In the sixties on German rebuilt Volkswagen engines the oil pressure pistons were selective fit My Late father was a Volkswagen mechanic at Volkswagen dealership he always keep them the piston with that case they had trouble sticking and blowing the oil cooler apart.
I think as long as your a reasonable driver they should be fine. Revving it up all the time and causing wear maybe get a 30 to make up for the wear. Warm it up properly and start it without the coil wire when it is sitting for a while. these things all help.
I've been running this 26 for a bit now with a external oil filter. It works just fine. But on my other car it has a full flow case with an external oil filter. And that one has an old deno pump thats huge. Both seem to work fine in there applications.
Hey Mike ! on my old engine I had a Melling cast iron 34 mm dish cam pump ? negative effect it was shearing the 4 rivets ..... I guess it in the winter was hard to turn until it warmed up . positive effect was at 92,000 miles had 40 lbs oil pressure hot at idle . I still considered the engine blew ( it was knocking ) ...
I run stock springs with a high volume Melling iron pump. I run 7+ qts of oil, Derale cooler w/fan, I use the AAZ diesel oil filter (holds 1qt). All my lines are hydraulic with JIC fittings. I do not run a stock cooler! I use 10w/40 full synthetic oil. Freeway driving is 4,000rpm @ 76-77mph. '66 Bus with GRBs 1835 forged bottom end, No issues in 10k mi. Oil temp is usually 210-220 if over 90° outside
I was considering the CB maxi pump as an upgrade to my current pump. As I would like to get rid of the oil weep caused from cast iron to aluminum case.
I think the explanation is a little incorrect in the video regarding the oil control valve. When the oil temperature is cold its viscosity is higher (original monograde anyway), so when the engine is started, the oil pressure will be high. VW added this control valve to prevent the chance of blowing up the rather flimsy oil cooler when the oil is cold. In this case the valve spring is compressed, the valve is down and the majority of the oil will bypass the cooler and go straight to the bearings. When the oil heats up and becomes 'thinner', the pressure in the system reduces and the oil control valve returns to its closed state, sending all of the oil up through the cooler before oiling the main bearings.
Hey Mike, Very interesting video. Q. What about these extended sumps that seem to be popular. What issues if any do these create. ✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.
absolutely agree with that.....if you have a turbo that sucker uses some oil and needs constant pressure. Risk of over pressurizing is less important than getting oil to that turbo.
Interesting info Mike !! I had pressure problems on my 1600, I'm wondering if the pump shaft came loose like you said, soon as it gets above freezing I'll check it out. Also I was wondering if you could do a full flow with the engine together or is the only way to do it with it apart ?
@@vayabroder729 exactly. Hey have you seen how they drill the case in a different place on the side further up on the feed oil rail.....Super sick. I dont know how they do it. the pressure and the return go right inside the case. Look at that short I did of the busses by the bridge raffle giveaway engine. pause it when you see the side where I show it and zoom in.
I am using 80 line bore main bearings in my new build. I gave it a new 26mm maxi with a non dog house cooling system with a remote oil filter. Ive heard with that line bore its going to have low oil pressure. What do you think?
dont really think the line bore will effect the oiling. 80 case is fine. We used to go to 100. but the bearings are not available anymore. that setup is what I would go with.
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In the sixties on German rebuilt Volkswagen engines the oil pressure pistons were selective fit My Late father was a Volkswagen mechanic at Volkswagen dealership he always keep them the piston with that case they had trouble sticking and blowing the oil cooler apart.
Thanks Mike. Best explanation I've seen yet on the oil system. Wish I could give you 20 thumbs.
Im with you on pump size, 26mm max is all I ever run too. 👍👍👍
I think as long as your a reasonable driver they should be fine. Revving it up all the time and causing wear maybe get a 30 to make up for the wear. Warm it up properly and start it without the coil wire when it is sitting for a while. these things all help.
@@Mikefngarage that's good information for sure, that's for sharing your knowledge 👍
I've been running this 26 for a bit now with a external oil filter. It works just fine. But on my other car it has a full flow case with an external oil filter. And that one has an old deno pump thats huge. Both seem to work fine in there applications.
Hey Mike ! on my old engine I had a Melling cast iron 34 mm dish cam pump ? negative effect it was shearing the 4 rivets ..... I guess it in the winter was hard to turn until it warmed up . positive effect was at 92,000 miles had 40 lbs oil pressure hot at idle . I still considered the engine blew ( it was knocking ) ...
I run stock springs with a high volume Melling iron pump. I run 7+ qts of oil, Derale cooler w/fan, I use the AAZ diesel oil filter (holds 1qt). All my lines are hydraulic with JIC fittings. I do not run a stock cooler! I use 10w/40 full synthetic oil. Freeway driving is 4,000rpm @ 76-77mph. '66 Bus with GRBs 1835 forged bottom end, No issues in 10k mi. Oil temp is usually 210-220 if over 90° outside
Great tip!
I've dealt with that factory oversized bore/piston thing lol.
I like the CB performanced keyed maxi pumps.
I was considering the CB maxi pump as an upgrade to my current pump. As I would like to get rid of the oil weep caused from cast iron to aluminum case.
I’ve read the Setrab oil cooler is the one to get.
I think the explanation is a little incorrect in the video regarding the oil control valve. When the oil temperature is cold its viscosity is higher (original monograde anyway), so when the engine is started, the oil pressure will be high. VW added this control valve to prevent the chance of blowing up the rather flimsy oil cooler when the oil is cold. In this case the valve spring is compressed, the valve is down and the majority of the oil will bypass the cooler and go straight to the bearings. When the oil heats up and becomes 'thinner', the pressure in the system reduces and the oil control valve returns to its closed state, sending all of the oil up through the cooler before oiling the main bearings.
I'm still Available Sundays and Mondays...
Hi Mike, thanks for the videos. What size AN fittings AN -6 or AN -8?
Thanks
an8 is what I am using. I put a link in the description of the ones I use.
Hey Mike,
Very interesting video.
Q. What about these extended sumps that seem to be popular. What issues if any do these create.
✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.
Had one for years. Longer warm-up time, reduced ground clearance. That’s about the only downsides. There are many more upsides.
I build all my engines with 26mm pump but i do use a 30 mm on turbo engines . My thinking is the turbo is one more oil lost
absolutely agree with that.....if you have a turbo that sucker uses some oil and needs constant pressure. Risk of over pressurizing is less important than getting oil to that turbo.
Interesting info Mike !! I had pressure problems on my 1600, I'm wondering if the pump shaft came loose like you said, soon as it gets above freezing I'll check it out. Also I was wondering if you could do a full flow with the engine together or is the only way to do it with it apart ?
they make a full flow pump and cover that might work for you.
@@Mikefngarage thanks I'll do some research !!
CB Performance has the Maxi Full Flow In Out system; it’s a full flow without having to drill the case and it comes in 26 and 30 mm.
@@vayabroder729 exactly. Hey have you seen how they drill the case in a different place on the side further up on the feed oil rail.....Super sick. I dont know how they do it. the pressure and the return go right inside the case. Look at that short I did of the busses by the bridge raffle giveaway engine. pause it when you see the side where I show it and zoom in.
I don't know what it does!
empi....ha ha.
I am using 80 line bore main bearings in my new build. I gave it a new 26mm maxi with a non dog house cooling system with a remote oil filter. Ive heard with that line bore its going to have low oil pressure. What do you think?
dont really think the line bore will effect the oiling. 80 case is fine. We used to go to 100. but the bearings are not available anymore. that setup is what I would go with.
@@Mikefngarage thanks!
I run a mild 1776, full flowed, with the Schadek 26 👍