QIDI Q1 PRO vs FLASHFORGE A5M PRO compared to P1S (3D Print Quality Review)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2024
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👉🏻 In this in-depth 3D printer testing video, I will be comparing QIDI Q1 PRO versus Flashforge A5M PRO (AD5M PRO) and how their print quality compares to Bambu Lab P1S. I put all the printers through multiple tests that expose their flaws and show the true performance of each machine. My goal is to provide the most honest and detailed feedback about the printers so you can choose a better product.
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📋 RELATED ITEMS TO THE VIDEO (Affiliate):
3D printers:
- QIDI Q1 Pro shrsl.com/4h3av
- Flashforge A5M Pro shrsl.com/4h4xw
- Bambu Lab P1S shrsl.com/480sa
- Bambu Lab X1C shrsl.com/480se
Filaments:
- Bambu Lab filaments shrsl.com/480r3
- SUNLU Meta PLA bit.ly/SUNLU_META_PLA
- Filalab PLA filalab.shop/product-category... (non-affiliate)
Testing equipment:
- T3 PRO IR Camera - US: amzn.to/469wcGA EU: www.amazon.de/dp/B0BNKH57Z6?f...
- Digital Calipers s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dlt...
- Digital Dial indicator s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dkw...
- Digital Micrometer s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Deb...
📢 OTHER MENTIONED THINGS:
- 3D Printer Test STL files and Settings www.printables.com/model/5805...
- Q1 PRO belt tensioning spacers (STL + STEP files) drive.google.com/drive/u/0/mo...
🕗 TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 - Why these reviews are different
00:40 - Heatbed Thermal Imaging & more
02:08 - True MAX FLOW RATES
03:28 - Cooling performance
04:07 - Extrusion consistency
04:30 - Any Z-hop problems?
04:48 - Auto Bed leveling performance
06:15 - Print artifacts at High Acceleration
07:14 - Califlower by Vector 3D
08:08 - Vertical Fine Artifacts
08:26 - 3DBenchy ar Max Advertised numbers
08:48 - Printing the details
09:05 - Practical print from ASA
09:38 - Conclusion about Q1 PRO
11:14 - Conclusion about A5M PRO
13:34 - Each of them offers something different
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Twitter: / diyperspective
#qidi #flashforge #bambulab - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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IMPORTANT! (CORRECTIONS and MORE INFO)
- Spiral Z-hops work on QIDI Q1, but you will have to deal with constant "// Unknown command: "G17"" error messages in the terminal.
- The 3DBenchy print on the RIGHT SIDE is from P1S and not from A5M PRO (text error).
- With Orca Slicer 2.0 you can directly upload and view the webcam of your 5M PRO.
Press on a little Wi-Fi icon next to the name of your printer and configure it. For example:
Host Type: Flashforge
Hostname, IP or URL: 192.168.0.185 (your local IP address of the printer)
Device UI: 192.168.0.185:8080/?action=stream (replace with your IP of the printer)
For the webcam to show video feed in the Device section of Orca Slicer make sure you have enabled the Webcam in the touchscreen menu settings.
Great to see the direction Flash Forge is going, given how their previous printers have preformed this is very refreshing to see.
Very nice review! Thanks for this! I made a short recap of the results as I read them:
Heatbed - heat to 60 ºC
Q1 Pro:
- 4 minutes heatup
- 6 ºC variance
- 120 ºC max / 300W
A5M Pro
- 4 minutes heatup
- 2 ºC variance
- 110 ºC max / 250W
P1S
- 3 minutes heatup
- 6 ºC variance
- 100 ºC max / 1000W
------------------------------
Chamber heater
Q1 Pro:
- Separate 300W heater
A5M Pro
- No heater
P1S
- Aux fan for extra heating with help from powerful bed heating
------------------------------
True flowrate
Q1 PRo:
- 30mm melt zone
- 350 ºC max
- 19mm copper nozzle, hardened steel tip
- 20 mm3/s with 3.4% under extrusion
A5M Pro:
- Quick switch gør udskiftning af hotend nemt
- 36mm melt zone
- 280 ºC max
- Stainless steel nozzle
- 25 mm3/s with 3.6% under extrusion
P1S:
- 26mm melt zone
- 300 ºC max
- 20 mm3/s with 6.1% under extrusion
------------------------------
Fan + noise
Q1 Pro:
- Poor to mediocre overhang quality
- 66 dB with all fans, 40 dB idle
A5M Pro:
- Sub-par to good overhang quality
- 68 dB with all fans, 39 dB idle
P1S:
- Great to perfect overhang quality
- 67 dB with all fans, 0 dB idle
------------------------------
Extrusion consistency
All 3 perform similar
------------------------------
Z-hop consistency
All 3 perform similar
------------------------------
Bed leveling
Q1 Pro
- PLA: 0.032mm variance
- ABS: 0.057mm variance
A5M Pro
- PLA: 0.035mm variance
- ABS: 0.043mm variance
P1S
- PLA: 0.020mm variance
- ABS: 0.032mm variance
------------------------------
Artifacts at high accelerations
P1S best, Q1 Pro worst
- Can be improved for the Q1 Pro and A5M Pro, but can be cumbersome
------------------------------
Dimensional accuracy
All 3 perform fairly similar; the worst performing still acceptable
------------------------------
Artifacts - ringing
All 3 perform similar
------------------------------
3D Benchy:
Q1 Pro:
- 600 mm/s, 20k mm/s acceleration
- High quality with a few surface issues on the body
A5M Pro:
- 600 mm/s, 20k mm/s acceleration
- High quality without any issues
P1S:
- 500 mm/s, 20k mm/s acceleration
- High quality without any issues
------------------------------
ASA Practical Print:
P1S wins with the most consistent layer lines. The others have more inconsistent layer lines.
------------------------------
Build quality:
Q1 Pro
- Sub-par build quality
- Potential Current hazard
A5M Pro
- Great build quality
- A few minor details not great
- Automatic shuts off the heated bed after 10 minutes of inactivity
P1S
- Great build quality
- Very user friendly
Thanks for the summary. One thing - ringing artifacts on the stock Q1 Pro is quite bad. It needs a modification to get acceptable results. :)
Hey @DIYPERSPECTIVE, this was an awesome video. I currently have an x plus 3 and never wanted to mess with the belts. I see you did the print artifacts at high acceleration testing and decided to tension the belts at 6:57 on the Q1 pro. I've been wondering all day, did you end up rerunning input shaping calibration or did you only auto calibrate input shaping out of the box and never touch it. Hope your reply, I'm not sure which option would be the best.
My X-Plus 3 belts were tensioned noticeably more than Q1 PRO, I think it is mainly the issue with Q1 PRO automatic belt tensioning system. Just try using a more aggressive input shaper like EI and its recommended Hz.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Awesome! I'll definitely do so!
Hey. Thanks for the video! How did you install your Q1 spring tensioner mod? Did you have to take off the side panels or were you able to access with them on? Thanks.
I added the spacers from the inside of the printer. You don't need to remove any parts but it is very tricky. It probably would be way easier from the back with the back panel removed.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Thank you!
Great video! I’ve got the basic 5m and love it. Do you think we might see a larger version from flashforge?
Nice review and testing methods. Keep up the great work!
These are the best 3d print videos on youtube hands down. Comparing things that actually matter
Thanks! :)
Could you please make a video about modifying the tensioners for the Q1 Pro, so that we too can enjoy the improvements? :) (the ones willing to try it, at least)
Appreciate the more in depth look at print quality! This is one of the first reviews I have seen actually quantify several small issues with the Q1 Pro. So far, adding up all the results I have seen from reviews and people I know who have the printer, the overall printing capability and quality is still great. I think it's probably the best overall bang for buck printer, and hopefully they'll even improve it as Qidi is known to do.
Thanks. To be honest their X -... 3 printers were a disaster when they launched. They improved them a lot since, but Q1 PRO is a quite decent step forward. Of course, it comes with signature QIDI jankyness, especially the low-quality outer plastic of the printer and other weird decisions that could have been easily avoided. It is definitely a printer for more advanced users who know what they're doing and can take the most advantage of the value it provides for enclosed printing.
Would you say this is a good first 3d printer? If you were new all things considered what would be the data points you'd be focused on. I have learned if, nothing else, there's a software war waging making it hard for newbs to get closer to the truth regarding reviews etc
@@hobonickel840 I think this is a great first 3D printer overall. Certainly easier to setup and get good quality prints with than many options. Also quite affordable and there are already printable mods available for it. If you think you'll be interested in printing more advanced filaments in the future like nylon, this is great. As for the software, this still runs Klipper and will get updates even if it isn't vanilla firmware. As a beginner, you wouldn't really worry about that until a bit down the road anyways, but this doesn't fundamentally break or limit the printer.
Thank you for this comparison! A small question: The model for the "cooling performance test", where can I find it, please?
Video description, there is the link for the files to STLs and all settings.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVEThank you!
Awesome video. This is pretty much exactly what I wanted to know!
Hi, I added a quick fix for the 5M Pro so it fully turns on without having to press the front button. Works perfectly via smart plug now
Hey, can you post a link? I will unblock it if YT blocks it.
Glad I went with a P1S a couple weeks ago. Been crazy happy with its perfect layer line consistency.
I did the cooling test, the q1 pro perform better than P1S， did you set the same slicer setting？
Yes, for all the printers I use the same setting and the same filament - docs.google.com/document/d/1WB8E50J8cNI-7sOTPo29jMURcsnwgRFX Just keep in mind that heatbed temperature affects the cooling efficiency. So if you print at 50C, the results will be better.
Q1 PRO has ~8K RPM 5015 fan, while P1S has ~9K RPM 5015 fan.
P1S fan has a way better directed air flow to the nozzle, Q1 PRO is nowhere as good.
Excellent videos as always!
Thanks :)
Please make more Qidi Tech Q1 pro videos sir
Good reviews, testing and analysis. 👋
Thanks! 👍
I got a Q1 Pro the other day and I really like it so far! I really appreciate this comparison and wanted to mention the reason I got the q1 pro instead of the other options is because the p1s is just way more expensive, and the flash forge has a smaller build area and locked down software. I have definitely noticed some of the jankiness, but overall I think it's a pretty good printer especially for the price i paid ($450 USD). QIDI support is also fantastic, they answer questions quickly and from what I've seen they provide a lot of help with hardware issues as well, like replacement parts. Thankfully I haven't had to contact them for anything yet, but I like knowing that if something breaks I can get it sorted out with them.
I am genuinely curious though, whether anyone has any major reasons not covered in this video that I should return this printer and get something else. I have 30 days to return it and want whats best for my money! Thanks
My first impressions of Q1 PRO were poor as my experience with their X-...3 printers were horrible and it seemed it would be the same with the new one. But the more I used and tested the more I liked it as the improvement was significant, especially for the bed leveling performance.
I am quite critical of the printers and try to provide all the problems rather than talk about the positives that you should expect from any of the printers like these.
The only thing I forgot to mention is that a significant amount of heat in the chamber leaks into the electronics compartment. So if you will be using a printer to constantly print high-temp stuff you should try sealing the gaps for better efficiency.
About QIDI support, you are 100% correct. They provide a very competent and generous support. Plus there are also things you can print and improve the printer wiki.qidi3d.com/en/Q1-Pro/Other/Components
At the end of the day, it always depends on what purpose you are buying a 3D printer. Do you want to tinker with it? Do you want just to print? What materials do you want to print the most? and etc. Also, it is unreasonable to expect that a $450 printer would be as good as $700 one, you know.
I personally, am sealing my Q1 PRO and will be printing engineering materials. While my K1 printers collect dust because they do not offer anything better than P1S... :D So...
Hi, what are the dimensions of the extra spring tensioners? possible to get STL?
Hey, sure drive.google.com/drive/folders/1peB2JGXXPHaYni6esnecBnO7-dD4bT5m?usp=sharing
Just be aware that this is not a suggested method. Ideally, QIDI should send beefier springs.
Added them to my qidi x max 3. Ran input shaping again and got a 1k increase in acceleration!
Does the X-Max 3 uses the identical tensioning system?
@@DIYPERSPECTIVEAs far as I can tell they are the same. Both have the automatic tensioners.
Excellent content, very helpful qand detailed, thanks very much
Glad it was helpful!
Nice! What is the name of this model of the box with latches?
This one www.printables.com/model/761101-snaplock-storage-boxes
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE thanks!
I just received Q1 Pro and it's my second printer after Ender 3 V2 Neo. So when you started looking closer at all the deficiencies, I panicked a little wondering whether I did the right thing ;) All in all thank you for putting in the work to show the differences between those printers and providing actual numbers. By the way, I wonder whether using copper/brass nozzle on Q1 Pro instead of the bi-metallic (stock) one would improve the flow.
Nah, it's the correct choice, especially since it'll truly help with printing out parts for the inevitable Voron or other DIY printer you'll be making down the road!
@greengohm As janky as Q1 Pro feels in some areas it still prints better than K1 series printers. As for the max flow, I doubt you will see any noticable improvement as copper nozzle with hardened steel tip is the best of both worlds. You could try brass CHT clone nozzles for QIDI that you can find on AliExpress. Or the genuine Bondtech V6 CHT + adapter for V6 nozzles on QIDI printers from Ali.
In my experience, the biggest problem with the stock "bi-metal" nozzle is clogs. Couple that with no clog/jam detection and if a long print clogs/jams, you cook the filament in the nozzle and might as well throw it in the trash. Very disappointing, on top of all the other janky things noted in the video.
my q1 pro is coming. Is there any way you so how to calibrate the printer to its performance?
I mean it performs quite well overall for the price. You should print PLA with lower bed temps like 50-55C for better cooling as the PEI plate has great layer adhesion and you shouldn't use too high accelerations or use a more aggressive input shaper like EI, that is pretty much it.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVEwhat is input shaper EI?
Would definetly want to see more videos about the 5M. How would you compare the print quality of 5M vs Bambu A1 ?
You can watch my Bambu A1 review, most of the tests and filaments I use are always the same, so you can easily compare. Pure print quality and speed wise A5M Pro is superior because it is CoreXY. The best choice always depends on what you want from a 3D printer.
A5M pro user here(I love my printer). One downside is when your hotend/nozzle get clogged. I was using some Stronghero pla and it kept clogging my nozzles. I decided to disconnect the copper hotend from the nozzle by unthreading it. When/if you do that the wires that run into your quick connect break loose and you will no longer be able to use them as the plastic shroud covering the nozzle tip is the connect point. I found this out on my .4/.6 nozzle. Lost them both. Not a Flashforge issue so much as a user issue, but nice to know all the same as the nozzles are $40 each for me to replace(which is fine because I wanted to grab a .8mm nozzle also so instead I just grabbed all 4). Also ASA with the .6 gets some ugly artifacts unless I'm at 260 on the hotend.
Thanks for the video I was looking at getting both the Qidi and Bambu printers but was having difficulty deciding if I wanted to. Now I want them both. I appreciate the information.
I'm tempted to jump on the early qidi deal, I need to upgrade from my OG ender 3
In my opinion, Q1 PRO > K1 Series when it comes to the pure value you get.
The most complete no-nonsense comparison of the printer's capabilities so far. Excellent evaluate of the prospective market of each unit. To be fair the reverse polarity is not a QIDI issue, yes they could implement a switching circuit to check polarity. It's not their place to correct terrible practices. Looking at you Shore power.
Thanks. I think it is the QIDI issue because you can touch the fins with the fingers or other objects in your hands like a wet cleaning napkin. If there would be a longer cover with more thins it would solve the issue. If your printer can harm people no matter where they live, it is the issue of a responsible company. That is my thinking on this. :)
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE QIDI have released an official cover for users to print if they wish.
The heater is completely safe, the same as any other space heater, plus in the US all garages have GFCI plugs or you can convert any plug to a GFCI if someone intentionally touches the fins with a thin metal object. (fingers don't fit) In Europe, almost all homes have GFCI Circuit Breakers if you don't just add one if you have micro fingers and want to play with sparks
Nope its there issue, bcuz they leave it in the chamber. Go dc if you cant design a safe product
I appreciate these videos. However, I do question the validity of the cooling tests. We have no idea what temperature the filament is when it leaves the nozzle. It was shown earlier that the P1S underextrudes at lower flow rates and to a greater degree than the other two. So, I would guess the P1S’s actual extrusion temp is lower than the other two. Then there is differences in thermistors, hotend material, and distance between thermistor and nozzle.
If you would truly appreciate it, you would test yourself these points before you raise validity concerns, might be surprised what the outcome are. General assumptions a lot of the time are wrong in 3D printing. Every thing you listed makes so little difference that I don't know why I even bother responding, lol.
'Z-hop type: Spiral' is an Orca Slicer setting. New version of Klipper is not necessary.
I double-checked and yes, you are correct. Unfortunately, you will be flooded with // Unknown command:"G17" messages in your terminal which is really annoying.
YAY! I had no idea FlashForge finally put out wireless printing on the new Orca release. Or, I assume, it was just the fine people working on Orca....
I've printed so much on that printer over the weekend. Now I know I didn't have to keep going back and forth with the Flash Drives. Pun intended!
P.S. How much trouble would it be to throw a Big Tree Tech board into the Adventurer to get stock Klipper? Worth it to me. I just only know PC's. Nothing about 3D printer boards...
I am pretty sure Flashforge themselves had nothing to do with it. As the functionality was created by iherbak github.com/iherbak/OrcaSlicer and SoftFever implemented the support in his official Orca Slicer. :)
Even I personally wouldn't try it, too many things to be worried about. :D
Love my Flashforge 5M (non pro) and I only paid £300. Very impressive machine and it beats the Creality K1 in print quality, less noise and more reliability. Would definitely buy another one especially at half the price of the P1S
At least from the pictures it seems that 5M is just striped down version of 5M Pro, with the same motion system. It is like P1P vs P1S probably. If that's the case regular 5M value is just insane. :)
I love my flashforge 5m pro compared to my stress Creality cr10s pro. It just works. When I saw a dad picked up 2 K1 max at microcenter for 2 daughters I cringe.
Чувак! Это оч крутой обзор! Спасибо! Лучший!
2:13 Please consider getting the proper mics to measure plastics. They are more expensive but are tuned to not squish it and will give a more accurate measurement. :)
Don't worry, it is not hard to measure consistently if you have enough practice. :) The hardest part is not how hard you squeeze but rather aligning the part perpendicularly in the micrometer. In the future, I probably will make some sort of jig so that the process will be faster.
Would you ever give away one of those printers that are collecting dust? Would save me a lot of money lol
Min 8:37 There are 2 A5M PRO benchies and none P1S's
Sorry, it was an text error. The P1S Benchy is on the right side.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Yeah, no worries. I was just giving a heads up. Maybe you could add an annotation or something to clarify that point. Anyway, not a big deal at all. I really enjoyed the video! Keep up the great work.
I wish TH-cam allowed to do that... They for some reason disabled the that feature. I will try adding a pop-up card. Thanks :)
Honestly, after I've watched dozens of videos about Q1 Pro, the print quality in your video is the worst. I'm not sure what went wrong with it.😅😅😅
Maybe because I print things that don't hide the flaws of the printers? :P
They probably messed with the profiles.
Makers mise did a lot of test prints and got good results witch complex geometry. There was a really nice print of a thin walled abs spiral propeller too...@@DIYPERSPECTIVE
Okay but like of course your flow is gonna be more limited when you run PLA at only 205C on a top speed benchy
It is Sunlu META PLA, not regular PLA.
Just emailed Qidi to cancel my Q1 order.. I didn't realize it was this janky. I'm gonna get a P1S instead.
QIDI jankyness mostly come from the things that aren't related to the print quality. But to be fair it is way cheaper. If you known your way around with 3d printers Q1 Pro offers a lot of value for enclosed printing.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE That ringing is so bad though 😬
If you don't want to do any tinkering - yes it is bad. P1S with E3D Obxidian high flow nozzle is probably the best print quality you can get without going too insane on the price. It is so hard to advise what to get because it always depends a lot on individual things.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Definitely don't mind tinkering, but how smoothly can you actually get the Q1 to print walls? Those artifacts are pretty bad 💀
Even with EI shaper, most of those accels are pretty rough. The part cooling too 🫠
I mean, you saw the comparison, but remember that it is with the worst lighting angle and with filament that shows the difference the best. As I said it depends on what you looking for from the printer, Q1 PRO offers the value option to print engineering materials and you won't be printing those crazy fast anyway. If I were looking to buy with my money and it was my single printer I would save up and go for the P1S because it does almost everything great. And when you have a reliable and good 3D printer then you can look for cheaper printers to tinker, mod, and make them more specialty ones. Hopefully, it helps to decide.
It’s not that ideal for the A5MP to get the kipper web interface, because they totally cheaped out on the main board and only has 128MB of memory… yikes
it is very much possible i have mainsail running on my AD5M
Heres where you lost ALL CREDIBILITY in your review: You kept saying negatives about the 5M Pro not having klipper access which is 100% false as it DOES have fluid interface via PC. You also NEVER MENTION that P1S has ZERO interface of Klipper at all. Not a single complaint from you about that. Your whole review is just another skewed review to support Bambu.
Stock 5M Pro doesn't have a web Klipper interface, despite it running Klipper. If you modded yours that is a different thing.
Meanwhile, Bambu doesn't even run Klipper, how the f... it would be reasonable to complain about it not having a Klipper interface? ;D The main reason to have the Klipper interface on consumer 3D printers that run Klipper is for the ability to fix problems with the printers in the firmware because a lot of the time companies do not fully know what they are doing. If a printer just works and I don't need fixing stuff I just press "Upload and Print" and never look at any web interface.
If you truly think that my reviews are skewed I hope this is the last one you are watching. Good luck finding other reviews that actually test the 3D print quality performance. :)
Feels paid by bambu lol
You are probably new to the channel if you say that. You seem like one of those conspiracy guys who believes that Bambu pays for reviews and that's why their printers are so popular and not because they actually made a great 3D printer ;D
without a 220V PTC you cant get a sufficient heat input