GM 1 wire 100 amp alternator UPGRADE and INFO diy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
- all my videos are in 1080p.. so check that out
just an idea on how to UPGRADE your charging system to a higher output alternator
car is a 70 chevelle with a 53 amp (already converted) internally regulated 3 wire alternator - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Greenlee crimper (8g to 1/0) Greenlee K05-1GL
Qqf
Chris, The “SI” series of alternators use a stator connected in a “Y” configuration as all the legs meet. This is the F or field terminal. It is ground when off but B+ when running. If the dash has a charge bulb is a peanut bulb or 194. It is connected to the key-on ignition. Checks the bulb, starts and alternator works, you have 12volts on both sides of this bulb. This light goes out. The regulator controls negative to the rotor, the diode trio supplied 12v to the regulator. The bulb limits current to 0.25 amps or about 460 ohms when on.
The “CS is Case Size where SI means System Integrated. The CS uses a stator with a Delta wiring configuration and has up to 32 voltage regulator part numbers. The 4 terminals are marked; S=sense, F=field, L= lamp and P=tach signal or used for remote sensing of battery temp thru a PTC thermistor when the batteries under the rear seat.
Any alternator that comes on with one wire at the regulator has a stator that has be magnetized. Like a coil of wire wrapped around a nail, pass amperage or current the nail becomes magnetic even after the battery is disconnected.
The nail or stator disconnected from a battery or sitting on the engine in storage over time loses the magnetic field. It has to be jumped quickly to B+ to re-start.
If a charge light comes on during bulb-run-check thru the Ignition it has a path to ground either a wire to “L” on the alternator or a gauge or other circuit under the dash. The voltage comparator is a simple cheap circuit device set to 12.8 volts. If voltage goes higher it turns the bulb off by removing ground. It cost about $3 to build.
Hope this helps.
Loosing that "gen light" is important to understand. Thanks for the detailed video.
Being a union electrician, and also improving my 68 Torino charging system I highly highly highly agree with your pre planning and mentioning the importance of using (legit) heavy duty crimp terminals. Nice work man.
Andrew Burkett yes
Excellent video - Great planning - Using your ideas to convert my 1964 Studebaker Commander - Thanks!
Thanks Chris. You gave me insights on a 1 wire alternator and an understanding on how everything works.
Thanks
This is a quick and clean video with only the necessary information. I like that he is not trying to be a rock star with music and time-wasting fooling around. I wish he were my neighbor.
One small observation is that he did a nice job of putting his alternator ground connection on the belt adjusting screw. My new alternator's directions actually pointed out a provided place on the backside to screw in a bolt for mounting my grounding wire directly to the alternator case. It ohms out as a good connection.
You answered some questions. I am an aut electrical and electronic specialist. I have forgotten as much as I remember. I was injured and left the industry 8 years ago. 25 years ago I put a 1 wire on my 55 chevy. A fellow that rebuilds them told me how to do it and wire it in place of my generator. Now years later I am totally building my own wiring system and you gave me some good refresher points as I am planning my install of this one wire again. Thank you for your time and for sharing.We are never to old to learn or relearn. your engine sounds just like mine. makes my heart happy.
you have to bypass your external voltage regulator... i have an EASY CONVERSION video you might want to check out.. ask me any questions... im all about helping people get their projects on the road
Props to you Chris. I have '73 Nova with a sbc 350 that I'm upgrading as funds allow. I watched your video on wiring electric fans and once I get to upgrading to the GM 100 amp alt I'll install some electric fans. Your diagrams and explanations are clear and easy to understand. Thanks.
Chris I really appreciate your videos. I’ve learned so much and just wanted to say thank you brother. Im a big fan.
Great video with all the detail and wiring diagrams !
Dude, awesome instruction and explanation.
Great video mate. At about 7mins down you mentioned someone had the GEN light fitted with the 1-Wire ALT. I do that all the time and never ever had any problems. I use a 1-Wire GM 100A ALT with complete new AAW universal wiring harness for custom jobs. I connect the brown exciter wire to the existing GEN bulb, other option I connect the brown exciter wire to a separate bulb on the dash. It works great and have worked for years. Customers feel safer they actually see the GEN light go off upon starting, like the average car on the street. Just thought I share this info.
i still havent figured out the stop engine light im bringing it to a guy that specializes in old school buicks ill let you know in detail ...great video chris the one before this really helped my alternator does not squeak any longer
Chris this is the best video on how to wire a one wire alternator on all of youTube. Very impressed with your knowledge and quality of work. Thank you. I subscribed.
Wow that a great video thanks for the real in depth information I’m currently working on going to a 1 wire alternator installed it and all but wisest working like it should I see your example and know have a real good idea what steps to take next I’ll probably make a video and refer this video for more information... thanks again a lot
Subscribed! Awesome video, and I plan to watch the rest. Good job bro and great step by step advice.
The best on youtube
Hi Chris, fyi connection 1 is the excite via the "Gen" light, it goes out due to positive power coming back from the alternator when it starts charging, thus positive on both sides, the number 2 is the sensing line, direct to the battery was the original intentions of Remy-Delco, back in the day, auto-electrical technician and engineer 1971-2006, only help out friends in the motor trade now as cars have become computers with wheels! The 2 should be completely separate, bring back the old stuff, and you're right a 1 wire can't have a gen light unless an 11v test module is fitted, somebody fitted it and didn't tell him, stay safe
Another great clip, thanks Chris
Best video on 1 wire so far.
You did a excellent job on that Chris
fantastic video keep the great work going
Good job dude. I'm old school mech myself. Chevelle sounds really good man.
Total Guru , this dude . Many thanks .
I LOVE your videos!!! They are so instructive and get straight to it, in a down to earth fashion with simple but comprehensive visual aids. THANK YOU.
One of the best most detailed videos I've come across. Good on you mate.
Just to share, I've been using GM 1-Wire 100A Alternators for all my customers projects using AAW wiring harnesses which already comes with Red/Brown wire connector ready for plugging into these GM 1-wire alt where the Brown wire goes to the GEN light in the dash. So far all the GM 1-wire Alt that I've purchased always had the 2-terminal point to be used if needed. So for those cars without any GEN light on the dash, I'll add on one on the dash panel somewhere.
Love your channel this help fix my alternator issues 🙏
Great Video... I just watched this and I'm subscribing because I can understand exactly what your doing Chris, subscribing as well. I've got a BBC in a '69 Camaro and I'm in the middle of fabbing a dual fan setup, that's going in with a Vintage Air setup and a Serpentine belt setup. Gonna start roughing out some parts list since I'm confined to the house I may as well watch your various Relay videos and more, then start ordering some parts.
buy a 140 amp if you can.. the 100 might not be enough.. i know all the wiring in those cars so ask me anything.. i want to see some videos.. PLEASE
thanks for there video , it helped an old guy remember
one thing i missed or didn't see was how to mane the amp gauge to work
I have how to wire ammeter video
Did mine today! Looks much better and work so much better, no run on problems! Thank you for your hard work putting this information on here!
Really good details....easy to understand...great job...
Very useful video, thanks
Hey Chris, this is Dan Baldwin. I had to laugh when I found this. What's funny is my projects seem to be 1-2 videos behind you, seems we are heading down the same path...... Good job first off I'm confused on my situation. Let me sum up 1st. I left something on in my car connected to the cigarette lighter and wanted to take it for a ride the other day and put a slow trickle charge on it the night before. (not sure what the voltage was) the next morning it started with my fingers xed. I started up the rd on a 3 mile trip and noticed a rough engine run like a plug wire off or so. When I got to the gas station and put it in park, the engine cut out. got a jump 2x just to get home. Here is what I checked. Put a volt meter on battery and it was around 11 volts. left the charger on over nite and that got it to almost 12.3 volts. I changed the regulator next day and its the same. it's a 4 pole connector. I thought this was supposed to be around 13.5. any idea where to look. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Dan
i dont know if i replied already but watch my GM 3 wire alternator hook up and make sure you have it wired right..
good for u, i learned at AIT electrical engineering school how to rewind alts gen
You know the know Bro. Great work.
Thanks buddy you may have really saved my life.
Also, some 1-wire alternators have an indicator light drive. You just connect the appropriate wire from the harness to this terminal on the alternator and the indicator light works
Great job. Thanks!
Grate video man!
Very informative thanks for your time!!
The gen light works on my tractor with a 10 SI. The gen light is an LED connected to +12 and pin 1 on the alternator. When the alt is not charging current flows out pin 1 to +12 and lights the LED.
when the alt is charging pin 1 is goes positive and current stops and LED goes out.
I just put a new 1-wire 100amp alternator in my 67 f100 and it never affected my charging light and no issues. I think the issue is that people delete all the wires from the old harness and just have the positive wire. I ditched all the wires to the external regulator but kept all the wires spliced into my positive wire that were there originally. Edit: Looking at the wiring diagram I wired back in the 904 wire or the Green-Red stripe wire that goes to the charging light.
Excellent video
Perfect! I was worried about not having a factory gen light I see I can just add a gauge good stuff !!
Great video bro this help me alot
Great video. Thank you
Nice video.Thank you.
my man clutch again!
nice clean job
Chris, I appreciate your videos. They're very well explained. Question, will you be putting out a video on "Blower Motors" ?
no, what are you trying to figure out about them, though?
Grate video I have a 71 Cheyenne Chevy truck has ac planning on putting electric fans and a amp im shure you covered this question but I wanted to ask just to cover bases.so going with a 140 I need to replace junction block and go from junction block to battery and altinator wire to junction block with 4 gage wire my question is the wire going to from existing junction block to new heavy junction block does that need to be 4 gage as well and what about outher factory wires like wires going to sylinoyd on starter or any outher wires can I keep thim factory? Thank you agine for your help.Im also using your videos to fix my 66 elcamino but that comes next .
Bravo!
Great videos , (keep it up) , any on hooking up a external regulator for a 1962 Motorola S.E.V of of a Volvo?
I put one of these on my tractor when the expensive factory one quit. $12 from junkyard vs $250
Car Sounds good
nice instruction, Thanks
Hi Chris, great video thank you. I want to convert my generator to Alternator in my 55 Olds. Is it the same set up as your chevelle? All I'm running is a modern stereo so was looking for a 90amp alt. My first time doing this conversion. Thanks
Same funky core support in my 69, I put the bat in the trunk.
Very well done
Hi Christ, great video brother.
I had a question. Hi is the voltmeter connected? Is just concerned on the battery?
Thank you
Good video.I would recommend using die electric grease or No-Ox on the wire inside the crimp to stop corrosion.
You should apply any dielectric corrosion inhibitor /after/ you make a good, proper crimp. The idea of crimping is 100% contact, not holding it tight.
Dry crimps, whatever dielectric that tickles your fancy (I like the CRC or loctite brands because they don’t dry out and get crumbly quickly) applied afterwards. I prefer crimping and adhesive-filled heat shrink, dry, but like for boats or trailer wiring here in the salt&rust zone a bit of dielectric at the wire to terminal juncture with heat shrink over.
Either way, the crimp should be swaged dry.
Great videos, they have helped a ton while restoring my 72 Chevelle. I'm planning a big 4 upgrade for a new alternator. I have a new junctiong block and 4awg wire for my alt and battery connection. I'm wondering if I also will need to upgrade the wire from the starter solenoid to the horn relay? Or will running a large wire from my new junctiong block to the horn relay work instead?
sorry, i think that wire can stay the same.. have you looked at wiring diagrams? i have that diagram on my ammeter video.. for 72..
Great Video, but why are your battery terminals upside down?
On a previous video, you showed a heavy gauge wire going to the starter. I did not see any changes to that wire. Should it be upgraded? Also, on my 1972 El Camino, the heavy gauge wire from alternator connects to the battery as in the first video, then to the battery. That is the only positive wire connected to the positive terminal on my battery. I am assuming that the power to the fuse box is coming off of the starter. Does that sound correct? It almost seems like the starter is serving as the junction block. Am I missing something? Should I connect a separate junction block from the starter or the battery? I am hooking to a 300 amp CS-130D in expectation to hook-up a stereo as well as several other electrical devices sometime in the future.
Another geat video Chris. You are a real big help. You should drop over to the Dog house and follow my progress. Thanks for sharing.
Just for people who don't know why you that you shouldn't solder these high current connections it is because solder will melt when the wire gets red hot if a component shorts out down the line somewhere and then you have a high current wire flopping around loose with grounds literally everywhere the crimped connection will hold tighter the hotter it gets. The idea is that whatever that has shorted out will eventually burn out before this wire does and you wont have a electrical fire.
Chris can I add a fusable link in line between the alternator and the new junction block as a proper fuse? Thank you.
The generator lights are back fed voltage. Grounded it's a complete circuit. But if voltage is present, there is no flow (ground) so the light goes off
Hello my friend, i could use some help. I have a Mercury Monterey custom 1962, this vehicle has a generator with a regulator with exterior voltage already integrated. I'm trying to put an alternator instead of a generator. My question is how can I connect the alternator and eliminate the use of the regulator part. I was watching a video that you posted where you explain the different connections. This regulator has the same connections AR, FL, and BAT. This alternator with 3 exits. How can I connect? Hopefully you can help me.
you're amazing dude great job explaining everything.
only problem is the chevy
Great info. FYI the 3/8 size bolt on the junction block is not necessary. You are only using that to clamp the two ring terminals together tightly enough to prevent loosening. A 1/4" stud is better because that means your ring terminals have less material drilled out of them, so they will conduct better than the 3/8" ring terminals and they will probably cost less. You don't need 3/8" bolt, that's big enough to torque to 200ftlbs or more. All you need for an electrical connection is maybe 15ftlbs at most. The only reason to use a 3/8 would be if the terminal block itself is a flimsy design (as it may well be something from china), then putting it a couple sizes larger will compensate for that, assuming they use larger housing etc for the larger stud size.
that junction box is a factory GM 140 amp.. that’s why the stud is that size.
Under the plug is the idiot light spade connector .... is just looped inside to the regulator. The top spade is the charge to indicator or "idiot light" and the one under it is the "key on" for the regulator.... it's looped inside to the chargeback lug ... that's it
yes it is.. but that is for a future video... thanks for the comment..
v nice g m alternator
Good video sar laik
Hi Chris… have hot rod with 140 amp one wire…all Chevy👍🏻…drops from 13.5 to 12.5 when electric fans come on but more drop when AC is turned on and after a few miles down the road the engine stops. Battery in trunk so I ran a 4 gauge direct to starter with no significant improvement and engine still stops after a few miles with AC and EF on. I did not remove the old wire to the alternator…just added 4 gauge wire to the starter…large post. Tried new alternator with no improvement. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Your videos and attention to detail are incredible. I do have a question though. I just installed a 1 wire alternator in a 1969 Mustang and I no longer have any power to the dashboard- headlights, ignition switch, etc. I'm guessing that was a part of the original wiring that was connected to the external regulator that I removed (as per powermaster instructions) Is there something that I'm missing, or was the car not wired correctly to begin with?
there’s a big red wire with a fusable link that powers all that.. it may have been on the starter solenoid.. find the big red wire going to fuse box and trace it.. I don’t mess with ford but it should be the same...
Where did you buy the terminals and crimpers? Great video and lots of info I need for my jeep project, thank you.
electric supply store.. those crimpers are like $300.. all electricians carry them
I know that places its not good to solder connections on AC voltage circuits but will solder migrate with high amp DC voltage?
Nice video. What is the rope for?
What is the point of the junction box? Why not just run the #4 wire directly from your alt. to the battery? Very good video thanks.
Awesome instruction, but I have one ?, why do I need to ground the alternator with a wire, isn't it already grounded to the Engine block and bracket. Just curious. Thanks
that’s part of the BIG 4 upgrade.. it IS already grounded but people do that to make sure it’s getting back to the battery 100%.. you would need to check resistance from the bracket to battery to see if you had any issues
Hi Chris,
what is the need for the red junction block?
why not put the positive lead of the alternator directly to the + battery ???
I intend to mount this alternator on a 350 SBC.
thank you, bruno from France
I have a factory ammeter in the dash that works.. you have to wire it like that for it to work right.. also, I can’t stand a bunch of crap wired to the positive battery terminal bolt.. I see it all the time
Do you have a source for the junction block with the mounting bosses?
The piece of all thread that you used, was it 3/8?
Thank you for your variety of topics. I enjoy your videos. I have watched a couple concerning generator to alternator conversions but can’t quite figure my situation out. I have a 64 Falcon with an external voltage reg that has screw terminals instead of a plug. The guy at NAPA suggested a GM 1 wire alt so that is what I have to work with. Is there a way to wire it or should I try to swap for a different alt?
gm 10 si case 1 wire should fit right on there
Chris Craft Thanks. Can you give me any guidance on how to bypass the voltage regulator.
you take it off and throw it in the trash.. the 1 wire is internally regulated
I have a factory alt that has a 3 prong harness with 1 wire in it.. I just bought a new alternator that has a 4 prong harness but my factory harness doesnt fit what do i do can i cut the factory harness wire and solder in onto the new 4 prong connector which prong do i use?? Please
Great Video
What did you do to the factory charging wire? Did you cap it or reroute it to the junction block?
you have to use it..it stayed the same
I'm covering my classic car to a 1 wire 100 amp alternator with a 4 AWG wire. In the video (time 21:23) you mention that the original charging wire was removed completely. Do I cut the 10 AWG wire and removed it ?
Thanks Chris
Nice❤
What's the rope wrapped around the washer bottle bracket
Hi Chris,
My old 3x wire alternator was only outputting a little less than 12v at idle. Swapped out new voltage reg, big 4x upgrade and new battery. Still registering the same so I bought and installed a new 1x wire 180 alternator. Still registering
11.9 at alternator output any ideas? I bypassed the external stock regulator. Running 1x wire alternator directly to battery positive. 68 El Camino
If I give,a little gas the voltage will go up to 14
is this a GM? if you have a voltage regulator that needs an externally regulated old STYLE alternator.... what is the vehicle?
So, with the one wire alternator, obviously the charging light won’t work, but I’m not clear how an ammeter would work with the external regulator is bypassed with the jumpers. Will I need to get a volt meter? I see how that would work. I’m keeping my factory gauges on my ‘68 Chevelle, which has an ammeter.
watch my ammeter hook up video it clearly shows where the ammeter leads are hooked up.. your car should be wired like my 70.. the voltage regulator has nothing to do with the ammeter in the dash.. I run an ammeter in the dash and an auxiliary volt meter by the ash tray
So I have a 72 Buick skylark with 350,
My gen light stays on but no signs of my battery draining
I saw the extra ground cables and I'm wondering why they are necessary. The alternator mounting bolt at the bottom bolts directly to the engine block and the factory ground cable carries that ground back to the battery. As long as you add a ground cable from the engine block to to the body and another from the same mounting point on the body over to the frame. I would think that 2 is all you would need to add.
audio people do it so they are 100% there is no resistance to negative side of battery.. like painted brackets, grease/oil, corrosion between mounting surfaces... I do it with 75 amp and higher alternators because I sell the kits and install them on people’s cars
great video! I've learned a lot from all your videos. My question- My American Autowire part# 510004 Power Plus 13 wire kit instructions said to run the wire to the starter solenoid from the pole on the alternator (GM SI Series Single Wire 120 amp) However, you have that wire running directly to the Battery via the junction box. Are both methods correct?
64-71 like mine.. they changed it in 72.. watch my how to hook an ammeter video where I show that change GM did.. yes, starter solenoid big bolt would be the same as the junction block
I will check that video out. Meanwhile, thanks for all the videos and please keep posting.
How long is your all thread stud for the alternator ground? 2" I need to get one for my current project too.
Home Depot sells it by the foot cheap .. sorry, I don’t remember
I learned A ton from your videos, Probably saved me a fortune on my 67 Firebird alternator upgrade I am currently working on. One thing I don't understand is why do you need to jump the wires on the external regulator plug? Aren't the Blue and white wires that went back to the alternator now dead ended? Why jump them to anything now that they no longer are hooked to anything?
if you want your gen light to work on the dash you jump the plug when you run a 3 wire alternator
@@chriscraft77022 Thanks. So with the simple 1 wire set up it isn't really necessary. Thank you very much again for this video . Don't think I would have even tackled this project without your help, and if I had It would not have got it near so right.. thanks again
with a 1 wire alternator just pull the regulator off but you lose gen dash light..
To keep the Gem light in the dash? Just jump the original 2 wire alternator plug? Just connect the 2 together?
I wish I could give this video 10 likes.
Hi Chris - love your how to videos and the drawings that accompany them . If the answer to what I'm about to ask exists in another of your videos I apologize. I have a 69 Chevelle with the factory Tach with the Batt/Fuel/Temp/and Oil gauge in the same gauge. My mechanic upgraded the alternator to 140 amp but kept the external voltage regulator (had to be upgraded as well) .
I just realized they DID NOT change the charging wire to a 4 or 6 gauge wire (this is so basic they must be clueless) So my question is , if we change the charging wire to a larger one, does it only go to the distribution block by the battery, or does it also have to come off the distribution block and run over to the drivers side of the car to the bus bar / voltage regulator? And do you have a clue what their thinking was in going with the externally regulated VS the internally regulated? Thanks so much.
sounds like you got screwed.. there is too much for me to answer without seeing the car in real life.. are you sure they even put a 140 amp on there? If they did why would they use the external voltage regulator? makes no sense.. you car is wired just like mine..
@@chriscraft77022 Yes they put a Tuff Stuff 140 AMP Alternator on and Tuff Stuff's required solid state external voltage regulator. May main concern is the charging wire and when it is upgraded the fusible link from the distribution point to the positive post is will be too small and also be an issue.
@@chriscraft77022 Yes they put a Tuff Stuff 140 AMP Alternator on and Tuff Stuff's required solid state external voltage regulator. May main concern is the charging wire and when it is upgraded the fusible link from the distribution point to the positive post is will be too small and also be an issue.
you see how I wired mine up for 140 amp.. yours should be the same.. you always convert the system to internally regulated when upgrading the alternator.. that system has been obsolete for 50 years.. you literally need to copy what I did to my car in the video.. or your car might burn to the ground one of these days
I had this exact question on my 69 chevelle. I was going to use a 100 amp with the external regulator. Do I need to upgrade the wire from distribution block to voltage regular on drivers side? Chris has me thinking a one wire internally regulated may be safer
Chris - I know this is an old video, hopefully you can remember. I have a 71 Chevelle, w/ HEI. Replacing a failed 1 wire with 100A. rewiring with 6 gauge per powermaster. previous owner ran charge wire from alternator to the horn relay and old regulator connector, back to the power connector. + battery also connected to the connector. I jumpered the old regulator connector like you did, wondering if the charge wire should go to the new connector, then run a new wire to the horn relay? advice?
On a 71 the charging lug (alt) goes back to the positive battery post (10g connection) throw the regulator in the trash you do not use it with a 1 wire alternator( I never said to jump it) ( that is with a 3 wire gm internally regulated)
Ok my old alternator was 65 amp charge light was dim. So I changed it out for a 105 amp and now when I shut car off and pull key out charge light stays on plus my tack is on 9 k when I turn key on tack goes to 7 k and charge light goes out this is on 84 oldsmobile cutlass help …alt is 3 wire
Quick question for ya...so it's ok to delete on the 3 wires currently running to the alternator? They all disappear into a wrapped up harness. Not sure how to go about deleting them properly.
Love this video!
you have to just cap them off with a butt connector and hide them in the harness
@@chriscraft77022 Thanks man.