Stroker crankshafts were available back in the 80s BUT.....the rod options are much cheaper now. Back then you had Carrillo rods or some clearance ones done in someone's garage. so the crank and rods set was like $700. That was a lot of money. you could rebuild a whole engine for less than that.
Thanks Mike, I like seeing these stroker engines built. Working on finishing my 1904 for the spring with factory F.I. Lower RPM tractor for the hills here in western Mass
my 1904 rocks. I put 9 to 1 on it so I need good gas. But it sets you back in your seat in a bus. works great. I really like the 1968 thick wall. they are really fun. The short rods or that are perfect. Or go 5.4 and shim barrels out a little use 60 head gaskets and fire everything in the head.
@@Mikefngarage I'm actually following your 1904 recipe. I'm using the AA 5.325 rods. Luckily I haven't had any fitment issues with my bearings at the tang, maybe they've addressed that issue? Because of the fuel injection I'm using a CB 2280 Cam and I'm going to run 8.5 to 1. I'll have to use good gas also, but I found that cam really likes between 8.3 to 8.5. SUPER torque and will still have power at 4500 rpm
I couldn’t agree more, 78mm crank 5.4 rods with an aluminum case. You don’t need to crazy shim the barrels, and if you go 92mm pistons with 94mm thick wall cylinders, honestly the most stable platform for fun all around use while not chewing on the motor.
Im in the middle of a very cautious 2110 build for my baja and your videos always inspire me. I picked up a disassembled motor just for its case @$300. I wasnt sure what to do with it, but more and more your convincing me to just toss a stroker crank into that but keep the stock bore. After this 2110, a simple build will be welcome! Then I'd have a nice mild back up motor for the baja!
Actually the shorter rod is better for torque and the longer rod is easier on the engine making it better for higher RPM. the VW came stock with a very mellow rod ratio. Your 74x88 will be just fine with the shorter rod.
yea stock was 1.99 rod ratio. So its almost like they were leaving room for people to modify them. 1.75 is the target for most engines. so if you go to longer stroke you can do that without too many issues. I think where the problem lies is when you go really big you need longer rods. Just need to do the rod ratio calculation to make sure it will still rev higher. this 74 is nowhere near 1.5 or anything like that. It is like 1.86 or something. a really safe high revving ratio.
I actually did. but showed that in another video. i cant remember which one. I will be doing a video on the full build when its done. So everything will be in 1 video thanks.
no B pistons in 88 only A....if you bought them a long time ago they have thin wall cylinders. would need to buy cylinders. Back in the old days you had to either open up the heads for 88s. or they were ultra thin walls. I dont think anyone has tooling for 88s set up for heads. maybe back in the early years they made a B piston 88 but they wont be thick walls.
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Stroker crankshafts were available back in the 80s BUT.....the rod options are much cheaper now. Back then you had Carrillo rods or some clearance ones done in someone's garage. so the crank and rods set was like $700. That was a lot of money. you could rebuild a whole engine for less than that.
Body metal, paint, apolstry, engine builds. Mike you got it.
Thanks Mike, I like seeing these stroker engines built. Working on finishing my 1904 for the spring with factory F.I. Lower RPM tractor for the hills here in western Mass
my 1904 rocks. I put 9 to 1 on it so I need good gas. But it sets you back in your seat in a bus. works great. I really like the 1968 thick wall. they are really fun. The short rods or that are perfect. Or go 5.4 and shim barrels out a little use 60 head gaskets and fire everything in the head.
@@Mikefngarage I'm actually following your 1904 recipe. I'm using the AA 5.325 rods. Luckily I haven't had any fitment issues with my bearings at the tang, maybe they've addressed that issue? Because of the fuel injection I'm using a CB 2280 Cam and I'm going to run 8.5 to 1. I'll have to use good gas also, but I found that cam really likes between 8.3 to 8.5. SUPER torque and will still have power at 4500 rpm
I couldn’t agree more, 78mm crank 5.4 rods with an aluminum case. You don’t need to crazy shim the barrels, and if you go 92mm pistons with 94mm thick wall cylinders, honestly the most stable platform for fun all around use while not chewing on the motor.
I even do the 5.325 rods on 78 No shims Really still about 1.75 rod ratio.
Great info Mike, I cant wait to see how it works in the bucket truck !!
Coming soon!
Im in the middle of a very cautious 2110 build for my baja and your videos always inspire me. I picked up a disassembled motor just for its case @$300. I wasnt sure what to do with it, but more and more your convincing me to just toss a stroker crank into that but keep the stock bore. After this 2110, a simple build will be welcome! Then I'd have a nice mild back up motor for the baja!
if its a 2110 94 I would build it 94 but I wont cut a mag case to 94. There were several ways to do 2110.
Awesome. Thanks for sharing.
You bet!
Actually the shorter rod is better for torque and the longer rod is easier on the engine making it better for higher RPM.
the VW came stock with a very mellow rod ratio.
Your 74x88 will be just fine with the shorter rod.
Correct. Shorter rod = snappier, torquey engine, but more demand is placed on the intake due to increased air speed but for a shorter duration.
yea stock was 1.99 rod ratio. So its almost like they were leaving room for people to modify them. 1.75 is the target for most engines. so if you go to longer stroke you can do that without too many issues. I think where the problem lies is when you go really big you need longer rods. Just need to do the rod ratio calculation to make sure it will still rev higher. this 74 is nowhere near 1.5 or anything like that. It is like 1.86 or something. a really safe high revving ratio.
Looking good 🎉 so you had to trim the piston skirts because they were designed for a 69 mm crank? What would happen if you didn’t trim them?
they hit the counterweights. Need to trim them. Easy to do. I think almost anyone can do it. .200
It would go BOOM... if the starter could even spin it haha
@@muzzcovw7674 Yes sir....I dont even think you could put it together. skirts hit the counterweights pretty hard.
Kelly Park in April
Would like to.....Still donno.
Looks great thanks for the info! With the cam you put in Mike I’m surprised you didn’t port or clean up the heads some?
I actually did. but showed that in another video. i cant remember which one. I will be doing a video on the full build when its done. So everything will be in 1 video thanks.
🙏🙏🙏
You said there are no B pistons, well I have 88s. I purchased them in 2006.
no B pistons in 88 only A....if you bought them a long time ago they have thin wall cylinders. would need to buy cylinders. Back in the old days you had to either open up the heads for 88s. or they were ultra thin walls. I dont think anyone has tooling for 88s set up for heads. maybe back in the early years they made a B piston 88 but they wont be thick walls.
I do have one question. Why does DRP cranks only offer stroker crankshafts in 78mm and bigger with Porsche journals?
smaller journals better clearance.
What are you talking about? You truly don't know what you're saying.