Thanks Chris, really cool that you keep them coming. The community appreciates your deep dives! as you are talking about speed; i know you have already done a video, but things have matured a lot: Klipper! I manage to do good.15 LH benchies with a .3 nozzle in 1h10m using Klipper on a corexy; i switched back and forth with Marlin/Klipper, and Marlin could not handle the crazy speed of my profile (100mms, 3000accel, 200mms non print move)- even on my 32 bit skr board. From a visual standpoint it is amazing to see the steppers fly and the machine is trying not to fall apart, whilst still producing a decent result. Maybe a fun challenge to see how far speed can be pushed?
Not changing retraction settings after changing from stock to all metal hotend is a common point of failure. Maybe because people are excited to print right away after successfully swapping out the hotend. Glad you mentioned it. 👍😀
Well done for renaming the original files. Ive seen others not do this. Newbies can end up in a mess if they can't go back to the Original Settings because they overwrote them using the wrong files.. It's Good Practice to do things this way, in general.
My recommended upgrades for the ender 3 is the bond tech direct drive extruder with an all metal hotend. I went with the e3d v6 as already had spare parts from my prusa. Honestly after going to direct drive and an all metal hotend I just use my prusa profiles from prusa slicer and results are near identical. Edit: I use the bontech bmg clone on Amazon.
need to mention that mosquito will allow you to print every material where the stock extruder is limited to around 240c before you start having issue so will be very limited to your material choices. The mosquito is for sure worth the money if you want a great hotend.
I like your videos - there is certainly space to improve (audio quality would be my first choice) but I definitely enjoy experiments you show and less "look at my prints" more "you can try this and this will help" approach. Your videos tend to save me from some problems although often show something that I've already tried and loose some hair figuring out what to do ;) Keep up the good job!
Great video Chris, It was really interesting to see this on a bowden set up over a direct drive. I think you came up with some good results, essentially dropping the retract down from ~4 to ~2.5. The mosquito really does cool better. Thanks for putting in all that benchy time.
Now I can't really justify a hot end like that for the ender , so I'm off to buy a 90mm hot end cooling fan to see how well I can cool the hot end . 🤣🤣 Retraction be gone!! 🤣🤣
Ran a microswiss at 4mm/35 for a long time. Then I enabled linear advance and cut it down to 1mm. Used Teaching Tech's retraction tower. Is it strange that I've never printed a benchy? Lol.
Another great informative video! Was just discussing retraction settings today with a friend and wondering what the impact of reducing that amount was. Now I know!
The real reason to get one of these is that it doesnt fail nearly as often. Put hundreds of spools of carbon fiber nylon through it. This hotend is probably more for folks like me who print higher temp materials like polycarbonate. A stock v6 lasted 2 prints at 320c
in all honesty yes. but keep in mind the clone people don't have to pair any engineers that designed it. but in reality. the good thing about this is just convenience + size and lack of the need for a big fancy fan and all that. the thermal efficiency is amazing on this. but as long as you don't want an all metal even the cheap stuff work. but their thermistors usually suck and are inaccurate. for me I got a dirt cheap clone and just bought a genuine thermistor from e3d and a titanium heatbreak from 3d passion and it works great :)
@@ChrisRiley very much looking forward to it. Also picked up the heating element and thermistor, so I've got the whole package on the way. Gonna upgrade to a 120v bed at some point in the near future, and it'll be complete (for a time)!
I wonder how much of a difference the new hotend actually made, my guess is that most of the quality improvement was from switching to the new nozzle itself..... maybe...
Seasoning the heatbreak , retraction length and retraction speed and how they effect the print and the speed of printing is good information even if you use a cheap E3D clone...
Using Slice Engineering's cooling fan is terrible. The resonance travels right down to the tip of the nozzle (while performing Z offset, tip was vibrating the glass bed) and that's gonna end up in the print as ringing or such. Have you had any issues with the vibrations?
Ok, for instance, I installed this Mosquito on Ender3. What the maximum speed will I get? Now I have stable 90mm/s...I had very hot motors after 15h print. Will I get...120-150 with this cinematic (without changing motors, probably not)? P.S. I realized that you did and why) it is just my question. Thanks for experiment.
Thanks Chris. Great presentation for a begginer like me who want to upgrade his original hot end at his Ender 5 Pro. I have understood a lot of things. Thumb up ! ( If I may ... For God sake, speak not so fast we are not all americans, lol !)
I'd like to know your thoughts on the piper3d printer or other emt projects such as the mpcnc/lowrider v2 and tall string/emt printer at MRRF this year
Hey Chris, Great video once again! Have you got any idea what the Z difference is between this hotend, and the stock Creality hotend? I want to put a Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum on my Ender 5+ But I will need to make a adjustment to the bltouch sensor which came preinstalled on that machine.
I applaud your passion for making videos, but i think in this case you focused on the wrong thing. The hotend has little to do with retraction settings, the hotzone is very small compared to the flex that the bowden tube has when retracting. Theoretically with a rigid tube (if a rigid flex tube was possible) the retraction would be the same as with a direct drive printer. The way to reduce the distance of the retraction is a shorter, stiffer and better quality bowden tube + great quality couplers
I wouldn't buy this as I would say my standard Ender 3 results are better than this upgrade using Cura 4.0 and Luke Hadfield's profile and Flashforge PLA at 60/210 degrees, however, I would like to see this setup with a dialed in profile
you sir, well...you must be a coder, because we are the only ones that "enjoy" this type of "torture". So, does that mean your print height has decreased?
Beware if you are using Linux and installed Arduino IDE from the repository, In Debian based distros (ubuntu, mint) i think everything is ok but for all the others if you just downloaded Arduino IDE you might wanna see if you have a programmer selected in the tools section otherwise you will get the same bootloader error on a machine that already has a bootloader
@@ChrisRiley not at all. I set up a short but quick retraction after reading about how retraction mostly works to release built up pressure of the filament in the bowden tube. Think like a spring. So a fast retraction is best to release that energy and keep the filament from oozing. a short fast retraction I have also found helps with seams in the perimeters. The filament doesn't cool too much and the flow of melted plastic doesn't slow down too much either so you get a more consistent flow at the beginning of a perimeter.
@@ChrisRiley I wonder if a "legit Chinese copy" of microswiss from TriangleLab would be in the same ballpark. Mostly printing PETG and ABS at the moment... Hmmm... PETG is stringy so lower retractions should probably help.
Thanks for the video! Nice approach off the beaten path to reduce retraction! 😂 I went the opposite way (0$) ending at 0.8mm with direct extruder. www.thingiverse.com/make:621440 Still, big thumbs up to the guys at slice engineering for this piece of art!
Too many steps for the noob to follow. Do this - go watch this- ....I see no discernible difference between the stock end and the more expensive one. I'll stick with Stock. Good video though!
Stop repeating the same false statement everyone seems to like. Marlin does NOT require a bootloader to run. A bootloader is OPTIONAL. It's only needed to update over usb. Leaving it out will save space and allow a few extra features. From the marlin wiki: "Once you have a programmer you can use it to install Marlin directly, but we recommend installing a bootloader first, then following the easy instructions above."
It's fascinating how many prints you go through so you can show us the advantages and disadvantages of various options!
Thanks Chris!
Thanks Ron! Yeah, way too many benchies. LOL
Thanks Chris, really cool that you keep them coming. The community appreciates your deep dives!
as you are talking about speed; i know you have already done a video, but things have matured a lot: Klipper! I manage to do good.15 LH benchies with a .3 nozzle in 1h10m using Klipper on a corexy; i switched back and forth with Marlin/Klipper, and Marlin could not handle the crazy speed of my profile (100mms, 3000accel, 200mms non print move)- even on my 32 bit skr board. From a visual standpoint it is amazing to see the steppers fly and the machine is trying not to fall apart, whilst still producing a decent result.
Maybe a fun challenge to see how far speed can be pushed?
Corexy coming, ludicrous speed!!!
Awesome video Chris! I know I speak for many other Ender3 owners when I say “Thanks for providing these dedicated Ender3 support videos.”
Thank you! I am glad they help others.
Not changing retraction settings after changing from stock to all metal hotend is a common point of failure. Maybe because people are excited to print right away after successfully swapping out the hotend. Glad you mentioned it. 👍😀
Yeah, with stock ender 3 hotend i has around 6-8mm retraction, went down to 1.8mm when i switched to e3d v6
Cool, I am still working on a solid profile for it.
Well done for renaming the original files. Ive seen others not do this. Newbies can end up in a mess if they can't go back to the Original Settings because they overwrote them using the wrong files.. It's Good Practice to do things this way, in general.
Thanks, I try to be good while filming videos. ;)
My recommended upgrades for the ender 3 is the bond tech direct drive extruder with an all metal hotend. I went with the e3d v6 as already had spare parts from my prusa. Honestly after going to direct drive and an all metal hotend I just use my prusa profiles from prusa slicer and results are near identical.
Edit: I use the bontech bmg clone on Amazon.
Not a bad way to go. Thanks
Always excited when a new CR vid gets posted.
Thanks, I do my best.
need to mention that mosquito will allow you to print every material where the stock extruder is limited to around 240c before you start having issue so will be very limited to your material choices. The mosquito is for sure worth the money if you want a great hotend.
Agreed.
Thanks for the great content, Chris! I appreciate you tinkering with your Ender 3 for us.
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great presentation. A natural teaching talent.
Thanks David!
As usual, a great and very thorough video.
Thanks for watching
You sir, are crazy....crazy genius! Great vid as always!
You know it Rickie! :)
Great tutorial Chris. As always so much information in a reasonable amount of time.
Thanks, I like to get to the point.
You should try to review the Zesty Nimble on the Ender 3. Looks very interesting.
I am actually working on this now. :)
Another excellent, thorough, well tested video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks John!
Great video Chris. Boy the Slice Engineering Mosquito hot end is sweet.
Thanks Zimmy. Great parts from good guys
I like your videos - there is certainly space to improve (audio quality would be my first choice) but I definitely enjoy experiments you show and less "look at my prints" more "you can try this and this will help" approach. Your videos tend to save me from some problems although often show something that I've already tried and loose some hair figuring out what to do ;) Keep up the good job!
Thanks! Can you recommend something I can do to improve the audio? I am not sure what to change to make the quality better.
A hotend that costs way more than the whole printer. Lolol. Crazy crazy boy. 🤣
Crazy like a fox! Thanks for watching.
Great video Chris, It was really interesting to see this on a bowden set up over a direct drive. I think you came up with some good results, essentially dropping the retract down from ~4 to ~2.5. The mosquito really does cool better.
Thanks for putting in all that benchy time.
Now I can't really justify a hot end like that for the ender , so I'm off to buy a 90mm hot end cooling fan to see how well I can cool the hot end . 🤣🤣 Retraction be gone!! 🤣🤣
Be gone!!! Go big or go home! Thanks for watching
Ran a microswiss at 4mm/35 for a long time. Then I enabled linear advance and cut it down to 1mm. Used Teaching Tech's retraction tower. Is it strange that I've never printed a benchy? Lol.
You need more bencys. lol, yeah LA would be a good test to add.
Good job Chris always great stuff
Thanks man!
Another great informative video! Was just discussing retraction settings today with a friend and wondering what the impact of reducing that amount was. Now I know!
Thanks! Sweet, glad it came out just in time!
Great video Chris, I don’t think I would waste my lovely mosquito Hot end on the Ender 3, better direct drive v6 that’s the better choice.
Thanks David, probably a better choice. ;)
just break the piece of plastic closest to the programmer pins for the display and the cable fits in perfectly
Ouch! :)
So basically 150$ hotend perform exactly the same as 5$ V6/Swiss clone.. Thanks Chris 👋
Not what he said and I would love to see a shoot out between those to find out.
@@W4TRI_Ronny just by looking at the results
The real reason to get one of these is that it doesnt fail nearly as often. Put hundreds of spools of carbon fiber nylon through it. This hotend is probably more for folks like me who print higher temp materials like polycarbonate. A stock v6 lasted 2 prints at 320c
in all honesty yes. but keep in mind the clone people don't have to pair any engineers that designed it. but in reality. the good thing about this is just convenience + size and lack of the need for a big fancy fan and all that. the thermal efficiency is amazing on this. but as long as you don't want an all metal even the cheap stuff work. but their thermistors usually suck and are inaccurate. for me I got a dirt cheap clone and just bought a genuine thermistor from e3d and a titanium heatbreak from 3d passion and it works great :)
also not to mention the mosquito ones looked far better
Ha, my Mosquito just shipped yesterday for my Ender-3 Pro. Good timing!
It's a great hotend, enjoy.
@@ChrisRiley very much looking forward to it. Also picked up the heating element and thermistor, so I've got the whole package on the way.
Gonna upgrade to a 120v bed at some point in the near future, and it'll be complete (for a time)!
You touched on the E3DV6. Would love to see a "Is this any good and why/why not" video on the cheap hot ends for the Ender 3.
Interesting idea, I'll see what I can find.
Great video Chris! Thanks!
Thank you for watching
Love that Mosquito... That makes it one expensive Ender! 😃 Thanks for the Vid Chris!
It sure does. Thanks for watching
Thank you for that. Very clear.
Thanks for watching!
I wonder how much of a difference the new hotend actually made, my guess is that most of the quality improvement was from switching to the new nozzle itself..... maybe...
Hey Greg, I am not sure, but just getting rid of the PTFE liner has to reduce some drag on the filament.
Great Video! Great Information! Should really help folks out while tuning and planning upgrades for their printers.
Thanks Mike! I hope so, but I kind also hope there are not a ton of ender3 owners putting Mosquitos on them. LOL
Seasoning the heatbreak , retraction length and retraction speed and how they effect the print and the speed of printing is good information even if you use a cheap E3D clone...
Was using M303 PID autotune not an option before updating the firmware?
Stock firmware won't let you save to eeprom. :(
Bought the Mosquito for my Ender 3. Wife left me when she found out that it cost more than the printer. 10/10 would do it again.
Lol, I've had a few close calls myself. Thanks for watching
Using Slice Engineering's cooling fan is terrible. The resonance travels right down to the tip of the nozzle (while performing Z offset, tip was vibrating the glass bed) and that's gonna end up in the print as ringing or such.
Have you had any issues with the vibrations?
That's strange, no, I haven't noticed that. I wonder if they had a bad batch.
Hey chris, great video, sorry I missed your reply on thingiverse. I'm so glad the mount worked for ya. :) Feel free to share it.
Thanks Patrick, your design really helped me out.
Ok, for instance, I installed this Mosquito on Ender3. What the maximum speed will I get? Now I have stable 90mm/s...I had very hot motors after 15h print. Will I get...120-150 with this cinematic (without changing motors, probably not)?
P.S. I realized that you did and why) it is just my question. Thanks for experiment.
You won't get any more speed from the mosquito, the flow rate might be a bit higher but your extruder will have to keep up.
@@ChrisRiley thanks)
Keep the video. Coming out
Thanks, will do.
Thanks Chris. Great presentation for a begginer like me who want to upgrade his original hot end at his Ender 5 Pro.
I have understood a lot of things.
Thumb up !
( If I may ... For God sake, speak not so fast we are not all americans, lol !)
Lol... working on it! Thank you
How hot can you print with this upgrade?When still using the standard heater cartrigde ?
It depends on the printer. On the ender 3, I would guess you should printer over 300c fairly easily.
Possibly more accurate due to a lighter hotend to?
I don't think it was the weight, It looks to be a more consistent layer, more consistent flow rate maybe.
Where is the mount link??
Here you go www.thingiverse.com/thing:3660795
Thanks for the great video. I've been thinking whether or not a Mosquito hotend was worth it or not. Isn't the Slice thermistor just a P100?
It's a nice hotend, I am not really sure what thermistor they use.
What happened to the mount? Link not there although a mention of it remains.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3660795
Greaaaaaaat....I will see if I can find the files and repost it.
If I don’t print polycarbonate is there a real reason to do this? The time savings seems slight.
No, there really is no reason unless you want to do high temp.
Will you test some other pros of this hotend?
High temp video to come, stay tuned!
im installing a mosquito clone on mine soon
Really? You will have to tell us how it looks/works out. I have never seen one up close.
whta mount did you use on the ender 3?
How do you bypass the 260c limit on the ender 3? and can the motherboard handle going hotter?
You would have to flash the firmware and change the max temp in there. I think the board should handle the higher temp.
I'd like to know your thoughts on the piper3d printer or other emt projects such as the mpcnc/lowrider v2 and tall string/emt printer at MRRF this year
I don't know a lot about the piper, I know a few people that have made them. I really do want to build a mpcnc soon.
@@ChrisRiley Hope you film it for the channel.
Do I still do all this with marlin 2.0? I thought it was in there now.
Yes, it's all in there now, it's in the list.
NIce, and clear review
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the great info
Thanks Larry!
Hey Chris, Great video once again! Have you got any idea what the Z difference is between this hotend, and the stock Creality hotend?
I want to put a Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum on my Ender 5+ But I will need to make a adjustment to the bltouch sensor which came preinstalled on that machine.
Thanks! Man, it's been so long ago now I don't even remember how did a difference there was in the two.
@@ChrisRiley I figured it out meanwhile! It's about 9.5mm. Thank you for taking the time for answering though!
I applaud your passion for making videos, but i think in this case you focused on the wrong thing. The hotend has little to do with retraction settings, the hotzone is very small compared to the flex that the bowden tube has when retracting.
Theoretically with a rigid tube (if a rigid flex tube was possible) the retraction would be the same as with a direct drive printer. The way to reduce the distance of the retraction is a shorter, stiffer and better quality bowden tube + great quality couplers
In theory, I agree.
I wouldn't buy this as I would say my standard Ender 3 results are better than this upgrade using Cura 4.0 and Luke Hadfield's profile and Flashforge PLA at 60/210 degrees, however, I would like to see this setup with a dialed in profile
Working with some profile tweaks now.
will the stock bltouch mount still work with this setup?
Yes, it looks like there is still room for it. It should be the same height as stock.
Now do one with the new copperhead !
Great idea!
I bought this hotend, thinking it would be good for pla. heat keeps creaping up, costy mistake
Thank you for your insight!
Why not just replace the stock heater cartridge with a 50 W Mosquito, for $20?
I'm lazy. Thanks for watching.
25mm/s? I print at 75mm/s with no trouble. Why so slow?
I am referring to feed rate of the extruder motor, not print speed. Are you referring to print speed?
@@ChrisRiley ahhhh. Nevermind. Though I think my retraction is quite a bit faster as well.
Do you watch the channel "Bad Obsession Motorsport" ?
I don't but it sounds like something I would enjoy.
you sir, well...you must be a coder, because we are the only ones that "enjoy" this type of "torture".
So, does that mean your print height has decreased?
Yes sir! Only about 20mm
@@ChrisRiley that's not too bad.
put the "Bondtech bmg" to the Mosquito Hotend.
Funny you should say that, I have a config like that coming up.
@@ChrisRiley do not notice, by the way forma a low cost update how about the e3d v6? For Ender 3 thanks
Beware if you are using Linux and installed Arduino IDE from the repository, In Debian based distros (ubuntu, mint) i think everything is ok but for all the others if you just downloaded Arduino IDE you might wanna see if you have a programmer selected in the tools section otherwise you will get the same bootloader error on a machine that already has a bootloader
1yr too late i think :)
Interesting, I have never seen that issue before.
your retraction is really slow. 25mm/sec? man, I run like 120mm/sec
Did you update your feedrate?
@@ChrisRiley not at all. I set up a short but quick retraction after reading about how retraction mostly works to release built up pressure of the filament in the bowden tube. Think like a spring. So a fast retraction is best to release that energy and keep the filament from oozing.
a short fast retraction I have also found helps with seams in the perimeters. The filament doesn't cool too much and the flow of melted plastic doesn't slow down too much either so you get a more consistent flow at the beginning of a perimeter.
@@mase002 Interesting, I will have to test and see what I get.
Price was not mentioned to protect the innocent.
Names were changed too. Thanks for watching
@@ChrisRiley I wonder if a "legit Chinese copy" of microswiss from TriangleLab would be in the same ballpark. Mostly printing PETG and ABS at the moment... Hmmm... PETG is stringy so lower retractions should probably help.
@@yura979 Not sure on that one, but some of those are pretty good clones.
I set my retraction speed to 70 mm/s, I would test Moquito hotend with 1 mm retraction distance and 70 mm/s retraction speed
What extruder are you using?
@@ChrisRiley Titan clone from HE3D
Ah, very nice!
the mosquito costs the same as the whole printer.
You are correct.
I lol’ed
lol, good! 😀
Thanks for the video! Nice approach off the beaten path to reduce retraction! 😂
I went the opposite way (0$) ending at 0.8mm with direct extruder.
www.thingiverse.com/make:621440
Still, big thumbs up to the guys at slice engineering for this piece of art!
Thanks for watching! Very nice! Yep, direct drive is still my fav.
Too many steps for the noob to follow. Do this - go watch this- ....I see no discernible difference between the stock end and the more expensive one. I'll stick with Stock. Good video though!
I was worried about that, there was a lot to it. Thanks for watching anyway.
NOPE too much $$$$ LOL!
👍
Stop repeating the same false statement everyone seems to like.
Marlin does NOT require a bootloader to run. A bootloader is OPTIONAL. It's only needed to update over usb.
Leaving it out will save space and allow a few extra features.
From the marlin wiki:
"Once you have a programmer you can use it to install Marlin directly, but we recommend installing a bootloader first, then following the easy instructions above."
I thought this was pretty obvious, since the printers run fine without a bootloader. No?
try this
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3418944
Nice!
making sense is for losers, ludicrous mods are too fun
LOL