Awesome video. I just replaced my 30 am generator in a 58 Ford Fairlane with a 90 amp alternator. My old ammeter was doing the same thing resting on 0 and even taking a dive with the headlights on. I learned today I need a volt gauge. Thanks for explaining so clearly
Very good video - just what I needed. Working to make sure I've got my Ammeter wired right as my replacement harness on my 66 Ford truck didn't come with Ammeter support. Thank you!
..ok Chris, I finally got it! Thankyou very much. Since I don't have a horn relay buss, I used the battery junction and the alternator main plus post, all fused per your directive.
Sir. Thank you for the prompt reply. I have had this Car for 38 years and the las time I had it apart for paint a Friend moved the Engine Wiring Harness back under the Firewall into the inside across the floor and back out the end of the Trans tunnel because it would better. It has always worked but now that I have removed the Engine I'm trying to get the Wiring back across the Firewall and back to where it somewhat belongs' I have a Summint Remote Solenoid Kit that I want to use. Thank you for your patients. I can be annoying from time to time. Ted. PS. The Car is not at all stock.
Very good video. Will be adding a Ralley Guage Cluster into my 1970 Canadian Pontiac 2+2 and wasn't sure how to wire it's ammeter. It'll be the same as your 70 Chevelle.
I found a spare amp meter on my boat and was plotting to use it for my trolling motor. The very few secs of the video squashed my dreams. My amp meter is floating up at 80....
So, the reason that it doesn't show much charge, is because your battery is already fully charged. Leave your headlights on, for about a half-hour, then start your engine. You will, then, see a significant charge, because the battery will need to charge, so the regulator will allow more charging current, into the battery. Ammeters are great for any vehicle where you need to power accessories that cause significant drain, or for long periods of time, without the engine running, such as vehicles with high powered audio systems, taxi cabs, or r.v's. It tells you how much power you're using, & after engine start, helps indicate how low the battery is, by showing how much current is being drawn from the alternator, & when it is fully charged, when it come back to 0.
Hello I have watched pretty much all your car wiring videos, I'm having a terrible time wiring my dual headlights and rear lights aswell, was hoping you could make it look easy like you always do.Thanks
Thanks again Chris. mine has this neg. and pos. So I tried ground and positive,,, sparks. Now on to a fuel gauge,,,BOOOmmm. my cluster is bad only thing works in a '76 chevy truck is oil pressure. Sometime they replaced the tranny different speedometer connection. Fuel tank sending unit has 2 wires 1 blue other red. I assume blue is ground, red to gauge. I tested blue and red wire with about 1/4 tank for ohms it registered 14 on meter.
Morning, a very well done video... Sir I am 68 years old... I am not a auto tech... My whole life I have been a fixall, we know what that is.... In order to be able to do things you know nothing about is know the simple brick.... One brick... known fact.... ? which way does current flow.... Know the answer and why it is the answer.....2 differences between series and paradelle why and the reason. .... Resistance and impedance... how and why....capacitance and induction... A standard car batter is 12 volts x amount of amps.... B;y itself it has only self impedance and self capacitance......A system using any part of the capacitance will be know as a resistance.... A volt gage or amp meter can only tell you the differences between voltage or current.... volt meter is between Positive and negative...simple and really only tells you battery voltage, I think we should know the battery voltage.... Amp meter is wired in shut of the captaincies of the battery... with no load or resistance is has nothing to read, so it should be set up to read 0.... with a load or resistance of any amount it should tell you the about of the load in current so one know AH and charging rate.... Now, you took a very good explanation of the two gages and I totally screwed it up... Education is a great thing, or is it..... I appreciate your thought process and your willingness to share.... Best to you and your new video...
I watch your videos all the time. Just would like to know what you suggest is a good keyed on power source wire to run to a relay to power a msd 6014 ls box. It says it needs a 12v keyed power source. My vehicle is a 1972 Chevrolet impala with a ls swap and carburetor setup
I like your. show no bullshit waste of time in mom sense straight to the point, well done, thank you & good help clear Y concise. Fixed my charging problems. but I have that squeal on low RPM until I gas it at 4000 it stops, thou low charge may be why, but it charges so it's alright.
Very good theory and practical run. I was always fond of my amp meter in my previous van. My now 05 Town and country Chrysler doesn't have one. But I would like to adapt one. Would you happen to know how to wire this round type into the vans 12v system? Gauge will go on dash. Please be as specific as possible. Thx
Quick question Chris. If I was to add an amp meter to an externally regulated alternator system all I have to add is two fused 12awg wires, one from the shunt the other to the junction block going back to the amp meter?
Hey Chis im trying to do the big 3 or 4 upgrade on my 72 monte carlo that uses the starter solenoid style system. how would i wire the upgraded cables? the harness is from AAW for a stock 72 and i have an internally regulated alternator. Thanks man been a big fan for a long time lol.
Easiest way to think of a Ammeter is like your meter from your power co. or your water co. It goes directly inline You want all the current to flow THROUGH your meter. From the battery to the fuse panel "VS" a volt meter connects to a positive & negative supply to indicate the amount of voltage you have at any given state. And can be connected anywhere you can pickup a hot wire and a common ground.
So just asking for a friend lol What happens when you wire a volt like a amp ? dead battery no start kinda thing? I did it ... Thank you for your video...Got brand new volt gauge but guess I will buy a amp gauge almost blind from wiring diagrams "Im shure I have it wired right..." THANK YOU!!
Might be a dumb question. I’m a novice electrical guy. Working on a 48 Cj2a converged to 12 volts. All lights and starts etc.. all new wires... runs great. No fuses except one on light switch. I wanna keep my amp gauge so I know I’m charging. I have a 79 amp internal regulated one wire alternator. i have a kit to hook up to amp gauge. I bought a 100 amp gauge. Would that be ok? Current amp gauge which is not hooked up is only 50. I don’t wanna burn it out with 79 amps and cause a fire. I know you like volt meters, I like the fact I can see what’s charging on such a small system. Lights and heater only accessories. Thanks!
Hi Chris I have a ford 51 shoebox original gauges , amp meter with a 302w with with internal regulated alt . can i wire up the amp gauge the same as a volt meter. to just read volts Cheers Brad
Hey Chris, I have a GM style alternator in my old tractor and the alternator is internally regulated and the tractor has an ammeter gauge. Which your video said doesn’t make sense but it’s not hurting anything right? Anyways it has a three wire alternator one big charge cable and two smaller ones. Brand new batteries 2 6’s in series and new alternator. But when the tractor is revved up the ammeter gauge pegs out. I hooked up a voltage meter to the back of the alternator and got 15.5 Volts when revved up. Do you know where and what my problem could be? Thanks!
If I ran 1 wire of the ammeter to the starter solenoid post that the battery runs to and connect the other wire of the ammeter directly to the place that the car pulls power from, would that work?
When you say "to the dash", do you mean the Ignition switch "On" position? when you sa Amp, do you mean Alternator? Please be specific for a 59 Chevy PU with just a OfF - ON switch. Thanks, Jim
that is a 10g wire that goes to the S on the starter solenoid.. it goes to the neutral safety switch then to the ignition switch on the bottom of the steering column.. so if you have a center console it will have a neutral safety switch there.. column shift auto will have the nuetral safety at the bottom of the steering column..68-72 gm a body.. yes, it is supposed to have a fused link by the solenoid but they are always cut out
Question. Hooked the amp meter up exactly as you said. Wires to the gauge first. Bring them out to the engine compartment, one side to that battery side block, the other side to the horn relay. Both wires are are fused. Connect the battery up and both 10 amp fuses blue instantly. Disconnected both wires from the back of the amp itself, fuses of course then did not blow. Could the gauge itself be bad, possibly grounding out internally? By the way I'm trying to reuse the factory battery/amp gauge in the cluster of four gauges that came with this vehicle. 66 Impala ss.
No. Did not hook directly to the battery at all. I used that little Junction block that you demonstrated in your video as hook up point on that side. I guess someone in the past has fried the battery meter itself. Thanks so much for all your help.
Quick question, I installed a volt meter in my 79 dodge d100 and it's externally regulated. Could that be the reason I'm getting no reading on the gauge?
Hey Chris, if I am running an externally regulated alternator and I switch from a stock points distributor to an MSD distributor, will the factory amp gauge still work properly. Thanks for any assistance.
I have external regular on my chevelle. I’ve never changed to a 1 wire. I have a volt meter. I’m wondering if it is useless and I should switch to an ammeter.
So I'm putting a volt meter in my 2007 mustang gt but the radio and every other key on wire is about 1 volt less than the actual battery voltage. The only thing I can think of is to put a relay in direct from the battery and use the radio wire to turn the relay on to power the volt meter so I get accurate voltage.
@@chriscraft77022 yes 14.5 at the battery an 13 at the radio wire. I also tried the OBD connection key on wire and it's the same but the always hot wire on the OBD is correct.
I’m building a 1971 with a ls swap.so I have a internally regulated alternator and a after market voltmeter, can I remove the anmeter wiring from the front harness to avoid the live wires under the dash?
You only had to adjust the voltage regulator when you installed them. You had to set it so that it still charged with everything on but wouldn't overcharge when everything was off.
Sir. Do you have a picture of the Engine Fire Wall Wiring Routing? I don't see how I can properly get past the Windshield Wiper Motor to the Starter and Alternator on My 72 GS. Thank you. Ted.
I'm confused. You show the wires running into and out of the fuse box. Are they connecting to any post in the fusebox, or are they just going through it as a matter of convenience?
on a factory ammeter car they run them like that.. most vehicles have a few extra or “left over” blank spaces.. you would connect the 10 or 12 gauge wires to..
I have a 63 willy jeep i am restoring. Not much of a electrician so wondering why not an Ammeter with a 10si alternator upgrade? Also, what size fuses and how do you determine in line fuse size?
depends on what amp alternator you run... up to 75 amps 10 gauge stranded wire is good.. I would only run an ammeter if you have one in the dash.. adding one is pointless.. add a volt meter if you run an internally regulated alternator
Thanks. i added a 63 amp 10si. Sorry...what fuze size should i wire in as i do not like fuse links either as they are hard to see when bad. also, Can i use a led dummy light or does it have to be incandescent?
just like any other wire that goes through the fuse box … there are like 20 .. or you can be a dipshit and drill a hole through your fire wall .. your fuse box should have a few free spaces
Can you make new a diagram with the alternator? I just installed an ammeter into a 64 chevelle with a 396. The car did not have a junction block and the alternator wire was about a16g. I upgraded everything to 8g. After the install the gauge bounces at idle (did not originally have a gauge) and will steady at higher idle...that may be because it was cold (29°f) and I didn't run it very long since its in the garage. However, it's reading around 30ish amps. The car sits in a garage with the neg cable off with a battery tender on it so the battery is fully charged. I feel like I wired it wrong -New 8g Alt wire to horn relay. -Bat to one side fuse other side to gauge. -other side of gauge to fuse then to horn relay. Car has msd 6a (not a 6al) and a msd distributor and coil of that matters. Also no choke on the carb.
your car is wired just like mine... did you change to internally regulated alternator? your car should idle at 750rpm with no charging problems.. there are so many things that could be wrong.... my factory ammeter works but gauge hardly reads over 0 because of internally regulated
Sir. I went too Google to learn how to e-mail you privately. But I'm not able too access any option that was offered on the Videos I watched. I will look at other Video's you have and keep an eye out for a view of your Firewall. Thank you. Ted.
My install instructions for a Ford say to pull accessory wires off starter switch where main +bat connects, hook one end of amp gauge there with main +cable. Bolt all the accessory wires together with other end of amp gauge. Does this sound legit?
I decided not to use the amp gauge. I thought it would be better for showing instantly if the alternator, voltage regulator or fan belt went out. Though I'm not so sure it would really be more visible than a volt gauge. That car reminds me of my 1st car, 1970 Monte. The grill, headlights dash looks identicle. Late 60s early 70s. Those were some good years.
Ammeters make way more sense. It tells you what your alternator is doing. A voltmeter is hard to discern crap battery / good alternator or vice versa. Pair in a modern battery you can't pop the caps and check with a hydrometer and you've killed so many simple, quick and accurate diagnostics.
if you have a lot of amp draw it would be wise to run an ammeter.. (ambulance, wrecker, etc. ) but the internally regulated alternators dont always read above 0 until you turn everything on.. i run them both on my 70 chevelle.. what vehicle or machine do you run the ammeter on?
@@chriscraft77022 Correct, they show the alternator's response to putting a charge back into a battery, whether through load or a discharged battery. Disconnect the battery and you'll see a good spike. With a quality ammeter, not a cheapie, you can discern brush wear or shorts. I'm not running an ammeter on a car, the car company's have stuck us with volt meters or worse, idiot lights. I will always run an ammeter on the boat where it's necessary to predict troubles, which are always more frequent on the salt water even with sealed alternator's, starters and wires and even on a diesel which doesn't require power to run.
@@chriscraft77022 I have a 58 apache truck. I am removing the old gauge dash cluster and putting in a new cluster with volts instead of amps. The previous owner used ez wire but had the wire running from the alternator trough the voltmeter gauge and ending in the under dash fuse box. Do I just delete the voltmeter and run the wire directly from the Alternator to the fuse box and then just wire up the new voltmeter from anywhere?
@@chriscraft77022 Ok thank you. So then I should not just re splice or replace the wire where the ammeter was between? Just remove them entirely? Do you think that that wire was also powering the fuse box? Or probably not?
what you dont realise is peopel use all cindes of gages on porpose to change the polarity of the entinre engine on porpose to get diferent effects on the ignition system no mather if you spark inside ore out side the engine it does not mather the polarity of a ignition coil it still will fire expecialy if you mention in your video alternators and starter motors who by the way can bouth by a motor and generator at the same time and you did mention a horn relay and a buzzer that used the old cars like ford model T for exampel if wrong wired ore made some on porpose modifications you can have engine run one isues not only that you can actualy make a increase in ignition energy consuption that why peopel experiance a drop in fuel consuption because the system switching from positive to negative ground ignition system thats why those gages and selenoids are made for and their true porpose expecialy if you have dual ignition like waste spark managment you get lot diferent interesting effects ore use compresion to ignite fuel on compresion stroke and use ignition coil to fire it on exaust stroke virtualy you shuld get the similar effect like the waste spark all it need to do is to force more air on the compresion stroke and there you go expecialy if you runing a engine on cold implosion your egr system is always open so any thing that is not burn will by returned back and burn fuel again only thing that peopel didnt realise is they need a higher spark and that is achived with plasma ignition so basicaly your gasoline engine can by easely turned to a disel engine futher more a 4stroke can by turnet to a 2stroke as well thats why oil and fuel aditives were originaly meant to do as well thats their real porpose to enialete engine diferences many peopel dont know about this litel info only the old mechanics know about this that is war tehnology by the way you can have dual ignition ore dual grounding decices so the truth is you dont need big engines at all to have masive power out put a small one does the same with less fuel consuption thats where fuel vaporization tehnology comes in to play you can go lean as much as you like only if you have a strong enough ignition system to actualy ignite it GM uses that actual with HEI and on carburators selenoids and vvt selenoids to let the fuel in and to vaporise it with a curent you get increase in volumen of fuel meaning more will go in the cilinders by using less fuel just like a ordinary LPG car and gasoline is lot stronger than LPG its waste shit the truth is you can performe all day work with 3L of fuel just like the old disel generators they were used on stone cruching mines high torgue wood saws etc and you actualy culd use multipel fuel types by using a fuel mixing valves ore chambers the erly disel engines didnt have a pump the used a second mixing chamber so there you go peopel some of the good old tehnology by the way peopel all the ignition systems today are only a bade replacement for the original DC magneto that staff was solid and bulet pruff today engines are shit thats why peopel love old timers you can mode them how much you want and see amazing things
Awesome video. I just replaced my 30 am generator in a 58 Ford Fairlane with a 90 amp alternator. My old ammeter was doing the same thing resting on 0 and even taking a dive with the headlights on. I learned today I need a volt gauge. Thanks for explaining so clearly
Very good video - just what I needed. Working to make sure I've got my Ammeter wired right as my replacement harness on my 66 Ford truck didn't come with Ammeter support. Thank you!
I'm glad I found your Vid's. It is a BIG help. Thank you.
You really know what you're doing. Thanks for the help.
..ok Chris, I finally got it!
Thankyou very much. Since I don't have a horn relay buss, I used the battery junction and the alternator main plus post, all fused per your directive.
Thank you chris. With out u i could not get it to gether thank u brother
Sir. Thank you for the prompt reply. I have had this Car for 38 years and the las time I had it apart for paint a Friend moved the Engine Wiring Harness back under the Firewall into the inside across the floor and back out the end of the Trans tunnel because it would better. It has always worked but now that I have removed the Engine I'm trying to get the Wiring back across the Firewall
and back to where it somewhat belongs' I have a Summint Remote Solenoid Kit that I want to use. Thank you for your patients. I can be annoying from time to time. Ted. PS. The Car is not at all stock.
Thanks. I watched 25 or more. Videos and my problem is solved
Very good video. Will be adding a Ralley Guage Cluster into my 1970 Canadian Pontiac 2+2 and wasn't sure how to wire it's ammeter. It'll be the same as your 70 Chevelle.
Another great one thanks so much, I told the guy at O'Reilly's that I am only as smart as the last Chris Craft video I watched....he laughed at that.
Nice explanation on the amp meter👍
I'd watch this just to hear the engine rumble. But really, super educational too.
I found a spare amp meter on my boat and was plotting to use it for my trolling motor. The very few secs of the video squashed my dreams. My amp meter is floating up at 80....
Your Big Block has No problem starting multiple time in a short period of time. Excellent. Ted.
craft_77022@yahoo.com / email me first ...
So, the reason that it doesn't show much charge, is because your battery is already fully charged. Leave your headlights on, for about a half-hour, then start your engine. You will, then, see a significant charge, because the battery will need to charge, so the regulator will allow more charging current, into the battery. Ammeters are great for any vehicle where you need to power accessories that cause significant drain, or for long periods of time, without the engine running, such as vehicles with high powered audio systems, taxi cabs, or r.v's. It tells you how much power you're using, & after engine start, helps indicate how low the battery is, by showing how much current is being drawn from the alternator, & when it is fully charged, when it come back to 0.
Huge thank you!
Hello I have watched pretty much all your car wiring videos, I'm having a terrible time wiring my dual headlights and rear lights aswell, was hoping you could make it look easy like you always do.Thanks
Love your videos 👍3
Thanks again Chris. mine has this neg. and pos. So I tried ground and positive,,, sparks. Now on to a fuel gauge,,,BOOOmmm. my cluster is bad only thing works in a '76 chevy truck is oil pressure. Sometime they replaced the tranny different speedometer connection. Fuel tank sending unit has 2 wires 1 blue other red. I assume blue is ground, red to gauge. I tested blue and red wire with about 1/4 tank for ohms it registered 14 on meter.
Morning, a very well done video... Sir I am 68 years old... I am not a auto tech... My whole life I have been a fixall, we know what that is.... In order to be able to do things you know nothing about is know the simple brick.... One brick... known fact.... ? which way does current flow.... Know the answer and why it is the answer.....2 differences between series and paradelle why and the reason. .... Resistance and impedance... how and why....capacitance and induction...
A standard car batter is 12 volts x amount of amps.... B;y itself it has only self impedance and self capacitance......A system using any part of the capacitance will be know as a resistance.... A volt gage or amp meter can only tell you the differences between voltage or current.... volt meter is between Positive and negative...simple and really only tells you battery voltage, I think we should know the battery voltage.... Amp meter is wired in shut of the captaincies of the battery... with no load or resistance is has nothing to read, so it should be set up to read 0.... with a load or resistance of any amount it should tell you the about of the load in current so one know AH and charging rate....
Now, you took a very good explanation of the two gages and I totally screwed it up... Education is a great thing, or is it..... I appreciate your thought process and your willingness to share.... Best to you and your new video...
wow...big help. Thanks👍👍👍
I watch your videos all the time. Just would like to know what you suggest is a good keyed on power source wire to run to a relay to power a msd 6014 ls box. It says it needs a 12v keyed power source. My vehicle is a 1972 Chevrolet impala with a ls swap and carburetor setup
Nicely done!
Thanks the video help me a lot
Great job.i have a question . On your car diagram,can I run a shunt where the horn relay is?
Great video buddy. Ever get tired of your car let me know. Thumbs up👍
Nice project
Very informative video. Have you ever installed a digital ammeter for fun for car audio to see the draw from the amplifier in real time?
Gr8 job player!!! I subscribed!!!!!!!
I like your. show no bullshit waste of time in mom sense straight to the point, well done, thank you & good help clear Y concise. Fixed my charging problems. but I have that squeal on low RPM until I gas it at 4000 it stops, thou low charge may be why, but it charges so it's alright.
Very good theory and practical run. I was always fond of my amp meter in my previous van. My now 05 Town and country Chrysler doesn't have one. But I would like to adapt one. Would you happen to know how to wire this round type into the vans 12v system? Gauge will go on dash. Please be as specific as possible. Thx
Quick question Chris. If I was to add an amp meter to an externally regulated alternator system all I have to add is two fused 12awg wires, one from the shunt the other to the junction block going back to the amp meter?
Hey Chis im trying to do the big 3 or 4 upgrade on my 72 monte carlo that uses the starter solenoid style system. how would i wire the upgraded cables? the harness is from AAW for a stock 72 and i have an internally regulated alternator. Thanks man been a big fan for a long time lol.
Easiest way to think of a Ammeter is like your meter from your power co. or your water co. It goes directly inline You want all the current to flow THROUGH your meter. From the battery to the fuse panel "VS" a volt meter connects to a positive & negative supply to indicate the amount of voltage you have at any given state. And can be connected anywhere you can pickup a hot wire and a common ground.
Dig that you took the time to make a mock up dashboard.
Chris I had an idea combine 2 wire in parallel to get higher capacity amp current wire
I would not try that
So just asking for a friend lol What happens when you wire a volt like a amp ? dead battery no start kinda thing? I did it ... Thank you for your video...Got brand new volt gauge but guess I will buy a amp gauge almost blind from wiring diagrams "Im shure I have it wired right..." THANK YOU!!
Might be a dumb question. I’m a novice electrical guy.
Working on a 48 Cj2a converged to 12 volts. All lights and starts etc.. all new wires... runs great. No fuses except one on light switch.
I wanna keep my amp gauge so I know I’m charging. I have a 79 amp internal regulated one wire alternator. i have a kit to hook up to amp gauge.
I bought a 100 amp gauge. Would that be ok? Current amp gauge which is not hooked up is only 50. I don’t wanna burn it out with 79 amps and cause a fire.
I know you like volt meters, I like the fact I can see what’s charging on such a small system. Lights and heater only accessories.
Thanks!
just put it on there.. it’s gonna be like the one in the video that bearly moves
Hi Chris I have a ford 51 shoebox original gauges , amp meter with a 302w with with internal regulated alt . can i wire up the amp gauge the same as a volt meter. to just read volts Cheers Brad
Hey Chris, I have a GM style alternator in my old tractor and the alternator is internally regulated and the tractor has an ammeter gauge. Which your video said doesn’t make sense but it’s not hurting anything right? Anyways it has a three wire alternator one big charge cable and two smaller ones. Brand new batteries 2 6’s in series and new alternator. But when the tractor is revved up the ammeter gauge pegs out. I hooked up a voltage meter to the back of the alternator and got 15.5 Volts when revved up. Do you know where and what my problem could be? Thanks!
what does it charge at when it idles? is the ammeter new or old?
If I ran 1 wire of the ammeter to the starter solenoid post that the battery runs to and connect the other wire of the ammeter directly to the place that the car pulls power from, would that work?
When you say "to the dash", do you mean the Ignition switch "On" position?
when you sa Amp, do you mean Alternator? Please be specific for a 59 Chevy PU with just a OfF - ON switch. Thanks, Jim
Sir. There is a Purple Wire coming from the Engine Side Harness. Is it the "Fusible Link" and where is it terminated under the Dash ? Ted.
that is a 10g wire that goes to the S on the starter solenoid.. it goes to the neutral safety switch then to the ignition switch on the bottom of the steering column.. so if you have a center console it will have a neutral safety switch there.. column shift auto will have the nuetral safety at the bottom of the steering column..68-72 gm a body.. yes, it is supposed to have a fused link by the solenoid but they are always cut out
Hey chris I'm doing my first restoration. Got a question or 2 about volt meter. Having problems. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
what you need to know?
Question. Hooked the amp meter up exactly as you said. Wires to the gauge first. Bring them out to the engine compartment, one side to that battery side block, the other side to the horn relay. Both wires are are fused. Connect the battery up and both 10 amp fuses blue instantly. Disconnected both wires from the back of the amp itself, fuses of course then did not blow. Could the gauge itself be bad, possibly grounding out internally? By the way I'm trying to reuse the factory battery/amp gauge in the cluster of four gauges that came with this vehicle. 66 Impala ss.
are you connected to positive on battery? those gauges get fried all the time because people think they hook to negative
No. Did not hook directly to the battery at all. I used that little Junction block that you demonstrated in your video as hook up point on that side. I guess someone in the past has fried the battery meter itself. Thanks so much for all your help.
Quick question, I installed a volt meter in my 79 dodge d100 and it's externally regulated. Could that be the reason I'm getting no reading on the gauge?
volt meters are ran in parallel to any positive and any negative.. did you replace an ammeter with the volt meter?
@@chriscraft77022 yes I replaced the ammeter as it had gotten too hot and started to melt
@@andrewrobertson2388 .. they are wired completely different
Hey Chris, if I am running an externally regulated alternator and I switch from a stock points distributor to an MSD distributor, will the factory amp gauge still work properly. Thanks for any assistance.
Yes
Thanks
Amp gauge shows like the battery charging or not charging
I bought the same gauge for volts! I have a vw bug air cooled motor with generator will the gauge I bought work.
the gauge will work but you want an ammeter on a generator car.. how would you know if the generator is charging enough? you won’t with a volt meter
I have external regular on my chevelle. I’ve never changed to a 1 wire. I have a volt meter. I’m wondering if it is useless and I should switch to an ammeter.
I have both on my Chevelle.. nothing wrong with volt meter on externally regulated
So I'm putting a volt meter in my 2007 mustang gt but the radio and every other key on wire is about 1 volt less than the actual battery voltage. The only thing I can think of is to put a relay in direct from the battery and use the radio wire to turn the relay on to power the volt meter so I get accurate voltage.
there has to be something else you could get power from.. is it 1 volt lower with the engine running?
@@chriscraft77022 yes 14.5 at the battery an 13 at the radio wire. I also tried the OBD connection key on wire and it's the same but the always hot wire on the OBD is correct.
@@chriscraft77022 I ended up fuse tapping to the inboard ignition fuse, all is well now.
I’m building a 1971 with a ls swap.so I have a internally regulated alternator and a after market voltmeter, can I remove the anmeter wiring from the front harness to avoid the live wires under the dash?
yes
You only had to adjust the voltage regulator when you installed them. You had to set it so that it still charged with everything on but wouldn't overcharge when everything was off.
Wow! Guess I'll settle for a multimeter and check my car battery off n on.
First wire is to fuse bod power second wire it to the battery
Sir. Do you have a picture of the Engine Fire Wall Wiring Routing? I don't see how I can properly get past the Windshield Wiper Motor to the Starter and Alternator on My 72 GS. Thank you. Ted.
you have to pull the wiper motor off
give me your email I’ll try to send a pic
I'm confused. You show the wires running into and out of the fuse box. Are they connecting to any post in the fusebox, or are they just going through it as a matter of convenience?
on a factory ammeter car they run them like that.. most vehicles have a few extra or “left over” blank spaces.. you would connect the 10 or 12 gauge wires to..
I have a 63 willy jeep i am restoring. Not much of a electrician so wondering why not an Ammeter with a 10si alternator upgrade? Also, what size fuses and how do you determine in line fuse size?
depends on what amp alternator you run... up to 75 amps 10 gauge stranded wire is good.. I would only run an ammeter if you have one in the dash.. adding one is pointless.. add a volt meter if you run an internally regulated alternator
Thanks. i added a 63 amp 10si. Sorry...what fuze size should i wire in as i do not like fuse links either as they are hard to see when bad. also,
Can i use a led dummy light or does it have to be incandescent?
I have a question. What do you mean when you say run those two wires "through" the fuse box. I'm confused on that one. I get the rest of it though.
just like any other wire that goes through the fuse box … there are like 20 .. or you can be a dipshit and drill a hole through your fire wall .. your fuse box should have a few free spaces
Got it. Thanks.
what if you have a one wire alternator. With the one wire alt it hooks to the post side of the starter solenoid with the heavy + side of battery
never mind. I needed to watch all before commenting. DUH!! sorry. Very good video.
Can you make new a diagram with the alternator? I just installed an ammeter into a 64 chevelle with a 396. The car did not have a junction block and the alternator wire was about a16g. I upgraded everything to 8g. After the install the gauge bounces at idle (did not originally have a gauge) and will steady at higher idle...that may be because it was cold (29°f) and I didn't run it very long since its in the garage. However, it's reading around 30ish amps. The car sits in a garage with the neg cable off with a battery tender on it so the battery is fully charged.
I feel like I wired it wrong
-New 8g Alt wire to horn relay.
-Bat to one side fuse other side to gauge.
-other side of gauge to fuse then to horn relay.
Car has msd 6a (not a 6al) and a msd distributor and coil of that matters. Also no choke on the carb.
Should I wire in a junction block? It must have been deleted at some point. This is not my vehicle by the way.
your car is wired just like mine... did you change to internally regulated alternator? your car should idle at 750rpm with no charging problems.. there are so many things that could be wrong.... my factory ammeter works but gauge hardly reads over 0 because of internally regulated
It's not my car, it isn't internally regulated
I just ordered a junction block for the car, i have the gauge wired in series which may be wrong
@@madmike214 just study the 2 wiring diagrams in the video.. you can run it ether way..
God
haha awesome. thank you. DONT BE LIKE THIS GUY ->
(a dunce)
Sorry back to it. What if you have an ammeter and have a one wire alternator?
the alternator does not matter you just don’t run any ammeter leads straight to the battery
Sir. I went too Google to learn how to e-mail you privately. But I'm not able too access any option that was offered on the Videos I watched. I will look at other Video's you have and keep an eye out for a view of your Firewall. Thank you. Ted.
my wiring an ignition box video should show it somewhere
Sir. Thank you. Ted.
Hi. Can you run the wire from the Starter Motor to the ammeter and then back to the Starter Motor to complete the circuit. Instead of the horn relay ?
yes.. but maybe starter motor to alternator lug not the same place on the starter…
Ok thanks@@chriscraft77022
what kind of car do you have ;)
70 chevelle SS454 with tach and gauges
Sir. Thank you for the prompt reply. How would I e-mail you without putting my E-mail address on TH-cam ? Ted.
My install instructions for a Ford say to pull accessory wires off starter switch where main +bat connects, hook one end of amp gauge there with main +cable. Bolt all the accessory wires together with other end of amp gauge. Does this sound legit?
yes... the ford just gets a little tricky cause you have the external solenoid.. let me know what happens
I decided not to use the amp gauge. I thought it would be better for showing instantly if the alternator, voltage regulator or fan belt went out. Though I'm not so sure it would really be more visible than a volt gauge. That car reminds me of my 1st car, 1970 Monte. The grill, headlights dash looks identicle. Late 60s early 70s. Those were some good years.
..well, what if I don't have a horn relay?
Ammeters make way more sense. It tells you what your alternator is doing. A voltmeter is hard to discern crap battery / good alternator or vice versa. Pair in a modern battery you can't pop the caps and check with a hydrometer and you've killed so many simple, quick and accurate diagnostics.
if you have a lot of amp draw it would be wise to run an ammeter.. (ambulance, wrecker, etc. ) but the internally regulated alternators dont always read above 0 until you turn everything on.. i run them both on my 70 chevelle.. what vehicle or machine do you run the ammeter on?
@@chriscraft77022 Correct, they show the alternator's response to putting a charge back into a battery, whether through load or a discharged battery. Disconnect the battery and you'll see a good spike. With a quality ammeter, not a cheapie, you can discern brush wear or shorts. I'm not running an ammeter on a car, the car company's have stuck us with volt meters or worse, idiot lights. I will always run an ammeter on the boat where it's necessary to predict troubles, which are always more frequent on the salt water even with sealed alternator's, starters and wires and even on a diesel which doesn't require power to run.
How do I delete the ammeter and just have a voltmeter
some vehicles sell a new gauge updated to volt meter
@@chriscraft77022 I have a 58 apache truck. I am removing the old gauge dash cluster and putting in a new cluster with volts instead of amps. The previous owner used ez wire but had the wire running from the alternator trough the voltmeter gauge and ending in the under dash fuse box.
Do I just delete the voltmeter and run the wire directly from the Alternator to the fuse box and then just wire up the new voltmeter from anywhere?
a volt meter is run off any 12v wire ON with the key.. (radio, fuse box) and grounded anywhere.. remove both ammeter wires you don’t use them..
@@chriscraft77022 Ok thank you. So then I should not just re splice or replace the wire where the ammeter was between? Just remove them entirely? Do you think that that wire was also powering the fuse box? Or probably not?
The ammeter is its own circuit.. it is not wired to anything but the gauge..
?
That’s confusing as hell
I think that you have unnecessarily complicated the process of replacing a redundant ammeter gauge with a voltmeter gauge.
my car has a factory ammeter.. just showing people how to wire up a gauge on their car so it works
what you dont realise is peopel use all cindes of gages on porpose to change the polarity of the entinre engine on porpose to get diferent effects on the ignition system no mather if you spark inside ore out side the engine it does not mather the polarity of a ignition coil it still will fire expecialy if you mention in your video alternators and starter motors who by the way can bouth by a motor and generator at the same time and you did mention a horn relay and a buzzer that used the old cars like ford model T for exampel if wrong wired ore made some on porpose modifications you can have engine run one isues not only that you can actualy make a increase in ignition energy consuption that why peopel experiance a drop in fuel consuption because the system switching from positive to negative ground ignition system thats why those gages and selenoids are made for and their true porpose expecialy if you have dual ignition like waste spark managment you get lot diferent interesting effects ore use compresion to ignite fuel on compresion stroke and use ignition coil to fire it on exaust stroke virtualy you shuld get the similar effect like the waste spark all it need to do is to force more air on the compresion stroke and there you go expecialy if you runing a engine on cold implosion your egr system is always open so any thing that is not burn will by returned back and burn fuel again only thing that peopel didnt realise is they need a higher spark and that is achived with plasma ignition so basicaly your gasoline engine can by easely turned to a disel engine futher more a 4stroke can by turnet to a 2stroke as well thats why oil and fuel aditives were originaly meant to do as well thats their real porpose to enialete engine diferences many peopel dont know about this litel info only the old mechanics know about this that is war tehnology by the way you can have dual ignition ore dual grounding decices so the truth is you dont need big engines at all to have masive power out put a small one does the same with less fuel consuption thats where fuel vaporization tehnology comes in to play you can go lean as much as you like only if you have a strong enough ignition system to actualy ignite it GM uses that actual with HEI and on carburators selenoids and vvt selenoids to let the fuel in and to vaporise it with a curent you get increase in volumen of fuel meaning more will go in the cilinders by using less fuel just like a ordinary LPG car and gasoline is lot stronger than LPG its waste shit the truth is you can performe all day work with 3L of fuel just like the old disel generators they were used on stone cruching mines high torgue wood saws etc and you actualy culd use multipel fuel types by using a fuel mixing valves ore chambers the erly disel engines didnt have a pump the used a second mixing chamber so there you go peopel some of the good old tehnology by the way peopel all the ignition systems today are only a bade replacement for the original DC magneto that staff was solid and bulet pruff today engines are shit thats why peopel love old timers you can mode them how much you want and see amazing things