Quiet 12V NOCTUA Fan on 24V Creality Ender 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ม.ค. 2019
- Many viewers have asked Chuck to show how to install a Quiet 12V NOCTUA Fan on 24V ENDER3. Chuck shows two options and step by step how to make them work. after watching this video you can decide if the Noctua Fan is what your Creality Ender 3 needs and you'll know how to install it. All in this episode of Filament Friday.
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I appreciate the subtitles as I cannot hear anything in the video through the noise of my 3d printer's fans.
no fucking kidding them thigs are loud
xD
A 7dB difference is about a factor of 4 in sound energy, so it would take 4 Noctua fans running simultaneously to reproduce the stock fan noise. Decibels are not intuitive since they are in a logarithmic scale. 7 db is a considerable difference.
An old trick... attach a string to the end of the wire before pulling it out... the string will be pulled along with the wire....when you're ready to run the new wire back, tie the new wire to the string and pull the string back... wallah! you have threaded the wire home. Love the channel... keep up the good work.
I should have known that I watch the electricians do it at work every day
I know that this comment is 2 years old and all, but do people really say wallah instead of voilà? Because if so that makes me extremely sad
before pulling the fan's leads through the cable wrap, attach a piece of wire/rope/whatever to the end. After pulling this until the connection is through, you can put the new cable on this end and pull the new cable back through the wire wrapping
You can't just worry about the noise. The frequency/pitch is also an issue. I had a computer fan that was quiet but the pitch of the noise drove me nuts. I replaced it with a Noctua fan, about the same decibels but better pitch.
I just did the upgrade and it makes a world of difference, especially with the board fan. I also upgraded the power supply to a better one that has a quieter fan that doesn't run continuously.
I appreciate how thorough you are with your videos. Instead of just sticking a transistor on it and calling it a day, you went through temp/decibel checks and considered long-term safety. Thanks @CHEP
Thank you for this good video. Finally I have bought 2 Noctua 40mm 12V fans and installed one to cool the board and one to cool the extruder. Both 12V fans are connected in series and used the permanent 24V output which is normally used by the extruder fan alone. The voltage is divided equally, each fan is driven by 12V.
This only works if the fans are in sync (same load) and stay that way over time. Most often this is not the case, just because of variance in series production. If one fan gets more resistance over time and draws more power, the other one gets less, and that balance will get worse. If one of the fans dies without shorting out, the other one will die right after.
A lot of people do this with two 12V fans serial in line on a 24V supply, but this is at best a makeshift solution. The better way, and only about 2 USD more expensive, is to install a step-down converter to 12V - and then have no trouble in the future and have a usable 12V rail for other add-ons too.
@@40hup It is actually worse than that. It doesn't matter what the variance in production are they will still be running overvoltage. Fans are not constant impedance devices. As the motor runs its impedance will spike and fall causing the voltage drop across the other fan to do the reverse. The voltage does not get split equally between the two fans but will instead constantly shift between the two. Even if you had two perfectly identical fans running them in series will subject both of them to voltage spikes well outside their tolerances damaging the fans. It will look like it is working in the short term but you are greatly reducing the lives of those fans and whichever one dies first will take the second one with it.
If you attach a piece of string to the wires before you pull them out it makes it easy to pull the new wires back through with the string. No tie wraps needed.
Thanks for this! I just used your process to replace with a 40mm Noctua and LOVE it! My only change was that I installed the buck converter right at the control board and so could just wire it using the existing fan wires. Along with modding the psu with a 92mm Noctua its finally whisper quiet.
Very nice video. I just opened up my Ender 3 box yesterday and decided to watch some videos about add on's. You explained the voltage, wattage, and resistance is plain and easy to understand method. The hand-drawn equations made it look like mu high school math class. You have a new subscriber. Keep broadcasting!!
I did this few weeks ago, except that I used an LM317 that I had at hand. I have my printer in my bedroom where I also work and sleep. I tried 4 different fans in total, and ended up with this Noctua, it is definitely the way to go. My printer is WAY quieter and the fan produces basically no vibrations. I can notice that the Noctua is not as powerful as the stock fan, but the noise reduction is WORTH IT and the airflow is respectable. Also bought other two silent fans from Gelid solutions, for the mainboard and for the PSU (this one is really hard to cope with). This plus having a silent board made my printer bearable.
I like that you checked the temperature inside the heatsink before and after the modification. It showed that there were more consequences to this mod than just the quietening of the fan noise. Thank you!
Recently had the stock fan bearings on one of my Ender 3s fail, thank you for the video about how to replace it! Wanted to go with Noctua since I've had their fans in my PC for years, great video
Hey Chuck. Thanks for all the helpful videos. I was playing with something like you did here and just for fun ran my 24V fan on the 12V output from the buck convertor and it was significantly quieter; quieter even than that Noctua. In my temperature test, with my hotend at 230C, the temp in the chamber went from 57 with the fan at 24V to 62 with the fan at 12V. It doesn't seem like a significant difference and is cheaper than the Noctua. I'll run with it for a bit and see if I have any clogging issues from too much heat but I don't think I will.
You make good points at the end of the video about it being worth it, but one thing to consider: The bearings in those Noctua fans are awesome compared to the ball bearings in the cheap chinesium fans The operating hours expected out of those Noctua fans are about 3x (if not more) than the fans that came with the printer. So, less noise, less vibration, longer life... that's probably a very good thing.
Also, noise level falls off as a direct relation to the square of the distance. Twice the distance means 4 times less sound pressure. The way we perceive sound it takes about 10dB of difference for us to perceive it as being half the volume. At 7dB you're about 2/3's of the way to halving the perceived volume. By lowering the volume that much, now when you are at a reasonable distance away from the printer, you'll have significantly less noise as you move away because of how the volume decays over distance.
So, up close, a 7dB effect might be less than what you were hoping for, but try stepping away 10 or 20 feet. See what you think about the volume at a distance as well. Personally, I am a big fan of fans that don't die because when a fan reaches towards the end of its life it makes increasingly more noise as the bearing starts to decay. Those Noctua bearings are using magnetism to keep them centered.... even when that bearing starts to fail (if it does) it's likely to make a lot less noise than any "regular" fan bearing at its same point in its life.
the best upgrade thank you this made it almost dead silent my fan was broken and now it sounds like nothing
Very cool, thanks for walking us through all the logic and iterations of your process!
Such a nicely made video, man. Info is honest and complete
Chuck, Thank you much for this informative video! I intended to replace my stock fans with the Nochua's, hoping them will be much quieter, though the prices are high (still affordable!) Now I see the minor quietness is at the cost of reduced air-flow, which I can achieve by reducing the voltage to the stock fans easily. The simplest way I can think of is to put a couple rectifiers/diodes in series with fans to reduce the supply voltage, or using pwm using Cura/Merlin settings. It is simply not worth the extra costs and effort to buy these expensive fans! Thanks once again for the great video!
Thank you very much for this interesting and insightful video! I also thought about doing this with my Ender3, and your video helped me to rethink this.
In the end I printed another fan-duct as replacement for the original fans & shield, which utilizes two axial fans (Heatbreak & part cooling) instead of the original 4010 and the axial 4010. Because it leaves the space, I went for 4020 instead of 4010 fans and I also installed a (much cheaper) step-down buck converter 24V -> 12V in my Ender.
Here is the trick to get everything quieter: I still use a 24V fan model for the heatbreak, running at 12V - because it is a 20mm thick fan, it still cools better at 12V with low RPM than the original 10mm thick one at 24V - you can't hear a thing from it, even if you go quite near to it with your ear. It is virtually silent, because the fan of the power adaper is much more noisy in comparison (someday I will go after this fan also...) . The part cooling fan is pwm-controlled by the firmware, but I will not have to get higher than 60% to equal the 100% output from the original radial fan. So it is either quiter with the same cooling power or about as loud as the old one with much much more blowing force on the printed parts. I have to conduct some bridging tests, but this setup is very promising - cool and quiet, or if need be not so silent but very powerful. As a side effect I have now a good 12V rail for other experiments / additions.
So, there is really no need for expensive Noctua fans - I got much cheaper chinese 4020 24V fans of good quality with double ball bearings from alibaba - all in all I spent about 12 Eur / 15 USD - for the buck converter, two fans, the duct-print and some cables and plugs. One Noctua 4010 alone would have cost the same - at least.
You should consider the Noctua A4x20 vs the A4x10. It has higher RPMs, higher static pressure, etc. I'm using one on an E3d V6 on an Ender 3, and it works great. I started out with s 10mm, and like you said, it was a little warmer, but still worked fine, but the 20mm seals the deal. As everyone else has said, the PSU fan is the real nuisance. You can print a new PSU cover though, and put an 80mm Noctua fan in there, and it is absolutely silent. Both of these with the silent board, and you can barely tell the thing is on when it's printing.
Does the A4x20 Noctua fan fit into the stock Ender fan shroud?
@@bymitten1 Definitely not. If you are trying to stick with the stock cover and hotend, then the 10mm is the only option.
@@bkblake01 What fan duct do you have to accommodate the 40mm by 20mm noctua fan? I have got the Sansa BLTouch fan duct which van fit tbe 40mm by 20mm but fair bit of the fan will stick out.
Thank you so much for your honesty and candid review, you deffinatly helped me make a decision Not to buy the fan, lol. I was hoping for a much better result, but I can deal with the noise I guess, 😁👍🏻
Love your videos. Great information and presented clearly. Separately, I was watching a hockey game on TV recently and I thought I saw you in a couple of crowd shots. Then I remembered your surname and it all made sense.
i did the Noctua upgrade to my prusa, and it made a huge positive difference. now that i've done the 2.5 upgrade, prusa included another noctua fan, so it's god that it's now a stock feature.
You want the 40x20, not the 40x10. The 40x10 flows less (due to pressure) then the most stock fans. You can expect some jams.
Yup 4020 is better
But then how to you fit it? Externally on the existing metal bracket, or printing a new bracket?
@@nickgilbert1264 nothing to do. It fits in with original screws. Just the gaurd wont fit back on
@@pascaljean2333 The original screws go into the guard though, so I can't see how that would work. Maybe you don't have the Ender 3?
@@nickgilbert1264 ahhhh so sorry. I had the cr10
Omg I am literally in the process of trying to doing this THANK YOU CHEP :):):) YOU ARE AWESOME!!!!
Considering that sound pressure decibels are scaled logarithmically 7dB decrease is actually pretty significant.
this, 3db less is half the noise.
It’s still running well and it is quiet.
Another excellent video, Chuck! I’m glad you took the time to go through the electronics education, rather than just hooking up some magic bits.
I was hoping for a tutorial on replacing the psu and the motherboard fans with quiet ones but this was still interesting and as always well edited. Thank you
that one is the noisiest fan tho
@@83hjf Really !? With my Ender 3, it's not. sob sob cry cry
Sir, why is it, That EVERY time, I break something on my Ender. There's a video of you, fixing it someway or another :) I accidently put a couple of plyers into the cooling fan, so that's obviously broken. I try googling the size of the fan, and BAM, there you are again. You have been very helpfull and because of you, i'm now a better printer (and technical IT guy)!
My printfarm found all the problems first so I had to fix them. :)
Notes for the impatient: Chep doesn't think its worth it personally, but Noctua is more quiet than stock so if silence is your mission, go ahead. Noctua fans cool well, but keep the hotend about 5 degrees Celsius hotter than stock. They are about 5-7db quieter (10db is normal breathing but idk if this is a helpful comparison here). Use a buck converter. 5:00 shows removing the fan. Use the same screws for stock and Noctua. 6:09 shows the buck converter installed.
Thanks mate! I'm on a mission for quiet or die trying so I'm giving this a rattle.
db is logarithmic, so 10db (the breathing) at the bottom end and 10db at the top end are not the same. Another way to say this is that you can't "add" dbs
Thanks for the help brother! You should have covered how to adjust the voltage on the little board but it's cool! Great vid!
Thank you so much Chep! I was thinking about doing this upgrade but with your thorough testing I'm actually going to hold off. I think my printer is quiet enough considering the extra cost.
Noctua puts a lot of R&D into the baffles on the edge of their fan blades. That is where most of the noise difference comes from. It also means that you can get most of the benefits by transplanting their fan blades onto a different motor instead of having to deal with the voltage differences if you want to.
Thanks a lot, i agree with you it's not really a big upgrade, but i've broke the original one and this noctua was the same price, thanks tho, i could not figure how to mount it without you !
Tip: Hack the fan off of the wires and use the old wires to pull the new ones in.
Appreciate your thoroughness, thank you.
Thanks Chep for the Great Tutorial ;)
You Kept Your Promise.
Another great video, but alas this one is a lot of work for what I consider low gain. Nice to see a bit of EE 101 in the 3D print world as well.
One odd thing, I just purchased an Ender 3 Pro, the manual that came with the unit shows those same terminals on the main board as for Fans, but labels them as +12V & GND. I'm still learning how to print, so the noise level is not an issue. Keep up the good work. Love the channel.
Great video as always. Just make sure that people who don't know as much about decibels that 7db is actually a big difference
I just noticed the 3D printed vice. That's awesome
I put a Noctua on the hotend for my printer, but eventually switched back to the original louder fan. The reason is once my part cooling fan turns on it doesn't matter because it's the loudest part on my printer. The Noctua worked okay, but the louder fan moves more air and keeps my cold zone a little cooler. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have spent the money.
OK so erm, a few notes that come to mind that might improve things some more:
-you need a 40x20 Noctua because it moves less air than the stock 24v ender fan
-you can use a small buck converter to step down to 12v instead of the very big thing CHEP used if you are low on space
-you could solder a connector from one of the additional Noctua cables to the existing ender fan cables at the top for easy fan switching and you won't have this clunky and stiff wire running to the main board.
-The Noctua fan helps a LOT, but all the other fans on the ender are LOUD as well. so if you have them running all at ones you won't hear much of a difference. You can wire up a noctua 40x10 in the electronics box and that should help a lot in combo with the hotend fan change. (be sure to wire it to the same buck as the hotend fan so the electronics box fan is always on. atm it only goes on when the parts cooling fan is running, so the electronics won't have cooling till that thing goes one)
Would wiring two 12v Noctuas in series - one for the case and one for the hot end heat sink - solve the 24v/12v question in one hit safely enough without the buck converter?
(case fan would be running all the time, but that may be better anyway)
@@kevfquinn As far as I understand electricity, yes. Tho ofcourse, if one fan dies, the other one wont work either and you'll have to figure out which one died and then have to replace it. I like to make my printer as easy to maintain as possible, so I like the buck converter version better (especially since they cost less than a dollar a piece) But, ofcourse you can also go for the "in series"option :)
Excellent guide and a very nice presentation!
Awesome work, man! 😊
Only one tip: there are much smaller and cheaper step downs in the market. You just have to be aware that the smaller one only works with up to 23v more or less. But the other one works great! 😊
I've done this conversion with the same fan, and it is a night and day difference. I cannot even tell that my Ender 3 is on when it's not printing. I used a cheap buck converter from Amazon. I bought a 5 pack and use one for the fan, one for my LED lighting, and one to power the Raspberry Pi (Octopi).
Great video. A lot of folks are criticizing this unnecessarily - it was an experiment to demystify Noctua and some approaches to step down the voltage from 24V to 12V that will and won't work with the circuit explanation behind it. There are many ways to skin this cooling cat. Bottom line: regardless of fan manufacturer, you are always trading some quantity of cooling effectiveness in exchange for reduced noise. 10db is a lot especially if you have multiple printers in a room like most of us do. I just upgraded the fans in my daughter's CR-10 control box and reduced the noise by 10 db (measured with an actual sound meter) compared to my almost stock CR-10 (I had changed one fan a while ago when it failed and will be doing the other two now that I heard the difference). The noise difference is dramatic.
I was so excited that the (ultra cheap and easy) resistor solution was going to work...that dream was crushed pretty quickly. Looks like I'm spending another $15 to silence the beast. Thanks for the great video Chuck.
And Chep! I did exactly the same math that you to install my 12v fan while waiting for the ones that I order. :-)
That is a fancy buck converter, kind of wish I'd gotten one of those instead but I'll make do with the cheapie to quiet down my control board fan with a Noctua after an SKR mini E3 upgrade.
okay, so that's what I won't do then^^ thanks for going with measurements instead of "it's so quiet and I think it blows stronger"
Thank you for saving me the time!
I used a fractal brand fan on my a30. Very quiet and powerful.
I think this is worth it if you are converting to the MiroSwiss hotend. I have noticed instead of the 10 degrees Ms says to bump up to I only have to use 5 or sometimes forget and doesn't even matter in my prints. Still a relevant video!
your video helped me alot because I dont have the same 3d printer but I do got cr10s pro v2 and its the same setup anyway thanks 👍
Thanks a lot for the video. Just a basic one: when connecting the black and red wires to a 12V DC power source, the fan goes to its maximum speed I guess.
I fitted this exact fan to my Ender 3 Max because the creality fan got really noisy after 3-4 months and I was afraid it was going to fail. I couldn't find a 24v fan that looked like it had any quality, and I know noctua fans have a reputation for reliability - it was this rather than the noise level that concerned me. I used one of those tiny 20x17mm buck converters adjusted to 12 that cost about £2. There appeared to be room in the E3 Max's shroud to put the converter, but instead I just cut the old fans wires, pulled them out of the sleeving down to the extrider, and used the 2 wire adapter that comes with the noctua fan kit soldered to the buck converter, and soldered the cut-back fan wires to the converter. I then covered it in heat-shrink and zip-tied it to the cable loom, plugged the noctua's fan lead into the adaptor and it all worked fine. I made temperature measurements and I couldn't see any significant difference in temp at the heatsink. I've printed several prints and print quality is as good as ever. If I want to enjoy the silence, I'm going to have to do the same with the fan in the electronics enclosure!
I have replaced cheap and loud 40mm heatsink fans with this Noctua and Scythe Kaze mini (no mods since I have 12V printers). Both equally silent, but the Scythe is 1/3 the price of the Noctua. The Kaze mini just comes with short red black wires to a 2pin connector and a short adapter cable for 3pin pc fan headers. So I think the Noctua's cost is more justified for the overkill packaging and accessories, besides the RnD costs. I did not measure the temp differences on my E3D v6 heatsink, but I never had an issue with heat creeping up the heatsink and soft filament resulting into jams. So if someone is looking to get a silent 40mm fan and thinks that Noctua is not worth it, try the Scythe Kaze Mini. I have been using 3 for about 6 months now with no issues so far.
I added a 12v fan - but my Buck convertor is a simpler one - so I simply attached it to my hotend wiring above the heatsink. But - I run my 12v fan at 14v - yep, works fine (used to do this on Video Arcade games when I was repairing them). High quality computer fan - very quiet --7db from standard and heatsink temp of 34c to 36c average - due to the higher cfm from the extra 2 volts.
Nice job Chuck!
Please note that the Db scale is not linear its logarithmic so a 10 Db decrease is actually a halving of the noise output. Chep you were there right next to it you must have noticed the change in sound was actually dramatic?
A 3 Db difference is halving or doubling of the sound pressure. A 10 Db difference is an apparent halving or doubling of sound. Our ears are less sensitive of sound pressure changes as the volume increases.
I would not pull the 2-pin cable out of the hose but use it for the new fan.
Instead of the resistors you can also use an LM7812. But it will also heat 1/2 watt.
Or you use another fan of the series again and switch it in series.
But a switching step down supply is the best solution.
Agree. Which is why I used a switcher.
I'm sure that your resistor setup would have worked just fine. After all, they're labeled 1/4 w because the manufacturer knows they can withstand the temps generated at such a load. AKAIK, 60-70 degrees C is still fine for a resistor, plus you could put it near the fan, and likely the temperature wouldn't rise at all.
I just got my Ender 3, and so far I'm loving it, but the internal fan annoys me because its loud and it turns off with the part-cooling fan, so I'll swap that one out.
I can't say how well this will work (since I'm waiting to receive my 3D printer as I write this), but I'm going to try putting a 5-sided, open-bottom, 1" foam board box over the printer. If it's still too loud, I could add another layer of foam all around. And if it gets too hot inside, I could use the Noctura fan (120mm pc case fan size) to vent the box!
Some 20 Years ago, I worked with a funnel on a CPU cooler. The CPU cooler from my Pentium 1 that time were 60 mm if I remember right. But I didnt found an affordable 60 mm fan at that time so I just mounted a cheap funnel and a standard 80 mm fan on a cooler that required a much smaller 60 mm fan.
With a 3D Printer you should be able to design a new heatsink shroud or at least a mount with funnel at it and should be able to install a 60mm or even a bigger but maybe also slimmer fan that comes with 24 volts... It's just an idea I had for a while since some people wanted to reduce the noise on their printer, but I havent done any research yet. Also the funnel should be designed that way it doesnt interfere with other components or even the bed of the printer itself.
But anyways ... nice work, entertaining video! Had a bit of science class and reminded me of school! That was nice.
Thats why you go with a noctua 4020 instead. You'd get the same temperature and lower noise. The BLtouch original mount will not work anymore, but you can always have it on the side instead.
It would be really cool if you did a video on upgrading the Ender 3 to print at higher temps such as 300C.
All metal hot end and the other modifications you would have to do.
You could probably run the fan at a little higher voltage like 12.5 or 12.8 and get a little more rpm probably not a noticeable amount of sound with no problems I'm sure they are rated for at least 10% +/-
Dang I didn't know CHEP was so good at math, he could easily be a math teacher. But then again if he was a teacher we wouldn't have Filament Friday.
Engineers are decent at math too ;)
Hi Chuck. Thanks once again for the great video. I did this mod, too, but I set my voltage for the Noctua fan at 13.5V. There's not much more fan noise than at 12V, but I wonder if there is more cooling. It would be interesting if you could find out since you have that thermistor for the heating block.
You can also use zener diode instead of resistor (or string of many normal diodes like 1N4004 connected in series).
He looks like that type of guy that is going to make me a perfect deal for the car.
I've just swapped to a silent SKR Mini E3 v3 from the stock 4.2.2 board, the fans are now the loudest thing on the printer (Ender 3 Pro) wondering if I should just get some new stock fans as they;re likely to be more quiet than the ones that are on there now and a couple of years old.
tbh you could wire the hotend fan (not the partfan) and the MB-Fan in series to one 24V terminal (i did that on my ender 3) so you wouldn't have to worry about running one fan on 24V (i checked with an electrician and he said this works). Since the Noctua Fans come with those Easy-Connector-Thingies, you can just use the stock wiring.
No, you shouldn't put two 12V fans in series. The problem is that the fans do not have a constant impedance due to how the motors work, which is easy to overlook. This means that as the fan runs its impedance will drop and causing the voltage to spike across the other fan. Both fans will actually do that to each other so they both will constantly be subjected to voltage spikes well outside their tolerances. It might work in the short term but you will be damaging both fans any time you run them.
You can get the same Bucks for $3 on eBay if you are willing to wait a few weeks. Another great video Chuck.
Do you know the CFM for the original Ender 3 fan, and did you base your choice on that, or did you chose to go with the lowest possible noise level? The latter seems to be the road everyone takes, and no one seems to think about the CFM output, wich in my honest oppinion is first priority, to avoid heatcreaping. And second get the lowest possible noise level.
Btw, you can chose to run the controlbox fan and heatend fan in series, and be without the stepdown module.
Thank you, it is very educative.
Thanks for the inspiration! I just ordered the Noctua NF-A4X10-FLX 5V and will put it parallel to my OctoPi and my LED lighting!
Love that you do just like i do. Never afraid to try something new n if it works it works if not i can always revert back to what i had before. The whole noctura fan thing, yeah i would have liked to seen them temp stay the same or decrease. So im with you deffinately not convinced noctura fan is the way to go. Not with the sacrifice of the heat sink running hotter. Just curious if anybody has considered a peltier for heat sink cooling.
What is your cura settings for the ender 3? Im having so many issues with mine. I tried the settings you used to fix your stringings but i got lots of wisps. The print you did here looks amazing
Kind of what i figured on doing but hooking up 2 x 12v 5015 fans in series so they are operating at 12v. Bought voltage step downs in case it was too loud but 1 x 12v at 24v wasn't annoying so i'm sure 2 @ 12v will be even quieter. We shall find out once the JST connectors get here. (PS: Using the dual blower petsfang v2)
I replaced both the electronics fan and hot end fan with these and just ran them in series. Works great and now my electronics fan isn't tied to parts cooling anymore either. Really quite compared to old. I did a dB check on just the fans while I had it out and the stock was like 40dB as read by my phone and the noctua was 20dB. Doing the power supply fan next which is just 12v so should be easy. This machine is almost silent now.
What fan did you buy for the electrics fan?
@@lifehackertips bought a pair of 40x10 noctuas.
@@lifehackertips they're 12v but if you run them in series you knock the 24v down to 12 and your electronics are no longer paired to the part cooling fan as is stock.
Both are now connected to the hot end fan port
Dreadnought yes I’m familiar with wiring, thats a much better idea than a buck converter
When you say the electronics fan, do you mean the one over the main board?
beauty bud- I'd have gone straight for the LM2940CT-12 voltage regulator transistor over the resistors to knock the 24v down to 12v I think. if you mount the transistor right on the fan- sort of cools itself also
good honest review
Thanks, Chuck. Hey, Do you find the Ender 3 louder or quieter than your Anycubic?
I work with my Anycubic in a small room and find the fans can get quite loud at times.
Noctua has informed me that they will be releasing a 24v to 12v step down adapter in the second quarter of this year
Thanx Chuck i was considering it, but decided not to mess with something that works.
Hey, great video, lost me 10 seconds into all the testing in the beginning but.. ahh :) . LOL . thought for ya to try as it works for me. I found the 40x20 noctura fans to be far superior to the 40x10. do have to mod/replace the shroud but they push the same or more air as a stock fan without as much noise. It's all I use now generally. I've also found "noise Blocker" brand of fans in the 40x10 size to be close to the Noctura in sound but push more air.
I had the same problem with a movinghead. Changed the original fan with a papst fan (couldn't find a noctua fan) en put a resistor in the line (2W). Had to lower down from 24V to 12V. It was getting hot too which I didn't like. Changed it for a 5W type and it didn't get hot ;-)
Hey Chuck, great video! But, to my humble understanding there are 3 fans on the Ender3, not including the power supply, hotend(always on), part fan(controlled by main board) and the main board cooling(controlled by the main board). Doesn't that require 3 separate step down buck ctrl modules? Also, can you control more than one (like 2 fans or 1 fan and led strip) device off of a buck module?
Thank u sir great info was curious how much quieter those fans are
Really nice video!
I did the same then put a noctua on the psu.This in combination with the stepper dampers makes the ender 3 super quiet!
Stepper dampers? Please share/elaborate.
@@donniefontaine8018 stepper motor dampers that cushion the stepper motors from the frame.
1k Ohm 5 Watt Wire Wound Resistor x3 in parallel together in series with the fan.
15 Watt heat capacity, 333 Ohm. place the Ceramic resistor casings upon the side of the heat sink so the fan keeps them cool. a nice safe, stable and no worries :)
Or do the right thing right away (like chep did) instead of quirky workarounds and waste of energy and install an efficient step-down converter 24V->12V for about 2 USD - and you can use the 12V output also for other add ons later (like 12 V LED-Stripes, ...)
Noctua only makes 120/140mm 24V models currently. They're the industrial models - either 2000 or 3000 RPM models. So they're pretty loud unless you're PWMing them.
Im running a buck converter on the case fan and the psu fan.I havent dont the head fan yet cause I wasent sure if I could without overheating the head. the ones I use just turn on and off with the voltage.
My solution was little different. Two Noctua 4010 12V fans in series. One for nozzle heatsink, one for electronics box. It makes 12V for each with no extra electronics. Works fine in my Ender3 for two months now.
I've run a 12V LED along side some 12V fans in series. It's been working great for a month.
Nice one! I was JUST searching for fan replacements for my ender. The part cooler sounds like a jet plane and after printing Michaels MKS case with the fan in the front, I want to smash that little board fan! Those small fans are capable of generating an inordinate amount of noise. I have the option of using an old PS3 power supply to offer me a 12VDC supply for all my accessories too (pi, lights, fans, etc). Leaving the ender supply to print.
Oh boy, from the thumbnail video it looked like you were wearing a Hugh Hefner type robe and that Noctua fan you are holding was a pipe :)
Hi Chuck, can you do a tutorial on how to make Noctua fan mods on the Ender 3v2? I find the stock fans are too noisy. Thanks!
I agree!
Noctua fans are quiet, but unfortunately they don't move as much air as the stock Creality fans. The Noctua is about 5 CFMs and the stock Ender 3 is about 8 CFMs. Hence, you are going to get as much cooling with Noctua.
@@WVRetreat Would the 40mm thick ones give more airflow? The stock ones are just way too loud.
@@JOEJOETHEJOEYyou don't need a saparate Guide to do that for V2.
Its same,
Replace the fan and use buck converter to adjust voltage