I know this is an old episode. These International v8s with the non adjustable rocker assemblies are notorious for lifter ticks, especially with reground or RV camshafts. To cure this problem i have acquired longer pushrods, about .030 to .040 longer does the trick. This pushes the lifter plunger a little deeper into the lifter body, eliminating the lifter tick.
My father in-law has a 1969 International half ton just sitting in the weeds at the farm since he took it off the road. Needs a total re-do. He said I can just have it for free if I want...so this video is great to see what I'd be in for when I do that.
That is a great deal. These things are dead simple mechanically, so anyone with some initiative and common sense can work on them. Just be prepared to wait a bit when you order parts because your local NAPA may not have what you need in stock. I can usually find what I need on RockAuto, ebay, amazon or IHPartsAmerica. I had to do a deeper search to find my front motor mount. It came from a company that primarily sells parts for concrete mixers. Go figure. Congrats and enjoy!
I have a bad clicking lifter in my IH 266 V8 right now and sounds a lot like that. Used to come and go, now its constant and louder. Good news is you only need to remove your valve covers to get to them.
I saw that video and forgot to mention it. I highly recommend the Binder Boneyard channel. He has lots of good short videos with great tips. th-cam.com/channels/CnXgKrDo4o6Gqdh7l8eVqw.html
Yep. I checked compression before I put the engine in. I actually ran it on a test stand and didn't hear the lifter noise. Probably because I was running open exhaust manifolds. I'm digging in to lifters now Looks like at least 6 are suspect.
I am by no means an expert, but just went through a round of lifter tick in my 345. Actually I'm still not done. Did you make sure all the pushrods are dead straight, and did you take the lifters apart and clean them at any point? I tried replacing mine and although the engine sounds much better, 4 of them are not rotating at all which will kill the cam. I'm cleaning and replacing the 4 lifters that came out of those holes and hoping everything will be decent after that. You can run these engines with the valve covers off at low speed without dumping too much oil - long enough anyway to look at the lifters and see if they're all rotating. Rotating pushrods are a dead giveaway, but even if some aren't rotating shine a light down the hole and try to see if the retainer clip in the lifter is moving. If it's sitting still, they aren't rotating and lifters that aren't rotating = very bad for the cam and lifter. If you find that I'd get a lifter removal tool and pull the ones that aren't rotating and see if they're excessively worn, which means the cam might also be. Sometimes also they won't rotate much at idle but revving it a little will get them moving.
The pushrods are all dead straight. I cleaned and reassembled all of the old lifters before I put them back in the engine prior to my test runs on the stand. After I put the engine in the truck and heard the lifter noise, I pulled all of the lifters out and inspected them. About 7 were squishy and not really holding solid, so I replaced the entire lot with 16 new ones using lots on assembly lube. The bad news is I still have the same lifter noise, so I'm now looking at checking the cam. That is a good idea to check for rotation and I will do that before digging in any deeper. The strange thing is that I never hear the lifters when I had the engine running in the stand. Maybe they were drowned out by the open exhaust manifolds. I'm also going to look into the clutch/transmission since those were not on the engine until it went back in the truck. Maybe something in there is actually making a noise that is fooling me into checking lifters. I don't know..... Thanks for your comment.
I put in another rear main seal and a speedi sleeve. I didn't record that work since I had already done the same repair on the front crank seal in part 1. I ran it again on the stand after I finished that repair and was able to confirm that I had no leaks. I made it through the whole summer with no leaks. My winter project is to replace all three drive shaft seals in the transfer case plus front and rear pinion seals.
@@TheToolmanTim Thank you for the reply. Does the Speedi-sleeve company sell sleeves by application or must you mic the hubs and order by size? Are speedi-sleeves available at the usual Napa auto parts store or can or must they be ordered online? FWIT I also need to replace the seals on my axles and transfer case. I look forward to those how-to videos. Lots of questions there, for example I intend to replace the companion flanges on my axles so they use the same flange yokes and u-joints as the transfer case. Do you suggest speedi-sleeves with new companion flanges? And will different companion flanges mean I need to reset the ring and pinion clearance patter or can I just remove the old companion flange and install and torque the new one? Both front and rear axles are full floating axles. I appreciate your videos. Thank you.
@@sphillips6357 I ordered my sleeve online. I used a National Redi-Sleeve part number 99372. I don't remember how I tracked down the part number. I found mine on eBay, but maybe NAPA can track one down using that part number. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, so my only answer to your other questions are to take a look at the shaft surfaces and only go with a speedi sleeve if they look significantly worn or damaged. Good luck on your project.
I bought some belts for a Humvee I found on eBay. The crazy thing is my 67 truck already had threaded anchors for the shoulder belts that I believe were factory. In fact the bolts that came with the belts were the same tread pattern. Everything bolted right in with no mods needed.
I hadn't thought about going with lighter weight oil. I'm running 15w-40 Rotella diesel oil. The lifters quieted down after running for a bit, so I'll keep an eye on them and think about trying different oil if the noise returns. Thanks for the tip.
![[UNCUT] “เชื่อมจิต” ใกล้จนมุม อนันต์ชัยเปิดตัวละครลับ เตรียมล้างบาง I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l 2 ก.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jeOwG0vt114/mqdefault.jpg)
I know this is an old episode.
These International v8s with the non adjustable rocker assemblies are notorious for lifter ticks, especially with reground or RV camshafts. To cure this problem i have acquired longer pushrods, about .030 to .040 longer does the trick. This pushes the lifter plunger a little deeper into the lifter body, eliminating the lifter tick.
That is some great information I didn't know. It might be of help to others too. Thanks!
My father in-law has a 1969 International half ton just sitting in the weeds at the farm since he took it off the road. Needs a total re-do. He said I can just have it for free if I want...so this video is great to see what I'd be in for when I do that.
That is a great deal. These things are dead simple mechanically, so anyone with some initiative and common sense can work on them. Just be prepared to wait a bit when you order parts because your local NAPA may not have what you need in stock. I can usually find what I need on RockAuto, ebay, amazon or IHPartsAmerica. I had to do a deeper search to find my front motor mount. It came from a company that primarily sells parts for concrete mixers. Go figure. Congrats and enjoy!
Wow that’s be a lot of work just a silly tip Home Depot and Harbor fright sells a box of paint filters cheap I use them a lot when recycling fluids
That is a great idea. I'm going to grab some of those for my supply cabinet next time I'm there. Thanks!
I have a bad clicking lifter in my IH 266 V8 right now and sounds a lot like that. Used to come and go, now its constant and louder. Good news is you only need to remove your valve covers to get to them.
Stay tuned for part 6. Hopefully I'll nail the problem soon.
Nice job.
Check out binder boneyard’s channel. He experienced a similar lifter issue on a rebuild. he had some good info.
I saw that video and forgot to mention it. I highly recommend the Binder Boneyard channel. He has lots of good short videos with great tips.
th-cam.com/channels/CnXgKrDo4o6Gqdh7l8eVqw.html
Looks great! Did you check compression after install and start up? Could be a sticky valve.
Yep. I checked compression before I put the engine in. I actually ran it on a test stand and didn't hear the lifter noise. Probably because I was running open exhaust manifolds. I'm digging in to lifters now Looks like at least 6 are suspect.
@@TheToolmanTim sounds fun
I am by no means an expert, but just went through a round of lifter tick in my 345. Actually I'm still not done. Did you make sure all the pushrods are dead straight, and did you take the lifters apart and clean them at any point? I tried replacing mine and although the engine sounds much better, 4 of them are not rotating at all which will kill the cam. I'm cleaning and replacing the 4 lifters that came out of those holes and hoping everything will be decent after that. You can run these engines with the valve covers off at low speed without dumping too much oil - long enough anyway to look at the lifters and see if they're all rotating. Rotating pushrods are a dead giveaway, but even if some aren't rotating shine a light down the hole and try to see if the retainer clip in the lifter is moving. If it's sitting still, they aren't rotating and lifters that aren't rotating = very bad for the cam and lifter. If you find that I'd get a lifter removal tool and pull the ones that aren't rotating and see if they're excessively worn, which means the cam might also be. Sometimes also they won't rotate much at idle but revving it a little will get them moving.
The pushrods are all dead straight. I cleaned and reassembled all of the old lifters before I put them back in the engine prior to my test runs on the stand. After I put the engine in the truck and heard the lifter noise, I pulled all of the lifters out and inspected them. About 7 were squishy and not really holding solid, so I replaced the entire lot with 16 new ones using lots on assembly lube. The bad news is I still have the same lifter noise, so I'm now looking at checking the cam. That is a good idea to check for rotation and I will do that before digging in any deeper. The strange thing is that I never hear the lifters when I had the engine running in the stand. Maybe they were drowned out by the open exhaust manifolds. I'm also going to look into the clutch/transmission since those were not on the engine until it went back in the truck. Maybe something in there is actually making a noise that is fooling me into checking lifters. I don't know..... Thanks for your comment.
hi,
I somehow missed it . . . what did you do about the leaking rear main seal on the rebuilt engine?
I put in another rear main seal and a speedi sleeve. I didn't record that work since I had already done the same repair on the front crank seal in part 1. I ran it again on the stand after I finished that repair and was able to confirm that I had no leaks. I made it through the whole summer with no leaks. My winter project is to replace all three drive shaft seals in the transfer case plus front and rear pinion seals.
@@TheToolmanTim Thank you for the reply. Does the Speedi-sleeve company sell sleeves by application or must you mic the hubs and order by size? Are speedi-sleeves available at the usual Napa auto parts store or can or must they be ordered online?
FWIT I also need to replace the seals on my axles and transfer case. I look forward to those how-to videos. Lots of questions there, for example I intend to replace the companion flanges on my axles so they use the same flange yokes and u-joints as the transfer case. Do you suggest speedi-sleeves with new companion flanges? And will different companion flanges mean I need to reset the ring and pinion clearance patter or can I just remove the old companion flange and install and torque the new one? Both front and rear axles are full floating axles.
I appreciate your videos. Thank you.
@@sphillips6357 I ordered my sleeve online. I used a National Redi-Sleeve part number 99372. I don't remember how I tracked down the part number. I found mine on eBay, but maybe NAPA can track one down using that part number. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, so my only answer to your other questions are to take a look at the shaft surfaces and only go with a speedi sleeve if they look significantly worn or damaged. Good luck on your project.
@@TheToolmanTim Thank you very much, and especially for the speedi-sleeve part number!
What did you use to retro modern seat belts?
I bought some belts for a Humvee I found on eBay. The crazy thing is my 67 truck already had threaded anchors for the shoulder belts that I believe were factory. In fact the bolts that came with the belts were the same tread pattern. Everything bolted right in with no mods needed.
assuming those are long gone?
Yep. The seats went early last summer. A local guy picked them up to go into another International pickup.
my 304 runs better after the fuel pump went out and dump a bunch of gas in the crank case .i used 10w30 no more valve noise,,,try lighter weight oil ?
I hadn't thought about going with lighter weight oil. I'm running 15w-40 Rotella diesel oil. The lifters quieted down after running for a bit, so I'll keep an eye on them and think about trying different oil if the noise returns. Thanks for the tip.
I’m Interested in your old buckets. What do you want for them?
I just sold the seats locally last week.