Micro Swiss is local to me, and they allowed me an in-person tour last week where I got to see the NG manufacturing.The place is pretty amazingly large, and to my surprise, they only make 3D printer parts. I was curious why the NG didn't have a use-your-own-motor version. it turns out the gear on the motor is a press-fit on the motor shaft, and it requires some careful tooling to make sure the gear mesh is correct (kinda like setting up the pinion and ring gear on a car differential, except not hypoid). One concern I have is that the gear ratio is exactly 3:1, and it's conceivable that since the same gear teeth are always touching there could be some odd harmonic effects on extrusion as the system wears. However, they've been using them in-house for a while, so maybe it's no big deal.
As far as I can see, these gears are made from brass. Brass gears are incredibly long life when maintained correctly. One drop of silicon oil every now and then should make them last a lifetime. Also, if they should fail there are bevel gears already premade from the miniature RC car scene, I bet you can replace the OG ones with those. Might require a new motor though, a pressfit is nothing you can take apart that easily without destroying the parts. As a hobbyist at least.
@@Medievalfan94 wonder if you have an old one. Mine has some of sintered press fit gear. Removal with heat would be possible but would probably destroy the stepper lol. LDO stepper is included with the hotend which is quite nice!
As a complete noob, it took me a few nights to get my Ender 3 V2 set up so I'm scared to install my microswiss NG and dual z axis upgrade kit lol probably gonna bite the bullet tonight. This guide looks very thorough so I'm happy about that. The dual z axis installation guides that are out there though...
installed NG over the weekend. Works great. I have since installed the Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 V3.0 and also the Bigtreetech display TFT35-E3 V3.0.1. Also in my opinion great upgrades.Fantastic instructional video mate👍
I just installed an NG on my Ender 3 V2 NEO, I had a bitch of a time trying to get my slicer bed and printer bed to line up well enough to actually print bed leveling test without a few centimeters of the print being outside of the bed, ended up having to apply an extruder offset in Super Slicer of X:30, and Y:15, as well as move the the purge line to x-27. This upgrade shrinks the printable bed area to 209x219. It works great, big upgrade from the old extruder and hotend. I can now print in 0.04mm to 0.4mm layer height. Admittedly 0.04 isn’t perfect, but it printed a full benchy with only a single holes on side of the hull
If you edit the G-code file for the E-step update you can add the M500 command after the E-step modifying command. This will write the E-step mod to EEPROM, so you will not have to use the card ever again.
Just installed a Microswiss NG on my Ender 3 V2, thank you for the video guide it was very helpful.... waiting to print out the BL Touch bracket on my Prusa Mini+ and hoping to get my Ender back up an printing soon.
Daniel I purchased this Micro Swiss NG for my Ender 3 Pro and followed your installation. It went great! I did have two observations after the install. I'm using a BL Touch and found if I wrapped the BL Touch wiring harness to the wire loom along with the new extruder extension cable the BL Touch stopped working. My redneck fix was to use some zip ties on the wire loom to make a 'stand-off' and separate the BL Touch harness from the other wires. So far so good. My other gotcha was I use an after market belt tighter on the X-axis. When the carriage went to do its bed probing it hit one of the Allen bolts that holds the belt tightener bracket to the gantry. Redneck solution was to grind down the head of the bolt. Problem fixed. Ran a lot of calibrations to set E-steps, flow, retraction and z-height. Everything looks good except for one. I did a temp tower and really none of the temps gave good bridging. I'm wondering if it could be because I used the Ender 3 Pro stock part cooling fan and/or the Micro Swiss ducts aren't quite allowing the air to flow. Any ideas or suggestions?? Thanks
Hi from Australia. Great video. I have an Ender 3 Pro with an almost stock setup (I upgraded to a metal extruder). I also have a CR Touch mounted on its own bracket that goes under the hotend shroud screws. Finally I have a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint through with I run all my interactions with the printer. As an aside, I'm using Marlin 2 firmware, and I can now no longer use the SD card in the printer I get a Media Init error which denies the presence of any SD card in the SD slot. I can, of course, run Gcode in Octoprint. Something you said in your presentation at 18.18, where you said that the SD card will update the Esteps and the SD card must remain in the card slot, which I cannot do. You also said with the stock Ender, the Esteps are not written to the EPROM, but on my Marlin 2 FW I can write and save Esteps. By the way, the usual process with 3D printers is to measure a 10mm of filament and watch it being extruded then calculate a new value for Esteps and enter and save them into the Eprom. What is different with the Micro Swiss NG? Do you not measure Esteps in the usual way? Finally how would I mount my CR Touch on the gantry with the new direct drive? Any change to the position of the CR Touch means recalulation the X and Y offsets (The relationship of the tip of the probe to the nozzle tip, in both the X and Y direction) Once again, great video. I wonder if you'd be so kind as to help me with my questions. Good on ya, mate
I got the microswiss all metal hotend with upgraded blower fans. but luckily i got another ender 3v2 in the box that i can put together and try this direct drive on. i've never had one.
Just got mine yesterday. Glad you made a video on how to install. I'm currently waiting to install it because I have an Ender 3 Max and I wanted to upgrade the part cooling fans to 4020 blowers instead of the 4010's. The stock fan shroud has two 4010 blowers on the E3MAX so I am waiting to see if anyone designs a fan shroud with 2 slots. I might go ahead and attempt to design one myself, but I'm not very good with fusion 360, and tinkercad isn't the best when it comes to designing fan shrouds due to limitations.
Great video! I received and installed mine yesterday. It was easy to figure out even without any instructions from MS. I ended up with a steps/mm of 415. I forgot update my retraction settings, so good reminder!
@@dcoelman mark 100 and 120 mm coming out of the top of the extruder. Tell the printer to extrude 100 mm. Measure what is left and calculate the new esteps value using an online calculator.
@@AnthonyM1 it may depend on which ender 3 you have, but go to Control and then Motion and then you should see an esteps value for x,y,z and e. I’ve switched from marlin to klipper since this video came out, so I’m going off memory and a quick google search. There are plenty of good TH-cam tutorials on how to calibrate esteps. If nothing else, follow one of those videos to show you where to change it. Change it to 400 first to get you close and then calibrate from there.
I would love to see this setup vs the new creality sprite extruder on the 3 v2. Trying to decide what upgrade path I'll go for. I was also curious about the ABL and this setup, as I have a CR Touch installed right now
Glad yours was pre put together. Mine is broken down to every single piece and is missing the fan shroud among other things. So far pretty frustrated ngl.
Can you do a setup and settings for the Ender 3 V2 using Jyers firmware. Including settings like the x/y offset and extruder speed for flexible and pla using this new hotend? Also can you show us some prints with the new hotend? I'm interested in upgrading my ender 3 v2. Good video btw!
Currently converting from a stock extruder to a micro swiss, however I am not using their direct drive setup, but rather a 3D printed one. I had just to many issues with the stock, even going as far as replacing the heatbreak but it would still consistently clog.
Valid, the purpose of this video was to be a guide on the conversion process. Visually, it is difficult to show though as the stock plastic extruder can print things like PLA fine. The main things you are getting is the ability to print in a much wider range of materials, dual wear resistant gears which is much better for abrasives, and a way shorter filament path so flexibles will be able to be printed quicker/easier.
@@SkeezyFPV You'll get much better filament control when dealing with stringing and printabiliity of extremely flexible filament that is nearly impossible witht he stock bowden setup...
another solution to the gcode file is to add the command for setting the Esteps to the slicer in its startup code , something like : M92 X80.0 Y80.0 Z400 E400
Where's the rest of the video? How does it print? How does the extra weight impact ringing? For $120, they should have included the rollers and new fans. I'd try a Spider Hot or Sprite hot end before I buy this. Less hassle with updating firmware and having to manage SD cards - especially if you have multiple printers.
Same here, even the softer flexibles run great in it, I especially like that you can change filament without any hassle, been printing a lot with spools going in back to back. Have to knock on wood, but the original MS combo is running great on my 2 ender 3's, haven't had any problems with them with ~460 days of printing time total now. The greater problem is running out of PLA on a sunday, luckily my local supplier helped me out! Great products, and a good in depth review. The new design looks nice.. But I'll stick with the old combo for a while.
Instead of throwing away the random bits of leftover hardware, I put them all in a box and save them for the future, I will probably find a use for them eventually
I'm getting so fed up with printing, there is so much tech but for some reason, no company wants to do it! HP Come on save us! Man... Ok with that frustration out of the way, nice vids bro.
What do you mean no company wants to use tech? You talking about upgrades you buy? Then yeah they trying to make money that's why they sell "upgrade accessories" smh
@@sculptaware4548 No, there now is tech like specialized sensors, AI (anker is trying to do sth I guess) etc. etc. nobody is utilizing these to make 3d printing painful, it's just a brute force solution atm just pumpring g code and seeing where we end up at, this might have been okay in 2005 but come on ..
@@revoltoff yep the 3d printing industry is so behind barely adapting tool head probing with the nozzle, multi axis, and the TH-camr Properprinting is finally making a belt extruder instead of gears. Belt extruders can be found on old wire cutting machines from the 80s
@@sculptaware4548 I mean I think the whole concept should be rethought, it is so easy to create a lidar scanning printer that sends g code to the location it sees on the sensor, there are lidar scanners that are extremely accurate, this is just one of the many things...
@@revoltoff unfortunately the industry follows the leader so all the stuff you see will be copies or accessories to stuff made by industry leaders E3D, PRUSA, and Creality to name a few. While duet, slice engineering, and bondtech are just making upgrades for those printers made by those leaders mentioned. The only company that's doing something interesting to me is diabase engineering with their multiaxis CNC with a hotend as one of the toolheada
actually definitely could use some help on increasing temp of hotend in software for marlin although I might be updating the whole board to BTT Octopus pro if I don't get to that core xy soon Edit: I have a Tevo 2018G edition
You need to update firmware in order to increase max temp in marlin. Also I wouldnt push the default thermistor further than 285 or 290. If you need to go higher you want a higher temp thermistor or a RTD
Easy enough install over the old direct drive, but I'm not getting as good results with overhangs with petg. Wondering if the fan ducting could be the cause over much of anything else.
I have messaged them about this issue. I purchased the all metal hot end last month in prep for this extruder, just my luck it’s not all compatible. The rep mentioned they will be releasing a model later without the hot end once initial releases are met. The hot end for this will use everything from the previous except the cooling block.
Unfortunately I use the nebula smart kit touch screen, and filament sensor. so I don't use the SD card for gcodes it's uses usb the gcode from microswiss work on the usb?
Microswiss definetely makes the King of Extruders but I am disapointed by its mounting options... I have upgraded my Ender 3 v2 Neo with all Linear Rail Axis so my new X Axis mount plate is different my X Axis plate is mounted on top side of the 2020 aluminium gantry. Hope Microswiss makes a part for linear rail mounting so I can buy their extruder
how does it perform with tpu? I have the OG Microswiss DD and hot end on an Ender 3 v1 Pro. The tpu is pushed out between the extruder sprockets because the PTFE ( or capricorn, doesn't matter) gets pushed asside.
Awesome video! I recently installed the Micro Swiss NG on both of my Ender 3 Pro's. They print great! My question is: Do you by any chance have a recommendation for a TPU profile for the direct drive extruders? i never printed with direct drives and only have printed TPU on my Anycubic Vyper with some succes. So a TPU Profile for these would be much appreciated. love your videos keep it up!
Got this on my v2 have the steps set to 430mm. First filament load was easy but I've been struggling to load it again. Been at it for 20 min when I decided to research it. Any help? Loving the gyers and bed level mesh!
Do you have any print samples using the Micro Swiss NG? I'm thinking of upgrading my CR-10 to get a direct drive system. Only thing I'm worried about though is a repeating "ripple" pattern on flat vertical surfaces that can sometimes happen when using a dual drive system (MihaiDesigns has a good video on this). I'm hoping this direct drive does not have those issues.
Weirdest thing just happened. When cutting the PTFE tube with a razor there was a spark at the beginning of each cut. Could have been static but it looked more like the light you get when crunching certain candies. Anyone else notice this?
Question I just got my extruder for my ender 3 v2 do I have to "print" the g code file for e steps every time before I print or does it recognize its on the SD card after the first time?
Is the hotend that comes with the kit like the ones they sell separately? So would it be like a 2 in 1 upgrade and let me print at hotter temperatures than a normal hotend would?
I installed the micro Swiss NG on my CR-10 V3 and if I use my extruder cable the extruder just clicks but if I use the extension cable that came with the micro swiss the extruder just goes backwards. Anyone have any idea on how to fix this? I’d prefer to use my cable that’s already installed and figure out how to get the clicking to stop
it is in reverese if you didnt use the supplied cable. you could change the firmwire or you could flip 2 of the wires on your plug. look at the adapter and see how 2 flip flop. just unclip the, from the white part and flip.
Thanks for the great content as usual. I had no idea this was in the works from MicroSwiss. Few comments/questions. Does that kapton tape serve a purpose and need to be adjusted rather than removed? Cooling for the hotend seems to be restricted. Would that not cause heat creep with long prints? Bed alignment should be done directly over the four bed retention screws, and not at the absolute corners. Otherwise it will take more than a couple of rounds over the entire bed to align. Doing so over the screws reduces the number of rounds.
just ordered mine. the stock ender 3 hot end package is straight up garbage; PLA is the only thing one should ever run through that thing. I bought my ender 3 pro for $100, and now I'm spending $120 to make it right. I guess $220 total is decent for what I think should be a good package. just wish the shipping was quicker... I'm going through withdraws man!
Hello Dopesoner! Your videos helped me flash my Xbox 360 disc drive with the kamikaze method. Without you I wouldn't have had a way to replace my disc drive without rgh! I wanted to ask, what happened to your social media accounts? It seems as if they're all gone, and all links to them are dead. Just trying to complete the rebrand?
Looks like you sent me a bad stepper motor, and although I have a TH3D pancake stepper that's nearly identical and works fine, you press-fit the gear so now my printer is probably down until you send another stepper motor to replace what I assume is the bad one. I don't think I will be buying your stuff anymore. I have yet to use your products successfully.
A test print doesn’t show much. Unless there is a specific material like a flexible or abrasive you would like printed. The consistency/reliability factor is not something that can be shown with just a print.
Really disappointed in microswiss on this one. No instructions included and I must have missed the point in people's videos talking about the extension cable and it's too switched wires. But come on who relies on community videos for their instructions. What you can R&D apart but you can't pay someone to write a paragraph? My printer does not extrude at all anymore I'm hoping that this garbage setup just blew a stepper driver and nothing else. Even a small card with a warning would have been nice. I thought it was just an extension to go from Bowden to direct drive.
The 3d printer market is a toxic one tbh, after so much thinking, the whole market is just a joke... it's sad !!! Someone needs to step up it really is not as hard as it seems but we are still relying on tech from 20 years ago, what other industry does this! There has to be someone somewhere that just reinvents the wheel because that is what is needed for at home 3d printing... this is a dead end!
Yeah i was thinking the same thing. For God's sake I just want something at least a LITTLE plug and play lol. Like include the wiring harness and fans so i can just rip the old one off and be done with it. I take it the idea is to keep costs to the consumer as low as possible while still making a profit and i appreciate that. But this is one case where my current setup is 'good enough'. There are too many other things i would rather do with my time. At least until next winter comes and then maybe i will reconsider. It sure looks cool haha
Micro Swiss is local to me, and they allowed me an in-person tour last week where I got to see the NG manufacturing.The place is pretty amazingly large, and to my surprise, they only make 3D printer parts. I was curious why the NG didn't have a use-your-own-motor version. it turns out the gear on the motor is a press-fit on the motor shaft, and it requires some careful tooling to make sure the gear mesh is correct (kinda like setting up the pinion and ring gear on a car differential, except not hypoid). One concern I have is that the gear ratio is exactly 3:1, and it's conceivable that since the same gear teeth are always touching there could be some odd harmonic effects on extrusion as the system wears. However, they've been using them in-house for a while, so maybe it's no big deal.
As far as I can see, these gears are made from brass. Brass gears are incredibly long life when maintained correctly. One drop of silicon oil every now and then should make them last a lifetime. Also, if they should fail there are bevel gears already premade from the miniature RC car scene, I bet you can replace the OG ones with those. Might require a new motor though, a pressfit is nothing you can take apart that easily without destroying the parts. As a hobbyist at least.
@@Medievalfan94 wonder if you have an old one. Mine has some of sintered press fit gear. Removal with heat would be possible but would probably destroy the stepper lol. LDO stepper is included with the hotend which is quite nice!
As a complete noob, it took me a few nights to get my Ender 3 V2 set up so I'm scared to install my microswiss NG and dual z axis upgrade kit lol probably gonna bite the bullet tonight. This guide looks very thorough so I'm happy about that. The dual z axis installation guides that are out there though...
installed NG over the weekend. Works great. I have since installed the Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 V3.0 and also the Bigtreetech display TFT35-E3 V3.0.1. Also in my opinion great upgrades.Fantastic instructional video mate👍
Wow! That extruder looks wild!
I just installed an NG on my Ender 3 V2 NEO, I had a bitch of a time trying to get my slicer bed and printer bed to line up well enough to actually print bed leveling test without a few centimeters of the print being outside of the bed, ended up having to apply an extruder offset in Super Slicer of X:30, and Y:15, as well as move the the purge line to x-27. This upgrade shrinks the printable bed area to 209x219. It works great, big upgrade from the old extruder and hotend. I can now print in 0.04mm to 0.4mm layer height. Admittedly 0.04 isn’t perfect, but it printed a full benchy with only a single holes on side of the hull
If you edit the G-code file for the E-step update you can add the M500 command after the E-step modifying command. This will write the E-step mod to EEPROM, so you will not have to use the card ever again.
The gcode provided by Microswiss is:
M92 E400 ; Set E Steps to 400
M500 ; Store Settings
M117 Saved!
Just installed a Microswiss NG on my Ender 3 V2, thank you for the video guide it was very helpful.... waiting to print out the BL Touch bracket on my Prusa Mini+ and hoping to get my Ender back up an printing soon.
Daniel
I purchased this Micro Swiss NG for my Ender 3 Pro and followed your installation. It went great!
I did have two observations after the install. I'm using a BL Touch and found if I wrapped the BL Touch wiring harness to the wire loom along with the new extruder extension cable the BL Touch stopped working. My redneck fix was to use some zip ties on the wire loom to make a 'stand-off' and separate the BL Touch harness from the other wires. So far so good. My other gotcha was I use an after market belt tighter on the X-axis. When the carriage went to do its bed probing it hit one of the Allen bolts that holds the belt tightener bracket to the gantry. Redneck solution was to grind down the head of the bolt. Problem fixed.
Ran a lot of calibrations to set E-steps, flow, retraction and z-height. Everything looks good except for one. I did a temp tower and really none of the temps gave good bridging.
I'm wondering if it could be because I used the Ender 3 Pro stock part cooling fan and/or the Micro Swiss ducts aren't quite allowing the air to flow. Any ideas or suggestions??
Thanks
Your videos are awesome, showing detail what comes in kit and proper installation. I have used your previous ones and you do the best- we trust you.
Hi from Australia. Great video. I have an Ender 3 Pro with an almost stock setup (I upgraded to a metal extruder). I also have a CR Touch mounted on its own bracket that goes under the hotend shroud screws. Finally I have a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint through with I run all my interactions with the printer.
As an aside, I'm using Marlin 2 firmware, and I can now no longer use the SD card in the printer I get a Media Init error which denies the presence of any SD card in the SD slot. I can, of course, run Gcode in Octoprint.
Something you said in your presentation at 18.18, where you said that the SD card will update the Esteps and the SD card must remain in the card slot, which I cannot do. You also said with the stock Ender, the Esteps are not written to the EPROM, but on my Marlin 2 FW I can write and save Esteps. By the way, the usual process with 3D printers is to measure a 10mm of filament and watch it being extruded then calculate a new value for Esteps and enter and save them into the Eprom. What is different with the Micro Swiss NG? Do you not measure Esteps in the usual way?
Finally how would I mount my CR Touch on the gantry with the new direct drive? Any change to the position of the CR Touch means recalulation the X and Y offsets (The relationship of the tip of the probe to the nozzle tip, in both the X and Y direction)
Once again, great video. I wonder if you'd be so kind as to help me with my questions.
Good on ya, mate
I got the microswiss all metal hotend with upgraded blower fans. but luckily i got another ender 3v2 in the box that i can put together and try this direct drive on. i've never had one.
I saw this in an email the other day, really excited to see it I'm action!! :D
I just installed my NG on my ender 3 wiith the Mutant quick change system, works great!
great upgrade tutorial! 👏
Just got mine yesterday. Glad you made a video on how to install.
I'm currently waiting to install it because I have an Ender 3 Max and I wanted to upgrade the part cooling fans to 4020 blowers instead of the 4010's. The stock fan shroud has two 4010 blowers on the E3MAX so I am waiting to see if anyone designs a fan shroud with 2 slots.
I might go ahead and attempt to design one myself, but I'm not very good with fusion 360, and tinkercad isn't the best when it comes to designing fan shrouds due to limitations.
Great video! I received and installed mine yesterday. It was easy to figure out even without any instructions from MS. I ended up with a steps/mm of 415. I forgot update my retraction settings, so good reminder!
How did you find your esteps
@@dcoelman mark 100 and 120 mm coming out of the top of the extruder. Tell the printer to extrude 100 mm. Measure what is left and calculate the new esteps value using an online calculator.
@@kel5944 Hi, but where did you insert the new value e-steps?. The video mentions they were saved on the card at 400mm
@@AnthonyM1 it may depend on which ender 3 you have, but go to Control and then Motion and then you should see an esteps value for x,y,z and e. I’ve switched from marlin to klipper since this video came out, so I’m going off memory and a quick google search. There are plenty of good TH-cam tutorials on how to calibrate esteps. If nothing else, follow one of those videos to show you where to change it. Change it to 400 first to get you close and then calibrate from there.
@@kel5944 Ender 3 pro as the video shows. Can I just mod the settings in Cura gcode to state M92 E400
I would love to see this setup vs the new creality sprite extruder on the 3 v2. Trying to decide what upgrade path I'll go for. I was also curious about the ABL and this setup, as I have a CR Touch installed right now
What did you do?
@@geofftech went with the ng and the abl installed no problem. Worked well then got a Bambu and haven’t used my ender or my Prusa minis since
Do the sprite, for the money.
Glad yours was pre put together. Mine is broken down to every single piece and is missing the fan shroud among other things. So far pretty frustrated ngl.
Can you do a setup and settings for the Ender 3 V2 using Jyers firmware. Including settings like the x/y offset and extruder speed for flexible and pla using this new hotend?
Also can you show us some prints with the new hotend? I'm interested in upgrading my ender 3 v2.
Good video btw!
Currently converting from a stock extruder to a micro swiss, however I am not using their direct drive setup, but rather a 3D printed one. I had just to many issues with the stock, even going as far as replacing the heatbreak but it would still consistently clog.
Hey, it would be nice, if you show us the extruder working and some before and after prints. Other than that, nice video !
Yeah that looks like a lot of work if the prints look the same at the end of the day, right?
Valid, the purpose of this video was to be a guide on the conversion process. Visually, it is difficult to show though as the stock plastic extruder can print things like PLA fine. The main things you are getting is the ability to print in a much wider range of materials, dual wear resistant gears which is much better for abrasives, and a way shorter filament path so flexibles will be able to be printed quicker/easier.
@@SkeezyFPV You'll get much better filament control when dealing with stringing and printabiliity of extremely flexible filament that is nearly impossible witht he stock bowden setup...
Totimorphic (if they pull it off) will probably be the future of printing tbh.
another solution to the gcode file is to add the command for setting the Esteps to the slicer in its startup code , something like : M92 X80.0 Y80.0 Z400 E400
just
M92 E400
That would be amazing if they'd bothered to upgrade the stock part cooling to a 5015. Sticking with the 4010 seems like a bit of an oversight.
100% agree with this
Seems like they wanted to make it as plug and play as possible. I think they should upload a couple fan shroud STLs for better fans though.
Excellent guide! Thank you sir!
Where's the rest of the video? How does it print? How does the extra weight impact ringing? For $120, they should have included the rollers and new fans. I'd try a Spider Hot or Sprite hot end before I buy this. Less hassle with updating firmware and having to manage SD cards - especially if you have multiple printers.
The firmwear is an easy fix, I just changes the E steps in the menu, and I dont have worry about an sd card
Very detailed video! Thanks so much!
I have the original direct drive extruder and hot end kit. It really improved performance over the stock setup. This one looks interesting as well.
Yeah I have been running a couple of the previous gen and they have been great for a wide range of materials.
Same here, even the softer flexibles run great in it, I especially like that you can change filament without any hassle, been printing a lot with spools going in back to back. Have to knock on wood, but the original MS combo is running great on my 2 ender 3's, haven't had any problems with them with ~460 days of printing time total now. The greater problem is running out of PLA on a sunday, luckily my local supplier helped me out! Great products, and a good in depth review. The new design looks nice.. But I'll stick with the old combo for a while.
Micro Swiss got a awesome deal on this video.
Instead of throwing away the random bits of leftover hardware, I put them all in a box and save them for the future, I will probably find a use for them eventually
Looking forward to seeing the results of using this hotend/dd extruder.
18:30 Or change the steps in the settings on the printer itself.
Thats what I did as I use OctoPring , I kust did in the Marlin menu.
I'm getting so fed up with printing, there is so much tech but for some reason, no company wants to do it! HP Come on save us! Man... Ok with that frustration out of the way, nice vids bro.
What do you mean no company wants to use tech? You talking about upgrades you buy? Then yeah they trying to make money that's why they sell "upgrade accessories" smh
@@sculptaware4548 No, there now is tech like specialized sensors, AI (anker is trying to do sth I guess) etc. etc. nobody is utilizing these to make 3d printing painful, it's just a brute force solution atm just pumpring g code and seeing where we end up at, this might have been okay in 2005 but come on ..
@@revoltoff yep the 3d printing industry is so behind barely adapting tool head probing with the nozzle, multi axis, and the TH-camr Properprinting is finally making a belt extruder instead of gears. Belt extruders can be found on old wire cutting machines from the 80s
@@sculptaware4548 I mean I think the whole concept should be rethought, it is so easy to create a lidar scanning printer that sends g code to the location it sees on the sensor, there are lidar scanners that are extremely accurate, this is just one of the many things...
@@revoltoff unfortunately the industry follows the leader so all the stuff you see will be copies or accessories to stuff made by industry leaders E3D, PRUSA, and Creality to name a few. While duet, slice engineering, and bondtech are just making upgrades for those printers made by those leaders mentioned. The only company that's doing something interesting to me is diabase engineering with their multiaxis CNC with a hotend as one of the toolheada
actually definitely could use some help on increasing temp of hotend in software for marlin although I might be updating the whole board to BTT Octopus pro if I don't get to that core xy soon Edit: I have a Tevo 2018G edition
You need to update firmware in order to increase max temp in marlin. Also I wouldnt push the default thermistor further than 285 or 290. If you need to go higher you want a higher temp thermistor or a RTD
Is it compatible with mgn12h linear rail?
Excellent instructional video! Thanks
Interesting extruder
Thanks for sharing your expirences with all of us :-)
Thanks Asger :)
Easy enough install over the old direct drive, but I'm not getting as good results with overhangs with petg.
Wondering if the fan ducting could be the cause over much of anything else.
Well done a great instructional video!
so I wanted to buy just the extruder but Micro Swiss have it listed at the same price as the included hotend!
I have messaged them about this issue. I purchased the all metal hot end last month in prep for this extruder, just my luck it’s not all compatible. The rep mentioned they will be releasing a model later without the hot end once initial releases are met. The hot end for this will use everything from the previous except the cooling block.
Is this a worthy upgrade from the previous Ender Micro Swiss Direct Drive, or stick with what I got?
This!
Where did you get the updated firmware? you commented it was going to be linked. I might be missing it? Cannot find it on the microswiss website.
Just wondering if this NG would work on my longer lk5 pro. I am fairly sure the stepper motors are running at different speeds.
Unfortunately I use the nebula smart kit touch screen, and filament sensor. so I don't use the SD card for gcodes it's uses usb the gcode from microswiss work on the usb?
Should the "non squirrel cage" blower blow towards the hot end/aluminum casting or away from the hot end (exhaust)?
Hey thanks for the roll of ABS I got it today tell G money I said thank you and if you don’t get this I’ll be on discord later and thank you again
need this for the ender 5
I would assume that you can skip the estep micro sd card this g if you run something like Jyers firmware since you can manually adjust that...
Hey boss. Kick ass video.
E steps are not saved? You have to insert the file every time you use the printer?
Also great video so u like the jyers ( which I currently use) as opposed to the professional ui
Can’t get mine to feed filament at all just clicks and jams up
Do you change the XY Home set for the new Microswiss Extruder ?
What about the XY Offset vor the CR Touch Probe ?
No homo I love you for this video 🤣
This one or the Creality sprite pro?
I have jyers loaded into my v2 how do I change my max temp
is this better than the Creality Sprite Direct Drive Extruder?
do you recommend the ng or the sprite extruder?
I have one now but stuck on klipper config .... they don't use : Set E Steps to 400 but Rotation distance any help would be awesome
what setting you use for TPU with Ultimaker cura 5.1
Microswiss definetely makes the King of Extruders but I am disapointed by its mounting options... I have upgraded my Ender 3 v2 Neo with all Linear Rail Axis so my new X Axis mount plate is different my X Axis plate is mounted on top side of the 2020 aluminium gantry. Hope Microswiss makes a part for linear rail mounting so I can buy their extruder
I have found out there is also linear rail version on Microswiss website
how does it perform with tpu?
I have the OG Microswiss DD and hot end on an Ender 3 v1 Pro. The tpu is pushed out between the extruder sprockets because the PTFE ( or capricorn, doesn't matter) gets pushed asside.
It tames TPU like no other. It has a 41mm distance between the gears and the nozzle, which is the shortest on the market.
Glad to see the prices for stuff like this are finally somewhat reasonable 🙌
I'm wondering about installing the NG on an Ender 5 Pro, and maybe even an Ender 2 Pro. Anyone seen any videos on either of those combos?
Hi, thanks for the guide! I just installed mine. I just wanted to ask about the E-Steps being 400. Is that a set value or can I calibrate it further?
is there any good tips for tuning with this or somewhere to start with for petg
Ive been using mine with PETG and found that 1 to 1.rmm @ 35mm per sec works good I up my printing temp 5 degres becayse my shop is cold.
Awesome video! I recently installed the Micro Swiss NG on both of my Ender 3 Pro's. They print great! My question is: Do you by any chance have a recommendation for a TPU profile for the direct drive extruders? i never printed with direct drives and only have printed TPU on my Anycubic Vyper with some succes. So a TPU Profile for these would be much appreciated. love your videos keep it up!
Anyone know the weight of this unit in grams?
Wich nozzle type fits heater block ¿mk8?
its crazy how old Micro Swiss DD set the E-steps to 140.1 (mines) and the new one is 400 E-Steps. I wonder why.
Different motor and it has a 3:1 gear ratio 😊
Got this on my v2 have the steps set to 430mm. First filament load was easy but I've been struggling to load it again. Been at it for 20 min when I decided to research it. Any help? Loving the gyers and bed level mesh!
Do you have any print samples using the Micro Swiss NG? I'm thinking of upgrading my CR-10 to get a direct drive system. Only thing I'm worried about though is a repeating "ripple" pattern on flat vertical surfaces that can sometimes happen when using a dual drive system (MihaiDesigns has a good video on this). I'm hoping this direct drive does not have those issues.
I have the ender 3 v2 CLONE. will your gcode work with this product - voxelab aquila?
When is there going to be a review?
Weirdest thing just happened. When cutting the PTFE tube with a razor there was a spark at the beginning of each cut. Could have been static but it looked more like the light you get when crunching certain candies. Anyone else notice this?
Question I just got my extruder for my ender 3 v2 do I have to "print" the g code file for e steps every time before I print or does it recognize its on the SD card after the first time?
can this be used for the ender 3 pro?
How much if any Z-axis height do you lose?
Is the hotend that comes with the kit like the ones they sell separately? So would it be like a 2 in 1 upgrade and let me print at hotter temperatures than a normal hotend would?
*by normal hotend i mean stock hotend
I installed the micro Swiss NG on my CR-10 V3 and if I use my extruder cable the extruder just clicks but if I use the extension cable that came with the micro swiss the extruder just goes backwards. Anyone have any idea on how to fix this? I’d prefer to use my cable that’s already installed and figure out how to get the clicking to stop
it is in reverese if you didnt use the supplied cable. you could change the firmwire or you could flip 2 of the wires on your plug. look at the adapter and see how 2 flip flop. just unclip the, from the white part and flip.
Thanks for the great content as usual. I had no idea this was in the works from MicroSwiss. Few comments/questions. Does that kapton tape serve a purpose and need to be adjusted rather than removed? Cooling for the hotend seems to be restricted. Would that not cause heat creep with long prints? Bed alignment should be done directly over the four bed retention screws, and not at the absolute corners. Otherwise it will take more than a couple of rounds over the entire bed to align. Doing so over the screws reduces the number of rounds.
How do you use the sd card along with the stl file
If you go in to the printers ment you can change the E steps, start at 400 and do anextruder test to get you final value
Cable management could be improved. Why didn’t you insert the extension cable to the existing wire harness? It would’ve taken a minute or two.
Can’t you just change the start code in the slicer?
whats the weight of that unit?
lets see it print something!!!
just ordered mine. the stock ender 3 hot end package is straight up garbage; PLA is the only thing one should ever run through that thing. I bought my ender 3 pro for $100, and now I'm spending $120 to make it right. I guess $220 total is decent for what I think should be a good package. just wish the shipping was quicker... I'm going through withdraws man!
Should I convert?? That is the question
the future you did
I like timestamps and conclusions. Otherwise I will revisit if I decide on this Hot end.
Hello Dopesoner! Your videos helped me flash my Xbox 360 disc drive with the kamikaze method. Without you I wouldn't have had a way to replace my disc drive without rgh! I wanted to ask, what happened to your social media accounts? It seems as if they're all gone, and all links to them are dead. Just trying to complete the rebrand?
Looks like you sent me a bad stepper motor, and although I have a TH3D pancake stepper that's nearly identical and works fine, you press-fit the gear so now my printer is probably down until you send another stepper motor to replace what I assume is the bad one. I don't think I will be buying your stuff anymore. I have yet to use your products successfully.
This is not Micro Swiss. I would recommend you contact them directly. They will get you taken care of.
Would be great to see a test print with that setup...
A test print doesn’t show much. Unless there is a specific material like a flexible or abrasive you would like printed. The consistency/reliability factor is not something that can be shown with just a print.
@@ModBotArmy But still. When you show an expensive upgrade, it would be great to see at least something :)
You add a 120$ hotend to a 170$ printer?🙄
madness, I agree but when you are hooked, your hooked
What happened to the filament sensor?
Really disappointed in microswiss on this one. No instructions included and I must have missed the point in people's videos talking about the extension cable and it's too switched wires. But come on who relies on community videos for their instructions. What you can R&D apart but you can't pay someone to write a paragraph? My printer does not extrude at all anymore I'm hoping that this garbage setup just blew a stepper driver and nothing else. Even a small card with a warning would have been nice. I thought it was just an extension to go from Bowden to direct drive.
Cut the price by half, i might consider it.
The 3d printer market is a toxic one tbh, after so much thinking, the whole market is just a joke... it's sad !!! Someone needs to step up it really is not as hard as it seems but we are still relying on tech from 20 years ago, what other industry does this! There has to be someone somewhere that just reinvents the wheel because that is what is needed for at home 3d printing... this is a dead end!
This looks cool until you try and install your ABL.
This all looks so over-complicated especially for a printer that's main selling point is being simple and low price
Yeah i was thinking the same thing. For God's sake I just want something at least a LITTLE plug and play lol. Like include the wiring harness and fans so i can just rip the old one off and be done with it. I take it the idea is to keep costs to the consumer as low as possible while still making a profit and i appreciate that. But this is one case where my current setup is 'good enough'. There are too many other things i would rather do with my time. At least until next winter comes and then maybe i will reconsider. It sure looks cool haha
120 bucks but u had to print parts for it? 🤪
😂😂😂
I didnt print parts for it, the shroud comes printed/installed. The optional printed part would be for the bl/cr touch.
@@ModBotArmy Ah okay 👍