So...Chris....you keep talking about why its important to go over hook up even though you've done it before. That was the part of this video most important to me. When I realized they had changed the hook ups (removing the fan screw in), I was like...wth? Opened the instructions which referred to one hook up as hb, which I had no idea what that meant and they didn't define it. I hooked it up, thinking maybe it meant heated bed, but I wasn't sure. Your video helped me VERY much by confirming where that fan went and what needed to be in the screw down plugs. Also, I had all my fans hooked up in the wrong place. LOL Thanks for taking the time to go over hook up again. That is what I needed to see. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Man, I am so glad you are so passionate about helping out the community. If it was for you, I'd probably would have given up. Thank you so much, and keep up the great work!
Appreciate the installation guide. I just went to install mine and was scratching my head trying to figure out how to connect the hot end fan. I just assumed I would be able to plug and play. This video cleared things up.
Thank you very much, there's alot of wrong wire diagrams floating around and your the only person to show exactly where things go. Thank you very much for putting up clear directions. Any other youtube video and I would have gotten multiple things wrong
Thanks so much for the in-depth instructions. I've had my printer for 2 months now so I' new to this. I added this upgrade and the difference in the sound is amazing. Can't wait to learn more uses for it.
Loving the vids! Nice pace, well done documentation, easy to understand lingo, and overall just a good approach on giving out information to the masses!! Long time viewer, so keep up the good work as you always seem to do. And be well!!
Nice review! The difference MCU chips make us hesitate to swap from E2, hope it will soon official supported by Klippers. BTT have awesome quality, we used around 1300pcs on Voron 0.1 Kit abs no any issues so far.
@@Apophis-en9pi I think 60% of our sells already to the final users but they may have chance to assemble it; still a lot on the way to distributors; global shipping is mess now.
Great video as always Chris! I just got this board to replace the v2.0 (my USB port broke off). I had some pre-wired JSTs that I could solder to the fan wires, and discovered that there are two standards for polarity with JSTs. There is the original RC standard which is opposite to this board, and there is also, for lack of a better word, Arduino standard, which is correct. Just wanted to mention for folks that get pre-wired JST plugs.
Just ordered mine after shorting my 1.2 when brushing of my nozzle 😉 Damn those naked cables on the heater... 😉 Thanks for the video, it really helps with the initial setup! 😁 Please continue making these even if its just a new version with some minor improvements 😊
Done the same thing on two different printers and boards. Connect a fuse on one of the cables. This way you should have no problems with blown boards. If you're lucky it´s only the heater circuit and/or thermistor circuit that´s blown, but the rest can work. Using klipper you can add the board as a auxiliary board, to run more steppers, more controlled fans, etc, etc.
Didn't plan on an upgrade, but my new Sprite all-metal hot end has a bltouch connector that won't fit into the BTT SKR Mini E3 v2 (it has a port for it, but it has a form-factor for a three-pin and a two-pin connector, instead of a straight-5 pin connector). Great video for covering everything I needed!
Thank you for all the information, by Ender 3 pro board died yesterday and I got the BigTreeTech - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 and had trouble finding all the info I needed to fit it, you filled in all the holes without taking forever to get there. Thanks, I have subscribed to keep up with all the changes
Appreciate you. I was struggling to find a good video with someone showing the entire process. I just got an Ender 3 Pro a few weeks ago as a cheap intro to 3d printing. It works great, it's just way too loud to be sitting 5ft away. With some fan upgrades, the new SKR mini and a couple other things hopefully we can get it down to a more manageable level.
Would love to get a tutorial on firmware, troubleshooting, I have mine installed but I don't have the 2 pin connector for one of the fans unfortunately (yet) now if they don't work I would love a video explaining more about it and how to solve it, great video by the way this is exactly what I've been looking for ever since i got the V3 for my ender 3!
Hey! I just got mine installed and got to build my own firmware. As said in the video, there is not marlin in the github yet, but in the btt github theres a marlin build you can work on. Just unzip in a directory and work from there! There is not much to do on it since it is preconfigured but you can tweak the bltouch and the stock settings.
I have moved way past the Ender series printers, but still have my very first old original Ender 3 standard. I recently upgraded it with this board and the CR Touch! It has many other upgrades, and still prints very well! I have two Anycubic Kobra 2 V2 that prints at 150 mm/sc. These print in a fraction and came with runout, power resume, auto mesh leveling, and direct drive extruder, all for $200.00.
Great Video Chris, a breath of fresh air as per. I got all the steps right in my installation except for the part cooling fan. It just doesn't work I've tried a lot to say the least. I do know for sure that the fan itself is working and I'm dealing with a firmware issue. The latest version of marlin I've tried is bugfix2.1
I was beginning to think so myself until I compared the pinout on the V3 board Vs those published on their site and the firmware. Turns out on the pin diagrams, the pins are listed as : HB - PC6 E0 - PC9 Fan2 - PB15 Fan0 - PC7 Fan1 - PC0 Whereas the firmware defines them as #define HEATER_0_PIN PC8 // "HE" #define HEATER_BED_PIN PC9 // "HB" #define FAN_PIN PC6 // "FAN0" #define FAN1_PIN PC7 // "FAN1" #define FAN2_PIN PB15 // "FAN2"
Picked up a used CR10 recently and was looking for a board. Didn't realize this was THIS new when I bought the v3 last week. Hopefully we'll have a config by the time it arrives.
I bought 2 of these boards, they've been sitting on my desk for a week now waiting for me to install them. I would love a follow up on this video about the sensorless set up. Thanks Chris
You just enable sensorless homing in your firmware and bridge sensorless homing pins with included little red bridge. I found it worst and more worrying than using actual switches and it's not that good as advertised. May be i am missing something important but it's from my experience.
@@hobbyistnotes you are missing something important. the stall detection threshold needs to be tuned for your steppers! if it's not, it will not work as well as it could if it were properly tuned.
Thanks, this setup video helped quite a bit! Now I just have to wait for someone to tune it and upload a .bin for an ender 3... my prints aren't coming out as good as the stock board/firmware
Chris really is the king of board upgrades on youtube. I'm pretty sure he can do these board upgrades in his sleep :-) I'm so going to get one of these boards for my Ender 5 plus. It needs a 'silent board', but these are cheaper and have way more features and a far better processor.
video is awesome and I got everything together, my only issue is that when I turn my printer on the screen lights up, but nothing else shows up, I turned off my printer in fear of something being wrong but I'm unsure of what to do about it.
Nice helpful video. Followed you step by step everything works except the extruder. it retracts and feeds in short steps. clockwise to counterclockwise, as if it is stuttering.
Thanks for your great videos, they have helped me so much over the years! Would you be willing to do a video on the BIQu Microprove v2 with the SKR mini e3 v3 marlin setup? I have both these bits coming for my Ender 3 v1 and am seeing that people are having trouble using the probe port on the board, they are having to use the Z MIN Endstop to make it work properly which would not allow the use of z endstop homing. There is a redit thread about this that talks about it I believe. Not sure if BTT has fixed this issue yet or not.
Thanks Chris. Bought the 4.2.7 board only to have the common Mosfet fry a few month later. Went with BTT 3 but was confused by the missing terminal block below the main input. Thanks for clearing that up. The Mosfet on the BBT is huge. Did you go ahead and put a heat sink on it?
Nice. got one for my ender 2 ( yeah I know) a couple of weeks ago after the original board failed. Currently trying to setup the auto bed levelling. Inductive prove. fingers crossed.
@@TheChriswhite77 hi chris . yeah i did.. just of the top of my head i think i had to go into one of the config files and reassign the pins. let me know if you still having probs and i will see if i have kept any records,.
That artifact line that you get on a benchy is exactly where the plimsol line would be, a plimsol line is a line marked on a vessel signifying the maximum water level for that particular vessel
Nice bit of trivia. Never knew what that was called. I'm not sure if that line actually shows in the slicer or STL renders though. Most people say it's an artifact from an internal feature. Maybe the deck layer, can't quite remember.
in the ender 3 pro in the green sockets there is a fan, the first 2 negative and positive, you don't say the cables where they are placed, and by the way, what fan is it? and on the board that you show there are only 2 connections for the bed and the hotend.
Check the pinout for polarity. Fan0 is the part fan, fan 1 or 2 can be the hotend fan or controller fan. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0/Hardware
Thank you for this video. As a person new to your channel, and new to replacing main boards, I'm glad that you took the time to explain the details, like using ferrules, the need to add a JST for the parts fan, typically fan 0 is for parts cooling, etc. Remember, nothing is old to us new guys! Again, thank you for taking the time to mention all of the little details which helps when researching board swaps. I am just a little confused about "no firmware" available. You say that they offer stock .BIN files on their GITHUB site, but I am not sure if I need to load these .BIN files or if they come preinstalled. Can you confirm what I would need to do to run standard Marlin, no BL touch.
I ordered one of these boards for my stock ender 3 pro. is it required that I put those JST plugs on the fan wires? I just dont have the supplies to do so right now, I was hoping to do this on a budget lol
I looked that printer up, it might be a good fit for it, but I have never looked at it's mainboard. You might have some issues getting the stock screen going.
One thing to point out on these, the one feature they're missing that might be a reason to not get it - While it has two z stepper plugs, there's not independent steppers for Z, so you can't do auto-tramming with it with Marlin.
BTT has boards that do that, I was thinking of getting another Octopus and trying that on my Ender 5 Plus. I really like the way it works on my Rat Rig
I didn't hear you mention a fuse, though it looks like they included one. Anything to do with safety is an improvement. I have the skr e3 mini v2, if I was to be upgrading the mainboard, I would probably buy the v3.. looks like their going in the right direction, but as you said usb-c would have been nice for futureproofing. I did mention this to them, but they wasn't interested and even seemed insulted, even though I was polite to them..
i have a Creality CR5 pro. I'm looking to upgrade to a 32 bit board. Which board would you recommend? I'm looking at the skr mini e3 and the skr3 ez board.
I don't know the CR5 well, but it really comes down to what plugs you need. The mini is a fine board, but you have only 4 drivers, so Z has to share. Also, it depends on what kind of screen you have, remember, the mini is meant for the ender 3 and can work on the old school CR10 with some code changes. The EZ is going to be more universal, but a lot larger.
thanks I just ordered this, and the jst connectors and crimper.. im gonna do this tomorrow to my ender 3 v2. im having weird issue currently where it homes fine starts the print does the ABL and then just goes to max x and max y and just extrudes forever in the same spot
@@Jockebanan99 i had to get the btt tft50 to get the display working. and everything mostly worked then.. now my cr touch isnt working so im doing it manually, gotta figure that out.. appearently its a common issue. that i dont know how to fix...yet
Hey, did you ever get this going? It kind of depends on how you configure the firmware. I personally like to use the Z min pins for my probe and just remove the Z endstop.
@@ChrisRiley hey thanks for replying! I did get it going, everything is good now, i am running this w/ the tft50. i apprecaite you man, ive gotten into this pretty hard in past 3 months and you've been a huuge help!
For the BTT Mini 12864 LCD's there's a way to wire and mod the firmware to work with the neopixel pins and EXT connector since it's missing EXT1 and EXT2. It's a pain but it's available and no SD support unfortunately.
Hey Chris, I need some help please getting the mini 3v3 to turn on. My first mini v3 I thought was fried cause when I plugged it into my computer no lights would come on nor comms link. So I bought a mini v2 and v3 just to test. Now the v2 will light up and establish a comms link when plugged into the computer but the new v3 still won't light up nor open a comms link... What's the odds that 2 mini 3 v3 are fried? Am I doing something wrong? Or does it require a power 12/24v power supply to come on? Mike
I keep getting "heating failed e1 printer halted" ive checked all my cabels and they are fine. I've also replaced my cables so I know it's not an issue with that. What is my problem?
Got one of these for my CR10 V3. The stock board for it is larger than the SKR Mini. I'm also putting in a BTT TFT35 V3 with it. I can't find firmware for the CR10 V3 anywhere
Thanks for the video Chris. I have two z steppers installed, would it be better to use the split cable or two separate cables and are there any issues to be aware of with either option? 👍
Hello Chris - I'm HOPING you might spot this, in spite of the age of this video??? I want to pick your brain for your off-the-top guess on where you think I might need to look first: about a year ago I upgraded my old Ender 3 with this SKR Mini E3 along with a BTT Pi in order to move into Klipper. For the most part things seem to work (from Klipper (mainsail) anyway) - BUT -- I can no longer print directly from the printer's control knob! I can "see" all the gcode files of jobs that have already been uploaded/printed, but there does NOT seem to be ANY way of selecting one with the knob/switch. Other things in the menu system seem to work (like setting temps, homing and manual moves of the hotend) but it sure would be nice once in awhile to fire it up and print something without all the steps of mainsail. At least for prints that have proven successful already. The other odd thing is that there is no way to connect to the SD card slot in the Mini - I can only see the card that the Pi boots from! Have any guess? Thanks in advance - even if all you do is read this and round-file it!
Not sure if you have seen this one, th-cam.com/video/guLfIbSH-Ig/w-d-xo.html but the only thing I can think of is the pins aren't mapped correctly for the mini to the screen. I remember there being some strange stuff with the LCD in Klipper, like it would set the print ready, but not start it or something like that. On the SD card on the board, that is standard fair for Klipper, it only talks to the MCU to load firmware, so Klipper can access it.
Hi Chris I love the video and it perfectly explained everything I needed to know! I'm currently looking into getting a different board for my Ender 3 pro because it died just the other day
I bought this board ,, arrived today, my V2 Turbo started giving heater error ( E-1) I'm thinking the thermistor plug on the board. I had replaced the orginial hot end and both heater block and thermistor, still got the error a few times. Installed this E3 V3 board and 1st print was very nice with stock firmware. It must have been that thermistor circuit on the board, in case anyone has this issue. I can see no problems on the old boeard. Thanks Chris for another great video, always appreciate your expertise and time !!
For hardware, yes, you will have to get and upated version of firmware to flash it for the CR10 changes. By default they are configured for the ender 3.
hey! thanks for the video. i’m installing it on my cr10s which has both the exp1/2 cables. would you recommend getting a th3d adapter so i can plug them both into the board or is there some alternative?
Chris, great video as usual. I am just in process of upgrading my Ender 3 Max, trying to improve first layer printing. I got a second Z screw and motor and wanted to add G34 gantry levelling. The SKR Mini E3 V3.0, looked like a great update so I did the two upgrades at the same time. Counting Driver output sockets instead of driver chips when the board makes the Z outputs link to the same driver! OOPS! my bad should have been more careful. Ender 3 MAX has 2 part cooling fans and the V4.2.2 board has 2 input connectors. Confusing, but worked it out. BTT diagrams, I downloaded all the docs from Github as usual, on the wiring diagram illustration the 3 hard wired ports DC In, HB and HE0 are all marked grey and green. HEADS UP! DC IN + and - are colour coded reversed against the other 2 inputs. Not complaining to you, but hope this may help someone else. Thanks for all your work.
Hey man love your vids! I was wondering if you have any tips in regards to custom builds using this board? I have been able to compille a firmware version but I am having issues in finding how to setup the current limit? As I am going to use different steppers than the standard Creality ones. Thank you so much for your work!
Thanks! You would have to get the motor specs from where you bought them. The most common NEMA 17 motors, 800mAh is usually more than enough. I would start low and increase the current slowly until they stop skipping. If the motors get too hot, then the current is too high.
Hey Chris! I just purchased this board and the TFT35 E3. V3 Touch Dual mode display. However after install when I try to do the 4 corner bed leveling, I get the front left and right corners done, but when I tap the button for either rear left or right it gets in position and rather than go down for the adjustment it seems to stop. However I noticed both Z motors were ever so slowly raising the extruder! I've installed updated firmware with no success so would this be a moment where I have to go in an custom edit the firmware?
That's a really strange issue. I would guess it's something with the screen. Sometimes the firmware on those does really odd things. Not sure exactly how to correct it.
I had the 4.2.2 board and now recently upgraded to the 4.2.7 with klipper. Is it worth it to get the skr or should I continue with the 4.2.7. How much better is the skr?
Please help me with a doubt, I installed my skr 3.0 on my ender v1, everything worked perfectly for 10 minutes, then it stopped and gave a Heated E1 error, I believe that the thermistor of the v1 is 12V and the skr 24v, so Please help me with this doubt, should I change to a hotend thermistor for 24v?
I realize this is an old post but how come I can not get a SD card reader extension to work? I use the 3D-printed rear-mounted control box that TeachingTech uses to relocate the hardware for my Ender 3. This board seems to work differently than the 2.0v.
Chris, great video! A few questions...I just ordered 3 of these to upgrade three CR-10S 3D Printers. (Ah, silent drivers!) The LCD for the CR-10 ha two cables so I am curious where the second would go? I'm also interested to know if the USB UART/Bus is improved? I know for many older boards, using Octoprint, if you tried to print too fast (more than 50 mm/s), you could incur some defects from the board's UART unable to keep up. (There' a few threads about this on the Octoprint forum) Thanks! Looking forward to receiving mine!
Just got my Version 3 board for my birthday last month. If I only have a stock endor 3 pro, do I need to HAVE the extra Marlin code or Kepler code, or can I use this board with just cura and nothing else?
@@InfinityDrones Download pronter face www.pronterface.com/ if you plugin USN to your computer Pronterface will be able to see it and you can control you printer to confirm the USB is working.
Quick question is it possible to connect the new creality screen to a skr e3 mini v3?... I know everybody's going to say just get a TFT35.... But I have a couple extra creality screens that I would love to use and not spend the money...
I have just installed this in my ender 3 v2. The screen is black and the buzzer sounds. Contacted BIGTREETECH and was told the stock screen is incomplete. Probably worth a mention. Now what ? Junk the board or get touch screen? Or is there a fix ?
Yep, the V2 screen is hard to deal with. You could make a new cable that would work, but it's not going to be easy. I would probably just swap to another screen.
hi could you help, ive fitted the e3 v3 to my ender 5 pro and the test print is very stretched in the z axis. i also have the biqu h2 v2 extruder fitted
I'm guessing you will have to update some of the setting in the firmware for the ender 5 as the board defaults to an ender 3. You can update some of these commands in eeprom so you don't have to flash new firmware if you use a tool like pronterface. www.pronterface.com/
The slow boat finally arrived and I have this board in hand now. Plan is to replace the stock Ender 3 board + LCD with this one and the touch screen. I also have the BTT UPS board that I need to add. Based on your BTT UPS video it appears like at this point it cannot be used with this board since Marlin cannot yet be compiled for it? Or is it possible to set it up without recompiling?
So...Chris....you keep talking about why its important to go over hook up even though you've done it before. That was the part of this video most important to me. When I realized they had changed the hook ups (removing the fan screw in), I was like...wth? Opened the instructions which referred to one hook up as hb, which I had no idea what that meant and they didn't define it. I hooked it up, thinking maybe it meant heated bed, but I wasn't sure. Your video helped me VERY much by confirming where that fan went and what needed to be in the screw down plugs. Also, I had all my fans hooked up in the wrong place. LOL Thanks for taking the time to go over hook up again. That is what I needed to see. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Awesome to hear, I am glad these are still useful.
The tutorial for getting everything plugged into the board is still super helpful for those of us just getting into it!! Keep up the good work man!
Thanks! Will do!
Man, I am so glad you are so passionate about helping out the community. If it was for you, I'd probably would have given up. Thank you so much, and keep up the great work!
I appreciate that!
Appreciate the installation guide. I just went to install mine and was scratching my head trying to figure out how to connect the hot end fan. I just assumed I would be able to plug and play. This video cleared things up.
Glad it helped!
Totally cheesed me off that they call it "plug and play"because of this. Like I am supposed to have these laying around being a hobbyist
Thank you very much, there's alot of wrong wire diagrams floating around and your the only person to show exactly where things go. Thank you very much for putting up clear directions. Any other youtube video and I would have gotten multiple things wrong
I'm happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this, helped a lot for troubleshooting what fans go into what port
Awesome! Glad it helped.
The video I’ve been waiting for!
me too! Thank you Chris! Now I will buy it!!!!!
Thank you!
Thanks so much for the in-depth instructions. I've had my printer for 2 months now so I' new to this. I added this upgrade and the difference in the sound is amazing. Can't wait to learn more uses for it.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
Excellent video. I was concerned about fan location. Other videos did not even explain it. Thanks you so much for making such a quality video.
Glad it was helpful!
Loving the vids!
Nice pace, well done documentation, easy to understand lingo, and overall just a good approach on giving out information to the masses!!
Long time viewer, so keep up the good work as you always seem to do.
And be well!!
Glad you like them!
I accidentally bought this board back in November as an impulse buy and I'm so glad I did, it looks great
😁👍
It's the first video I see from this channel. Really good quality and nicely explained, and most important, nice guy!. Congrats from Spain! :)
Thank you
Nice review! The difference MCU chips make us hesitate to swap from E2, hope it will soon official supported by Klippers. BTT have awesome quality, we used around 1300pcs on Voron 0.1 Kit abs no any issues so far.
Thanks Jason, that's a good point that I didn't think of.
Wow. There must be so many vorons without serials. The v0 only has a little over 1k serials.
@@Apophis-en9pi I think 60% of our sells already to the final users but they may have chance to assemble it; still a lot on the way to distributors; global shipping is mess now.
Great video as always Chris! I just got this board to replace the v2.0 (my USB port broke off). I had some pre-wired JSTs that I could solder to the fan wires, and discovered that there are two standards for polarity with JSTs. There is the original RC standard which is opposite to this board, and there is also, for lack of a better word, Arduino standard, which is correct. Just wanted to mention for folks that get pre-wired JST plugs.
Thanks a lot!
Reading your comment a bit too late myself 😅
Thank you Chris for this review. I bought the board after watching this video
Hope you enjoy it!
clear and straightforward explanation, nice work dude!
Thanks!
Thanks Chris, for a good review, I am looking forward to install this based on your guidance..
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your projects!
Just ordered mine after shorting my 1.2 when brushing of my nozzle 😉 Damn those naked cables on the heater... 😉 Thanks for the video, it really helps with the initial setup! 😁 Please continue making these even if its just a new version with some minor improvements 😊
Thank you! Will do!
Done the same thing on two different printers and boards. Connect a fuse on one of the cables. This way you should have no problems with blown boards.
If you're lucky it´s only the heater circuit and/or thermistor circuit that´s blown, but the rest can work.
Using klipper you can add the board as a auxiliary board, to run more steppers, more controlled fans, etc, etc.
Thank you for still making these videos!👍
Glad you like them!
Didn't plan on an upgrade, but my new Sprite all-metal hot end has a bltouch connector that won't fit into the BTT SKR Mini E3 v2 (it has a port for it, but it has a form-factor for a three-pin and a two-pin connector, instead of a straight-5 pin connector). Great video for covering everything I needed!
Awesome, glad it help with your project.
And... I also did get the yellow duck, the crown of victory on my board upgrade!!!
Thank you for all the information, by Ender 3 pro board died yesterday and I got the BigTreeTech - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 and had trouble finding all the info I needed to fit it, you filled in all the holes without taking forever to get there. Thanks, I have subscribed to keep up with all the changes
Glad I could help. Thanks for the sub!
Appreciate you. I was struggling to find a good video with someone showing the entire process.
I just got an Ender 3 Pro a few weeks ago as a cheap intro to 3d printing. It works great, it's just way too loud to be sitting 5ft away.
With some fan upgrades, the new SKR mini and a couple other things hopefully we can get it down to a more manageable level.
Thank you, good luck with your projects!
Would love to get a tutorial on firmware, troubleshooting, I have mine installed but I don't have the 2 pin connector for one of the fans unfortunately (yet) now if they don't work I would love a video explaining more about it and how to solve it, great video by the way this is exactly what I've been looking for ever since i got the V3 for my ender 3!
Hey, when Marlin gets updated for the board I will look at doing a firmware setup video.
Hey! I just got mine installed and got to build my own firmware. As said in the video, there is not marlin in the github yet, but in the btt github theres a marlin build you can work on. Just unzip in a directory and work from there! There is not much to do on it since it is preconfigured but you can tweak the bltouch and the stock settings.
@@deathcube2006 Oh nice! Thanks for the info.
@@ChrisRiley Wonder why this is taking so long? I've never seen Marlin so slow to support a board.
@@deathcube2006 Do you have a link to this zip by chance?
Got my board yesterday! Thanks for the video
Hope you enjoy it! Good luck with your projects
Can you set the stepper motor current. I didn't see any trim pots. Thanks Chris! Your videos are so helpfull.
Yes, depending on the firmware you can run a command to set it. In Marlin it's M906.
Thanks dude, u always make my day!!
Glad to hear that! Thank you
I have moved way past the Ender series printers, but still have my very first old original Ender 3 standard. I recently upgraded it with this board and the CR Touch! It has many other upgrades, and still prints very well! I have two Anycubic Kobra 2 V2 that prints at 150 mm/sc. These print in a fraction and came with runout, power resume, auto mesh leveling, and direct drive extruder, all for $200.00.
That's awesome! Those Enders are pretty good!
I'm so glad you did this video
Thank you
Great Video Chris, a breath of fresh air as per. I got all the steps right in my installation except for the part cooling fan. It just doesn't work I've tried a lot to say the least. I do know for sure that the fan itself is working and I'm dealing with a firmware issue. The latest version of marlin I've tried is bugfix2.1
Strange, if the wiring is correct and it doesn't come on when you run a M106 S255 then it has to be something wrong with the board.
I was beginning to think so myself until I compared the pinout on the V3 board Vs those published on their site and the firmware. Turns out on the pin diagrams, the pins are listed as :
HB - PC6
E0 - PC9
Fan2 - PB15
Fan0 - PC7
Fan1 - PC0
Whereas the firmware defines them as
#define HEATER_0_PIN PC8 // "HE"
#define HEATER_BED_PIN PC9 // "HB"
#define FAN_PIN PC6 // "FAN0"
#define FAN1_PIN PC7 // "FAN1"
#define FAN2_PIN PB15 // "FAN2"
Picked up a used CR10 recently and was looking for a board. Didn't realize this was THIS new when I bought the v3 last week. Hopefully we'll have a config by the time it arrives.
Good luck with your projects
Good review. I have had really good results with my BTT boards - 5 mini V2 and the Octopus. They have a good product at a reasonable price.
Thanks Dave, for the most part I have had really good luck with these.
Great video man! Love stayin up to date with ya. The new set is so nice !
Awesome! Thank you!
Merry Christmas Chris 🎅
And a Happy New Year!!!
This is great review. Thank you for all the effort.
Thanks for watching!
I bought 2 of these boards, they've been sitting on my desk for a week now waiting for me to install them. I would love a follow up on this video about the sensorless set up. Thanks Chris
You just enable sensorless homing in your firmware and bridge sensorless homing pins with included little red bridge. I found it worst and more worrying than using actual switches and it's not that good as advertised. May be i am missing something important but it's from my experience.
Thanks @hobbyist notes as stated, it's very strait forward.
@@hobbyistnotes you are missing something important. the stall detection threshold needs to be tuned for your steppers! if it's not, it will not work as well as it could if it were properly tuned.
Thanks for a great video!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks, this setup video helped quite a bit! Now I just have to wait for someone to tune it and upload a .bin for an ender 3... my prints aren't coming out as good as the stock board/firmware
Good luck!
Thanks for the great detail!
Thanks for watching
I bought one because the mosfett on my first printer failed. Thanks for the tips! Hope I can get mine up and running
Good luck!
@@ChrisRiley it is all up and running!
I got 2 of these in the last 2 weeks....no ducks!
Out of ducks!!! No!!!!!!!!
Chris really is the king of board upgrades on youtube. I'm pretty sure he can do these board upgrades in his sleep :-)
I'm so going to get one of these boards for my Ender 5 plus. It needs a 'silent board', but these are cheaper and have way more features and a far better processor.
Lol, thanks
Very helpful thank you. With the pairs of wires that are the same color how do you know which is positive and negative
Thanks! Which wires are you referring to?
video is awesome and I got everything together, my only issue is that when I turn my printer on the screen lights up, but nothing else shows up, I turned off my printer in fear of something being wrong but I'm unsure of what to do about it.
Even if it's blank, it should be okay to turn it on. It's probably a firmware config. Do you know what screen this is?
great review! still waiting on my boards. Basement remodel looks sick!
Thanks, it was a lot of hard work!
Fantastic, have one on the way. Great video!
Awesome! Thank you!
This video just helped me a lot!
Great, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video, Chris
Glad you enjoyed it!
You’re the best, Thank you so much!
Thank you
Nice helpful video. Followed you step by step everything works except the extruder. it retracts and feeds in short steps. clockwise to counterclockwise, as if it is stuttering.
Search for M92 and check you E steps again just to make sure.
Nice video. I got this board for my Ender 3 Neo but couldn't get it to work. The homing was all off no matter what firmware or settings I used.
Not sure on the NEO, it might use a different kind of endstop than the other printers.
Thanks for your great videos, they have helped me so much over the years! Would you be willing to do a video on the BIQu Microprove v2 with the SKR mini e3 v3 marlin setup? I have both these bits coming for my Ender 3 v1 and am seeing that people are having trouble using the probe port on the board, they are having to use the Z MIN Endstop to make it work properly which would not allow the use of z endstop homing. There is a redit thread about this that talks about it I believe. Not sure if BTT has fixed this issue yet or not.
Hey, thanks for watching over the years. I don't have one of those probes, but let me see if they will send me one and I will see what I can do.
Thanks Chris. Bought the 4.2.7 board only to have the common Mosfet fry a few month later. Went with BTT 3 but was confused by the missing terminal block below the main input. Thanks for clearing that up. The Mosfet on the BBT is huge. Did you go ahead and put a heat sink on it?
Thanks for watching! Mine has been running pretty well so far. I didn't put the heatsink, but it couldn't hurt.
Nice. got one for my ender 2 ( yeah I know) a couple of weeks ago after the original board failed.
Currently trying to setup the auto bed levelling. Inductive prove. fingers crossed.
Good luck with your projects!
Did you get your bed leveling to work? I am having troubling getting it to work with this new board.
@@TheChriswhite77 Actually, I never tried. I only have it on a manually leveled printer.
@@TheChriswhite77 hi chris . yeah i did.. just of the top of my head i think i had to go into one of the config files and reassign the pins. let me know if you still having probs and i will see if i have kept any records,.
You're the man Chris! Love your work
Glad you enjoy it! Thanks
That artifact line that you get on a benchy is exactly where the plimsol line would be, a plimsol line is a line marked on a vessel signifying the maximum water level for that particular vessel
Cool! Thanks for watching
Nice bit of trivia. Never knew what that was called. I'm not sure if that line actually shows in the slicer or STL renders though. Most people say it's an artifact from an internal feature. Maybe the deck layer, can't quite remember.
in the ender 3 pro in the green sockets there is a fan, the first 2 negative and positive, you don't say the cables where they are placed, and by the way, what fan is it? and on the board that you show there are only 2 connections for the bed and the hotend.
Check the pinout for polarity. Fan0 is the part fan, fan 1 or 2 can be the hotend fan or controller fan. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0/Hardware
Thank you for this video. As a person new to your channel, and new to replacing main boards, I'm glad that you took the time to explain the details, like using ferrules, the need to add a JST for the parts fan, typically fan 0 is for parts cooling, etc. Remember, nothing is old to us new guys! Again, thank you for taking the time to mention all of the little details which helps when researching board swaps.
I am just a little confused about "no firmware" available. You say that they offer stock .BIN files on their GITHUB site, but I am not sure if I need to load these .BIN files or if they come preinstalled. Can you confirm what I would need to do to run standard Marlin, no BL touch.
Board comes with standard firmware. So if you dont have bltouch or anything fancy just swap it and youll be fine
Thanks!
@@deathcube2006 what if I'm replacing a anet a8 plus v1.7 board with this could I use standard firmware but adjust parameters
Thanks my guy! your channel is fantastic for an upgrade newb like me.
Glad to hear it!
I ordered one of these boards for my stock ender 3 pro. is it required that I put those JST plugs on the fan wires? I just dont have the supplies to do so right now, I was hoping to do this on a budget lol
It's going to be pretty hard if you don't. You could get some pig tails and splice them or solder them? amzn.to/3O8V34p
I love the smell of new circuit boards... squeek squeek
😂👍
Thanks for the video! Do you think this would be worth installing on a Voxelab Aquila?
I looked that printer up, it might be a good fit for it, but I have never looked at it's mainboard. You might have some issues getting the stock screen going.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the response! Would you recommend any replacement screens that would work?
4:03 "Right over here we have an on-board EEPROM" while pointing at a diode. Oh well, at least I got a laugh.
🙂
One thing to point out on these, the one feature they're missing that might be a reason to not get it - While it has two z stepper plugs, there's not independent steppers for Z, so you can't do auto-tramming with it with Marlin.
Thanks for your insight!
BTT has boards that do that, I was thinking of getting another Octopus and trying that on my Ender 5 Plus. I really like the way it works on my Rat Rig
@@woodwaker1 Yeah, the SKR E3 Turbo can, too.
Have you ever done a vid with this board comparing the BLTouch to sensorless homing? I'd like to see one....
I haven't but that's a good idea, I will look into it.
I didn't hear you mention a fuse, though it looks like they included one. Anything to do with safety is an improvement.
I have the skr e3 mini v2, if I was to be upgrading the mainboard, I would probably buy the v3.. looks like their going in the right direction, but as you said usb-c would have been nice for futureproofing.
I did mention this to them, but they wasn't interested and even seemed insulted, even though I was polite to them..
Thanks for watching!
i have a Creality CR5 pro. I'm looking to upgrade to a 32 bit board. Which board would you recommend? I'm looking at the skr mini e3 and the skr3 ez board.
I don't know the CR5 well, but it really comes down to what plugs you need. The mini is a fine board, but you have only 4 drivers, so Z has to share. Also, it depends on what kind of screen you have, remember, the mini is meant for the ender 3 and can work on the old school CR10 with some code changes. The EZ is going to be more universal, but a lot larger.
thanks I just ordered this, and the jst connectors and crimper.. im gonna do this tomorrow to my ender 3 v2. im having weird issue currently where it homes fine starts the print does the ABL and then just goes to max x and max y and just extrudes forever in the same spot
How did it work out with the display on your Ender-3 V2 and this board?
@@Jockebanan99 i had to get the btt tft50 to get the display working. and everything mostly worked then.. now my cr touch isnt working so im doing it manually, gotta figure that out.. appearently its a common issue. that i dont know how to fix...yet
Hey, did you ever get this going? It kind of depends on how you configure the firmware. I personally like to use the Z min pins for my probe and just remove the Z endstop.
@@ChrisRiley hey thanks for replying! I did get it going, everything is good now, i am running this w/ the tft50. i apprecaite you man, ive gotten into this pretty hard in past 3 months and you've been a huuge help!
@@blacknovella Awesome!
For the BTT Mini 12864 LCD's there's a way to wire and mod the firmware to work with the neopixel pins and EXT connector since it's missing EXT1 and EXT2. It's a pain but it's available and no SD support unfortunately.
Nice! I didn't know that, thanks Mitch!
Hey Chris, I need some help please getting the mini 3v3 to turn on. My first mini v3 I thought was fried cause when I plugged it into my computer no lights would come on nor comms link. So I bought a mini v2 and v3 just to test. Now the v2 will light up and establish a comms link when plugged into the computer but the new v3 still won't light up nor open a comms link... What's the odds that 2 mini 3 v3 are fried? Am I doing something wrong? Or does it require a power 12/24v power supply to come on?
Mike
You have to switch the VCC USB jumper to get them to light up via USB. It's a red jumper, if you can't find it I will get you a pic.
Hi, is it possible to connect LCD 12864 to this board BIGTREETECH BTT SKR Mini E3 V3.0?
You would need a converter or use a ENDER 3 style screen.
I just ordered one 😁
Will it come with Klipper installed 🤔
I would guess, no. :)
@@ChrisRiley do we need still install software ourselves it will come empty? No software?
I keep getting "heating failed e1 printer halted" ive checked all my cabels and they are fine. I've also replaced my cables so I know it's not an issue with that. What is my problem?
E1 sounds strange, I think it should say E0. Is this the stock firmware?
Great video man! , Can I flash Creality frimware on it ?
I have Creality Sermoon D1
Thanks! I don't think it would work, the pin assignments would be different.
Got one of these for my CR10 V3. The stock board for it is larger than the SKR Mini. I'm also putting in a BTT TFT35 V3 with it. I can't find firmware for the CR10 V3 anywhere
I didn't even know there was a V3. I would guess the stock CR10 config would work of the most part with a few added tweaks.
@@ChrisRiley Using the V2 firmware. The V3 has dual Z like the V2. It has direct drive so e steps are way off
Thanks for the video Chris. I have two z steppers installed, would it be better to use the split cable or two separate cables and are there any issues to be aware of with either option? 👍
Both options should be exactly the same. I would just go with 2 cables I think.
Hello Chris - I'm HOPING you might spot this, in spite of the age of this video??? I want to pick your brain for your off-the-top guess on where you think I might need to look first: about a year ago I upgraded my old Ender 3 with this SKR Mini E3 along with a BTT Pi in order to move into Klipper. For the most part things seem to work (from Klipper (mainsail) anyway) - BUT -- I can no longer print directly from the printer's control knob! I can "see" all the gcode files of jobs that have already been uploaded/printed, but there does NOT seem to be ANY way of selecting one with the knob/switch. Other things in the menu system seem to work (like setting temps, homing and manual moves of the hotend) but it sure would be nice once in awhile to fire it up and print something without all the steps of mainsail. At least for prints that have proven successful already.
The other odd thing is that there is no way to connect to the SD card slot in the Mini - I can only see the card that the Pi boots from!
Have any guess?
Thanks in advance - even if all you do is read this and round-file it!
Not sure if you have seen this one, th-cam.com/video/guLfIbSH-Ig/w-d-xo.html but the only thing I can think of is the pins aren't mapped correctly for the mini to the screen. I remember there being some strange stuff with the LCD in Klipper, like it would set the print ready, but not start it or something like that.
On the SD card on the board, that is standard fair for Klipper, it only talks to the MCU to load firmware, so Klipper can access it.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you by the BOATLOAD, to put it simply! I'll take a look!
Owe you one!!!
Note to self:
Come back and pay up!
Hi Chris I love the video and it perfectly explained everything I needed to know! I'm currently looking into getting a different board for my Ender 3 pro because it died just the other day
I'm so glad I could help. Good luck with your projects
I bought this board ,, arrived today, my V2 Turbo started giving heater error ( E-1) I'm thinking the thermistor plug on the board. I had replaced the orginial hot end and both heater block and thermistor, still got the error a few times.
Installed this E3 V3 board and 1st print was very nice with stock firmware.
It must have been that thermistor circuit on the board, in case anyone has this issue. I can see no problems on the old boeard.
Thanks Chris for another great video, always appreciate your expertise and time !!
Hello, does this board act as a direct replacement for the CR-10S with the v4.2.2 board?
For hardware, yes, you will have to get and upated version of firmware to flash it for the CR10 changes. By default they are configured for the ender 3.
hey! thanks for the video. i’m installing it on my cr10s which has both the exp1/2 cables. would you recommend getting a th3d adapter so i can plug them both into the board or is there some alternative?
That's probably the best thing to do, you can find those a lot of places now a days.
This was really helpful.
I'm glad, thanks for watching
Chris, great video as usual. I am just in process of upgrading my Ender 3 Max, trying to improve first layer printing. I got a second Z screw and motor and wanted to add G34 gantry levelling. The SKR Mini E3 V3.0, looked like a great update so I did the two upgrades at the same time. Counting Driver output sockets instead of driver chips when the board makes the Z outputs link to the same driver! OOPS! my bad should have been more careful. Ender 3 MAX has 2 part cooling fans and the V4.2.2 board has 2 input connectors. Confusing, but worked it out. BTT diagrams, I downloaded all the docs from Github as usual, on the wiring diagram illustration the 3 hard wired ports DC In, HB and HE0 are all marked grey and green. HEADS UP! DC IN + and - are colour coded reversed against the other 2 inputs. Not complaining to you, but hope this may help someone else. Thanks for all your work.
This is great info, thanks!
Hey man love your vids! I was wondering if you have any tips in regards to custom builds using this board? I have been able to compille a firmware version but I am having issues in finding how to setup the current limit? As I am going to use different steppers than the standard Creality ones. Thank you so much for your work!
Thanks! You would have to get the motor specs from where you bought them. The most common NEMA 17 motors, 800mAh is usually more than enough. I would start low and increase the current slowly until they stop skipping. If the motors get too hot, then the current is too high.
Hey Chris! I just purchased this board and the TFT35 E3. V3 Touch Dual mode display. However after install when I try to do the 4 corner bed leveling, I get the front left and right corners done, but when I tap the button for either rear left or right it gets in position and rather than go down for the adjustment it seems to stop. However I noticed both Z motors were ever so slowly raising the extruder! I've installed updated firmware with no success so would this be a moment where I have to go in an custom edit the firmware?
That's a really strange issue. I would guess it's something with the screen. Sometimes the firmware on those does really odd things. Not sure exactly how to correct it.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris. I think I'm going to go back to the old screen for now.
Want to replace an H32 board wirh either the Creality 4.2.7 or the SKR Mini E3 V3. Your thoughts.
The mini has a lot more options on it and is probably cheaper.
I had the 4.2.2 board and now recently upgraded to the 4.2.7 with klipper. Is it worth it to get the skr or should I continue with the 4.2.7. How much better is the skr?
Unless you need more ports for some reason, they are going to be about the same.
Could I use a Z axis proximity sensor instead of the bl touch sensor? If so, which pins would work with this? Could I use the bottom 3 Z probe pins?
It depends on the sensor, but yes, it you still want to have a Z min switch the probe pins will work.
I'm assuming you mean the BT sensor pins? Thanks, Chris. I burnt up the board btw. DoH!
hi Chris. .. I just followed your tutorial , after all installed. my Auto homing failed.. do you know why ?
What did it do when you hit auto home? Anything at all? Are you using sensorless?
@@ChrisRiley I have fixed it .. seems the belt it too tight. thanks .. do you know how to add wifi to the board ? is it possible to use BTT TF cloud ?
Please help me with a doubt, I installed my skr 3.0 on my ender v1, everything worked perfectly for 10 minutes, then it stopped and gave a Heated E1 error, I believe that the thermistor of the v1 is 12V and the skr 24v, so Please help me with this doubt, should I change to a hotend thermistor for 24v?
The termistor won't have a voltage rating, it's probably a firmware issue. Values for thermal runaway need to be adjusted.
Hello,
should one set EZ5160 Pro motor voltage? and in Marlin Configuration for EZ5160 Pro, what driver should i choose?
Thank you very much
I'm not sure on the EZ stuff yet, I am still working on it. It would depend on what motor you want to use. 5160 is for larger steppers.
I realize this is an old post but how come I can not get a SD card reader extension to work? I use the 3D-printed rear-mounted control box that TeachingTech uses to relocate the hardware for my Ender 3. This board seems to work differently than the 2.0v.
I don't know, I would think SD card extender would work just fine.
Chris, great video! A few questions...I just ordered 3 of these to upgrade three CR-10S 3D Printers. (Ah, silent drivers!) The LCD for the CR-10 ha two cables so I am curious where the second would go? I'm also interested to know if the USB UART/Bus is improved? I know for many older boards, using Octoprint, if you tried to print too fast (more than 50 mm/s), you could incur some defects from the board's UART unable to keep up. (There' a few threads about this on the Octoprint forum) Thanks! Looking forward to receiving mine!
Paul, the display will need a Y adapter cable (also available from BTT via Amazon) to work with the CR10S display.
@@BenEBrady good to know, thanks!!
😁👍
That is what I need , I have a Ender 3 pro that is very loud and fans run all the time … Great video
Thank you!
so we meet again Chris hopefully we have better luck this time.
I hope so too! Good luck on your projects
Just got my Version 3 board for my birthday last month. If I only have a stock endor 3 pro, do I need to HAVE the extra Marlin code or Kepler code, or can I use this board with just cura and nothing else?
If you just have the stock ender 3, it should work as is, no firmware update required.
@@ChrisRiley Awesome, thank you.
Have you been able to get it to connect with Octoprint? Octopring does not detect my printer...
It connects on mine, it could be a problem with the USB port. Test and see if you PC can see it.
@@ChrisRiley how do I test it to the PC? If I plug it into the pc what would the pc so? Detect the SD card?
@@InfinityDrones Download pronter face www.pronterface.com/ if you plugin USN to your computer Pronterface will be able to see it and you can control you printer to confirm the USB is working.
Quick question is it possible to connect the new creality screen to a skr e3 mini v3?... I know everybody's going to say just get a TFT35.... But I have a couple extra creality screens that I would love to use and not spend the money...
It depends which one. If it's the one like on the Ender 3 V2, I am not sure that will work. The 12864 style with no SD card would work just fine.
@@ChrisRiley thanks Chris and of course that's the style I have is the Ender 3 v2...my luck lol
I have just installed this in my ender 3 v2.
The screen is black and the buzzer sounds. Contacted BIGTREETECH and was told the stock screen is incomplete.
Probably worth a mention. Now what ?
Junk the board or get touch screen? Or is there a fix ?
Yep, the V2 screen is hard to deal with. You could make a new cable that would work, but it's not going to be easy. I would probably just swap to another screen.
hi could you help, ive fitted the e3 v3 to my ender 5 pro and the test print is very stretched in the z axis.
i also have the biqu h2 v2 extruder fitted
I'm guessing you will have to update some of the setting in the firmware for the ender 5 as the board defaults to an ender 3. You can update some of these commands in eeprom so you don't have to flash new firmware if you use a tool like pronterface. www.pronterface.com/
The slow boat finally arrived and I have this board in hand now. Plan is to replace the stock Ender 3 board + LCD with this one and the touch screen. I also have the BTT UPS board that I need to add. Based on your BTT UPS video it appears like at this point it cannot be used with this board since Marlin cannot yet be compiled for it? Or is it possible to set it up without recompiling?
Check out Marlin 2.0.9.3, it has a config for this board now in the creality ender 3 examples folder.
This video was super helpful for getting this board into my cr10s5! Only issue is I'm now stuck with getting firmware loaded on for the device
I hope this helps, thanks for watching
github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.1.x/config