bs. good video!
It had been so long since i had done the brakes i had forgotten about the secondary snap ring. Thanks for the reminder.
great job,its nice to see it when you havent done it in years
Liked how you got that snap ring lol great video!!!
Here in hawaii big iland 4x4 hi demands. Your video helped me out. Thanks man, aloha
Thanks for the video man...really helped out.
The setup on a 96 with manual lockouts is so much different than that... For starters, there will be bolts on the caliper instead of pins. And there will be the outer snap ring, but no retaining screw, just a second snap ring in the center. Then, there will be a spindle nut, washer with holes in it, and another spindle nut that should have a pin in the side of it to hold the washer I just mentioned. Much more to the 96 with manual lockouts
Taurus the Wolf-Dragon any idea on how to get that outter ring out without a hook? That little fucker is impossible
Where can i find a 6 post spindle nut socket? Ive got a 96 and cant seem to find one thats big enough, it measures out to about 2-11/16
@@andrewh7596 I'm not quite sure about a 6 post, mine is a 4 post for these old fords. I got mine from the local auto zone, I'm not home right now so I'm not completely sure what size the socket is, but if I remember right its labeled as "4wd spindle nut socket"
I have a 96 bronco and I'm confused on how to put my manual hub back together
Thanks for the video, I was trying to do mine this weekend and didn't know that there was a ring to remove with a pick.
I have a 89 inline 6, 4*4 bronco- Thanks for the video!
Thank you for sharing this video. Very helpful
how do you replace the rotor and leave the studs on? i have a 94 f150 with 4x4 and my rotors didn't come with the studs.
I have a 96 f 150 the front right wheel locked up on me and wont moved I pulled the caliper off to see if that was seized and still wont turn any ideas out there ?
Great tutorial! Helped a lot!! Thanks!!!
Very well done and thank you for this video.
I'm working on a 1986 with manual locking hubs and it doesn't have a set screw. Trying to figure out how to get it apart.
Thanks. You saved me a heart ache. I am turffing this job to my Master mechanic farther in law!
How did you get that piece that the lock ring holds on back on? Mine won't go all the way back on, there's about 1/16" sticking out and I don't know why.
how do you take off the bearings cap on a 1994 ford f150 xlt Automatic4 wheel drive 5.0
Can you seperate the rotor and hub? I’m doing the brakes in my 89 4wd f150. I removed everything and am trying to replace the rotor alone
Is this the same procedure for a 1990 bronco with auto locking hubs?
thanks man this helped out big time replacing the hubs on the truck in my pic lol
thanks man!! lots of fun parts!!
Looking for help for a 1995 ford f150 how to get pins out of the hub ,your showing use something for a 4 wheel drive ,can you help use out .thank you
Thanks for the video, it was a helpful step by step.
I'm glad it helped.
thank you for sharing !!!very helpful
what is the torque setting for the spindle lock nut?
Great video. Thanks for making and posting it. I'm having trouble reassembling the manual hub locking/unocking part. Won't rotate all the way into locked position, and won't stay put in unlocked position. Any advice? Gonna try again this morning. Thanks again.
Replying to my own comment because I figured it out this morning. I strongly advise anyone tearing apart their wheel bearings to NOT remove the center screw holding down the plastic turn dial that you rotate to lock and unlock the hubs. It's not necessary AT ALL. Just remove all 6 outer screws and the entire manual hub lock assembly removes and stays together in 1 unit IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION. Then you can access the hubs and wheel bearings.
Of course I figured out this advice ATER it was too late:
On my rig ('94 F-150, 4 x 4, manual hubs, 302) the parts of the manual hub lock assembly must go back in a VERY specific orientation, which I didn't figure out til AFTER I'd taken them all apart. There are 3 main parts (2 plastic inner cylinders and 1 chrome metal outer housing) plus a spring, an outer plastic turn dial that you actually turn back and forth to lock and free the manual hubs, and a bunch of screws/bolts). The plastic turn dial mounts on a pentagonal (5-sided) head on one of the inner plastic cylinders through the metal housing, while both the inner plastic cylinders and the outer metal housing mesh with each other via 3 prongs. 5 and 3 not being multiples of each other, only 1 orientation works. I labeled each prong on both plastic cylinders and on the metal housing and went through each orientation till I found 1 that worked. Several hours head scratching til I figured this out. The second one was a breeze. The school of hard knocks . . .
bikerboy2791 I wish I had read your warning! I have a 92 bronco and was replacing the wheel bearing. I removed the middle screw from the red hub lock/ free selector. Long story short, I broke the plastic piece trying to put it all together. I could never figure out how to the factory hub lock cap back together. Ended up just buying a warn hub www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WAR0/9790/03458.oap?year=1992&make=Ford&model=Bronco&vi=5003864&ck=Search_warn+hubs_03458_5003864_3158&keyword=warn+hubs&pt=03458&ppt=C0337
HEED MY WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE MIDDLE SCREW FROM THE MANUAL HUB LOCK/FREE SELECTOR.
i am having a lot of trouble. that bearing at 5:00 will not come off for me. the outside component of it (the part with the ridges) will rotate, but for some reason the inside part of it is stuck in place. im trying to replace the rotor, and that barring MUST come off. i dont understand why its stuck
I have a 1995 ford f150 Eddie Bauer edition and my hub assembly won't go back together and I have the right part and it just won't go in all the way to were I can get the c ring around the out side
Going to put up a packing outer and inner bearings and replacing them on this vehicle.
it would be helpful to know your truck model year. mine is 93 and looks different, the hubs are automatic i think
this helped ke work on my 88 im glad even tho the video is old and for an f150 worked for my 250 😂
Good video. Didn't see the lock nut washer? Do you have one was wondering if maybe that's why I could not get retaining clip of my hub lock at the end. Ran em for 6 month till one broke recently lol
Great walk through
Trying to replace my rotors thanks this will help a ton
Can you tell me where I can find replacement assembly?
Is this a 1995? I have a 1995 and need to do the ball joints, but can't see how I'm supposed to remember how to put it all back together, after seeing how many things you pulled out of that before you removed the rotor.
a ha... it changed in 1995. What is the torque on the single nut?
What kind of socket was that big one
What's the difference in outer and inner wheel bearing? Autozone has both not sure what I need for this. I'm assuming outer??
You need both. You will need 1 set of outer and 1 set of inner for each wheel. If the bearing are not damaged you don't need to replace them just clean and repack with bearing grease.
Short and sweet...
Should the spindle locking nut have have torque on it? It seemed really easy for you to take off, I've seen others struggle and even use an impact along with the 4 pin socket
Jason Tetterton yes, but over time they get loose. They should actually be torqued (by factory specs) to around 200 lbs ft... They need to be really tight
On those, the 4x4 is electrical right?
After I replace the bearing how do I put it back together
What year F150 is this? Mine is a 93 and it doesn't have a hub assembly like that.
huge help,thx!
I have to say this helped out a lot, i would just look and stare at this and could not figure out to replace my rotor. What is that tool that you used to take the bearing out? is it just a regular deep socket 3/4 wrench? or something else?
lots of help! thank you
what year is that truck? I have a 1988. and both hubs do not have springs behind the switch, the hub from lock to free? is mine missing the springs or is it made like that??????
Richard Downer You're entire hub assembly is probably different. I tried to replace the hubs on my '87 and I discovered that Ford used the same setup for like 20 years, except in '87-'88. For some reason they ran with a top hat assembly for about a year. This link talks about them a little, and it contains a link to an upgrade kit. www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190829
Andrew McGillivray Yes in 1988 They had Both styles. mine Is the same as the one in this video. with no springs behind the locker. other than that it's all the same. still easy to work on.. with the right tools.. thanks for the replay. thumbs up...
+Andrew McGillivray I had those on my 87 bronco they were great to work on. When I went to 35' tires and a front locker they exploded first one then both at once. I replaced them with the other kind. I got the whole knuckle off a 96 because I have more trust in the bolt on calapers than those rubber pin things. I found one that had nearly worked its way all the way out one time. Gusseted and plated my cut and turned beams put the D50 slip shaft upgrade in from an f 250 and 4130 outer shafts and have not been able to break it.
THANKS DUDE! you are the MAN. i finally got my rotor off so now i can replace them. But i can not get the hub off the rotors?, tell is this all one unit?? hub and rotor is ONE?
The hub and rotor are 2 separate pieces. You have to drive out the lug nut studs to separate them. At least on the '94 F-150, 4 x 4, 302 engine, manual hubs. Don't know if other years and options are different.
How do you drive the studs out? Orbulus tow will be assisting me with this process :) will the new rotors come with bearing race already installed? I noticed in alot of videos people just toss the race that comes with the new inner outer bearings aside because they stated that the bearing race is already installed on new rotors.. Is this true?
bikerboy2791 OK cool we will try it I'm helping 89capricewhite he has a 93 F150 manual hub
89capricewhite Well, even bein' a virgin brake mechanic I figured out how to drive them out easy enough, but if you need an explanation: place the rotor/hub assembly on several pieces of cardboard on a hard surface with the threads of the lug nut studs sticking up. Use a wide, soft punch pin punch (1 inch or so, brass/bronze?) and a short sledge hammer to ram those fuckers out.
As per the bearing races, I don't know for sure if they're "installed" on the new rotors, because as far as I can tell the races are a physical part of the rotor, but maybe I'm wrong. Didn't inspect them too closely. Ask at the parts counter.
I wouldn't replace the bearings automatically. I'd clean the bearings and the races well in solvent, then show em to someone with more experience than you. You may be able to repack them with fresh grease and reuse them.
Best o luck. I just finished up at 1:30 this morning. The brake pads themselves are a breeze. A two hour job (for just the brake pads) turned into 2 days (for both rotors/wheel bearing assemblies, plus stripped threads, bent bolts, poor workmanship from the previous brake job, figuring out how everything goes back together). Sheesh. I'll sleep when I'm dead . . .
+Orbulus Tow or get a spindle puller. I would not do anything to mess up your machined surfaces
Thanks for sharing Bro...
never seen a rotor like that get resurfaced on a lathe before wonder what kind of adapters are needed
I believe the rotor comes off of that plate there then needs to be re-hammered back on. Could be wrong though
Thanks for the video
thanks man, helps a lot
i have a 96 F 250 4x4 7.3 powerstroke. I removed the cap,....the lock ring,.....the hub assembly,.... the C clip lock ring on the axle shaft,....2 spacers,....a 4 pin nut,....2 more spacers,.....another 4 pin nut. This is as far as i got,.......it looks like another spacer of some sort and then the outer wheel bearing,.........no slots it the spacer,........and nothing will move.......i can't get the bearing out or the hub off,........any idea's??
+Robert Smith Jr I'm having the same problem on my 94. it looks so simple in the video and haynes manual but not when your doing it the first time. that outer snap ring aint no joke either. can hardly get that thing off or on.
hit the side of the rotor with your palm (in towards the centerline of truck) and the bearing should pop on out... be ready to catch it.
Amigo porque mi f 150 4x4 siente los remolques cuando los va remolcando es modelo 1992
Good job bud
What year is this vehicle?
great video thanks!!!!!
nice vid!
great stuff
A very well made video. But I don't have 4 wheel drive, so my rotors will be different. Still, Good Job!
i have a 95 bronco 4x4 auto locking hub have gotten all the way to last bearing but the socket auto store sold me is not loosening the last nut to get hub off help please
I had that problem earlier until I finally got the washer sitting in front of it has to slide off first but that second 4 prong nut on mine won't back off it goes from finger loose to really tight both ways, im thinking somethings messed up
I'm guessing the 2 wheel drive is a bit different?
Perpetual Youth yes very much so. You won't have the lockout to remove, therefore teardown/install will be much faster and easier
Thank you!
Thanks dude
Very helpful Ty
Would help if you say what model year.
1993
thanks lot of help
nice
Thankyou.
Not all f-150s are the same it depends on the axles both of the ford's I have were nothing like thus video
What size 4pin socket
2 5/8's in
Is this for 88 ford
Spindle??
This is a 4WD truck, also, the super duty trucks have a different arrangement as I understand it.
i have a 1989 Ford Bronco Full size 4 X 4, 5.0 302 ci V8, With Manual Locking Hubs, i Took the Factory Hubs off & threw them away and bought Warn Hubs, So Much better,
I was expecting there to be two lock nuts?
When removing the hub lock/ free dial selector thing, do not remove the little screw in the middle of the selector!!! I did and wasted the rest of the day trying to figure out how to fix it. ended up just buying a whole new hub: hub www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WAR0/9790/03458.oap?year=1992&make=Ford&model=Bronco&vi=5003864&ck=Search_warn+hubs_03458_5003864_3158&keyword=warn+hubs&pt=03458&ppt=C0337
Great, very
1993f150frontwheel assembly for 4x4
what size is the 4 pin nut?
4 pin 2.375 outer spindle nut socket
thank you sir
I have a 1993 f150 with i6 And I changed the front brakes which they are pads. Now their getting hot the whole wheel. Dose anybody know why
2000 f250 hub replacement
Thank
ty ty
I've been watching for 4 minutes and still don't know what year this is. Why isn't that in the title? A lot of changes in 37 years.
Your supposed to use a torx 25 bit so you don't strip your screws
No no pull the hole thing out after u take them out. Keep that tool turn. Now pull all out????
I gotta do my f350 is the same shit
Hate to tell you this dude, but that Mystik grease is the cheapest crap for grease that is on the market.
You're dealing with the bearings that support your entire vehicle (and your life too)... Really, invest in a good quality lube... Don't take a shortcut here.
Want proof that it's junk ?
Just set that tube in the sunshine for awhile and come back in an hour or two and you'll notice that it's melting !
Even in the shop in the shade, it will turn to liquid and drip out of your grease gun (in the shade), so what do you think it will do inside your hubs/bearings where the temps are going to exceed 200-300 degrees under a load ?
Personally, I use only Lucus on all my own stuff as well as any work I do for others.
P.S.
Not trying to "sell" Lucus either... I just love their products.
great video, but next time used gloves! :)
Que ańo es
Jesus christ, all i needed was to replace a fucking rotor lol
No un
U realize they came from factory no touch 4x4 just pull inside. Put people do this shit. He not doing so good.
Dang man, is that a sacrificial socket extension or what ? Get a set of chisels and punches... Never use your socket extension as a punch... eventually, it will mushroom the end and you'll never get your ratchet to fit into it again.
If you don't know how to use your tools properly, why am I watching your video ?
The extension is exactly the right size to drive the pins out. I would never use anything but an extension for this particular task. The amount of resistance isn't enough to hurt the extension. You noticed the pins are hollow, right?
STOP buying shitty tools that mushroom, dumbass.