Sponsored: Contact your locally-owned and operated Mr. Electric location today: MrElectric.com/Andy 🚘 BEST Tesla Accessories: geni.us/tm3accs 🚙 Ordering a Tesla? Use my referral link for exclusive discount/credits: geni.us/t3sla
Electrician here. A huge advantage of the Wall Connector over the mobile connector is that it requires one less conductor than a regular 240V outlet. It has built in GFCI protection etc. that make this possible. Only need two hots and a ground instead of two hots, one neutral and a ground. I would recommend the Wall Connector all day long over the mobile connector.
@@curthoaldridge507 You are talking about saving money on cooper and also you mention using #4 Wire witch is rated for 80A ,#6 is rated for for 60A(according to Tesla manual also) , running a #4 will be a waste of money , Tesla wall charger/connector is pulling 48A (60A Breaker is required) . BTW i'm an electrician to ....
Thank you so much for the information provider in your video here. My wife just got a red '23 Model 3 Performance. We'll absolutely be taking your advice for properly charging the car. We've rarely had to use the supercharger unless we're traveling on long trips. She's absolutely in love with the car. Thanks again for the information!
I have done nicely with the mobile connector on a 110v circuit with my 22 M3LR, and for grins, I schedule charging to 80% only between 3pm and 8am as my utility suggests to be kind to the grid. Even if I plug in weekly all is fine. I do have the advantage of being retired and most driving is local trips. Even for road trips, I don't charge to 100%. For road trips, it is optimum to keep the battery as low as possible for efficient charging. Before and after delivery, so many insist having a 220v optimum is mandatory. I didn't think so then or now. Understanding one's use case is essential. Contrary to common belief, it has nominal impact on my electrical bill which last month was 2813 kWh of which 88 kWh was my Tesla for 3%. Friends think the neighborhood lights dim when I plug in. :)
Right there with you. I haven’t had a moment where the 120 adapter doesn’t support my needs. I’ll eventually get a NEMA 14-50 but I’ve been dragging my feet.
again, it depends on use. I seldom drive more than 90 miles per week. I know that's low, just one the benefits of being retired. So long as I plug in about once a week, I usually have over 200 miles of range. When I had my Dodge Ram, it was gassed once a month for at least 5x what I pay for juice.
I have a 240v connection but I'm using the split volt box so it only charges when I'm not drying clothes. 😉 Also I have the charge the rate set really low 15 or 16 amps.
It’s definitely much safer long term to install a hardwired EV charger versus using a mobile charger with a 120v or 240v plug. Much higher fire risk with utilizing the plug connection versus a hardwired connection, I believe this is well documented with other prominent TH-camrs.
I would also add that if you have a high amperage wall connector that you can still charge at a lower rate. B y lowering the rate you push less energy into the pack and it just extends the time. So in Andy's case of needing a 40% charge, he could lower the amperage from 48 AMPS to 20 AMPS and still have a full charge by 7 am. I personally set my car to charge at 18 AMPS because that comes out to 15 miles of range per hour of charging.
Please! A High CURRENT wall connector. Lower the CURRENT. And ensure the outlet into which you ar plugged (if not directly connected to your breaker panel is a quality brand. No Leviton or anything other than HUBBELL.
@@The_DuMont_Network to further add to this - Hubbell 14-50 outlet is excellent but ensure it's an Industrial Spec. outlet. There are Residential, Commercial and Industrial. I've an industrial spec Hubbell 14-50 and unplug/plug daily for the past 2.5yrs with no issue.
@@Teslawalter I read a white paper earlier this year that suggested 30-32A at 240V was optimal as it didn't overheat the battery, and charged the battery quickly enough so it didn't need remain warm so long during longer charging sessions required for lower amperage/voltage sessions.
Note, the newer Mobile Connectors now come with both the 110 V cord, and a 240 V (NEMA 14-50 plug). You can also buy the NEMA 14-50 if you already have the Mobile Connector from a few years ago when they did not come with that.
The wall connecter is really nice to have AND I got a rebate from my local utility when I purchased it. That way I can keep the mobile connector in the car all the time. I actually have two Tesla's and installed two wall connectors running off the same breaker. They have a power sharing option where the talk to each other via wifi so they never exceed your breaker amperage, which is great.
Really informative video, Andy - thanks. FYI, my Tesla service center recommends "recalibrating" your Battery Management Unit every month or two months. This is done by charging to 100%, discharging to below 20%, then recharging to 100% again, which is then followed by normal driving and charging levels of 80%. They said doing this recalibrates the BMU controls on the car enabling it to make better estimates. Have you heard this before?
I took delivery of my 2024 MYRWD 2 weeks ago. As I was wrapping up my paperwork I was told that Tesla had just issued recommendation to charge the battery to 100% once per week to ensure the algorithms for battery management retain ability to charge to 100% of the battery capacity. I’ve tried to independently verify this information and have not been able to do so but what you just said synchs mostly with what they told me. But the once a month makes more sense. Regardless, it seems there is something to this.
Thanks for this. I find it's interesting the techs have similar recommendations. Perhaps Tesla should include this info in the app or on the Charging screen of the car. For the first two years I had my M3LR, the recommendation was 85% for daily driving. I had only one instance where the BMU went crazy; on a two-hour drive, the remaining charge level began to drop dramatically - like a leak in a gas tank. It freaked me out for a while, so I pulled over, put it in Park and rebooted the computer. When the car restarted, the BMU showed the correct percentage remaining. Now I reboot after every OTA update, just to be on the safe side.@@srmtn1
@@mikeforwarduk LFP charging to 100% is ONLY recommended because the BMS needs to be recalibrated -- Tesla doesn't want the BMS to over (or under) charge or over estimate the range available. Charging to 100% is bad (varying degrees) for ALL Lithium chemistries, LFP included. Unless you are going to make a trip where you need to know the battery's charge ~exactly, it's not a big deal. Most daily drivers can easily do what they need to do using the 20-80% range of their battery and decrease the degradation of their battery -- and never touch the parts of the charge where the calibration matters. Recalibrating once a month is entirely adequate for 95% of drivers.
Tesla now recommends NOT charging every day, and NOT keeping your battery pack at a high SoC. I recently had service done on my 2018 M3 and I was proudly telling the tech that I charged daily and was careful with the battery, and he told me this. He said the best practice is to charge to 80 or 85, then pull it down to 30 or below (percentages, of course) before charging. This utilizes the lower part of the pack which otherwise would always be charged and thus could affect the health of the cells. So I charge to 85 and drive to 25 or 20. I have done this from the beginning for my 2023 M3 and I hope the battery degradation will be minimal over the years. My 2018 has over 105,000 miles and it has lost 10-12% of range.
That's about as good as I would have expected under the best possible circumstances. And the rate of loss will still be slowing down all the time. I do the same, and can only hope it will be as good as yours.
You should understand there is no "lower part of the pack that doesn't get utilized" in your battery, it's not like a liquid filled tank, it's a battery with a state of charge measured in volts, not actually tank full of electrons. The charge is stored throughout the battery cell in layers upon layers of graphite and polyolefin. Not to mention, if you are taking the estimated range and dividing by the estimated SOC, that's very much only an estimate of battery degradation. The only accurate way to measure degredation is to have known the initial capacity of the pack in YOUR car (they are all slightly different) then fully charge and measure the capacity used on a full discharge. I designed li-ion batteries for the last 20 years, this is the only accurate way, not by using any type of electronic fuel gauge.
@@S2kDude36And as Nyland advises, drive the car until it stops moving to determine how much of the buffer has disappeared as the manufacturer tries to 'hide' the degradation.
Yeah… that’s not how any of that works. Lithion ions exist in a chemical solution, and at 50% SOC they are at equilibrium and relatively equidistant from both anode and cathode reducing chemical reactions at the electrodes. A battery is happiest at 50% charge and you want to maintain the band so that it is the most narrow around 50% what you were doing is increasing what’s called depth of discharge which is related to increased battery degradation.
Got mine 23 M3P a month ago. I’m happy to hear this it reinforces what I do. 12A no more than 80% I hardly drop below 55%. My driving habits (other cars also I own help) makes this trickle charge sufficient for me. I use the car 5-6 days a week as a DD
One problem with charging at too low amperage is that it keeps the battery temp higher for longer because it takes longer to charge. There is a trade-off between amperage and length of charge. I read a white paper earlier this year that suggested that 30-32A provides a good balance, charging the battery at low enough amperage to not overly heat the battery pack while charging, but charging it quickly enough that the battery doesn't remain at elevated temperatures for hours-on-end while charging. I only use about 25% of my '23 MYLR battery pack on my commute, so I typically charge to 62% at 30-32A. When combined with scheduled charging, this keeps my average SoC at
Try not to stress to much on your battery guys, tesla makes a durable battery pack... had my myp for 2 years now, never had a problem... that's great that your concious about the battery but don't over whelp yourself... if you want to super charge super charge or if you want to charge slow do that too whatever makes you sleep better... these cars were designed to handle super charging..
@@dpete5410 actually, adjusting to lower current generates less heat, which in effect contribute to longer battery life. but then again, Tesla batteries are designed to last long.
The chart shown at 6:17 shows test results for battery *storage life* at different SOC levels and temperatures. It has absolutely nothing to do with battery charging (or discharging) rates.
I can confirm that charge speed doesn't affect battery capacity with a model S p90d with 130,000 miles of free supercharging. Keeping soc between 20-80% is key
He said there was no difference between level 1 and level 2 charging, but supercharging does degrade the batteries faster, maybe just not enough for someone to notice without an a-b comparison.
The way I look at it is if you work 8 hours a day 5 days a week that means you’re likely home most of the rest of your days so you have around 12 hours home per work day and then weekends. You can easily charge 240-300 miles during your 5 work days and then weekend anytime you’re home. The avg driver drives 12,000 miles a year which is about 230 per week. 120v is more than enough for the average person. Plus if you can charge at work it’s even better.
And you pretty much summed up why most people don't want an EV. You literally can't just jump in the car and head to grandma's house 100 miles away because at 120v you will never get enough charging back to fit back into your schedule. You need a 240v at home to make an EV useable.
You are correct, Charging Lithium chemistries slower is a battery saver, Pushing the max amount of amps into the cells causes cathode swelling, this causes battery degradation. I've found this on stationary batteries which are the same concept....... LFP also does not like being charged to 100%, but if you compute the voltage needed to keep the cells in the flater part of the charge curve your LFP will last very very long.... With increased SOC's and High temps are a dendrite accelerator which is most certainly battery cell killers, sometimes even detonators....
You're discussing this seriously, what to do if you're driving on the highway and it's 105 degrees outside and you need to charge. Do you suggest not going and staying at home? Or wait until the evening at the charging station to charge? I don’t live for this car, I bought it so that this car would serve me and not me for it. Tesla is a terrible car. I own a Tesla. and I know what kind of car it is. And also what kind of service they provide.
Great video. All of what you said makes sense. I've been telling people the easiest way to protect your battery is to charge with a 120V outlet for a while now. Keep your battery above 30% (why PHEV's don't let you "EV only" below 30%) and below 80% excluding road trips. Let's be real. Most drivers are home >12hrs per day. That means 24 - 36 miles a day. If you're only home 12 hours a day using a 120V outlet. Most people are home longer than that. Most people drive about the American average of 37mi/day. That means you'd need to use a level 2 charger roughly 1 - 3 times per year. But no one wants to talk about the feasibility of 120V charging. It's not cool. It's not expensive. And it's something everyone can do as long as they aren't in an apartment that has no outside plugs. Then, Plugshare has tons of free level 2 charging you can easily charge your weekly drive in 3-4 hours once a week.
Andy I would recommend that owners choose a HARD WIRED set up like I have with my Bolt. An outlet, especially a poor quality outlet is adds another variable that can go wrong with charging. I’ve seen many outlets melted due to poor outlets or under torqued lugs holding the leads down. For owners that install an outlet, the least you could do is double check the outlet occasionally (yearly) to make sure they are still torqued. Simply feeling it for heat can give you an early warning if there is a potential issue.
I have always been confused about people who will spend thousands on a car, but cheap out at the outlet that costs less than $100. Hard wiring is preferred, but if you insist on plugging in, I strongly suggest looking for a receptacle that is "Hospital Grade". The retention strength of the metal inside the receptacle slots is much higher than the cheap ones.
I drove my 2014 P85+ Model S for 10 years before unfortunately totalling it in March, but saw less than 4% battery degradation over the life of the car by applying very similar charging practices as described here. Back in 2014, Teslas came with free Superchargering for life, but I only used it when necessary and preferred Level 1 and Level 2 charging for my daily driving. One thing not mentioned in the video is that Tesla allows you to reduce the amount of amperage drawn while charging, which perhaps further reduces heat. Being able to reduce amperage drawn is also helpful in situations where you might not be on a dedicated circuit and don't want to trip (or risk tripping) the breaker. I'll miss that beautiful OG Model S, but just took delivery of a Cybertruck a week ago.Too bad Tesla didn't include free Supercharging on the Foundation Series trucks (even though I don't plan to use the chargers much).
pretty sure it's not your fault, but 5:36 and additional 2:42 of not skippable advertisement before i can watch your 12:49 video? really, youtube? The video as such is very informative and compact. Thanks and keep up the good work.
It’s the same thing as a phone, when you use fast charging it gets the battery hot. Over time it wears it out faster. I also noticed it doesn’t last as long during the day
If high summer temperatures are bad for supercharging a NCA battery, why does the trip software "precondition" the battery for fast charging at a supercharger? I presume the "preconditioning" means that the battery is warmed to accept a faster charge?
My 2018 Model 3 doesn't have as many miles (~80k), but I am at 95% of original battery capacity still. For the first 2 years, it was a high daily mileage driver (140 miles a day), but since 2020, it barely goes 200 miles a month. So I've been keeping it at about 55-60% SoC most of the time as my charge limits.
Because I have solar and Powerwall for home, Tesla allows me to charge 2022-MY Long Range(80%) and 2023-M3(100%) on "Solar Energy Only"(other than house usage). So, it is slow charging. In the morning I let the Powerwall recharge to at least 80% after overnight usage. Then let the solar charge the EV. I live in San Diego, where there are a lot of sunny days! Other than some winter days my house and EVs are totally off the grid. Keep in mind, make sure Powerwall has enough energy for your house during the high peak(price) hours, 5pm - 9pm.
Absolutely right, I've always followed that regimen with my early 2022 M3LR anyway, as it makes logical sense, and it's never gone over 90%, mostly 40-75% unless there's a specific requirement. Tbh, I don't think 100% charging is a great idea with LFPs either, and if I had one, I certainly would not be charging it more than 80-90% on a daily basis, whatever is said.
Charging to 100% may be needed, but in rare cases. Remember, if you do that, you will have NO or greatly reduced regenerative braking until you draw down the charge so you have some rooom for the energy to be stored.
Great info, I put an extension from my dryer circuit, it is just 30 amps. I installed a 14 30 outlet with a plug in charging cable and it charges at 5.7 kW. It will charge the 78kWh battery overnight
I agree that 120 V charging can be sufficient for people who average less than 30-40 miles/day. Record your total milage for a week or two to see what your daily average is. If going that route, I highly recommend replacing the $0.64 "builders spec" outlet with a $1.89 "commercial grade" or "industrial grade" outlet. These outlets can handle the continuous high current needed for EV charging with less chance of burning or melting.
Hi Andy. Another great video. Don't know if you read these comments, but can you do a video primer on kWh/mi, Wh/mi, "reference consumption," and all the EV statistics that we need ro know? Thank you.
Hello, I have a Model 3 Long Range, and I usually charge the car at the beginning of the week at 80%, and I spend about 6% per day. I get to the end of the week with about 50%, do you think I should wait until I reach 50% to charge or should I charge every day to the 80% limit? Thanks for the great video.
@@mihaifogoros3498 You're right. At the end of the day it's all about convenience. I do follow the official advice to rarely go above 80% or below 20%.
@@devfaulter official advice is 100% wrong and they are hiding some very important details. The optimal charge limit for your battery is 55% limit and then you can use as much state of charge you want. Plugging in every chance you get is better Actually charging to 80% like tesla recommends will literally double your degradation vs. charge limiting to 55%. This has been proven by many lithium charging studies. Tesla sort of "lies" because they don't want you to know how many years your battery will last or that age is the main factor killing your battery. Charging cycles are insignificant wear on the battery by comparison.
I really appreciate this video. I have the same exact wall charger in my garage. We bought it for my wife’s Jeep Wrangler 4xe. We just brought the brand new Tesla Model 3 Performance home today. It is in the garage and ready to charge - but I first had to check out your video.
I do the same thing with my Zero SR 11.4 motorcycle from 2014. Charging during the day from 35-40% to 80-85%. Works perfect. Mileage is kinda low, since I only bought it with 21000kms on it 1.5 years ago, range is still very good for such a bike. Yesterday I got almost 80kms out of 50% battery. Thats incredible for a 10kWh net capacity battery from 10y old! And it even was like 90% highway driving. This morning 70mph even.. (125kmh)
Tesla provides the following recommendation in the section High Voltage Battery Information: Model Y has one of the most sophisticated battery systems in the world. The most important way to preserve the high voltage Battery is to LEAVE YOUR VEHICLE PLUGGED IN when you are not using it. This is particularly important if you are not planning to drive Model Y for several weeks. Do I understand correctly that it is better to always keep the vehicle plugged in whenever possible, and that I do not need to disconnect the car from charging even if the battery is fully charged to the specified limit?
Good points Andy and thanks so much for your videos and time. I also feel it helps to decrease your amps to more of a trickle charge type charging. I have a 60 amp breaker (looks like you may also) and so I could charge at 48 amps (Tesla limits it to 80% of max) and get faster charging but I usually turn my amps down to 25-30 to sort of trickle charge..some people go lower and there is evidence that this helps battery health too. Thanks for all your research nd sharing
To eschew obfuscation, you decrease the "CURRENT", not "decrease your amps", or "turn my amps down". And yes, a lower charge rate will decrease the temperature rise, with a concurrent salubrious effect on the battery.
@@The_DuMont_Network Yes, but you decrease the current by decreasing the amps (the rate of the current flowing) in your app or on your screen under charging. There is no adjustment in the app or on the screen where you "decrease the current". This was a discussion on practical things to do to keep your battery healthy. Charge to 80 %, charge in cool weather, turn the amps down on the same screen the charge limit is adjusted. Keeping it simple. Most Tesla owners know this, some new to EVs don't.
My wife and I have had 5 Teslas since 2019, three model 3s and two model Ys. I have followed all of these charging practices since the very beginning, and all of them ended up the same: roughly 10% capacity lost by 30k miles or so. I did keep the first model Y until about 45k miles, and it was the lowest of the bunch: just under 90% of original capacity. I am not sure how to reconcile when people report they have only lost 2% or even 5% as that is not our experience across a decent number of batteries. However - we do live in a really hot area, where temps can be over 100 degrees for over 1/3 of the year. That may be the only reason there is a discrepancy between what some people experience with degradation and what we have. Still, many times I am left wondering if all the effort to follow these rules really mattered. ie, my wife's model 3s were used a lot for traveling and did a decent amount of supercharging yet they did not degrade any better or worse than our other "home charged" cars. /shrug
Interesting. I suspect the hot temps could be the reason. How do you check battery degradation? I only have 22K miles on my 2021 LR Model Y and haven't noticed any degradation so far. But I haven't officially measured it.
@@LuKiSCraft Most simple would be to take the miles remaining and divide it by your current SOC. Our Model 3 LR currently reports 139mi remaining @ 42% SOC. 139/.42 = 330mi. that should be the 100% range. Since the car new was 353 miles, 330mi is ~94% of its original range. However, Tesla includes a buffer below zero in their total range which confuses things. I am not sure what that buffer is, but it might bump that 94% up another 3 or 4%. I actually go by the consumption meter, which as far as I know does include the below 0 buffer. I look at the 30 mile average, multiply wh/mi by estimatated range remaining, then divide it by the SOC. those numbers however are only estimates by the BMS, so usually the most accurate way is to drive or burn the battery down from 100 to 0 and measure how much energy was expended. but that's a lot of effort.
@@blanketwodahs6741 okay, yeah. If I do that, my LR Model Y (with Gemini wheels) says 305mi, down from 330mi EPA. So a 7.6% battery degradation after 22K miles. I'm pretty sure the rate of degradation slows down around 85% of original battery capacity (which is why Tesla sets their battery warranty policy to 80% of original capacity over 150K miles). Good news for us is most of the degradation is already in.
@@blanketwodahs6741 and TBH it is hard to notice this 7% degradation in the real world. I am still able to make it to my destinations without any noticeable difference in charging times / stops
To really see the battery degradation you should note it down how much it showed at 100% as brand new. Not all the batteries will have EPA range remaining showed at 100% as new.
I agree...slow charge is much more gentle on batteries... I am sure batteries will last much longer..and use middle range of charge not to high not to low.
I got a 2022 Model 3 Performance, i only charge at home or at work (we have free charging for employees). For my house I ran a 240 volt line from my dryer in the backmof my garage to the front next to the garage door and i also made a hole on the side wall to the outside and installed a small weather proof box over it on the outside. Then i bought a second portable charger and the correct adapter to plug it permanently on the new 240 volt outlet and have a small hook to hold the charger right there. If i want to charge insode the garage, i just use it. If i want to chatge outside, I pass the charger to the outside using the hole I made and charge outsode wothout having to open the garage door at all. I rather charge outside most of the time since I usually keep one of my cars in the garage (a sports car Nissan 300ZX). So the cable is usually rolled inside the box I installed outside. The only catch to my setup is that i cannot use the dryer and the charger at the same time as the line is not meant to be for that and the breaker would jump. But that is no problem for me since I charge over night at home and laundy is done on weekends during the day. And since i started to work on a new job, they have free charging stations for employees so I just charge there every day, barely use the charger at home. As for the charging habits, I always charge to 80%, my commute is short, so i spend about 5 to no more than 7% battery each way to work, plus another 3 to 5% for the Sentry mode while parked at work. Since I charge there, my Tesla barely sees 80%, about 3 to 4 hours per day only. The rest of the day and night is at about 70 to 75% average while parked at home. So 99% of my charging is Level 2 charging (240 volt). As for Superchargers, I only use them when needed while going on a trip which is not often as we usually use my wife mini van (Kia Carnival) since we have 3 kids. After 2 years of owning my Tesla, it os about to turn 10K miles on the odometer so it is practically new and the battery should be virtually in perfect conditions too go en the way I charge. Hopefully my next Tesla will have a better battery, and perhaps the one after it will have a solid state battery if that becomes the norm which I'm sure will happen. Then range will be probably close to 800 to 1K miles, charging will be done in a few minutes on Superchargers, and the battery will not suffer with full charge nor with very hot or cold weather due to the solid state of the electrolytes. By then, I would think in about 10 years or so, ICE vehicles will finally start to fade out as people will no longer have excuses since there will be no range anxiety nor weather anxiety. Cannot wait for such EVs to hit the ,arket, mostly, Tesla. Cheers.
Even though I don't own a Tesla (I have a 12 year old Leaf that lacks thermal control) if you baby the battery it will stay good a lot longer than warranty or the usual 10 year caveat. What do I mean by baby a battery: 1) I never have fast charged it even though I could, I've only done level 2 charging which is adequate given the Leaf's mileage limits; 2) keep the car garaged and less elements thermal change (if your battery lacks the active thermal control or you want to lessen the draw during down time); 3) if you full charge don't leave the battery at that state long (I always drive hard to make sure if at full charge to stay below 80% if short trip); and 3) for long periods (I'm talking a week or more) only keep that battery at or below 50% SOC. I'm still on my original battery after 12 years and from my original efficient driving range of 105 miles I'm now down to 65-70 miles and the battery indicates I can still fully charge it. Which is probably because given the Leaf's limited range are all short trips and I charge less frequently than most. In fact it is sort of ironic that my 12 volt accessory battery has been replaced 3 times so far.
I am not up with all the technical details , but when i bought my Y ; 12 months ago I was going to install 3 phase and actually put the cable in the ground. After buying a Zappi charger (English) I was told I would be just as well off with single phase. Well I have had at least six months free charge on echo plus from sola. I have one advantage I am retired so I can leave my car charger on in inclement conditions and stiil get some charge, but we do have an advantage being in Western Australia.I have recorded a start date 1-09-2023 and intend to get 7 to 8 mnths of free charge at least.
A recent study found that supercharging doesn't affect battery health. Which kinda makes sense given the amount of engineering that went into supercharging.
"We compared cars that fast charge at least 90% of the time to cars that fast charge less than 10% of the time. In other words, people who almost exclusively fast charge their car and people who very rarely fast charge. The results show no statistically significant difference in range degradation between Teslas that fast charge more than 90% of the time and those that fast charge less than 10% of the time." Recurrent. Reply
It's also a good idea to not let the car reach the SOC limit you set. For instance, if you know when you'll be using the car, slow down the charging so it's close to getting done by the time you leave. Reason for this is when you let it sit without charging, vampire drain sets in, and that counts towards the battery cycling.
Wall Connector is easy to install, safe, quicker charge and you don't have to plug in and out repeatedly which is NOT good for a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. OH, and they don't melt. And they look COOL.
I've seen data and research that supports the idea, supercharging regularly (or even exclusively) vs. home charging is not a huge difference in terms of the longevity of the battery. So there are different studies with different datas showing opposite things?
Another thought is charging a EV in a climate controlled garage. I recently had a mini-split system installed in my garage, and keeping the garage between 50F in Winter and 80F in summer should help maintain good battery temperatures while parked/charging. I use a evse that came with WiFi and a phone app allowing me to set amperage from 6-40amps on 240v power. I usually charge at 16-20amps.
respectfully I do not recommend the cheap $45 Nema outlet. Go ahead and spend $90 for the outlet. Plugging and unplugging the cable stresses the powerful 240 volt power outlet.
If you are on a tight budget you would not own a Tesla, get the best connector for the intended use (likely get both). The wall connector is the way to go for home, especially in situations (like mine) where the wall connector lives outdoors. Also, the NEMA 14-50 outlet can be a (arcing) fire hazard especially if it is not a quality one (like most electricians would use) and you plug and unplug to bring it with you (because you cheaped out on connectors). The car has an 11.5kwh onboard charger get the solution that can use it. It seems insane to buy a $40k, $50k, $60k+ vehicle and then try to save $200 on a the charging hardware you use every day.
One thing you do not consider is the overhead cost of charging at diminishingly low rates. Just keeping the car awake while charging takes several amps at 110v (the contactors draw maybe an amp just keeping the battery connected, plus waking up the computers and "head"). You are drawing those amps for the duration of the charge. If you finish in 3 hrs vice 18, you are saving 15x whatever that parasitic loss is. Also, charging at a low rate doesn't warm up the battery significantly, so the resistance losses are higher.
Can you adjust the current draw for your level 1 charge rate? The last EV I rented gave me two options: 8 Amps,(960 watts) or 12 amps.(1,440 watts@120 volts). When I used level 2, the NEMA 14-50 plug, it pulled 30 amps,(7200 watts@240 volts) with no option to adjust. If it were possible, I would have chosen 12.5 amps, for an even 1,500 watts@120 volts. For maximum efficiency, I would measure the outlet voltage, and set the current so it doesn't cause any more than 3 volts of drop compared to unloaded voltage. The farther the outlet is away from the load center, the more voltage drop per amp of draw, just due to the extra length of wire from the breaker box to the outlet. Use an extension cord ONLY as a "last resort"!! An extension cord can greatly reduce your MPGe from "plug to pavement". What kind of extension cord, or even which outlet you choose to plug into can make a similar difference to your mileage per kWh, as adjusting tire inflation pressure. My cars built-in charger drew the same amperage, no matter what the supply voltage was. That amperage multiplied by voltage at the connector, is the ACTUAL wattage being supplied to the cars charging system. The more voltage drop, the lower the wattage, the longer it takes the charge, the more wattage drawn through the electric meter!
Yea, be careful -- went with wall charger vs 14-50 install 14-50 requires industrial plug (Hummel or Bryant)- $50 to $80 depending on source 14-50 requires gfci breaker -- $100 more than regular breaker 14-50 requires a minimum of 6-3 vs 6-2 romex - for 35 feet was $41 more 14-50 requires double gang box and faceplate - $10 Thats ~$200 more to install a 14-40 vs a tesla wall connector. And Georgia power gives you $150 rebate when you install an ev charger -- mobile connector doesn't count Made sense to get tesla wall connector. I have an older electrical panel, so the 50 amp gfci was closer to $170 bucks and was very hard to find -- Tesla wall connector was the better choice.
I have had my 2018 Model 3 for 5 years and mostly charge at home with a Tesla Wall Connector to 80%. I only use Superchargers when I am travelling. After 75,000 miles I still have 300 miles range when charged to 100%, so that's less than a 4% drop from the 311 mile range when new.
Same here. I also found that lowering the amperage in my wall connector to 15 AMPS to 25 AMPS and allowing a longer charge time was easier on the pack.
As someone that lives in Texas, where it’s 100 degrees daily, with no wall charger this vid terrified me lol. And I’m stuck in this lease for another year 😓
If you use the mobile connector using an NEMA 14-50 240V outlet be sure you get an industrial rated and quality NEMA 14-50 and follow all codes and get an inspection.
Thanks for the super hot tip! I am moving to LA to my grandpas dated, empty rental he's kept for my mom (only child) and my siblings. I'll likely pay just utilities and I don't want to push him to let me install anything permanent. I will definitely try the mobile connector at home!
Sarah, if you are driving 70 milrd or less a day (commuting), you will be fine with a standard wall outlet. BUT ( MAJOR BUT ). Make sure the outlet into which you plug is not worn. If it doesn't take a little effort to plug in, get the outlet replaced with a commercial grade (like HUBBELL, not leviton, or any Ah So brand). Make sure the conenction is tight, and make sure the plug/outlet doesn't feel warm after a charge session. If you can afford a higher current outlet and get the appropriate plug for your charging adapter (from Tesla),by all means do so. Even a 220V 20Amp Air Conditioner outlet will make your setup more efficient. And say Hello to Grandpa for me. I sure miss mine. And I'm a 76 year old grandpa.
@@The_DuMont_Network I have notifications on haha! Quick reply. I was already prepared to have to live on supercharging so I guess I will use the mobile connection as much as I can and SC as needed. All depends what job I end up with. Looking within 25 mile radius but in LA that could be a 1 hour 25 commute. I have the luxury of young grandparents (75-75) because they had my mom in college. Very sharp and good health
No matter what you do battery will degrade as it is worn out. It's not a fuel tank. It's a reactor. A chemical reaction goes on it when you discharge it and the same in reverse when you charge it. Just like a combustion engine, it will ware out. But you burn the candle on both ends so to speak.
I used the mobile charger with the 110 outlet in my garage, with my model Y and kept it plugged all the time. It worked fine for the first few weeks but suddenly blew the breaker and stopped working. Thinking 110 charging is not Practical unless it’s on a dedicated circuit. So I installed a nema 14 - 50 problem solved.
Hi Battery life is affected by years and numbers of charges/discharges cycles So if we d’ont run too much every day, we reduce number of charges to provide longer battery life ???
Great advice on maximizing battery longevity! A few related points: Level 1 charging is significantly less efficient than level 2, so you'll save a bit of money every year if you upgrade to level 2. NEMA 14-50 outlets are designed for things that stay plugged in for years at a time. Many of the less expensive receptacles have been known to fail spectacularly when used for EV charging. A good quality Bakelite14-50 receptacle such as Hubbell is not cheap, so a hard-wired EV charger isn't actually that much more expensive, and it's significantly safer. Not only does it eliminate the receptacle as a point of failure, it also eliminates the possibility of arcing if you accidentally unplug it while charging an EV. While Tesla's Wall Connectors can charge at up to 48 Amps, doing so requires a 60 Amp breaker and usually involves expensive cumbersome 4 AWG wire. It's often more practical to install it with a 50 Amp breaker with cheaper 6 AWG wire. The electrician will then configure it to limit charging to 40 Amps, which is still plenty fast for overnight charging. This should have a negligible effect on charging efficiency. Scheduling charging to occur overnight is usually a good way to ensure your electricity comes from cleaner base load energy sources. So even if you don't save money by charging off-peak, it's still a good idea.
Trust nothing but Hubbell connectors from a local Electrical supply House. Leviton and others from Home Depot, Lowe's, etc are crap. Don't forget to torque to spec ALL connectors in the power panel once a year. Test with touchless thermometer before you do. My power company will disconnect my panel (remotely operated/monitored meter) so I can safely torque the input lugs. Takes less than minutes for them to respond. And OBTW, make sure you don't have pointy screws (like sheetrock screws) securing the panel front. My brand new built house had them in the panel on day 1! City inspector had passed the panel. City Engineer had chats with both builder and inspector, builder paid for fix and reinspection by independen inspector.
I specified a 48A, 11.5kW wired Juicebox charger for quicker level 2 charging. There is zero difference in battery degradation between 16A and 48A charging. In fact, there are YT videos proving 100% DC Fast charging has little to no effect on battery health. But never keep your battery above 90% or below 10% for a long time.
You can use #6 THHN copper wire in conduit for a 60A breaker running 48A continuously if wire length is not very long. For very short lengths, I’ve seen electricians use 8 gauge.
@@johnpoldo8817 There are indeed scenarios where maxing out the current doesn't cost any more, in which case I say go for it! I agree faster AC charging is just fine for the battery.
I recently bought a tesla. 450 to install an outlet for 14-50 plus the wall connector 250. Versus 450 to install the tesla charger (450 minus the 250 SRP rebate). With the rebate, it actually didn't cost that much more. During the install, the technician told me the 14-50 nema tends to burn out, he had to change so many of them recently. After install I discovered my tesla only can charge 32A compared to the advertised 48A for the tesla charger. Either way both option probably would have offered only 30-35 mile per hour.
Another tip: on the 14-50 NEMA, if you charge at night, trickle charge at 20 amps rather than the allowed 32 amps since youll have 6-8 hours while you sleep.
My 15 month old '22 Model Y has 10k miles on it and has suffered only 2-3% battery degradation. I do 99% of my charging at home, and maintain the battery between 40-75%. I hardly never charge to 80%. There needs to be massive *level-2 charging garages* _for people without home EVSE,_ where they can leave their car for a few hours !
My job is 30 miles away from my house and I also have to drive to clients houses. I’ll get back home with barely 20% after driving about 80 miles in one day. Being charged from home at 80%. The range doesn’t make sense how people talk about it only if you drive in the city but not on highways. It’s quite inconvenient for me and the days I have to drive up to clients that are 50 miles away from me I’ll get home with 5% if I don’t charge at 100% the night before. The range cool-aid is a bit of a lie. The car doesn’t drive more than 130-160 miles really before you have to charge it. Not 260-300.
Hey. Thanks for the info! Question: Charging over 80% (let’s say 95%) VS Supercharging 10-20% @ the halfway point so that the car arrives @ home with over 20%?? Which one saves the battery more? Thanks😊
Sponsored: Contact your locally-owned and operated Mr. Electric location today: MrElectric.com/Andy
🚘 BEST Tesla Accessories: geni.us/tm3accs
🚙 Ordering a Tesla? Use my referral link for exclusive discount/credits: geni.us/t3sla
charge your tesla the right way drive it into ocean!
@@billybobbob3003lol
This guy who installed charger knows nothing about ev sales all he wants to do is sell chargers
This is by far the best charging summary I have seen.
Electrician here. A huge advantage of the Wall Connector over the mobile connector is that it requires one less conductor than a regular 240V outlet. It has built in GFCI protection etc. that make this possible. Only need two hots and a ground instead of two hots, one neutral and a ground. I would recommend the Wall Connector all day long over the mobile connector.
Just want to know what is the disadvantage for having an extra neutral wire?
Cost of Copper isn't cheap. Especially if you're using 4 gauge wire for a 60 amp setup.@@PulsarAsh
@@PulsarAshless unused copper
@@curthoaldridge507 You are talking about saving money on cooper and also you mention using #4 Wire witch is rated for 80A ,#6 is rated for for 60A(according to Tesla manual also) , running a #4 will be a waste of money , Tesla wall charger/connector is pulling 48A (60A Breaker is required) .
BTW i'm an electrician to ....
@@curthoaldridge507you just bought a $45k+ car, you can afford 6awg wire… only $0.98/ft at my Lowe’s. Only $100 for my 30’ run.
Bro commutes 50 plus miles one way and still finds time to give us great content. We salute you!! I need to up my Tesla content game😂
Thank you so much for the information provider in your video here. My wife just got a red '23 Model 3 Performance. We'll absolutely be taking your advice for properly charging the car. We've rarely had to use the supercharger unless we're traveling on long trips. She's absolutely in love with the car. Thanks again for the information!
I have done nicely with the mobile connector on a 110v circuit with my 22 M3LR, and for grins, I schedule charging to 80% only between 3pm and 8am as my utility suggests to be kind to the grid. Even if I plug in weekly all is fine. I do have the advantage of being retired and most driving is local trips. Even for road trips, I don't charge to 100%. For road trips, it is optimum to keep the battery as low as possible for efficient charging. Before and after delivery, so many insist having a 220v optimum is mandatory. I didn't think so then or now. Understanding one's use case is essential. Contrary to common belief, it has nominal impact on my electrical bill which last month was 2813 kWh of which 88 kWh was my Tesla for 3%. Friends think the neighborhood lights dim when I plug in. :)
Right there with you. I haven’t had a moment where the 120 adapter doesn’t support my needs. I’ll eventually get a NEMA 14-50 but I’ve been dragging my feet.
110v is definitely doable for most ppl but you have to plug in every day…
again, it depends on use. I seldom drive more than 90 miles per week. I know that's low, just one the benefits of being retired. So long as I plug in about once a week, I usually have over 200 miles of range. When I had my Dodge Ram, it was gassed once a month for at least 5x what I pay for juice.
I have a 240v connection but I'm using the split volt box so it only charges when I'm not drying clothes. 😉
Also I have the charge the rate set really low 15 or 16 amps.
It’s definitely much safer long term to install a hardwired EV charger versus using a mobile charger with a 120v or 240v plug. Much higher fire risk with utilizing the plug connection versus a hardwired connection, I believe this is well documented with other prominent TH-camrs.
I would also add that if you have a high amperage wall connector that you can still charge at a lower rate. B y lowering the rate you push less energy into the pack and it just extends the time. So in Andy's case of needing a 40% charge, he could lower the amperage from 48 AMPS to 20 AMPS and still have a full charge by 7 am. I personally set my car to charge at 18 AMPS because that comes out to 15 miles of range per hour of charging.
I dial down my Level 2 charger all the way down to 12 AMPS.
Please! A High CURRENT wall connector. Lower the CURRENT.
And ensure the outlet into which you ar plugged (if not directly connected to your breaker panel is a quality brand. No Leviton or anything other than HUBBELL.
@@The_DuMont_Network to further add to this - Hubbell 14-50 outlet is excellent but ensure it's an Industrial Spec. outlet. There are Residential, Commercial and Industrial. I've an industrial spec Hubbell 14-50 and unplug/plug daily for the past 2.5yrs with no issue.
@@Teslawalter I read a white paper earlier this year that suggested 30-32A at 240V was optimal as it didn't overheat the battery, and charged the battery quickly enough so it didn't need remain warm so long during longer charging sessions required for lower amperage/voltage sessions.
@@dpete5410 You should post the White paper.
There's been a lot of flip flopping.
Note, the newer Mobile Connectors now come with both the 110 V cord, and a 240 V (NEMA 14-50 plug). You can also buy the NEMA 14-50 if you already have the Mobile Connector from a few years ago when they did not come with that.
Put a meter on it and then try to tell me you only have 110 volts in the house socket.
The wall connecter is really nice to have AND I got a rebate from my local utility when I purchased it. That way I can keep the mobile connector in the car all the time. I actually have two Tesla's and installed two wall connectors running off the same breaker. They have a power sharing option where the talk to each other via wifi so they never exceed your breaker amperage, which is great.
Really informative video, Andy - thanks. FYI, my Tesla service center recommends "recalibrating" your Battery Management Unit every month or two months. This is done by charging to 100%, discharging to below 20%, then recharging to 100% again, which is then followed by normal driving and charging levels of 80%. They said doing this recalibrates the BMU controls on the car enabling it to make better estimates. Have you heard this before?
I took delivery of my 2024 MYRWD 2 weeks ago. As I was wrapping up my paperwork I was told that Tesla had just issued recommendation to charge the battery to 100% once per week to ensure the algorithms for battery management retain ability to charge to 100% of the battery capacity. I’ve tried to independently verify this information and have not been able to do so but what you just said synchs mostly with what they told me. But the once a month makes more sense. Regardless, it seems there is something to this.
Thanks for this. I find it's interesting the techs have similar recommendations. Perhaps Tesla should include this info in the app or on the Charging screen of the car. For the first two years I had my M3LR, the recommendation was 85% for daily driving. I had only one instance where the BMU went crazy; on a two-hour drive, the remaining charge level began to drop dramatically - like a leak in a gas tank. It freaked me out for a while, so I pulled over, put it in Park and rebooted the computer. When the car restarted, the BMU showed the correct percentage remaining. Now I reboot after every OTA update, just to be on the safe side.@@srmtn1
@@srmtn1 is this only for the newer lithium batteries or for the older Nci batteries also
@@srmtn1 because you have a RWD is has LFP battery chemistry, so 100% charge is fine, indeed recommended by Tesla
@@mikeforwarduk LFP charging to 100% is ONLY recommended because the BMS needs to be recalibrated -- Tesla doesn't want the BMS to over (or under) charge or over estimate the range available. Charging to 100% is bad (varying degrees) for ALL Lithium chemistries, LFP included. Unless you are going to make a trip where you need to know the battery's charge ~exactly, it's not a big deal. Most daily drivers can easily do what they need to do using the 20-80% range of their battery and decrease the degradation of their battery -- and never touch the parts of the charge where the calibration matters. Recalibrating once a month is entirely adequate for 95% of drivers.
Tesla now recommends NOT charging every day, and NOT keeping your battery pack at a high SoC. I recently had service done on my 2018 M3 and I was proudly telling the tech that I charged daily and was careful with the battery, and he told me this. He said the best practice is to charge to 80 or 85, then pull it down to 30 or below (percentages, of course) before charging. This utilizes the lower part of the pack which otherwise would always be charged and thus could affect the health of the cells. So I charge to 85 and drive to 25 or 20. I have done this from the beginning for my 2023 M3 and I hope the battery degradation will be minimal over the years. My 2018 has over 105,000 miles and it has lost 10-12% of range.
That's about as good as I would have expected under the best possible circumstances. And the rate of loss will still be slowing down all the time. I do the same, and can only hope it will be as good as yours.
Yep. I do the same. I use to always plug in but saw a lost of range due to the misbalance of the BMS. Since, I have gained back 11 miles of range.
You should understand there is no "lower part of the pack that doesn't get utilized" in your battery, it's not like a liquid filled tank, it's a battery with a state of charge measured in volts, not actually tank full of electrons. The charge is stored throughout the battery cell in layers upon layers of graphite and polyolefin. Not to mention, if you are taking the estimated range and dividing by the estimated SOC, that's very much only an estimate of battery degradation. The only accurate way to measure degredation is to have known the initial capacity of the pack in YOUR car (they are all slightly different) then fully charge and measure the capacity used on a full discharge. I designed li-ion batteries for the last 20 years, this is the only accurate way, not by using any type of electronic fuel gauge.
@@S2kDude36And as Nyland advises, drive the car until it stops moving to determine how much of the buffer has disappeared as the manufacturer tries to 'hide' the degradation.
Yeah… that’s not how any of that works. Lithion ions exist in a chemical solution, and at 50% SOC they are at equilibrium and relatively equidistant from both anode and cathode reducing chemical reactions at the electrodes. A battery is happiest at 50% charge and you want to maintain the band so that it is the most narrow around 50% what you were doing is increasing what’s called depth of discharge which is related to increased battery degradation.
Got mine 23 M3P a month ago. I’m happy to hear this it reinforces what I do. 12A no more than 80% I hardly drop below 55%. My driving habits (other cars also I own help) makes this trickle charge sufficient for me. I use the car 5-6 days a week as a DD
One problem with charging at too low amperage is that it keeps the battery temp higher for longer because it takes longer to charge. There is a trade-off between amperage and length of charge. I read a white paper earlier this year that suggested that 30-32A provides a good balance, charging the battery at low enough amperage to not overly heat the battery pack while charging, but charging it quickly enough that the battery doesn't remain at elevated temperatures for hours-on-end while charging.
I only use about 25% of my '23 MYLR battery pack on my commute, so I typically charge to 62% at 30-32A. When combined with scheduled charging, this keeps my average SoC at
The battery has an excellent cooling system 😊
Try not to stress to much on your battery guys, tesla makes a durable battery pack... had my myp for 2 years now, never had a problem... that's great that your concious about the battery but don't over whelp yourself... if you want to super charge super charge or if you want to charge slow do that too whatever makes you sleep better... these cars were designed to handle super charging..
@@dpete5410 actually, adjusting to lower current generates less heat, which in effect contribute to longer battery life. but then again, Tesla batteries are designed to last long.
The chart shown at 6:17 shows test results for battery *storage life* at different SOC levels and temperatures. It has absolutely nothing to do with battery charging (or discharging) rates.
I can confirm that charge speed doesn't affect battery capacity with a model S p90d with 130,000 miles of free supercharging. Keeping soc between 20-80% is key
He said there was no difference between level 1 and level 2 charging, but supercharging does degrade the batteries faster, maybe just not enough for someone to notice without an a-b comparison.
The way I look at it is if you work 8 hours a day 5 days a week that means you’re likely home most of the rest of your days so you have around 12 hours home per work day and then weekends. You can easily charge 240-300 miles during your 5 work days and then weekend anytime you’re home. The avg driver drives 12,000 miles a year which is about 230 per week. 120v is more than enough for the average person.
Plus if you can charge at work it’s even better.
And you pretty much summed up why most people don't want an EV. You literally can't just jump in the car and head to grandma's house 100 miles away because at 120v you will never get enough charging back to fit back into your schedule. You need a 240v at home to make an EV useable.
@@joecoolioness6399 it’s not a to. If money to install 240 though. And in those scenarios just stop and supercharger quickly
USed the Mobile charger on my Niro for the past 3 years. No issues. 95% of the time.
You are correct, Charging Lithium chemistries slower is a battery saver, Pushing the max amount of amps into the cells causes cathode swelling, this causes battery degradation. I've found this on stationary batteries which are the same concept....... LFP also does not like being charged to 100%, but if you compute the voltage needed to keep the cells in the flater part of the charge curve your LFP will last very very long.... With increased SOC's and High temps are a dendrite accelerator which is most certainly battery cell killers, sometimes even detonators....
You're discussing this seriously, what to do if you're driving on the highway and it's 105 degrees outside and you need to charge.
Do you suggest not going and staying at home? Or wait until the evening at the charging station to charge? I don’t live for this car, I bought it so that this car would serve me and not me for it. Tesla is a terrible car. I own a Tesla. and I know what kind of car it is. And also what kind of service they provide.
@@vivito352they just mean not every time. Once in a while is absolutely fine which is when you would be in these situations
Great video. All of what you said makes sense. I've been telling people the easiest way to protect your battery is to charge with a 120V outlet for a while now. Keep your battery above 30% (why PHEV's don't let you "EV only" below 30%) and below 80% excluding road trips. Let's be real. Most drivers are home >12hrs per day. That means 24 - 36 miles a day. If you're only home 12 hours a day using a 120V outlet. Most people are home longer than that. Most people drive about the American average of 37mi/day. That means you'd need to use a level 2 charger roughly 1 - 3 times per year. But no one wants to talk about the feasibility of 120V charging. It's not cool. It's not expensive. And it's something everyone can do as long as they aren't in an apartment that has no outside plugs. Then, Plugshare has tons of free level 2 charging you can easily charge your weekly drive in 3-4 hours once a week.
Hear, hear! Level 1 charging and occasional Level 2 works great!
Andy I would recommend that owners choose a HARD WIRED set up like I have with my Bolt. An outlet, especially a poor quality outlet is adds another variable that can go wrong with charging. I’ve seen many outlets melted due to poor outlets or under torqued lugs holding the leads down. For owners that install an outlet, the least you could do is double check the outlet occasionally (yearly) to make sure they are still torqued. Simply feeling it for heat can give you an early warning if there is a potential issue.
I have always been confused about people who will spend thousands on a car, but cheap out at the outlet that costs less than $100.
Hard wiring is preferred, but if you insist on plugging in, I strongly suggest looking for a receptacle that is "Hospital Grade". The retention strength of the metal inside the receptacle slots is much higher than the cheap ones.
Use the industrial duty Hubell one not DIY junk. One cost a lot more and has much better contacts and tension on blades of plug.
@@ghost307it cost me $1300 for the NEMA outlet
not a $100 expense
GREAT INFO.....thanks so much for the education. I've been researching for my first Tesla buy, and your videos are extremely well done and informative
I drove my 2014 P85+ Model S for 10 years before unfortunately totalling it in March, but saw less than 4% battery degradation over the life of the car by applying very similar charging practices as described here. Back in 2014, Teslas came with free Superchargering for life, but I only used it when necessary and preferred Level 1 and Level 2 charging for my daily driving. One thing not mentioned in the video is that Tesla allows you to reduce the amount of amperage drawn while charging, which perhaps further reduces heat. Being able to reduce amperage drawn is also helpful in situations where you might not be on a dedicated circuit and don't want to trip (or risk tripping) the breaker. I'll miss that beautiful OG Model S, but just took delivery of a Cybertruck a week ago.Too bad Tesla didn't include free Supercharging on the Foundation Series trucks (even though I don't plan to use the chargers much).
pretty sure it's not your fault, but 5:36 and additional 2:42 of not skippable advertisement before i can watch your 12:49 video? really, youtube?
The video as such is very informative and compact. Thanks and keep up the good work.
It’s the same thing as a phone, when you use fast charging it gets the battery hot. Over time it wears it out faster. I also noticed it doesn’t last as long during the day
If high summer temperatures are bad for supercharging a NCA battery, why does the trip software "precondition" the battery for fast charging at a supercharger? I presume the "preconditioning" means that the battery is warmed to accept a faster charge?
My 2018 Model 3 doesn't have as many miles (~80k), but I am at 95% of original battery capacity still. For the first 2 years, it was a high daily mileage driver (140 miles a day), but since 2020, it barely goes 200 miles a month. So I've been keeping it at about 55-60% SoC most of the time as my charge limits.
Same here. Keep it around 40-60% and it will last forever. ..
How did u check your battery health/ life ??
Because I have solar and Powerwall for home, Tesla allows me to charge 2022-MY Long Range(80%) and 2023-M3(100%) on "Solar Energy Only"(other than house usage). So, it is slow charging. In the morning I let the Powerwall recharge to at least 80% after overnight usage. Then let the solar charge the EV. I live in San Diego, where there are a lot of sunny days! Other than some winter days my house and EVs are totally off the grid. Keep in mind, make sure Powerwall has enough energy for your house during the high peak(price) hours, 5pm - 9pm.
Absolutely right, I've always followed that regimen with my early 2022 M3LR anyway, as it makes logical sense, and it's never gone over 90%, mostly 40-75% unless there's a specific requirement. Tbh, I don't think 100% charging is a great idea with LFPs either, and if I had one, I certainly would not be charging it more than 80-90% on a daily basis, whatever is said.
Charging to 100% may be needed, but in rare cases. Remember, if you do that, you will have NO or greatly reduced regenerative braking until you draw down the charge so you have some rooom for the energy to be stored.
@@The_DuMont_NetworkNot in cars like Tesla with a top buffer.
Great info, I put an extension from my dryer circuit, it is just 30 amps. I installed a 14 30 outlet with a plug in charging cable and it charges at 5.7 kW. It will charge the 78kWh battery overnight
Always love Andy’s videos, super informative, and keep my interest. Not gonna lie, he’s also easy on the eyes. 😊
How did you get your range score? Thank you for the great video!
I agree that 120 V charging can be sufficient for people who average less than 30-40 miles/day. Record your total milage for a week or two to see what your daily average is. If going that route, I highly recommend replacing the $0.64 "builders spec" outlet with a $1.89 "commercial grade" or "industrial grade" outlet. These outlets can handle the continuous high current needed for EV charging with less chance of burning or melting.
If the outlet ain't HUBBELL, it AIN'T. Get them from Grainger. Pay them now or pay MORE later.
@@The_DuMont_Network 👍
Thank you. I really needed this information!! Excellent!!
Great channel, learned so much…new Model Y owner
Using mobile connector, successfully on a nema 14-30 and sometimes on a regular outlet when traveling.
Wonderful informative video thank you! I just got the Y so trying to learn all about it 😊
Very well done. I'm a new owner and you provided some very valuable info in a clear and concise manner, thank you!
Hi Andy. Another great video. Don't know if you read these comments, but can you do a video primer on kWh/mi, Wh/mi, "reference consumption," and all the EV statistics that we need ro know? Thank you.
Hello,
I have a Model 3 Long Range, and I usually charge the car at the beginning of the week at 80%, and I spend about 6% per day. I get to the end of the week with about 50%, do you think I should wait until I reach 50% to charge or should I charge every day to the 80% limit?
Thanks for the great video.
I'd say wait until it reaches 20% and then recharge it back up to 80%. Less hassle and reduces the number of charging cycles.
@@devfaulteryour advice is the oposite of what tesla recomends
@@mihaifogoros3498 You're right. At the end of the day it's all about convenience. I do follow the official advice to rarely go above 80% or below 20%.
You should charge your car every single day, no matter how little battery you use. The less of the percentage of battery you cycle, the better.
@@devfaulter official advice is 100% wrong and they are hiding some very important details. The optimal charge limit for your battery is 55% limit and then you can use as much state of charge you want.
Plugging in every chance you get is better
Actually charging to 80% like tesla recommends will literally double your degradation vs. charge limiting to 55%. This has been proven by many lithium charging studies. Tesla sort of "lies" because they don't want you to know how many years your battery will last or that age is the main factor killing your battery. Charging cycles are insignificant wear on the battery by comparison.
I really appreciate this video. I have the same exact wall charger in my garage. We bought it for my wife’s Jeep Wrangler 4xe. We just brought the brand new Tesla Model 3 Performance home today. It is in the garage and ready to charge - but I first had to check out your video.
How is it m3 running ?
@@dingdong6005 - the car is very impressive! I’m a big fan.
I do the same thing with my Zero SR 11.4 motorcycle from 2014. Charging during the day from 35-40% to 80-85%. Works perfect. Mileage is kinda low, since I only bought it with 21000kms on it 1.5 years ago, range is still very good for such a bike. Yesterday I got almost 80kms out of 50% battery. Thats incredible for a 10kWh net capacity battery from 10y old! And it even was like 90% highway driving. This morning 70mph even.. (125kmh)
This is true, i even limit charge my phone until 85% for longevity of battery
Thank you Andy! This was very informative and easy to understand for me as a soon-to-be Tesla 3 (Highland) owner! Consider me subscribed 😉👍
Tesla provides the following recommendation in the section High Voltage Battery Information:
Model Y has one of the most sophisticated battery systems in the world. The most important way to preserve the high voltage Battery is to LEAVE YOUR VEHICLE PLUGGED IN when you are not using it. This is particularly important if you are not planning to drive Model Y for several weeks.
Do I understand correctly that it is better to always keep the vehicle plugged in whenever possible, and that I do not need to disconnect the car from charging even if the battery is fully charged to the specified limit?
Charge at 30% to 80% for daily use
Lots of good and sane advice Andy. Thank you.
How long does the mobile connector takes to charge Tesla X from 20% to 80%?
I’d say about 6 hours (x owner on 240v)
Good points Andy and thanks so much for your videos and time. I also feel it helps to decrease your amps to more of a trickle charge type charging. I have a 60 amp breaker (looks like you may also) and so I could charge at 48 amps (Tesla limits it to 80% of max) and get faster charging but I usually turn my amps down to 25-30 to sort of trickle charge..some people go lower and there is evidence that this helps battery health too. Thanks for all your research nd sharing
To eschew obfuscation, you decrease the "CURRENT", not "decrease your amps", or "turn my amps down".
And yes, a lower charge rate will decrease the temperature rise, with a concurrent salubrious effect on the battery.
@@The_DuMont_Network Yes, but you decrease the current by decreasing the amps (the rate of the current flowing) in your app or on your screen under charging. There is no adjustment in the app or on the screen where you "decrease the current". This was a discussion on practical things to do to keep your battery healthy. Charge to 80 %, charge in cool weather, turn the amps down on the same screen the charge limit is adjusted. Keeping it simple. Most Tesla owners know this, some new to EVs don't.
Amps is current, current is amps. Coulombs per second.
My wife and I have had 5 Teslas since 2019, three model 3s and two model Ys. I have followed all of these charging practices since the very beginning, and all of them ended up the same: roughly 10% capacity lost by 30k miles or so. I did keep the first model Y until about 45k miles, and it was the lowest of the bunch: just under 90% of original capacity. I am not sure how to reconcile when people report they have only lost 2% or even 5% as that is not our experience across a decent number of batteries. However - we do live in a really hot area, where temps can be over 100 degrees for over 1/3 of the year. That may be the only reason there is a discrepancy between what some people experience with degradation and what we have. Still, many times I am left wondering if all the effort to follow these rules really mattered. ie, my wife's model 3s were used a lot for traveling and did a decent amount of supercharging yet they did not degrade any better or worse than our other "home charged" cars. /shrug
Interesting. I suspect the hot temps could be the reason. How do you check battery degradation? I only have 22K miles on my 2021 LR Model Y and haven't noticed any degradation so far. But I haven't officially measured it.
@@LuKiSCraft Most simple would be to take the miles remaining and divide it by your current SOC. Our Model 3 LR currently reports 139mi remaining @ 42% SOC. 139/.42 = 330mi. that should be the 100% range. Since the car new was 353 miles, 330mi is ~94% of its original range. However, Tesla includes a buffer below zero in their total range which confuses things. I am not sure what that buffer is, but it might bump that 94% up another 3 or 4%. I actually go by the consumption meter, which as far as I know does include the below 0 buffer. I look at the 30 mile average, multiply wh/mi by estimatated range remaining, then divide it by the SOC. those numbers however are only estimates by the BMS, so usually the most accurate way is to drive or burn the battery down from 100 to 0 and measure how much energy was expended. but that's a lot of effort.
@@blanketwodahs6741 okay, yeah. If I do that, my LR Model Y (with Gemini wheels) says 305mi, down from 330mi EPA. So a 7.6% battery degradation after 22K miles. I'm pretty sure the rate of degradation slows down around 85% of original battery capacity (which is why Tesla sets their battery warranty policy to 80% of original capacity over 150K miles). Good news for us is most of the degradation is already in.
@@blanketwodahs6741 and TBH it is hard to notice this 7% degradation in the real world. I am still able to make it to my destinations without any noticeable difference in charging times / stops
To really see the battery degradation you should note it down how much it showed at 100% as brand new. Not all the batteries will have EPA range remaining showed at 100% as new.
I agree...slow charge is much more gentle on batteries... I am sure batteries will last much longer..and use middle range of charge not to high not to low.
I got a 2022 Model 3 Performance, i only charge at home or at work (we have free charging for employees). For my house I ran a 240 volt line from my dryer in the backmof my garage to the front next to the garage door and i also made a hole on the side wall to the outside and installed a small weather proof box over it on the outside. Then i bought a second portable charger and the correct adapter to plug it permanently on the new 240 volt outlet and have a small hook to hold the charger right there. If i want to charge insode the garage, i just use it. If i want to chatge outside, I pass the charger to the outside using the hole I made and charge outsode wothout having to open the garage door at all. I rather charge outside most of the time since I usually keep one of my cars in the garage (a sports car Nissan 300ZX). So the cable is usually rolled inside the box I installed outside. The only catch to my setup is that i cannot use the dryer and the charger at the same time as the line is not meant to be for that and the breaker would jump. But that is no problem for me since I charge over night at home and laundy is done on weekends during the day. And since i started to work on a new job, they have free charging stations for employees so I just charge there every day, barely use the charger at home. As for the charging habits, I always charge to 80%, my commute is short, so i spend about 5 to no more than 7% battery each way to work, plus another 3 to 5% for the Sentry mode while parked at work. Since I charge there, my Tesla barely sees 80%, about 3 to 4 hours per day only. The rest of the day and night is at about 70 to 75% average while parked at home. So 99% of my charging is Level 2 charging (240 volt). As for Superchargers, I only use them when needed while going on a trip which is not often as we usually use my wife mini van (Kia Carnival) since we have 3 kids. After 2 years of owning my Tesla, it os about to turn 10K miles on the odometer so it is practically new and the battery should be virtually in perfect conditions too go en the way I charge. Hopefully my next Tesla will have a better battery, and perhaps the one after it will have a solid state battery if that becomes the norm which I'm sure will happen. Then range will be probably close to 800 to 1K miles, charging will be done in a few minutes on Superchargers, and the battery will not suffer with full charge nor with very hot or cold weather due to the solid state of the electrolytes. By then, I would think in about 10 years or so, ICE vehicles will finally start to fade out as people will no longer have excuses since there will be no range anxiety nor weather anxiety. Cannot wait for such EVs to hit the ,arket, mostly, Tesla. Cheers.
Even though I don't own a Tesla (I have a 12 year old Leaf that lacks thermal control) if you baby the battery it will stay good a lot longer than warranty or the usual 10 year caveat. What do I mean by baby a battery: 1) I never have fast charged it even though I could, I've only done level 2 charging which is adequate given the Leaf's mileage limits; 2) keep the car garaged and less elements thermal change (if your battery lacks the active thermal control or you want to lessen the draw during down time); 3) if you full charge don't leave the battery at that state long (I always drive hard to make sure if at full charge to stay below 80% if short trip); and 3) for long periods (I'm talking a week or more) only keep that battery at or below 50% SOC. I'm still on my original battery after 12 years and from my original efficient driving range of 105 miles I'm now down to 65-70 miles and the battery indicates I can still fully charge it. Which is probably because given the Leaf's limited range are all short trips and I charge less frequently than most. In fact it is sort of ironic that my 12 volt accessory battery has been replaced 3 times so far.
So happy I got my Model Y right with the last mobile connectors as standard.
I am not up with all the technical details , but when i bought my Y ; 12 months ago I was going to install 3 phase and actually put the cable in the ground. After buying a Zappi charger (English) I was told I would be just as well off with single phase. Well I have had at least six months free charge on echo plus from sola. I have one advantage I am retired so I can leave my car charger on in inclement conditions and stiil get some charge, but we do have an advantage being in Western Australia.I have recorded a start date 1-09-2023 and intend to get 7 to 8 mnths of free charge at least.
A recent study found that supercharging doesn't affect battery health. Which kinda makes sense given the amount of engineering that went into supercharging.
Frequent supercharging will
Wall charger is best, I got it the moment I got the Tesla, was a no brainer. As well as upgrading my solar and adding a battery. No power bills!
Thank you this is very helpful 🙏🏻 😊
After the battery is done charging Is there voltage cutoff after you hit the desired 80%?
11:53 SIR!!! I live in Phoenix this is impossible 😥awesome video by the way!
The latest research shows their is no difference between Supercharging and low level charging on battery life.
"We compared cars that fast charge at least 90% of the time to cars that fast charge less than 10% of the time. In other words, people who almost exclusively fast charge their car and people who very rarely fast charge. The results show no statistically significant difference in range degradation between Teslas that fast charge more than 90% of the time and those that fast charge less than 10% of the time."
Recurrent.
Reply
'Police investigate themselves and find they did nothing wrong "
@@jebes909090😂
I wouldn't try it anyway as it's expensive. If I had a road trip maybe. My home is much cheaper and ready to go every morning.
@@erikescaletnot everyone has a grate fool
Awesome video 👍 so how do we know if our Tesla battery is a Nickle based battery or the other lithium kind ? & how do we check our battery "health"
I have a 2020 M3 and mainly charge with a level 1 charger, been able to manage that for 4 years
Absolutely right. I plan to do this when my life is as perfect as I want my car battery to be. Till then...
Great video by the way. Thanks for all the info.
It's also a good idea to not let the car reach the SOC limit you set. For instance, if you know when you'll be using the car, slow down the charging so it's close to getting done by the time you leave. Reason for this is when you let it sit without charging, vampire drain sets in, and that counts towards the battery cycling.
Wall Connector is easy to install, safe, quicker charge and you don't have to plug in and out repeatedly which is NOT good for a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. OH, and they don't melt. And they look COOL.
Andy I have the same Tesla model 3/year as you and I have always tried to follow your charging/battery recommendations. I hope to reach 200K also!
2022 MYP 30k 5.5% degradation. Dropped to that about year and half ago and has held steady
I've seen data and research that supports the idea, supercharging regularly (or even exclusively) vs. home charging is not a huge difference in terms of the longevity of the battery. So there are different studies with different datas showing opposite things?
Great info Andy, thanks!
Another thought is charging a EV in a climate controlled garage. I recently had a mini-split system installed in my garage, and keeping the garage between 50F in Winter and 80F in summer should help maintain good battery temperatures while parked/charging. I use a evse that came with WiFi and a phone app allowing me to set amperage from 6-40amps on 240v power. I usually charge at 16-20amps.
With your portable Tesla charger cable ... Do you charge at 32A or less???
respectfully I do not recommend the cheap $45 Nema outlet. Go ahead and spend $90 for the outlet. Plugging and unplugging the cable stresses the powerful 240 volt power outlet.
YUP… he ignored the technical specs for duty cycle and load ratings.
His house is now at higher risk for burning down due to electrical fire.
I leave mine plugged in 95% of the time. The only other use for the 220v is my welder, which I don't use that often.
Agree. Absolutely need a more robust outlet.
So none of you have a dryer? Cuz you're poor?
@@kikacruz4560 What a dumb comment.
Always cool to see Jeff Dahn on Tesla videos who lectures at my alma mater in a small town in Canada :)
Great information for Tesla owners that are looking to maximize the range and health of their battery.
If you are on a tight budget you would not own a Tesla, get the best connector for the intended use (likely get both). The wall connector is the way to go for home, especially in situations (like mine) where the wall connector lives outdoors. Also, the NEMA 14-50 outlet can be a (arcing) fire hazard especially if it is not a quality one (like most electricians would use) and you plug and unplug to bring it with you (because you cheaped out on connectors). The car has an 11.5kwh onboard charger get the solution that can use it. It seems insane to buy a $40k, $50k, $60k+ vehicle and then try to save $200 on a the charging hardware you use every day.
Thank you for making this pro informative video. Very helpful.
Thank you for another great video!
One thing you do not consider is the overhead cost of charging at diminishingly low rates. Just keeping the car awake while charging takes several amps at 110v (the contactors draw maybe an amp just keeping the battery connected, plus waking up the computers and "head"). You are drawing those amps for the duration of the charge. If you finish in 3 hrs vice 18, you are saving 15x whatever that parasitic loss is. Also, charging at a low rate doesn't warm up the battery significantly, so the resistance losses are higher.
Can you adjust the current draw for your level 1 charge rate? The last EV I rented gave me two options: 8 Amps,(960 watts) or 12 amps.(1,440 watts@120 volts). When I used level 2, the NEMA 14-50 plug, it pulled 30 amps,(7200 watts@240 volts) with no option to adjust. If it were possible, I would have chosen 12.5 amps, for an even 1,500 watts@120 volts. For maximum efficiency, I would measure the outlet voltage, and set the current so it doesn't cause any more than 3 volts of drop compared to unloaded voltage. The farther the outlet is away from the load center, the more voltage drop per amp of draw, just due to the extra length of wire from the breaker box to the outlet. Use an extension cord ONLY as a "last resort"!! An extension cord can greatly reduce your MPGe from "plug to pavement". What kind of extension cord, or even which outlet you choose to plug into can make a similar difference to your mileage per kWh, as adjusting tire inflation pressure. My cars built-in charger drew the same amperage, no matter what the supply voltage was. That amperage multiplied by voltage at the connector, is the ACTUAL wattage being supplied to the cars charging system. The more voltage drop, the lower the wattage, the longer it takes the charge, the more wattage drawn through the electric meter!
What is the preferred amperage for home charging?
Very helpful video😉✌️
Yea, be careful -- went with wall charger vs 14-50 install
14-50 requires industrial plug (Hummel or Bryant)- $50 to $80 depending on source
14-50 requires gfci breaker -- $100 more than regular breaker
14-50 requires a minimum of 6-3 vs 6-2 romex - for 35 feet was $41 more
14-50 requires double gang box and faceplate - $10
Thats ~$200 more to install a 14-40 vs a tesla wall connector.
And Georgia power gives you $150 rebate when you install an ev charger -- mobile connector doesn't count
Made sense to get tesla wall connector.
I have an older electrical panel, so the 50 amp gfci was closer to $170 bucks and was very hard to find -- Tesla wall connector was the better choice.
So 45 to 50% to 80% SOC every night is a good range? My wife’s model Y travels around 70 miles RT a day and this is her % range everything night
Great advice thanks for sharing this information.
Thanks Andy, love you videos
I have had my 2018 Model 3 for 5 years and mostly charge at home with a Tesla Wall Connector to 80%. I only use Superchargers when I am travelling. After 75,000 miles I still have 300 miles range when charged to 100%, so that's less than a 4% drop from the 311 mile range when new.
Same here. I also found that lowering the amperage in my wall connector to 15 AMPS to 25 AMPS and allowing a longer charge time was easier on the pack.
Do you keep the car always pluged when home? Even if the battery is at 80%?
As someone that lives in Texas, where it’s 100 degrees daily, with no wall charger this vid terrified me lol. And I’m stuck in this lease for another year 😓
If you use the mobile connector using an NEMA 14-50 240V outlet be sure you get an industrial rated and quality NEMA 14-50 and follow all codes and get an inspection.
Great info, Can you recommend a good extension cable for level 1 charging?
How did you get a grade on your battery? What did you use?,
Thanks for the super hot tip! I am moving to LA to my grandpas dated, empty rental he's kept for my mom (only child) and my siblings. I'll likely pay just utilities and I don't want to push him to let me install anything permanent. I will definitely try the mobile connector at home!
Sarah, if you are driving 70 milrd or less a day (commuting), you will be fine with a standard wall outlet. BUT ( MAJOR BUT ). Make sure the outlet into which you plug is not worn. If it doesn't take a little effort to plug in, get the outlet replaced with a commercial grade (like HUBBELL, not leviton, or any Ah So brand). Make sure the conenction is tight, and make sure the plug/outlet doesn't feel warm after a charge session.
If you can afford a higher current outlet and get the appropriate plug for your charging adapter (from Tesla),by all means do so. Even a 220V 20Amp Air
Conditioner outlet will make your setup more efficient.
And say Hello to Grandpa for me. I sure miss mine. And I'm a 76 year old grandpa.
@@The_DuMont_Network I have notifications on haha! Quick reply. I was already prepared to have to live on supercharging so I guess I will use the mobile connection as much as I can and SC as needed. All depends what job I end up with. Looking within 25 mile radius but in LA that could be a 1 hour 25 commute. I have the luxury of young grandparents (75-75) because they had my mom in college. Very sharp and good health
I came to the same realization, mobile connector + super chargers is plenty even in Idaho, which is more rural than most states.
No matter what you do battery will degrade as it is worn out. It's not a fuel tank. It's a reactor. A chemical reaction goes on it when you discharge it and the same in reverse when you charge it. Just like a combustion engine, it will ware out. But you burn the candle on both ends so to speak.
A deadly chemical reaction that produces toxic fumes
I used the mobile charger with the 110 outlet in my garage, with my model Y and kept it plugged all the time. It worked fine for the first few weeks but suddenly blew the breaker and stopped working. Thinking 110 charging is not Practical unless it’s on a dedicated circuit. So I installed a nema 14 - 50 problem solved.
Hi
Battery life is affected by years and numbers of charges/discharges cycles
So if we d’ont run too much every day, we reduce number of charges to provide longer battery life ???
Great advice on maximizing battery longevity! A few related points:
Level 1 charging is significantly less efficient than level 2, so you'll save a bit of money every year if you upgrade to level 2.
NEMA 14-50 outlets are designed for things that stay plugged in for years at a time. Many of the less expensive receptacles have been known to fail spectacularly when used for EV charging. A good quality Bakelite14-50 receptacle such as Hubbell is not cheap, so a hard-wired EV charger isn't actually that much more expensive, and it's significantly safer. Not only does it eliminate the receptacle as a point of failure, it also eliminates the possibility of arcing if you accidentally unplug it while charging an EV.
While Tesla's Wall Connectors can charge at up to 48 Amps, doing so requires a 60 Amp breaker and usually involves expensive cumbersome 4 AWG wire. It's often more practical to install it with a 50 Amp breaker with cheaper 6 AWG wire. The electrician will then configure it to limit charging to 40 Amps, which is still plenty fast for overnight charging. This should have a negligible effect on charging efficiency.
Scheduling charging to occur overnight is usually a good way to ensure your electricity comes from cleaner base load energy sources. So even if you don't save money by charging off-peak, it's still a good idea.
Trust nothing but Hubbell connectors from a local Electrical supply House. Leviton and others from Home Depot, Lowe's, etc are crap. Don't forget to torque to spec ALL connectors in the power panel once a year. Test with touchless thermometer before you do. My power company will disconnect my panel (remotely operated/monitored meter) so I can safely torque the input lugs. Takes less than minutes for them to respond.
And OBTW, make sure you don't have pointy screws (like sheetrock screws) securing the panel front. My brand new built house had them in the panel on day 1! City inspector had passed the panel. City Engineer had chats with both builder and inspector, builder paid for fix and reinspection by independen inspector.
I specified a 48A, 11.5kW wired Juicebox charger for quicker level 2 charging. There is zero difference in battery degradation between 16A and 48A charging.
In fact, there are YT videos proving 100% DC Fast charging has little to no effect on battery health. But never keep your battery above 90% or below 10% for a long time.
You can use #6 THHN copper wire in conduit for a 60A breaker running 48A continuously if wire length is not very long. For very short lengths, I’ve seen electricians use 8 gauge.
@@johnpoldo8817 There are indeed scenarios where maxing out the current doesn't cost any more, in which case I say go for it! I agree faster AC charging is just fine for the battery.
@@The_DuMont_Network good advice!
I recently bought a tesla. 450 to install an outlet for 14-50 plus the wall connector 250. Versus 450 to install the tesla charger (450 minus the 250 SRP rebate). With the rebate, it actually didn't cost that much more. During the install, the technician told me the 14-50 nema tends to burn out, he had to change so many of them recently. After install I discovered my tesla only can charge 32A compared to the advertised 48A for the tesla charger. Either way both option probably would have offered only 30-35 mile per hour.
Another tip: on the 14-50 NEMA, if you charge at night, trickle charge at 20 amps rather than the allowed 32 amps since youll have 6-8 hours while you sleep.
My 15 month old '22 Model Y has 10k miles on it and has suffered only 2-3% battery degradation. I do 99% of my charging at home, and maintain the battery between 40-75%. I hardly never charge to 80%. There needs to be massive *level-2 charging garages* _for people without home EVSE,_ where they can leave their car for a few hours !
My job is 30 miles away from my house and I also have to drive to clients houses. I’ll get back home with barely 20% after driving about 80 miles in one day. Being charged from home at 80%. The range doesn’t make sense how people talk about it only if you drive in the city but not on highways. It’s quite inconvenient for me and the days I have to drive up to clients that are 50 miles away from me I’ll get home with 5% if I don’t charge at 100% the night before. The range cool-aid is a bit of a lie. The car doesn’t drive more than 130-160 miles really before you have to charge it. Not 260-300.
Do you have a long range?
Hey. Thanks for the info!
Question:
Charging over 80% (let’s say 95%)
VS Supercharging 10-20% @ the halfway point so that the car arrives @ home with over 20%??
Which one saves the battery more?
Thanks😊