watch before you buy a GM 1 wire alternator and other INFO diode install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ย. 2024
- just an idea on the mistake so many people make when they get a new 1 wire alternator.... YOU LOSE THE CHARGING LIGHT....
just giving an idea on how to install the diode as well
I used this and your other videos to replace my alternator. Thanks so much for all of the diagrams and explanation. I redrew the diagrams as the video played. Worked as described. All voltages are as they should be after install. Thanks!
Good info and you make the point very well that with a one-wire Alt, you loose the Indicator function because you do not connect the Indicator to Field Exitation terminal(1)... but at 3:04 you say: "...the only thing you can really run with this, is just a Voltmeter..." ...is just not correct...an Ampmeter (my preference anyway) can most certainly be installed to monitor charge/discharge current. At 6:42 "kicks in" is when self-excitation starts...by not connecting (Field Exitation), it must self-exite...and it will from residual magnetism in the iron core, as you see (and there is nothing really wrong with that)...thanks for vid! Cheers BTW, nice burble while it was idling...!
sorry for late reply.. internally regulated vehicles DO NOT COME with ammeters .... that is all i meant.. you can hook an ammeter up to anything.. i have an ammeter hooked up in the car in the video... (factory ammeter)
Hey chris! Fellow Texan here. Your videos couldn't be more on point for working on my 69 Chevelle 300 Deluxe. Previous owner swapped the 6 for a 454, but in the process Jekyll'd a bit of the wiring, and for some reason had the red wire that supplies power to the cars fuse panel connected to the (+) terminal on the starter instead of the horn relay, as well as attaching the orange (blower motor) and blue wire (oil pressure switch) from the fuse block to the same pole on the starter. He also had an old style alternator with the black and blue wire, and for whatever reason he had a wire spliced from the blue wire (just before the voltage reg.) running to the ACC. spade on the fuse panel, i guess he was supplying 12volts from the "ACC. On" to the blue wire on the alt. I have since re-laid out the wiring similar as it should be per the wiring diagram which brings me to a few questions. I really like your junction block method from the smaller battery Acc. wire, which i would run power to my horn relay. Currently there is a cut fusible link hanging from the "to fuse block" terminal. (as mentioned before the previous owner ran the power to the fuse block from the starter). (Question 1) Fusible links, how many should there be in reference from the battery junction block to the fuse block at the fire wall? will just the one from the horn relay to the fuse block suffice? I plan for (2) 10ga. wires from the battery junction block "to alternator" and "to horn relay". (Question 2) I just bought a 10SI 1wire internal reg. alternator. Can the "1" pin (exciter wire) be ran from the ACC. or BATT space on the fuse panel? (As mentioned before he had spliced a wire to the blue alt wire from the ACC spade. and i am eliminating the external reg.) (Question 3) They have a wire running from BATT spade on fuse panel to the electric choke. Could i put a splice connector from that 1 wire and crimp (2) female pig tails coming out to supply 12v to the "1" wire and 12v to the electric choke when the key comes on. Just curious if I could get away with consolidating those to avoid using all three fuse panel spades. My idea would be to have 12v from IGN to DIST. and the ACC. 12v could power both the "1" wire and the electric choke, leaving the BATT spade open. Sorry for the long read, and thanks in advance for all your doing.
you need to get a 69 chevelle wiring diagram from SPEEDWAY. they are $10 wire the engine bay as a 396 big block car... YOUR 69 had a factory junction block just above the passenger headlights... 64-71... running power off the starter started in 72.... the old starter used an EXTRA R or I terminal to give 12 volts to the coil when cranking.. so are you running points or electronic ignition? #1 exciter is run to ACC or IGN( with a diode) but comes from the brown wire going through the external regulator by the driver headlights.. the wiring diagram will show all fused links.. you really need to go through my channel and watch every electrical video i have... i cover everything randomly... start by doing that and getting the wiring diagram.... make some videos if you can... there are a lot of people that can help on youtube...
Chris Craft, yes it was converted to HEI, but he was running power from the original pink (resistive wire) from the fuse block to the Dist. BATT terminal. I have replaced that wire with a 12 ga. From the IGN. Spade so it’s powered with the key on. Ok, per your answer, I was thinking by turning off the key switch it would cut power ACC. to the “1” and not need a diode, per your video, I wasn’t sure where your power source was coming from with utilizing a diode. One of your videos also shows you disconnecting the harmonica connector to the voltage reg. And connecting the brown and blue together, but wasn’t sure if the diode was already inline on the blue wire from seeing the other video. I’m guessing the diode is required regardless? Is there a diode of sorts in the external voltage reg? .. I thought all the brown wire did was provide light to the alt indicator light until the exciter signaled charging and then shut off. (one of your vids says you don’t have a indicator light, so I didn’t know if mine didn’t have one). So sounds like my pig tail idea wont work unless I used a diode between the “1” connector and the 12v splice that would also be giving power to the choke from the ACC. Spade. Does the brown wire even need to be connected at all? If i don’t, what will happen? Honestly wasn’t expecting an answer so soon, but thanks bud!
Scenario 1: wire from “1” terminal spliced to brown wire from fuse block requires gets the 12v needed for the exciter wire, but needs a diode to prevent back flow which could potentially keep car running after turning off the key. Yes or no?
Scenario 2: run wire from “1” terminal to ACC. to bypass the brown wire and when key turns off power from ACC is disabled and engine stops? Yes or no? Or does it need a diode regardless how you power it to 12v to the alt from a “key on” source.
Also, they must have removed the junction block from the pass headlight area.
Lol we're going the same route
69 LeMans
You helped a lot. I'm simplifying my wires tonight after work.
Nice job explaining it. I only learned this 10 years ago. Never knew. Following
Badass Man, video after video on these SI alternators and yours had made the most sense.
Guess Im gonna give it another shot after work.
Hey man, great videos, I like the way you explain things, nice and easy to follow.
you skills and Chevelle are awesome, I can't wait to build mine with the help of your videos
It's called 'cut-in' and that's a normal feature or problem of the one-wire alternators. The alternator needs to reach the 'cut-in' RPM in order to 'self-excite'. That's a good reason not to use them. Typically, only the street rodder crowd uses them for less underhood clutter.
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I really enjoy your videos but, sure wish you would give the info on what model and amprage alternator you were using and what and where to purchase the diode that you installed.
i dont include that because YOU need to truly learn and understand it SO you buy the right parts for your car.. do you have my exact car? let me know. once you understand it you know what to buy
Hey Chris, how bout an update on the chevelle, is it all finished up yet?
Will an ALT dash light still work with the diode installed? Thanks, great video.
Hey buddy your the best!
One question: I bought a motor running @1500 rpm isthat enough to charge the battery?
So the only things id be sacraficing is the dummy light if i went from 3 wire to 1 wire?
How did you know what disadvantages to use ? Was trying to figure out why the car stays running. It runs for about 15 to 17 seconds after shutting car off
You can turn a 3 wire into a one wire however until the RPM reaches around 650-750 it wont start charging, make sure to give it a little gasif to just idel the car once in a while to charge it
Thanks for the video Chris. What spec diode would work?
1n5408
I bought a 1970 chevy truck with a 350. The guy I nought it from put in a HEI distributor and an Internally Regulated Alternator.
The back of the alternator has a 10 gauge wire going to the battery along with a jumper wire going to one of the plugs on the alternator. The other plug on the alternator goes directly to the fuse box and has only 12 volts running through it.
All the wires that went to the External Voltage Regulator are just unplugged, not connected to anything.
The battery dies in about 2 days without starting it.
What kind of Diode did you use?
you need to watch my gm 3 wire alternator hookup video and my EASY WAY internally regulated conversion video.. i have a bunch of videos on your problem
It goes through the ignition switch like on a tractor single wire, if not connected straight to battery it is charged all the time?
Thanks for this video...question...the way you set it up...a volt gauge will still work...u said the dummy light won't and I'm fine with that but the volt meter will still work correct??
Yes, 100%
Question here. I have my battery in the trunk, positive cable is ran through interior of car under carpet and out the firewall, where it is connected to the starter. I ran the charging wire from the one wire alternator to the power post on the starter so that it connects to the battery cable. Is this OK? Also the alternator charges right around 14 volts, then it will suddenly jump into the 20s and 30s volts. What's going on here, bad regulator?
You think you can explain the inside lights and were they connect to? Im having a bit of a problem on my el camino
Upload a video on your problem
Hey chris i have messaged younbefore on a different video about my 85 C10. Right now I have the terminal wire going to the junction block and not straight to the battery so my question how is it getting its charge. I also have a few fusible links going to the junction block where one goes to the starter and then the other splits and goes to the wire harness
the one going to the starter is charging
Hello chris I have a 63 Ford falcon with a generator, I want to install a small 4 Chanel amp for a total of 4 speakers a pair of 6by 9 and a pair of 5 1/2 should I upgrade to a alternator 100 amp? By the way I was doing 70 miles and generator started to smoke was thinking also a good reason to swap to an alternator. Still was able to drive at night light on and no problem with battery draining. Thanks
no you just need a 55 amp ( normal )
I have an old boat and upgraded the alternator to 100 amp 1 wire (455 olds 7.5L). I wanted to just run a larger power cable from the alternator to the pos. battery post to double up the wires, but my mechanic said don't do it. WHY? I thought well then maybe I will just replace the entire wire but as I trace the wire it probably goes all the way to the front of the boat 1st which makes me think that there is some type of distribution Box up front. Do I have to run 6 gauge wire all the way to the front of the boat and all the way back to the battery? Am I not supposed to double the wires directly from the alternator to the battery? Because it won't have a fuse or something? So many questions... just want it to handle the load so I get the most out of it.
I have a 100 amp alternator video that shows how I did it
@@chriscraft77022 ok I'll find it thanks!!!
@@chriscraft77022 I called powermaster about the 8500 model marine alternator I purchased, and he said all you have to do is run a 6 or larger gauge wire from the one-wire post on the alternator to the positive battery terminal...and run a ground wire from the little grounding tab on the side of the alternator to the engine block and you're good to go. That's it!
Is it okay to get your ignition power from the starter relay?
Great video. I know what to do to my tractor now! Thanks!
I have a DELCO REMY 22 amp alternator on my BOBCAT SKIDSTEER (That I just bought) The Alternator has a R & F on the back of the Alternator. The Skidsteer is from the early 70s. How do I hook this up properly? It had a Black external regulator box bolted to the frame but it was not hooked up at all to the alternator. I find no where on youtube to show how to hook it back up. Can I just run a set up like this on the skidsteer even tho they are way more amps?
watch my easy conversion video.. or my gm 3 wire hook up video..
Maybe I missed it, but what size is that diode? Nice Video!
diode is rated for the circuit.. I think I got a 50v 10 amp
Hello Chris ! I want use inline dummy light so where to install it between the alternator and the diode Or between the ignition and diode ??? cheers
Watch my 3 wire alternator hook up video .. if you run the dummy light you don’t use the diode and run #1 to accessories (from IGN)
Thanks Chris for help and have a wonderful day @@chriscraft77022
What's up man hey I have a 67 mustang no wiring harness for the alternator so I jumped the number 2 to the battery and 1 not hooked up like you said and it worked for a couple months charging after a good rev but now it won't "kick on" any ideas? Thanks man
hook or jump 1 straight to the battery and see if it starts to charge first... if it doesnt repair or replace the alternator
@@chriscraft77022 Thanks man I'll go try it and let you know.
@@chriscraft77022 forgot to ask should I keep 2 hooked up to the battery? Have both 1 & 2 running to the battery. Thanks again
no, it will drain your battery.. run it off of accessories or key switch ON with a diode
@@chriscraft77022 ok thanks dude
Hey Chris, So i just bought me a 1 wire 100 amp. I am going to just go straight alternator to the battery with new 8 gauge. I know I got to cut & cap off the #1 & #2 wire from old wiring, so what do i need to do with my old power wire? Do i need to trace it back and remove it or just cap that as well?? Thank you
what year is the car and what is it? are you running an ammeter in the dash?
@@chriscraft77022 it's a 72 chevelle, I do have a volt gauge inside. I don't care about not having the charging light feature though. As i see in your video, I'm going to lose it anyway
that car has a 10g wire bolted to the starter lug going to the horn relay.. there is a 10g that came off the positive battery terminal going to that lug... did you check out my 100 amp install video.. you can melt the insulation off the wires running that 100 amp with 10awg.... well, if you are running a bunch of accessories and pulling the full amperage
@@chriscraft77022 as of what I see right now, is my power wire for my msd 6a box going to positive post and another power wire from my electric fan going to positive post, which is on a relay. So what if I use a new 8 gauge wire straight from alt to battery? & possibly remove the old 10 gauge that was going to old alternator? & yes I seen your video on the 100 amp install. Maybe i need to watch again lol thanks for the fast replies btw
there is a lot more to it when you put it on a system rated for 75 amp max!!!
... so many people throw a big alternator on and melt the insulation off the charging system...
Love all your videos keep it up
Nice job!!! which welding gun and road are you using to wild the diode ???? any link ???
it’s soldered in
@@chriscraft77022 what's Diode parts number ???you are a great man :)
Hi Chris. Thanks so much for the videos. I have a 1970 Chevy truck that has 2 factory 4 amp fuses for the amp gauge. The voltage regulator has been eliminated because previous owner install an HEI distributor and a 100 amp one wire alternator.on the drawing of your car's set up is similar to my but my horn relay in inside the cab near steering column on floor. My question is..can I use a 62-67 Chevy 2 shunt in location where your horn relay is located? Side note the chevy 2 also uses 4 amp fuses also in the wiring system for the ammeter.
I just got a gm alternator how do i tell if its a 1 2 or 3 wire ?
Will the one wire alternator overcharge the battery? I'm working on a project that has a 220 amp alternator and a single battery (does not have constant drain) and I am concerned about overcharging.
watch my 100 amp alt install video... the wiring and connections are the most important... it will not overcharge but it can cook undersized wires
Dear Chris what's the different between the ''85 OHM 5 Watt resistor'' and the Diode ? is it the same or what !! because I saw people using it instead of the Diode !!! and I already ordered diode part number 1N5408 Rectifier Diode 3A for my alternator is it the right diode ?? thank you
the diode allows only one direction.. resistor cuts the voltage down.. just use diode
@@chriscraft77022 is the diode fine with GM CS130 Alternator Case Style, 105 amp Alternator Amperage?
If you don't hook the #2 it won't trigger the alternator on a 3 wire it just won't charge
What kind of dialed is that you used on the alternator “ Please “
Good info about 1 wire alternators(purchased 1 for my 1978 Phoenix. Also noticed you have an old skool Pioneer head unit; is it the 1 with the cassette deck and remote CD controls? Brings back good memories Chris.......
Hi Chris , My Corvette 1958 has New alternator , Engine etc , seems to have the alternator connected to the ACCESORIES key position and , Drains Battery if I leave the Car on ACCESSORIES key position , is This Normal ? How is this thing working? Thank Juan
watch my 3 wire alternator hook up.. you have the wires switched on the alternator
Hi Chris Thanks a lot !!
Nice man!!! What kind of diode should i install and where can i get it?
he does resond
Another note some of them you have to distrupt for them to charge and that means a quick little rev if I just drive off normal that thing won’t charge.
yup, I learned that the hard way many years ago.. when you buy a new one it should mention that in the instructions..
So what you do when one of those wires arced off of the alternator I'm lost its was total accident I'm screwed
what on earth are you talking about? if your alternator is arcing you have a major problem…
Hay Chris great vids. I had a question how do you figure out the size circuit breaker after the junction block. Thanks.
depends on wire size, load, run of cable.. what wire are you trying to fuse.. what kind of vehicle?
Good to see you back
I’m using these Alternators as a home generator , straight off the stator I Above the rear bearing U see 3 wires coming down I’ve tested and got with my multimeter set on 750 for Ac current 1980v and I had both 1&2 wires together to the main lug on the back !
what are the specs on diode, or part number
Sounds sweet....
I have a 220 watt LActrical alternator dont know how to hook it up they say I need a hot and negative any tips
i dont even know what that is
It's a new high powered alternator
There should be a fusible link in the circuit to the battery.
not in 70.. you can fuse wherever you want.. in 70 they did have fusable links to the bulkhead connector..
Why are we going to multiple vehicles get to the one wire
Sounds good !
Hey Chris, great video!! Quick question, I want to do this in my 86 Dodge Ramcharger, which will be a similar process correct? I don't have a Gen light which means I can wire a 100a GM one wire, either of the two ways you showed right? Thanks a ton!
you only want to run 75 amps with stock wiring.... I have a 100 amp alternator video in which you need to upgrade the charging system....
@@chriscraft77022 Thanks man!!
Whats the gauge size of the white wire that you used in the video and does it matter?
small wires are 18 gauge factory size
Well thank you you done answered 👍
Thank's for the information
Thanks!!
Great video! I am installing a 1 wire alt (100 or 150 amp) in my 63 Pontiac Le Mans and I have an in-dash Alt gauge. I recall after installing the new wiring harness, that this alt gauge has to be hooked before any of the electronics will work. Is there any issue or concern running higher AMPs through this gauge? I don't want to fry it or my dash.
no, the gauge is fine ... I have a 100 amp alternator upgrade video.. upgrading the wires are the most important thing to do
@@chriscraft77022 will this wok on my 66 Pontiac with an Amp gauge?
Good information
Thanks
My mopar uses a 3 wire alternator. And well long story short, I burnt the harness to a crisp.
I got most of it repaired besides the the alternator circuit.
The alt is externally regulated and some how uses the charge light in the dash and the ignition switch to excite the alt and send juice to the battery.
I don't wanna tear back into the harness just to excite the alt.
So I looked into bypassing the circuit and apparently I need to rig in a unspecified diode, and a unspecified resistor in line to the ignition switch just to get the fucker to turn on.
That's before I can even figure out if the volt reg is still good and wired in properly...
So fuck it all, im swapping to a 1 wire alternator and never have to fuck with it again.
Not to mention the 10si-se is so damn cheap. Pocket change to replace it, unlike the 3 wire which is.$ 80+.
What sucks is I'm gonna have to fab up custom brackets to make it stay in there since the 1 wire mounts are the opposite of the 3 wire... Blah. The shit I do to look cool
watch my gm 3 wire alternator hook up video.. I have never messed with mopar but the alternators could be similar.. you don’t need a resistor you just run a diode, but if you can’t figure out how to bypass the regulator go with a 1 wire
4:30 my 1988 Chevy caprice classic oem wire is wired directly to the the battery to alternator
What type or size diode is needed
Man I just bought a “one wire” alternator. I did not hook up #2 wire. It was charging at 18 volts. I emailed the supplier and asked for a refund. Not feeling very smart right now.
they must have sold you the wrong alternator.. ( they sold you a 3 wire ) that sucks.. I have that 1 wire 100 amp for sale in the video.. I never used it other than for the video .. I need a 140 amp
Can't get mine to kick in at all even tried polarizing it. Must be bad alternator
did you jump #2 back to battery?
Dats y we use volt gauge💁💁
thank you so much
where can you get diodes
Do you need to connect the ground wire
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Hello I have a 72 GTO and my alternator is getting real hot what should I look for
what voltage are you getting? is the regulator new?
thank you
So you don't have to ground the alternator? I have a black ground wire along with the red(hot) wire that runs to my horn relay, and continues to the battery. I don't believe it's right, but that's how I bought the car.
+100 Grand you really need to get a wiring diagram off eBay for your car.. they are only $10 ... they are all a little different.. 64-71 gm a body are like mine in the video
Some of the wires or not used that’s why he is only hooking one wire straight to power to show you you don’t need the harness with all the wires
Thx u thx u can u do a 2001 honda accord 2.3lx
Thank you Christ.
Oh well that's why my battery keeps dying.
What kind of diode do I need to do that with
Just about any kind will work.. I swipe them from old TV circuit boards..