Are Cantilever 3D PRINTERS still VIABLE!? (KP3S, Prusa Mini, etc.)
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👉🏻 Are CANTILEVER 3D PRINTERS still viable in 2023 AND BEYOND? Well, this is the question I will be answering in this video and providing a detailed comparison of the prints. And what better way to do that than modifying the KP3S PRO cantilever 3d printer with dual z linear rails.
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📋 RELATED ITEMS TO THE VIDEO (Amazon Affiliate)
- KP3S PRO amzn.to/40xzEIn
- KGT linear rails s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DB1...
- ANYCUBIC PLA amzn.to/3W3MmwE
📷 VIDEO SHOT ON:
- Fuji X-S10 amzn.to/3Zar9BW
📢 OTHER MENTIONED THINGS:
STL Files of the MOD www.printables.com/model/4331...
🕗 TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 - The problem
01:07 - Causes of the problem
02:42 - Stock ACC/JERK
03:55 - Higher ACC/JERK
04:28 - Affect of soft rubber feet
04:57 - Conclusion/Suggestions
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Twitter: / diyperspective
Instagram: / diyperspective
#3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprint - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
the full circle upgrade
I have only owned one cantilever printer, a RatRig VMinion. It is my favorite printer for low layer height small form factor detailed prints. Naturally being a RatRig it's been run with Klipper from the day I finished building it. Funny thing it that it does it's best at up to 70 mm/sec or 100 to 130 mm/sec, VFA shows up right around 90, must be hitting some resonance. Interesting video. Stay well!
Same here ! I was just taking the klipper route ... and finally changed my mind : thanks !
Klipper is great, but you can still get quality prints if you slow down things.
The quality of these videos are great!
Trying my best, thank you ;)
I think about modifying a Prusa mini. The problem there in my opinion is the belt tensioner of the x-axis, as the x-axis is made of two rods with a plastic part for the idler at the end. You adjust belt tension by turning two normal screws. This means the lenght of x-axis variates a bit when adjusting the belt tension. So in adition to the extra z also modification of x is needed.
But still it might be an interesting project.
I love that channel! Whats the cube you're printing off? Looks like a good benchmark test
Thanks, here you go www.printables.com/model/293137-gjb-test-cube
Hello , very good inf i have the kp3s since they came out , now with the Bambulab A1 the game change about the speed but for the price i would prefer a bigger machine .
Like the Ender 3 v3 se that is very cheap and can print at 250mm or Neptune 4 even faster .
I really like your design. i thought about it but don't know how to make the z axis the best. Thank you very much. I printing the parts and will assemble it shortly.
Well, hopefully, you have modding experience, it is not an easy mod.
Intersting stuff, as usual.
Well I think about putting my KP3s into an Ender 3 frame and allready converted the frame to the belted z-axis mod. Still not sure if it it really worth all the effords and required time to develop and print adapters...
Try linear advance and input shaping or just go for klipper , i do that😊
Dropping in my two cents a year later.
What is there against printing outer walls first and only lowering acceleration for those? I already did that on an older printer.
I still have and use my original Ender 2 cantilever printer and despite having many printers and even one that cost 18 times the cost of the Ender 2 this Ender 2 is my most reliable printer, I can just send it a file and dont even bother to watch the first layer go down, it just works, I have thought of adding linear rails to it but considering I have it set up absolutely perfect I dont want to risk spoiling it, it will get some new POM wheels eventualy and I have already swapped all the fans for quieter ones and added a part cooling fan (yes they came without part cooling as PLA had only just become popular) and have a spring steel magnetic textured PEI bed on it. whenever I have a part that will fit on this machine I use it despite having a printer that will print 4 times faster, I just love using the Ender 2!
uwu
I think a lot of people don't understand that no matter the printer you use with high speeds print rate success rates drops. So I would rather have a print that has a 99% success rate at 8 hours than 90% at 5 hours for example. Plus small 3d printers are so cute! :3
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE You hit the nail on the head!
I like the idea of cantilevers as good enough solutions: small, light, cheap. Still Klipper is good even with slower speeds, especially compared to native firmware with no 'preheat PLA' command?
I do like how it looks with two rails, there is that completeness of square frames.
Completely agree with the idea. I see no reason why Klipper would be worse at slower speeds. I almost never use preheat commands, I always do it manually or write a sequence of the heating process in slicer.
Yea, I love the look of it! :)
Can i try it on my kp3s? (NO KP3S PRO)
Very interesting !
Yup! :)
Two things: What if the bed (y axis) was isolated (independent) from the print head (X and Z motion). No transfer of vibration. What if you used a dual rail on a single Z column.
1. I would love to see your 3d printer design of this because maybe it would be interesting just to test it but there is no practical value in this.
2. I used two MGN9H rails on one 2040 profile in my LR + Ballscrew Z-axis video, it was way more rigid, but like I said at this end of the video it doesn't make any sense to beef up one side when you can completely eliminate the wobble by using rails from both.
i was planning on doing this myself lol
FIRST! haha
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE You beat me to it!
If we can easily upgrade to dual z rail on cantilevers it makes it even betters starter printers for beginners in cost I think
Usually, the most cost-effective printers are those that you don't need to upgrade. Companies can source parts way cheaper in bulk. The problem is that most companies are very incompetent in designing good 3d printers.
does it jam without the second screw on the Z axis?
what?
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE I meant that... is the second carriage independent from the axis and she can jam?
Why would it jam? Maybe with preloaded type of linear rail it would because that end of the x axis is so light, but I used a clearance type of rail that slides very smoothly.
Im thinking of creating a similar mod for my prusa mini.. it seems intruiging.
It's a great mod for higher speeds and accels, if you can make it.
Vou need to test the V-Minion by Ratrig
It is a cool 3d printer but $500 for a cantilever is a lot IMO. You can buy a decent 300x300 CoreXY for that much.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE the price may be a little spicy, but let me tell you, your down points on the video are not present on the V-Minion
I completely trust you that it almost doesn't have any wobble and print quality is great. I mean, it uses MGN15 rail + 3060 profile vs MGN12 rail + 2040 profile on the KP3S and the print head most likely are lighter. It is a premium well designed cantilever after all.
try on my kp3s ....
Are you willing to share your Design?
I already shared the STL files at www.printables.com/model/433170-kp3s-pro-s1-dual-rail-z-axis-mod
But Fusion360 files are only at Patreon www.patreon.com/posts/kp3s-pro-dual-x-80533284
Вот и получается ender 3)))))
Food poisoning from China (the field is in Russian territory) continues.
The cause is (guessed to be ergot fungus in black ears of wheat) Thank you for the fun video.
CANTILEVER dead?
ALL bedslingers are dead.
Currently, neither cantilever nor all bed slingers are dead, that is a fact. The only people I see saying that are the Bambu fanboys enchanted by seeing high printing speeds for the first time lol.
My kps3 pro (like the one in the video) actually prints better and faster than my ender 5 plus (cartesian, not corexy).
As an entry level printer a cantiliver can be very good i think.