BAMBU LAB A1 vs TWOTREES SK1 compared to P1S and K1 (3D Print Quality REVIEW)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
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👉🏻 In this video I will be testing Bambu Lab's A1 and TwoTrees SK1 which both companies sent for review. I will also compare them to the P1S and Creality's K1. I use multiple test prints that expose the flaws of each printer and show their true print quality.
🖤 Support my work at PATREON - / diyperspective
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📋 RELATED ITEMS TO THE VIDEO (Affiliate):
3D printers:
- Bambu Lab A1 shrsl.com/4dob8
- Bambu Lab P1S shrsl.com/480sa
- Bambu Lab X1C shrsl.com/480se
- TwoTrees SK1 shrsl.com/4do12
- Creality K1 shrsl.com/4cj31
Filaments:
- Bambu Lab filaments shrsl.com/480r3
- Hyper PLA shrsl.com/4cj3s
- SUNLU Meta PLA bit.ly/SUNLU_META_PLA
- Filalab PLA filalab.shop/product-category... (non-affiliate)
Testing equipment:
- T3 PRO IR Camera - US: amzn.to/469wcGA EU: www.amazon.de/dp/B0BNKH57Z6?f...
- Digital Microscope LM407-Pro amzn.to/3YckE2O
- Digital Calipers s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dlt...
- Digital Micrometer s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Deb...
📷 VIDEO SHOT ON:
- Fuji X-S10 amzn.to/3Zar9BW
📢 OTHER MENTIONED THINGS:
- Test Prints and Print SETTINGS www.printables.com/model/5805...
🕗 TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 - Intro
00:46 - Heatbeds thermal imaging
01:47 - Max Flow Rates
02:55 - Cooling Performance
04:02 - Extrusion Consistency
04:50 - Z-Hop Consistency
05:08 - First Layer Consistency
06:16 - Vibration Compensation / Input Shaping
07:21 - X vs Y Axis Difference
07:57 - VFA
08:43 - Speed 3DBenchy
09:17 - Small Details
09:39 - Final thoughts about SK1
11:35 - Final thoughts about A1
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Twitter: / diyperspective
#bambulab #a1 #sk1 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
BE AWARE of the A1 3D printer RECALL due to the bad heatbed cable blog.bambulab.com/a1-recall-update/
Does not apply to the A1 Mini.
Love that you actually compare measured results rather than anecdotal ones like other TH-camrs usually do. Sick of seeing others compare things like tolerance test models between machines , and usually without even telling us if they created calibrated filament profiles with the correct PA and Flow Rate etc. Your information is actually useful to compare.
Thanks. Yeah, tolerance tests test the slicer profiles not the actual 3d printer.
This was probably the best and most thorough comparison and review I’ve seen in the niche. Phenomenal. You earned a subscriber. And you’ve set the bar high for future reviews and comparisons!
Awesome, thank you! :)
I hope twotrees watches this as their issues are all easily addressed and you spelled them out perfectly.
They won't, they have been missing these things for years and will keep missing them 😢
lol they've been making shitty corexy printers for a long time. You can sort of fix them if you treat them as skeletons for something more custom but they're not good out of the box.
The wiring made me cringe
Its the SP-5 all over again. Its a great shell, but they just cheap out on actual printing. Not worth it in any way (and they know it)
This is how all the cheapo companies are.
They release products they clearly haven't even used themselves, wait for t9ns of complaints and users to mod it, then they make only some of those changes and release a new version.
I learned more about the K1 from this video about the A1 and SK1, than I did from most other TH-camr's dedicated K1 videos. This is awesome.
Bambu hates bed-slingers... but they made two of the best bed-slingers ever created. 😄
They use a bed slinger to defeat other corexy. So why not. 😅
@@majianjia
It’s a way to reduce cost and try to pressure competitors. It isn’t as good as the X1 or P1 series, but is a good bed-slinger that offers multi-material.
In terms of cost to capability, however, a Neptune 4 is a lot better. However you don’t have a multi-material option for that (at least as of now). I would not buy Bambu Lab for a single material printing requirement as it is over-priced. (They do at least offer a lot of spare parts at very reasonable prices, so the bespoke parts issue is mitigated.)
Core XY or bed slingers, the fact is that Bambu Lab makes the best printers, no matter what. Buying anything else is a waste of money. And that is a fact!
facts!@@TheNature101
It's nice because they force the market to step their game up.
I have two p1s and an a1. The a1 is the real deal for cheap multi color. I personally love my p1s and if you consider the space needed for the ams lite, the p1s has a better footprint imo.
I will be buying five more a1 printers though, and will be placing them on a custom rack. While the p1s is great, being able to own two a1's for the price of one p1s is a game changer. For farms, I think we will see the a1 picking up serious storm.
wonderful video, not only does it teach a lot about these 4 printers; but it taught me variables to test and optimise for on my own printer.
Really appreciate the presentation of your comparison analysis. Good format to illustrate details and differences. Keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
Great video, one of the best and complete comparison out there
Thanks for the very technical review and tests!
Other channels print a boat and post happy reviews, I'm tired of that.
Im currently checking out a few printers and this is by far the best comparison i found. Since im looking for an entry Level model with multicololor the a1 seems to be the way to go for me. Thanks for that great Video!
Glad it was helpful!
Great work, comprehensive testing, easy to follow. Not much more we can ask for! Great job.
Thank you!
Wow, nice and detailed comparison. Liked it :)
Glad you liked it!
Great overview and review, I still dont know what printer to buy out of the A1 vs P1S. Is it worth buying the P1S overall if unsure about materials in the future. Do you think there will be major releases this year that might make the P1S obsolete?
If you have plans to print ABS, like for example for DIY printer parts or you can design your own practical prints I would go for the P1S. I can't imagine even Bambu Lab releasing a printer that would make the P1S obsolete in coming years.
Did you tighten the belts according to GT specifications and run the Filament calibrations in Orca?
Could you please advise the ports numbers (uart ids) for the fan ports on SK1? Or share your config file for this printer.
It is very loud, but I cannot find pinout map for this motherboard.
Thank you!
Coming from a Bambu Lab X1C, My A1 has less ringing, still very fast. Very happy!
thx for souting the voron into the accuracy test. it made my choice of building one feel even better
But it depends on how well you build it. I tried to align every part as perfectly as possible during the build.
Great comparison. The SK1 is a bit of a dissapointment. The print quality is definitely not as good as it could have been for that price. Here's to hoping some more lower cost, CoreXY, fully assembled 3d printers come onto the market soon, so we get even more choice.
True, after I unboxed SK1 it felt so solid. But like always, other companies except Bambu just sabotage their printers with some questionable design decisions. I just don't get it...
Great comparison video! The benchy print time caught my attention. So how come it's 49 minutes on the A1 while everyone on youtube is showing 20 and 14 minute benchies? Are those like hyperspeed profiles which are meant for pure speed, not quality?
Additionally if speed is half that of the P1S, why is everyone saying that the A1 is only around 20-30% slower than a core xy?
I have all the main settings for the 3DBenchy I use in the link in the video description to Printables. I use regular layer height, regular line widths, 3 walls, 15% infill, slowdown for overhangs, spiral Z hop, and so on. Those are realistic settings that you would use for all of your prints. I don't even think you can slice the Benchy at 15mins with P1S with all optimized settings. I think those 14-minute prints are custom g-codes to achieve that.
It is half of the speed on the 3D Benchy sliced with normal printing settings. It depends on the model as it could have literally identical print times on ones where you almost don't need to travel. But a 10K max acceleration printer will never be as fast as 20K with the same other settings. That is just a fact, you know.
Glad I ordered a p1s. Still waiting to start my 3d printing experience
It is a great 3d printer for the price :)
Your video is very informative. Good work man👍👍👍
I have a question at the end, is the Bambu Lab A1 good and how is the A1 Mini and is it worth the money, is the SK1 that much better? And how good is Bambu Lab?
Great video, and for a high-speed printer, I would still choose CoreXY. The structure of SK1 attracts me, but it seems that the firmware part needs improvement. Creality K1 looks good, but I encountered many issues after purchasing one, and I found that its entire support structure is just its plastic shell. I don't believe it can remain unchanged after working for a while.
While the SK1 frame is nice and rigid, their used long rods for the idlers are just a joke. All they had to do was to fix the bottom of the rods to the frame. This is what annoys me the most... Mistakes like these destroy all the potential that the printer could have.
Great video!
Thanks!
It's funny some get good printers and some get bad ones. I got a k1 and had a few issues with the bed not being level etc. I was able to fix it easily and rooted it and am now running stock Klipper. I also loosened the belts a bit and most of the artifacts and inconsistent layers are no longer an issue. The biggest thing for me was the price. I was able to get my k1 at about half the price of a p1s. So when you look at it that way the k1 starts to look way more attractive. Now I get some don't want to have to do that but for those like me who don't mind tinkering it is a good value. I am also not new to 3D printing as the k1 is my 4th printer. If the P1S wasn't a 1000$ here in Canada I would have considered it. But is it twice as good as a k1 that is sorted out? Well, not sure about that part. Just my opinion and thanks for sharing. Cheers
I mean, that is a very valid reason to buy K1. If you can fix most of the issues with no significant increase in price then it is a good option. It always depends on your region's price and your skills. I am glad there are people like you who understand that and can take it into account and not just say it is not fair to compare K1 to P1S.
It would be interesting to see all printers properly calibrated (K1 needs to be rooted as you did -> better input shaping), but of course that's not what everyone does. But K1 seems to have aggressive IS and too high acceleration when printing -> details blurred.
Also what kind of print quality calibrated K1 would do at A1 speed (slower, 10K) - would A1 still be better 🤔
I agree but there is one more issue, I don't want to encourage theft, those that steal from others should not be paid for their lack of morals.
Thanks for the nice video.
A Flashforge adventurer 5m Pro test would be very interesting as it shined in all the tests I saw regarding print quality. But as you mentioned in your videos it would be nice to know the real performance and not the performance on prints where everything looks good.
TBH it seems like a decent printer, it just needs to be $400, which seems like a very difficult price point to hit. For me, I'd probably spend $300 on a Qidi X-Smart3 before $400 on a Bambu Lab A1, but I like that we're becoming spoiled with options. Def some strange choices on this Two Trees machine that I think they can at least improve with minor revisions, like those belt guide pulley mounts.
SK1 is definitely not a bad 3D printer, but it is hard to recommend when it feels unfinished with questionable decisions. The sad part is that the main problems could have been easily solved during the design stage. We are getting spoiled with options but with average options at best, where nobody can come even close to the standard that Bambu Lab set. That is what worries me in the long run.
@@PrintingPerspective Definitely understand that... Perspective. ;) The average quality of Bambu Lab prints makes it hard to question any of their pricing and of course recommending them in general. I'm a huge tinkerer, so I don't mind some work if I save money, but I still don't want something fundamentally flawed. Hope they fix issues based on feedback from you and others! Many are easy to fix. At least Creality tried to fix the K1 cable chain issues with the K1C, but even they can do better, hahaha.
Super comparatif et quel travail pour cette vidéo , je me demandais ce que valait la A1 que je possèdes par rapport a un p1S , maintenant grâce a vous je le sais , merci..................
Great Comparison,
I like the use of the ps1 insteat of the x1c for mid to lower priced printer comparisons, although they perform basecally the same (kinda feels wierd to compare an over 1k printer to for ex. the k1, like in the video with the k1max)
Can you test the qidi x plus/max 3 too?
I really struggled between the p1s/combo, the K1/ K1 max and the two Qidi's and your last videos let me take the K1's out of the race, but I'm still not sure about the qidi's. There are some reviews out there comparing them, but I haven't seen anyone really try getting out good results (mostly open and start printing with no intention to even use the orca slicer for example, rooting, or try simple hardware mods, ... also mostly comparing testprints in diffrent colors, which makes me mad. I love you using the same filament for all printers in those tests)
Thanks. I mean, why it is weird? You can see the print quality difference, you can see the price and you can decide if is it worth it for you. That is the main goal.
QIDI printers feel very cheap. I tested the first gen X-Plus 3 and it was a complete nightmare. They might improve things with updates but there is no way it will come close to the P1S. To be frank, the more printers I test, the more I realize how far away other companies are from the Bambu Lab.
I agree with alphas comment in the sense that it's hard to truly get a read on the qidi printers. For me, the biggest pluses for the qidi printers are open source Klipper and heated chamber. That's really it. And the pricing is fair. If bambu can make a somewhat larger P1S, with a reasonable screen, and a chamber heater with insulation, for under $1000, it will be a 100% no brainer. I honestly wouldn't care about them being closed source at that point.
thanks for the reply and the inside to your experience. it really seems like the bambulab printers are way better and really affordable.
the only things letting me personally consider the qidi's is the build volume, the "print quality" (most reviews set them way above the k1 series and close to the p1s, which might have been poor testing or maybe you got a worst case x-plus 3, which i kinda doubt) and the open source klipper like @dmax9324 said.
Chroma set from co print is supposed to lauch soon and they claimed in the Formnext 2023 (3D printing nerd) video, it's possible to print TPU and PVA with their ams and I doubt it will work with bambulab (which AMS is not compatible with TPU and PVA and you cant use it on any other printer).
I know it is all speculations, but the chroma set looked like it could change things up in the multifilament/-color 3D print community
the bambulab p1s combo is probably the better choice anyway. If you remember out of curiosity I would still like to know which batch your x-plus 3 was from (they had a callback event aperantly)
I advise you to do a comparative test between the Bambu Lab A1 and the Ankermake M5c. It is similar but actually prints at the speed that the A1 promises but does not maintain (Benchy perfect in 14 minutes)
Not sure why i am watching this while I have a P1S sitting next to me, but it confirmed my suspicion :') P1S/Bambulab took this industry by storm, truly awesome machines.
Same reason I am with my V-core3 which totally destroys all of these. :D
@noanyobiseniss7462 Destroys them all, tell me more? What's the price difference, how does it work out of the box or do you have additional tinkering? Is it enclosed and how may colors can it print up too and what materials?
@@noanyobiseniss7462How does it compare to the X1C or the Prusa XL?
Bambu lab is outdated. They need to stop resting on their laurels. Everyone is overtaking them now.
@@noanyobiseniss7462 That's what you think. Send your V-core3 to DIYPERSPECTIVE to do his real tests and show that V-core3 not that good... especially for the price that they are asking....
Very interesting review to balance out all the paid SK1 reviews out there. I almost bought one, but decided to go with a well proven MK4 instead. I know I will never get those print speeds as a core XY, but I need reliable printer that get the job done.
I doubt they're payed but I think most people do more like overviews as they try to cover all the things but nothing in depth. I just go in depth at print quality aspect because that is what I care the most. And then I make the TLDR of my thoughts about the printers in general.
Yeah, having a printer that you can always rely on is great.
If TT prodices 300mm build volume version and fixes the issues showed here it will be very tempting to get it.
This testing is awesome, i wish you would test Troodon 2.0 esp with the Dragon HF stealthburner
Very good comparison, thank you.
I like your attention to details, like the revealing top-down light on samples.
Thanks. Yeah, those are the worst lighting conditions for 3d prints that reveal all the inconsistent layers.
With this video you just got the holy trifecta - Like, Share, Sub 😀
I got tired of recalibratimg the printers every 5 prints whilst running "stock" 50-80mm/s speeds which in reality translate into up to 50 on most objects.
I researched my best out of the box - stable, consistent, least hassle - core xy option and Bambu it was. I drooled a bit over SK1 and given it was so recent, no effective and relevant reviews were found. K1 looks good at dirst glance but once you go past the "speedy" veil and dog deeper, it again turns out to be what all Creality are - a good tinker toy but lacking the quality at 50% capacity whilst retaining consistency. I looked at Flashforge, Flying bear and a few more but "with consistency" Bambu's P came up on top.
I just pulled the plug on a P1P which will get a number of upgrades to bring it to S state...and maybe a bit better.
My next curiosity will be - once i go through the P1P - how well a Mercury 1.1 and a Trident will stack up on the same lines? - consistency, lack of hassle once set up - how many prints in between a pair of tuning cycles?
Thanks for your review and your time to put together these info shares.🎉
Thanks. I only have Voron 2.4 and even though it is a budget Fysetc kit it has been good with Stealthburner and TAP upgrades so far. The only calibration that I might need to do after multiple print hours is the input shaping. But it is a DIY printer that requires a huge amount of hours to build, tune, and make or get custom scripts for it. Hardware and design-wise Vorons feel very solid, I compared the print quality of V2.4 vs X1C in one of my previous videos.
@DIYPERSPECTIVE Thanks for the feedback...wasn't expecting it really 😀 I surely watched the 2.4 vs X1 at some point but I'm now going for it again 😀 adding to the stats.
I know the voron is a lot of work setting it up but that's not a problem. My target is to get reliability over time and a trident is in plan.
Provided I don't forget 😀 once I have both the P1 and the Trident where I want them, I'll buzz again and share my thoughts :)
Cheers 😀
Did you buy the sk1 yourself? Im wondering if other review units may have been cherry picked. Theres a lot of potential with that printer, but its not finished as you say...
No, but I doubt they are. When Bambu sent the P1S I got an email that the batch of those units might have defective extruders and they sent the new ones for all their customers/reviewers. So I had to change it before the testing. Plus my A1 had worse ghosting results than they showed me when they ran the same gcode.
The machine shows great potential, and the hardware is indeed well-done; however, there is room for improvement in the firmware. Once the software is optimized, I would consider getting one.
The company that never wanted to make a bedslinger just made a bedslinger that beats higher priced corexy machines. What a time to be alive lol.
Benchie comparisons you should have displayed the overall time in the graphics.
They are more or less the same because all printers have 20K accelerations except the A1. But I will try to remember to do that in the future.
Video idea. Test effect on z hop on layer consistency. I feel like belted Z and especially lead screws will be worse than ball screws. but i'm not sure how big the affect is
There are so many variables and different designs that it is hard to say in general. I tested ballscrews and they are definitely the most precise option if your ballscrew is not wobbly or you can combat that. I don't really like belted Z personally, but I like the overkill belted Z design on the Voron 2.4. There is no definitive answer to this.
Meanwile me: over two months dealing with neptune 4 pro setting ans calibrations and still get not a very good average prints...
:(
@@PrintingPerspective it's my first 3d printer though. Tons of headache as much as tons of experience because of it)
I think the reason why the A1 has such good extrusion results is because it uses a single gear drive with an idler instead of the dual gear, just like in the Mk4. I wonder if it has the potential to become the new standard since both printers handle TPU just fine
Most likely, MirageC has probably the most topics about it explaining it. If it becomes a new standard depends if the gear has enough surface area to push the filament without deforming it. I might need to think of a test that could show it the best.
Yes, the filament might wander between dual gears, but that could happen with every hobbed gear.
I think it's more about rotating parts not being concentric: motor gear with stepper shaft, POM/nylon gear and drive gear with drive shaft.
Cheap Titan and BMG clones are often so bad they don't even run smoothly (too tight on one end but slack on other end) 🙄
Bigger gears could be easier, but it all comes down to manufacturing parts in proper way (like Bondtech IDGA)
Bambu is just the 👑 of the entry level 3d printer space
They are probably the king of all the levels, to be honest. I wish other companies would actually step up their game.
Hey, I recently bought the sk1 and I'm pretty dissapointed by it. The price difference however is massive, I bought mine for around 480USD while P1P is 730USD for EU at the moment. I tried to bend the pole mounted idlers to see if mine are as bad as yours and to my surprise it is not bulging at all. Perhaps you're running your belts too tight? I don't really know. I'll be adding another MCU just to control those God awful fans since it is impossible to live with such a loud printer. Oh, and mine came with BENT STEPPER MOTOR. Like how do you get Z motor shaft to bend???? It's beyond me. Leadscrew and coupler were thrash as well, luckily I had a spare stepper from an old Ender extruder. Imo it's a "you get what you pay for" type of thing - I would much rather get a Voron kit or a P1S but it was just out of my budget. Thanks for your review, if I saw it earlier I may have dodged a bullet.
I haven't touched the belt tension. TwoTrees includes a note saying that the printer passed like 46 inspection points, so if they didn't tension properly the belt, that is kinda on them. But it felt on par with the Bambu Lab or Creality printers, nothing unordinary.
The problem is the long rod design, maybe you haven't applied as much force as I did. But nobody even with little engineering knowledge would choose a design like that on high acceleration 3D printers.
It’s funny how making the A1 more top heavy made it wobble LESS
SV07Plus can do a Benchy in 12mins, with quality degradation. With good quality, 16-18mins
Shocking design quality. Who thought idlers on a pole was even sensible?
I know... Almost every printer that I tested except Bambu's has some sort of ridiculous design decision that sabotages the true potential of the 3d printer... It is crazy.
fantastic
90 degree corner bulge test. This should be a MANDATORY rating for all 3d printers.
I don't think so, because bulging on the corners depends mainly on how well you tune the pressure advance. It only would be useful to compare machines that run linear advance on Marlin vs pressure advance on Klipper.
The beautiful exterior of Creality K1 sharply contrasts with its poor internal structure. The visible design aspects are very well done, but the hidden areas seem to be poorly constructed to cut costs. I doubt its plastic structure can maintain high-quality printing over the long term.
too bad you didnt include the qidi plus 3 or qidi max 3. Other than that its a really nice comparison.
I doubt I will ever include them as my experience with the first gen X Plus 3 was horrible. Maybe if they release redesigned printers I will check them.
@@PrintingPerspective they have made significant structural changes to the frame after gen 1 so you should really try it.
I have Qidi X-Plus 3 myself. The print quality is amazing on it. It's only let down a bit by its weaker hotend heater. There's now aftermarket CHT clone nozzles for it that lifts its game to >20mm^3/s.
The latest revisions of the X-Plus 3 are miles better than fhe first release ones that were pulled from sale.
I also have a K1 that I've rooted, fixed the input shaper, changed the hot end, retensioned the belts. It's now WAY better than it was fresh out of the box, but it still doesn't hold a candle to the prints coming off the Qidi.
Because A1 is not a CoreXY structure, I don't believe its Y-axis belt can perform well consistently under high-speed conditions.
Maybe the SK1's artifacts got less with print time because of the belts stretching?
Maybe, they use no-name belts plus those long rods might be bending more inwards from high accelerations and loosening the belt. And the belt tension can amplify VFAs. So yeah, most likely.
Im pretty disappointed with the sk1. It starts with the always on fans, the fact that they didn't even bother to put the leadscrew nuts on the right way (at least POM nuts), that they are still using the crappy steppers that were used on the sp3 and sp5 printers (vfa), smooth idlers on teethed side of the belt as well as the cantilevered idler mounts, more or less a rail only x axis thats no at the center of gravity. The only selling point is that it got tripple independent z axis which is pretty unique and that it has klipper. Fixing all these issues would be time consuming, especially the cantilevered idler mounts and toolhead balance, at that point you could nearly buy a voron trident which would have the same feature set.
My take on the k1 artifacts is that most comes from the larger stepper pulleys. Less accurate and more wiggle in the axle. As you probably know the magnets allow for a little wiggle in the steppers position without loosing steps, because they are magnets. I cant remember if it was a 32 or 36 teeth pulley, but regardless quite a difference. Also the reason for the 60mm steppers. I personally would bet that swapping to 20t pulleys would result in a print quality increase as vfa would be less pronounced and corner overshooting would be less. Noise levels would obviously change, but since the k1 doesn't use stealthchop by default it won't suddenly be much louder
The bambus superior extrusion comes from their integrated drive gears, similar to the bondtech idga or ridga, the a1 additionally being a single gear extruder ruling out any meshing issues of the feed gears
True, I just hope TwoTrees fixes the problems with version 2 as it can be a pretty good printer.
1000w for just the bed 🥵🥵 jesus that printer alone runs more then my grow lights just for the bed smh include the waste on a 4 color print lol amazing for the earth!!!! times that by million plus people 😥
1000W is only when heating up. When it reaches the target temperature it is like 5 times lower number.
We are missing Flashforge Adventurer 5m from the test :(
I will try to include it in the future when I test it.
Still waiting for x2c *sight*
I picked up an AI and I love it so far
why does it seem like corexy printers suffer more from vfa, i had a neptune 4 and it was pretty much flawless in print quality until the bed calibrations stopped working, i then got a k1 after returning and it printed like absolute garbage because of vfa, i could never get rid of it... i think im going to go for the a1 combo, hopefully it lasts long.
Probably because on a CoreXY two motors work in tandem to move. For example, moving in the Y direction both motors spin equally, so VFAs might be amplified. That is my best guess, but I never explored this topic more so take this with a grain of salt.
When they aim for max speed, they slap in large stepper motors -> "hard" stepping at lower speeds when inertia does not smooth rotation? Too low stepper current at low speeds (added from StepperOnline docs)
Belts resonating with stepper judder?
Non-Gates belts and/or non-Gates pullies -> belt speed/tension changes when running through motor pulley (and - less likely - running over smooth idlers)?
K1C (reportedly?) has smaller steppers and smaller pullies. We'll see if that helps.
My AMS lite doesn't wobble like that at all 🤷♂
It is overexpression, of course, it doesn't wobble exactly like that.
Australia is getting ripped of.. those printers are about $1500 AUD lol..
:O holy...
9:15 the a1 does a pre sliced 14min perfect quality benchy
Try to get those 14min benchy times actually using the slicer that you will use for all of your prints.
@@PrintingPerspective I know it takes 40 mins on slicer but it’s still possible to print a 14 min benchy with pre sliced file
But that is the whole point. It is pre-sliced and non-representative of all the other prints you will make on your printer when using a slicer. Who cares if it can do even 10min presliced benchy if it means nothing as you will never get that on your other prints.
I wish there American made 3d printers that are priced at a reasonable price . It's time to stop giving out money to China and other countries in the 3d printing industry
just for information: the benchy information about the A1 is false. you may have overlooked setting the maximum flow rate to a high value in the filament settings.
Stop spreading misinformation it is not false. I triple-checked the print time in Orca Slicer and even in Bambu Studio. Slice the model yourself with the settings in the video description you will see yourself.
@@PrintingPerspective i have 30:04 with those settings.
P1S is the best for the price you can print most filaments with it and it works great
Twotrees is the worst
I am not sure about the worst, SK1 just feels disappointing. They could fix the problems with version 2 and it would be an amazing 3D printer.
@@PrintingPerspective yeah I had the sapphire plus and it was a paper weight out of the box, I turned it on and the hotend literally caught on fire