Micro Swiss NG Direct Drive Upgrade (Creality Ender 5)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ม.ค. 2023
- Love the channel? Consider supporting me on Patreon:
www.patreon.com/user?u=806627
ModBot Merch Store is now live! Get yours here:
bit.ly/3qhJ8Yl
Join the official ModBotArmy discord server: / discord
Huge thank you to Micro Swiss for sponsoring this video. In today's video, we go step by step through the process of converting the Ender 5 Pro from its stock extruder\hotend to the NG Direct Drive Extruder. This will allow you to print with a much wider range of materials, including higher temp and flexible. This specific kit will work with the Ender 5, 5 Pro, 5 Plus, and very likely Ender 5-style clones.
Find out more or purchase yours here:
store.micro-swiss.com/collect...
Micro Swiss PDF that includes e-step gcode file:
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/121...
(´∀｀)♡ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases:
Buy now on Amazon: amzn.to/2jQAOgV
Subscribe To My 3d Printing Blog! :
Lets Get Social!
Facebook: / dopesoner930
Twitter: / dopesoner930
Instagram: / modbotarmy
Twitch: / dopesoner930
Great explanations, very clear and helpful, thanks. I was going to ask about the bed level sensor then saw you even mentioned that. A little more on getting it running or a new video on that please.
Bought one of these when they first came out to make my ender 3 able to print ABS reliably and so far it's been extremely easy to use and reliable.
Yay! More Ender 5 content! TY sir
I installed the NG on my Ender-3 V2 four days ago, and on my first TPU-print I didn't tighten the extruder lever enough (I think...) and had a massive clog which I just couldn't figure out for an entire day. After realizing that all I needed was to release the lever arm with one screw, everything cleaned up nicely and has been working perfectly for the last days, printing constantly.
It's such a nice upgrade, except from having to print the CR-touch bracket yourself, which I of course managed to snap during installation, and my old Z-limit switch is in the garbage somewhere. Lucily I've got a resin printer too, so I could print a spare, but it would be nice if it could be included in some way.
Thanks for an excellent video.
I followed it today, and it was always clear what to do.
Currently my printer is printing the benchy :)
Thank you for this. Installed this on my Ender 5 pro and out the box printed better than the stock parks. Got sick of TPU not feeding properly. Easy swap with your video
I bought mine during the Cyber Monday sale and I'm loving it. Pretty much direct drop-in on my longer LK5. Just needed to print a fan adapter for the 5015 radial type, since I didn't have a 4010(?) part cooling fan laying around.
I have been running these (NG) for a while now. They just work really well. I have thrown a pretty wide range of filaments at it.
Your tutorials are amazing thank you :) Used your tutorial for my ender 5 using your ender 3 tutorial.
Thank you for the kind words 😊. Hopefully this will make it easier for Ender 5 installs but I am glad to hear the Ender 3 one was enough to get you what you needed 👍
Anytime :)
Great vid as always! I just installed my Ender 6 version last night and good LAWD is it nice. I wish I had TH-cam skills to put together something like you've made here, but I'm going to document the process loosely with pics & text.
I'm printing the CR Touch bracket I designed now, then I've got a 5015 adapter up next, and my NG is going to be purring!
Thanks again for the discount code you had on your 100k stream! 🧑🔧
print two brackets, thank me later:)
@@slicedpage what do you mean?
@@hamthomas4715 When I bought my NG a few months ago it did not come with a bracket for my cr touch. I had to print one before I removed the old hotend. So I dismantled my ender 3 hotend and attached the new NG. Then I wanted to attach my CR touch and the bracket broke. Now I had a new NG with an unlevel bed and a print that HAD to be printed ASAP for a customer. I cobbled together a bracket to get the job done but I regretted only printing one cr touch bracket. So I always advise new buyers of the NG to print at least two. Now of course micro swiss includes these brackets with the purchase.
@@slicedpage the Ender 6 is "incompatible" with CR/BL Touch according to Creality, so MS doesn't provide a bracket STL for it, let alone ship a premade one. That's why I had to design one, and I'll be posting/sharing that once I'm done tinkering.
Just subscribed! You have great knowledge on these things! Can’t wait to learn more from you
Thank you for the sub 😊. So much more to come.
Advice if you get a clog in your heater block.... Use Q-TIPS to clean the silver piece. Helped out a ton when I accidentally got melted filament all over.
When mine started leaking I ended up having to replace it. The threads were too loose and leaked badly no matter how tight it was.
I have actually been considering getting an NG extruder, so very topical
Hi there, great video. Can you confirm if this Micro Swiss NG Extruder will fit the Sovol SV05? ( fit the extrusion, belt etc.) Thank you
1. Don't forget to print your BLTouch bracket before starting.
2. Replace the stock cable wrap with some 1/4" split like ZGNO.25BK.
Mine came with the bl touch bracket
As a note, the original wiring is covered by that mesh. The mesh can the bunched up, giving a much larger area and the Extruder extension cable can run inside that mesh, the just manipulate the mesh slightly to get a gap (not breaking any threads of the mesh) to bring the cable connector out near the old extruder position. This makes the cabling look a lot neater than just zip tied to the outside of the original wiring mesh.
Creality now do have firmware for their "spider" hot ends that allows higher print temps, but you are better off rolling your own firmware using either Kilipper or Marlin to get a lot of extra features Creality do not enable by default. Plenty of videos on how to do this on TH-cam.
Edit: The stock thermistor that comes with Creality Ender 5, the glass ball type one, is not rated above 290 degrees and the newest versions of Marlin will not compile if you try to set the max temperature to 300 with this thermistor.
Great video but could not find any info on reinstalling the BL Touch. My NG did include the bracket but additional info would have been nice.
excellent video
Thanks!
allready 103k subs. feels like u got 100k yesterday
I have the original MS DD on my E5+, and I like it A LOT, but I think I'm going to hold out for MS to release a dual hotend or 2 to 1 hotend. I know BTT makes a 2 to 1 hotend, but I've heard it's pretty fiddly to get to work right.
If you have a DD that you are happy with, no point upgrading, unless you upgrade for the sake of upgrading. To be honest, although I am looking at these, my Ender 5 Pro prints amazingly well with the bowden tube setup. Because I don't print TPU or other flexible filament, and I don't print high temp filaments, the 260 degree limit on the bowden tube setup is fine for me also. I rarely get stringing, unless I use old filament, and I have never had a jam, which is pretty amazing. Any upgrades would really be just for the sake of upgrading, which can sometimes make things worse.
Bowden tube has it's advantages by keeping the hot end really light, where adding a DD extruder system woudl add a fair bit of weight on the hot end.
Some great info as I’m currently about to upgrade my Ender 5 Plus…..but you forgot to include the resources you mentioned, about upgrading to allow higher temps. That’s a bit disappointing.
There is no link in the description for a PID tune..
Great video as always. Installation is really simple. Just bummed out that the bulk of the kit is 3D printed considering the price for the kit (I'm not in the US so the kit's price is substantially higher).
For the fam shroud I feel like it makes sense. Especially when they were showing possible Revo options. It would also be cool to se a shroud made for a 5015. For the reverse Bowden that could definitely be injection molded or machined though. Is it through a reseller for you then?
@@ModBotArmy Not through a reseller... directly from Micro-Swiss. The exchange rate between USD and CAD makes everything a little less appealing... I agree with you with regards to the 5015 fan shroud... that'd be great (especially since I use 5015 fans for part cooling on all of my printers).
I bought my NG six months ago and it was a fantastic upgrade however, last week the heater block dropped during a print. I put it down to not tightening the grub screw enough and cleaned everything up. When it came to re-inserting the heartbreak it was too wide! The only way to get it back in was to file it down, which seemed silly so I bought a replacement. It dropped too. Has anyone experienced this before? I followed the fitting instructions to the letter.
April 23 Update. When the heater block dropped it was because I used the wrong set/grub screw to hold the heatsync in place. It needed to be a conical screw. My NG is back to normal with the help of micro swiss support who have the patience of Saints.
Does that bracket work with the BL Touch in the Ender 5 Pro as well ?
What allen screwdrivers did you use? Can I please know where to get one or atleast what is it called? I have been looking for that kind for the longest time.
What are your profile settings for the ender 5 pro
Any reason this would be better than my sprite extruder in my 5 S1?
One more question, the stepper motor removed isn’t getting reattached?
Beginner question..off topic: Would You at all be familiar with budget friendly 3D Printers that can Print a Hight of 1000mm ( 100cm or 1 meter) ?
isnt the thermistor lining of the thermistor near the heatblock made of PTFE? printing at hight temps would damage the ptfe lining and utltimatley destroy your thermistor. I ran this setup for about 600 plus hours and then i got a malfunction in the thermistor . another youtuber made a video about exactly this issue.
For real, got one of these from christmas and went from printing 30mm/s on my ender 3 to 162.5mm/s
I definitely wouldn't go up that high. I would recommend like 80mm/s max
@@coltenmeredith8899 yeah I agree with you there as I have fine tuned it a tone. Wouldn't recommend doing this otherwise. It also barely achieves the speeds due to low accel
@Killer Miller I must ask you, is the ender 5 a good printer? I have been looking at them for a week or so. I only have an E3V2 and have been looking to get something a little nicer.
@@coltenmeredith8899 I don't have the ender 5 sorry but what I can tell from reviews and raw specs it seems good.
@@killermiller9915 Oh, what printer did you put it on? An ender 3?
Why they did not release a version with dual part cooling is beyond me, I have the Hero Me 5 with dual part cooling and it made a massive difference to my part quality on ones that needed that extra cooling duct.
They have released the STL for the duct and I printed the 4020 variant. It works very well and definitely superior to stock fan version.
Using a NG with a 5015 on my E3Max via an adaptor, and doing 60m bridges with no problems, and it does have dual fan outlets, so it cools both sides of the print well.
after 3 weeks of perfect prints the little grub screw that holds the heat block to the unit has failed and there is filament spewing everywhere. Any advice?
Can this be attached if you have the exoslide
I've been running the NG for quite a while on my 5+ - the only issue is the filament loading is a pain.. only suggestion I can give is to cut it so it is similar to a pencil - cutting just on one side does not load as easily.
heat the hotend cut the straightened filament at an angle and slip it through the bowden tube onto the rollers. Please don't worry about the arm thingy. Using the menu select motion then extruder and let the NG take the filament.
@@slicedpage Thanks - but I'm not the only one having the same issue. I've done what you say time and time again and it jams more often then not. This is not my first 3D printer or DD system.
@@txwombat7826 I was struggling too so I contacted micro swiss and they gave me those steps to follow. I used to almost take the thing apart to get the filament to go through the extruder. I understand this is not your first rodeo and I apologise if I come across as patronising but I know how frustrating what seems to be the easiest step can be. Let me tell you my setup. Ng of course with about 10cm of Bowden tube secured with the coupling and retention clip. The compression arm screw is about 5mm away from the housing. Then as I mentioned before. When I first did it I was annoyed that I could not have done that before LOL However, I have heard stories of the compression arm roller not lining up with the other gears and that those units had to be returned. I hope you do not have one of them, you might like to check.
@@slicedpage Thanks for the additional details - Filament path / arm is good / aligned.
@@txwombat7826 it is a pickle. Back when I was tearing my hair out trying to load the filament I would twist and push it until I felt it go in but then when I used the extruder to pull it through it would curl up inside where the arm is. I'd remove the housing and unscrew the arm and clear debris away with my trusty can of air and try again. Even the slightest piece of torn filament blocked the hole forcing any filament to go the wrong way. I assume you have done that. That the filament is not uneven. And that there is no chink in the Bowden tube and that you have tried without the tube and that the gears freely move. And that you have tried increasing and decreasing the spring screw on the arm thingy. If so then you may also have contacted Micro Swiss and they have or will tell you what they told me. If you have done all that and yet the filament refuses to go through into the nozzle then maybe the 3D printer gods have decided that this world is not for you and that your destiny lies elsewhere.
Do you have any plans for a ZeroG mercury One build? CoreXY that Ender 5
I just finished my base conversion 2 weeks ago. 😊 check out my other channel “ModBotArmy” we pretty much streamed the entire build.
I much prefer my Sprite to my NG. I know Creality makes a bracket for the Sprite and the Ender 5 now, hopefully they release that bracket soon. I mean both extruders produce almost exactly the same results and you would be super happy with either one, but the creature comforts of the Sprite just make it superior.
What are the creature comforts that the NG doesn't have compared to the sprite?
@@JeanSolagnier The way the whole hotend/extruder is mounted is a big one. It has 3 bolts on the side that are super easy to take on and off, its almost like having something like Wham Bam Mutant. It makes working on the extruder or changing nozzles much easier.
The NG you have to reuse your wiring. Not a huge deal, but the wiring on the Sprite is super clean. 1 cable that is easy to take on and off for everything including the CRTouch. Speaking of the CRTouch it has an ABL bracket built in.
Like every hotend I have seen Creality produce, the heater block is attached to the heatsink. You dont have to worry about the heater block spinning when changing a nozzle.
I upgraded my Ender 5 pro with the NG revo & all good, however I recently installed a bltouch & now my extruder runs in reverse???? Has anyone a solution?
I currently have the micro Swiss direct drive setup for my Ender 5 Plus. It was the first one that has a standard MK hot end and the aluminum plate would there be a great advantage in swapping this out? The only thing I can see is that stepper motor looks to be lighter than my stock one, but I'd have to see a noticeable difference justify the entire cost in swapping it out. What are your thoughts?
IMHO it was money well spent. Faster prints, multiple filaments, so much less hassle and excellent customer support.
I have 2 of the original MS HE/DD and an NG. I don't see a big printing difference between them , but the NG is quite a bit lighter, that might make a difference at higher speeds if using Klipper.
Don’t have an Ender 5, don’t plan on getting a Microswiss, watched the whole video anyways :)
You rock! I spent alot of time getting footage for this in hopes that it would be very clear to follow for anyone that wants to do this mod.
Mine doesn't work. Looks like a bad stepper motor. Coil Short errors. Do you guys QA anything before you assemble it and send it out?
I know you said not to torque the screw that holds in the hot end but no matter how tight i made it the hot end was loose enough to fall out. I totally striped it before realizing it wasnt going in anymore and now i feel like george from "of mice and men"... Anyone have this happen before or know how to fix it? I got another screw but its gonna take more than super glue and a rubber band to get the old one out...
Does anyone know how to add the bed leveler back onto it?
I'm confused. I thought the benifit of a dd was no bowden tube. Wouldn't it still be affected by the hot end temp?
No, it is considered a reverse bowden tube, as he said. The extruder is in the hot end, so the bowden tube only directs the filament to the print head. Some people prefer this way, keeping the filament roll where it was before. I prefer mounting the filament spool on top of the printer, then going down to the print head without a tube. Just personal preference.
@rcflyer2k I'm definitely going to try it. I just thought that short piece of ptfe is a compromise. I'm a bit of a noob so I'm not really sure.
@@paulmyfinger Not a compromise, it is the right way to do it. The long tube makes it a PITA to chnage filaments, and a diriect staright line feeds better, at least in my testing over the last couple yeras of usind Direct Drive extrulders.
Anyone have an issue with the e steps file on the ender 5 plus. Mine keeps going back to the print screen.
Just updated my Ender 5 Pro to Marlin2.0.6HW4.2.2BLTouch and the extruder is going backwards...
Microswiss shipping keeps messing up for me. They sent me a broken NG, then i ordered the ender 5 adapter later and they sent me the linear rail version.
They said they would send the correct part but never did. I ended up just switching to linear rail anyways.
Great products, horrible fulfillment.
That is wild to hear. I have never heard of issues with their shipping before. Glad you made it work, but yeah that’s not good.
@ModBot ya the products are so nice too, but now I worry when ordering from them.
Is the shroud too thin for heat sets? Seems like that could've easily been factored in to keep the self tapping screws out and reducing one point of potential failure (not that it doesn't introduce its own), especially for the price
the shroud is prone to touching the hotend but quite sturdy. You could print a replacement if you had to.
what happened to proper printing? was their an accident?
I hope not?! I have not heard anything. I know he normally works on very ambitious projects so I figured he was deep in his next video. I hope he is okay.
@@ModBotArmy he had the flu apparently. He didn’t say what kind.
Hahaha omg I just installed this last night on my ender lol get out of my head internet lol
They should just include to CR/BL mount, everyone uses those these days
Newer kits all ship with a printed BLtouch mount. As far as crtouch I am not 100% about the physical differences between the two. It may require some slight adjustment.
@@ModBotArmy The wire location on the CRTouch is in a slightly different place than the BL/3D Touch. It is a simple enough thing to make a BLTouch mount work with the CRTouch. Import the stl into something like TinkerCAD or 3D Builder and take a very small cut out of the stl so the wires can clear the mount.
@@ModBotArmy really because I just ordered mine last Monday directly from micro swiss and it didn't have it, I guess I'm sending an email to customer support
@@Q1320 yeah they told me roughly around then that they would all be shipping with them.
@@ModBotArmy yeah I'm going to email them, not because I need it as I printed my own before I bought the NG but dang I want it if it's supposed to be there maybe their print is better than mine lol
This has been out quite a while now and the price is still ridiculous. It's half the price of my entire printer
LOL
@@rcflyer2k I guess maths was not your fav subject at school
Well what's the fucking point of a direct drive if you still need to use a bowden tube? there are other ender printers that don't require a PTFE tube at all and the creality sprite kit is better than this.
The easier way is to buy a 3d printer instead of an Ender...