When removing the two screws on the IAC, (see 6:45 above) use a #2 JIS screwdriver to properly fit the screw. It looks like a Phillips head, but the taper is deeper. I used a Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta P2x100 #2 Cross Point Impact Screwdriver (eBay) after trying a standard Phillips screwdriver. The Vessel is actually an impact screwdriver! - hit the end and it turns the screw a few degrees. Those screws are over an inch long, and narrow threads, and tight! Thanks for your video - did the entire part swap in 45 min. Solved the fluctuating idle problem.
These two screws called "Security Bit Sit" if yo look at the screw in the middle you see small bin that does not allow to use the usual Alan or Phillips screw driver. There is a set of tools you can buy from Auto Zone called " Security Bit Set". The set of of tools is made by "Sure Bilt" and has 33 pieces of attachment that you can attach to your driver. The part number is 82008. It worked great on removing the control module. it was about $11,
@@nabilbalady5602 Don't buy the Harbor Freight 100 bit security bit set for this project. They filled it up with phillips, standard bits, torx, hex, and others, but it doesn't have the 5 point bits.
Those screws are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). They're not the same as US Phillips screws. Your "regular" screwdriver will cam out and strip the heads. Get a set of Vessell brand JIS screwdrivers specifically and it will be a joy to remove these screws that look like phillips. They'll lock into the head positively and you'll be amazed at how the head of the screwdriver remains solid while you torque on it. If you work on Toyotas, any Hondas, Mazda, etc. etc. the JIS screwdriver set will be worth it! Japanese motorcycles too. You'll never go back!
I like the way you explain things, using common man's language. Thanks. I am trying to diagnose the misfire issue in my 02 Accord V6. Already changed all the plugs and ignition coils. I tested the coil connectors and found them working, so just trying to eliminate possibilities. The car doesn't idle bad.
@@bundysgarage I am getting the typical misfiring codes, 1399, 301 to 306 for all 6 cylinders. I tested the coils by using the digital multimeter, and the coils are brand new as well. So, the injectors could be the culprit as you say, but I will have to remove the intake manifold to be sure whether they are clogged, is that correct? I really appreciate your response. Thank you.
Ok so if you are getting misfires codes for all cylinders most likely not always site a bad coil. You stated they are new, I have seen new coils be bad out of the box. So here’s what you do. Start your car and let it idle. Pop your hood and then one by one pull the plug off of each coil. You will notice a drop in engine RPM if the coil is working. When you get to the one where when you pull the coil plug and nothing happens that’s your bad one. Make sense? Just cause you OHMed them out does not mean anything. I have used an ohm meter on hood ones and bad ones and they came back with the same readings. Do that test and let me know.
Had the same problem with my 2002 Honda Accord 3.0 vtec v6. I did everything you did, but the cure to solve it was flushing the engine coolant! All the years of just draining and filling left some engine particles in all the coolant traveling all around the engine, I guess. I flushed the system 6 times to get clear water coming out. Oh, flush the heater core, too.
I attempted to do the same with my 2004 Accord LX Coupe. The plastic connector that you described around 10:15 comes already connected with the new part. However, I could not get my IAC off. I went ahead and cleaned the Trottle body, and replaced the TPS. Worked great and the car passed inspection today. I tried the linemans pliers and they didn't work. I could not get a grip on he screws as you did. I used PB Blaster penetrating oil. No go.
I cleaned mine. Now fixed. At 9:35 I used a torx bit for 2 screws. That black part was full of crap. Recommend cleaning in there. Has a thing that rotates inside and was stuck cause of crap.used a pick to scrape it out. I have a 2002 Accord V6. Video maybe older engine.right part though.
Nice explanation. I think it's a good idea to fork over the $100ish and replace a part like that anyway, can't be very good even if cleaned. Looks like it would be tough to use an old school hammer impact driver on that one to get the screws loose the way it sits, unless completely removing it. Maybe a flame and cold water spray would work. I use anti-seize on just about all nuts, screws, or bolts and especially tire nuts. Has saved me a great deal of time and headaches.
At first the small valve seemed to move freely, but when i removed the black "magnet whatever" (using plyers, what a pain) housing and turned it by hand, it sometimes got ever so slightly stuck. Seemed like some sand or perhaps metal shavings had slightly damaged the valve itself. There are very small tolerances, so any irregularities can cause rubbing, i guess? I used a drill to spin the hell out of it and to get whatever was causing the hickup to wear itself out. Heaps of WD40 was also involved. Runs great now!
My idle control valve went bad again. This time actuator part. If I tap on the electronic part while engine surging, runs smooth for a little bit. Good news, new valve sold on Amazon for only $25.
IS THERE A WAY TO ADJUST THE IDLE I INSTALLED A NEW IACV BECAUSE THE IDLE WAS WAY TOO HIGH,.IT WORKED WELL BUT ID LIKE TO LOWER IT A BIT MORE CAN IT BE ADJUSTED LOWER ? ...HOW?
This guy Bundy is awesome I sent him a email and he responded with the answers that I needed to get my car fixed in time to save my job... you guys should definitely subscribe to this channel and check out all the useful information that he has... very friendly guy....n knowledgeable too... I will definitely call him or email him for any future questions... and if you guys are in the ie hit him up ....very grateful for the advice...thanks
6:39 is where JIS type screws are removed... they are NOT USA Phillips heads... they are Japan JIS type for Toyota or Honda engines .... get a pair of those heads for about $8 delivered and use them.... available in eBay #2 screw bits! A dab of Kroil on the base of the 2 screws will release them much faster... 10-15 minutes before you take them off. The JIS bit fits exactly and does not ruin the screw heads...
To remove screws use a cordless impact driver with a new quality correct size bit and bump it tight before trying to loosen so if it strips screw head any it will not affect turning it out. Also kroil is the best penetrating oil for aluminum\steel corrosion I've found.
'correct' means a JIS type bit ... #2 size .... they are NOT Phillips USA screw heads.... Toyota and Honda use JIS standard type screws in some parts...
Do u know if the idle air control could be damage if someone ran their car without enough coolant or specifically the water pump has a major leak and it was driven for two days lets say 10-20 miles?
I bought the one from someone the next day after they ran it hot, having to do a lot of throttle work, sensitive motor. Runs greats just erratic. Overall I like the 3.0
Mine was so filthy I had to remove the solenoid and manually clean every little piece, putting the floating shutter back together properly was a challenge but works like new now. The screws were stripping out so I turned them out very slowly with a good vise grip.
What if my problem is the idle keeps hunting up and down regardless of how warm or cold the coolant gets. Would that mean that the throttle body is stuck open?
Ok well my 2001 honda accord vtech 3.0 V6 is idle surging. I replaced the IACV, and yet it still idle surges, I don't have any vaccine leaks so what's wrong with it then?? While in park and in idle mode it revs it self up and down
I have a 2000 Honda accord 3.0 v6 and it threw a code for the IACV today code p0505. Just wanted to inform you that the computer in a 01 should throw a code for the IACV.
Would a bad iacv cause the engine to shut off if you keep reviving the gas I’m having this problem the car runs fine and the idle is low but once I rev the gas while it’s in part it puts then cuts off.
Those are JIS screws. The JIS screwdrivers looks like a Phillps except the tip is slightly different. They allow the screws to be easily removed without striping them out. Those might need a JIS #2 or #3. I think I used a TP15 to get those funny looking screws out of the black part.
I’m currently making a short video of a complete iacv restore for this car and the steps I’d add after what you’ve done is 1) remove bolts holding black solenoid on iacv by making flat head with dremel/hacksaw/file. Or try vise grips 2) attach iacv to a drill 3) fill bowls with brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner 4) go to town with drill after doing this the bearing was still a LITTLE rough feeling so I added some clipper oil which worked great but I can’t say whether that will hurt anything cause I haven’t put it in the car yet I’m assuming it’s non conducive cause you can use it in hair clippers and I used Qtips to clean as much as I can out.. check my channel for update
Those are JIS screws. The JIS screwdrivers look like Phillps except the tip is slightly different. They allow the screws to be easily removed without striping them out. Those might need a JIS #2 or #3.
Canada uses Robertson.If you get lucky,a Robertson might fit in your Philips.I agree,Philips not much better than slot.Nothing worse than a dirty slot.
I have a honda accord 2000 .. My car misfires when its warm .. Check engine turns on for a couple days then shuts off .. Ima try to clean it hopefully it works .. Been stressing on this honda man
I can't find the iac location on my 03 v6 accord it's not below the throttle body. Or if it is it's really small bit it doesn't have any ports, just 2 holes for the coolant
Idle Issue: 1) check for vacuum leaks 2) purge cooling system of air 3) check TPS for dropouts .. if replacing, voltage setting at idle is .5V 4) exhaust valves can get too tight over time .. adjust all exhaust valves out to .013” 5) Check EGR valve and passages for clogs
My car does something similar. But It starts slow at around 200rpms before it goes up to 700rpm and idles pretty rough. Guess I'll try this. I hope It helps. I have a 2003 Honda Accord with the 3.0
@BundysGarage I have a 2000 Accord V6 with the ignition coil version of the J30A1. It constantly throws the P0505 and misfire codes usually accompany that code. The IACV has been replaced twice this year with aftermarket Idle Air Control Valves from a local parts store chain. I replaced multiple parts, for example, the spark plugs with NGK Laser Iridium models, a new Denso radiator, Honda coolant. I swapped out a few non-Hitachi ignition coils for used o.e.m. Honda Hitachi ignition coils. That kept the codes from coming back for over 100+ miles but I had a feeling there was still an issue. Then the code P0505 came back. The car after running warm will start and misfire terribly and stall out or almost stall out. Can faulty ignition coils cause a P0505 code ?
Given how much you've spent, couldn't you just take it to the dealer to get it diagnosed, pay the fee for diagnosis, and then replace the parts yourself?
To remove the screws especially Phillip heads, you should spray wd40 and let it penetrate. Tap the butt of the screwdriver and try turning. Also the star screws or hex screws, the same approach should be applied for removal of the sensor.
i have a 99 honda accord v6 J30A1 motor and the 2 main vacuum lines from under the intake manifold where not connected to the F iac ( which mine has but no hoses connected to it ) how does one connect the 2 hoses from the intake area and where does the one from the " snorkel " go????? the pictograph from under the hood shows 2 lines in to 4 hose pins? 2 from under the manifold and on from top of the throttle body and one from the snorkel tube into this F iac valve ? am i needing a T hose connector or something ? please help lol html1-f.scribdassets.com/5r2pqbzveo4lfagf/images/11-a33441caea.jpg
@@bundysgarage due to this my idle sits around 1500Rpm both hoses from the left ( intake manifold ) are just laying and pulling a ton of vacuum and im missing both the hoses on the right that connect to the throttle body and intake tube what is this part?
You must be installing them wrong then. I don’t care, don’t use anti-seize, then call a mechanic when you can’t get it out or strip the threads trying to remove it.
I have 98 4 cyl. The rpm go to 1500 3000 so I change the iac and do not fixe, I change the map are the same, what is your recommendation? the scanner say me is the iac, I do not know what tho do
@@bundysgarage thanks, mine surges at idle even when engine is cold...revs from 1k up to about 2200rpms up and down surging..literally just started out of the blue. Is it possible it could be a map sensor? Had a 95 mazda that did this and after cleaning map sensor it fixed it. Mine is the 3.0v6 also
I made a video detailing how I cleaned my iac valve after failing my first attempt.. here’s the link th-cam.com/video/2g-pelrQSzk/w-d-xo.html It’s more of a detailed explanation than a full how to but it’s good information.. check it out
When removing the two screws on the IAC, (see 6:45 above) use a #2 JIS screwdriver to properly fit the screw. It looks like a Phillips head, but the taper is deeper. I used a Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta P2x100 #2 Cross Point Impact Screwdriver (eBay) after trying a standard Phillips screwdriver. The Vessel is actually an impact screwdriver! - hit the end and it turns the screw a few degrees. Those screws are over an inch long, and narrow threads, and tight! Thanks for your video - did the entire part swap in 45 min. Solved the fluctuating idle problem.
These two screws called "Security Bit Sit" if yo look at the screw in the middle you see small bin that does not allow to use the usual Alan or Phillips screw driver. There is a set of tools you can buy from Auto Zone called " Security Bit Set". The set of of tools is made by "Sure Bilt" and has 33 pieces of attachment that you can attach to your driver. The part number is 82008. It worked great on removing the control module. it was about $11,
@@nabilbalady5602 Don't buy the Harbor Freight 100 bit security bit set for this project. They filled it up with phillips, standard bits, torx, hex, and others, but it doesn't have the 5 point bits.
I like the way to talk and show everything in details step by step... Thank you.
Those screws are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). They're not the same as US Phillips screws. Your "regular" screwdriver will cam out and strip the heads. Get a set of Vessell brand JIS screwdrivers specifically and it will be a joy to remove these screws that look like phillips. They'll lock into the head positively and you'll be amazed at how the head of the screwdriver remains solid while you torque on it. If you work on Toyotas, any Hondas, Mazda, etc. etc. the JIS screwdriver set will be worth it! Japanese motorcycles too. You'll never go back!
Yes, I took The IAC apart and cleaned it. Car runs great now.
how bad was it before you fixed it
I like the way you explain things, using common man's language. Thanks. I am trying to diagnose the misfire issue in my 02 Accord V6. Already changed all the plugs and ignition coils. I tested the coil connectors and found them working, so just trying to eliminate possibilities. The car doesn't idle bad.
What codes are you getting? How do you know the coils are good? Could be your fuel injector(s).
@@bundysgarage I am getting the typical misfiring codes, 1399, 301 to 306 for all 6 cylinders. I tested the coils by using the digital multimeter, and the coils are brand new as well. So, the injectors could be the culprit as you say, but I will have to remove the intake manifold to be sure whether they are clogged, is that correct? I really appreciate your response. Thank you.
Ok so if you are getting misfires codes for all cylinders most likely not always site a bad coil. You stated they are new, I have seen new coils be bad out of the box. So here’s what you do. Start your car and let it idle. Pop your hood and then one by one pull the plug off of each coil. You will notice a drop in engine RPM if the coil is working. When you get to the one where when you pull the coil plug and nothing happens that’s your bad one. Make sense? Just cause you OHMed them out does not mean anything. I have used an ohm meter on hood ones and bad ones and they came back with the same readings. Do that test and let me know.
@@bundysgarage Thank you sir. That's the first test I did, and I did notice a slight drop in RPM, although the sound is not very noticeable.
And they all checked hood? How are your spark plugs?
Had the same problem with my 2002 Honda Accord 3.0 vtec v6. I did everything you did, but the cure to solve it was flushing the engine coolant! All the years of just draining and filling left some engine particles in all the coolant traveling all around the engine, I guess. I flushed the system 6 times to get clear water coming out. Oh, flush the heater core, too.
I attempted to do the same with my 2004 Accord LX Coupe. The plastic connector that you described around 10:15 comes already connected with the new part. However, I could not get my IAC off. I went ahead and cleaned the Trottle body, and replaced the TPS. Worked great and the car passed inspection today. I tried the linemans pliers and they didn't work. I could not get a grip on he screws as you did. I used PB Blaster penetrating oil. No go.
You need these to get those screws out:
th-cam.com/video/vrSHvXJuznE/w-d-xo.html
I cleaned mine. Now fixed. At 9:35 I used a torx bit for 2 screws. That black part was full of crap. Recommend cleaning in there. Has a thing that rotates inside and was stuck cause of crap.used a pick to scrape it out. I have a 2002 Accord V6. Video maybe older engine.right part though.
Nice explanation. I think it's a good idea to fork over the $100ish and replace a part like that anyway, can't be very good even if cleaned. Looks like it would be tough to use an old school hammer impact driver on that one to get the screws loose the way it sits, unless completely removing it. Maybe a flame and cold water spray would work. I use anti-seize on just about all nuts, screws, or bolts and especially tire nuts. Has saved me a great deal of time and headaches.
At first the small valve seemed to move freely, but when i removed the black "magnet whatever" (using plyers, what a pain) housing and turned it by hand, it sometimes got ever so slightly stuck.
Seemed like some sand or perhaps metal shavings had slightly damaged the valve itself. There are very small tolerances, so any irregularities can cause rubbing, i guess?
I used a drill to spin the hell out of it and to get whatever was causing the hickup to wear itself out. Heaps of WD40 was also involved. Runs great now!
Question. I am having thee stumbling issues. But they go away as soon as the TCS and CEL come on ! Runs like a dream then! Crazy. What is that?
What codes are in the car?
@@bundysgarage I am getting an o2 sensor code
It will not accelerate smoothly either. Literally bucks like a bronco at the rodeo. The 2 lights come on. No issues. Smooth as silk
My idle control valve went bad again. This time actuator part. If I tap on the electronic part while engine surging, runs smooth for a little bit. Good news, new valve sold on Amazon for only $25.
many review say after install $25 still not work
IS THERE A WAY TO ADJUST THE IDLE
I INSTALLED A NEW IACV BECAUSE THE IDLE WAS WAY TOO HIGH,.IT WORKED WELL BUT ID LIKE TO LOWER IT A BIT MORE
CAN IT BE ADJUSTED LOWER ? ...HOW?
I don’t think it can be adjusted manually. You might have to go into the computer with a scan tool and adjust it there.
This guy Bundy is awesome I sent him a email and he responded with the answers that I needed to get my car fixed in time to save my job... you guys should definitely subscribe to this channel and check out all the useful information that he has... very friendly guy....n knowledgeable too... I will definitely call him or email him for any future questions... and if you guys are in the ie hit him up ....very grateful for the advice...thanks
Thank you very much for making this informative video.
6:39 is where JIS type screws are removed... they are NOT USA Phillips heads... they are Japan JIS type for Toyota or Honda engines .... get a pair of those heads for about $8 delivered and use them.... available in eBay #2 screw bits! A dab of Kroil on the base of the 2 screws will release them much faster... 10-15 minutes before you take them off. The JIS bit fits exactly and does not ruin the screw heads...
Post a link to Amazon plz
To remove screws use a cordless impact driver with a new quality correct size bit and bump it tight before trying to loosen so if it strips screw head any it will not affect turning it out. Also kroil is the best penetrating oil for aluminum\steel corrosion I've found.
'correct' means a JIS type bit ... #2 size .... they are NOT Phillips USA screw heads.... Toyota and Honda use JIS standard type screws in some parts...
Did it work after the new one
Please update the other vehicles you definitely have alot more to offer thanks!!!!!!!
Update what vehicles? What are you talking about?
Im here because of the Mdx 01!!!
My 1999 Accord XE had codes. That is how I knew what the problem really was...
Same for 2003 Odyssey, has a code.
Do u know if the idle air control could be damage if someone ran their car without enough coolant or specifically the water pump has a major leak and it was driven for two days lets say 10-20 miles?
I bought the one from someone the next day after they ran it hot, having to do a lot of throttle work, sensitive motor. Runs greats just erratic. Overall I like the 3.0
EGR valve and passage cleaning might help. It did on mine.
EGR...That was my exact thought when I heard about the rough idle. IAC causes a surge during idle. Good, well made detailed video though.
Mine was so filthy I had to remove the solenoid and manually clean every little piece, putting the floating shutter back together properly was a challenge but works like new now. The screws were stripping out so I turned them out very slowly with a good vise grip.
How many miles was on it?
@@jims2507 360,000kms
What if my problem is the idle keeps hunting up and down regardless of how warm or cold the coolant gets. Would that mean that the throttle body is stuck open?
Most likely you have a vacuum leak
whats the torque power I should apply for those 2x 12mm bolts/nuts? Thank you!
Wud this work for 06 3.0v
It looks like your engine has abs in the beginning 😂
my 2002 shows a code for it. I think the Free All may have helped because I couldn't get them with pliers, I used an impact screw driver.
Ok well my 2001 honda accord vtech 3.0 V6 is idle surging. I replaced the IACV, and yet it still idle surges, I don't have any vaccine leaks so what's wrong with it then?? While in park and in idle mode it revs it self up and down
Do you have any codes showing up?
@@bundysgarage the only thing is the idle control valve and and just an evap leak that pops up but I replaced that valve. Maybe it was a faulty one??
@@officialyungtwizted3858 did you find out what it is
It was the idle control valve. I went to the junkyard and got one and now it runs and idles super calm and quiet
Did you originally replace with a used piece.. or did you buy new and it failed so you got used from junkyard..
I have a 2000 Honda accord 3.0 v6 and it threw a code for the IACV today code p0505. Just wanted to inform you that the computer in a 01 should throw a code for the IACV.
Would a bad iacv cause the engine to shut off if you keep reviving the gas I’m having this problem the car runs fine and the idle is low but once I rev the gas while it’s in part it puts then cuts off.
Could be or a bad / failing fuel pump
@@bundysgarage thanks im going to start with the ivac I was thinking the fuel pump as well
Can this cause a p1106 code?
do i need to replace the gasket? mine is dirty but i dont feel like paying 12$ sheesh. can i make one from cardboard
If it’s not ripped or torn, you can use it again.
Cardboard 😆
I hate those screws I just put the torch to em to keep from struggling! A number 3 Philips helps if you have about strip em!
Use anti seize on spark plug threads?
Those are JIS screws. The JIS screwdrivers looks like a Phillps except the tip is slightly different. They allow the screws to be easily removed without striping them out. Those might need a JIS #2 or #3. I think I used a TP15 to get those funny looking screws out of the black part.
My 2000 Honda Accord uses 5 point pentalobe screw heads on Electrical part. Torx has 6 point heads.
I’m currently making a short video of a complete iacv restore for this car and the steps I’d add after what you’ve done is
1) remove bolts holding black solenoid on iacv by making flat head with dremel/hacksaw/file. Or try vise grips
2) attach iacv to a drill
3) fill bowls with brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner
4) go to town with drill
after doing this the bearing was still a LITTLE rough feeling so I added some clipper oil which worked great but I can’t say whether that will hurt anything cause I haven’t put it in the car yet I’m assuming it’s non conducive cause you can use it in hair clippers and I used Qtips to clean as much as I can out.. check my channel for update
Once you make the video put a link in the comments!
Will do..
I don't seem to find a video for the 8th generation on youtube
Did replacing it work? I had a similar problem..cleared it up by double treating with fuel injector cleaner in gas tank. Also no code..2001 odyssey
I have not had time to replace it yet but I think it's shot
Phillips screws should be banned.
Those are JIS screws. The JIS screwdrivers look like Phillps except the tip is slightly different. They allow the screws to be easily removed without striping them out. Those might need a JIS #2 or #3.
Notched mine with a hack saw then used an impact driver
I think torx screws should be outlawed, except where security is a priority.
Canada uses Robertson.If you get lucky,a Robertson might fit in your Philips.I agree,Philips not much better than slot.Nothing worse than a dirty slot.
I have a honda accord 2000 .. My car misfires when its warm .. Check engine turns on for a couple days then shuts off .. Ima try to clean it hopefully it works .. Been stressing on this honda man
Damn Good 👍
IACV Gasket: Mahle B32047 or Honda 16456-P8A-A01
Got po5o5 idle control valve , replaced , purged coolant, erased code & now can’t lower idle from 2k rpms. How can I lower rpms?
Sounds like possibly the tps. Did you clean that and the throttle body as well?
I can't find the iac location on my 03 v6 accord it's not below the throttle body. Or if it is it's really small bit it doesn't have any ports, just 2 holes for the coolant
Yep that’s it. Where the 2 ports for coolant are.
Thinks u
Idle Issue:
1) check for vacuum leaks
2) purge cooling system of air
3) check TPS for dropouts .. if replacing, voltage setting at idle is .5V
4) exhaust valves can get too tight over time .. adjust all exhaust valves out to .013”
5) Check EGR valve and passages for clogs
mine is a Fiac valve does the F matter ? and the car i bought did NOT come with any of the hoses connected on it on it lol
Where are you getting the F from? I didn’t get your email yet.
My car does something similar. But It starts slow at around 200rpms before it goes up to 700rpm and idles pretty rough. Guess I'll try this. I hope It helps. I have a 2003 Honda Accord with the 3.0
Does the computer have any codes?
@@bundysgarage unfortunately It doesn't. If It did It would have have made It so much easier.
@BundysGarage I have a 2000 Accord V6 with the ignition coil version of the J30A1. It constantly throws the P0505 and misfire codes usually accompany that code. The IACV has been replaced twice this year with aftermarket Idle Air Control Valves from a local parts store chain. I replaced multiple parts, for example, the spark plugs with NGK Laser Iridium models, a new Denso radiator, Honda coolant. I swapped out a few non-Hitachi ignition coils for used o.e.m. Honda Hitachi ignition coils. That kept the codes from coming back for over 100+ miles but I had a feeling there was still an issue. Then the code P0505 came back. The car after running warm will start and misfire terribly and stall out or almost stall out. Can faulty ignition coils cause a P0505 code ?
Given how much you've spent, couldn't you just take it to the dealer to get it diagnosed, pay the fee for diagnosis, and then replace the parts yourself?
William Levy your car is heat soaking I had the same issue with my accord when I had it
Tell me all the codes the car is telling you.
Not for 3.2L?
To remove the screws especially Phillip heads, you should spray wd40 and let it penetrate. Tap the butt of the screwdriver and try turning. Also the star screws or hex screws, the same approach should be applied for removal of the sensor.
Clogged ERG passages, Throttle body needs cleaning or distributor.
i have a 99 honda accord v6 J30A1 motor and the 2 main vacuum lines from under the intake manifold where not connected to the F iac ( which mine has but no hoses connected to it ) how does one connect the 2 hoses from the intake area and where does the one from the " snorkel " go????? the pictograph from under the hood shows 2 lines in to 4 hose pins? 2 from under the manifold and on from top of the throttle body and one from the snorkel tube into this F iac valve ? am i needing a T hose connector or something ? please help lol html1-f.scribdassets.com/5r2pqbzveo4lfagf/images/11-a33441caea.jpg
Im working on a 99 Accord V6 right now. Email me some clear, well lit pictures of the hoses you are talking about. Bundysgarage at gmail dot com
@@bundysgarage email sent about the missing part and its not the part that goes to the iac valve that connected to the actual throttle body?
@@bundysgarage due to this my idle sits around 1500Rpm both hoses from the left ( intake manifold ) are just laying and pulling a ton of vacuum and im missing both the hoses on the right that connect to the throttle body and intake tube what is this part?
@@bundysgarage i sent photos and pics of pictogram of the part I DON'T HAVE what is this part called if not Fiac ? How do i buy a new one?
Those screw heads are called torque bits.
7:52 lol ....if breaks free I'll be amazed!
Every place in Calgary doesn't have the IAC gasket.
Check out www.hondapartsunlimited.com
Cheers :)
obd ll came out in 1986.
OBD II came out in 1996
AntiSeize on spark plugs? Good way to blow a plug and strip out the head!
You must be installing them wrong then. I don’t care, don’t use anti-seize, then call a mechanic when you can’t get it out or strip the threads trying to remove it.
@@bundysgarage 🤣😂🤣
I know this comment is old but you gotta use anti seize on spark plugs.. if you over torque a spark plug with no anti seize your ******
RIGHT! Kids nowadays!
Hope this is the hesitation culprit on my 02' but if it ain't broke, I'll fix that 😂
I have 98 4 cyl. The rpm go to 1500 3000 so I change the iac and do not fixe, I change the map are the same, what is your recommendation? the scanner say me is the iac, I do not know what tho do
Alejandro Perez where u able to find the problem?
victor hernandez if brother you will not believe it, change all that, iac, map, followed the same, change the pcv valve and ready, I hope I helped you
Looks like a real pain in the ass. Antiseize is good.
That screw on the iac you wanted to know size to is a 7mm
Thx
"so far im not amazed hahaha
That’s not a 2003 Honda Accord V6
free all did not do the job. The pliers did.
Why do you show everything except for the moment you actually broke the screw free...ugh.
I had to use a pair of pliers to get it free. Lock the pliers onto the sides of the screw and break it loose that way.
@@bundysgarage thanks, mine surges at idle even when engine is cold...revs from 1k up to about 2200rpms up and down surging..literally just started out of the blue. Is it possible it could be a map sensor? Had a 95 mazda that did this and after cleaning map sensor it fixed it. Mine is the 3.0v6 also
Wish this showed where the hose to the throttle body and iac ran to. Bought a honda and it's a full bypassed mess🤣
I made a video detailing how I cleaned my iac valve after failing my first attempt.. here’s the link
th-cam.com/video/2g-pelrQSzk/w-d-xo.html
It’s more of a detailed explanation than a full how to but it’s good information.. check it out
What a waste of time watched entire video only to find out that it didn’t fix the problem SMH
Help! I did this cleaning now my 4 cyl accord is no crank no start! Any ideas?
Are you sure you didn’t disconnect any connections by accident?
@@bundysgarage I forgot a connector to the throttle body but reconnected it and same condition. Kinda of lost now.