FYI those about to buy the micro swiss NG. Before you dismantle the old hotend you might want to check two things first. To confirm the new extruder motor works before you set everything up, warm up the existing hotend. Unplug the existing extruder motor cable and connect the new one with the provided extension cable. Using the screen extrude a few mm's. If the gears turn IT WORKS!!! Second, E Steps. Again while everything is warmed up take a spare piece of filament, at least half a metre. Feed it into the new NG until a little bit comes out at the end. Remember this is before you fit the hotend. Trim off the part coming out as close to the hole as possible. Now extrude 100mm. You won''t get 100m out but that does not matter. When the gears stop cut that piece off as close to the hole as possible. Measure it. Might be around 25mm. Now go to the screen, get to E steps and write down that number, EG 92. Using a calculator or lots of fingers. enter the existing e steps number like this 92.00 divided by the measurement you got, .23 = 400. This is your new e steps calculation. Existing reading/new reading = E steps. Change the e steps number on your screen and SAVE IT! REMEMBEBERRRRR SAVE IT!!!!
Yep as he says make sure you do the E step calibration mine on a different printer was slightly under extruding at 400 it had issues printing the first layer with the default 400 i had to set m92 e417 with standard PLA. I noticed with the retraction test tower, the higher you retract above 1or 2 the more stringing, this was the opposite of the old boden setup i had. FYI for anyone who has two fans or wants to run Noctura fans there are a couple STLs out there for multiple cooling fans. Loving this NG head sofar.
Thank you Chris for a great video. It's time to upgrade our trusty Ender 3 to direct drive. As always you cover things as an experienced printer would, and your knowledge base is 2nd to none !!
Great video as always, just fitted one of these, and I'm having trouble with heat creep. Thought I might have fitted the hot end fan the wrong was round but it's fitted the same as in your video.
@@ChrisRiley cheers for the reply, I sorted the issue, my slicer software had defaulted back to the std retraction distance, once I swapped it back to 1mm all was good :-)
Thank you for the detailed review. I'll be installing this shortly. Do you have any tips on what you've done to further tune this is? You mention a few times that more tuning is needed, what wood you recommend? Thank you
I would first run a E step calibration to make sure you are getting the right amount of filament. Then start dialing in retraction with a retraction print test.
Have you ever thought about doing a caparison video of direct drive units. I put a BiQu H2 on my CR-10s because of its size and weight. I had not seen the Micro swiss NG when looking for a direct drive unit. I looked at several others also but went with the H2. Would be interested to see someone do a comparison video of the options for upgrading to a direct drive. Thanks for the info on this setup.
Interesting setup. My main thought through most the video was - Bummer that they didn't address that tiny part cooling fan, and upgrade it. Admittedly, parts did appear to suffer any obvious cooling issues. But my jaw dropped when that X60 Benchy completed! No small feat!
Is it possible for you to conduct a quality test between this extruder system and the E3d Hemera using super old PLA or wet PETG? I have the Hemera on my E3 pro and the Micro swiss DD on my E5 & E5+. I have found that the Hemera will feed anything but the Microswiss DD is a bit more picky.
I bet you are sick of printing benchies:) Thank you for your fascinating and extremely well filmed and lighted reviews. One of the few 3d printing subscriptions I watch from beginning to end.
Don't bite my head off if I'm mistaken but I'm pretty sure you mounted the hot end fan backwards. The wires should be in the upper right corner when the printer is facing you.
Very interesting, I looked at their information and this seems to be only for the wheeled carriage, would be interesting to see if they have a version for a MGN12 linear rail.
How long did you dry your TPU for? A lot of people don't realize TPU cannot be stored in the open and really should be printed from a dry box of sorts. Thanks for the review, this looks nice!
The lever moving back and forth at 18:28 is conserning me. That means that something isnt moving 100% centric inside the gearbox. That leads, in the worst case, to inconsistent extrusion. Hmmm.
2:52: Best angle! Thats exactly what I was looking for - never seen a better fitting to the gearing for flexibles. :))) It also seems to be the most durable extruder ive seen so far - its heavy though :/
Thank you for the years of informative videos, unboxing and reviews. I'd like to start 3d printing (I'm a tech guy) watching tons of your vids. Are you willing to give your top 3 rig recommendations for beginners to buy under $1K? Creality Ender 3/5 Plus; Anycubic; Elegoo... doesn't matter just make sure I have marbles and rubber bands?
That was one amazing X60 Benchy! This seems like a really nice extruder and I am honestly tempted to get a $99 Ender3 from Microcenter and immediately upgrade with this $120 extruder. That would be a killer machine for ~$220! I am also really tempted to use this on some non-Creality machines as well! At first glance I was concerned about heat creep, but that large aluminum backplate should prevent any issue with the smaller-looking fins.
I've just mostly adapted one onto a Geeetech A10M. It does not fit that well, lots of bits have to be changed or modified..... but it's currently up and running very nicely. I'd recommend you stick with the Ender 3 as a base printer to save your sanity :D
looks like a nive "droppin kit" not sold on the part cooling. two side cooling is a must for me. I do have to give them credit for not reducing build volume.
@cas curse no matter its not for me. i tried the micro swiss all metal on my cr10 and i couldn't stop it from heat creep. went a higher cfm fan either i couldn't extrude or it would clog in the heat sink. could have been my extruder but went with a direct drive when i swapped out the micro swiss
what is the shroud made out of? it's almost the same weight as the bigtree H2 but we all know how many problems there are with bigtree. I love my microswiss hotend, I haven't had a single problem with it. my bigtree h2 schemes to have problems all the time maybe I'll switch to this one
I'd like to try this with my Palette 3 pro. Short filament path is key to prevent clogging or jamming at a splice. I might have to try this out. Thanks Chris.
@@ChrisRiley I just got this today. IDK why this is. But it says e-steps should be 400. But my first print was horrible I tuned it and got to about 830. But for some reason my benchy just looks like garbage. Maybe I can send you a couple pics and u could take a look and give a little advice if you have time?
Great, informative, helpful video. Hopefully Micro Swiss starts sending them to their Canadian distributors soon so I can get one to try on my CR-10 S4.
Thanks for the video. Very informative as usual I received an email from Micro-Swiss on this product. I presently have a Micro-Swiss all metal hot end which has been a very good upgrade. I may upgrade to an NG in the future. Dave.
I have an Ender 5 that I am looking to upgrade to the Micro Swiss NG. I've upgraded it to run Klipper. Do you have a guide on configuring the extruder stepping for Klipper? It seems to be measured differently in Printer config file, compared to Marlin, which uses steps/mm
Any idea on settings for "printer.cfg" when using Klipper? For both extruder settings and the BL Touch to nozzle offset (using the bracket from Thingiverse from the instructions for my Ender 3). All of the instructions I've seen for this direct drive extruder is for Marlin firmware. I know I'll be able to measure and figure out the X and Y offset for the BL Touch probe to nozzle, but with an infant son at home, I have limited time to work on my printer without upsetting my wife. It would be nice to copy and paste these details or type it in without having to do all the measuring.
I really appreciate your videos Chris, even when it's an upgrade for a machine I don't even posses. I presume that you cannot print as fast (if you were going for speed rather than quality) with this upgrade because of the mass of the direct drive compared to the original hotend?? Have you tried a speed comparison? What slicer do you use? I user ideaMaker which I can highly recommend. Thanks.
Thanks! Yeah, adding some weight like this could slow you down some. I am still using Prusa Slicer, I need to get more time on Ideamaker a lot of people really like it.
Highly considering ordering one of these, but I've got a question. I've got a 1st gen Ender 3 pro with a knockoff BMG extruder and stock hotend which prints really decent quality PLA+ at up to 110mm/sec. Can I expect to get close to 100mm/sec without ringing appearing on the prints? Thanks!
Which reseller did you get the torque tool from. I looked on there site and was having a bit of trouble. Finding someone that has it listed for sale. I called a supplier down south but they only had Ruby nozzles etc.
Also the fan is blowing from both sides. The only stoping me is the price. I dont want to replace my 60 dollar hot wnd with direct drive for now. But looks amazing.
2:32 unique solution but i dont see the improvment or what benefit try versus actuals solution. That unique and complex shape make it expensive part to replace. Bontech LGX for me make it better this time.
Me again. Word to the wise. Print at least two cr touch mounts at 100% infill. It is very awkward to fit a cr touch on this thing. The one and only mount I printed before installing this broke and now I can do nothing except put my old hotend back. Which is a no go. So, I have managed to use my old cr touch mount that came with the touch. I intended to print another mount that will properly fit the NG. However, I keep getting "Home XYZ first on the screen" or "Too far" meaning that the hotend is in the wrong position but how do I get it in the right position? I can adjust the Z until I am blue in the face but getting the X & Y is baffling. I have reset to defaults. Moved the carriage this way and that way. Homed a hundred times. Bed is perfectly level. I can manually move the carriage and set the home settings but whenever I try to print I get "Too Far" again. Grrrrrr
Just ordered mine. The stock ender3 is a PLA only machine. Let's be realistic about that. So I am doubleing the cost of my machine in hopes that I can finally get decent PETG prints.
Hey Chris! Loving your videos man, good job and please keep them going. I'm debating upgrading to this same setup on the ender 3v2. I'm curious if you've found the need to add a second z axis motor or if it's been running fine on the single even with the added weight.
Wow, wish I would have waited till after I saw this. I bought an orbiter and a dragon hotend and all kinds of fans and crap and even with some shopping around for the best price I paid more....not to mention the fact that its all sitting in a parts drawer waiting for me to print a massive shroud and get off my butt to install it. The real problem is that the printer is running so well that I'm not really bothered with it right now.
Thank you. I just upgraded to the swiss ng and was having issues with my print. i did the calibrations steps and found out that my linear advanced was way off. Beautiful print now. I'm so excited. Thank you for your informative video!
So I've got this thing running and tuned, my esteps are at 434mm and it prints great with Gyers, ran two excellent benchies and one very nice mini. Ran into my first issue today, I can not load new filament into it. Everything is functioning as expected. Am I missing something?
@@ChrisRiley yes really hard. That's what I'm thinking a piece of pla is blocking it. It grips the very end of the filament but wont pull it through. ill keep you posted on what i find for future reference.
Have you tested the bondtech lgx or lgx lite? Both are monsters at flexible filaments, even in bowden configuration. The lgx has so much filament grip, even at 1 amp current it wont grind (has the same total reduction like a bmg oder microswiss ng, esteps are 400)
this is really nice hotend extruder combo, but I always aske myself how do you spend mony on an upgrade that is as expensive and maybe more expensive than the printer. should you buy a different printer then?
I just installed this hotend because it looked fun. Now it's producing weird clicking sounds during retraction moves (retractions testet from 1mm to 0.3mm with speeds from 45mm/s to 35mm/s). Had anyone else this problem? And nope the extruder isn't slipping. The extrusion is fine. It's just annoying.
Not sure how bad yours is click, but mine does seem to be a little clicky-er than most. Not sure if it's slop in the shaft or what. It doesn't seem to impact anything, but it is annoying.
@@ChrisRiley i'll upload a recording of the noise. Also sent it to Micro Swiss to see what they have to say. All in all i have to say: my old upgraded bowden setup outperforms the Micro Swiss NG easily when it comes to PLA/PETG/ Harder TPU. But i have to say that i used an EZR struder, a good stepper at the extruder, some good Sunon and Noctua fans and a Slice Engineering bitmetal heatbreak. All together still cheaper than the Micro Swiss but with better quality.
@@ChrisRiley This is the extruder during the pront of a retraction test: th-cam.com/users/shortstflCsghU3y0?feature=share It doesn't sound as loud in the video as it is in reality. You might have to crank the volume up a little bit.
Hi Chris - I have been hunting around looking for a nozzle tool. I checked with Micro Swiss and they recommended 3.4NM or 30 in lbs of torque on their all metal hot ends. They sent me a link to a tekton 10-150 in lbs torque wrench. I seem to be coming across so much conflicting information. Recommendations of 0.5 N all the way to 3.4 N. What is your experience and do you have an opinion on a tool that can function well with different hot ends?
Thank you for the review. Do you think it's good enough to clone? I always wonder how long it will take for someone to clone something like this if its good enough to copy. Great video.
For $120 they couldn't at least bump the fan to a 5015/5020? Considering they are ducting this into a dual.. that seems like a requirement. I hope they update the shroud design and consider including a better 24v fan, also no real integral strain relief for the cables either.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for making the content, to be clear it was informative and I enjoyed learning about it. Just nitpicking about their price point for a design that carries over previous cooling issues.
23:04 I have never printed a successful benchy. My first one failed. I adjusted my steps and printed a single layer test pattern. Never tried another benchy. Seems like a waste of plastic.
I do try to power down before I unplug the motors, it’s the smart thing to do, but I have pulled them hot many times and have never had an issue. I guess it’s just luck, eventually it will run out.
@@ChrisRiley I'm still going to try it but I can't get a clean filament path and it underextrudes. Even when I swapped the ms with a stock m6 so there is a Teflon coated tube right down to the nozzle. I suspect I got a bad motor because I have it slightly under the rated current. Oh well
@@ChrisRiley you need not be sorry as well. You have one of the best channels and you are not swayed by corporate foolishness. You're also a fellow metal head. Listen to colors 2 my man.
Call me a pedantic ( _actual_ ) Swiss but that shiny Aluminium Mount _specifically_ made for a *_black_* powder coated / anodized 3D Printer is _kinda_ rubbing me the wrong way 🤨 Btw... Something that has been bother me for like _forever_ with those Enders is the lack of a 2nd Z-Axis Motor... Have you ever considered testing the accuracy of it during fast movements with something like a Dial Gauge Indicator? 🤔
Check out the belted ender z mod, uses the same single motor but uses two belts instead of 1 z screw. Seems to work wonders so far. Kevinakasam is the one who published it, and there is a kit!
And again a new, nicely engineered extruder without angled teeth on the gears. Just design the filament drivin gears bigger, angle the teeth and get rid of artifacts caused by mechanic!
Hi Chris, i've just seen your video named: Marlin Unified Bed Leveling (th-cam.com/video/ONpKxkil16Q/w-d-xo.html) and get a little confused about a few things, hope you can answer to me. 1- Is it the same procedure with the latest Marlin version (2.0.9.3)? 2- How can I upload the firmware through a flash memory card instead via USB? 3- Do I have to change the same parameters for a Bl touch? If you could answer this I would be very grateful.
Hello, UBL hasn't changed much, so yes it should be the same. 2, it depends on the board, if it's 8bit USB is your only option. Yes, change the same stuff for BLtouch, instead of fixed prode use BLtouch.
I agree, it's the weak point in my micro swiss. Am looking at direct drive, and see here there is a slot for the screw now? We are going to grind a small indent into our heat break. Thank you for posting !
FYI those about to buy the micro swiss NG. Before you dismantle the old hotend you might want to check two things first. To confirm the new extruder motor works before you set everything up, warm up the existing hotend. Unplug the existing extruder motor cable and connect the new one with the provided extension cable. Using the screen extrude a few mm's. If the gears turn IT WORKS!!! Second, E Steps. Again while everything is warmed up take a spare piece of filament, at least half a metre. Feed it into the new NG until a little bit comes out at the end. Remember this is before you fit the hotend. Trim off the part coming out as close to the hole as possible. Now extrude 100mm. You won''t get 100m out but that does not matter. When the gears stop cut that piece off as close to the hole as possible. Measure it. Might be around 25mm. Now go to the screen, get to E steps and write down that number, EG 92. Using a calculator or lots of fingers. enter the existing e steps number like this 92.00 divided by the measurement you got, .23 = 400. This is your new e steps calculation. Existing reading/new reading = E steps. Change the e steps number on your screen and SAVE IT! REMEMBEBERRRRR SAVE IT!!!!
Great tips, thank you!
The steps set at 400 are included in the instructions now, mine ended up at 412.4 after calibration.
Yep as he says make sure you do the E step calibration mine on a different printer was slightly under extruding at 400 it had issues printing the first layer with the default 400 i had to set m92 e417 with standard PLA. I noticed with the retraction test tower, the higher you retract above 1or 2 the more stringing, this was the opposite of the old boden setup i had. FYI for anyone who has two fans or wants to run Noctura fans there are a couple STLs out there for multiple cooling fans. Loving this NG head sofar.
Awesome, thanks for the comment. I really do like the design glad you like it as well.
Mine on my CR-10S was 409 for E-steps and settled on 1 for retraction
Nice to see you reviewing and supporting local, well-made, innovative offerings.
Thank you. I enjoyed making this video
Great in-depth review Chris!👏
I was curious about this one.
Glad it was helpful!
That is a creative approach to extruder/hot-end, and looks like it does a great job. Good choice of Benchy Timelapse music too. A real toe-tapper! :)
Thank you very much!
@@ChrisRiley as of today microswiss has released the new Micro Swiss NG REVO Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 / Ender 3 Printers
Just received mine. Your video is the most clear and easiest to follow for how I like to learn. Thank you!
Thanks so much, I'm happy to help!
Thank you Chris for a great video. It's time to upgrade our trusty Ender 3 to direct drive.
As always you cover things as an experienced printer would, and your knowledge base is 2nd to none !!
Thank you
I wish they had this when I initially bought mine as the one I have no longer homes correctly.
NG is is really cool design. I hope to adapt it to other designs in the future.
love the you're fired from BTTF that you have framed! Great video
Thanks!
Mines ordered and on the way. I've a fair few other upgrades in pipeline too. I'm enjoying the adaptability of the Ender.
Tinkering is the best part! Thanks
Great video as always, just fitted one of these, and I'm having trouble with heat creep. Thought I might have fitted the hot end fan the wrong was round but it's fitted the same as in your video.
Thanks! I would contact MicroSwiss there shouldn't be any issues with heat creep.
@@ChrisRiley cheers for the reply, I sorted the issue, my slicer software had defaulted back to the std retraction distance, once I swapped it back to 1mm all was good :-)
So glad you got your hands on one, was curious as well with the side feed ! Thanks for another great inside view , stay safe Chris.
Thanks, you too!
Thank you for the detailed review. I'll be installing this shortly. Do you have any tips on what you've done to further tune this is? You mention a few times that more tuning is needed, what wood you recommend? Thank you
I would first run a E step calibration to make sure you are getting the right amount of filament. Then start dialing in retraction with a retraction print test.
Chris you Rock 🍻
Chris Rock
Thanks!
Have you ever thought about doing a caparison video of direct drive units. I put a BiQu H2 on my CR-10s because of its size and weight. I had not seen the Micro swiss NG when looking for a direct drive unit. I looked at several others also but went with the H2. Would be interested to see someone do a comparison video of the options for upgrading to a direct drive. Thanks for the info on this setup.
Good idea, I'll look into it
Interesting setup. My main thought through most the video was - Bummer that they didn't address that tiny part cooling fan, and upgrade it. Admittedly, parts did appear to suffer any obvious cooling issues. But my jaw dropped when that X60 Benchy completed! No small feat!
Thanks for your comment
There's a 5015 shroud on thingi
I saw this a couple of weeks ago and wondered how it would work. Thanks for the review, good job!!
Thanks Dean.
Is it possible for you to conduct a quality test between this extruder system and the E3d Hemera using super old PLA or wet PETG? I have the Hemera on my E3 pro and the Micro swiss DD on my E5 & E5+. I have found that the Hemera will feed anything but the Microswiss DD is a bit more picky.
Interesting, maybe, I have been meaning to do some more PETG tests. I will have to do some extruder test with it.
Great review on this. I ordered one last week can't wait to put it on my ender3 V2.
Thank you
Nice one again Chris!!! One thing I'd do is, to add a second Z motor and a lead screw to support the X on the right side with all that extra weight.
Thanks!
I bet you are sick of printing benchies:) Thank you for your fascinating and extremely well filmed and lighted reviews. One of the few 3d printing subscriptions I watch from beginning to end.
NEVER!!! Thanks for watching 🙂
Don't bite my head off if I'm mistaken but I'm pretty sure you mounted the hot end fan backwards. The wires should be in the upper right corner when the printer is facing you.
:) I did have it flipped at one point in the video, I corrected it later. It's easy to get it on there incorrectly.
@Chris Riley That's good to know. I will be installing mine this week so I'm glad I know which way it goes.
You can actually do away with the extruder cable by swapping the two center pins on the existing cable
Thanks for the tip!
Very interesting, I looked at their information and this seems to be only for the wheeled carriage, would be interesting to see if they have a version for a MGN12 linear rail.
Thanks Dave, I am sure Micro Swiss will have different options soon. The MGN12 should be a no brainer for this one.
Talked to Micro Swiss last week, linear rails is the next variation
Great vid, thank you!. I wonder if they'll end up with a kit for the E5 and E5Plus. They aren't as talked about as the newer enders any more.
We shall see, thanks
This would easily work on the E5P, you just need to print some belt attachment points.
How long did you dry your TPU for? A lot of people don't realize TPU cannot be stored in the open and really should be printed from a dry box of sorts. Thanks for the review, this looks nice!
This green stuff I dried for like 8 hours and pulled it from my dry box right before this print. I think it's just too far gone. Thanks for watching!
The lever moving back and forth at 18:28 is conserning me. That means that something isnt moving 100% centric inside the gearbox. That leads, in the worst case, to inconsistent extrusion. Hmmm.
Thank you
2:52: Best angle! Thats exactly what I was looking for - never seen a better fitting to the gearing for flexibles. :))) It also seems to be the most durable extruder ive seen so far - its heavy though :/
Thanks for your insight and thanks for watching!
Great video Chris! It was good to see you at RRTF. Where did you get that took to tighten the nozzle?
Thank you! Good to see you! That is the Olsen tool, not sure if you can still get them. olssonline.com/the-olsson-nozzle-tool/
Excelent video in your opinión with is the best option Microswicht NG or Sprite Pro Kit. Thanks
I don't know about the Sprite, but I really like the NG, very well made.
Wow impressive extruder combo
Great video as always
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us 🙂
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for the years of informative videos, unboxing and reviews. I'd like to start 3d printing (I'm a tech guy) watching tons of your vids. Are you willing to give your top 3 rig recommendations for beginners to buy under $1K? Creality Ender 3/5 Plus; Anycubic; Elegoo... doesn't matter just make sure I have marbles and rubber bands?
LOL, love it! Really, if you want t just print, I would still look at the Prusa MK3, it's still the best bang for the buck in my opinion.
That was one amazing X60 Benchy! This seems like a really nice extruder and I am honestly tempted to get a $99 Ender3 from Microcenter and immediately upgrade with this $120 extruder. That would be a killer machine for ~$220! I am also really tempted to use this on some non-Creality machines as well! At first glance I was concerned about heat creep, but that large aluminum backplate should prevent any issue with the smaller-looking fins.
Thanks for your insight
I've just mostly adapted one onto a Geeetech A10M. It does not fit that well, lots of bits have to be changed or modified..... but it's currently up and running very nicely.
I'd recommend you stick with the Ender 3 as a base printer to save your sanity :D
Do they still sell the regular Ender 3? I can't find it on their website.
@@BrawndoCorporation The $99 deal is for an Ender 3 Pro actually
I adjust the eccentric nuts until I can't move the wheels without the carriage moving, but it still rolls smoothly. Seems to be great
👍🙂
looks like a nive "droppin kit" not sold on the part cooling. two side cooling is a must for me. I do have to give them credit for not reducing build volume.
@cas curse no matter its not for me. i tried the micro swiss all metal on my cr10 and i couldn't stop it from heat creep. went a higher cfm fan either i couldn't extrude or it would clog in the heat sink. could have been my extruder but went with a direct drive when i swapped out the micro swiss
Thanks for your insight. I was impressed with the build volume part too.
@@rmfberry261 you are doing it wrong if you get heat creep on an all metal hotend.
what is the shroud made out of? it's almost the same weight as the bigtree H2 but we all know how many problems there are with bigtree. I love my microswiss hotend, I haven't had a single problem with it. my bigtree h2 schemes to have problems all the time maybe I'll switch to this one
I think it's ASA, doesn't feel hard enough to be PC.
Looks like a great upgrade! I am curious about the long term usability, so maybe an update video in 6 months or so after a few 100 hours of printing?
That's a good idea, I'll look into it.
it's nearly been 6 months, how's it holding up?
What slicer are using?
If you had it to do over again, would you buy this with the micro swiss all metal hot end, or upgrade to the $150 Ng with a Revo hot end?
For me, I don't have a lot of Revo stuff yet, so I haven't realized the benefits yet.
I'd like to try this with my Palette 3 pro. Short filament path is key to prevent clogging or jamming at a splice. I might have to try this out. Thanks Chris.
Cool, let us know how it goes.
@@ChrisRiley I just ordered this morning
@@ChrisRiley I just got this today. IDK why this is. But it says e-steps should be 400. But my first print was horrible I tuned it and got to about 830. But for some reason my benchy just looks like garbage. Maybe I can send you a couple pics and u could take a look and give a little advice if you have time?
@@toddcoello6461 Yeah, send me some pictures. brotherchris81@gmail.com
Great, informative, helpful video. Hopefully Micro Swiss starts sending them to their Canadian distributors soon so I can get one to try on my CR-10 S4.
Thanks!
I have the Petsfang Blokhead fan that uses the 5015 fan. Will I still be able to use this with the NG? Or will I need to print a new fan shroud?
You would have to work up something different to get it to fit.
I just bought the Biqu H2 for one of my 5+ and now I'm thinking should I have gotten the NG instead.
I hate it when that happens.
Thanks for the video. Very informative as usual I received an email from Micro-Swiss on this product. I presently have a Micro-Swiss all metal hot end which has been a very good upgrade. I may upgrade to an NG in the future.
Dave.
Let us know what you think.
Glad you could share this info...
Thank you, I was excited about the one.
Nice review and a clever bit of engineering from MS.
Glad you liked it!
I have an Ender 5 that I am looking to upgrade to the Micro Swiss NG. I've upgraded it to run Klipper.
Do you have a guide on configuring the extruder stepping for Klipper? It seems to be measured differently in Printer config file, compared to Marlin, which uses steps/mm
Yes, it is very different and I have touched on it before, but not deep dives. Check this out. th-cam.com/video/EDtcVzVLVi8/w-d-xo.html
Chris, do they have mounting parts to fit this to a Prusa MK3s ? Thank you for sharing this with us all.
Not yet, but I bet you will see it soon. You're always welcome John!
Any idea on settings for "printer.cfg" when using Klipper? For both extruder settings and the BL Touch to nozzle offset (using the bracket from Thingiverse from the instructions for my Ender 3). All of the instructions I've seen for this direct drive extruder is for Marlin firmware. I know I'll be able to measure and figure out the X and Y offset for the BL Touch probe to nozzle, but with an infant son at home, I have limited time to work on my printer without upsetting my wife. It would be nice to copy and paste these details or type it in without having to do all the measuring.
Hey Ron, I wish I could help you, I don't know them right off hand. I would bet if you emailed MS they would know right away.
I really appreciate your videos Chris, even when it's an upgrade for a machine I don't even posses.
I presume that you cannot print as fast (if you were going for speed rather than quality) with this upgrade because of the mass of the direct drive compared to the original hotend?? Have you tried a speed comparison? What slicer do you use? I user ideaMaker which I can highly recommend. Thanks.
Thanks! Yeah, adding some weight like this could slow you down some. I am still using Prusa Slicer, I need to get more time on Ideamaker a lot of people really like it.
@@ChrisRiley What's the Print and Travel speed that you settled on for the NG?
Highly considering ordering one of these, but I've got a question. I've got a 1st gen Ender 3 pro with a knockoff BMG extruder and stock hotend which prints really decent quality PLA+ at up to 110mm/sec. Can I expect to get close to 100mm/sec without ringing appearing on the prints? Thanks!
It's pretty light weight. I would think you could do about the same as the BMG.
Which reseller did you get the torque tool from. I looked on there site and was having a bit of trouble. Finding someone that has it listed for sale. I called a supplier down south but they only had Ruby nozzles etc.
I got mine from olsen, but it looks like they are currently hard to get. olssonline.com/the-olsson-nozzle-tool/
Also the fan is blowing from both sides. The only stoping me is the price. I dont want to replace my 60 dollar hot wnd with direct drive for now. But looks amazing.
It's a great upgrade. Thanks for your comment
2:32 unique solution but i dont see the improvment or what benefit try versus actuals solution.
That unique and complex shape make it expensive part to replace. Bontech LGX for me make it better this time.
I have yet to try the LGX, it's on my list.
Any increase in the hot end temp from the normal bowen temps? I heard all metal extruders can cause this to vary
It shouldn't be an issue, you will want to do the normal PID tuning and things, but temps should be just as stable.
Me again. Word to the wise. Print at least two cr touch mounts at 100% infill. It is very awkward to fit a cr touch on this thing. The one and only mount I printed before installing this broke and now I can do nothing except put my old hotend back. Which is a no go. So, I have managed to use my old cr touch mount that came with the touch. I intended to print another mount that will properly fit the NG. However, I keep getting "Home XYZ first on the screen" or "Too far" meaning that the hotend is in the wrong position but how do I get it in the right position? I can adjust the Z until I am blue in the face but getting the X & Y is baffling. I have reset to defaults. Moved the carriage this way and that way. Homed a hundred times. Bed is perfectly level. I can manually move the carriage and set the home settings but whenever I try to print I get "Too Far" again. Grrrrrr
Again, thank you for all the tips!
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
How does this extruder compare to the original Micro Swiss direct drive setup?
I've never used the direct drive one, but I have seen them in action. I would say this is a much more elegant solution.
@@ChrisRiley glad to hear that because I just received my NG today!
@@rock0802how has been your experience so far?
@@omegadeepblue1407 it's been great, prints really nice and worth the time/money
One bad thing is that they don't include a new heater or thermistor, and that the included baffle is for a single 4010 fan which is very weak
Thanks for your input!
would I need any software upgrades or ? can I continue to use Cura?
I couple of quick firmware changes, but none for the slicer. Good to go with Cura.
Is there an x axis linear rail upgrade with brackets that will allow the ng to be used without the wheels?
They are working on one now, I really want one as well.
How do you think this compares to the Hemera?
Performance would be the same but this is a direct replacement.
Chris, ¿how would you install a adxl345 in this?
That's a good question, I haven't jumped into trying that on this setup.
Can this print out Nylon X and filaments like it
Yes, but you might want to get a hardened nozzle.
Could the Micro Swiss NG direct drive kit be used on an Ender-3 Max Neo?
I don't know much about that printer, but Micro Swiss can probably tell you if you drop them an email.
@@ChrisRiley I reached out to them after posting. They said they do not have a DD kit that will work with the Ender 3 Max Neo.
Just ordered mine. The stock ender3 is a PLA only machine. Let's be realistic about that. So I am doubleing the cost of my machine in hopes that I can finally get decent PETG prints.
Good luck with your projects!
Hey Chris! Loving your videos man, good job and please keep them going. I'm debating upgrading to this same setup on the ender 3v2. I'm curious if you've found the need to add a second z axis motor or if it's been running fine on the single even with the added weight.
I runs fine with the single. It's relatively light
@@ChrisRiley excellent thank you!
Hi Chris how about if you try an afterburner on Ender 3?
:) we could do that.
Wow, wish I would have waited till after I saw this. I bought an orbiter and a dragon hotend and all kinds of fans and crap and even with some shopping around for the best price I paid more....not to mention the fact that its all sitting in a parts drawer waiting for me to print a massive shroud and get off my butt to install it. The real problem is that the printer is running so well that I'm not really bothered with it right now.
Ain't that the way it goes. Thanks for watching
Can you share your setting profile plz
I am using the default setting in prusa slicer for the prusa MK3.
Thank you. I just upgraded to the swiss ng and was having issues with my print. i did the calibrations steps and found out that my linear advanced was way off. Beautiful print now. I'm so excited. Thank you for your informative video!
Can I mod it to have a volcano nozzle
I don't think MS has that option, but it might be worth dropping them an email.
Can it print CF nylon
Yes, should be no problem.
So I've got this thing running and tuned, my esteps are at 434mm and it prints great with Gyers, ran two excellent benchies and one very nice mini. Ran into my first issue today, I can not load new filament into it. Everything is functioning as expected. Am I missing something?
It's just really hard to load? Pull the idler door off and see if there's anything in there. Maybe some PLA broke off.
@@ChrisRiley yes really hard. That's what I'm thinking a piece of pla is blocking it. It grips the very end of the filament but wont pull it through. ill keep you posted on what i find for future reference.
@@ChrisRiley So yes a piece of Pla was stuck in there once i removed the idler arm (easy to do) it fell right out. thanks a lot for you response.
@@Den-ml7zg Awesome, glad you found it.
will this thing work with a CR-10 series printer?
Yes, it should be the same.
Have you tested the bondtech lgx or lgx lite? Both are monsters at flexible filaments, even in bowden configuration. The lgx has so much filament grip, even at 1 amp current it wont grind (has the same total reduction like a bmg oder microswiss ng, esteps are 400)
I'll check it out!
this is really nice hotend extruder combo, but I always aske myself how do you spend mony on an upgrade that is as expensive and maybe more expensive than the printer. should you buy a different printer then?
Thant's the $64,000 question my friend. This hobby is a viscous cycle. 🙂
I just installed this hotend because it looked fun. Now it's producing weird clicking sounds during retraction moves (retractions testet from 1mm to 0.3mm with speeds from 45mm/s to 35mm/s). Had anyone else this problem? And nope the extruder isn't slipping. The extrusion is fine. It's just annoying.
Not sure how bad yours is click, but mine does seem to be a little clicky-er than most. Not sure if it's slop in the shaft or what. It doesn't seem to impact anything, but it is annoying.
@@ChrisRiley i'll upload a recording of the noise. Also sent it to Micro Swiss to see what they have to say. All in all i have to say: my old upgraded bowden setup outperforms the Micro Swiss NG easily when it comes to PLA/PETG/ Harder TPU. But i have to say that i used an EZR struder, a good stepper at the extruder, some good Sunon and Noctua fans and a Slice Engineering bitmetal heatbreak. All together still cheaper than the Micro Swiss but with better quality.
@@ChrisRiley
This is the extruder during the pront of a retraction test:
th-cam.com/users/shortstflCsghU3y0?feature=share
It doesn't sound as loud in the video as it is in reality. You might have to crank the volume up a little bit.
@@ChrisRiley Micro-Swiss just replied to my e-Mail and confirmed that the clicking is normal. Sad. I might change back to my bowdensetup.
Looks like a great option for printing with rubber bands! 🤪
You bet!
what fans would you recommend for an upgraded part cooling fan for this?
A blower fan would be better but you would have to rework the duct.
Hi Chris - I have been hunting around looking for a nozzle tool. I checked with Micro Swiss and they recommended 3.4NM or 30 in lbs of torque on their all metal hot ends. They sent me a link to a tekton 10-150 in lbs torque wrench. I seem to be coming across so much conflicting information. Recommendations of 0.5 N all the way to 3.4 N. What is your experience and do you have an opinion on a tool that can function well with different hot ends?
1.5Nm is what I always use, never had any issues. I use this one, but it's kind of hard to get. olssonline.com/the-olsson-nozzle-tool/
@@ChrisRiley Thanks, yes that one is a bit difficult to get.
Thank you for the review. Do you think it's good enough to clone? I always wonder how long it will take for someone to clone something like this if its good enough to copy. Great video.
Seems like there's a clone for everything now. We'll see. Thanks for watching
or you could support a company that isn't based out of china lol
For $120 they couldn't at least bump the fan to a 5015/5020? Considering they are ducting this into a dual.. that seems like a requirement.
I hope they update the shroud design and consider including a better 24v fan, also no real integral strain relief for the cables either.
Thanks for watching
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for making the content, to be clear it was informative and I enjoyed learning about it. Just nitpicking about their price point for a design that carries over previous cooling issues.
yes it’s apparent that cooling sucks. But how do they make money without making u to upgrade later.
So no ability to manually extrude?
Would have been nice to have a bit of shaft on the back of the stepper for a knob. Maybe we're just supposed to push it thru?
Not a lot of extruders have a feeder, it would be nice. Thanks for your comments.
@@ChrisRiley the trianglelab I use doesn't per se, but I can reach/roll the driven gear by thumb w/o much effort.
23:04 I have never printed a successful benchy. My first one failed. I adjusted my steps and printed a single layer test pattern. Never tried another benchy. Seems like a waste of plastic.
It's kind of a thing. Thanks for watching
and you did not smoke your stepper driver by connecting the stepper motor while the printer was on??? lucky
I do try to power down before I unplug the motors, it’s the smart thing to do, but I have pulled them hot many times and have never had an issue. I guess it’s just luck, eventually it will run out.
Went to order one yesterday out of stock.
Bummer!
I had an orbiter / microswiss combo and the microswiss jammed so much that I had to remove it.
Bummer, I'm sorry it didn't work out.
@@ChrisRiley I'm still going to try it but I can't get a clean filament path and it underextrudes. Even when I swapped the ms with a stock m6 so there is a Teflon coated tube right down to the nozzle. I suspect I got a bad motor because I have it slightly under the rated current. Oh well
@@ChrisRiley you need not be sorry as well. You have one of the best channels and you are not swayed by corporate foolishness. You're also a fellow metal head. Listen to colors 2 my man.
Call me a pedantic ( _actual_ ) Swiss but that shiny Aluminium Mount _specifically_ made for a *_black_* powder coated / anodized 3D Printer is _kinda_ rubbing me the wrong way 🤨
Btw... Something that has been bother me for like _forever_ with those Enders is the lack of a 2nd Z-Axis Motor... Have you ever considered testing the accuracy of it during fast movements with something like a Dial Gauge Indicator? 🤔
It does kind of stand out. Never tested it, but it might be interesting.
apparently single motor doesn’t affect much, I recall somebody tested it
@@user-yk1cw8im4h Every upgrade video I have watched seems to show no benefit so they blame it on bad filament and untuned profiles.
Check out the belted ender z mod, uses the same single motor but uses two belts instead of 1 z screw. Seems to work wonders so far. Kevinakasam is the one who published it, and there is a kit!
@@electricAGENT Thanks for posting !
And again a new, nicely engineered extruder without angled teeth on the gears. Just design the filament drivin gears bigger, angle the teeth and get rid of artifacts caused by mechanic!
Cool, thanks for your insight
Another Quality Video brought to you by Riley Enterprises... 😛
You betcha!
Nice extruder
I still find it funny how microswiss has nothing to do with Switzerland
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 🙂
makes no sense they reuse the stock fan for the new shroud. Are they really cheapening out on providing a $3 fan lol
Thanks for your comment
Any issues with heat creep when printing pla?? i know my original micro swiss had bad heat creep issues when printing pla using the stock fan shroud..
There could be issues, but I think the new fan/sink setup should help.
@@ChrisRiley its a very interesting extruder for sure. I might have to grab me one and try it out myself!
Are you excited or low on sugar. Hands shaking a lot. Thank you for the review.
Maybe a little too much coffee
Hi Chris, i've just seen your video named: Marlin Unified Bed Leveling (th-cam.com/video/ONpKxkil16Q/w-d-xo.html) and get a little confused about a few things, hope you can answer to me. 1- Is it the same procedure with the latest Marlin version (2.0.9.3)? 2- How can I upload the firmware through a flash memory card instead via USB? 3- Do I have to change the same parameters for a Bl touch? If you could answer this I would be very grateful.
Hello, UBL hasn't changed much, so yes it should be the same. 2, it depends on the board, if it's 8bit USB is your only option. Yes, change the same stuff for BLtouch, instead of fixed prode use BLtouch.
Yeah but.. will it play Crysis - Sorry.... Ermm, is it suitable for an Ender 3 V2 too?
EDIT: I Googled... that's a YES 😎
🙂👍
president and ceo lmao
🙂👍
that grub screw fixing is terrible....
It works okay with the slot they have in their break. Not my fav.
I agree, it's the weak point in my micro swiss.
Am looking at direct drive, and see here there is a slot for the screw now?
We are going to grind a small indent into our heat break.
Thank you for posting !
most people think that more cooling is better - its not
The quality of the cooling is best practice in my opinion. Thanks for your comment
Chris. Have you lost some weight? Looking good. And I don’t mean it that way
Thanks!
The outlet of your partsfan should be in the down direction, not. Your position is not correct. But the rest of your video is very informative.
Thanks