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The stud welder was a definite win for the project. We used it on the cab, door and hood to get at some unreachable dents.

Believe it or not I just sold the tailgate to a guy who lives nearby just a couple days ago. He's working on a 61 Travelette.

I'm glad you found my videos helpful. Keep in mind though, I'm no expert, just another hack messing around in my pole barn.

Thanks! I'm glad most of the complicated parts are down low on the inside edge out of sight.

@@markrallen2 Thanks Mark! Been working hard on it with lots of help from my buddy Guy.

Thanks! You can be sure I'll handle the door glass like a new born baby after seeing your mishap.

@@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE Thanks Zane! I'm still chipping away at the body work.

Thanks! Capturing the door adjustment would have been tough. It was basically a couple amateurs going back and forth between hinge mounts for what seemed like an eternity. Glad you're enjoying the series. I'll keep plugging away through the winter and posting videos as much as I can.

Thanks! I've been at this project since January. It's like eating an elephant. I try to knock out something every few days to keep the progress going.

I appreciate the comment Zane. It's worth the extra work to do the job right. I got lucky when I put three point belts into my 67 International. It already had a threaded anchor in the door post, so all I had to do was bolt things in.

Now that is a genius idea. It would sure make adjusting the height a snap and probably something a guy could do with one hand.

@@tumbleweed_garage The gauges were budget friendly at just a little over $100 for the pair. I had the choice of black or white faces.

@@Stephen-ou4sy Thanks. The gps speedo makes for a pretty simple install.

@@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE Thanks Zane. I'm happy with the look too. I knew I needed new gauges and wanted something that didn't look too modern.

I believe a Desmond was considered a solid quality vise in its day. The advantage of an old vise is knowing the materials and construction are far better than what you find in a newer one. As with any 50+ year old tool, condition varies greatly. Mine for instance had led a hard life probably in a shop where it was used every day. The jaw alignment left a little to be desired probably due to wear and tear.

@@eliteentertainment7268 1980 530

I've already gotten a lot of use out of mine. That's great info. Thanks.

Raybuck.com. I was happy with all the panels.

Makes sense. I'll be hooking it up when I rewire the truck.

It's in rough shape, but I think I can recoup my costs and a little more. Also, it's nice to have a truck on hand that hasn't been modified as a reference as I put mine back together.

Most 50 to 54 had a full seat.

Thanks for the info. The truck I'm restoring came with a full seat and I'm thinking I'll stay with that one.

Good to know. Thanks for dropping the comment with that info. I'll have to see about the bulb. I'm converting the truck to 12V so I'm not sure the 6V bulb will work or if it does, not sure it will last more than a few seconds.

@@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE Appreciate the encouragement Zane. I'm officially done with welding on the cab. On to getting it in shape for primer and paint.

I had a few dents and one small hole to patch. I was going to give it a good scuff and get some primer on it. I was surprised when my buddy, Guy, stripped to down to bare metal. He's good at keeping me from taking too many short cuts.

I'm assuming you want dimensions for the cab mount points. 36 3/4" across front mounts, 50" across rear mounts, 47 1/2" between front and rear mounts. If you haven't seen it yet, check out my Part 3 video where I build the cart. I built the cart frame on the floor using plumb lines from each cab mount to determine the overall shape. th-cam.com/video/r5IxFVkW_-w/w-d-xo.html I added rear extensions to the cart later to protect the lower rear panel from denting when I roll the cab over on its back. If you're anywhere near central Minnesota, the cart will be up for grabs when I finish the cab work and get it back on the truck frame.

@@kjohn1626 1 - cost. Premade run $200 each side. I paid less than $50 for a 4x4 sheet of 18ga steel. 2- The premade panels don't wrap up the tunnel, so I would have had to do that work on my own. 3 - Floors get covered up. You can get away with more hackery than with the visible body panels.

@@TheToolmanTim I'm a master of hackery. Your floors turned out great, by the way.

Mine is still working great. I've mentioned this in other comments, but in case you missed it, I cut down the shaft on the handle after I posted this video. You don't need that much leverage, so a shorter crank works better on my press.

Canon ELPH110HS and SX510HS. Lately, I've abandoned the SX510HS due to poor resolution and I'm only using the ELPH110HS for welding shots. I'm using a Samsung Galaxy A15 cell phone for my most current videos. I like the resolution, color and I've been able to link up a wireless microphone for better sound quality.

Most of the video was shot using a Canon ELPH110HS. I also used a Canon SX510HS for a few segments but I don't like the resolution on that camera. All of my latest videos are shot almost entirely using a Samsung Galaxy A15 cell phone.

@@randolphhull3171Thanks. They say necessity is the mother of invention. I haven't used background music in my last few videos, but you won't hear Led or anything else like that due to copyrights.

Pretty ugly, but they will do the job.

It's good enough for what it is. I can get away with my armature body work because Willys didn't do much better from the factory.

I got the cab corner from TheJeepsterMan. They have a new supplier on that cab corner. I don't blame them though. I've never seen a reproduction body panel that didn't need some work to fit.

I'll keep that in mind for sure. I've been driving it all summer while I'm working on my latest project. It's frame off restoration on a 49 Willys pickup.

@@TheToolmanTim I saw that, cool project!

@@TheToolmanTimlet me know how I can contact you if you’re interested in talking about the truck, I’d love to find out if you would be interested in passing it along to another big IH fan like myself.

I'm glad you found it and that it was helpful. From one first timer to another, good luck!

The bead is pretty crude, but it'll do the job on my floor. Nobody was more surprised than me when that floor dropped in and actually fit. Driver side next and it will probably end up being the same amount of new steel as the passenger side.

Thanks Zane! It's cheaper and faster to keep a good assortment of odd and end steel. Turns out I just happened to hang on to the right mix for this project.

They never had doors/covers as far as I can tell. You have the lift up the seat bottom to access the storage boxes.

@@StephenStrader-f2z Thanks! It for sure stands out in a sea of 60's big three trucks you normally see out there.

@@TheToolmanTim I couldn’t have said that better myself, it’s so true.

@@clausschuster470 You're right, more bracing in between would help prevent repeat warping. That being said, the days of running this truck as a 1 ton load hauler are over.