International 345 V8 - Part 1 Clean-up
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ย. 2020
- I freshen up my $150 International SV 345 V8 with gaskets, seals and clean-up on the cheap. This will be installed in my 67 IH pickup while I rebuild the original engine.
- ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Fun tip for the water tubes and water neck and thermo riser… after clean up and soaking in Phos… paint the INSIDES with brake caliper paint, then oven cure. You now have a ceramic lining and now immune to rust!!
That is a great idea. Especially considering how expensive replacement tubes are.
There is nothing like watching the handiwork of a craftsman. Thank you sir for taking the time to post this.
Thanks for watching. I'm a shade tree mechanic at best, but not afraid to try some things I haven't done before.
I never knew these 345's were externally balanced until I saw the harmonic ballencer
speedy sleeve....never heard of one before! glad I followed you!
I've used speedi sleeves on a bunch of different machines successfully. I learned about them the same way you did, by watching repair videos on TH-cam. Thanks for watching.
Very nice truck
Thanks! I drive it every chance I get in the spring, summer and fall.
I love these videos! Get that truck back together so I can buy it in Spring haha
This is the second time in a week someone has expressed interest in buying my truck! I'm not ready to sell yet, but I'll get in touch when that day comes. I'm just now getting time to work on this engine. I put it aside while we spent the last two years gutting and remodeling our house. Now that I have (1) time to work on it and(2) a heated shop, I will make it one of my winter projects.
I stopped over at your channel to check out the Scout videos. Those are two nice Scouts for sure.
I have a playlist on my channel with a few other videos related to my truck. th-cam.com/play/PLvL7BnybEP6DN0zdfo1WRATJAmBxGo2pK.html
Well ok Will get back to you on my findings thank you for your help
Thank you for the video.
Great stuff, hope to refresh s 266 in a '67 scout.
This helps alot.
Thanks James. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and good luck on your project.
Excellent job. Please make a video of your tair down of the other one and show what you find that came apart. Miss my 58 4x4 travelall. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I'll for sure record the tear down. I'm really curious to see where that bearing material I found in the oil pan on my original engine came from. I'm splitting my time between the truck and a woodworking project, so it may be a while before I get to tear down. Subscribe and hit the notify bell to keep up on my posts.
all you needed on that tube was jb weld
you do good work
Thanks. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, but I do appreciate the compliment.
Fantastic video, and great tutorial, now can you take use through how to build an engine running stand...
That's a good idea for an upcoming video. Building the stand was pretty simple, but I had to do a little thinking to come up with the radiator setup for the burn-in run.
@@TheToolmanTim
Please do it. You seem to be a natural at the tutorial and being able to make wet cardboard exciting...
solder an old penny over the hole, I did that on a pair of VW valve covers
Great video. I would’ve painted the block 😅
Thanks. I thought about it but decided not to paint the block and heads. I would have painted them if rebuilt those components.
I am almost finished with my 392. Im terrified about wiping a camshaft (just like everybody). I've pulled the trigger on a set of adjustable rockers from murphy's motor service to eliminate the notorious sloppy valve tick.
I was just freshening up my 345 and didn't get that deep into it. I'd have been just as nervous about a first start if I'd done a full rebuild. It sounds like you've researched everything. Good luck! I hope it goes well.
''Runs great '' To hell you say Runs Forever !
I would like to add another comment over the years a lot of mechanics have gotten in trouble because those engine's time on number 8 cylinder it is stamped in the valve covers.
That #8 timing had probably been a gotcha for many a mechanic unfamiliar with the International SV engine. I wonder if there are any other makers who time of anything but cyl 1.
@@TheToolmanTim I am not sure I was a truck mechanic for over 50 years and I don't remember if the large IH gas engine's were timed on eight or not I know I tuned up a lot of them up I worked for an International dealer in Casper WYOMING in 1974 there was still a lot of gas powered trucks at that time.
Great video! Just picked up a 77 Traveler and debating just refreshing the motor/trans for a cross country trip next year. Buddy I'm building it for wants to go full LS swap, but may be a bit overkill after just buying the truck
Thanks. I have given some thought to an LS swap too, but I'm still not there. My truck is all original and I don't think I could bring myself to make any big changes. An LS swap is a major undertaking, but the improved drivability and gas mileage is a strong motivator.
I would keep the oringinal engine and rebuild it. You may still be able to get a rebuild kit at northern auto
I am very familiar with IH those are pretty good engine's I don't think they had any inherent problems
I always thought the Internationals and Studebakers were the best looking trucks...
Ditto that!
Get a outlet wall plug in fan and use that on the radiator for proper cooling, im not shure if iH fans pull or push air though, it either pushes air into the radiator or pulls air from the radiator.
I never thought of using a separate fan, but that would work great for a stationary setup to test run an engine.
can’t wait to finish my 68 travelall
Great craftsmanship but man that’s a lot of work for a temporary engine. All that time spent would it not have been just as well to rebuild the original engine?
Yes, it was a bit of work, but I enjoyed every bit of it. As it turned out, my original engine had a broken mounting tab for the bell housing, so a rebuild on that unit is not going to happen. On the plus side, the engine I put in it runs really sweet, so it will stay there and the original will sit in the corner of the garage as a parts engine. Thanks for watching.
I appreciate your video. I'm thinking of buying a Scout ii with a 345. How difficult have parts been to find for the engine or Internationals in general? This will be my first project truck. I'm sure I'm in way over my head.
Parts can be found, but you won't be running down to your local NAPA or O'Reilly's to get too many of them off the shelf. Most parts are pretty easy to find online at Amazon, ebay or specialty sites like IHPartsAmerica.com. It takes a bit more research to determine the part numbers on some items like seals and bearings. Prices are sometimes a bit higher for an IH V8 verses for a small block Chevy since they made a gazillion of those. I have a couple good old school wrecking yards nearby where I have been able to find some of the rarer or more expensive items like a full rocker assembly. If you have the time and a few extra bucks and you don't have to depend on the Scout as your daily driver, I say go for it!
Nice video. Did you use any type of sealant on your oil pan gasket? If so, can you tell me tha name please?
I used a light coat of RTV between the gasket and the oil pan mostly to keep it in place while I installed the pan on the block. I didn't use anything between the gasket and the block. Don't forget to check the bolt holes on the pan and use a socket to punch any dimpled holes back up. Then be careful not to over tighten the bolts. Snug enough to hold things in place is good enough. I'm happy to report no leaks after two summers of driving. Good luck on your project.
Is that a home made engine stand? are there plans someplace? Great video, I appreciate your time!
Yes, it Is homemade. No plans, just a cobbled up stand from some 4x4s and angle iron. A buddy of mine lifted the engine with his boom truck and we built the stand to fit the engine while it was swinging in the air. It's pretty stout and has held up well for me. Thanks!
Thanks for this video Toolman. I sprung a small water leak on my 72 loadstar 1600 (345). The leak is at the tube (drivers side) at the pump going to the head. What size o ring do I need to replace and stop that leak on that tube? Thanks Mike
I wish I could tell you, but I don't know. I took the water tubes with me to my local hardware store and was able to find something that fit nice. It wouldn't hurt to bring along the bore measurement and a caliper to get the right thickness. You can test fit the o-ring on the tube and check the measurement right there.
Hi Tim, I'm having another issue with my 345. I have no electrical power with the key in the on position. The battery is new and registering 12 volts. I'm thinking it's a ground issue. My question for you, is there a ground strap from the engine or bell housing to the frame? My truck is a 1972 International Loadstar 1600.
I’ve found a 1965-6 International Harvester pickup 1200 with a V8 that’s been sitting for 20 years. Where are the engine size casting numbers? I have to have a young mobile mechanic look at it and determine if it’s locked up as I have MS and in a wheelchair.
Have him look on the passenger side just below the front most exhaust port. There will be a flat plate sticking out of the block below the exhaust manifold. It will have the displacement and a serial number. It will be something like V304 or V345. Don't forget to pre-oil before starting it as these engines have a reputation for messing up cam bearings if started after a long sleep without pre-oiling. Hope it works out for you.
Let me guess, good old permatex #2 on the freeze out plugs
I used Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac. I'm not sure if that is the same thing as #2, but I know it works great.
I'm here because I was looking for a video on removing and replacing the water tube. Are you able to remove the water tube without having to remove any other parts or must I loosen the water pump?
No need to loosen the water pump. You can remove the water tubes with it in place. Be prepared with a tub underneath your truck, because a lot of coolant will dump from the heads when you pull the water tubes. Check out part 5 of the video series at the 20:33 mark to see me do that with the water pump in place. th-cam.com/video/vOxc35XQU48/w-d-xo.html
Have you heard anything about resetting camshaft timing on the 1971-72 model 345 because of emissions control. I know this for a fact, that because of early emissions they retarded the valve timing and you just reset the timing gear one tooth off the mark.
I have not heard about that practice, but I'm just a shade tree mechanic. Maybe someone else watching this video can chime in if they know the answer.
Trying to use pipe solder on steel? What's wrong with brazing rod?
It was a long shot. I could have edited that first failure out, but I like to keep it real. I've never brazed anything, but have a some experience with MIG welding, so I went with what I know. It worked out great and hasn't leaked since putting everything back together.
Got a question I have a 1965 international d1100 and do I jave to jave a engine ground strap of can I just have the battery ground and alternator ground its a 304
My battery grounds directly to the engine. I added another ground from the engine to the firewall because I don't believe the engine-to-frame-to-body connection is a reliable ground for everything that grounds to the body. I'm not sure what the factory ground layout is, but this works great for me.
Any tips on removing the balancer? How do you hold the pulley to keep the crank from moving when removing and torqueing the crank bolt down?
I used a harmonic balancer puller. You can rent them for free from O'Reilly's. Pull a spark plug and stuff some rope down the hole before you try to tighten the crank bolt It will prevent the crank from spinning.
@@TheToolmanTim I've heard of that trick before. Do you worry about getting rope fibers in the cylinder? any recommendations on type of rope? i'm about to do the balancer on my 345. My pulleys are out of true and have a lot of play side to side.
@@TheToolmanTim I appreciate the reply! Any idea on crank bolt torque?
I never gave that much thought. I would look for any rope that doesn't seem to shed maybe leaning toward good quality synthetic line. @@ebifurai415
My manual says "Pulley hub to crankshaft" should be 100-110 ft/lbs@@ebifurai415
Where'd you get all those fancy caps at?
Which caps are you talking about? Hubcaps on the truck? Freeze plugs on the engine?
What sealer did you use on the core/freeze plugs...
I used Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac.
@@TheToolmanTim
I used aviation cement when I was a Ford, Lincoln, Mercury technician around core plugs, thermostat housing and intake coolant passages...
Hello what is your cylinder boar diameter like to get some more insight of what I have and what is different the parts shop clamed I have a 304 just that my engine looks the same as yours
Both engines are visually the same. From the factory service manual: The bore is the same on the 304 and 345. They differ in stroke - 3-7/32" for the 304 and 3-21/32" for the 345. The engine displacement is stamped on the right side of the block just above the fuel pump, below the exhaust manifold.
I have a 1964 International with a BD264 inline 6. I am having the hunt of a life time trying to find a new piston head as the #6 piston decided to get a little hot. Well....Catch the truck on fire hot. After the BBQ i took the motor down to the bare block and fount that the block is still in good condition. now im liiking for rings and new piston heads. Do you or anyone know where I might start looking? I live in Saskatchewan Canada
I've heard these engines were also used in some of the IH farm implements, so maybe a local Case/IH dealer may be able to track them down for you. I also found that Jensales shows some pistons and rings for the BD264, but their listed as "Call for availability" so who knows. www.jensales.com/categories/international/bd264-piston-rings-sleeve-cylinder-146534
Good luck on your search.
@@TheToolmanTim Thanks for the help!!
@@TheToolmanTim Thanks for the help!!
Where do y’all find parts?
I sourced parts from local junkyards, Rockauto, NAPA, Ebay, Amazon and a few other more obscure places online. For example, I bought the front motor mount pads from a cement mixer and plant part company. I have a parts manual, so a lot of times I started my online search using the original International part numbers. You have to enjoy the thrill of the hunt when you work on a Binder.
What paint did you use?
I used Majic Tractor, Truck and Implement spray paint (IH Red) from Tractor Supply. I have no idea if it's the same color as the original engine, but it was good enough for my eyes.
Should have used brass and brazed it!!!!
Rear main seal part number?
I used a Fel-pro BS5115.
@14:30 You put the valley pan gasket down DRY???? Really?
Go back and look again. I had a thin coat of black RTV on the block and the gasket. Both sides were coated.
Amigo tengo un motor igual pero esta dañado y acá no ay partes 😢
Sorry to hear that. We have more parts available here, but some parts are pretty limited here as well. Might be time to consider an engine swap to something more common in your area.
Om
You want to sell your spare engine? I have a loadstar project that I would like to rebuild the factory engine and put one in it to haul with until I'm done.
I'd consider it. It runs good, but has some blow-by and leaks oil pretty good from the rear main seal and the valley pan. Where are you located? Also, I know of an auto recycler who told me he has good running used 345s available.
I am also looking for a 345 for an old Clark forklift. I am in eastern/central Michigan. How about you?
@@lawrencewalraven5137 I'm in central Minnesota. I knew 345s were used in light trucks, Scouts, Loadstars, school buses and even combines, but I didn't know they were also used in forklifts.