Hello and thank you, installed Orca a few days ago after being fed up with the way Cura chooses to print a model, meaning it will start printing an area then skip over to another smaller section instead of finishing the mass area then going back to the small corners or whatever as I think would be logical. same as you I tried all the different patterns, monotopic on / off with no success. So, the other day I set up Orca for my Sovol Sv01, left everything at default and Bam 1st print right out of the gate was magical and moves were logical and not Sh*t - Stupid, plus the number of failed prints I tossed and day's trying to get Cura to behave. (at one point I even re-flashed the firmware thinking it may have been corrupted in some way) Anyway, thank you again for sharing your experience, time and knowledge with us all... We appreciate the teachable moments.
G'day m8,..... I just started to use orca just yesterday an this vid helped to find certain tabs to access, im in the process of building the Omni Display case this will be my second one im bulding, as i built the first with Cura. i then jumped over to Prusa Slicer and now im here, hopeing to learn and optimise Orca to build a bigger Display case. Cheers ol son from Downunder🙃
Orca seems amazing, but the Ender 3 Pro profile that comes with it seems to have been done in a rush. I really wish I could understand all their wiping features. It has more options, but it seems harder to tune retraction for those of us with a bowden setup if compared to Cura.
Good day Slicers. Im new and Love 3d Printing. Im deffiently trying this Orca Slicer out. I been using Craftware but it is not working properly for me. I will let yous know how it goes.
I noticed the same when testing with my Ender 3. Flow calibration, tolerance testing, were all valuable, but when I ran the PA test the tower for me it looked the same all the way up the tower. I know that PA testing is the Klipper version so found a great site to generate the gcode to mimic the linear advance calibration for Marlin, but similar results. I have just received my Bambu A1 and plan to complete the PA tests on that to see of there is a benefit.
thankyou for the info, just a note on the bottom surface. if you are struggling to fill the corners why not use concentric as the pattern? this will just offset the outer boundary inwards and provide a very good surface. I love Ideamaker and still think this slicer is hard to beat. that said slicers will naturally continue to evolve. Please keep us updated on orca improvements Thanks.
Thanks Paul. Gosh, I think I've tried every pattern on this model. On this particular model the concentric first layer actually leaves more gaps for some reason, and visible even in the preview. It's an ongoing process for sure. I agree Ideamaker is still hard to beat. I'm seeing a few features in Orca I wish were there.
hi i have downloaded orca for my ender 3 v3 ke. Ive managed to add my printer to it but when i try to add my wifi it wont do the test, it says something about installing something called octoprint. please can someone tell me what this is. Thanks
I tried Orca and it SUCKED ... needed to move to another slicer to get the Max Flow Limitation capability... Tried Orca and got so much stringing it was ridiculous... couldn't even get a decent retraction test... stringing EVEYWHERE... Moved over to Prusa slicer and WOW! HUGE IMPROVEMENT!!! WAY better than Cura or Orca... Right outta the gate the print turned out PERFECT FIRST GO... No contest... at least for me...
Thanks for the video, I will try Orca slicer to see if it benefits my workflow. By the way, if you do about 10 prints a day, at 2:14 minutes a print, you might consider a p1p or other fast printer. It will give you some time to sleep. 😀
I have an ender 3, 235x235 bed and the slicer will not avoid the clips in the front and the back holding the bed, is there a way to set an offset to avoid like 5 to 10 mm to avoid the front and back. Please help.
Next to your printer name in the top-left click the edit presets. On the Basic Information tab you'll want to play with "excluded bed area" field. You need to specify the 4 corners of the the bed area you want to exclude expressed in XxY, XxY, etc.. for example... you can copy/paste this into the field then slice a print and you see the excluded area in the slice preview. 0x0, 200x0, 200x28, 0x28
You need to help us with more complex parts and Orca Support setting, I used all the defaults on a Hot End Fan housing and pulling the support out destroyed my part. I have seen a few videos on Orca Support but they are way too thin to be useful. I really need to engineer practical, effective and easy to remove support. Can you cover this topic in light of Orcas potential and help use better use and appreciate the slicer. Thank You, Dennis CR 10S Pro V1 highly modified. Klipper on Pi 4B with Mainsail and Orca. MicroSwiss Hot End and Direct Drive.
Im trying to figure out how to configure a original Ender 3 i have here. I have no plans to update to klipper, i use a factory updated marlin 2.1+filament runout sensor activated instead. Any info on how to create a profile? Or refer me to any creator that has added that profile to the OrcaSlicer software? Thanks in advance!
You should be good to use the Creality Ender 3 V2 profile, even though you have an original. I'm in the same boat. There isn't a profile for the original Ender 3 so I just used the V2 profile for my printers. Works great so far.
Uh oh. What's the problem? May shoot me some screenshots of your settings or better yet pick a time on my calendar and we can do a zoom call... calendly.com/fischer3d/1-on-1
Unfortunately I do not. I think your best bet might be to select the cog wheel at the top left-ish of the orca screen in the Printer header, select "Klipper" under custom printer. Then you can input the rest of the printer specs from there as far as nozzle, extruder, build volume, etc..
Klipper is another flavor of firmware for printers. Typically on many off-the-shelf printers like creality ender3, cr-10, etc.. they come loaded with Marlin Firmware. The Sonic Pad is loaded with Klipper and essentially when connected to the printer, overwrites the printer's use of Marlin in favor of Klipper. So, if you weren't using the Sonic pad connected to your S1, you'd select Marlin instead of Klipper (or just select the default Ender 3 S1 Profile in Orca). Some printers have it installed by default now. I think the new Creality K1 is klipper since it prints so much faster.
sure thing. I have some baseline profiles here. feel free to grab and tweak as needed. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1asXqxxOT8zgujH91NitEE88Xzcx3sHWx?usp=sharing
It's located in the Printer presets. Left side of the screen, under Printer. Hit the "edit presets" icon next to the name of your printer profile. Second tab is the Machine G-Code.
@@fischer3d thank you. I use different profiles with different materials that have different offsets. I set my nozzle as close to bed as possible during leveling then adjust each material. Hopefully they will add that down the road, to make it easier.
Gotcha. Makes sense. Instead of the printer settings, in the filament settings screen for each type of filament, you can click on the Advanced tab and set a starting G-Code for z-offset as a possible option.
Great question, but I'm not positive. If your Sonic pad is connected to your local network you might be able to. Next to your printer name in the top-ish left corner hit the wifi umbrella. You should be able to select Octo/Klipper and type in the IP address and connection details of the sonic pad. Also, across the very top you should have "Prepare, Preview, Device, Project, Calibration" Select "Device". There is a nice tutorial on how to connect. let me know how it goes.
@@fischer3d I'm going to check on that! Thanks so much. I'm not sure how I feel yet about orca... I don't see all the settings like I did in Curs... So it makes me nervous... But as I dig around I find the settings. It's just a settings are scattered all over the place... Not sure how I feel about that
@@fischer3d Yup! Your the man...worked like a charm! Now I just gotta get into using this more than cura. Well see how it all goes. Thanks so much bud!
Hello and thank you, installed Orca a few days ago after being fed up with the way Cura chooses to print a model, meaning it will start printing an area then skip over to another smaller section instead of finishing the mass area then going back to the small corners or whatever as I think would be logical. same as you I tried all the different patterns, monotopic on / off with no success.
So, the other day I set up Orca for my Sovol Sv01, left everything at default and Bam 1st print right out of the gate was magical and moves were logical and not Sh*t - Stupid, plus the number of failed prints I tossed and day's trying to get Cura to behave. (at one point I even re-flashed the firmware thinking it may have been corrupted in some way)
Anyway, thank you again for sharing your experience, time and knowledge with us all... We appreciate the teachable moments.
I switched from Cura to Orca slicer 3 months ago and haven't looked back. I'm running v 1.6.4-beta 3 right now and love it. Thanks for the review.
G'day m8,..... I just started to use orca just yesterday an this vid helped to find certain tabs to access, im in the process of building the Omni Display case this will be my second one im bulding, as i built the first with Cura. i then jumped over to Prusa Slicer and now im here, hopeing to learn and optimise Orca to build a bigger Display case. Cheers ol son from Downunder🙃
Orca seems amazing, but the Ender 3 Pro profile that comes with it seems to have been done in a rush. I really wish I could understand all their wiping features. It has more options, but it seems harder to tune retraction for those of us with a bowden setup if compared to Cura.
Good day Slicers. Im new and Love 3d Printing. Im deffiently trying this Orca Slicer out. I been using Craftware but it is not working properly for me. I will let yous know how it goes.
I have the same problem with Ideamaker I doesn't fill all the gaps. I will give Orca slicer a try. Thanks.
downloaded it yesterday looks promising
Orca has some calibration tests for things like pressure advanced. I ran the test but didnt see a change.
I noticed the same when testing with my Ender 3. Flow calibration, tolerance testing, were all valuable, but when I ran the PA test the tower for me it looked the same all the way up the tower. I know that PA testing is the Klipper version so found a great site to generate the gcode to mimic the linear advance calibration for Marlin, but similar results.
I have just received my Bambu A1 and plan to complete the PA tests on that to see of there is a benefit.
thankyou for the info, just a note on the bottom surface. if you are struggling to fill the corners why not use concentric as the pattern? this will just offset the outer boundary inwards and provide a very good surface.
I love Ideamaker and still think this slicer is hard to beat. that said slicers will naturally continue to evolve.
Please keep us updated on orca improvements
Thanks.
Thanks Paul. Gosh, I think I've tried every pattern on this model. On this particular model the concentric first layer actually leaves more gaps for some reason, and visible even in the preview. It's an ongoing process for sure. I agree Ideamaker is still hard to beat. I'm seeing a few features in Orca I wish were there.
hi i have downloaded orca for my ender 3 v3 ke. Ive managed to add my printer to it but when i try to add my wifi it wont do the test, it says something about installing something called octoprint. please can someone tell me what this is. Thanks
Thanks, you convinced me to try it an I think I'm in love.💜 Btw, what is that part a part of?
I tried Orca and it SUCKED ... needed to move to another slicer to get the Max Flow Limitation capability... Tried Orca and got so much stringing it was ridiculous... couldn't even get a decent retraction test... stringing EVEYWHERE... Moved over to Prusa slicer and WOW! HUGE IMPROVEMENT!!! WAY better than Cura or Orca... Right outta the gate the print turned out PERFECT FIRST GO... No contest... at least for me...
Thanks for the update
Thanks for the video, I will try Orca slicer to see if it benefits my workflow.
By the way, if you do about 10 prints a day, at 2:14 minutes a print, you might consider a p1p or other fast printer. It will give you some time to sleep. 😀
Trust me, I'm thinking about it. My enders run all day. Would be nice to knock one out every 30 minutes.
I sliced the identicle file with the same settings in Bambu and Orca. Bambu 7 hrs, Orca...11.5 hrs.
I have an ender 3, 235x235 bed and the slicer will not avoid the clips in the front and the back holding the bed, is there a way to set an offset to avoid like 5 to 10 mm to avoid the front and back. Please help.
Next to your printer name in the top-left click the edit presets. On the Basic Information tab you'll want to play with "excluded bed area" field. You need to specify the 4 corners of the the bed area you want to exclude expressed in XxY, XxY, etc.. for example... you can copy/paste this into the field then slice a print and you see the excluded area in the slice preview. 0x0, 200x0, 200x28, 0x28
I'm not quite good enough yet, but I wouldn't mind trying to build a profile for my k1 for orca.
You need to help us with more complex parts and Orca Support setting, I used all the defaults on a Hot End Fan housing and pulling the support out destroyed my part. I have seen a few videos on Orca Support but they are way too thin to be useful. I really need to engineer practical, effective and easy to remove support. Can you cover this topic in light of Orcas potential and help use better use and appreciate the slicer. Thank You, Dennis CR 10S Pro V1 highly modified. Klipper on Pi 4B with Mainsail and Orca. MicroSwiss Hot End and Direct Drive.
Have you had a chance to check out this one yet? th-cam.com/video/i6D-JNu6wE8/w-d-xo.html
Im trying to figure out how to configure a original Ender 3 i have here. I have no plans to update to klipper, i use a factory updated marlin 2.1+filament runout sensor activated instead. Any info on how to create a profile? Or refer me to any creator that has added that profile to the OrcaSlicer software? Thanks in advance!
You should be good to use the Creality Ender 3 V2 profile, even though you have an original. I'm in the same boat. There isn't a profile for the original Ender 3 so I just used the V2 profile for my printers. Works great so far.
TYVM on your quick answer and care. Greets from Villa Mercedes, San Luis, Argentina.
Help, i have a problem with my first layer in orca slicer but in cura the problem dissapears.
Uh oh. What's the problem? May shoot me some screenshots of your settings or better yet pick a time on my calendar and we can do a zoom call... calendly.com/fischer3d/1-on-1
do you have a profile for sonic pad for ender 3 s1 pro?
Unfortunately I do not. I think your best bet might be to select the cog wheel at the top left-ish of the orca screen in the Printer header, select "Klipper" under custom printer. Then you can input the rest of the printer specs from there as far as nozzle, extruder, build volume, etc..
what is the difference between selecting Marlin and Klipper?@@fischer3d
Klipper is another flavor of firmware for printers. Typically on many off-the-shelf printers like creality ender3, cr-10, etc.. they come loaded with Marlin Firmware. The Sonic Pad is loaded with Klipper and essentially when connected to the printer, overwrites the printer's use of Marlin in favor of Klipper.
So, if you weren't using the Sonic pad connected to your S1, you'd select Marlin instead of Klipper (or just select the default Ender 3 S1 Profile in Orca).
Some printers have it installed by default now. I think the new Creality K1 is klipper since it prints so much faster.
thank you so much man ! I appreciate all the content you provide! wish you all the best from Brazil !@@fischer3d
Nice! 🤙🏻
Would you be able to share your profile for the slicer ?
sure thing. I have some baseline profiles here. feel free to grab and tweak as needed. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1asXqxxOT8zgujH91NitEE88Xzcx3sHWx?usp=sharing
@@fischer3d sweet thanks bud
g code machine (start and end) pls?
It's located in the Printer presets. Left side of the screen, under Printer. Hit the "edit presets" icon next to the name of your printer profile. Second tab is the Machine G-Code.
Does it work on mac?
I haven't tried specifically on mac, but there is a dmg in the assets for download.... github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases/
yep... I just started using it. so far so good.
Is there a way to do a z offset on orca?
I'll keep looking, but I'm not seeing one. I think you'd have to set it in the starting g-code in the printer settings.
@@fischer3d thank you. I use different profiles with different materials that have different offsets. I set my nozzle as close to bed as possible during leveling then adjust each material. Hopefully they will add that down the road, to make it easier.
Gotcha. Makes sense. Instead of the printer settings, in the filament settings screen for each type of filament, you can click on the Advanced tab and set a starting G-Code for z-offset as a possible option.
anyone slicer profile for lithophane
Using my ender 3 S1 pro and sonic pad slicing in Cura. Can Orca send straight to the sonic pad like cura with moon wraker?
Great question, but I'm not positive. If your Sonic pad is connected to your local network you might be able to. Next to your printer name in the top-ish left corner hit the wifi umbrella. You should be able to select Octo/Klipper and type in the IP address and connection details of the sonic pad.
Also, across the very top you should have "Prepare, Preview, Device, Project, Calibration" Select "Device". There is a nice tutorial on how to connect.
let me know how it goes.
@@fischer3d I'm going to check on that! Thanks so much. I'm not sure how I feel yet about orca... I don't see all the settings like I did in Curs... So it makes me nervous... But as I dig around I find the settings. It's just a settings are scattered all over the place... Not sure how I feel about that
@@fischer3d Yup! Your the man...worked like a charm! Now I just gotta get into using this more than cura. Well see how it all goes. Thanks so much bud!
@@fischer3d Just sent a file to print...works perfect